High-performance liquid chromatographic method for the comparison of the photostability of five sunscreen agents

The Influence of Short-Wave and Long-Wave Radiation Spectrum on the Photostability of Sunscreens

BACKGROUND

Sunscreen products aim to help protect the skin against UV radiation and consequently reduce the risk of early skin ageing and skin cancer. However, it is well known that some sunscreen ingredients are not photostable, but this usually refers to irradiation with UV light. Moreover, it has to be mentioned that a relative cumulative erythema effectiveness compliant light source is used for the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) testing. Here, UV simulators equipped with a xenon arc lamp use filters such as WG320 and UG11 (thickness 1 mm) to minimize infrared (IR) radiation and wavelength below 300 nm. However, under practical conditions, the sunscreen product is not only exposed to UVA/B light, but also to visible light (VIS) and IR light. In fact, the spectrum of solar radiation is composed of approximately 7% UV, 39% VIS and 54% IR.

AIMS

To investigate the influence of short-wave and long-wave radiation on the photostability of sunscreens.

METHODS

Irradiation was performed with the Suntest CPS+ that is considered to closely imitate solar radiation. The filter UG11 (thickness 1 mm), which absorbs much of the VIS and IR light, and the glass filter WG320 (thickness 2 mm), which effectively absorbs radiation of wavelengths less than 300 nm, were used in the Suntest CPS+ both individually and in combination and were inserted between the light source and the samples. The following transmission measurements were carried out with Labsphere's UV-2000s device. Here, the effectiveness (percentage change of SPF before irradiation to SPF after irradiation) as a measure of the photostability was calculated.

RESULTS

As expected after total solar spectrum irradiation, the effectiveness in all tested sunscreens is lower compared to relative cumulative erythema effectiveness light used for in vitro testing of SPF. In the reference sunscreen formula S2 as well as in the two different sunscreen products, especially long-wave radiation (>400 nm) had an effect on photostability, whereas short-wave radiation had only a minor impact. In contrast, in the BASF sun care gel line only short-wave radiation below 300 nm had an effect on photostability, and blocking VIS and IR light had no effect at all.

CONCLUSION

Based on these data, we can conclude that short waves and/or VIS + IR light have an influence on the photostability of sunscreens.

Effects of solvent and micellar encapsulation on the photostability of avobenzone

Avobenzone, the only UVA-absorbing molecule approved for use in sunscreens by the FDA, degrades to its diketone structure under UV light. We found that this photoisomerization is effectively prevented when avobenzone is sequestered in micelles.

Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane

A comprehensive profile on Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, one of the most commonly used ultraviolet (UV) filters in topical sunscreen products, is prepared. This UV filter, often referred to as Avobenzone, has its main absorbance in the UVA I region of the spectrum and is susceptible to photodegradation. The profile contains the following sections: general information, use and mechanism of action, method of preparation, physical characteristics, methods of analysis, stability, and toxicity. The physical characteristics section includes the melting range, differential scanning calorimetry, partition coefficient, ionization constant, solubility, and UV, infrared, nuclear magnetic resonance ((1)H NMR and (13)C NMR) and mass spectrometry and X-ray powder diffractometry. The method of analysis section in addition to compendial identification and purity and assay methods includes thin-layer gas and high-performance liquid chromatography. The photostability and photostabilization of Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, in addition to its toxicity, are also documented.

Evaluation of fungal- and photo-degradation as potential treatments for the removal of sunscreens BP3 and BP1

Photodecomposition might be regarded as one of the most important abiotic factors affecting the fate of UV absorbing compounds in the environment and photocatalysis has been suggested as an effective method to degrade organic pollutants. However, UV filters transformation appears to be a complex process, barely addressed to date. The white rot fungus Trametes versicolor is considered as a promising alternative to conventional aerobic bacterial degradation, as it is able to metabolise a wide range of xenobiotics. This study focused on both degradation processes of two widely used UV filters, benzophenone-3 (BP3) and benzophenone-1 (BP1). Fungal treatment resulted in the degradation of more than 99% for both sunscreens in less than 24 h, whereas photodegradation was very inefficient, especially for BP3, which remained unaltered upon 24 h of simulated sunlight irradiation. Analysis of metabolic compounds generated showed BP1 as a minor by-product of BP3 degradation by T. versicolor while the main intermediate metabolites were glycoconjugate derivatives. BP1 and BP3 showed a weak, but significant estrogenic activity (EC50 values of 0.058 mg/L and 12.5 mg/L, respectively) when tested by recombinant yeast assay (RYA), being BP1 200-folds more estrogenic than BP3. Estrogenic activity was eliminated during T. versicolor degradation of both compounds, showing that none of the resulting metabolites possessed significant estrogenic activity at the concentrations produced. These results demonstrate the suitability of this method to degrade both sunscreen agents and to eliminate estrogenic activity.

Are cosmetic products which include an SPF appropriate for daily use?

The goal of this study is to investigate commercially available cosmetics (foundations, skin care creams) which also claim to include a sun protection factor (SPF). Are these products, which are not considered sunscreen products, helpful or could they be harmful? Using an in vitro method, we tested the effectiveness of 35 commercially available products against UVB and UVA radiation. For each product, our testing focused on determining the following four values in terms of current legal recommendations: SPF, UVA protection factor (PF-UVA), UVB/UVA ratio and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). We also tested each product's level of photostability. Effectively, when considering instructions for use (skincare products are applied once, in the morning) any product displaying an SPF must be particularly photostable, since its labeling does not indicate reapplication. In contrast, the packaging on sunscreen products clearly indicates the necessity of frequent reapplication. Out of the 35 products we tested, seven do not comply with legislation regarding sunscreen products. This non-compliance translates into insufficient protection against UVA radiation. The products sold in pharmacies did comply. In terms of photostability, only eight products out of the original 35 proved to be sufficiently photostable. It would seem inappropriate to use filters in the formulas of non-sunscreen cosmetics.

Validation of HPLC method for quantitative determination of Tinosorb S and three other sunscreens in a high protection cosmetic product

A chromatographic method (high performance liquid chromatography) with a diode array detector was developed for simultaneous assay of Tinosorb S (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) with three other sunscreen agents [benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate] in high protection sunscreen. Separations were performed on a RP-18 Nucleodur Gravity column (150 x 4.6 mm, 5 mum) eluted with a ternary gradient mixture constituted of tetrahydrofuran, acetonitrile and an aqueous solution of acetic acid. The quantitative analysis was achieved with internal calibration performed with octyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoate (PABA) at 330 nm. In accordance with the analytical references (SFSTP, ICH, ISO...), the accuracy of the method was evaluated using a statistical approach of the validation parameters (specificity, response function, linearity, precision and trueness). For each studied ultraviolet filter, an accuracy profile was determined on a predicted range. These profiles show a graphical representation of the recovery percentage and confidence limits centred on 100%. The method is validated and can be used for analysis in cosmetic sunscreen products.

Photoprotective activity of propolis

The purpose of this study was to determine the photoprotective properties of propolis. The sun protection factor (SPF) of ethanol extract of propolis was evaluated by an in vitro method, using homosalate as control. This determination is based on the physical determination of the reduction of the energy in the UV range, through a film of product which has previously been spread on an adequate substrate. About 15 mg of O/W emulsion containing propolis at various concentrations were applied on roughened Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates and the transmission measurements were carried out using a spectrophotometer equipped with integrating sphere. The results may justify their use as a natural sunscreen agent.

Solid-phase extraction and reverse-phase HPLC: application to study the urinary excretion pattern of benzophenone-3 and its metabolite 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone in human urine

BACKGROUND

Benzophenone-3 (BZ-3) is a common ultraviolet (UV) absorbing compound in sunscreens. It is the most bioavailable species of all UV-absorbing compounds after topical application and can be found in plasma and urine.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to develop a reverse-phase high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for determining the amounts BZ-3 and its metabolite 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (DHB) in human urine. The method had to be suitable for handling a large number of samples. It also had to be rapid and simple, but still sensitive, accurate and reproducible. The assay was applied to study the urinary excretion pattern after repeated whole-body applications of a commercial sunscreen, containing 4% BZ-3, to 25 healthy volunteers.

METHODS

Each sample was analyzed with regard to both conjugated/non-conjugated BZ-3 and conjugated/non-conjugated DHB, since both BZ-3 and DHB are extensively conjugated in the body. Solid-phase extraction (SPE) with C8 columns was followed by reverse-phase HPLC. For separation a Genesis C18 column was used with an acethonitrile-water mobile phase and the UV-detector was set at 287 nm.

RESULTS

The assay was linear r(2) > 0.99, with detection limits for BZ-3 and DHB of 0.01 micromol L(-1) and 0.16 micromol L(-1) respectively. Relative standard deviation (RSD) was less than 10% for BZ-3 and less than 13% for DHB. The excretion pattern varied among the human volunteers; we discerned different patterns among the individuals.

CONCLUSIONS

The reverse-phase HPLC assay and extraction procedures developed are suitable for use when a large number of samples need to be analyzed and the method fulfilled our objectives. The differences in excretion pattern may be due to differences in enzyme activity but further studies, especially about genetic polymorphism, need to be performed to verify this finding.

Multiway Partial Least-Squares Coupled to Residual Trilinearization: A Genuine Multidimensional Tool for the Study of Third-Order Data. Simultaneous Analysis of Procaine and Its Metabolitep-Aminobenzoic Acid in Equine Serum

A new third-order multivariate calibration approach, based on the combination of multiway-partial least-squares with a separate procedure called residual trilinearization (N-PLS/RTL), is presented and applied to multicomponent analysis using third-order data. The proposed chemometric algorithm is able to predict analyte concentrations in the presence of unexpected sample components, which require strict adherence to the second-order advantage. Results for the determination of procaine and its metabolite p-aminobenzoic acid in equine serum are discussed, based on kinetic fluorescence excitation-emission four-way measurements and application of the newly developed multiway methodology. Since the analytes are also the reagent and product of the hydrolysis reaction followed by fast-scanning fluorescence spectroscopy, the classical approach based on parallel factor analysis is challenged by strong linear dependencies and multilinearity losses. In comparison, N-PLS/RTL appears an appealing genuine multiway alternative that avoids the latter complications, yielding analytical results that are statistically comparable to those rendered by related unfolded algorithms, which are also able to process four-way data. Prediction was made on validation samples with a qualitative composition similar to the calibration set and also on test samples containing unexpected equine serum components.

Study of the photostability of 18 sunscreens in creams by measuring the SPF in vitro

The target of this research was to evaluate the photostability of various sunscreen agents incorporated into an O/W emulsion. The concept of photostability is very important in the field of solar protection. The effectiveness of the anti-solar products is quantified using a universal indicator: the sun protection factor (SPF). This number which can be found on packaging can be given in two different ways: by methods in vivo (Colipa method) and in vitro. It is this last method which was adopted for this study. According to selected filter UVB (currently directive 76/768/EEC modified authorized 18 filters UVB), we can obtain more or less effective creams. We chose the irradiation of sun lotions formulated using the authorized filters, used with their maximum amount of employment, in a Suntest, with an irradiance of 650 W/m(2) throughout variable time. With interval of regular time, one carries out a measurement of SPF in order to establish for each filter the kinetics SPF=f(time). An indicator of stability (t(90)) is then given. In this way, we could classify the filters by order of increasing photostability.

Simultaneous determination of procaine and para-aminobenzoic acid by LC-MS/MS method

A sensitive high performance liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) method has been developed for simultaneous determination of procaine and its metabolite p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA). N-Acetylprocainamide (NAPA) was used as an internal standard for procaine and PABA analysis. This assay method has also been validated in terms of linearity, lower limit of detection, lower limit of quantitation, accuracy and precision as per ICH guidelines. Chromatography was carried out on an XTerra MS C(18) column and mass spectrometric analysis was performed using a Quattro Micro mass spectrometer working with electro-spray ionization (ESI) source in the positive ion mode. Enhanced selectivity was achieved using multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) functions, m/z 237-->100, m/z 138-->120, and m/z 278-->205 for procaine, PABA and NAPA, respectively. Retention times for PABA, procaine and NAPA were 4.0, 4.7 and 5.8min, respectively. Linearity for each calibration curve was observed across a range from 100nM to 5000nM for PABA, and from 10nM to 5000nM for procaine. The intra- and inter-day relative standard deviations (RSD) were <5%.

Simultaneous determination of benzophenone-type UV filters in water and soil by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry

A novel method has been developed to simultaneously determine and quantify seven organic UV filters employing liquid (solid)-liquid extraction, derivatization with N-methyl-N-(trimethylsilyl) trifluoroacetamide (MSTFA) and gas chromatography with mass spectrometric detection in various environmental matrices. The UV filters determined were: benzophenone (BP), benzhydrol (BH), 4-hydroxybenzophenone (HBP), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (HMB), 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (DHB), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (DHMB) and 2,3,4-trihydroxylbenzophenone (THB). Under optimal conditions, the analysis required 23 min and good linearity over the range of 10-2,500 ng/L in water and 100-25,000 ng/kg in soil for each UV filter obtained. The high recovery (62-114% and 60-125% for water and soil samples, respectively) and the low RSD values (less than 13.9 and 17.2% for water and soil samples, respectively) indicated the high performance of this method. The method detection limits (MDLs) were relatively low, ranging from 5 to 100 ng/L or kg and quantification limits ranged between 25 and 500 ng/L or kg for all test compounds. This validated method was applied in the analysis of seven BP-type UV filters collecting water and soil samples in Korea, between April and May 2003. The overall concentration of UV filters in the soil sample (500-18,380 ng/kg) was highly distributed in water sample (27-204 ng/L). The established method was successfully applied to monitor the residue measurement of the BP-type UV filters in environmental water and soil samples.

Evaluation of the photostability of different UV filter combinations in a sunscreen

Development of photostable sunscreens is extremely important to preserve the UV protective capacity and to prevent the reactive intermediates of photounstable filter substances behaving as photo-oxidants when coming into direct contact with the skin. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the photostability of four different UV filter combinations in a sunscreen by using HPLC analysis and spectrophotometry. The formulations that were investigated included four different UV filter combinations often used in SPF 15 sunscreens. The UV filter combinations were: octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and octyl salicylate (OS) (formulation 1); OMC, avobenzone (AVB) and 4-methylbenzilidene camphor (MBC) (formulation 2); OMC, BP-3 and octocrylene (OC) (formulation 3); OMC, AVB and OC (formulation 4). In the photostability studies, 40 mg of each formulation were spread onto a glass plate and left to dry before exposure to different UVA/UVB irradiation. Exposed samples were then immersed in isopropanol and the dried film dissolved ultrasonically. The filter components in the resulting solution were quantified by HPLC analysis with detection at 325 nm and by spectrophotometry. In this study, the four UV filter combinations showed different photostability profiles and the best one was formulation 3 (OMC, BP-3 and OC), followed by formulations 4, 1 and 2. In addition, OC improved the photostability of OMC, AVB and BP-3.

Ultraviolet protective performance of photoprotective lipsticks: change of spectral transmittance because of ultraviolet exposure

BACKGROUND

Photoinstability of sunscreens because of ultraviolet (UV) exposure is a well-known and common phenomenon. Recently, it was also shown that sunscreens with complex filter combinations are photoinactivated by UV exposures, which can easily be acquired by solar exposure over several hours.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the change of the spectral transmission after UV exposure (UV-challenged protective performance) of 27 commercially available photoprotective lipsticks.

METHODS

Quartz slides were covered with a lipstick layer (area density 1.0+/-0.1 mg/cm2) and irradiated with increasing doses of solar-simulated radiation. The spectral transmission (T) was measured spectrophotometrically before and after 5, 12.5, 25, and 50 standard erythema doses (SED) of exposure. We calculated the change in transmission (photoinstability) as the difference between the spectral transmission before and after a defined UV exposure, DeltaT, and the arithmetic mean, for both the UVA (DeltaTA) and UVB (DeltaTB) ranges. A product was labelled as photounstable if the mean photoinstability in the UVA, DeltaTA, or UVB range, DeltaTB, was higher than 5% for an UV exposure of 12.5 SED.

RESULTS

Eleven products showed a significant photoinstability in the UVA range (DeltaTA between 6% and 27%), only one product in the UVB range (DeltaTB = 13%), and one product in both the UVA (DeltaTA = 31%) and UVB (DeltaTB = 9%) range. In one product photoinstability became significant in the UVA range at higher UV exposures.

CONCLUSIONS

Out of 27 lipsticks only 13 products showed a photostable performance (DeltaTA < 5% and DeltaTB < 5% for 12.5 SED). We propose therefore that only products, which fulfil these UV photostability criteria should be marketed.

Unexpected Photolysis of the Sunscreen Octinoxate in the Presence of the Sunscreen Avobenzone¶

A major concern raised about photostability studies of sunscreen products is that the photodegradation of sunscreens does not readily translate into changes in product performance. This study examines the correlation between photochemical degradation of sunscreen agents and changes in protection provided by sunscreen films. Films of a commercial sunscreen product containing avobenzone, oxybenzone and octinoxate were irradiated using a fluorescent UV-A phototherapy lamp with additional UV-B blocking filter. Periodically, during irradiation the transmittances of the films were measured and samples collected for chemical analysis of the sunscreen agents using high-performance liquid chromatography techniques. The results show that UV-induced changes in UV transmittance of sunscreen films correlate with changes in concentration of sunscreen agents. In a parallel experiment, we also irradiated a thin film of the same product in the cavity of an electron spin resonance (ESR) spectrometer. We report the concomitant photolysis of avobenzone and octinoxate that predominates over expected E/Z photoisomerization and that irradiation of a film of this product produced free radicals detected by ESR spectroscopy that persisted even after exposure had ended.

Aqueous photolysis of the sunscreen agent octyl-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid. Formation of disinfection byproducts in chlorinated swimming pool water

The photochemical behavior of the sunscreen agent octyl-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid (ODPABA) was studied in different aqueous solutions and under different conditions. ODPABA photolysis was performed under laboratory conditions using a xenon light source and under natural sunlight conditions in sea, swimming pool as well as in distilled water. The influence of dissolved organic matter (DOM) on the degradation kinetics was also studied in the presence of various concentrations of humic acids (HA). The phototransformation was shown to proceed via pseudo-first-order reaction in all cases and the reaction rates followed the order: distilled water > swimming pool water > seawater, depending mainly on the presence of dissolved organic matter that retarded the photolysis reaction. Kinetic experiments were monitored with HPLC/UV-DAD and the half-lives (t 1/2) varied between 1.6 and 39 h in simulated solar irradiation and between 27 and 39 h in natural sunlight conditions. The product distribution during illumination was strongly dependent on the constitution of the irradiated media. Irradiation of the aqueous ODPABA solutions gave rise to several transformation products that were isolated by means of solid-phase extraction (SPE) and identified using GC-MS techniques. These were formed mainly through dealkylation and hydroxylation reactions and were detected in all aqueous solutions investigated. In the case of swimming pool water some additional byproducts were isolated and were tentatively identified as chlorinated intermediates, formed by the subsequent chlorination of the parent molecule as well as other intermediates.

Influence of encapsulation on the in vitro percutaneous absorption of octyl methoxycinnamate

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the in vitro transdermal permeation and skin accumulation of one ultraviolet (UV) absorber-octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC)-through pig skin and to determine the quantity of OMC in the skin surface and different pig skin layers (stratum corneum, viable epidermis, dermis, and receptor fluid). Four cases have been considered: the application of oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions containing the same filter free and encapsulated in nanocapsules (NC). The influence of the carrier on the percutaneous penetration was studied. Data showed that UV absorber exhibited increases in skin accumulation when is formulated in emulsions in free form. Skin accumulation of OMC-free in the emulsions was significantly (P < 0.05) greater than that of OMC-encapsulated for all formulations investigated. OMC-free skin accumulation ranged from 127.8 +/- 22.8 microg/cm(2) (O/W emulsion) to 172.1 +/- 12.9 microg/cm(2) (W/O emulsion). OMC-encapsulated skin accumulation ranged from 50.3 +/- 13.1 microg/cm(2) to 43.0 +/- 6.5 microg/cm(2) at NC-O/W and NC-W/O, respectively. No significant differences were found in the transdermal permeation of cinnamate for any of the formulations tested. The results of this study demonstrate that the inclusion of OMC-encapsulated in sunscreen formulations decreases the skin accumulation of the cinnamate since the in vitro release mechanism of OMC-nanocapsules is governed by hydrophobicity and crystallinity of the polymer and by the high lipophilicity of the drug. The crystallinity of the polymer have the ability of reflecting and scattering UV radiation on their own thus leading to photoprotection without the need for molecular sunscreens.

Determination of residues of UV filters in natural waters by solid-phase extraction coupled to liquid chromatography–photodiode array detection and gas chromatography–mass spectrometry

This study describes a procedure for the enrichment, separation and quantification of four major UV filters in natural waters. Solid-phase extraction combined with liquid chromatography and photodiode array detection (LC-UV-DAD), and gas chromatography with mass spectroscopy (GC-MS) were employed for the analyses. LC of the four compounds with surfactant-modified hydro-organic eluents gave satisfactory resolution of overlapping peaks. In GC, a significant improvement of the detection limits was attained, but only three compounds could be detected. The method was validated for, and applied to, various water samples prone to UV filter accumulation due to recreational activities. Recoveries from real samples were 86-99% with LOQs as low as 0.5 ng/l depending on the sample volume and the analytical procedure.

An in vitro systematic spectroscopic examination of the photostabilities of a random set of commercial sunscreen lotions and their chemical UVB/UVA active agents

The photostabilities of a random set of commercially available sunscreen lotions and their active ingredients are examined spectroscopically subsequent to simulated sunlight UV exposure. Loss of filtering efficacy can occur because of possible photochemical modifications of the sunscreen active agents. Changes in absorption of UVA/ UVB sunlight by agents in sunscreen lotions also leads to a reduction of the expected photoprotection of human skin and DNA against the harmful UV radiation. The active ingredients were investigated in aqueous media and in organic solvents of various polarities (methanol, acetonitrile, and n-hexane) under aerobic and anaerobic conditions The UV absorption features are affected by the nature of the solvents with properties closely related to oil-in-water (o/w) or water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions actually used in sunscreen formulations, and by the presence of molecular oxygen. The photostabilities of two combined chemical ingredients (oxybenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate) and the combination oxybenzone/titanium dioxide were also explored. In the latter case, oxybenzone undergoes significant photodegradation in the presence of the physical filter TiO2.

Change of ultraviolet absorbance of sunscreens by exposure to solar-simulated radiation

Regarding the outdoor behavior of the Caucasian population, modern sunscreens should provide high and broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection in the ultraviolet B as well as in the ultraviolet A range and should be photochemically stable for ultraviolet doses, which can be expected in solar radiation. At present an assessment of the photostability of suncare products is not a general requirement before marketing. In order to evaluate the photostability of suncare products we conducted an in vitro test and measured the spectral absorbance of 16 sunscreens before, and after exposure to increasing biologically weighted standard erythema doses (5, 12.5, 25, 50) of solar-simulated radiation. Seven of 16 suncare products showed a significant dose- and wavelength-dependent decrease of the ultraviolet A protective capacity, whereas the ability to absorb ultraviolet B was not affected. In the ultraviolet A range, the decrease of absorbance (photoinactivation), respectively, the increase of transmission was 12-48% for an ultraviolet exposure of 25 standard erythema dose. Photoinactivation started in the wavelength range between 320 and 335 nm with a maximum above 350 nm. Furthermore, our analysis showed that the behavior of suncare products was not predictable from its individual ingredients. Neither complex combinations of organic filters nor addition of inorganic filters could absolutely prevent photoinactivation. The inclusion of a single photounstable filter did not mean photoinstability of the complete suncare product. Photoinactivation of sunscreens appears to be an underestimated hazard to the skin, first, by formation of free radicals, second, by increased ultraviolet A transmission.

Determination of the UV filters worldwide authorised in sunscreens by high-performance liquid chromatography. Use of cyclodextrins as mobile phase modifier

Simultaneous determination of organic UV filters worldwide authorised in sunscreen formulations was performed by HPLC with UV spectrophotometric detection. The filters determined were: benzophenone-4, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl dimethyl PABA, octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate and octyl salicylate. A C18 stationary phase and an isocratic mobile phase of ethanol-water-acetic acid (70:29.5:0.5) containing 65.4 mM of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, were used with a flow-rate of 0.6 ml/min. UV measurements were carried out at 313 nm. The time required for the analysis was 20 min and the limits of detection were between 1.5 and 2.3 mg/l. The procedure proposed provides a green analytical method with a basic instrumental configuration, it is fast and accurate and does not involve highly toxic organic solvents.

Stripping method to quantify absorption of two sunscreens in human

With the aim to know the remanence of two sunscreens, PEG-25 PABA and benzophenone, two cases have been considered: the application of aqueous solution of two filters studied for the application of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions containing the same two filters on the skin of 21 voluntary women. In order to determine the quantity of filter remaining in the stratum corneum after times of application, which vary from 1 to 7 h, a series of six strippings have been carried out. The sunscreen agents were assessed by HPLC. With this study, it has been possible to emphasize the best remanence of benzophenone 4. Moreover, the incorporation of photo-protective agents in a O/W emulsion promotes their penetration, and this is particularly due to benzophenone 4.