Development of a cream from a self-emulsifying base and moisturizing actives

Comparison of sensory and rheological properties of green cosmetic creams prepared on different natural, ECOCERT and BDIH certificated self-emulsifying bases

The objective of this paper was to evaluate and compare the rheological and sensory properties of six natural cosmetic creams that use ECOCERT certificated emulsifying bases: Beautyderm, Dub Base Expert, Simulgreen™ 18-2, Olivem 1000, Montanov L and Emulgin Succro against two synthetics: Granthix APP and Lanette W.

The use of emulsifying bases in formulas helps to stabilize the product and improve its rheological and sensory attributes. In this study, the physical and chemical properties of several prepared cosmetic creams were determined. Apparent viscosity and thixotropy were evaluated by viscosimeter, while spreadability was ascertained by extensometer. Moreover, a group of 10 trained members evaluated the sensory properties of the formulas. The obtained formulas based upon natural emulsifiers are characterized by very good physical and chemical properties, high stabilization and good usage quality. The results were confirmed by sensory analysis. The cosmetic creams made with synthetic emulsifying bases were rated the worst by the study participants, which correlated with the physical tests.

Rheological and physical parameters correlations in formulations with pinhão derivatives stability study: building up an analytical route

This study focuses on the correlation investigation between rheological and physical parameters and how it can contribute to optimize the topical formulations development. A gel and an emulgel containing pinhão derivatives, and their respective controls, were analyzed along six months of storage. A flowchart of analyses was proposed to use in topical formulation development when a benchmark is the goal or when it is necessary to change some raw material. All formulations were stable over the storage time and the formulations containing pinhão starch and coat extract presented similar properties to those of the control formulations. Correlations between rheological and physical data, as moisture content and particle size, were determined using Pearson's correlation coefficient. A moderate positive correlation was verified between particle size distribution and flow index, and a strong positive correlation between particle size and flow index. It was also found that the higher the moisture content, the higher the consistency index, quality factor, and apparent viscosity. The correlation analyses applied in this study contributed to build up an analytical route for topical formulation development, saving time and costs.

Formulation and in vitro release evaluation of newly synthesized palm kernel oil esters-based nanoemulsion delivery system for 30% ethanolic dried extract derived from local Phyllanthus urinaria for skin antiaging

BACKGROUND

Recently there has been a remarkable surge of interest about natural products and their applications in the cosmetic industry. Topical delivery of antioxidants from natural sources is one of the approaches used to reverse signs of skin aging. The aim of this research was to develop a nanoemulsion cream for topical delivery of 30% ethanolic extract derived from local Phyllanthus urinaria (P. urinaria) for skin antiaging.

METHODS

Palm kernel oil esters (PKOEs)-based nanoemulsions were loaded with P. urinaria extract using a spontaneous method and characterized with respect to particle size, zeta potential, and rheological properties. The release profile of the extract was evaluated using in vitro Franz diffusion cells from an artificial membrane and the antioxidant activity of the extract released was evaluated using the 2, 2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method.

RESULTS

Formulation F12 consisted of wt/wt, 0.05% P. urinaria extract, 1% cetyl alcohol, 0.5% glyceryl monostearate, 12% PKOEs, and 27% Tween 80/Span 80 (9/1) with a hydrophilic lipophilic balance of 13.9, and a 59.5% phosphate buffer system at pH 7.4. Formulation F36 was comprised of 0.05% P. urinaria extract, 1% cetyl alcohol, 1% glyceryl monostearate, 14% PKOEs, 28% Tween 80/Span 80 (9/1) with a hydrophilic lipophilic balance of 13.9, and 56% phosphate buffer system at pH 7.4 with shear thinning and thixotropy. The droplet size of F12 and F36 was 30.74 nm and 35.71 nm, respectively, and their nanosizes were confirmed by transmission electron microscopy images. Thereafter, 51.30% and 51.02% of the loaded extract was released from F12 and F36 through an artificial cellulose membrane, scavenging 29.89% and 30.05% of DPPH radical activity, respectively.

CONCLUSION

The P. urinaria extract was successfully incorporated into a PKOEs-based nanoemulsion delivery system. In vitro release of the extract from the formulations showed DPPH radical scavenging activity. These formulations can neutralize reactive oxygen species and counteract oxidative injury induced by ultraviolet radiation and thereby ameliorate skin aging.

Novel jojoba oil-based emulsion gel formulations for clotrimazole delivery

Jojoba oil-based emulgel formulations were prepared using different concentrations of various gelling agents, such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) and Carbopol 934 P and combination of both. The prepared emulgels were physically evaluated for their stability after temperature cycle test, centrifugation and long-term shelf storage for 1 year at room temperature. The in vitro release at 37 °C was studied to define the effect of the concentration and type of the gelling agent. A comparison between the formulated emulgels and two commercially available products, Candistan® and Canesten® creams, was carried out to judge their efficacy and stability. The prepared emulgels exhibited non-Newtonian shear thinning behavior with little or no thixotropy. Four emulgels showed excellent stability as they demonstrated consistent rheological model under different treatment conditions. The in vitro release test showed variation in the extent of percent drug released. The drug release from the commercial preparation was lower than some of the prepared emulgel formulae. One formula containing combination of the two gelling agents (HPMC and Carbopol 934 P), showed excellent stability and high extent of clotrimazole release was microbiologically evaluated against Candida albicans using cylinder and plate method. The selected formula showed superior antimycotic activity compared to the commercially available formulation. Further in vivo animal studies for the obtained stable formula is recommended.

Optimized formulation for topical administration of clotrimazole using Pemulen polymeric emulsifier

BACKGROUND

Emulgel topical formulation is a vehicle of potential for topical delivery of antifungal drugs.

METHODS

The imidazole derivative antifungal drug, clotrimazole (CZ), was formulated into emulgels using two grades of hydrophobically modified co-polymers of acrylic acid, namely Pemulen TR1 and TR2. The prepared emulgels were evaluated for their rheological properties, short- and long-term stability, in vitro release at 37°C. Microbiological evaluation of the formula showed that optimum stability and release was carried out to measure its antifungal activity.

RESULTS

All formulae showed non-Newtonian shear thinning behavior with little thixotropy or antithixotropy. Five of the prepared formulae showed good physical stability under different treatment conditions. Isopropyl myristate (IPM) emulgels exhibited higher rate of CZ release than either jojoba oil (JB) or liquid paraffin-based emulgels. A selected formula containing JB together with a combination of Pemulen TR1 and TR2 showed excellent stability as well as high rate of CZ release. Microbiological evaluation of the selected formula containing similar amount of CZ revealed 1.2-folds increase in the antifungal activity compared to commercially available formulation.

CONCLUSION

Emulgel dosage form based on Pemulen polymeric emulsifier and JB is a promising vehicle for topical delivery of CZ and further in vivo animal studies are recommended.

Physicochemical and pharmacokinetic characterization of a spray-dried cefpodoxime proxetil nanosuspension

Cefpodoxime proxetil (CP) is a prodrug, the third generation cephem-type broad-spectrum antibiotic administered orally. However, CP was found to be a poorly water-soluble drug with low bioavailability when orally administered. In the present investigation, the spray-dried cefpodoxime proxetil nanosuspension (SDN) was prepared. The physicochemical properties were characterized by rheological evaluation, particle size measurement and its distribution, dynamics of reconstitution, in-vitro dissolution testing, surface morphology, surface area and pore size measurements. The pharmacokinetic study of SDN, in comparison to a marketed cefpodoxime proxetil for oral suspension (MS), was also performed in rabbits after a single oral dose. It was found that SDN exhibited a significant decrease in t(max), a 1.60-fold higher area under curve (AUC) and 2.33-fold higher maximum plasma concentration (C(max)) than MS.

Physical and physicochemical stability evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis

Peel off facial masks, based on polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), are formulations that, after application and drying, form an occlusive film over the face. After removing, they provide cleanness, tensor and moisturizing effects, removing dead cells, residues and other materials deposited on the stratum corneous. The soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and free isoflavonoids in high concentrations, when compared to the unfermented extract, providing benefits to the cosmetic formulations like anti-aging effect, moisture, tensor action and emollience. The cosmetic bases of peel off facial masks, added with 5.0% w/w of fermented soybean extract, were submitted to Preliminary and Accelerated Stability Studies. Eight (8) preparations were evaluated in several conditions of temperature (-10.0, 5.0, 22.0 and 45.0 ºC) and time (maximum of 15 days), comparing the results with the initial condition (48 h after preparation). The variables observed were: organoleptic characteristics, pH and appearing viscosity value and film drying time. The preparation containing 17.0% w/w of PVA and 0.5% w/w of guar gum was selected between the eight preparations initially prepared, because it presented the best performance in the stability test, being recommended storage at low temperatures (5.0 ºC).

Stability of cosmetic formulations containing esters of Vitamins E and A: Chemical and physical aspects

Cosmetic stability prediction relies on quantitative chemical determinations of active components after certain times and in different temperatures. However, physical stability, an important parameter in skin care products is not considered in these conditions. This study proposes the determination of cosmetic stability chemical and physical parameters validated by (HPLC) chromatography and rheological measurements, respectively, using a gel-cream containing retinyl palmitate and tocopheryl acetate as a model system. The predicted shelf life addresses both the physical and chemical aspects of the system. Results emphasize the importance of studying both parameters by showing the relation of components degradation and physical stability. Moreover, they contribute to an improved understanding of physical and chemical stability aspects of cosmetic formulations, mainly if they contain Vitamins A and E derivatives.

Assays of physical stability and antioxidant activity of a topical formulation added with different plant extracts

In the present investigation the changes on physical stability (pH, viscosity, flow index and tixotropy) of topical formulations were evaluated following inclusion of different plant extracts containing flavonoids. Also, the antioxidant effect of these plant extracts alone and after addition in the formulation was evaluated using chemiluminescence and the stable free radical 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH(.-)) assays, as well as the inhibition of lipid peroxidation. Formulation added with dl-alpha-tocopherol was used to compare the physical stability and antioxidant activity. Formulations with plant extracts showed pseudoplastic behavior with decreasing on viscosity and tixotropy. The Glycyrrhiza glabra (GG) and Ginkgo biloba (GB) extracts alone and the formulations containing these extracts showed great antioxidant and free radical scavenging activities while the other extracts studied (mixture of Glycyrrhiza glabra, Symphytum officinale L and Arctium majus root, Nelumbium speciosum and soybean) showed lower activity. The results suggest that GG and GB extracts may be used in topical formulations in order to protect skin against damage caused by free radical and reactive oxygen species.