Photophysics of the sunscreen ingredient menthyl anthranilate and its precursor methyl anthranilate: A bottom-up approach to photoprotection

Competing electrophilic substitution and oxidative polymerization of arylamines with selenium dioxide

This article describes the detailed analysis of the reaction between arylamines, such as aniline, o-anisidine, and methyl anthranilate, with selenium dioxide in acetonitrile. A systematic analysis of the reaction products with the help of 77Se NMR and single-crystal X-ray crystallography revealed that the reaction progress follows three major reaction pathways, electrophilic selenation, oxidative polymerization, and solvent oxidation. For aniline and o-anisidine, predominant oxidative polymerization occurred, leading to the formation of the respective polyaniline polymers as major products. For methyl anthranilate, the oxidative polymerization was suppressed due to the delocalization of amine lone pair electrons over the adjacent carboxylate function, which prompted the selenation pathway, leading to the formation of two of the isomeric diorganyl selenides of methyl anthranilate. The diaryl selenides were structurally characterized using single-crystal X-ray diffraction. Density functional theory calculations suggest that the highest occupied molecular orbital of methyl anthranilate was deeply buried, which suppressed the oxidative polymerization pathway. Due to solvent oxidation, oxamide formation was also noticed to a considerable extent. This study provides that utmost care must be exercised while using SeO2 as an electrophile source in aromatic electrophilic substitution reactions.

Development and Characterization of Methyl-Anthranilate-Loaded Silver Nanoparticles: A Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Gel for UV Protection

Methyl anthranilate (MA) is a naturally derived compound commonly used in cosmetic products, such as skin care products, fine perfumes, etc. The goal of this research was to develop a UV-protective sunscreen gel using methyl-anthranilate-loaded silver nanoparticles (MA-AgNPs). The microwave approach was used to develop the MA-AgNPs, which were then optimized using Box-Behnken Design (BBD). Particle size (Y1) and absorbance (Y2) were chosen as the response variables, while AgNO₃ (X1), methyl anthranilate concentration (X2), and microwave power (X3) were chosen as the independent variables. Additionally, the prepared AgNPs were approximated for investigations on in vitro active ingredient release, dermatokinetics, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). The study's findings showed that the optimal MA-loaded AgNPs formulation had a particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and percentage entrapment efficiency (EE) of 200 nm, 0.296 mV, -25.34 mV, and 87.88%, respectively. The image from transmission electron microscopy (TEM) demonstrated the spherical shape of the nanoparticles. According to an in vitro investigation on active ingredient release, MA-AgNPs and MA suspension released the active ingredient at rates of 81.83% and 41.62%, respectively. The developed MA-AgNPs formulation was converted into a gel by using Carbopol 934 as a gelling agent. The spreadability and extrudability of MA-AgNPs gel were found to be 16.20 and 15.190, respectively, demonstrating that the gel may spread very easily across the skin's surface. The MA-AgNPs formulation demonstrated improved antioxidant activity in comparison to pure MA. The MA-AgNPs sunscreen gel formulation displayed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviour, which is typical of skin-care products, and was found to be stable during the stability studies. The sun protection factor (SPF) value of MA-AgNPG was found to be 35.75. In contrast to the hydroalcoholic Rhodamine B solution (5.0 µm), the CLSM of rat skin treated with the Rhodamine B-loaded AgNPs formulation showed a deeper penetration of 35.0 µm, indicating the AgNPs formulation was able to pass the barrier and reach the skin's deeper layers for more efficient delivery of the active ingredient. This can help with skin conditions where deeper penetration is necessary for efficacy. Overall, the results indicated that the BBD-optimized MA-AgNPs provided some of the most important benefits over conventional MA formulations for the topical delivery of methyl anthranilate.

Quantum mechanics/molecular mechanics studies on the mechanistic photophysics of sunscreen oxybenzone in methanol solution

Herein, we have employed the QM(CASPT2//CASSCF)/MM method to explore the photophysical and photochemical mechanism of oxybenzone (OB) in methanol solution. Based on the optimized minima, conical intersections and crossing points, and minimum-energy reaction paths related to excited-state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) and excited-state decay paths in the ¹ππ*, ¹nπ*, ³ππ*, ³nπ*, and S₀ states, we have identified several feasible excited-state relaxation pathways for the initially populated S₂(¹ππ*) state to decay to the initial enol isomer' S₀ state. The major one is the singlet-mediated and stretch-torsion coupled ESIPT pathway, in which the system first undergoes an essentially barrierless ¹ππ* ESIPT process to generate the ¹ππ* keto species, and finally realizes its ground state recovery through the subsequent carbonyl stretch-torsion facilitating S₁ → S₀ internal conversion (IC) and the reverse ground-state intramolecular proton transfer (GSIPT) process. The minor ones are related to intersystem crossing (ISC) processes. At the S₂(¹ππ*) minimum, an S₂(¹ππ*)/S₁(¹nπ*)/T₂(³nπ*) three-state intersection region helps the S₂ system branch into the T₁ state through a S₂ → S₁ → T₁ or S₂ → T₂ → T₁ process. Once it has reached the T₁ state, the system may relax to the S₀ state via direct ISC or via subsequent nearly barrierless ³ππ* ESIPT to yield the T₁ keto tautomer and ISC. The resultant S₀ keto species significantly undergoes reverse GSIPT and only a small fraction yields the trans-keto form that relaxes back more slowly. However, due to small spin-orbit couplings at T₁/S₀ crossing points, the ISC to S₀ state occurs very slowly. The present work rationalizes not only the ultrafast excited-state decay dynamics of OB but also its phosphorescence emission at low temperature.

Exploring the photoexcited electron transfer dynamics in artificial sunscreen PBSA-coupled biocompatible ZnO quantum dots

Frequent exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation without any protection turns out to be a fatal threat leading to skin cancer, necessitating the use of sunscreen cosmetic product with enhanced efficiency to dissipate the UV absorbed energy.

Theoretical Studies on the Excited-State Decay Mechanism of Homomenthyl Salicylate in a Gas Phase and an Acetonitrile Solution

Here, we employ the CASPT2//CASSCF and QM(CASPT2//CASSCF)/MM approaches to explore the photochemical mechanism of homomenthyl salicylate (HMS) in vacuum and an acetonitrile solution. The results show that in both cases, the excited-state relaxation mainly involves a spectroscopically "bright" S₁(¹ππ*) state and the lower-lying T₁ and T₂ states. In the major relaxation pathway, the photoexcited S₁ keto system first undergoes an essentially barrierless excited-state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) to generate the S₁ enol minimum, near which a favorable S₁/S₀ conical intersection decays the system to the S₀ state followed by a reverse ground-state intramolecular proton transfer (GSIPT) to repopulate the initial S₀ keto species. In the minor one, an S₁/T₂/T₁ three-state intersection in the keto region makes the T₁ state populated via direct and T₂-mediated intersystem crossing (ISC) processes. In the T₁ state, an ESIPT occurs, which is followed by ISC near a T₁/S₀ crossing point in the enol region to the S₀ state and finally back to the S₀ keto species. In addition, a T₁/S₀ crossing point near the T₁ keto minimum can also help the system decay to the S₀ keto species. However, small spin-orbit couplings between T₁ and S₀ at these T₁/S₀ crossing points make ISC to the S₀ state very slow and make the system trapped in the T₁ state for a while. The present work rationalizes not only the ultrafast excited-state decay dynamics of HMS but also its low quantum yield of phosphorescence at 77 K.

Effects of substituent position on aminobenzoate relaxation pathways in solution

The negative effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin have led to the widespread use of sunscreens, i.e. skincare products containing UV filters to absorb, reflect or otherwise block UVR. The mechanisms by which UV filters dissipate energy following photoexcitation, i.e. their photodynamics, can crucially determine a molecule's performance as a sunscreen UV filter. In this work, we evaluate the effects of substituent position on the in-solution relaxation pathways of two derivates of methyl anthranilate (an ortho compound that is a precursor to the UV filter meradimate), meta- and para-methyl anthranilate, m-MA and p-MA, respectively. The photodynamics of m-MA were found to be sensitive to solvent polarity: its emission spectra show larger Stokes shifts with increasing polarity, and both the fluorescence quantum yield and lifetimes for m-MA increase in polar solvents. While the Stokes shifts for p-MA are much milder and more independent of solvent environment than those of m-MA, we find its fluorescence quantum yields to be sensitive not only to solvent polarity but to the hydrogen bonding character of the solvent. In both cases (m- and p-MA) we have found common computational methods to be insufficient to appropriately model the observed spectroscopic data, likely due to an inability to account for explicit solvent interactions, a known challenge in computational chemistry. Therefore, apart from providing insight into the photodynamics of anthranilate derivatives, the work presented here also provides a case study that may be of use to theoretical chemists looking to improve and develop explicit solvent computational methods.

New Generation UV-A Filters: Understanding Their Photodynamics on a Human Skin Mimic

The sparsity of efficient commercial ultraviolet-A (UV-A) filters is a major challenge toward developing effective broadband sunscreens with minimal human- and eco-toxicity. To combat this, we have designed a new class of Meldrum-based phenolic UV-A filters. We explore the ultrafast photodynamics of coumaryl Meldrum, CMe, and sinapyl Meldrum (SMe), both in an industry-standard emollient and on a synthetic skin mimic, using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies and computational simulations. Upon photoexcitation to the lowest excited singlet state (S₁), these Meldrum-based phenolics undergo fast and efficient nonradiative decay to repopulate the electronic ground state (S₀). We propose an initial ultrafast twisted intramolecular charge-transfer mechanism as these systems evolve out of the Franck-Condon region toward an S₁/S₀ conical intersection, followed by internal conversion to S₀ and subsequent vibrational cooling. Importantly, we correlate these findings to their long-term photostability upon irradiation with a solar simulator and conclude that these molecules surpass the basic requirements of an industry-standard UV filter.

Suppression of menthyl anthranilate (UV-A sunscreen)-sensitized singlet oxygen generation by Trolox and α-tocopherol

Menthyl anthranilate (MA, tradename meradimate) is a UV-A absorber. The interactions of ground-state molecular oxygen with the long-lived triplet state of MA produce singlet oxygen through energy transfer. The quantum yield of singlet oxygen generation is 0.12 in air-saturated ethanol. Kinetic traces of the near-IR phosphorescence of singlet oxygen generated by MA-photosensitization have been measured in the absence and presence of Trolox (a water-soluble analogue of vitamin E and a quencher of singlet oxygen) and α-tocopherol (vitamin E, a natural antioxidant) in ethanol. Fluorescence and transient absorption measurements suggest that Trolox and α-tocopherol quench the lowest excited singlet and triplet states of MA. As a result, Trolox and α-tocopherol suppress MA-photosensitized singlet oxygen generation. Not only the quenching of singlet oxygen but also the suppression of singlet oxygen generation is the mechanism of antioxidant properties of Trolox and α-tocopherol for MA. The ability of α-tocopherol to suppress the MA-photosensitized singlet oxygen generation in isododecane, used as a solvent for an oil-soluble UV absorber, is close to that in ethanol. Suppression of sunscreen-photosensitized singlet oxygen generation is an important method for the formulation of safe cosmetic sunscreens.

Computational and experimental characterization of novel ultraviolet filters

Many current ultraviolet filters present potential hazards both to humans and to the natural environment. As such there is a new impetus to develop, through intimate characterisation, ultraviolet filters for use in cosmeceuticals. Here we report a new class of organic molecules which have a strong absorption band across the ultraviolet-A and -B regions of the electromagnetic spectrum and high photostability. We have performed ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and steady-state spectroscopies, alongside computational studies to track and manipulate photoprotection mechanisms. Our results present a potentially new generation of ultraviolet filters for use in commercial formulations.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Antioxidants as Molecular Probes: Structurally Novel Dihydro-m-Terphenyls as Turn-On Fluorescence Chemodosimeters for Biologically Relevant Oxidants

One interesting aspect of antioxidant organic molecules is their use as probes for the detection and quantitation of biologically relevant reactive oxidant species (ROS). In this context, a small library of dihydroterphenyl derivatives has been synthesised and studied as fluorescent chemodosimeters for detecting reactive oxygen species and hypochlorite. The fluorescence quantum yields of these molecules are negligible, while the corresponding aromatized compounds formed upon oxidation show moderate to high native fluorescence, depending on their structures. The fluorescence signal is quickly developed in the presence of trace amounts of the probe and the analytes in acetonitrile media at room temperature, with good analytical figures. ROS detection in aqueous media required incubation at 37 °C in the presence of horseradish peroxidase, and was applied to glucose quantitation by coupling glucose oxidation by O₂ to fluorescence detection of H₂O₂. The mild reaction conditions and sensitive fluorescent response lead us to propose dihydroterphenyls with an embedded anthranilate moiety as chemosensors/chemodosimeters for ROS detection.

Ultrafast Nonadiabatic Photoisomerization Dynamics Mechanism for the UV Photoprotection of Stilbenoids in Grape Skin

Natural UV photoprotection plays a vital role in physiological protection. It has been reported that UVC radiation can make resveratrol (RSV) and piceatannol (PIC) accumulate in grape skin. In this work, we demonstrated that RSV and PIC could significantly absorb UVA and UVB, and confirmed their satisfactory photostability. Furthermore, we clarified the UV photoprotection mechanism of typical stilbenoids of RSV and PIC for the first time by using combined femtosecond transient absorption (FTA) spectroscopy and time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) calculations. RSV and PIC can be photoexcited to the excited state after UVA and UVB absorption. Subsequently, the photoisomerized RSV and PIC quickly relax to the ground state via nonadiabatic transition from the S₁ state at a conical intersection (CI) position between potential energy surfaces (PESs) of S₁ and S₀ states. This ultrafast trans-cis photoisomerization will take place within a few tens of picoseconds. As a result, the UV energy absorbed by RSV and PIC could be dissipated by an ultrafast nonadiabatic photoisomerization process.

Revisiting the Role of Irradiance in the Determination of Sunscreens' Sun Protection Factor

The efficacy of a sunscreen tends to be associated with its sun protection factor (SPF) value, a figure determined in a test that relies on the independence of the SPF value to both UV radiation dose and irradiance. We probe these assumptions when photoinduced product degradation is present, and we estimate that the theoretical limit for their validity is when the sunfilter active molecule relaxation time is faster than ∼10 ns. While such threshold relaxation time should be compatible with the expected ultrafast relaxation mechanisms of sunfilter molecules (picoseconds), recent research on sunfilter photodynamics has identified the existence of much longer-lived molecular states. Such long lifetimes could compromise sunscreen performance and make the SPF value very different in natural sun irradiance conditions than in the solar simulated conditions typically used in SPF determination tests.

Insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter homosalate

Homosalate has been found to exhibit favourable photophysics for inclusion in sunscreens, using a combination of spectroscopic and computational approaches.

Unravelling photoprotection in microbial natural products

Mycosporine-like amino acids have long been known as a natural form of photoprotection for fungi and cyanobacteria. This review will highlight the key time-resolved experimental and theoretical techniques unravelling their photochemistry and photophysics, and directly link this to their use in commercial skin-care products, namely as sunscreen filters. Three case studies have been selected, each having aided advancement in this burgeoning field of research. We discuss these studies in the context of photoprotection and conclude by evaluating the necessary future steps towards translating the photochemistry and photophysics insight of these nature derived sunscreen filters to commercial application.

Vibronic spectroscopy of methyl anthranilate and its water complex: hydrogen atom dislocation in the excited state

Laser-induced fluorescence (LIF) excitation, dispersed fluorescence (DFL), UV-UV-hole burning, and UV-depletion spectra have been collected on methyl anthranilate (MA, methyl 2-aminobenzoate) and its water-containing complex (MA-H₂O), under jet-cooled conditions in the gas phase. As a close structural analog of a sunscreen agent, MA has a strong absorption due to the S₀-S₁ transition that begins in the UV-A region, with the electronic origin at 28 852 cm^-1 (346.6 nm). Unlike most sunscreens that have fast non-radiative pathways back to the ground state, MA fluoresces efficiently, with an excited state lifetime of 27 ns. Relative to methyl benzoate, inter-system crossing to the triplet manifold is shut off in MA by the strong intramolecular NHO[double bond, length as m-dash]C H-bond, which shifts the ³nπ* state well above the ¹ππ* S₁ state. Single vibronic level DFL spectra are used to obtain a near-complete assignment of the vibronic structure in the excited state. Much of the vibrational structure in the excitation spectrum is Franck-Condon activity due to three in-plane vibrations that modulate the distance between the NH₂ and CO₂Me groups, ν₃₃ (421 cm^-1), ν₃₄ (366 cm^-1), and ν₃₆ (179 cm^-1). Based on the close correspondence between experiment and theory at the TD-DFT B3LYP-D3BJ/def2TZVP level of theory, the major structural changes associated with electronic excitation are evaluated, leading to the conclusion that the major motion is a reorientation and constriction of the 6-membered H-bonded ring closed by the intramolecular NHO[double bond, length as m-dash]C H-bond. This leads to a shortening of the NHO[double bond, length as m-dash]C H-bond distance from 1.926 Å to 1.723 Å, equivalent to about a 25% reduction in the HO distance compared to full H-atom transfer. As a result, the excited state process near the S₁ origin is a hydrogen atom dislocation that is brought about primarily by heavy atom motion, since the shortened H-bond distance results from extensive heavy-atom motion, with only a 0.03 Å increase in the NH bond length relative to its ground state value.

Wavepacket insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter methyl anthranilate

Meradimate is a broad-spectrum ultraviolet absorber used as a chemical filter in commercial sunscreens. Herein, we explore the ultrafast photodynamics occurring in methyl anthranilate (precursor to Meradimate) immediately after photoexcitation with ultraviolet radiation to understand the mechanisms underpinning Meradimate photoprotection. Using time-resolved photoelectron spectroscopy, signal from the first singlet excited state of methyl anthranilate shows an oscillatory behavior, i.e., quantum beats. Our studies reveal a dependence of the observed beating frequencies on photoexcitation wavelength and photoelectron kinetic energy, unveiling the different Franck-Condon overlaps between the vibrational levels of the ground electronic, first electronic excited, and ground cationic states of methyl anthranilate. By evaluating the behavior of these beats with increasing photon energy, we find evidence for intramolecular vibrational energy redistribution on the first electronic excited state. Such energy redistribution hinders efficient relaxation of the electronic excited state, making methyl anthranilate a poor choice for an efficient, efficacious sunscreen chemical filter.

Here, the authors explore the ultrafast photodynamics of methyl anthranilate. From the quantum beat behavior, the authors find evidence for ultrafast energy redistribution processes which hinder excited state relaxation, making methyl anthranilate a poor choice for a sunscreen chemical filter.

From fundamental science to product: a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development

Despite the pivotal role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sustaining life on Earth, overexposure to this type of radiation can have catastrophic effects, such as skin cancer. Sunscreens, the most common form of artificial protection against such harmful effects, absorb UV radiation before it reaches vulnerable skin cells. Absorption of UV radiation prompts ultrafast molecular events in sunscreen molecules which, ideally, would allow for fast and safe dissipation of the excess energy. However, our knowledge of these mechanisms remains limited. In this article, we will review recent advances in the field of ultrafast photodynamics (light induced molecular processes occurring within femtoseconds, fs, 10-15 s to picoseconds, ps, 10-12 s) of sunscreens. We follow a bottom-up approach to common sunscreen active ingredients, analysing any emerging trends from the current literature on the subject. Moreover, we will identify the main questions that remain unanswered, pinpoint some of the main challenges and finally comment on the outlook of this exciting field of research.