Confocal Raman spectroscopy at different laser wavelengths in analyzing stratum corneum and skin penetration properties of mixed PEGylated emulsifier systems

Methods for skin image analysis and their applications in dermatology and cosmetic research: a comprehensive review

INTRODUCTION

In recent years, several non-invasive imaging methods have been introduced to facilitate studies in dermatology and cosmetic research, almost completely replacing invasive methods such as biopsy. Imaging devices have proven to be useful tools in skin analysis and therapy monitoring. This review aimed to investigate the most recent studies in cosmetic dermatology the imaging technology and methods that are being used to assess skin characteristics and summarize its fundamentals, possible applications, advantages, and limitations, and to give a future perspective to the clinical trials.

EVIDENCE ACQUISITION

For that, a literature review was carried out in the main scientific database platforms and the studies associating skin image analysis with dermatology and cosmetic research were selected and discussed.

EVIDENCE SYNTHESIS

It was possible to infer that skin image analyses are not only practical and effective, but have also become increasingly essential for the skin sciences. The in vivo and real-time image analyses allow a more complete evaluation and the follow-up of the same region for different periods. It was also possible to observe that macroscopic, microscopic, and mesoscopic imaging methods are complementary, allowing different approaches in the same study.

CONCLUSIONS

These technologies are expected to evolve more and more quickly in the near future.

Optical Methods for Non-Invasive Determination of Skin Penetration: Current Trends, Advances, Possibilities, Prospects, and Translation into In Vivo Human Studies

Information on the penetration depth, pathways, metabolization, storage of vehicles, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), and functional cosmetic ingredients (FCIs) of topically applied formulations or contaminants (substances) in skin is of great importance for understanding their interaction with skin targets, treatment efficacy, and risk assessment-a challenging task in dermatology, cosmetology, and pharmacy. Non-invasive methods for the qualitative and quantitative visualization of substances in skin in vivo are favored and limited to optical imaging and spectroscopic methods such as fluorescence/reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM); two-photon tomography (2PT) combined with autofluorescence (2PT-AF), fluorescence lifetime imaging (2PT-FLIM), second-harmonic generation (SHG), coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), and reflectance confocal microscopy (2PT-RCM); three-photon tomography (3PT); confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM); surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) micro-spectroscopy; stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy; and optical coherence tomography (OCT). This review summarizes the state of the art in the use of the CLSM, 2PT, 3PT, CRM, SERS, SRS, and OCT optical methods to study skin penetration in vivo non-invasively (302 references). The advantages, limitations, possibilities, and prospects of the reviewed optical methods are comprehensively discussed. The ex vivo studies discussed are potentially translatable into in vivo measurements. The requirements for the optical properties of substances to determine their penetration into skin by certain methods are highlighted.

Rational Design of Topical Semi-Solid Dosage Forms-How Far Are We?

Specific aspects of semi-solid dosage forms for topical application include the nature of the barrier to be overcome, aspects of susceptibility to physical and chemical instability, and a greater influence of sensory perception. Advances in understanding the driving forces of skin penetration as well as the design principles and inner structure of formulations, provide a good basis for the more rational design of such dosage forms, which still often follow more traditional design approaches. This review analyses the opportunities and constraints of rational formulation design approaches in the industrial development of new topical drugs. As the selection of drug candidates with favorable physicochemical properties increases the speed and probability of success, models for drug selection based on theoretical and experimental approaches are discussed. This paper reviews how progress in the scientific understanding of mechanisms and vehicle-influence of skin penetration can be used for rational formulation design. The characterization of semi-solid formulations is discussed with a special focus on modern rheological approaches and analytical methods for investigating and optimizing the chemical stability of active ingredients in consideration of applicable guidelines. In conclusion, the combination of a good understanding of scientific principles combined with early consideration of regulatory requirements for product quality are enablers for the successful development of innovative and robust semi-solid formulations for topical application.

Systematic investigation of factors, such as the impact of emulsifiers, which influence the measurement of skin barrier integrity by in-vitro trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)

Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) has been the most widely used method to assess the integrity of the skin barrier and evaluate the irritation potential or the protective properties of topical products for many years. It detects the amount of water that diffuses across the stratum corneum (SC) to the external environment. As one of the most important functions of the skin is to keep water inside the body, an increase in TEWL is used to indicate the skin's impaired barrier function. So far, a variety of commercial instruments are available to measure the TEWL. Their applications mainly focus on the in-vivo TEWL measurements for dermatological examinations or formulation development. Recently, an in-vitro TEWL probe has also been commercially released enabling preliminary tests with excised skin samples. In our study, we first aimed to optimize the experimental procedures for detecting the in-vitro TEWL of porcine skin. Secondly, different kinds of emulsifiers were applied to the skin, including polyethylene glycol-containing emulsifiers (PEG-ylated emulsifiers), sorbitan esters, cholesterol, and lecithin. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) was used as a positive control, and water as a negative control. Based on the findings, we established a protocol for accurately measuring the in-vitro TEWL values, emphasizing that the temperature of the skin sample should be constantly maintained at 32℃. Subsequently, the influences of emulsifiers on the in-vitro TEWL were analyzed. They indicated a significant skin barrier impairment of PEG-20 cetyl ether, PEG-20 stearyl ether, and SLS on in-vitro skin. Furthermore, we interestingly found that there consistently was an alteration of the TEWL values, even after the application of water to the skin. Our findings are of special interest, as the European Medicines Agency (EMA) recommends the use of in-vitro TEWL to determine skin barrier intactness during Franz cell experiments. Thus, this study provides a validated protocol for measuring the in-vitro TEWL and elucidates the impact of emulsifiers on the skin barrier. It also improves the understanding of tolerable variations of in-vitro TEWL and offers recommendations for its use in research.

Simultaneous Dual-Wavelength Source Raman Spectroscopy with a Handheld Confocal Probe for Analysis of the Chemical Composition of In Vivo Human Skin

Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) is a powerful tool that has been widely used for biological tissue analysis because of its noninvasive nature, high specificity, and rich biochemical information. However, current commercial CRS systems suffer from limited detection regions (450-1750 cm-1), bulky sizes, nonflexibilities, slow acquisitions by consecutive excitations, and high costs if using a Fourier transform (FT) Raman spectroscopy with an InGaAs detector, which impede their adoption in clinics. In this study, we developed a portable CRS system with a simultaneous dual-wavelength source and a miniaturized handheld probe (120 mm × 60 mm × 50 mm) that can acquire spectra in both fingerprint (FP, 450-1750 cm-1) and high wavenumber (HW, 2800-3800 cm-1) regions simultaneously. An innovative design combining 671 and 785 nm lasers for simultaneous excitation through a compact and high-efficiency (>90%) wavelength combiner was implemented. Moreover, to decouple the fused FP and HW spectra, a first-of-its-kind precise Raman spectra separation algorithm (PRSSA) was developed based on the maximum a posteriori probability (MAP) estimate. The accuracy of spectra separation was greater than 99%, demonstrated in both phantom experiments and in vivo human skin measurements. The total data acquisition time was reduced by greater than 50% compared to other CRS systems. The results proved our proposed CRS system and PRSSA's superior capability in fast and ultrawideband spectra acquisition will significantly improve the integration of CRS in the clinical workflow.

Topically applied lipid-containing emulsions based on PEGylated emulsifiers: Formulation, characterization, and evaluation of their impact on skin properties ex vivo and in vivo

PEGylated emulsifiers have been largely used in topical formulations for skin research. They have been a continuous study focus in our group as well. According to our previous studies, severe interruptions of the skin barrier were observed with certain types of emulsifiers. To restore the skin barrier function and counteract the effects of emulsifiers, we considered topically delivering lipids into the lipid matrix of the SC. Herein, PEG-20 cetyl ether (C20) -based oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions were developed owing to the stronger interactions of C20 with skin. The lipids containing ceramides (Cers), palmitic acids (PA), and cholesterol with different ratios and combinations were merged into the base emulsion. PEG-40 stearyl ether (S40)-based emulsion was used as a reference as S40 showed negligible impact on SC lipids. The evaluations were conducted ex vivo with confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) regarding the SC lipid, SC thickness, and skin penetration properties. In parallel, the in vivo irritation studies were also implemented including the transepidermal-water-loss (TEWL), skin hydration, and erythema index. The results indicated less SC lipid extraction of topically delivered lipids on ex vivo porcine skin with the addition and ratio of incorporated Cers influencing the extent of formulations counteracting the skin interruption by C20. The ex vivo penetration study showed a similar trend in drug penetration depths. In regards to the in vivo studies, TEWL was demonstrated to be suitable for differentiating the impact on skin barrier properties. The in vivo observations were generally correlated with the ex vivo results. The exact findings in this research can lead us to a better selection of applied lipid components and compositions. Future research will elucidate which type of Cer was predominantly extracted by C20, advancing future formulation development.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.