The Association of Finger Growth Plate Injury History and Speed Climbing in Youth Competition Climbers

Rehabilitation of Annular Pulley Injuries of the Fingers in Climbers: A Clinical Commentary

ABSTRACT

The annular pulley ligaments of the fingers are one of the most injured anatomical structures in those who participate in climbing. Despite this, there is a paucity of guidance clearly describing the rehabilitation and physical preparation parameters to return to sport following such injuries. The foundation of effective rehabilitation is the judicious application of progressive loading to increase the morphological and material properties of the damaged tissues. We maintain the optimal management of the climbing athlete after a traumatic annular flexor pulley system rupture should be grounded in the principles of strength and conditioning.

Primary Periphyseal Stress Injuries of the Fingers in Adolescent Climbers: A Critical Review

ABSTRACT

The worldwide rise in popularity of climbing and development of climbing as a competitive sport is reflected by its debut at the 2021 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo. Digital primary periphyseal stress injuries in adolescent climbers may pose a significant risk to long-term skeletal health. The aim of this article is to critically review research on the diagnosis and management of primary periphyseal stress injuries of the fingers in adolescent climbers. We adopted a systematic approach to searching for relevant literature. Articles were identified after searches of the following electronic databases: Discover, Academic Search Complete, PubMed, Embase, SPORTDiscus, and ScienceDirect. Conclusive evidence suggests digital primary periphyseal stress injuries are a consequence of repetitive microtrauma. Pain reported by adolescent climbers on the dorsal aspect of the proximal interphalangeal joint should be investigated promptly to avoid serious negative consequences. Clinicians should be aware of the efficacy of imaging techniques to inform a clinical diagnosis. A conservative management approach is preferred but in rare cases surgical intervention may be necessary. A diagnostic and therapeutic algorithm for digital primary periphyseal stress injuries is presented.

Head Injuries in Rock Climbing: A Scoping Review

Rock climbing was recognized as a sport at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Despite its increasing participation, there is no knowledge synthesis of head injuries (HIs), defined as any injury to the head, associated with climbing, making it challenging for clinicians to provide evidence-based care. Our aim was to synthesize HI literature within rock climbing and identify knowledge gaps. Six databases (Medline, Embase, Sports Medicine & Education Index, SPORTDiscus, CINAHL, and Cochrane) were searched. Two reviewers screened 345 studies and 31 studies were selected for data abstraction. We found the quality of individual studies mainly "fair" to "good." Both HI and traumatic brain injury (TBI) had inconsistent definitions and categorization. The HIs represented between 0 to 36% of reported climbing injuries. Between 11 to 100% of HIs were TBIs, defined as an HI with permanent or temporary neurological sequelae. The most common causes of HIs were outdoor falls and falling objects. Climbing-specific factors associated with the causes were infrequently examined in the literature. Data sources of safety practices were incomplete. Overall, there was a lack of literature examining HIs, mechanisms of injury, and safety practices associated with climbing. To improve the tracking of HIs in climbing, we suggest the use of consistent reporting standards and the creation of a climbing injury surveillance system.

Evaluation of a Diagnostic-Therapeutic Algorithm for Finger Epiphyseal Growth Plate Stress Injuries in Adolescent Climbers

BACKGROUND

Finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries are the most frequent sport-specific injuries in adolescent climbers. Definitive diagnostic and therapeutic guidelines are pending.

PURPOSE

To evaluate a diagnostic-therapeutic algorithm for finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries in adolescent climbers.

STUDY DESIGN

Case series; Level of evidence, 4.

METHODS

On the basis of previous work on diagnostics and treatment of finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries (EGPIs) in adolescent climbers, we developed a new algorithm for management of these injuries, which was implemented into our clinical work. During a 4-year period, we performed a prospective multicentered analysis of our patients treated according to the algorithm. Climbing-specific background was evaluated (training years, climbing level, training methods, etc); injuries were analyzed (Salter-Harris classification and UIAA MedCom score [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme]); and treatments and outcomes were recorded: union, time to return to climbing, VAS (visual analog scale), QuickDASH (shortened version of the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder, and Hand), and a climbing-specific outcome score.

RESULTS

Within the observation period, 27 patients with 37 independent EGPIs of the fingers were recorded (mean ± SD age, 14.7 ± 1.5 years; 19 male, 8 female; 66.7% competitive athletes). Regarding maturity at time of injury, the mean age at injury did not differ by sex. Average UIAA climbing level was 9.5 ± 0.8, with 6 ± 4.6 years of climbing or bouldering and 14 ± 9.1 hours of weekly climbing-specific training volume. Among the 37 injuries there were 7 epiphyseal strains, 2 Salter-Harris I fractures, and 28 Salter-Harris III fractures (UIAA 1, n = 7; UIAA 2, n = 30). Thirty-six injuries developed through repetitive stress, while 1 had an acute onset. Twenty-eight injuries were treated nonoperatively and 9 surgically. Osseous union was achieved in all cases, and there were no recurrences. The time between the start of treatment and the return to sport was 40.1 ± 65.2 days. The climbing-specific outcome score was excellent in 34 patients and good in 3. VAS decreased from 2.3 ± 0.6 to 0.1 ± 0.4 after treatment and QuickDASH from 48.1 ± 7.9 to 28.5 ± 3.3.

CONCLUSION

The proposed management algorithm led to osseous union in all cases. Effective treatment of EGPIs of the fingers may include nonsurgical or surgical intervention, depending on the time course and severity of the injury. Further awareness of EGPI is important to help prevent these injuries in the future.

Coaches' Attitudes Toward Campus Board Training in Adolescent Climbers in the United States

INTRODUCTION

Campus board training in adolescent climbers is controversial. Evidence, albeit limited, suggests this type of training may lead to the development of finger epiphyseal stress fractures. The purpose of the present study was to investigate coaches' attitudes toward campus board training in the United States.

METHODS

Surveys were sent to 116 coaches at gyms across the United States with affiliated adolescent climbing teams. Outcomes collected included demographic information, training time, campus board use prevalence, coaches' attitudes toward campus board use, and willingness to participate in future research.

RESULTS

Seventy-three coaches representing 3090 adolescent climbers completed the survey. Forty-six coaches (63%) reported using full weight (no foot contact) campus board training in some or all of their climbers. A variety of factors were cited by coaches when deciding which climbers should or should not use the campus board, including physical maturity, climbing ability, and age, among others.

CONCLUSIONS

Climbing coaches in the United States disagree on the use of campus board training in adolescent climbers. Some coaches avoid using this training modality entirely, whereas others believe certain climbers can use it safely. There is lack of consensus in determining who those certain climbers are.