Changes in ultraviolet absorbance and hence in protective efficacy against lipid peroxidation of organic sunscreens after UVA irradiation

Skin Protection by Carotenoid Pigments

Sunlight, despite its benefits, can pose a threat to the skin, which is a natural protective barrier. Phototoxicity caused by overexposure, especially to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), results in burns, accelerates photoaging, and causes skin cancer formation. Natural substances of plant origin, i.e., polyphenols, flavonoids, and photosynthetic pigments, can protect the skin against the effects of radiation, acting not only as photoprotectors like natural filters but as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory remedies, alleviating the effects of photodamage to the skin. Plant-based formulations are gaining popularity as an attractive alternative to synthetic filters. Over the past 20 years, a large number of studies have been published to assess the photoprotective effects of natural plant products, primarily through their antioxidant, antimutagenic, and anti-immunosuppressive activities. This review selects the most important data on skin photodamage and photoprotective efficacy of selected plant carotenoid representatives from in vivo studies on animal models and humans, as well as in vitro experiments performed on fibroblast and keratinocyte cell lines. Recent research on carotenoids associated with lipid nanoparticles, nanoemulsions, liposomes, and micelles is reviewed. The focus was on collecting those nanomaterials that serve to improve the bioavailability and stability of carotenoids as natural antioxidants with photoprotective activity.

Sun protection, progress, myths, and inconsistencies (a proposal for the democratization of ISO 24443)

The concept of modern human sun protection is no more than one hundred years, but real development of it, including protection against UVA + UVB radiation (and more recently also the IR and blue light), has been no more than 30 years. One fundamental issue while formulating sunscreens is the photostability of the UV filters, which is particularly feeble for the UVA. The gold standard for the determination of sunscreen UVA protection "in vitro" is ISO 24443:2021. Still, interlaboratory results are not as consistent as expected. The Technical Committee for Cosmetics (ISO TC 217) has tried to standardize the method with precise specifications for the materials and equipment used. In particular, the standardization of UV exposure sources based on Xe arc lamps. This fact requires expensive equipment out of the reach of many laboratories to achieve adequate temperature control on the samples. In this paper, it will be shown that, within the experimental error, satisfactory results were achieved with a cheap commercial LED source irradiating only in the UVA spectra. Evidence is presented to conclude that other more relevant factors must be considered as the main cause of uncertainties.

Fungal melanin as a biocompatible broad-spectrum sunscreen with high antioxidant activity

Melanin is considered a bio-inspired dermo-cosmetic component due to its high UV absorption and antioxidant activity. Among various melanin sources, fungal melanin is a promising candidate for sunscreen because of its sustainability and scalability; however, quantitative assessment of its function has not yet been sufficiently explored. In this study, melanin samples derived from Amorphotheca resinae were prepared, followed by the evaluation of their sunscreen performance, antioxidant activity, and cytotoxicity. Melanin-blended cream was prepared by blending a melanin suspension and a pure cream. The cream showed an in vitro sun protection factor value of 2.5 when the pigment content was 5%. The cream showed a critical wavelength of approximately 388 nm and a UVA/UVB ratio of more than 0.81, satisfying the broad-spectrum sunscreen requirement. Oxygen radical absorbance capacity assays indicated that fungal melanin had antioxidant activity similar to ascorbic acid but higher than reduced glutathione. Fungal melanin had no statistically significant cytotoxicity to human keratinocyte cell lines until 72 h of exposure, even at a concentration of 4 mg mL-1. Consequently, melanin pigment can be used as a biocompatible broad-spectrum sunscreen with high antioxidant activity and as a practical alternative in dermo-cosmetic formulations.

Antioxidants as stabilizers of UV filters: an example for the UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate

Background

Sunlight is one of the main harmful exogenous factors that induce the reactive oxygen species formation. The human skin is the first line of photoprotection against harmful exogenous factors, such as UV radiations. The topical application of sunscreens, containing UV-B filters, is widely used to protect against UV-induced damage. Octylmethoxycinnamate is the world’s most widely used UV-B filter in sunscreens. However, recent studies have demonstrated that this substance is an endocrine disruptor compound and with potential to damage DNA. Thus, the safety of this organic filter is a current concern for human health, and it was urgent to develop new photoprotective strategies. In this sense, due to the potential to neutralize the UV-induced free radicals, the use of antioxidants as UV filter stabilizers presented as a novel promising strategy.

Research

The purpose of this review was to assess the use of antioxidants as stabilizers for UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate. For this, we discuss the chemical and physical characteristics of UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate, emphasizing the stability, photostability, and reactivity of this UV filter. The use of antioxidants in sunscreens will also be addressed, from a perspective of the main characteristics that allowed their use in sunscreen formulations. Then, the concomitant use of both was described from a historical and physical chemical perspective, always emphasizing the advantages and disadvantages of this association.

Conclusions

The combination of antioxidants with UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate in appropriated formulations represents a viable strategy to protect the human skin against UV-induced damage.

Investigation of different photochemical reactions of avobenzone derivatives by ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy

Avobenzone (AB) is one of the most widely used UVA sunscreens, and it is viewed as a model compound for studying the photoisomerization process. In recent years, Miranda and co-workers studied photophysical and photochemical reactions of several AB derivatives. However, there is still a gap in the data of these compounds in the ultrafast time region. To get a better understanding of the photophysical and photochemical reaction mechanisms, selected AB derivatives of AB-Me, AB-Pr, AB-Br and AB-Cl were studied using ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy and density functional theory calculations in the present study. It is unravelled that alkylated substituted AB compounds of AB-Me and AB-Pr exhibit an efficient intersystem crossing with the generation of the corresponding triplet state species, which further leads to the Norrish type II reaction for AB-Pr. On the other hand, AB-Br and AB-Cl prefer photochemical reactions via the singlet state surface. Based on the DFT calculations, the spin-orbit coupling constant between the singlet and triplet states, the energy difference between the singlet and triplet states and the natural transition orbital separations of the studied AB compounds were found to be the leading reasons accounting for their corresponding photochemical activities via singlet and triplet states.

Silymarin: Friend or Foe of UV Exposed Keratinocytes?

The application of natural plant extracts in UV-protection is popular and intensively studied. Silymarin (from Silibum marianum), a naturally occurring polyphenol, has recently received attention due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-apoptotic effects. However, its role in the UV-mediated keratinocyte cell response is still controversial. In this study, we investigated the effects of Silibum marianum extracts with different origins and formulations on UVA-exposed HaCaT keratinocytes in vitro. Our results show, that silymarin treatment caused an inverse dose-dependent photosensitivity relationship (at higher doses, a decrease in cell viability and ROS production) after UVA exposure. The attenuation of the UVA-induced ROS generation after silymarin treatment was also observed. Moreover, silymarin pre-treatment increased the cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer photolesions in keratinocytes after UVA exposure. These results indicated the dual role of silymarin in UVA-exposed keratinocytes. It scavenges ROS but still induces phototoxicity. Based on our results dermatological applications of silymarin and related compounds should be considered very carefully.

Stability of Principal Hydrolysable Tannins from Trapa taiwanensis Hulls

The fruit and hulls of the water caltrop (Trapa taiwanensis Nakai) are used as hepatoprotective herbal tea ingredients in Taiwan. The stability of hydrolysable tannins in herbal drinks has rarely been reported. In the present study, two hydrolysable tannins, tellimagrandin II (TGII) and 1,2,3,4,6-pentagalloylglucopyranose (PGG), were isolated from water caltrop hulls. The stability of the two compounds was evaluated by treatment with various pH buffer solutions, simulated gastric fluid and intestinal fluid, different temperatures, and photo-irradiation at 352 nm in different solvents. Results showed that TGII and PGG were more stable in a pH 2.0 buffer solution (with 91.88% remaining) and in a water solution with 352 nm irradiation (with 95% remaining). TGII and PGG were more stable in methanol or ethanol solutions (with >93.69% remaining) than in an aqueous solution (with <43.52% remaining) at 100 °C. In simulated gastric fluid, more than 96% of the hydrolysable tannins remained after incubation at 37 °C for 4 h. However, these hydrolysable tannins were unstable in simulated intestinal fluid, as after incubation at 37 °C for 9 h, the content of TGII had decreased to 31.40% and of PGG to 12.46%. The synthetic antioxidants, butyl hydroxy anisole (BHA), di-butyl hydroxy toluene (BHT), and propyl gallate, did not exhibit photoprotective effects on these hydrolysable tannins. However, catechin, a natural antioxidant, displayed a weak photoprotective effect. Ascorbic acid had a short-term thermal-protective effect but not a long-term protective effect. The different stability properties of hydrolysable tannins in solutions can be used in the development of related herbal teas in the future.

Estimation of physicochemical properties of 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC) degradation products and their toxicological evaluation

The organic UV filters, commonly used in personal protection products, are of concern because of their potential risk to aquatic ecosystems and living organisms. One of UV filters is ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC) acid. Studies have shown that, in the presence of oxidizing and chlorinating factors, EHMC forms a series of products with different properties than the substrate. In this study, the toxicities of EHMC and its transformation/degradation products formed under the influence of NaOCl/UV and H₂O₂/UV systems in the water medium were tested using Microtox® bioassay and by observation of mortality of juvenile crustaceans Daphnia magna and Artemia Salina. We have observed that oxidation and chlorination products of EHMC show significantly higher toxicity than EHMC alone. The toxicity of chemicals is related to their physicochemical characteristic such as lipophilicity and substituent groups. With the increase in lipophilicity of products, expressed as log K_OW, the toxicity (EC₅₀) increases. On the basis of physicochemical properties such as vapour pressure (VP), solubility (S), octanol-water partition coefficient (K_OW), bioconcentration factor (BCF) and half-lives, the overall persistence (P_OV) and long-range transport potential (LRTP) of all the products and EHMC were calculated. It was shown that the most persistent and traveling on the long distances in environment are methoxyphenol chloroderivatives, then methoxybenzene chloroderivatives, EHMC chloroderivatives, methoxybenzaldehyde chloroderivatives and methoxycinnamate acid chloroderivatives. These compounds are also characterised by high toxicity.

Photophysical properties of hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate (Uvinul A Plus), a UV-A absorber

DHHB (photostable UV-A absorber) may act as a triplet energy donor for OMC (the most widely used UV-B absorber) because the T₁energy of DHHB is higher than that of OMC.

Photostability of alpha-tocopherol ester derivatives in solutions and liposomes. Spectroscopic and LC-MS studies

α-Tocopherol (Toc) is known to degrade to the tocopheroxyl radicals (Toc) by exposure to UV light irradiation. In the present study, the stability of Toc ester derivatives exposed to UV light was investigated and compared with Toc in organic solution and in phospholipid vesicles. To follow the depletion of Toc and its esters the absorbance and fluorescence methods were applied whereas degradation products were detected using LC-MS method. The irradiation with UVB light of air-equilibrated solutions of di-α-Tocopheryl malonate (DTMO), α-Tocopheryl malonate (TMO) and α-Tocopheryl succinate (TS) strongly modifies their absorption and fluorescence spectra. Upon UVB irradiation, absorption band at 279/285nm becomes less pronounced indicating the photodegradation of esters. During irradiation, the fluorescence maximum of esters at 305nm shifts to 326nm, a maximum characteristic for Toc. Photorecovery of Toc from its esters derivatives was finally confirmed by LC-MS method. Among studied esters, only α-tocopheryl nicotinate (TN) did not undergo depletion and appeared resistant to UVB radiation. Kinetic studies indicated that photoinduced transformation occurs through the first order consecutive reaction chain mechanism. The photodissociation of Toc esters in the liposomes occurred with one order of magnitude slower than in organic solvents. Using MS/MS method it was found that final stable product of irradiation was α-tocopheryl quinone (TQ), an animal and plant metabolite of Toc.

Formation of chlorinated breakdown products during degradation of sunscreen agent, 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate in the presence of sodium hypochlorite

In this study, a new degradation path of sunscreen active ingredient, 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid (MCA) in the presence of sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl), was discussed. The reaction products were detected using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Since HOCl treatment leads to more polar products than EHMC, application of polar extracting agents, dichloromethane and ethyl acetate/n-hexane mixture, gave better results in terms of chlorinated breakdown products identification than n-hexane. Reaction of EHMC with HOCl lead to the formation of C=C bridge cleavage products such as 2-ethylhexyl chloroacetate, 1-chloro-4-methoxybenzene, 1,3-dichloro-2-methoxybenzene, and 3-chloro-4-methoxybenzaldehyde. High reactivity of C=C bond attached to benzene ring is also characteristic for MCA, since it can be converted in the presence of HOCl to 2,4-dichlorophenole, 2,6-dichloro-1,4-benzoquinone, 1,3-dichloro-2-methoxybenzene, 1,2,4-trichloro-3-methoxybenzene, 2,4,6-trichlorophenole, and 3,5-dichloro-2-hydroxyacetophenone. Surprisingly, in case of EHMC/HOCl/UV, much less breakdown products were formed compared to non-UV radiation treatment. In order to describe the nature of EHMC and MCA degradation, local reactivity analysis based on the density functional theory (DFT) was performed. Fukui function values showed that electrophilic attack of HOCl to the C=C bridge in EHMC and MCA is highly favorable (even more preferable than phenyl ring chlorination). This suggests that HOCl electrophilic addition is probably the initial step of EHMC degradation.

Photostability evaluation of five UV-filters, trans-resveratrol and beta-carotene in sunscreens

Trans-resveratrol (RES) is used in cosmetic formulations and beta-carotene (BTC) is a classical sunscreen antioxidant, but their photostability in sunscreens, a property directly correlated to performance and safety has not been addressed in the literature. This paper reports the assessment of RES and/or BTC influence on the photostability of five UV-filters (octyl methoxycinnamate - OMC, avobenzone -AVO, octocrylene - OCT, bemotrizinole - BMZ, octyltriazone - OTZ) in three different combinations after UVA exposure followed by the identification of degradation products and the assessment of photoreactivity. The evaluation of sunscreen photostability was performed by HPLC and spectrophotometric analysis, and degradation products were identified by GC-MS analysis. Components RES, BTC, OMC and AVO were significantly degraded after UV exposure (reduction of around 16% in recovery). According to HPLC analysis, all formulations presented similar photostability profiles. Eleven degradation products were identified in GC-MS analysis, among them products of RES, BTC, OMC and AVO photodegradation. All evaluated formulations were considered photoreactive, as well as the isolated compounds RES and AVO. Considering HPLC, spectrophotometric and GC-MS results, it is suggested that formulations containing BMZ were considered the most photostable. The combination RES+BTC in a sunscreen improved the photostability of AVO. The benefits of using a combination of antioxidants in sunscreens was demonstrated by showing that using RES+BTC+studied UV-filters led to more photostable formulations, which in turn implies in better safety and efficacy.

Photochemical reactions of halogenated aromatic 1,3-diketones in solution studied by steady state, one- and two-color laser flash photolyses

Photoreactions of 1,3-diketones having halogen atoms at the C2 position are investigated by steady state, one- and two-color laser photolyses and DFT calculation.

Efficacy evaluation of a multifunctional cosmetic formulation: the benefits of a combination of active antioxidant substances

This study presents the association of active antioxidants substances in a multifunctional cosmetic formulation with established efficacy against signs of aging. A multifunctional cosmetic formulation containing an association of UV filters and antioxidant substances (liposoluble vitamins A, C and E, Ginkgo biloba and Phorphyra umbilicalis extracts) was evaluated. This formulation was submitted to a clinical efficacy study using biophysics techniques and skin images analysis (digital photography imaging systems, 20 MHz ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy). The volunteers applied the formulation containing the UV filters and antioxidant substances during the day and the formulation with antioxidant substances and without the UV filters at night, for 90 days. The formulation increased the hydration and protected the skin barrier function after a single application. At the long term assessment the formulation provided an improvement in skin barrier function and skin hydration to the deeper layers of the epidermis, leading to an improvement in skin appearance by reducing wrinkles and skin roughness. The multifunctional cosmetic formulation studied can be suggested to preventing signs of aging and improving skin conditions. In addition, this study presents the benefits of associating different active antioxidants substances in a single cosmetic formulation to prevent skin aging.

Photoexcited states of UV absorbers, benzophenone derivatives

The UV absorption, phosphorescence and phosphorescence-excitation spectra of benzophenone (BP) derivatives used as organic UV absorbers have been observed in rigid solutions at 77 K. The triplet-triplet absorption spectra have been observed in acetonitrile at room temperature. The BP derivatives studied are 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (BP-2), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-3), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (BP-6), 5-chloro-2-hydroxybenzophenone (BP-7) and 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone (BP-12). The energy levels and lifetimes of the lowest excited triplet (T1 ) states of these BP derivatives were determined from the first peak of phosphorescence. The time-resolved near-IR emission spectrum of singlet oxygen generated by photosensitization with BP-7 was observed in acetonitrile at room temperature. BP-2, BP-3, BP-6 and BP-12 show photoinduced phosphorescence enhancement in ethanol at 77 K. The possible mechanism of the observed phosphorescence enhancement is discussed. The T1 states of 2-hydroxy-5-methylbenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzophenone and 2,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone have been studied for comparison.

Prevention of UVA-induced oxidative damage in human dermal fibroblasts by new UV filters, assessed using a novel in vitro experimental system

BACKGROUND

UVA rays present in sunlight are able to reach the dermal skin layer generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) responsible for oxidative damage, alterations in gene expression, DNA damage, leading to cell inflammation, photo-ageing/-carcinogenesis. Sunscreens contain UV filters as active ingredients that absorb/reflect/dissipate UV radiation: their efficiency depends on their spectral profile and photostability which should then be reflected in biological protection of underlying skin.

METHODS

A set of new UV filters was synthesized, and the most photostable one was compared to BMDBM, a widely used UVA filter. Cultured human dermal fibroblasts were exposed to UVA radiation which was filtered by a base cream containing or not UV filters placed above cell culture wells. The endpoints measured were: cell viability (MTT assay), ROS generation (DCFH-DA assay), mitochondrial function (JC-1 assay), DNA integrity (Comet assay) and gene expression (MMP-1, COL1A1) by RT-qPCR.

RESULTS

The new UV filter resulted more efficient than BMDBM in preserving cell viability, mitochondrial functionality and oxidative DNA damage, despite similar inhibition levels of intracellular ROS. Moreover, expression of genes involved in dermal photoageing were positively affected by the filtering action of the tested molecules.

CONCLUSIONS

The experimental model proposed was able to validate the efficacy of the new UV filter, taking into account important cellular events related to UV-induced intracellular oxidative stress, often underestimated in the assessments of these compounds.

GENERAL SIGNIFICANCE

The model may be used to compare the actual biological protection of commercial sunscreens and suncare products aside from their SPF and UVA-PF values.

Assessment of extracts of Helichrysum arenarium, Crataegus monogyna, Sambucus nigra in photoprotective UVA and UVB; photostability in cosmetic emulsions

The aim of our study was to investigate the photoprotective activity and photostability efficacy of sunscreen formulations containing Helichrysum arenarium, Sambucus nigra, Crataegus monogyna extracts and their combination. UV transmission of the emulsion films was performed by using diffuse transmittance measurements coupling to an integrating sphere. In vitro photoprotection and photostability efficacy were evaluated according to the following parameters: sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor (PF-UVA), UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength (λc) before and after UV irradiation. The results obtained show that the formulations containing polyphenols fulfill the official requirements for sunscreen products due to their broad spectrum of UV protection combined with their high photostability and remarkable antioxidant properties. Therefore H. arenarium, S. nigra, C. monogyna extracts represent useful additives for cosmetic formulation.

Lipid nanoparticles based on butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane: in vitro UVA blocking effect

The aim of the present study was to obtain efficient lipid nanoparticles loaded with butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) in order to develop cosmetic formulations with enhanced UVA blocking effect. For this purpose, two adequate liquid lipids (medium chain triglycerides and squalene) have been used in combination with two solid lipids (cetyl palmitate and glyceryl stearate) in order to create appropriate nanostructured carriers with a disordered lipid network able to accommodate up to 1.5% BMDBM. The lipid nanoparticles (LNs) were characterized in terms of particle size, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency, loading capacity and in vitro UVA blocking effect. The efficiency of lipid nanoparticles in developing some cosmetic formulations has been evaluated by determining the in vitro erythemal UVA protection factor. In order to quantify the photoprotective effect, some selected cream formulations based on BMDBM-LNs and a conventional emulsion were exposed to photochemical UV irradiation at a low energy to simulate the solar energy during the midday. The results obtained demonstrated the high ability of cream formulations based on BMDBM-LNs to absorb more than 96% of UVA radiation. Moreover, the developed cosmetic formulations manifest an enhanced UVA blocking effect, the erythemal UVA protection factor being four times higher than those specific to conventional emulsions.

UV-ABC screens of luteolin derivatives compared to edelweiss extract

Pure luteolin is a remarkably heat (200°C/6 days) and UV stable UV-A screen, however, native luteolin enriched to 37% in an edelweiss extract lost its UV-A screen properties upon UV irradiation (∼4MJm(-2)). This contrasting behavior led to the examination of a series of purified luteolin derivatives as UV screen candidates. 3',4',5,7-Tetralipoyloxyflavones were synthesized from luteolin (3',4',5,7-tetrahydroxyflavone) and fatty acid chlorides. These acylated semi-biomolecules show a hypsochromic shift in UV-Vis spectra of about Δλ(A→B)=58nm and absorbed in the centre of the harmful UV-B band (λ(max)=295nm). Luteolin was also hydroxyethylated with Br(CH(2))(2)OH. This substitution has no effect on the λ(max)=330nm absorption of luteolin (UV-A band). Finally the natural 4'-O-β-glucosyl-3',5,7-trihydroxyflavone was extracted from edelweiss and used as a purified natural benchmark. Glycosylated and hydroxyethylated luteolin are both UV stable. Fully acylated luteolin derivatives degrade upon UV exposure to a stable UV-C screen with a hypsochroic shift Δλ(B→C)=35nm. All in all, three molecular structures based on luteolin with sunscreen properties were found, distinguishable in: UV-A, UV-B, and UV-C filters. The natural product based UV-absorbers show promise as alternatives to synthetic molecules and nanoparticles in sunscreen products.

Photostabilization effect of quercetin on the UV filter combination, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane-octyl methoxycinnamate

The aim of the study was to investigate the effect of the natural antioxidant quercetin on the photostability of the most widely used combination of UVA (320-400 nm) and UVB (290-320 nm) filters, respectively butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC). In order to reproduce the conditions prevalent in commercial sunscreen products, the stabilizing efficacy of quercetin was evaluated in model creams containing BMDBM (3%, wt/wt) together with OMC (4%, wt/wt) and exposed to a solar simulator at an irradiance corresponding to natural sunlight. Quercetin was found to enhance the photostability of the two UV filters in a concentration-dependent way. Addition of quercetin to the sunscreen formulation significantly reduced the photodegradation of BMDBM and OMC from 40.3 +/- 2.4 to 27.7 +/- 2.6% and from 51.3 +/- 2.1 to 42.2 +/- 2.0%, respectively. Moreover, comparative photodegradation studies demonstrated that quercetin was much more effective and at a lower concentration than commonly used stabilizer (octocrylene) and antioxidants (vitamin E, butylated hydroxyanisole). In vitro determination of the UVB and UVA protection parameters showed that the quercetin-based formulation fulfilled the official requirements on sunscreen products. Because of its photostabilizing and multiple antioxidant properties, quercetin represents a useful additive for the formulation of effective broad-spectrum sunscreens containing BMDBM and OMC.