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Gilligan I, d’Errico F, Doyon L, Wang W, Kuzmin YV. Paleolithic eyed needles and the evolution of dress. SCIENCE ADVANCES 2024; 10:eadp2887. [PMID: 38941472 PMCID: PMC11212769 DOI: 10.1126/sciadv.adp2887] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/18/2024] [Accepted: 05/21/2024] [Indexed: 06/30/2024]
Abstract
Eyed needles are among the most iconic of Paleolithic artifacts, traditionally seen as rare indicators of prehistoric clothing, particularly tailoring. However, recent finds across Africa and Eurasia show that other technologies like bone awls also facilitated the creation of fitted garments. Nonetheless, the advent of delicate eyed needles suggests a demand for more refined, efficient sewing. This refinement may signify two major developments: the emergence of underwear in layered garment assemblages, and/or a transition in adornment from body modification to decorating clothes, as humans covered themselves more completely for thermal protection. Archaeological evidence for underwear is limited, but the Upper Paleolithic saw an increase in personal ornaments, some sewn onto clothing. Eyed needles may mark a pivotal shift as clothes acquired the social functions of dress, decoupling clothing from climate and ensuring its enduring presence.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ian Gilligan
- School of Humanities, The University of Sydney, NSW 2006, Australia
| | - Francesco d’Errico
- Université de Bordeaux, CNRS, MCC, PACEA, UMR5199, Pessac 33615, France
- University of Bergen, Centre for Early Sapiens Behaviour (SapienCE), Department of Archaeology, History, Cultural Studies and Religion, Bergen 5020, Norway
| | - Luc Doyon
- Université de Bordeaux, CNRS, MCC, PACEA, UMR5199, Pessac 33615, France
| | - Wei Wang
- Institute of Cultural Heritage, Shandong University, Qingdao 266237, China
| | - Yaroslav V. Kuzmin
- Sobolev Institute of Geology and Mineralogy, Siberian Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Novosibirsk 630090, Russia
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Baker J, Rigaud S, Pereira D, Courtenay LA, d'Errico F. Evidence from personal ornaments suggest nine distinct cultural groups between 34,000 and 24,000 years ago in Europe. Nat Hum Behav 2024; 8:431-444. [PMID: 38287173 DOI: 10.1038/s41562-023-01803-6] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/26/2023] [Accepted: 12/12/2023] [Indexed: 01/31/2024]
Abstract
Mechanisms governing the relationship between genetic and cultural evolution are the subject of debate, data analysis and modelling efforts. Here we present a new georeferenced dataset of personal ornaments worn by European hunter-gatherers during the so-called Gravettian technocomplex (34,000-24,000 years ago), analyse it with multivariate and geospatial statistics, model the impact of distance on cultural diversity and contrast the outcome of our analyses with up-to-date palaeogenetic data. We demonstrate that Gravettian ornament variability cannot be explained solely by isolation-by-distance. Analysis of Gravettian ornaments identified nine geographically discrete cultural entities across Europe. While broadly in agreement with palaeogenetic data, our results highlight a more complex pattern, with cultural entities located in areas not yet sampled by palaeogenetics and distinctive entities in regions inhabited by populations of similar genetic ancestry. Integrating personal ornament and biological data from other Palaeolithic cultures will elucidate the complex narrative of population dynamics of Upper Palaeolithic Europe.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jack Baker
- CNRS UMR 5199 De la Préhistoire à l'Actuel: Culture, Environnement, et Anthropologie (PACEA), Université Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France.
| | - Solange Rigaud
- CNRS UMR 5199 De la Préhistoire à l'Actuel: Culture, Environnement, et Anthropologie (PACEA), Université Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France
| | - Daniel Pereira
- CNRS UMR 5199 De la Préhistoire à l'Actuel: Culture, Environnement, et Anthropologie (PACEA), Université Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France
| | - Lloyd A Courtenay
- CNRS UMR 5199 De la Préhistoire à l'Actuel: Culture, Environnement, et Anthropologie (PACEA), Université Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France
| | - Francesco d'Errico
- CNRS UMR 5199 De la Préhistoire à l'Actuel: Culture, Environnement, et Anthropologie (PACEA), Université Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France
- SFF Centre for Early Sapiens Behaviour (SapienCE), University of Bergen, Bergen, Norway
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Yang SX, Zhang JF, Yue JP, Wood R, Guo YJ, Wang H, Luo WG, Zhang Y, Raguin E, Zhao KL, Zhang YX, Huan FX, Hou YM, Huang WW, Wang YR, Shi JM, Yuan BY, Ollé A, Queffelec A, Zhou LP, Deng CL, d'Errico F, Petraglia M. Initial Upper Palaeolithic material culture by 45,000 years ago at Shiyu in northern China. Nat Ecol Evol 2024; 8:552-563. [PMID: 38238436 DOI: 10.1038/s41559-023-02294-4] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/23/2023] [Accepted: 11/28/2023] [Indexed: 03/13/2024]
Abstract
The geographic expansion of Homo sapiens populations into southeastern Europe occurred by ∼47,000 years ago (∼47 ka), marked by Initial Upper Palaeolithic (IUP) technology. H. sapiens was present in western Siberia by ∼45 ka, and IUP industries indicate early entries by ∼50 ka in the Russian Altai and 46-45 ka in northern Mongolia. H. sapiens was in northeastern Asia by ∼40 ka, with a single IUP site in China dating to 43-41 ka. Here we describe an IUP assemblage from Shiyu in northern China, dating to ∼45 ka. Shiyu contains a stone tool assemblage produced by Levallois and Volumetric Blade Reduction methods, the long-distance transfer of obsidian from sources in China and the Russian Far East (800-1,000 km away), increased hunting skills denoted by the selective culling of adult equids and the recovery of tanged and hafted projectile points with evidence of impact fractures, and the presence of a worked bone tool and a shaped graphite disc. Shiyu exhibits a set of advanced cultural behaviours, and together with the recovery of a now-lost human cranial bone, the record supports an expansion of H. sapiens into eastern Asia by about 45 ka.
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Affiliation(s)
- Shi-Xia Yang
- Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China.
- Australian Research Centre for Human Evolution, Griffith University, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
| | - Jia-Fu Zhang
- MOE Laboratory for Earth Surface Processes, College of Urban and Environmental Sciences, Peking University, Beijing, China.
| | - Jian-Ping Yue
- Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
- Department of History, Anhui University, Hefei, China
| | - Rachel Wood
- Oxford Radiocarbon Accelerator Unit, Research Laboratory for Archaeology and the History of Art, University of Oxford, Oxford, UK
| | - Yu-Jie Guo
- Institute of Nihewan Archaeology, College of History and Culture, Hebei Normal University, Shijiazhuang, China
| | - Han Wang
- Department of Archaeology of Graduate School of Arts and Letters, Tohoku University, Sendai, Japan
| | - Wu-Gan Luo
- School of Humanities, University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Yue Zhang
- Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Emeline Raguin
- Department of Biomaterials, Max Planck Institute of Colloids and Interfaces, Potsdam, Germany
| | - Ke-Liang Zhao
- Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Yu-Xiu Zhang
- College of Earth and Planetary Sciences, University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Fa-Xiang Huan
- Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Ya-Mei Hou
- Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Wei-Wen Huang
- Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Yi-Ren Wang
- Shanxi Provincial Institute of Archaeology, Taiyuan, China
| | | | - Bao-Yin Yuan
- State Key Laboratory of Lithospheric Evolution, Institute of Geology and Geophysics, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Andreu Ollé
- Institut Català de Palaeoecologia Humana i Evolució Social (IPHES-CERCA), Tarragona, Spain
- Dept. d'Història i Història de l'Art, Universitat Rovira i Virgili, Tarragona, Spain
| | - Alain Queffelec
- Université de Bordeaux, PACEA UMR 5199, CNRS, Pessac, France
| | - Li-Ping Zhou
- MOE Laboratory for Earth Surface Processes, College of Urban and Environmental Sciences, Peking University, Beijing, China
| | - Cheng-Long Deng
- College of Earth and Planetary Sciences, University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
- State Key Laboratory of Lithospheric Evolution, Institute of Geology and Geophysics, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Francesco d'Errico
- Université de Bordeaux, PACEA UMR 5199, CNRS, Pessac, France.
- Centre for Early Sapiens Behaviour (SapienCE), Department of Archaeology, History, Cultural Studies and Religion, University of Bergen, Bergen, Norway.
| | - Michael Petraglia
- Australian Research Centre for Human Evolution, Griffith University, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
- School of Social Science, University of Queensland, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
- Human Origins Program, National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC, USA.
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Shen J, Li L, Zhang D, Dong S, Xiang J, Xu N. A Multi-Analytical Approach to Investigate the Polychrome Clay Sculpture in Qinglian Temple of Jincheng, China. MATERIALS (BASEL, SWITZERLAND) 2022; 15:5470. [PMID: 36013607 PMCID: PMC9409704 DOI: 10.3390/ma15165470] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/04/2022] [Revised: 07/22/2022] [Accepted: 07/29/2022] [Indexed: 06/15/2023]
Abstract
This article presents an integrated analytical method to investigate the polychrome clay sculptures of the Qinglian Temple in Jincheng City, Shanxi Province, China. Digital microscopy, SEM-EDS, XRD, Herzberg stain, Micro-Raman spectroscopy and FT-IR were selected to identify the raw materials and techniques used to produce the ground clay layer, the white powder layer and the mineral pigment of the polychrome clay sculptures. The investigation shows that the clay used to make the coarse and fine clay layer is consistent. However, different kinds of fibres were found mixed in the coarse and fine clay layers: wheat straw was the main fibre used in coarse clay layer, while the bast fibres, including ramie, kenaf and sisal hemp, were used as the fibre supports in the fine clay layers due to their useful properties. The white powder layer was made of a mixture of kaolinite and gypsum. For the mineral pigments, it principally contained red (hematite, minium or a mixture of minium and cinnabar), green (atacamite and atacamite), blue (azurite), yellow (yellow ochre), black (amorphous carbon) and white (the mixture of kaolinite and gypsum). Additionally, a gilding technique and multiple paint layers also typified many pigment areas. This work has furthered understanding of the materials and techniques used in making the sculptures of the Qinglian Temple and has clear implications for the restoration and conservation treatments on these kinds of ancient painted clay sculptures.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jingyi Shen
- School of History and Culture, Shandong University, Jinan 250100, China
| | - Li Li
- Shaanxi Institute for the Preservation of Cultural Heritage, Xi’an 710075, China
| | - Dandan Zhang
- School of History and Culture, Shandong University, Jinan 250100, China
| | - Shaohua Dong
- Shaanxi Institute for the Preservation of Cultural Heritage, Xi’an 710075, China
| | - Jiankai Xiang
- Shaanxi Institute for the Preservation of Cultural Heritage, Xi’an 710075, China
| | - Nuo Xu
- Xi’an Museum, Xi’an 710075, China
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