Sustainable leather making - An amphoteric organic chrome-free tanning agents based on recycling waste leather

Discarded enoki mushroom root-derived multifunctional chrome-free chitosan-based tanning agent for eco-leathers manufacturing: Tanning-dyeing, non-acid soaking, and non-basifying

The aim of this study was to develop new discarded enoki mushroom root-derived multifunctional chrome-free chitosan-based tanning agents that can be used for eco-leather manufacturing. In this study, oligochitosan (OCS) was prepared from chitosan extracted from the enoki mushrooms and chemically modified using reactive dye R19 and epichlorohydrin (ECH) to prepare chromium-free tanning agent (OCS-R19-ECH) with both tanning and dyeing functions. FT-IR, XRD, and NMR (1H) confirmed the successful synthesis of the product. The molecular weight of OCS-R19-ECH is 6355 g/mol, with an average particle size of 1249.37 nm and an epoxy value of 0.276 mol/100 g. OCS-R19-ECH was used for tanning experiments on bated sheepskin, and the results showed that the leather tanned with OCS-R19-ECH not only exhibited excellent wet-heat stability (shrinkage temperature = 81 °C), but also superior dyeing uniformity, resistance to dry and wet abrasion, mechanical strength (tensile strength = 12.4 MPa, tear strength = 57.3 N/mm), and outstanding antimicrobial properties. Most importantly, compared with traditional tanning agents, OCS-R19-ECH has a higher pH (9.0), tanning-dyeing integration, non-acid soaking, and non-basifying can be achieved in leather making, which can greatly simplify the tanning processes. This new multifunctional chrome-free chitosan-based tanning agent facilitates high-value utilization of waste resources.

One-step approach to fabricating amphoteric polymer fatliquors for chrome-free tanned leather eco-manufacturing

The leather manufacturing industry is increasingly embracing chrome-free tanning methods to promote environmental sustainability. However, the transition to chrome-free tanning systems presents a notable obstacle: the incompatibility of traditional anionic wet finishing materials with chrome-free tanned leather due to differences in surface electrical behavior. Herein, an amphoteric polymer, referred to P(AA-co-DMAEMA-co-DA), was synthesized through a simple one-step free radical copolymerization using acrylic acid (AA), dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (DMAEMA), and dodecyl acrylate (DA). Notably, the isoelectric point of P(AA-co-DMAEMA-co-DA) is 7.7, which contributes to improving the leather's positive electric property and enhancing the binding between the amphoteric polymer fatliquors (APF) and collagen fiber. The APF achieves a remarkable absorption rate of 96.2% and a dyeing uptake rate of 94.3% for anionic dyes, resulting in a uniformly bright surface color of the dyed leather and further significantly reducing the dye usage. Overall, the comprehensive properties of APF align with the electrical origins of organic chrome-free tanning leather, exhibiting a pronounced fatliquoring effect while reducing the dye content in the waste liquor. This contribution holds promise for advancing chrome-free tanning technology toward greener environmental practices.

A systematic review of innovations in tannery solid waste treatment: A viable solution for the circular economy

Amidst growing global demand for leather goods, the efficient conversion of rawhide and skins into durable leather is crucial, yet approximately 80 % of these materials become solid and liquid waste during tannery operations. Improper management of tannery solid waste poses significant environmental risks, contaminating soil, groundwater, and surface water. This review explores thermochemical, biological, and phytoremediation methods for treating tannery solid waste, emphasizing their role in resource recovery and environmental sustainability. Thermochemical techniques like pyrolysis and gasification convert tannery solid waste into biochar, bio-oil, and syngas, which serve as soil amendments, renewable energy sources, or industrial feedstocks. Biological methods such as composting and anaerobic digestion decompose organic tannery solid waste components into nutrient-rich compost and biogas. Phytoremediation uses plants to remediate contaminants, including heavy metals, from tannery solid waste. These methods mitigate environmental pollution and support the leather industry's transition to sustainable practices, crucial for compliance with global regulations. Moreover, the review offers insights into current efforts and perspectives aimed at achieving a zero-waste policy, emphasizing the importance of a circular economy to alleviate the environmental burden associated with tannery operations and ensure their continued sustainability. Finally, a detailed discussion on the current challenges in terms of technology accessibility and economic feasibility was also discussed.

Tanning wastewater restructured nitrogen-transforming bacteria communities and promoted N2O emissions in receiving river riparian sediments

Physicochemical and toxicological characterization of leather tanning wastewater has been widely documented. However, few reports have examined the response of denitrification N2 and N2O emissions in riparian sediments of tannery wastewater-receiving rivers. In this study, 15N-nitrate labeling was used to reveal the effects of tanning wastewater on denitrification N2 and N2O emission in a wastewater-receiving river (the old Mang River, OMR). OMR riparian sediments were highly polluted with total organic carbon (93.39 mg/kg), total nitrogen (5.00 g/kg) and heavy metals; specifically, Cr, Zn, Cd, and Pb were found at concentrations 47.3, 5.8, 1.6, 4.3, and 2.8 times that in a nearby parallel river without tanning wastewater input (the new Mang River, NMR), respectively. The denitrification N2 emission rates (0.0015 nmol N · g-1 h-1) of OMR riparian sediments were significantly reduced by 2.5 times compared with those from the NMR (p < 0.05), but the N2O emission rates (0.31 nmol N · g-1 h-1) were significantly increased (4.1 times, p < 0.05). Although the dominant nitrogen-transforming bacteria phylum was Proteobacteria in the riparian sediments of both rivers, 11 nitrogen-transforming bacteria genera in the OMR were found to be significantly enriched; five of these were related to pollutant degradation based on linear discriminant analysis (LDA >3). The average activity of the electron transport system in the OMR was 6.3 times lower than that of the NMR (p < 0.05). Among pollution factors, heavy metal complex pollution was the dominant factor driving variations in N2O emissions, microbial community structure, and electron transport system activity. These results provide a new understanding and reference for the treatment of tanning wastewater-receiving rivers.

Selective Isolation and Identification of Microorganisms with Dual Capabilities: Leather Biodegradation and Heavy Metal Resistance for Industrial Applications

Tanning, crucial for leather production, relies heavily on chromium yet poses risks due to chromium's oxidative conversion, leading to significant wastewater and solid waste generation. Physico-chemical methods are typically used for heavy metal removal, but they have drawbacks, prompting interest in eco-friendly biological remediation techniques like biosorption, bioaccumulation, and biotransformation. The EU Directive (2018/850) mandates alternatives to landfilling or incineration for industrial textile waste management, highlighting the importance of environmentally conscious practices for leather products' end-of-life management, with composting being the most researched and viable option. This study aimed to isolate microorganisms from tannery wastewater and identify those responsible for different types of tanned leather biodegradation. Bacterial shifts during leather biodegradation were observed using a leather biodegradation assay (ISO 20136) with tannery and municipal wastewater as the inoculum. Over 10,000 bacterial species were identified in all analysed samples, with 7 bacterial strains isolated from tannery wastewaters. Identification of bacterial genera like Acinetobacter, Brevundimonas, and Mycolicibacterium provides insights into potential microbial candidates for enhancing leather biodegradability, wastewater treatment, and heavy metal bioremediation in industrial applications.

New plant polyphenol-derived tannic acid-based chromium-free tanning agent for sustainable and clean leather production

This study aimed to prepare a new bio-based chromium-free tanning agent. The green epoxide monocase ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EGDE) was grafted with tannic acid (TA) derived from natural plant using the one-pot method to synthesize new plant polyphenol-derived tannic acid-based chromium-free tanning agents (TA-EGDE) with abundant terminal epoxides. FTIR, 1H NMR, XPS, GPC, SEM, and other analytical techniques were used to characterize tanning agents. These consequences manifested that EGDE was successfully grafted with the phenol hydroxyl group of TA. The epoxide value of TA-EGDE showed a tendency to increase and then decrease with increasing EGDE dosage, and the epoxide value of TA-EGDE-2 attained a maximum of 0.262 mol/100 g. GPC analysis showed that the formula weight of the prepared TA-EGDE was partially distributed above 5000 Da. The tanning experiment demonstrated that the shrinkage temperatures (Ts) of the TA-EGDE-tanned leathers were all higher than 81.5 °C. Compared with the traditional commercial chromium-free tanning agent (F-90, TWS), TA-EGDE-tanned leathers exhibited higher Ts and better mechanical properties. The TA-EGDE prepared in this study not only has ecological environmental protection but also provides finished leather with good moisture, heat resistance, and mechanical properties.

A novel complex coupling agent for enhancing the compatibility between collagen fiber and natural rubber: A utilization strategy for leather wastes

Leather shavings are generated as solid waste in the leather industry and may cause environmental pollution if not disposed judiciously. These solid wastes, primarily composed of collagen fibers (CFs), can be recycled as biomass composites. However, CFs are incompatible with natural rubber (NR) due to its hydrophilicity. Conventionally, the compatibility has been improved by utilizing silane coupling agents (SCAs) along with a large number of organic solvents, which further contribute to environmental pollution. In this study, we developed a novel complex coupling agent (CCA) to enhance the compatibility between CF and NR. The CCA was synthesized through a coordination reaction between Cr(III) and α-methacrylic acid (MAA). Cr(III) in the coupling agent coordinates with the active groups in CFs, while the unsaturated double bonds in MAA facilitate covalent crosslinking between the CCA and NR, improving compatibility. The coordination bonding between CF and NR exhibits strong interfacial interaction, endowing the composites with desirable mechanical properties. Moreover, the proposed method is an economical and green approach that can be used to synthesize CF-based composites without requiring organic solvents. Herein, a strategy promoted sustainable development in the leather industry has been established.

A supramolecular approach for converting renewable biomass into functional materials

The rational transformation and utilization of biomass have attracted increasing attention because of its high importance in sustainable development and green economy. In this study, we used a supramolecular approach to convert biomass into functional materials. Six biomass raw materials with distinct chemical structures and physical properties were copolymerized with thioctic acid (TA) to afford poly[TA-biomass]s. The solvent-free copolymerization leads to the convenient and quantitative fabrication of biomass-based versatile materials. The non-covalent bonding and reversible solid-liquid transitions in poly[TA-biomass]s endow them with diversified features, including thermal processability, 3D printing, wet and dry adhesion, recyclability, impact resistance, and antimicrobial activity. Benefiting from their good biocompatibility and nontoxicity, these biomass-based materials are promising candidates for biological applications.

A cleaner leather chemical from feather waste for reducing ammonia-nitrogen pollution and improving biological treatment efficiency of tannery wastewater

Feather waste is produced in millions of tons globally every year, resulting in a waste of biomass resources and even environmental pollution. A sustainable strategy for utilizing feather waste was proposed by preparing a clean deliming agent for ammonia-nitrogen (NH₃-N) reduction in leather manufacture and biological treatment efficiency improvement of tannery wastewater. Briefly, chicken feather wastes were deeply hydrolyzed with sulfuric acid, and the optimized keratin hydrolysate (KH_opt) that contained 53.6% crude protein and 41.2% amino acids, such as glutamic acid, serine, proline, leucine, phenylalanine, glycine, valine, and arginine, was obtained and used to delime limed cattle hides. The appropriate ratio of amino acids in KH_opt gave KH_opt a great pH-buffering capacity and maintained a stable float pH of approximately 9 throughout the deliming process. The isoelectric points of KH_opt (3.8) and the limed hide (6.3) were both lower than the float pH, thereby bringing about an electrostatic repulsion between the KH_opt and the hide surface, which is helpful for KH_opt to penetrate and deswell the limed hide rapidly. Moreover, the KH_opt deliming effectively removed calcium from the limed hide and achieved leather comparable to conventional leather for commercial applications. KH_opt reduced the NH₃-N concentrations of deliming effluent and tannery wastewater by 91.1% and 80.6%, respectively, compared with the conventional deliming agent (ammonium sulfate), and dramatically increased the biological treatment efficiency of tannery wastewater. The results showed that efficient and high-value use of feather waste was made by preparing KH_opt for sustainable leather manufacturing.

Hydrothermal conversion of biomass to fuels, chemicals and materials: A review holistically connecting product properties and marketable applications

Biomass is a renewable and carbon-neutral resource with good features for producing biofuels, biochemicals, and biomaterials. Among the different technologies developed to date to convert biomass into such commodities, hydrothermal conversion (HC) is a very appealing and sustainable option, affording marketable gaseous (primarily containing H₂, CO, CH₄, and CO₂), liquid (biofuels, aqueous phase carbohydrates, and inorganics), and solid products (energy-dense biofuels (up to 30 MJ/kg) with excellent functionality and strength). Given these prospects, this publication first-time puts together essential information on the HC of lignocellulosic and algal biomasses covering all the steps involved. Particularly, this work reports and comments on the most important properties (e.g., physiochemical and fuel properties) of all these products from a holistic and practical perspective. It also gathers vital information addressing selecting and using different downstream/upgrading processes to convert HC reaction products into marketable biofuels (HHV up to 46 MJ/kg), biochemicals (yield >90 %), and biomaterials (great functionality and surface area up to 3600 m²/g). As a result of this practical vision, this work not only comments on and summarizes the most important properties of these products but also analyzes and discusses present and future applications, establishing an invaluable link between product properties and market needs to push HC technologies transition from the laboratory to the industry. Such a practical and pioneering approach paves the way for the future development, commercialization and industrialization of HC technologies to develop holistic and zero-waste biorefinery processes.