Linking existing in vitro dermal absorption data to physicochemical properties: Contribution to the design of a weight-of-evidence approach for the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients with low dermal bioavailability

Safety Assessment of Nanomaterials in Cosmetics: Focus on Dermal and Hair Dyes Products

Nanomaterials use in cosmetics is markedly enhancing, so their exposure and toxicity are important parameters to consider for their risk assessment. This review article provides an overview of the active cosmetic ingredients used for cosmetic application, including dermal cosmetics and also hair dye cosmetics, as well as their safety assessment, enriched with a compilation of the safety assessment tests available to evaluate the different types of toxicity. In fact, despite the increase in research and the number of papers published in the field of nanotechnology, the related safety assessment is still insufficient. To elucidate the possible effects that nanosized particles can have on living systems, more studies reproducing similar conditions to what happens in vivo should be conducted, particularly considering the complex interactions of the biological systems and active cosmetic ingredients to achieve newer, safer, and more efficient nanomaterials. Toward this end, ecological issues and the toxicological pattern should also be a study target.

Concentration of Antioxidant Compounds from Calendula officinalis through Sustainable Supercritical Technologies, and Computational Study of Their Permeability in Skin for Cosmetic Use

The growing interest in the cosmetic industry in using compounds of natural and sustainable origin that are safe for humans is encouraging the development of processes that can satisfy these needs. Chlorogenic acid (CHA), caffeic acid (CAF) and ferulic acid (FA) are three compounds widely used within the cosmetic industry due to their functionalities as antioxidants, collagen modifiers or even as radiation protectors. In this work, two advanced separation techniques with supercritical CO2 are used to obtain these three compounds from Calendula officinalis, and these are then evaluated using a computational skin permeability model. This model is encompassed by the COSMO-RS model, the calculations of which make it possible to study the behaviour of the compounds in the epidermis. The results show that both CAF and FA are retained in the stratum corneum, while CHA manages to penetrate to the stratum spinosum. These compounds were concentrated by antisolvent fractionation with super-critical CO2 using a Response Surface Methodology to study the effect of pressure and CO2 flow rate. CHA, CAF and FA were completely retained in the precipitation vessel, with concentrations between 40% and 70% greater than in the original extract. The conditions predicted that the optimal overall yield and enrichment achieved would be 153 bar and 42 g/min.

Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products: Overview of Established Methods and New Approach Methodologies (NAMs)

Cosmetic products need to have a proven efficacy combined with a comprehensive toxicological assessment. Before the current Cosmetic regulation N°1223/2009, the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive has banned animal testing for cosmetic products and for cosmetic ingredients in 2004 and 2009, respectively. An increasing number of alternatives to animal testing has been developed and validated for safety and efficacy testing of cosmetic products and cosmetic ingredients. For example, 2D cell culture models derived from human skin can be used to evaluate anti-inflammatory properties, or to predict skin sensitization potential; 3D human skin equivalent models are used to evaluate skin irritation potential; and excised human skin is used as the gold standard for the evaluation of dermal absorption. The aim of this manuscript is to give an overview of the main in vitro and ex vivo alternative models used in the safety testing of cosmetic products with a focus on regulatory requirements, genotoxicity potential, skin sensitization potential, skin and eye irritation, endocrine properties, and dermal absorption. Advantages and limitations of each model in safety testing of cosmetic products are discussed and novel technologies capable of addressing these limitations are presented.

In vitro dermal absorption of metiram using human skin preparations

Metiram is a polymeric plant protection fungicidal product. Since farm workers can potentially be exposed to the used solo-formulation, polyram, its dermal penetration is important for the assessment of its safety. Previous dermal penetration studies indicated a low penetration of metiram (≤ 1% of the applied dose), when applied in polyram or in the almost identical technical concentrate, metiram TK. Here, we present an in vitro human skin absorption study conducted according to OECD guideline 428. In this study, synthesized polymeric 14C-radiolabelled metiram in polymeric "unlabeled" solo-formulation, polyram, was used. Single doses of radioactive metiram were applied to human skin preparations in vitro (4 donors per dose group, 2 replicates each) for 8 h, under semi-occluded conditions in Franz-like diffusion cells, using a flow-through diffusion system. Under these test conditions, dermal absorption of the low dose, which represents spray dilution concentrations, was 0.34 ± 0.48% of applied dose; and dermal absorption of the high dose (formulation concentrate) was negligible (<0.0015 % of the applied dose). These results confirm the low dermal absorption of polymeric metiram and indicate that slight differences in applied formulations have minimal impact on its penetration properties.

Percutaneous permeability of 1-phenoxy-2-propanol, a preservative in cosmetics

1-Phenoxy-2-propanol (PP) is used as a preservative in cosmetics. PP is currently permitted to be used to up to 1% in cosmetic formulations in Korea and Europe. For risk assessment, percutaneous absorption is a crucial factor, but dermal absorption of PP has not yet been reported. In this study, Franz diffusion method was used to determine the percutaneous penetration of PP using the dorsal skin of rats. Each formulation of shampoo or cream, 113.6 mg/cm², was applied to a donor compartment of Franz diffusion cell for 24 h. Receptor fluid was collected at 0, 1, 2, 4, 8, 12, and 24 h following dermal application. Remaining formulation was removed with a cotton swab after last sampling. Using tape stripping method, stratum corneum was removed. PP in epidermis and dermis was extracted in PBS for 24 h. The concentration of PP from the swab, stratum corneum, and epidermis and dermis samples was determined using high performance liquid chromatography. Total percutaneous absorption rates of PP for shampoo and cream were 50.0 ± 6.0% and 33.0 ± 3.2%, respectively. In vitro skin permeability was calculated as 1,377.2 ± 240.1 mg/cm² for shampoo and 1,038.0 ± 72.2 mg/cm² for cream for 24 h.

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Loading Idebenone Ester with Pyroglutamic Acid: In Vitro Antioxidant Activity and In Vivo Topical Efficacy

Idebenone (IDE), a strong antioxidant widely investigated for the treatment of neurodegenerative diseases and skin disorders, shows low oral and topical bioavailability due to its unfavorable physico-chemical properties. In this work, to improve IDE topical effectiveness, we explored a two-steps approach: (1) we synthesized an IDE ester (IDEPCA) with pyroglutamic acid, a molecule whose hydrating effects are well known; (2) we loaded IDEPCA into solid lipid nanocarriers (SLN). We evaluated in vitro antioxidant and anti-glycation activity and in vivo hydrating effects after topical application in human volunteers from gel vehicles of IDEPCA SLN in comparison to IDE SLN. All SLN showed good technological properties (mean particle size < 25 nm, polydispersity index < 0.300, good stability). The oxygen radical absorbance capacity assay showed that IDEPCA SLN and IDE SLN had similar antioxidant activity while IDEPCA SLN were more effective in the in vitro NO scavenging assay. Both IDEPCA and IDE SLN showed the same effectiveness in inhibiting the formation of advanced glycation end products. In vivo experiments pointed out a better hydrating effect of IDEPCA SLN in comparison to IDE SLN. These results suggest that the investigated approach could be a promising strategy to obtain topical formulations with increased hydrating effects.

Safety Threshold Considerations for Sunscreen Systemic Exposure: A Simulation Study

Sunscreens are regulated as over-the-counter drugs in the United States. Some sunscreen ingredients are absorbed into the systemic circulation, which raises concerns about the safety of these drugs. There is limited information on the systemic exposure for most sunscreen ingredients. This report estimates the systemic absorption of two sunscreen active ingredients, oxybenzone and enzacamene, by developing a pharmacokinetic model from published sunscreen absorption data and compares the results with safety thresholds proposed by the US Food and Drug Administration and in the literature. Our analysis indicates that systemic absorption can be substantial, and evaluation of the systemic exposure of sunscreen ingredients is warranted to better assess any long-term risks of use.

Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a review

Resveratrol is now being increasingly used in cosmetology and dermatology. This polyphenolic phytoalexin present in large amounts in red grapes and berries has a number of scientifically proven health-promoting properties associated with a positive effect on the cardiovascular system, lowering the concentration of low-density lipoprotein, and the ability to inhibit the cyclooxygenases activity. Additionally, it has antiproliferative, anti-angiogenic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties. Its popularity in cosmetology and dermatology is primarily associated with proven ability to penetrate the skin barrier and antiaging activity. It has been shown that formulations with resveratrol can stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and contributing to the increase in the concentration of collagen III. Resveratrol has an affinity for the estrogen protein receptors (both ERα and ERβ), thereby contributing to the stimulation of collagen types I and II production. Moreover, resveratrol also has the antioxidant properties, thus can protect cells against oxidative damage associated with the effects of free radicals and UV radiation on the skin by reducing the expression of AP-1 and NF-kB factors and it slows down the process of photoaging of the skin. This study reviews literature on the skin care properties of resveratrol and its dermal bioavailability, metabolism, and dermal safety of application.

In Vitro Evaluation of Sunscreen Safety: Effects of the Vehicle and Repeated Applications on Skin Permeation from Topical Formulations

The evaluation of UV-filter in vitro percutaneous absorption allows the estimation of the systemic exposure dose (SED) and the margin of safety (MoS) of sunscreen products. As both the vehicle and pattern of application may affect sunscreen safety and efficacy, we evaluated in vitro release and skin permeation of two widely used UV-filters, octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM) from topical formulations with different features (oil in water (O/W) emulsions with different viscosity, water in oil (W/O) emulsion, oils with different lipophilicity). To mimic in-use conditions, we carried out experiments repeating sunscreen application on the skin surface for three consecutive days. BMBM release from all these vehicles was very low, thus leading to poor skin permeation. The vehicle composition significantly affected OMC release and skin permeation, and slight increases of OMC permeation were observed after repeated applications. From skin permeation data, SED and MoS values of BMBM and OMC were calculated for all the investigated formulations after a single application and repeated applications. While MoS values of BMBM were always well beyond the accepted safety limit, the safety of sunscreen formulations containing OMC may depend on the vehicle composition and the application pattern.

Chemometric Evaluation of THz Spectral Similarity for the Selection of Early Drug Candidates

In this paper we discuss the link between the domain of physical parameters - molecular descriptors of a drug, and terahertz (THz) spectra. We measured the derivatives of the well-known anti-inflammatory drug Piroxicam using THz spectroscopy and employed Principal Component Analysis to build similarity maps in the molecular descriptor and spectral domains. We observed, that the spatial neighborhood on the molecular descriptors map is highly correlated with the spectral neighbourhood within a group of structurally-similar molecules. We built a Partial Least Squares (PLS) predictive model to quantify the relationship between the spectra and the melting point, which can guide the selection of early drug candidates.

Alternative Methods to Animal Testing for the Safety Evaluation of Cosmetic Ingredients: An Overview

The safety of cosmetics sold in Europe is based on the safety evaluation of each individual ingredient conducted by those responsible for putting the product on the market. However, those substances for which some concern exists with respect to human health (e.g., colorants, preservatives, UV-filters, nanomaterials) are evaluated at the European Commission level by a scientific committee, currently called the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). According to the Cosmetics Regulation (European Commission, 2009), it is prohibited in the European Union (EU) to market cosmetic products and ingredients that have been tested on animals. However, the results of studies performed before the ban continue to be accepted. In the current study, we evaluated the use of in vitro methods in the dossiers submitted to the SCCS in the period between 2013 and 2016 based on the published reports issued by the scientific committee, which provides a scientific opinion on these dossiers. The results of this evaluation were compared with those of an evaluation conducted four years previously. We found that, despite a slight increase in the number of studies performed in vitro, the majority of studies submitted to the SCCS is still done principally in vivo and correspond to studies performed before the ban.