Contribution of UVA irradiance to the erythema and photoaging effects in solar and sunbed exposures

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Fetească Neagră, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Ultraviolet Radiation Biological and Medical Implications

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays a crucial role in the development of melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. The types of UV radiation are differentiated by wavelength: UVA (315 to 400 nm), UVB (280 to 320 nm), and UVC (100 to 280 nm). UV radiation can cause direct DNA damage in the forms of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and 6-4 photoproducts (6-4PPs). In addition, UV radiation can also cause DNA damage indirectly through photosensitization reactions caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS), which manifest as 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanine (8-OHdG). Both direct and indirect DNA damage can lead to mutations in genes that promote the development of skin cancers. The development of melanoma is largely influenced by the signaling of the melanocortin one receptor (MC1R), which plays an essential role in the synthesis of melanin in the skin. UV-induced mutations in the BRAF and NRAS genes are also significant risk factors in melanoma development. UV radiation plays a significant role in basal cell carcinoma (BCC) development by causing mutations in the Hedgehog (Hh) pathway, which dysregulates cell proliferation and survival. UV radiation can also induce the development of squamous cell carcinoma via mutations in the TP53 gene and upregulation of MMPs in the stroma layer of the skin.

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging.

AIMS

The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials.

METHODS

We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms.

RESULTS

The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1β, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo.

CONCLUSION

The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

Mitochondria and light: An overview of the pathways triggered in skin and retina with incident infrared radiation

Slightly more than half of the solar radiation that passes through the atmosphere and reaches the Earth's surface is infrared. Over the past few years, many papers have been published on the possible positive effects of receiving this part of the electromagnetic spectrum. In this article we analyse the role of mitochondria in the supposed effects of infrared light based on the published literature. It is claimed that ATP synthesis is stimulated, which has a positive effect on the skin by increasing fibroblast proliferation, anchorage and production of collagen fibres, procollagen, and various cytokines responsible for the wound healing process, such as keratinocyte growth factor. Currently there are infrared light emitting equipment whose manufacturers and the centres where this service or treatment is offered claim that they are used for skin rejuvenation among other positive effects. Based on the literature review, it is necessary to deepen the scientific study of the mechanism of absorption of infrared radiation through the skin to better understand its possible positive effects, the risks of overexposure and to improve consumer health protection.

UVA Radiation, DNA Damage, and Melanoma

Melanoma is a lethal type of skin tumor that has been linked with sunlight exposure chiefly in fair-skinned human populations. Wavelengths from the sun that can reach the earth's surface include UVA radiation (320-400 nm) and UVB radiation (280-320 nm). UVB effectively induces the formation of dimeric DNA photoproducts, preferentially the cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs). The characteristic UVB signature mutations in the form of C to T mutations at dipyrimidine sequences are prevalent in melanoma tumor genomes and have been ascribed to deamination of cytosines within CPDs before DNA polymerase bypass. However, evidence from epidemiological, animal, and other experimental studies also suggest that UVA radiation may participate in melanoma formation. The DNA damage relevant for UVA includes specific types of CPDs at TT sequences and perhaps oxidative DNA damage to guanine, both induced by direct or indirect, photosensitization-mediated chemical and biophysical processes. We summarize the evidence for a potential role of UVA in melanoma and discuss some of the mechanistic pathways of how UVA may induce mutagenesis in melanocytes.

Cyanobacteria and Red Macroalgae as Potential Sources of Antioxidants and UV Radiation-Absorbing Compounds for Cosmeceutical Applications

In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in Scytonema sp. (BEA 1603B) and Lyngbya sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae Porphyra umbilicalis, Gelidium corneum and Osmundea pinnatifida and in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. Scytonema sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in Scytonema sp. and P. umbilicalis. Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:_dH₂O (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Towards a Sustainable Indoor Lighting Design: Effects of Artificial Light on the Emotional State of Adolescents in the Classroom

In recent years, articles have been published on the non-visual effects of light, specifically the light emitted by the new luminaires with light emitting diodes (LEDs) and by the screens of televisions, computer equipment, and mobile phones. Professionals from the world of optometry have raised the possibility that the blue part of the visible light from sources that emit artificial light could have pernicious effects on the retina. The aim of this work is to analyze the articles published on this subject, and to use existing information to elucidate the spectral composition and irradiance of new LED luminaires for use in the home and in public spaces such as educational centers, as well as considering the consequences of the light emitted by laptops for teenagers. The results of this research show that the amount of blue light emitted by electronic equipment is lower than that emitted by modern luminaires and thousands of times less than solar irradiance. On the other hand, the latest research warns that these small amounts of light received at night can have pernicious non-visual effects on adolescents. The creation of new LED luminaires for interior lighting, including in educational centers, where the intensity of blue light can be increased without any specific legislation for its control, makes regulatory developments imperative due to the possible repercussions on adolescents with unknown and unpredictable consequences.

Development of UVB LED Lighting System Based on UV Dose Calculation Algorithm to Meet Individual Daily UV Dose

Ultraviolet B (UVB) in sunlight is known to promote health when humans are exposed to optimum sunlight. Proper exposure to ultraviolet B is essential to produce vitamin D in the body, which is a particularly important factor for health. However, there has been an increase recently in the number of people who are lacking sunlight exposure due to staying indoors. Avoiding ultraviolet (UV) rays leads to health deterioration. To solve this problem, a portable ultraviolet measuring device that provides users with the UV intensity information of outdoor sunlight has been developed while UVB Light Emitting Diode (LED) lighting technologies capable of providing UVB radiation have been studied. However, existing technologies are mere methods for providing information on ultraviolet rays and artificially exposing to ultraviolet rays, and there is a risk for the UV radiation amount to not meet the daily required UV dose. Therefore, in this paper, a UVB LED general lighting system based on a UV exposure calculation algorithm that supports users’ daily required UV dose is proposed. The proposed system is composed of an IoT (Internet of Things) UV measuring device that measures the UV dose indoors, as well as outdoors, UVB LED general lighting which can safely provide UVB doses at indoors, and a smartphone which provides information on the cumulative UV dose and the estimated amount of vitamin D while it controls UVB LED general lighting. In addition, it is possible to support users’ vitamin D synthesis by providing as much UV light as its shortage through UVB LED general lighting, based on an individual’s UV exposure amount through outdoor sunlight, using a smartphone implementing a UV dose calculation algorithm. In order to confirm the performance of the proposed system, a simulation was conducted assuming that users with skin types 2 and 3 performed outdoor activities within 30 min and entered the room. The result confirmed that the proposed lighting can provide users of all ages with the UV dose required per day.

Development of a UV Index Sensor-Based Portable Measurement Device with the EUVB Ratio of Natural Light

Ultraviolet (UV) rays are electromagnetic waves that account for about 5% of solar light, and when overexposed, they pose malevolent effects on human skin and health. However, with recent reports on the beneficial effects of some wavelength bands of UV rays, people's interest in UV information has increased. This has resulted in requiring not just simple information, such as the amount of UV or UV index (UVI), but detailed UV information that directly affects health, such as EUVB (erythemally weighted UVB). However, calculating EUVB, which can be done by applying the erythemal weighted function on the intensity value in wavelength, requires specialized optical measurement devices, which cannot be easily accessed by the general public; furthermore, public institutions' UV information services do not offer EUVB information for individuals. Therefore, the present study proposes a UVI sensor-based portable measurement device, with which the general public can have easy access to UV-related information. The proposed device comprises a UVI sensor that can measure the intensity of erythemal UV radiation, a Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) module that supports communication, and a micro controller unit (MCU) for key operations. In addition, it applies the ratio of EUVB by month/time, resulting from the actual analysis of natural light to calculate the EUVB and provides the amount of UVI and EUVB to check if they meet conditions required for outdoor activities through the device and smartphone applications. The applicability of the proposed device was verified by the measurement performance comparison test with the standard device, a spectrometer (CAS 140 CT), which showed an average error of 0.045 for UVI and 0.0014 W/m². The proposed device's offering of UV-related information such as UVI and EUVB to the user is expected to prevent potential damage due to exposure to UV and to support healthy outdoor activities.

Nail dryer devices: a measured spectral irradiance and labelling review

The use of nail dryer devices does not represent a critical risk. The expected erythemal doses are lower than that from surface solar radiation in summer months.

Polycomb group proteins: Novel molecules associated with ultraviolet A-induced photoaging of human skin

Epigenetic repressor polycomb group (PcG) proteins are thought to serve a role in a number of cellular processes, including carcinogenesis, senescence, apoptosis and DNA repair. In the present study, long-wave ultraviolet A (UVA) was used to irradiate human skin fibroblasts (HSFs) and embryonic skin fibroblasts (ESFs) in order to simulate photoaging of the skin. The results of cell proliferation, apoptosis, hyaluronic acid (HA) content and reverse transcription-quantitative polymerase chain reaction assays revealed that the expression levels of genes encoding key PcG proteins (BMI-1 and EZH2) were altered. In addition, the expression levels of these genes were associated with the expression of enzymes that regulate HA synthesis. Furthermore, the expression levels of PcG proteins differed between HSFs and ESFs, suggesting that PcG proteins serve a role in altering HA synthesis during the UVA-induced fibroblast aging process. This signaling pathway may represent a novel molecular mechanism regulating the photoaging of the skin. The findings of the present study provide important insights into the underlying mechanisms of photoaging of the human skin. Further studies are required to clarify the molecular mechanisms underling skin aging and to identify targets for the clinical treatment of photoaging.

Regenerative and reparative effects of human chorion-derived stem cell conditioned medium on photo-aged epidermal cells

Epidermal cells are an important regenerative source for skin wound healing. Aged epidermal cells have a low ability to renew themselves and repair skin injury. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation, particularly UVB, can cause photo-aging of the skin by suppressing the viability of human epidermal cells. A chorion-derived stem cell conditioned medium (CDSC-CNM) is thought to have regenerative properties. This study aimed to determine the regenerative effects of CDSC-CNM on UVB-induced photo-aged epidermal cells. Epidermal cells were passaged four times and irradiated with quantitative UVB, and non-irradiated cells served as a control group. Cells were then treated with different concentrations of CDSC-CNM. Compared to the non-irradiated group, the proliferation rates and migration rates of UVB-induced photo-aged epidermal cells significantly decreased (p < 0.05) with increasing intracellular radical oxygen species (ROS) generation and DNA damage. After treatment with CDSC-CNM, photo-aged epidermal cells significantly improved their viability, and their ROS generation and DNA damage decreased. The secretory factors in CDSC-CNM, including epidermal growth factor (EGF), transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β), interleukin (IL)-6, and IL-8 and the related signaling pathway protein levels, increased compared to the control medium (CM). The potential regenerative and reparative effects of CDSC-CNM indicate that it may be a candidate material for the treatment of prematurely aged skin. The functions of the secretory factors and the mechanisms of CDSC-CNM therapy deserve further attention.

Ultraviolet exposure from indoor tanning devices: a systematic review

Use of indoor tanning devices increases the risk of cutaneous melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancer. Indoor tanning devices have become important sources of ultraviolet (UV) exposure, both UVB and UVA. This systematic review assessed UV measurements performed in indoor tanning devices related to irradiance level, wavelength distribution and similarities to natural sun. The study was performed in accordance with the MOOSE and PRISMA guidelines. We searched PubMed, Embase and Web of Science from inception to May 2015, and also examined the reference lists of the retrieved studies. Eighteen studies were included. Twelve studies examined the erythema-weighted UV irradiances of indoor tanning devices, 11 studies examined UVB and 13 studies studied UVA. Compliance with irradiance limits was reported in nine studies. Erythema-weighted irradiances were highest in the most recent studies. Most studies had mean values higher than from natural sun and with large variations between devices. All studies except two had mean unweighted UVB irradiances lower than from natural summer sun (at latitudes from 37°S to 35°N), while mean unweighted UVA irradiances were, with one exception, substantially higher than from natural sun. The high values of UVA exposure from modern tanning devices are alarming in light of the increased focus on UVA irradiance as a carcinogen, and as UVA exposure confers little protection against subsequent UV exposure.