Structure of intermediate filament assembly in hair deduced from hydration studies using small-angle neutron scattering

Strain and Strain Recovery of Human Hair from the Nano- to the Macroscale

In this study, in operandi SAXS experiments were conducted on samples of human hair with a varying degree of strain (2% within the elastic region and 10% beyond). Four different features in the SAXS patterns were evaluated: The intermediate filament distance perpendicular to and the distance from the meridional arc in the load direction, as well as the distances of the lipid bilayer peak in and perpendicular to the load direction. From the literature, one concludes that polar lipids in the cuticle are the origin of the lipid peak in the SAXS pattern, and this study shows that the observed strain in the lipids is much lower than in the intermediate filaments. We support these findings with SEM micrographs, which show that the scales in the cuticle deform much less than the cortex. The observed deformation of the intermediate filaments is very high, about 70% of the macrostrain, and the ratio of the transverse strain to the longitudinal strain at the nanoscale gives a Poisson ratio of νnano = 0.44, which is typical for soft matter. This work also finds that by varying the time period between two strain cycles, the typical strain recovery time is about 1000 min, i.e., one day. After this period, the structure is nearly identical to the initial structure, which suggests an interpretation that this is the typical time for the self-healing of hair after mechanical treatment.

Alterations promoted by acid straightening and/or bleaching in hair microstructures

Human hair is a biopolymer constituted mainly of keratin intermediate filaments, lipids, pigments and water. Cosmetic treatments usually interact with the hair at the molecular level, inducing changes in its components and modifying the physicochemical and mechanical properties of the fibers. Here, the effect of acid straightening on the morphology and ultrastructure of Caucasian hair was investigated by a group of complementary experimental methods: wide-, small- and ultra-small-angle X-ray scattering; high-resolution 3D X-ray microscopy; quasi-elastic neutron scattering and inelastic neutron scattering; thermogravimetry-mass spectrometry; and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). X-ray diffraction patterns showed that acid straightening associated with a flat iron (∼180°C) changed the cortex of the fiber, shown by denaturation of the intermediate filaments (measured by DSC). The increase in the spacing of the lipid layers and the observation of the dehydration behavior of the fiber provided indications that water may be confined between these layers, while neutron spectroscopy showed alterations in the vibration mode of the CH2 groups of the lipids and an increase of the proton (H+) mobility in the hair structure. The latter may be associated with the extremely low pH of the formulation (pH ≃ 1). Additionally, this investigation showed that bleached hair (one-time bleached) is more damaged by the action of acid straightening than virgin hair, which was shown by a threefold increase in the percentage of total porosity of the tresses. The obtained results demonstrate that the investigation approach proposed here can provide very important thermodynamic and structural information on induced changes of hair structure, and certainly can be applied for the evaluation of the action mode and efficiency of cosmetic treatments.

Analysis of water distribution in delipidated human hair by small-angle neutron scattering (SANS)

OBJECTIVE

It is known that damaged hair has a part of its internal structure damaged, and its water absorption and desorption behavior are different. In recent years, it has been reported that internal lipids play an important role in the adsorption and desorption of water to the hair. Therefore, we investigate whether the water distribution in hair and the amount of internal lipids are related.

METHODS

To investigate the effect of internal lipid on water distribution, we prepare human hair samples with and without a partial lack of internal lipids. Internal lipids have been removed using formic acid. The distribution of D₂ O in the hair is investigated using small angle neutron scattering (SANS) under the wet and dry conditions of each hair sample.

RESULTS

It is found from the obtained SANS data that formic acid-treated hairs tended to have fewer 40Å-sized water clusters that were periodically present along the fibre axis in the wet condition. On the other hand, in the dry condition, there were no differences in water distribution between samples.

CONCLUSION

These observations are believed to have been caused by the reduction of 40Å-sized water clusters existing on the constituents removed by formic acid treatment, especially the hydrophobic (lipid) constituent tissues. Consequently, it is clarified that internal lipids are deeply involved in the state of water distribution on hair in wet conditions.

Recent insight into intermediate filament structure

Intermediate filaments (IFs) are key players in multiple cellular processes throughout human tissues. Their biochemical and structural properties are important for understanding filament assembly mechanisms, for interactions between IFs and binding partners, and for developing pharmacological agents that target IFs. IF proteins share a conserved coiled-coil central-rod domain flanked by variable N-terminal 'head' and C-terminal 'tail' domains. There have been several recent advances in our understanding of IF structure from the study of keratins, glial fibrillary acidic protein, and lamin. These include discoveries of (i) a knob-pocket tetramer assembly mechanism in coil 1B; (ii) a lamin-specific coil 1B insert providing a one-half superhelix turn; (iii) helical, yet flexible, linkers within the rod domain; and (iv) the identification of coil 2B residues required for mature filament assembly. Furthermore, the head and tail domains of some IFs contain low-complexity aromatic-rich kinked segments, and structures of IFs with binding partners show electrostatic surfaces are a major contributor to complex formation. These new data advance the connection between IF structure, pathologic mutations, and clinical diseases in humans.