Acid phosphatase distribution in the wool follicle. III. Fate of organelles in keratinized cells

Autophagy-Mediated Cellular Remodeling during Terminal Differentiation of Keratinocytes in the Epidermis and Skin Appendages

The epidermis of the skin and skin appendages, such as nails, hair and sebaceous glands, depend on a balance of cell proliferation and terminal differentiation in order to fulfill their functions at the interface of the body and the environment. The differentiation of epithelial cells of the skin, commonly referred to as keratinocytes, involves major remodeling processes that generate metabolically inactive cell remnants serving as building blocks of the epidermal stratum corneum, nail plates and hair shafts. Only sebaceous gland differentiation results in cell disintegration and holocrine secretion. A series of studies performed in the past decade have revealed that the lysosome-dependent intracellular degradation mechanism of autophagy is active during keratinocyte differentiation, and the blockade of autophagy significantly alters the properties of the differentiation products. Here, we present a model for the autophagy-mediated degradation of organelles and cytosolic proteins as an important contributor to cellular remodeling in keratinocyte differentiation. The roles of autophagy are discussed in comparison to alternative intracellular degradation mechanisms and in the context of programmed cell death as an integral end point of epithelial differentiation.

Wanted, dead and alive: Why a multidisciplinary approach is needed to unlock hair treatment potential

Human recorded history is littered with attempts to improve the perceived appearance of scalp hair. Throughout history, treatments have included both biological and chemical interventions. Hair "quality" or "perceived appearance" is regulated by multiple biological intervention opportunities: adding more hairs by flipping follicles from telogen to anagen, or delaying anagen follicles transiting into catagen; altering hair "apparent amount" by modulating shaft diameter or shape; or, in principle, altering shaft physical properties changing its synthesis. By far the most common biological intervention strategy today is to increase the number of hairs, but to date this has proven difficult and has yielded minimal benefits. Chemical intervention primarily consists of active material surface deposition to improve shaft shine, fibre-fibre interactions and strength. Real, perceptible benefits will best be achieved by combining opportunity areas across the three primary sciences: biology, chemistry and physics. Shaft biogenesis begins with biology: proliferation in the germinative matrix, then crossing "Auber's Critical Line" and ceasing proliferation to synthesize shaft components. Biogenesis then shifts to oxidative chemistry, where previously synthesized components are organized and cross-linked into a shaft. We herein term the crossing point from biology to chemistry as "The Orwin Threshold." Historically, hair biology and chemistry have been conducted in different fields, with biological manipulation residing in biomedical communities and hair shaft chemistry and physics within the consumer care industry, with minimal cross-fertilization. Detailed understanding of hair shaft biogenesis should enable identification of factors necessary for optimum hair shaft production and new intervention opportunities.

Development of Hair Fibres

The growth of hairs occurs during the anagen phase of the follicle cycle. Hair growth begins with basement membrane-bound stem cells (mother cells) around the dermal papilla neck which continuously bud off daughter cells which further divide as a transient amplifying population. Division ceases as cell line differentiation begins, which entails changes in cell junctions, cell shape and position, and cell-line specific cytoplasmic expression of keratin and trichohyalin. As the differentiating cells migrate up the bulb, nuclear function ceases in cortex, cuticle and inner root sheath (IRS) layers. Past the top of the bulb, cell shape/position changes cease, and there is a period of keratin and keratin-associated protein (KAP) synthesis in fibre cell lines, with increases, in particular of KAP species. A gradual keratinization process begins in the cortex at this point and then non-keratin cell components are increasingly broken down. Terminal cornification, or hardening, is associated with water loss and precipitation of keratin. In the upper follicle, the hair, now in its mature form, detaches from the IRS, which is then extracted of material and becomes fragmented to release the fibre. Finally, the sebaceous and sudoriferous (if present) glands coat the fibre in lipid-rich material and the fibre emerges from the skin. This chapter follows the origin of the hair growth in the lower bulb and traces the development of the various cell lines.

Structure and biochemistry of mammalian hard keratin

In this review, the structure and biological formation of hard alpha-keratin are drawn together. The hard keratins comprising wool, hairs, quills, hooves, horns, nails and baleen contain partly alpha-helical polypeptides which show homology with epidermal polypeptides only in the helical regions. These polypeptides (about 32 chains) are organized into intermediate filaments (IFs) of 7.5 nm diameter which are embedded in variable amounts of a matrix of non-helical cystine-rich proteins and glycine-tyrosine-rich proteins. The total number of proteins may exceed 100. In addition keratins contain a variety of lipid components. Wool and hair are produced in follicles in a multistep procedure. In the lower levels of the follicle, IFs without associated matrix are found. Subsequently matrix proteins are laid down between the IFs and further synthesis takes place concurrently. Finally the proteins are insolubilized by the oxidative formation of disulphide bonds. Keratinized fibres shows considerable complexity and diversity in the structural arrangement of IFs and matrix within cortical cells. Typically the IFs show hexagonal packing or give a whorl-like appearance in cross-section.