The human epidermis models EpiSkin, SkinEthic and EpiDerm: an evaluation of morphology and their suitability for testing phototoxicity, irritancy, corrosivity, and substance transport

Confocal Raman spectroscopy coupled with in vitro permeation testing to study the effects of formalin fixation on the skin barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is recognised as a potent tool for molecular characterisation of biological specimens. There is a growing demand for In Vitro Permeation Tests (IVPT) in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas, increasingly conducted using Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) skin models. In this study, chemical fixation of RHE in 10 % Neutral Buffered Formalin for 24 h has been examined for storing RHE samples at 4 °C for up to 21 days. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS), combined with Principal Components Analysis, revealed the molecular-level effects of fixation, notably in protein and lipid conformation within the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. IVPT by means of high-performance liquid chromatography, using caffeine as a model compound, showed minimal impact of formalin fixation on the cumulative amount, flux, and permeability coefficient after 12 h. While the biochemical architecture is altered, the function of the model as a barrier to maintain rate-limiting diffusion of active molecules within skin layers remains intact. This study opens avenues for enhanced flexibility and utility in skin model research, promising insights into mitigating the limited shelf life of RHE models by preserving performance in fixed samples for up to 21 days.

Skin-on-a-chip technologies towards clinical translation and commercialization

Skin is the largest organ of the human body which plays a critical role in thermoregulation, metabolism (e.g. synthesis of vitamin D), and protection of other organs from environmental threats, such as infections, microorganisms, ultraviolet radiation, and physical damage. Even though skin diseases are considered to be less fatal, the ubiquity of skin diseases and irritation caused by them highlights the importance of skin studies. Furthermore, skin is a promising means for transdermal drug delivery, which requires a thorough understanding of human skin structure. Current animal andin vitrotwo/three-dimensional skin models provide a platform for disease studies and drug testing, whereas they face challenges in the complete recapitulation of the dynamic and complex structure of actual skin tissue. One of the most effective methods for testing pharmaceuticals and modeling skin diseases are skin-on-a-chip (SoC) platforms. SoC technologies provide a non-invasive approach for examining 3D skin layers and artificially creating disease models in order to develop diagnostic or therapeutic methods. In addition, SoC models enable dynamic perfusion of culture medium with nutrients and facilitate the continuous removal of cellular waste to further mimic thein vivocondition. Here, the article reviews the most recent advances in the design and applications of SoC platforms for disease modeling as well as the analysis of drugs and cosmetics. By examining the contributions of different patents to the physiological relevance of skin models, the review underscores the significant shift towards more ethical and efficient alternatives to animal testing. Furthermore, it explores the market dynamics ofin vitroskin models and organ-on-a-chip platforms, discussing the impact of legislative changes and market demand on the development and adoption of these advanced research tools. This article also identifies the existing obstacles that hinder the advancement of SoC platforms, proposing directions for future improvements, particularly focusing on the journey towards clinical adoption.

Progress in Topical and Transdermal Drug Delivery Research-Focus on Nanoformulations

Skin is the largest organ and a multifunctional interface between the body and its environment. It acts as a barrier against cold, heat, injuries, infections, chemicals, radiations or other exogeneous factors, and it is also known as the mirror of the soul. The skin is involved in body temperature regulation by the storage of fat and water. It is an interesting tissue in regard to the local and transdermal application of active ingredients for prevention or treatment of pathological conditions. Topical and transdermal delivery is an emerging route of drug and cosmetic administration. It is beneficial for avoiding side effects and rapid metabolism. Many pharmaceutical, technological and cosmetic innovations have been described and patented recently in the field. In this review, the main features of skin morphology and physiology are presented and are being followed by the description of classical and novel nanoparticulate dermal and transdermal drug formulations. The biophysical aspects of the penetration of drugs and cosmetics into or across the dermal barrier and their investigation in diffusion chambers, skin-on-a-chip devices, high-throughput measuring systems or with advanced analytical techniques are also shown. The current knowledge about mathematical modeling of skin penetration and the future perspectives are briefly discussed in the end, all also involving nanoparticulated systems.

3D human foreskin model for testing topical formulations of sildenafil citrate

Sildenafil citrate is an approved drug used for the treatment of erectile dysfunction and premature ejaculation. Despite a widespread application, sildenafil citrate shows numerous adverse cardiovascular effects in high-risk patients. Local transdermal drug delivery of this drug is therefore being explored as an interesting and noninvasive alternative administration method that avoids adverse effects arised from peak plasma drug concentrations. Although human and animal skin represents the most reliable models to perform penetration studies, they involve a series of ethical issues and restrictions. For these reasons new in vitro approaches based on artificially reconstructed human skin or "human skin equivalents" are being developed as possible alternatives for transdermal testing. There is little information, however, on the efficiency of such new in vitro methods on cutaneous penetration of active ingredients. The objective of the current study was to investigate the sildenafil citrate loaded in three commercial transdermal vehicles using 3D full-thickness skin equivalent and compare the results with the permeability experiments using porcine skin. Our results demonstrated that, while the formulation plays an imperative role in an appropriate dermal uptake of sildenafil citrate, the D coefficient results obtained by using the 3D skin equivalent are comparable to those obtained by using the porcine skin when a simple drug suspension is applied (1.17 × 10-10 ± 0.92 × 10-10 cm2/s vs 3.5 × 102 ± 3.3 × 102 cm2/s), suggesting that in such case, this 3D skin model can be a valid alternative for ex-vivo skin absorption experiments.

Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

Macrocystis pyrifera Lipids Reduce Cytokine-Induced Pro-Inflammatory Signalling and Barrier Dysfunction in Human Keratinocyte Models

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic condition where epidermal barrier dysfunction and cytokine production by infiltrating immune cells exacerbate skin inflammation and damage. A total lipid extract from Macrocystis pyrifera, a brown seaweed, was previously reported to suppress inflammatory responses in monocytes. Here, treatment of human HaCaT keratinocytes with M. pyrifera lipids inhibited tumour necrosis factor (TNF)-α induced TNF receptor-associated factor 2 and monocyte chemoattractant protein (MCP)-1 protein production. HaCaT cells stimulated with TNF-α, interleukin (IL)-4, and IL-13 showed loss of claudin-1 tight junctions, but little improvement was observed following lipid pre-treatment. Three-dimensional cultures of HaCaT cells differentiated at the air-liquid interface showed increased MCP-1 production, loss of claudin-1 tight junctions, and trans-epidermal leakage with TNF-α, IL-4, and IL-13 stimulation, with all parameters reduced by lipid pre-treatment. These findings suggest that M. pyrifera lipids have anti-inflammatory and barrier-protective effects on keratinocytes, which may be beneficial for the treatment of atopic dermatitis or other skin conditions.

A Comprehensive Comparison of Tissue Processing Methods for High-Quality MALDI Imaging of Lipids in Reconstructed Human Epidermis

Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization (MALDI) mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) has become an important tool for skin analysis, as it allows the simultaneous detection and localization of diverse molecular species within a sample. The use of in vivo and ex vivo human skin models is costly and presents ethical issues; therefore, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models, which mimic the upper part of native human skin, represent a suitable alternative to investigate adverse effects of chemicals applied to the skin. However, there are few publications investigating the feasibility of using MALDI MSI on RHE models. Therefore, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of sample preparation techniques, i.e., substrate, sample thickness, washing, and matrix recrystallization, on the quality of MALDI MSI for lipids analysis of the SkinEthic RHE model. Images were generated using an atmospheric pressure MALDI source coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer with a pixel size of 5 μm. Masses detected in a defined region of interest were analyzed and annotated using the LipostarMSI platform. The results indicated that the combination of (1) coated metallic substrates, such as APTES-coated stainless-steel plates, (2) tissue sections of 6 μm thickness, and (3) aqueous washing before HCCA matrix spraying (without recrystallization), resulted in images with a significant signal intensity as well as numerous m/z values. This refined methodology using AP-MALDI coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer should improve the current sample preparation workflow to evaluate changes in skin composition after application of dermatocosmetics.

Tissue engineered skin substitutes: A comprehensive review of basic design, fabrication using 3D printing, recent advances and challenges

The multi-layered skin structure includes the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis, which forms a sophisticated tissue composed of extracellular matrix (ECM). The wound repair is a well-orchestrated process when the skin is injured. However, this natural wound repair will be ineffective for large surface area wounds. Autografts-based treatment is efficient but, additional pain and secondary healing of the patient limits its successful application. Therefore, there is a substantial need for fabricating tissue-engineered skin constructs. The development of a successful skin graft requires a fundamental understanding of the natural skin and its healing process, as well as design criteria for selecting a biopolymer and an appropriate fabrication technique. Further, the fabrication of an appropriate skin graft needs to meet physicochemical, mechanical, and biological properties equivalent to the natural skin. Advanced 3D bioprinting provides spatial control of the placement of functional components, such as biopolymers with living cells, which can satisfy the prerequisites for the preparation of an ideal skin graft. In this view, here we elaborate on the basic design requirements, constraints involved in the fabrication of skin graft and choice of ink, the probable solution by 3D bioprinting technique, as well as their latest advancements, challenges, and prospects.

Development and Prospective Applications of 3D Membranes as a Sensor for Monitoring and Inducing Tissue Regeneration

For decades, tissue regeneration has been a challenging issue in scientific modeling and human practices. Although many conventional therapies are already used to treat burns, muscle injuries, bone defects, and hair follicle injuries, there remains an urgent need for better healing effects in skin, bone, and other unique tissues. Recent advances in three-dimensional (3D) printing and real-time monitoring technologies have enabled the creation of tissue-like membranes and the provision of an appropriate microenvironment. Using tissue engineering methods incorporating 3D printing technologies and biomaterials for the extracellular matrix (ECM) containing scaffolds can be used to construct a precisely distributed artificial membrane. Moreover, advances in smart sensors have facilitated the development of tissue regeneration. Various smart sensors may monitor the recovery of the wound process in different aspects, and some may spontaneously give feedback to the wound sites by releasing biological factors. The combination of the detection of smart sensors and individualized membrane design in the healing process shows enormous potential for wound dressings. Here, we provide an overview of the advantages of 3D printing and conventional therapies in tissue engineering. We also shed light on different types of 3D printing technology, biomaterials, and sensors to describe effective methods for use in skin and other tissue regeneration, highlighting their strengths and limitations. Finally, we highlight the value of 3D bioengineered membranes in various fields, including the modeling of disease, organ-on-a-chip, and drug development.

In vitro assessment of skin irritation and corrosion properties of graphene-related materials on a 3D epidermis

The increasing use of graphene-related materials (GRMs) in many technological applications, ranging from electronics to biomedicine, needs a careful evaluation of their impact on human health. Skin contact can be considered one of the most relevant exposure routes to GRMs. Hence, this study is focused on two main adverse outcomes at the skin level, irritation and corrosion, assessed following two specific Test Guidelines (TGs) defined by the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) (439 and 431, respectively) that use an in vitro 3D reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) model. After the evaluation of their suitability to test a large panel of powdered GRMs, it was found that the latter were not irritants or corrosive. Only GRMs prepared with irritant surfactants, not sufficiently removed, reduced RhE viability at levels lower than those predicting skin irritation (≤50%, after 42 min exposure followed by 42 h recovery), but not at levels lower than those predicting corrosion (<50%, after 3 min exposure or <15% after 1 h exposure). As an additional readout, a hierarchical clustering analysis on a panel of inflammatory mediators (interleukins: IL-1α, IL-1β, IL-6, and IL-18; tumor necrosis factor-α and prostaglandin E2) released by RhE exposed to these materials supported the lack of irritant and pro-inflammatory properties. Overall, these results demonstrate that both TGs are useful in assessing GRMs for their irritant or corrosion potential, and that the tested materials did not cause these adverse effects at the skin level. Only GRMs prepared using toxic surfactants, not adequately removed, turned out to be skin irritants.

A Comprehensive Assessment of the Biocompatibility and Safety of Diamond Nanoparticles on Reconstructed Human Epidermis

Diamond nanoparticles, also known as nanodiamonds (NDs), exhibit remarkable, awe-inspiring properties that make them suitable for various applications in the field of skin care products. However, a comprehensive assessment of their compatibility with human skin, according to the irritation criteria established by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), has not yet been conducted. The purpose of this study was to evaluate if diamond nanoparticles at a concentration of 25 μg/mL, incubated with reconstituted human epidermis (EpiDermTM) for 18 h, conform to the OECD TG439 standard used to classify chemical irritants. For this purpose, a cell viability test (MTT assay), histological assessment, and analysis of pro-inflammatory cytokine expression were performed. The results indicated that NDs had no toxic effect at the tested concentration. They also did not adversely affect tissue structure and did not lead to a simultaneous increase in protein and mRNA expression of the analyzed cytokines. These results confirm the safety and biocompatibility of NDs for application in skincare products, thereby creating a wide range of possibilities to exert an impact on the advancement of contemporary cosmetology in the future.

Disease-related biomarkers as experimental endpoints in 3D skin culture models

The success of in vitro 3D models in either recapitulating the normal tissue physiology or altered physiology or disease condition depends upon the identification and/or quantification of relevant biomarkers that confirm the functionality of these models. Various skin disorders, such as psoriasis, photoaging, vitiligo, etc., and cancers like squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma, etc. have been replicated via organotypic models. The disease biomarkers expressed by such cell cultures are quantified and compared with the biomarkers expressed in cultures depicting the normal tissue physiology, to identify the most prominent variations in their expression. This may also indicate the stage or reversal of these conditions upon treatment with relevant therapeutics. This review article presents an overview of the important biomarkers that have been identified in in-vitro 3D models of skin diseases as endpoints for validating the functionality of these models.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10616-023-00574-2.

Innovative Rocuronium Bromide Topical Formulation for Targeted Skin Drug Delivery: Design, Comprehensive Characterization, In Vitro 2D/3D Human Cell Culture and Permeation

Cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma (cSCC) is the second-most common type of non-melanoma skin cancer and is linked to long-term exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. Rocuronium bromide (RocBr) is an FDA-approved drug that targets p53-related protein kinase (PRPK) that inhibits the development of UV-induced cSCC. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties and in vitro behavior of RocBr. Techniques such as thermal analysis, electron microscopy, spectroscopy and in vitro assays were used to characterize RocBr. A topical oil/water emulsion lotion formulation of RocBr was successfully developed and evaluated. The in vitro permeation behavior of RocBr from its lotion formulation was quantified with Strat-M^® synthetic biomimetic membrane and EpiDerm™ 3D human skin tissue. Significant membrane retention of RocBr drug was evident and more retention was obtained with the lotion formulation compared with the solution. This is the first systematic and comprehensive study to report these findings.

Recent Options and Techniques to Assess Improved Bioavailability: In Vitro and Ex Vivo Methods

Bioavailability assessment in the development phase of a drug product is vital to reveal the disadvantageous properties of the substance and the possible technological interventions. However, in vivo pharmacokinetic studies provide strong evidence for drug approval applications. Human and animal studies must be designed on the basis of preliminary biorelevant experiments in vitro and ex vivo. In this article, the authors have reviewed the recent methods and techniques from the last decade that are in use for assessing the bioavailability of drug molecules and the effects of technological modifications and drug delivery systems. Four main administration routes were selected: oral, transdermal, ocular, and nasal or inhalation. Three levels of methodologies were screened for each category: in vitro techniques with artificial membranes; cell culture, including monocultures and co-cultures; and finally, experiments where tissue or organ samples were used. Reproducibility, predictability, and level of acceptance by the regulatory organizations are summarized for the readers.

Multiparametric Quantitative Analysis of Photodamage to Skin Using Optical Coherence Tomography

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes 90% of photodamage to skin and long-term exposure to UV irradiation is the largest threat to skin health. To study the mechanism of UV-induced photodamage and the repair of sunburnt skin, the key problem to solve is how to non-destructively and continuously evaluate UV-induced photodamage to skin. In this study, a method to quantitatively analyze the structural and tissue optical parameters of artificial skin (AS) using optical coherence tomography (OCT) was proposed as a way to non-destructively and continuously evaluate the effect of photodamage. AS surface roughness was achieved based on the characteristic peaks of the intensity signal of the OCT images, and this was the basis for quantifying AS cuticle thickness using Dijkstra's algorithm. Local texture features within the AS were obtained through the gray-level co-occurrence matrix method. A modified depth-resolved algorithm was used to quantify the 3D scattering coefficient distribution within AS based on a single-scattering model. A multiparameter assessment of AS photodamage was carried out, and the results were compared with the MTT experiment results and H&E staining. The results of the UV photodamage experiments showed that the cuticle of the photodamaged model was thicker (56.5%) and had greater surface roughness (14.4%) compared with the normal cultured AS. The angular second moment was greater and the correlation was smaller, which was in agreement with the results of the H&E staining microscopy. The angular second moment and correlation showed a good linear relationship with the UV irradiation dose, illustrating the potential of OCT in measuring internal structural damage. The tissue scattering coefficient of AS correlated well with the MTT results, which can be used to quantify the damage to the bioactivity. The experimental results also demonstrate the anti-photodamage efficacy of the vitamin C factor. Quantitative analysis of structural and tissue optical parameters of AS by OCT enables the non-destructive and continuous detection of AS photodamage in multiple dimensions.

Skin drug delivery using lipid vesicles: A starting guideline for their development

Lipid vesicles can provide a cost-effective enhancement of skin drug absorption when vesicle production process is optimised. It is an important challenge to design the ideal vesicle, since their properties and features are related, as changes in one affect the others. Here, we review the main components, preparation and characterization methods commonly used, and the key properties that lead to highly efficient vesicles for transdermal drug delivery purposes. We stand by size, deformability degree and drug loading, as the most important vesicle features that determine the further transdermal drug absorption. The interest in this technology is increasing, as demonstrated by the exponential growth of publications on the topic. Although long-term preservation and scalability issues have limited the commercialization of lipid vesicle products, freeze-drying and modern escalation methods overcome these difficulties, thus predicting a higher use of these technologies in the market and clinical practice.

Validation study for in vitro skin irritation test using reconstructed human skin equivalents constructed by layer-by-layer cell coating technology

The aim of this study is to validate an in vitro skin irritation test (SIT) using three-dimensional reconstructed human epidermal (RhE) skin equivalents prepared by layer-by-layer (LbL) method (LbL-3D Skin) in a series of interlaboratory studies. The goal of these validation studies is to evaluate the ability of this in vitro test to reliably discriminate skin irritant from nonirritant chemicals, as defined by OECD and UN GHS. This me-too validation study is to assess the within- and between-laboratory reproducibility, as well as the predictive capacity, of the LbL-3D Skin SIT in accordance with performance standards for OECD TG 439. The developed skin model, LbL-3D Skin had a highly differentiated epidermis and dermis, similar to the validated reference methods (VRM) and native human skin. The quality parameters (cell survival in controls, tissue integrity, and barrier function) were similar to VRM and in accordance with OECD TG 439. The LbL-3D Skin SIT validation study was performed by three participating laboratories and consisted of three independent tests using 20 reference chemicals. The results obtained with the LbL-3D Skin demonstrated high within-laboratory and between-laboratory reproducibility, as well as high accuracy for use as a stand-alone assay to distinguish skin irritants from nonirritants. The predictive potency of LbL-3D Skin SIT using total 54 test chemicals were comparable to those in other RhE models in OECD TG 439. The validation study demonstrated that LbL-3D Skin has proven to be a robust and reliable method for predicting skin irritation.

Novel organic selenium source hydroxy-selenomethionine counteracts the blood-milk barrier disruption and inflammatory response of mice under heat stress

Heat stress (HS) in summer has caused huge economic losses to animal husbandry production recently. When mammary gland is exposed to high temperatures, it will cause blood-milk barrier damage. Hydroxy-selenomethionine (HMSeBA) is a new selenium source with better guarantee of animals' production performance under stress, but whether it has protective effect on heat stress-induced blood-milk damage is still unclear. We established mammary epithelial cells and mice heat stress injury models to fill this research gap, and hope to provide theoretical basis for using HMSeBA to alleviate heat stress damage mammary gland. The results showed that (1) Heat stress significantly decreases in vitro transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) and cell viability (P < 0.01), and significantly decreases clinical score, histological score, and total alveoli area of mice mammary gland tissue (P < 0.01). (2) HMSeBA significantly increases TEER and fluorescein sodium leakage of HS-induced monolayer BMECs (P < 0.01), significantly improves the milk production and total area of alveoli (P < 0.01), and reduces clinical score, histological score, mRNA expression of heat stress-related proteins, and inflammatory cytokines release of heat-stressed mice (P < 0.01). (3) HMSeBA significantly improves tight junction structure damage, and significantly up-regulated the expression of tight junction proteins (ZO-1, claudin 1, and occludin) as well as signal molecules PI3K, AKT, and mTOR (P < 0.01) in heat-stressed mammary tissue. (4) HMSeBA significantly increases glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), total antioxidant capacity (T-AOC), and superoxide dismutase release (SOD) (P < 0.01) and significantly reduce malondialdehyde (MDA) expression (P < 0.01) in heat-stressed mammary tissue. In conclusion, this study implemented heat-stressed cell and mice model and showed that HMSeBA significantly regulate antioxidant capacity, inhibited inflammation, and regulate tight junction proteins expression in blood-milk barrier via PI3K/AKT/mTOR signaling pathway, so as to alleviate mammary gland damage and ensure its structure and function integrity.

Engineered-Skin of Single Dermal Layer Containing Printed Hybrid Gelatin-Polyvinyl Alcohol Bioink via 3D-Bioprinting: In Vitro Assessment under Submerged vs. Air-Lifting Models

Three-dimensional (3D) in vitro skin models are frequently employed in cosmetic and pharmaceutical research to minimize the demand for animal testing. Hence, three-dimensional (3D) bioprinting was introduced to fabricate layer-by-layer bioink made up of cells and improve the ability to develop a rapid manufacturing process, while maintaining bio-mechanical scaffolds and microstructural properties. Briefly, gelatin-polyvinyl alcohol (GPVA) was mixed with 1.5 × 106 and 3.0 × 106 human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cell density, together with 0.1% genipin (GNP), as a crosslinking agent, using 3D-bioprinting. Then, it was cultured under submerged and air-lifting conditions. The gross appearance of the hydrogel's surface and cross-section were captured and evaluated. The biocompatibility testing of HDFs and cell-bioink interaction towards the GPVA was analyzed by using live/dead assay, cell migration activity, cell proliferation assay, cell morphology (SEM) and protein expression via immunocytochemistry. The crosslinked hydrogels significantly demonstrated optimum average pore size (100-199 μm). The GPVA crosslinked with GNP (GPVA_GNP) hydrogels with 3.0 × 106 HDFs was proven to be outstanding, compared to the other hydrogels, in biocompatibility testing to promote cellular interaction. Moreover, GPVA-GNP hydrogels, encapsulated with 3.0 × 106 HDFs under submerged cultivation, had a better outcome than air-lifting with an excellent surface cell viability rate of 96 ± 0.02%, demonstrated by 91.3 ± 4.1% positively expressed Ki67 marker at day 14 that represented active proliferative cells, an average of 503.3 ± 15.2 μm for migration distance, and maintained the HDFs' phenotypic profiles with the presence of collagen type I expression. It also presented with an absence of alpha-smooth muscle actin positive staining. In conclusion, 3.0 × 106 of hybrid GPVA hydrogel crosslinked with GNP, produced by submerged cultivation, was proven to have the excellent biocompatibility properties required to be a potential bioinks for the rapid manufacturing of 3D in vitro of a single dermal layer for future use in cosmetic, pharmaceutic and toxicologic applications.

Synthesis and In Situ Behavior of 1,4- and 2,5-(13C) Isotopomers of p-Phenylenediamine in Reconstructed Human Epidermis Using High Resolution Magic Angle Spinning NMR

p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) has been classified as a strong skin allergen, but when it comes to toxicological concerns, benzoquinone diamine (BQDI), the primary oxidation derivative of PPD, is frequently considered and was shown to covalently bind nucleophilic residues on model peptides. However, tests in solution are far from providing a reliable model, as the cutaneous metabolism of PPD is not covered. We now report the synthesis of two ¹³C substituted isotopomers of PPD, 1,4-(¹³C)p-phenylenediamine 1 and 2,5-(¹³C)p-phenylenediamine 2, and the investigation of their reactivity in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) using the high resolution magic angle spinning (HRMAS) NMR technique. RHE samples were first treated with 1 or 2 and incubated for 1 to 48 h. Compared to the control, spectra clearly showed only the signals of 1 or 2 gradually decreasing with time to disappear after 48 h of incubation. However, the culture media of RHE incubated with 1 for 1 and 24 h, respectively, showed the presence of both monoacetylated- and diacetylated-PPD as major products. Therefore, the acetylation reaction catalyzed by N-acetyltransferase (NAT) enzymes appeared to be the main process taking place in RHE. With the aim of increasing the reactivity by oxidation, 1 and 2 were treated with 0.5 equiv of H₂O₂ prior to their application to RHE and incubated for different times. Under these conditions, new peaks having close chemical shifts to those of PPD-cysteine adducts previously observed in solution were detected. Under such oxidative conditions, we were thus able to detect and quantify cysteine adducts in RHE (maximum of 0.2 nmol/mg of RHE at 8 h of incubation) while no reaction with other nucleophilic amino acid residues could be observed.

The Fate of Epidermal Tight Junctions in the stratum corneum: Their Involvement in the Regulation of Desquamation and Phenotypic Expression of Certain Skin Conditions

We evaluated the presence of tight junction (TJ) remnants in the stratum corneum (SC) of in vitro reconstructed human epidermis and human skin explants subjected or not to an aggressive topical treatment with beta-lipohydroxy salicylic acid (LSA) for 24 h. LSA-treated samples showed an increased presence of TJ remnants in the two lowermost layers of the SC, as quantified with standard electron microscopy. The topical aggression-induced overexpression of TJ-like cell–cell envelope fusions may influence SC functions: (1) directly, through an enhanced cohesion, and (2) indirectly, by impeding accessibility of peripheral corneodesmosomes to extracellular hydrolytic enzymes and, thus, slowing down desquamation. Observations of ichthyotic epidermis in peeling skin disease (PSD; corneodesmosin deficiency; two cases) and ichthyosis hypotrichosis sclerosing cholangitis syndrome (IHSC/NISCH; absence of claudin-1; two cases) also demonstrated increased persistence of TJ-like intercellular fusions in pathological SC and contributed to the interpretation of the diseases’ pathological mechanisms.

-Omics potential of in vitro skin models for radiation exposure

There is a growing need to uncover biomarkers of ionizing radiation exposure that leads to a better understanding of how exposures take place, including dose type, rate, and time since exposure. As one of the first organs to be exposed to external sources of ionizing radiation, skin is uniquely positioned in terms of model systems for radiation exposure study. The simultaneous evolution of both MS-based -omics studies, as well as in vitro 3D skin models, has created the ability to develop a far more holistic understanding of how ionizing radiation affects the many interconnected biomolecular processes that occur in human skin. However, there are a limited number of studies describing the biomolecular consequences of low-dose ionizing radiation to the skin. This review will seek to explore the current state-of-the-art technology in terms of in vitro 3D skin models, as well as track the trajectory of MS-based -omics techniques and their application to ionizing radiation research, specifically, the search for biomarkers within the low-dose range.

An advanced automation platform coupled with mass spectrometry for investigating in vitro human skin permeation of UV filters and excipients in sunscreen products

RATIONALE

Systemic absorption of UV-filtering chemicals following topical application of sunscreens may present a safety concern. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) had recommended an in vitro skin permeation test (IVPT) to evaluate the potential of this safety risk for the evaluation of sunscreens prior to clinical studies. Therefore, a sensitive and robust bioanalytical method(s) were required for IVPT studies of different topical sunscreen products.

METHODS

An analytical procedure to quantitate sunscreen UV-filtering components and excipients in IVPT samples including avobenzone, octocrylene, oxybenzone, ecamsule, methylparaben and propylparaben was developed employing a RapidFire 360 robotic sample delivery system coupled with a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer. The analytical procedure was developed and validated according to the requirements of the FDA Bioanalytical Method Validation Guidance for Industry (2018).

RESULTS

The analytical method provided a turnaround time of 12 seconds per sample and was determined to be accurate, precise, specific, and linear over the corresponding analytical ranges. The validated method was successfully applied for two IVPT studies for evaluating the skin permeation potential of UV-filtering chemicals and assisting with the selection of the sunscreen products for the clinical study conducted by the FDA.

CONCLUSIONS

This work highlights the first analytical procedure that has applied a non-chromatographic-MS/MS automation platform to an in vitro biopharmaceutics study. The analytical platform simultaneously quantitated four UV filters and two excipients in complex media to evaluate their permeation in IVPT studies. The sample throughput and analytical performance of advanced automation platforms indicate their analytical procedure has the potential to significantly advance the efficiency of IVPT studies to evaluate permeation of a wide variety of UV chemical filters and excipients for topical OTC sunscreen products.

Autoxidized citronellol: Free radicals as potential sparkles to ignite the fragrance induced skin sensitizing pathway

Citronellol, one of the most used fragrance compounds worldwide, is one ingredient of Fragrance Mix II used to assess skin allergy to fragrances in dermatitis patients. Pure citronellol is non-allergenic. Main issue is it autoxidizes when exposed to air becoming then allergenic. The increased skin sensitizing potency of air-exposed citronellol has been attributed to the hydroperoxides detected at high concentrations in the oxidation mixtures. It has been postulated that such hydroperoxides can give rise to specific antigens, although chemical mechanisms involved and the pathogenesis are far from being unraveled. Hydroperoxides are believed to react with skin proteins through mechanisms involving radical intermediates. Here, insights on the potential radicals involved in skin sensitization to citronellol hydroperoxides are given. The employed tool is a multispectroscopic approach based on (i) electron paramagnetic resonance and spin trapping, that confirmed the formation of oxygen- and carbon-radicals when exposing reconstructed human epidermis to concentrations of hydroperoxides close to those used for patch testing patients with air-oxidized citronellol; (ii) liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, that proved the reaction with amino acids such as cysteine and histidine, known to be involved in radical processes and (iii) density functional theory calculations, that gave an overview on the preferential paths for radical degradation.

Comparison Between Franz Diffusion Cell and a novel Micro-physiological System for In Vitro Penetration Assay Using Different Skin Models

In vitro diffusive models are an important tool to screen the penetration ability of active ingredients in various formulations. A reliable assessment of skin penetration enhancing properties, mechanism of action of carrier systems, and an estimation of a bioavailability are essential for transdermal delivery. Given the importance of testing the penetration kinetics of different compounds across the skin barrier, several in vitro models have been developedThe aim of this study was to compare the Franz Diffusion Cell (FDC) with a novel fluid-dynamic platform (MIVO) by evaluating penetration ability of caffeine, a widely used reference substance, and LIP1, a testing molecule having the same molecular weight but a different lipophilicity in the two diffusion chamber systems. A 0.7% caffeine or LIP1 formulation in either water or propylene glycol (PG) containing oleic acid (OA) was topically applied on the Strat-M® membrane or pig ear skin, according to the infinite-dose experimental condition (780 ul/cm²). The profile of the penetration kinetics was determined by quantify the amount of molecule absorbed at different time-points (1, 2, 4, 6, 8 hours), by means of HPLC analysis. Both diffusive systems show a similar trend for caffeine and LIP1 penetration kinetics. The Strat-M® skin model shows a lower barrier function than the pig skin biopsies, whereby the PGOA vehicle exhibits a higher penetration, enhancing the effect for both diffusive chambers and skin surrogates. Most interestingly, MIVO diffusive system better predicts the lipophilic molecules (i.e. LIP1) permeation through highly physiological fluid flows resembled below the skin models.

Replacement of animal testing by integrated approaches to testing and assessment (IATA): a call for in vivitrosi

Alternative methods to animal use in toxicology are evolving with new advanced tools and multilevel approaches, to answer from one side to 3Rs requirements, and on the other side offering relevant and valid tests for drugs and chemicals, considering also their combination in test strategies, for a proper risk assessment.

While stand-alone methods, have demonstrated to be applicable for some specific toxicological predictions with some limitations, the new strategy for the application of New Approach Methods (NAM), to solve complex toxicological endpoints is addressed by Integrated Approaches for Testing and Assessment (IATA), aka Integrated Testing Strategies (ITS) or Defined Approaches for Testing and Assessment (DA). The central challenge of evidence integration is shared with the needs of risk assessment and systematic reviews of an evidence-based Toxicology. Increasingly, machine learning (aka Artificial Intelligence, AI) lends itself to integrate diverse evidence streams.

In this article, we give an overview of the state of the art of alternative methods and IATA in toxicology for regulatory use for various hazards, outlining future orientation and perspectives. We call on leveraging the synergies of integrated approaches and evidence integration from in vivo, in vitro and in silico as true in vivitrosi.

Design, Physicochemical Characterization, and In Vitro Permeation of Innovative Resatorvid Topical Formulations for Targeted Skin Drug Delivery

Nonmelanoma skin cancers (NMSCs) are the most common malignancies worldwide and affect more than 5 million people in the United States every year. NMSC is directly linked to the excessive exposure of the skin to solar ultraviolet (UV) rays. The toll-like receptor 4 (TLR4) antagonist, resatorvid (TAK-242), is a novel prototype chemo preventive agent that suppresses the production of inflammation mediators induced by UV exposure. This study aimed to design and develop TAK-242 into topical formulations using FDA-approved excipients, including DermaBase^TM, PENcream^TM, polyethylene glycol (PEG)-400, propylene glycol (PG), carbomer gel, hyaluronic acid (HA) gel, and Pluronic^® F-127 poloxamer triblock copolymer gel for the prevention of skin cancer. The physicochemical properties of raw TAK-242, which influence the compatibility and solubility in the selected base materials, were confirmed using X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), hot-stage microscopy (HSM), Raman spectroscopy, and attenuated total reflectance Fourier-transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopic analysis. The permeation behavior of TAK-242 from the prepared formulations was determined using Strat-M^® transdermal diffusion membranes, and 3D cultured primary human-derived epidermal keratinocytes (EpiDerm^TM). Despite TAK-242′s high molecular weight and hydrophobicity, it can permeate through reconstructed human epidermis from all formulations. The findings, reported for the first time in this study, emphasize the capabilities of the topical application of TAK-242 via these multiple innovative topical drug delivery formulation platforms.

Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin

OBJECTIVE

The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High Frequency Ultrasonication Technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilisation of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients such as Emulsifying Surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesised by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions.

METHODS

The pH, particle size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared.

RESULTS

The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average particle size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20 to 30% only.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.

Evaluation of Two Novel Hydantoin Derivatives Using Reconstructed Human Skin Model EpiskinTM: Perspectives for Application as Potential Sunscreen Agents

This study aimed to assess two novel 5-arylideneimidazolidine-2,4-dione (hydantoin) derivatives (JH3 and JH10) demonstrating photoprotective activity using the reconstructed human skin model Episkin^TM. The skin permeability, irritation, and phototoxicity of the compounds was evaluated in vitro. Moreover, the in vitro genotoxicity and human metabolism of both compounds was studied. For skin permeation and irritation experiments, the test compounds were incorporated into a formulation. It was shown that JH3 and JH10 display no skin irritation and no phototoxicity. Both compounds did not markedly enhance the frequency of micronuclei in CHO-K1 cells in the micronucleus assay. Preliminary in vitro studies with liver microsomes demonstrated that hydrolysis appears to constitute their important metabolic pathway. Episkin^TM permeability experiments showed that JH3 permeability was lower than or close to currently used UV filters, whereas JH10 had the potential to permeate the skin. Therefore, a restriction of this compound permeability should be obtained by choosing the right vehicle or by optimizing it, which should be addressed in future studies.

Aqueous suspensions of Fuller's earth potentiate the adsorption capacities of paraoxon and improve skin decontamination properties

Fuller's earth (FE) is a phyllosilicate used as a powder for household or skin decontamination due to its adsorbent properties. Recent studies have shown that water suspensions exhibit similar adsorbent capacities. FE is heterogeneous due to its composition of elementary clay aggregates and heavy metal particles. Here, FE toxicity was assessed in vitro on skin cells and in vivo on Danio rerio embryos. Among the suspensions tested (5%, 9.1% and 15% w/w), only the highest one shows weak toxicity. Suspensions were tested for ex vivo dermal decontamination into pig ear skin and human abdominal skin using diffusion cells and paraoxon as organophosphorus contaminant. After 24 h of diffusion, no difference was observed in the paraoxon concentration in the receptor compartment whether the decontamination was carried out with FE in powder or in suspension form. In presence of FE suspensions, we observed the disappearance of paraoxon from the stratum corneum, the reservoir compartment, independently of the suspensions' concentration. We suggest that water potentiates the absorbing capacities of FE powder by intercalating between clay lamellas leading to the appearance of new adsorption zones and swelling. These data support the use of FE aqueous suspensions as a safe tool for organophosphorus skin decontamination.

Three-Dimensional Skin Tissue Printing with Human Skin Cell Lines and Mouse Skin-Derived Epidermal and Dermal Cells

Since the skin covers most surfaces of the body, it is susceptible to damage, which can be fatal depending on the degree of injury to the skin because it defends against external attack and protects internal structures. Various types of artificial skin are being studied for transplantation to repair damaged skin, and recently, the production of replaceable skin using three-dimensional (3D) bioprinting technology has also been investigated. In this study, skin tissue was produced using a 3D bioprinter with human skin cell lines and cells extracted from mouse skin, and the printing conditions were optimized. Gelatin was used as a bioink, and fibrinogen and alginate were used for tissue hardening after printing. Printed skin tissue maintained a survival rate of 90% or more when cultured for 14 days. Culture conditions were established using 8 mM calcium chloride treatment and the skin tissue was exposed to air to optimize epidermal cell differentiation. The skin tissue was cultured for 14 days after differentiation induction by this optimized culture method, and immunofluorescent staining was performed using epidermal cell differentiation markers to investigate whether the epidermal cells had differentiated. After differentiation, loricrin, which is normally found in terminally differentiated epidermal cells, was observed in the cells at the tip of the epidermal layer, and cytokeratin 14 was expressed in the lower cells of the epidermis layer. Collectively, this study may provide optimized conditions for bioprinting and keratinization for three-dimensional skin production.

A review of alternative methods to the use of animals in safety evaluation of cosmetics

Alternative methods to the use of animals in research have been a global trend, mainly after the publication of the 3R’s principle (Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement), proposed by Russel and Burch. In the cosmetic sector, safety and efficacy assessments using animals have generated controversial debates. For this reason, in vitro research techniques are widely used to assess acute toxicity; corrosivity and irritation; skin sensitization; dermal and percutaneous absorption; repeated dose toxicity; reproductive toxicity; mutagenicity and genotoxicity; carcinogenicity; toxicokinetic studies; photo-induced toxicity; and human data. Although there are many methodologies described, validated, and widely used in the cosmetic area, the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products is still an expanding field. It needs global collaboration among regulatory agencies, universities, and industry, to meet several unmet needs in the fields of sensitization, carcinogenicity, systemic action, among other issues involving safety of users of cosmetic products. This review article will cover the currently most relevant in vitro models regarding irritation, corrosion, sensitization, mutagenicity, genotoxicity, and phototoxicity, to help to choose the most appropriate test for evaluating the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and products.

Hybrid skin chips for toxicological evaluation of chemical drugs and cosmetic compounds

Development of drugs and cosmetics for topical application require safety tests in skin models. However, current skin models, such as skin cell sheets and artificial tissue-engineered skin, do not allow sophisticated toxicological evaluations (e.g., sensory irritation, hepatotoxicity). Animal models are prohibited worldwide for testing cosmetics. Therefore, reliable human skin models that recapitulate physiological events in skin tissue need to be established under in vitro settings. In this study, hybrid human skin models that enable delicate toxicological evaluations of drugs and cosmetic compounds are demonstrated. To recapitulate skin cornification, keratinocytes in the top layer of a vertical microfluidic chip were cultured at the air-liquid interface. For the skin-nerve hybrid model, differentiated neural stem cells in 3D collagen were positioned adjacent to and right below the skin layer. This model enables real-time quantitative skin sensitization analysis following chemical treatments by detecting alterations in neuronal activity in combination with a calcium imaging technique. For the skin-liver model, hepatic cells derived from pluripotent stem cells were cultured in 3D collagen distant from the skin layer. Potential hepatotoxicity of cutaneously applied chemicals in this model can be evaluated by quantification of glutathione and reactive oxygen species. Our study suggests that 3D hybrid skin chips would provide useful human skin models in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Electron paramagnetic resonance and spin trapping to detect free radicals from allergenic hydroperoxides in contact with the skin: from the molecule to the tissue

A major research topic consists of revealing the contribution of radical-mediated reactions in dermatological diseases related to xenobiotic-induced stress, to succeed risk assessment procedures protecting producers and consumers. Allergic contact dermatitis is the clinically relevant consequence of skin sensitization, one of the most critical occupational and environmental health issues related to xenobiotics exposure. The first key event identified for the skin sensitization process to a chemical is its aptitude to react with epidermal proteins and form antigenic structures that will further trigger the immune response. Many chemical sensitizers are suspected to react through mechanisms involving radical intermediates. This review focuses on recent progress we have accomplished over the last few years studying radical intermediates derived from skin sensitizing chemicals by electron paramagnetic resonance in combination with the spin trapping technique. Our work is carried out "from the molecule", performing studies in solution, "to the tissue", by the development of a methodology on a reconstructed human epidermis model, very close in terms of histology and metabolic/enzymatic activity to real human epidermis, that can be used as suitable biological tissue model. The benefits are to test chemicals under conditions close to human use and real-life sensitization exposures and benefit from the 3D microenvironment. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

The role of biofilm formation in the pathogenesis and antimicrobial susceptibility of Cutibacterium acnes

Cutibacterium acnes (previously known as Propionibacterium acnes) is frequently found on lipid-rich parts of the human skin. While C. acnes is most known for its role in the development and progression of the skin disease acne, it is also involved in many other types of infections, often involving implanted medical devices. C. acnes readily forms biofilms in vitro and there is growing evidence that biofilm formation by this Gram-positive, facultative anaerobic micro-organism plays an important role in vivo and is also involved in treatment failure. In this brief review we present an overview on what is known about C. acnes biofilms (including their role in pathogenesis and reduced susceptibility to antibiotics), discuss model systems that can be used to study these biofilms in vitro and in vivo and give an overview of interspecies interactions occurring in polymicrobial communities containing C. acnes.

Skin-on-a-Chip Technology for Testing Transdermal Drug Delivery-Starting Points and Recent Developments

During the last decades, several technologies were developed for testing drug delivery through the dermal barrier. Investigation of drug penetration across the skin can be important in topical pharmaceutical formulations and also in cosmeto-science. The state-of- the-art in the field of skin diffusion measurements, different devices, and diffusion platforms used, are summarized in the introductory part of this review. Then the methodologies applied at Pázmány Péter Catholic University are shown in detail. The main testing platforms (Franz diffusion cells, skin-on-a-chip devices) and the major scientific projects (P-glycoprotein interaction in the skin; new skin equivalents for diffusion purposes) are also presented in one section. The main achievements of our research are briefly summarized: (1) new skin-on-a-chip microfluidic devices were validated as tools for drug penetration studies for the skin; (2) P-glycoprotein transport has an absorptive orientation in the skin; (3) skin samples cannot be used for transporter interaction studies after freezing and thawing; (4) penetration of hydrophilic model drugs is lower in aged than in young skin; (5) mechanical sensitization is needed for excised rodent and pig skins for drug absorption measurements. Our validated skin-on-a-chip platform is available for other research groups to use for testing and for utilizing it for different purposes.

R-Phycoerythrin from Colaconema formosanum (Rhodophyta), an Anti-Allergic and Collagen Promoting Material for Cosmeceuticals

R-phycoerythrin (R-PE), a pigment complex found in red algae, was extracted and purified from a newly identified red alga, Colaconema formosanum, and its bioactivities were examined. It was revealed that R-PE treatment resulted in high cell viability (>70%) to the mammalian cell lines NIH-3T3, RBL-2H3, RAW264.7, and Hs68, and had no effect on cell morphology in NIH-3T3 cells. Its suppression effect was insignificant on the production of IL-6 and TNF-α in lipopolysaccharides-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. However, calcium ionophore A23187-induced β-hexosaminidase release was effectively inhibited in a dose-dependent manner in RBL-2H3 cells. Additionally, it was revealed to be non-irritating to bionic epidermal tissues. Notably, procollagen production was promoted in Hs68 cells. Overall, the data revealed that R-PE purified from C. formosanum exhibits anti-allergic and anti-aging bioactivities with no observed consequential toxicity on multiple mammalian cell lines as well as epidermal tissues, suggesting that this macromolecule is a novel material for potential cosmetic use.

Human Skin Permeation Enhancement Using PLGA Nanoparticles Is Mediated by Local pH Changes

The steady improvement and optimization of transdermal permeation is a constant and challenging pharmaceutical task. In this study the influence of poly(lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) nanoparticles on the dermal permeation of the anti-inflammatory drug flufenamic acid (FFA) was investigated. For this aim, different vehicles under non-buffered and buffered conditions and different skin models (human heat separated epidermis and reconstructed human epidermis equivalents) were tested. Permeation experiments were performed using static Franz diffusion cells under infinite dosing conditions. Already the presence of drug-free nanoparticles increased drug permeation across the skin. Drug permeation was even enhanced when applying drug-loaded nanoparticles. In contrast, buffered vehicles with different pH values (pH 5.4–7.4) revealed the influence of the pH on the permeation of FFA. The change of the surrounding pH of the biodegradable nanoparticulate system was demonstrated and visualized using pH-sensitive fluorescent probes. While a potential contribution of hair follicles could be ruled out, our data suggest that the enhanced permeation of FFA through human skin in the presence of PLGA nanoparticles is mediated by a locally decreased pH during hydrolytic degradation of this polymer. This hypothesis is supported by the observation that skin permeation of the weak base caffeine was not affected.

Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Anti-Aging Potential of a Kalmia angustifolia Extract and Identification of Some Major Compounds

Skin aging is the most visible element of the aging process, giving rise to a major concern for many people. Plants from the Ericaceae family generally have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making them potential anti-aging active ingredients. This study aimed to evaluate the safety and anti-aging efficacy of a Kalmia angustifolia extract using reconstructed skin substitutes. The safety evaluation was performed using a 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazolyl-2)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay, while the efficacy was determined by assessing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity and analyzing skin substitutes reconstructed according to the self-assembly method by histology and immunofluorescence staining (elastin, collagen-1, collagen-3, aquaporin-3). The cell viability assay established the safety of the extract at a concentration up to 200 μg/mL. The Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) assay and a cell-based assay using 2',7'-dichlorofluorescein-diacetate (DCFH-DA) revealed a strong antioxidant activity with an ORAC value of 16 µmol Trolox Equivalent/mg and a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 0.37 ± 0.02 μg/mL, while an interesting anti-inflammatory activity was found in the inhibition of NO production, with an inhibition percentage of NO production of 49 ± 2% at 80 µg/mL. The isolation and characterization of the extract allowed the identification of compounds that could be responsible for these biological activities, with two of them being identified for the first time in K. angustifolia: avicularin and epicatechin-(2β-O-7, 4β-6)-ent-epicatechin. Histological analyses of skin substitutes treated with the extract showed an increase in dermal thickness compared with the controls. K. angustifolia extract enhanced the expression of elastin and collagen-1, which are usually decreased with skin aging. These results suggest that K. angustifolia has promising antioxidant efficacy and anti-aging potential.

Organoids for toxicology and genetic toxicology: applications with drugs and prospects for environmental carcinogenesis

Advances in three-dimensional (3D) cell culture technology have led to the development of more biologically and physiologically relevant models to study organ development, disease, toxicology and drug screening. Organoids have been derived from many mammalian tissues, both normal and tumour, from adult stem cells and from pluripotent stem cells. Tissue organoids can retain many of the cell types and much of the structure and function of the organ of origin. Organoids derived from pluripotent stem cells display increased complexity compared with organoids derived from adult stem cells. It has been shown that organoids express many functional xenobiotic-metabolising enzymes including cytochrome P450s (CYPs). This has benefitted the drug development field in facilitating pre-clinical testing of more personalised treatments and in developing large toxicity and efficacy screens for a range of compounds. In the field of environmental and genetic toxicology, treatment of organoids with various compounds has generated responses that are close to those obtained in primary tissues and in vivo models, demonstrating the biological relevance of these in vitro multicellular 3D systems. Toxicological investigations of compounds in different tissue organoids have produced promising results indicating that organoids will refine future studies on the effects of environmental exposures and carcinogenic risk to humans. With further development and standardised procedures, advancing our understanding on the metabolic capabilities of organoids will help to validate their use to investigate the modes of action of environmental carcinogens.

Validation study of a new reconstructed human epidermis model EPiTRI for in vitro skin irritation test according to OECD guidelines

Following the global trend of reducing animal testing, various reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models for skin irritation test (SIT) have been developed, verified, validated and included in OECD TG 439. We developed a new RHE called EPiTRI and a SIT method using EPiTRI (EPiTRI-SIT model) following the OECD guidelines. EPiTRI possesses morphological, biochemical and physiological properties similar to human epidermis with well-differentiated multilayered viable cells with barrier function. The EPiTRI-SIT model was tested for 20 reference chemicals in Performance Standard of OECD TG 439 (GD 220), showing good predictive capacity with 100% sensitivity, 70% specificity and 85% accuracy. EPiTRI had sensitivity in detecting di-n-propyl disulphate, as an irritant chemical (UN GHS Category 2), whereas most validated reference methods detected it as a non-irritant. An international validation study of EPiTRI-SIT was conducted in four laboratories to confirm the within- and between-laboratory reproducibility, as well as predictive capacity. The phase I/II within-laboratory and between-laboratory reproducibility was 100%/95% and 95%, respectively. The overall sensitivity, specificity and accuracy of EPiTRI-SIT was 96%, 70% and 83%, respectively, which fulfilled the OECD criteria. Thus, EPiTRI, meets the criteria of Performance Standards of OECD TG 439 (GD 220) and is suitable for screening irritating chemicals in vitro.

Multitargeted Approach for the Optimization of Morphogenesis and Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

In vitro skin tissue engineering is challenging due to the manifold differences between the in vivo and in vitro conditions. Yet, three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalents (HSEs) are able to mimic native human skin in many fundamental aspects. However, the epidermal lipid barrier formation, which is essential for the functionality of the skin barrier, remains compromised. Recently, HSEs with an improved lipid barrier formation were generated by (i) incorporating chitosan in the dermal collagen matrix, (ii) reducing the external oxygen level to 3%, and (iii) inhibiting the liver X receptor (LXR). In this study, we aimed to determine the synergic effects in full-thickness models (FTMs) with combinations of these factors as single-, double-, and triple-targeted optimization approaches. The collagen–chitosan FTM supplemented with the LXR inhibitor showed improved epidermal morphogenesis, an enhanced lipid composition, and a better lipid organization. Importantly, barrier functionality was improved in the corresponding approach. In conclusion, our leading optimization approach substantially improved the epidermal morphogenesis, barrier formation, and functionality in the FTM, which therefore better resembled native human skin.

Nano- and Micro-Porous Chitosan Membranes for Human Epidermal Stratification and Differentiation

The creation of partial or complete human epidermis represents a critical aspect and the major challenge of skin tissue engineering. This work was aimed at investigating the effect of nano- and micro-structured CHT membranes on human keratinocyte stratification and differentiation. To this end, nanoporous and microporous membranes of chitosan (CHT) were prepared by phase inversion technique tailoring the operational parameters in order to obtain nano- and micro-structured flat membranes with specific surface properties. Microporous structures with different mean pore diameters were created by adding and dissolving, in the polymeric solution, polyethylene glycol (PEG Mw 10,000 Da) as porogen, with a different CHT/PEG ratio. The developed membranes were characterized and assessed for epidermal construction by culturing human keratinocytes on them for up to 21 days. The overall results demonstrated that the membrane surface properties strongly affect the stratification and terminal differentiation of human keratinocytes. In particular, human keratinocytes adhered on nanoporous CHT membranes, developing the structure of the corneum epidermal top layer, characterized by low thickness and low cell proliferation. On the microporous CHT membrane, keratinocytes formed an epidermal basal lamina, with high proliferating cells that stratified and differentiated over time, migrating along the z axis and forming a multilayered epidermis. This strategy represents an attractive tissue engineering approach for the creation of specific human epidermal strata for testing the effects and toxicity of drugs, cosmetics and pollutants.

Progress on Reconstructed Human Skin Models for Allergy Research and Identifying Contact Sensitizers

Contact with the skin is inevitable or desirable for daily life products such as cosmetics, hair dyes, perfumes, drugs, household products, and industrial and agricultural products. Whereas the majority of these products are harmless, a number can become metabolized and/or activate the immunological defense via innate and adaptive mechanisms resulting in sensitization and allergic contact dermatitis upon following exposures to the same substance. Therefore, strict safety (hazard) assessment of actives and ingredients in products and drugs applied to the skin is essential to determine I) whether the chemical is a potential sensitizer and if so II) what is the safe concentration for human exposure to prevent sensitization from occurring. Ex vivo skin is a valuable model for skin penetration studies but due to logistical and viability limitations the development of in vitro alternatives is required. The aim of this review is to give a clear overview of the organotypic in vitro skin models (reconstructed human epidermis, reconstructed human skin, immune competent skin models incorporating Langerhans Cells and T-cells, skin-on-chip) that are currently commercially available or which are being used in a laboratory research setting for hazard assessment of potential sensitizers and for investigating the mechanisms (sensitization key events 1-4) related to allergic contact dermatitis. The limitations of the models, their current applications, and their future potential in replacing animals in allergy-related science are discussed.

In silico Prediction of Skin Sensitization: Quo vadis?

Skin direct contact with chemical or physical substances is predisposed to allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), producing various allergic reactions, namely rash, blister, or itchy, in the contacted skin area. ACD can be triggered by various extremely complicated adverse outcome pathways (AOPs) remains to be causal for biosafety warrant. As such, commercial products such as ointments or cosmetics can fulfill the topically safe requirements in animal and non-animal models including allergy. Europe, nevertheless, has banned animal tests for the safety evaluations of cosmetic ingredients since 2013, followed by other countries. A variety of non-animal in vitro tests addressing different key events of the AOP, the direct peptide reactivity assay (DPRA), KeratinoSens™, LuSens and human cell line activation test h-CLAT and U-SENS™ have been developed and were adopted in OECD test guideline to identify the skin sensitizers. Other methods, such as the SENS-IS are not yet fully validated and regulatorily accepted. A broad spectrum of in silico models, alternatively, to predict skin sensitization have emerged based on various animal and non-animal data using assorted modeling schemes. In this article, we extensively summarize a number of skin sensitization predictive models that can be used in the biopharmaceutics and cosmeceuticals industries as well as their future perspectives, and the underlined challenges are also discussed.