The Intriguing Molecular Dynamics of Cer[EOS] in Rigid Skin Barrier Lipid Layers Requires Improvement of the Model

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Investigating the Free Volumes as Nanospaces in Human Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers Using Positron Annihilation Lifetime Spectroscopy (PALS)

This work is the first one that provides not only evidence for the existence of free volumes in the human stratum corneum but also focuses on comparing these experimental data, obtained through the unique positron annihilation lifetime spectroscopy (PALS) method, with theoretical values published in earlier works. The mean free volume of 0.269 nm was slightly lower than the theoretical value of 0.4 nm. The lifetime τ3 (1.83 ns with a coefficient of variation CV of 3.21%) is dependent on the size of open sites in the skin. This information was used to calculate the free volume radius R (0.269 nm with CV 2.14%), free volume size Vf (0.081 nm3 with CV 4.69%), and the intensity I3 (9.01% with CV 10.94%) to estimate the relative fractional free volume fv (1.32 a.u. with CV 13.68%) in human skin ex vivo. The relation between the lifetime of o-Ps (τ3) and the radius of free volume (R) was formulated using the Tao-Eldrup model, which assumes spherical voids and applies to sites with radii smaller than 1 nm. The results indicate that PALS is a powerful tool for confirming the existence of free volumes and determining their size. The studies also focused on describing the probable locations of these nanospaces in SC lipid bilayers. According to the theory, these play an essential role in dynamic processes in biological systems, including the diffusion of low-molecular-weight hydrophobic and moderately hydrophilic molecules. The mechanism of their formation has been determined by the molecular dynamics of the lipid chains.

The molecular arrangement of ceramides in the unit cell of the long periodicity phase of stratum corneum models shows a high adaptability to different ceramide head group structures

The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol and free fatty acids (FFA), has an important role for the skin barrier function. The presence of the long periodicity phase (LPP), a unique lamellar phase, is characteristic for the SC. Insight into the lipid molecular arrangement within the LPP unit cell is imperative for understanding the relationship between the lipid subclasses and the skin barrier function. In this study, the impact of the CER head group structure on the lipid arrangement and barrier functionality was investigated using lipid models forming the LPP. The results demonstrate that the positions of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), two essentials CER subclasses, are not influenced by the addition of another CER subclass (N-(tetracosanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER NdS), N-(2R-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER AS) or D-(2R-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER AP)). However, differences are observed in the lipid organization and the hydrogen bonding network of the three different models. A similar localization of CER NP and CER NS is also observed in a more complex lipid model, with the CER subclass composition mimicking that of human SC. These studies show the adaptability and insensitivity of the LPP unit cell structure to changes in the lipid head group structures of the CER subclasses.

Lipid Monolayer on Cell Surface Protein Templates Functional Extracellular Lipid Assembly

When the ancestors of men moved from aquatic habitats to the drylands, their evolutionary strategy to restrict water loss is to seal the skin surface with lipids. It is unknown how these rigid ceramide-dominated lipids with densely packed chains squeeze through narrow extracellular spaces and how they assemble into their complex multilamellar architecture. Here it is shown that the human corneocyte lipid envelope, a monolayer of ultralong covalently bound lipids on the cell surface protein, templates the functional barrier assembly by partly fluidizing and rearranging the free extracellular lipids in its vicinity during the sculpting of a functional skin lipid barrier. The lipid envelope also maintains the fluidity of the extracellular lipids during mechanical stress. This local lipid fluidization does not compromise the permeability barrier. The results provide new testable hypotheses about epidermal homeostasis and the pathophysiology underlying diseases with impaired lipid binding to corneocytes, such as congenital ichthyosis. In a broader sense, this lipoprotein-mediated fluidization of rigid (sphingo)lipid patches may also be relevant to lipid rafts and cellular signaling events and inspire new functional materials.

Models of the Three-Component Bilayer of Stratum Corneum: A Molecular Simulation Study

The construction of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial to the problems of transdermal drug delivery. SC consists of the keratinocyte layers and the lipid matrix surrounding it. Among them, the lipid matrix is the barrier for many exogenous molecules, mainly composed of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL). In this work, we developed single-component (CERs, CER-NS, and CER-EOS) and six three-component models, and each model was simulated by using the GROMOS-54A7 force field. Short-period phase (SPP) and long-period phase (LPP) systems were established separately, and area per lipid (APL), thickness, order of carbon chain (SCD), and density distribution were analyzed. The transition of CER-NS and CER-EOS in LPP was observed. The results of hydrogen bonds in the lipid systems indicated that a strong hydrogen-bond network was formed between the skin-lipid bilayers. Umbrella sampling method simulations were performed to calculate the free energy change of ethanol moving into the skin-lipid bilayer. The results revealed that ethanol molecules pulled some water molecules into the membrane when they passed through SPP-1. Our findings provided some insights and models of the stratum corneum that could be used for the subsequent mechanism of macromolecule permeation through membranes in drugs, cosmetics, and so on.

Understanding the phase behavior of a protobiomembrane

The rich thermotropic behavior of lipid bilayers is addressed using phenomenological theory informed by many experiments. The most recent experiment not yet addressed by theory has shown that the tilt modulus in DMPC lipid bilayers decreases dramatically as the temperature is lowered toward the main transition temperature T_{M}. It is shown that this behavior can be understood by introducing a simple free energy functional for tilt that couples to the area per molecule. This is combined with a chain melting free energy functional in which the area is the primary order parameter that is the driver of the main transition. Satisfactory agreement with experiment is achieved with values of the model parameters determined by experiments, but the transition is directly into the gel phase. The theory is then extended to include the enigmatic ripple phase by making contact with the most recent experimentally determined ripple structure.