Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid

Application of a Dopa Derivative for the Formation of Gels in the Presence of Commercial Surfactants

Cosmetic formulations are complex mixtures of ingredients that must fulfill several requirements. One of the challenges of the cosmetic industry is to find natural alternatives to replace synthetic polymers, preserving desirable sensory characteristics. The aim of this work is to induce the formation of gels, by replacing synthetic polymers with a low-molecular-weight gelator (LMWG), a small molecule able to self-assemble and form supramolecular networks. The impact of low-molecular-weight gelators on the environment is reduced as they are highly biodegradable. Thus, the behavior of solutions containing Boc-L-Dopa(Bn)2-OH, an LMWG, together with ten different anionic surfactants, was studied to understand if the LMWG may act as a rheological modifier by increasing the viscosity of the formulation or forming gels with these ingredients. An amphoteric surfactant, cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), often used to increase cleansing gentleness, was also added to the solutions to better mimic a cosmetic formulation. In most cases, the addition of the gelator at only a 1% w/v concentration induces the gelification or an increase in the viscosity of the solutions, thus showing that this molecule is also able to self-assemble in complex mixtures.

Evaluating the Efficacy and Safety of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids in Dermatological Practice: A Comprehensive Clinical and Legal Review

The global market for alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) is undergoing significant expansion, propelled by increasing demand for skincare products that address aging and environmental damage. This review focuses on the dermatological applications of AHAs, particularly in cosmetic formulations like chemical peels. We have identified that AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acids, enhance skin rejuvenation by promoting apoptosis in skin cells, boosting collagen and elastin synthesis, and improving skin texture and luminosity. Our comprehensive analysis reveals a nuanced understanding of AHAs' effectiveness across various skin types and conditions, demonstrating their broad utility in treating conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, and photoaging. However, the optimal concentrations for therapeutic efficacy with minimal side effects are yet to be precisely defined, necessitating further research. Regulatory compliance is underscored as essential for the safe application of AHAs in cosmetics, with international guidelines recommending specific concentrations and pH levels to minimize potential skin irritation. In Conclusion, the review highlights the effectiveness of AHAs in cosmetic dermatology, emphasizing the necessity for continued research and rigorous regulatory adherence to maximize their safe and beneficial application worldwide.

Fast, sensitive LC-MS resolution of α -hydroxy acid biomarkers via SPP-teicoplanin and an alternative UV detection approach

Enantioseparation of α -hydroxy acids is essential since specific enantiomers of these compounds can be used as disease biomarkers for diagnosis and prognosis of cancer, brain diseases, kidney diseases, diabetes, etc., as well as in the food industry to ensure quality. HPLC methods were developed for the enantioselective separation of 11 α -hydroxy acids using a superficially porous particle-based teicoplanin (TeicoShell) chiral stationary phase. The retention behaviors observed for the hydroxy acids were HILIC, reversed phase, and ion-exclusion. While both mass spectrometry and UV spectroscopy detection methods could be used, specific mobile phases containing ammonium formate and potassium dihydrogen phosphate, respectively, were necessary with each approach. The LC-MS mode was approximately two orders of magnitude more sensitive than UV detection. Mobile phase acidity and ionic strength significantly affected enantioresolution and enantioselectivity. Interestingly, higher ionic strength resulted in increased retention and enantioresolution. It was noticed that for formate-containing mobile phases, using acetonitrile as the organic modifier usually resulted in greater enantioresolution compared to methanol. However, sometimes using acetonitrile with high ammonium formate concentrations led to lengthy retention times which could be avoided by using methanol as the organic modifier. Additionally, the enantiomeric purities of single enantiomer standards were determined and it was shown that almost all standards contained some levels of enantiomeric impurities.

Valorization of shrimp processing waste-derived chitosan into anti-inflammatory chitosan-oligosaccharides (CHOS)

Bioconversion of chitosan into soluble anti-inflammatory chitosan oligosaccharides (CHOS) using a Bacillus chitosanase, BsCsn46A, was investigated, including food-grade approaches. After 48 h of enzymatic reaction, most of the final products were dimers and trimers. None of the CHOS products showed toxicity to human fibroblasts. Analysis of CHOS bioactivity against LPS-induced inflammation of human macrophages indicated that CHOS generated from different bioconversion processes have anti-inflammatory activity, the magnitude of which depends on the type of substrate and production process. Both lactic acid and HCl can be used to dissolve chitosan; however, the product generated from lactic acid solution was highly hygroscopic after lyophilization, hence not suitable for long-term storage. Downstream processes, i.e., centrifugation and filtration, affect its anti-inflammatory activity. Analysis of standard CHOS with known structure showed that an acetyl group at the reducing end and the degree of polymerization (DP) are critical for biological activity. Importantly, when applied at levels above the optimal concentrations, certain standard CHOS and CHOS mixtures could induce inflammation. These results support the potential of CHOS as anti-inflammatory agents but reveal batch-to-batch variation and possible side effects, indicating that careful quality assurance of CHOS preparations is essential.

Insights on the role of L-lactate as a signaling molecule in skin aging

L-lactate is a catabolite from the anaerobic metabolism of glucose, which plays a paramount role as a signaling molecule in various steps of the cell survival. Its activity, as a master tuner of many mechanisms underlying the aging process, for example in the skin, is still presumptive, however its crucial position in the complex cross-talk between mitochondria and the process of cell survival, should suggest that L-lactate may be not a simple waste product but a fine regulator of the aging/survival machinery, probably via mito-hormesis. Actually, emerging evidence is highlighting that ROS are crucial in the signaling of skin health, including mechanisms underlying wound repair, renewal and aging. The ROS, including superoxide anion, hydrogen peroxide, and nitric oxide, play both beneficial and detrimental roles depending upon their levels and cellular microenvironment. Physiological ROS levels are essential for cutaneous health and the wound repair process. Aberrant redox signaling activity drives chronic skin disease in elderly. On the contrary, impaired redox modulation, due to enhanced ROS generation and/or reduced levels of antioxidant defense, suppresses wound healing via promoting lymphatic/vascular endothelial cell apoptosis and death. This review tries to elucidate this issue.

Tea Tree Oil: Properties and the Therapeutic Approach to Acne-A Review

Acne vulgaris is an inflammatory dermatological pathology that affects mostly young people. However, it can also appear in adulthood, mainly in women. It has a high psychosocial impact, not only at the time of active lesions but also due to the consequences of lesions such as scarring and hyperpigmentation. Several factors are involved in the physiopathology of acne and the constant search for active ingredients is a reality, namely phytotherapeutic ingredients. Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from Melaleuca alternifolia (Maiden & Betch) Cheel with known antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, making it a candidate for the treatment of acne. This review aims to describe the various properties of tea tree oil that make it a possible ingredient to use in the treatment of acne and to present several human studies that have evaluated the efficacy and safety of using tea tree oil in the treatment of acne. It can be concluded that tea tree oil has good antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties that result in a decrease in the number of inflammatory lesions, mainly papules, and pustules. However, given the diversity of study designs, it is not possible to draw concrete conclusions on the efficacy and safety of this oil in the treatment of acne.

Probiotics in dermatological and cosmetic products – application and efficiency

The term “probiotics” has first been used in 1907 by Elie Metchnikoff. Since then, probiotics have been part of research not only in regards of digestive health, but also inflammatory diseases. Lately, there has been an increased interest of probiotic’s effects in skincare. The management of atopic dermatitis, acne, psoriasis, photo aging, skin cancer, intimate care, oral care, wound healing is getting harder each passing day, due to increased antibiotic resistance and other side effects of conventional therapy. Therefore, new ingredients have been investigated and probiotics have been proved to be effective in treating various skin conditions. This review aims to evaluate the scientific evidence on topical and oral probiotics, and to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic and dermatological products containing probiotics. Many studies have shown that skin and gut microbiome alterations have an important role in skin health. Although this is a new topic in dermatology and cosmetology, there have been some promising results in lots of research studies that the use of probiotics in cosmetic products may help improve the patient’s outcome. While oral probiotics have been shown to promote gut health, which influences the host immune system and helps treat different skin diseases, the mechanism of action of topical probiotics is not yet fully understood. Although the number of commercial probiotic cosmetic products released in the market is increasing and most of the studies have not shown any serious side effect of probiotics, further studies, in larger and heterogeneous groups are needed.

Microbial Natural Products with Wound-Healing Properties

Wound healing continues to pose a challenge in clinical settings. Moreover, wound management must be performed properly and efficiently. Acute wound healing involves multiple cell divisions, a new extracellular matrix, and the process of formation, such as growth factors and cytokines, which are released at the site of the wound to regulate the process. Any changes that disrupt the healing process could cause tissue damage and prolong the healing process. Various factors, such as microbial infection, oxidation, and inflammation, can delay wound healing. In order to counter these problems, utilizing natural products with wound-healing effects has been reported to promote this process. Several natural products have been associated with wound healing, most of which are from medicinal plants. However, secondary microbial metabolites have not been extensively studied for their wound-healing properties. Further, investigations on the wound-healing control of natural microbial products are required due to a lack of studies. This review discussed the in vivo and in vitro research on the wound healing activities of natural microbial products, which may assist in the development of better wound treatments in the future.

A review of the catalytic conversion of glycerol to lactic acid in the presence of aqueous base

Lactic acid is a high-value-added chemical with large production, which is used in many industries including the production of pyruvic and acrylic acids. Lactic acid is largely obtained from the oxidation of glycerol, which is a prevalent by-product of biodiesel production. However, the oxidation of glycerol to lactic acid requires harsh reaction conditions such as high temperature and pressure as well as the use of a hefty strong base. In the presence of suitable catalysts, the production of lactic acid from glycerol can be achieved under mild conditions with 1 equivalent base per mole of glycerol. Herein, we review the reports of the catalytic conversion of glycerol to lactic acid in an aqueous alkaline medium considering the reaction conditions, catalytic activity for glycerol conversion and selectivity for lactic acid. We start first with the reports on the use of homogeneous catalysts that have high catalytic activity but miserable recovery. Next, we discuss the employment of colloidal metal(0) nanoparticles as catalysts in glycerol oxidation. The papers on the use of supported metal(0) nanoparticles are reviewed according to the type of support. We then review the polymetallic and metal/metal oxide nanocatalysts used for the conversion of glycerol to lactic acid in an alkaline medium. The catalysts tested for glycerol conversion to lactic acid without any additional bases are also discussed to emphasize the importance of a strong base for catalytic performance. The proposed mechanisms of glycerol oxidation to lactic acid in the presence or absence of catalysts as well as for the formation of side products are discussed. The available experimental kinetics data are shown to fit the mechanism with the formation of glyceraldehyde from glycerol alkoxide as the rate-determining step.

Corneometric evaluation of skin moisture after application of 10% and 30% gluconolactone

BACKGROUND

Dry skin, caused by improper care or genetic conditions, can affect people of all ages. Skin hydration is determined its lipid content, which inhibits water loss from the epidermis, as well as other substances such as polyhydroxy acids and gluconolactone that can bind water. The aim of this study was to evaluate skin hydration after the application of 10% and 30% gluconolactone solution in a split face model.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Sixteen healthy women were qualified for the study. Three split face treatments were performed, with 10% and 30% gluconolactone solution applied to two sides of the face. Skin moisture was measured before each treatment and a week after the last treatment at three measurement sites on either side of the face, that is, on the forehead, around the eye and on the cheek.

RESULTS

Corneometric measurements showed a significant increase in facial skin hydration after gluconolactone treatment. No significant differences were observed between the application of 10% and 30% solution.

CONCLUSION

Gluconolactone is a moisturizing substance which works well in dry skin care.

Dermatologic reactions to disinfectant use during the COVID-19 pandemic

Infection preventive practice of using disinfectants against SARS-CoV-2 has become the new normal due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Although disinfectants may not be applied directly to the human body, it remains at high risk of exposure including close skin contact on disinfected surfaces or during handling. This dermal contact, on a regular basis, can induce hazardous skin reactions like irritation, inflammation, and burning in severe conditions. Disinfectants are germicide chemicals that can penetrate the skin and create skin reactions that are usually regarded as irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. More importantly, disinfectants can react with skin components (proteins and lipids) to facilitate their skin penetration and disrupt the skin barrier function. Whereas the antimicrobial actions of disinfectants are well understood, much less is known regarding their dermatologic reactions, including but not limited to irritation and hypersensitivity. We reviewed the skin reactions created by those disinfectants against SARS-CoV-2 approved by the European Chemical Agency and the US Environmental Protection Agency.

Invited review: Acid whey trends and health benefits

In recent years, acid whey production has increased due to a growing demand for Greek yogurt and acid-coagulated cheeses. Acid whey is a dairy by-product for which the industry has long struggled to find a sustainable application. Bulk amounts of acid whey associated with the dairy industry have led to increasing research on ways to valorize it. Industry players are finding ways to use acid whey on-site with ultrafiltration techniques and biodigesters, to reduce transportation costs and provide energy for the facility. Academia has sought to further investigate practical uses and benefits of this by-product. Although modern research has shown many other possible applications for acid whey, no comprehensive review yet exists about its composition, utilization, and health benefits. In this review, the industrial trends, the applications and uses, and the potential health benefits associated with the consumption of acid whey are discussed. The proximal composition of acid whey is discussed in depth. In addition, the potential applications of acid whey, such as its use as a starting material in the production of fermented beverages, as growth medium for cultivation of lactic acid bacteria in replacement of commercial media, and as a substrate for the isolation of lactose and minerals, are reviewed. Finally, the potential health benefits of the major protein constituents of acid whey, bioactive phospholipids, and organic acids such as lactic acid are described. Acid whey has promising applications related to potential health benefits, ranging from antibacterial effects to cognitive development for babies to human gut health.

Inflammation, HIV, and Immune Quiescence: Leveraging on Immunomodulatory Products to Reduce HIV Susceptibility

The relationship between inflammation and HIV has been a focus of research over the last decade. In HIV-infected individuals, increased HIV-associated immune activation significantly correlated to disease progression. While genital inflammation (GI) has been shown to significantly increase the risk of HIV acquisition and transmission, immune correlates for reduced risk remain limited. In certain HIV-exposed seronegative individuals, an immune quiescent phenotype characterized reduced risk. Immune quiescence is defined by specific, targeted, highly regulated immune responses that hinder overt inflammation or immune activation. Targeted management of inflammation, therefore, is a plausible strategy to mitigate HIV risk and slow disease progression. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) such as hydroxychloroquine and aspirin have shown encouraging preliminary results in low-risk women by reducing systemic and genital immune activation. A topical NSAID, containing ibuprofen, is effective in treating vulvovaginal inflammation. Additionally, the glucocorticoids (GCs), prednisolone, and dexamethasone are used to treat HIV-associated immune activation. Collectively, these data inform on immune-modulating drugs to reduce HIV risk. However, the prolonged use of these pharmaceutical drugs is associated with adverse effects, both systemically and to a lesser extent topically. Natural products with their reduced side effects coupled with anti-inflammatory properties render them viable options. Lactic acid (LA) has immunomodulatory properties. LA regulates the genital microbiome by facilitating the growth of Lactobacillus species, while simultaneously limiting bacterial species that cause microbial dysbiosis and GI. Glycerol monolaurate, besides being anti-inflammatory, also inhibited SIV infections in rhesus macaques. The proposed pharmaceutical and natural products could be used in combination with either antiretrovirals for treatment or preexposure prophylaxis for HIV prevention. This review provides a summary on the associations between inflammation, HIV risk, and disease progression. Furthermore, we use the knowledge from immune quiescence to exploit the use of pharmaceutical and natural products as strategic interventions to manage inflammation, toward mitigating HIV infections.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Protective effects of tyndallized Lactobacillus acidophilus IDCC 3302 against UVB‑induced photodamage to epidermal keratinocytes cells

Photoaging is a consequence of chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and results in skin damage. In this study, whether tyndallizate of the probiotic bacterium Lactobacillus acidophilus IDCC 3302 (ACT 3302) can protect against UVB‑induced photodamage to the skin was investigated. For this, HaCaT keratinocytes were used as a model for skin photoaging. HaCaT cells were treated with ACT 3302 prior to UVB exposure and skin hydration factors and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)‑1, MMP‑2, and MMP‑9 levels in the culture supernatant were evaluated by ELISA. The protective effects of ACT 3302 against UVB‑induced oxidative stress in HaCaT cells was also assessed by measuring superoxide dismutase and catalase activity and detecting the expression of pro‑inflammatory cytokine‑encoding genes and mitogen‑activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling components by reverse transcription‑quantitative polymerase chain reaction and western blotting, respectively. UVB exposure increased MMP expression and MAPK activation; these changes were attenuated by pretreatment with ACT 3302. Treatment with ACT 3302 prior to UVB exposure also attenuated inflammation. These results demonstrate that tyndallized ACT 3302 can mitigate photodamage to the skin induced by UVB radiation through the suppression of MMPs and could therefore be used clinically to prevent wrinkle formation.

Batch Electrodialysis of Lactic Acid Obtained from Lab Fermentation

The aim of this work was to develop the method of lactic acid (LA) separation from fermented whey. CMI-7000 Cation Exchange Membrane and AMI-7001 Anion Exchange Membrane were employed in electrodialysis process. Experiments showed that the selected membranes separated organic acids effectively (including LA) from other organic ingredients present in medium. Selecting an appropriate volume of a receiving chamber could lead to LA concentration. Moreover, membrane fouling during separation was investigated. This phenomenon is negligible which is the main advantage of this process. As it was shown during batch processes, with the voltage increase, the rate of electrodialysis increases as well. It prompts to a reduction of residence time in electrodialyzer during a continuous separation.

Lactic and lactobionic acids as typically moisturizing compounds

BACKGROUND

Recently more attention has been drawn to alpha hydroxy and polyhydroxy acids (AHA and PHA) due to their excellent moisturizing and antioxidant properties. These compounds are very beneficial in terms of both cosmetic and dermatological treatments.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was an assessment of moisturizing properties of lactobionic and lactic acids based on available literature.

METHODS

Literature review using scientific databases: PubMed, Medline (EBSCO), Medline Complete, Karger, Springer/ICM, SpringerLink/online, Wiley Online Library.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS

Through their construction, alpha AHA and PHA are able to bind large amounts of water and act as potent antioxidant agents through inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases and strong chelating properties. Another important characteristic is the maintenance of the epidermal barrier integrity during application of lactic acid (LAC) and lactobionic acid (LA) and thus the opportunity to use them on sensitive skin types including couperose skin.

How to Use Oral and Topical Cosmeceuticals to Prevent and Treat Skin Aging

Skin aging is caused by DNA damage in nuclei and mitochondria, inflammation, glycation, decreased function of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and breakdown of heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin. Identifying patients at an increased risk of skin aging using a standardized methodology to diagnose the Baumann Skin Type will allow doctors to prescribe an efficacious antiaging skin care regimen. Cosmeceuticals can activate LGR6+ stem cells, improve cell response to signals such as growth factors, stimulate collagen genes, neutralize free radicals, and decrease breakdown of collagen and elastin. Giving written instructions will increase patient compliance and improve outcomes.

Efficacy and tolerability of a double-conjugated retinoid cream vs 1.0% retinol cream or 0.025% tretinoin cream in subjects with mild to severe photoaging

BACKGROUND

Topical retinoids are used to treat the visible signs of photoaging. While efficacious, they are irritating.

OBJECTIVE

Evaluate the effectiveness and tolerability of a double-conjugate retinoid cream (AlphaRet Overnight Cream; AHA-Ret) in improving visible signs of photoaging vs 1.0% retinol or 0.025% tretinoin.

METHODS

A 12-week, split-face, randomized trial was conducted in 48 female subjects, aged 30-65 years with mild to severe photodamage. AHA-Ret was applied to one side of the face and either retinol (n=24) or tretinoin (n=24) to the other side (PM). Expert blinded evaluation of images and Nova measurements occurred at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Tolerability was assessed throughout the study.

RESULTS

Forty-seven subjects completed the study. AHA-Ret demonstrated significant reductions in average severity from baseline: Fine Lines/Wrinkles (P<.001; all time points); Erythema (P=.004, P<.0001; 8 and 12 weeks, respectively); Dyschromia (P<.0001; all time points); Skin Tone (P<.0001; all time points), and Pore Size (P=.035, P<.0001; 8 and 12 weeks, respectively). AHA-Ret induced less Erythema vs retinol at 8 (P=.008) and 12 (P<.02) weeks. AHA-Ret was noninferior to prescription tretinoin in all categories at 4 and 8 weeks, and for Fine Lines/Wrinkles, Erythema, Dyschromia, and Skin Tone at 12 weeks. Improvements in Hydration occurred at every time point with AHA-Ret only (P<.04, P<.03, P<.01). Less irritation was reported with AHA-Ret vs retinol or tretinoin.

CONCLUSIONS

Treatment with a double-conjugate retinoid cream demonstrated early reductions in photodamage and improvements in Hydration. AHA-Ret induced less Erythema vs retinol and was more tolerable vs retinol and tretinoin.

Metabolic engineering of Methanosarcina acetivorans for lactate production from methane

We previously demonstrated anaerobic conversion of the greenhouse gas methane into acetate using an engineered archaeon that produces methyl-coenzyme M reductase (Mcr) from unculturable microorganisms from a microbial mat in the Black Sea to create the first culturable prokaryote that reverses methanogenesis and grows anaerobically on methane. In this work, we further engineered the same host with the goal of converting methane into butanol. Instead, we discovered a process for converting methane to a secreted valuable product, L-lactate, with sufficient optical purity for synthesizing the biodegradable plastic poly-lactic acid. We determined that the 3-hydroxybutyryl-CoA dehydrogenase (Hbd) from Clostridium acetobutylicum is responsible for lactate production. This work demonstrates the first metabolic engineering of a methanogen with a synthetic pathway; in effect, we produce a novel product (lactate) from a novel substrate (methane) by cloning the three genes for Mcr and one for Hbd. We further demonstrate the utility of anaerobic methane conversion with an increased lactate yield compared to aerobic methane conversion to lactate. Biotechnol. Bioeng. 2017;114: 852-861. © 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Exfoliative Skin-peeling, Benefits from This Procedure and Our Experience

The peeling procedure is a valuable method for the aged skin, photo aging, acne scars and melasma. It should be performed by dermatologist. Pre peeling preparation of the skin is very important to prepare the skin for this procedure. It can be archived by applying the mask with acids twice a week. The caring of the skin after procedure is also very important for the success of the treatment. Same cases may have complication but managing them is also a challenge for dermatologist.

An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin

Background

The demand for antiaging products has dramatically increased in recent years, driven by an aging population seeking to maintain the appearance of youth. This study investigates the effects of an antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) in conjunction with vitamins B₃, C, and E on the biomechanical parameters of facial skin.

Methods

Fifty two volunteers followed an antiaging skin care regimen comprising of cleanser, eye cream, day moisturizer, and night moisturizer for 21 days. Wrinkle depth (R_y) and skin roughness (R_a) were measured by skin surface profilometry of the crow’s feet area, and skin elasticity parameters R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity), R6 (viscoelastic portion), and R7 (recovery after deformation) were determined for facial skin by cutometer, preapplication and after 7, 14, and 21 days. Volunteers also completed a self-assessment questionnaire.

Results

Compared to baseline, R_y and R_a significantly improved by 32.5% (P<0.0001) and 42.9% (P<0.0001), respectively, after 21 days of antiaging skin care treatment. These results were observed by the volunteers with 9 out of 10 discerning an improvement in skin texture and smoothness. Compared to baseline, R2 and R5 significantly increased by 15.2% (P<0.0001) and 12.5% (P=0.0449), respectively, while R6 significantly decreased by 17.7% (P<0.0001) after 21 days. R7 increased by 9.7% after 21 days compared to baseline but this was not significant over this time period.

Conclusion

An antiaging skin care system containing AHAs and vitamins significantly improves the biomechanical parameters of the skin including wrinkles and skin texture, as well as elasticity without significant adverse effects.

Anti-aging cosmetics: facts and controversies

The authors review ageing in its extrinsic and intrinsic mechanisms, as well as the therapies available for improving its effects, and present some of the facts and controversies related to anti-aging cosmetics.

Active ingredients against human epidermal aging

The decisive role of the epidermis in maintaining body homeostasis prompted studies to evaluate the changes in epidermal structure and functionality over the lifetime. This development, along with the identification of molecular mechanisms of epidermal signaling, maintenance, and differentiation, points to a need for new therapeutic alternatives to treat and prevent skin aging. In addition to recovering age- and sun-compromised functions, proper treatment of the epidermis has important esthetic implications. This study reviews active ingredients capable of counteracting symptoms of epidermal aging, organized according to the regulation of specific age-affected epidermal functions: (1) several compounds, other than retinoids and derivatives, act on the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, supporting the protective barrier against mechanical and chemical insults; (2) natural lipidic compounds, as well as glycerol and urea, are described as agents for maintaining water-ion balance; (3) regulation of immunological pathogen defense can be reinforced by natural extracts and compounds, such as resveratrol; and (4) antioxidant exogenous sources enriched with flavonoids and vitamin C, for example, improve solar radiation protection and epidermal antioxidant activity. The main objective is to provide a functional classification of active ingredients as regulatory elements of epidermal homeostasis, with potential cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

Bioactives from probiotics for dermal health: functions and benefits

Probiotics have been extensively reviewed for decades, emphasizing on improving general gut health. Recently, more studies showed that probiotics may exert other health-promoting effects beyond gut well-being, attributed to the rise of the gut-brain axis correlations. Some of these new benefits include skin health such as improving atopic eczema, atopic dermatitis, healing of burn and scars, skin-rejuvenating properties and improving skin innate immunity. Increasing evidence has also showed that bacterial compounds such as cell wall fragments, their metabolites and dead bacteria can elicit certain immune responses on the skin and improve skin barrier functions. This review aimed to underline the mechanisms or the exact compounds underlying the benefits of bacterial extract on the skin based on evidences from in vivo and in vitro studies. This review could be of help in screening of probiotic strains with potential dermal enhancing properties for topical applications.

Development of hydrogel patch for controlled release of alpha-hydroxy acid contained in tamarind fruit pulp extract

Synopsis The aim of this study was to develop hydrogel patch using crosslinked chitosan-starch as polymeric matrix for controlling the release of the natural alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) contained in the extract of tamarind's fruit pulp. The chitosan (MW 100 000) was blended with corn, tapioca or rice starch in various ratios and then crosslinked with glutaraldehyde. The physical characteristics, mechanical resistance, bio-adhesion property and surface morphology of the prepared hydrogel patches with and without the extract were investigated. The release patterns of the hydrogel patches containing the extract were investigated by measuring the amount of tartaric acid, a major AHA present in the tamarind's fruit pulp extract, accumulated in the receptor medium of the vertical diffusion cell at various time intervals over a period of 6 h. The results indicated that the formulations of chitosan : corn starch 4.5 : 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.02% w/w (C(4.5)C(0.5)G(0.02)) or 0.04% w/w (C(4.5)C(0.5)G(0.04)), chitosan : tapioca starch 4.5 : 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.04% w/w (C(4.5)T(0.5)G(0.04)) or 0.05% w/w (C(4.5)T(0.5)G(0.05)), and chitosan : rice starch 4.5 : 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.04% w/w (C(4.5)R(0.5)G(0.04)) and chitosan : rice starch 4.0 : 1.0 with glutaraldehyde 0.03% w/w (C(4.0)R(1.0)G(0.03)) provided the flexible and elastic patches with good bio-adhesive property. The tensile strength values ranged from 5 to15 N mm(-2) and the elasticity ranged from 30 to 60%. The addition of the extract in these formulations significantly increased the tensile strength values of the obtained patches. The patch of C(4.0)R(1.0)G(0.03) formulation containing the extract showed relatively highest porosity, corresponding to its highest amount (12.02 +/- 0.33 mg) and rate (0.452 +/- 0.012 mg mm(-2) min(-1/2)) of tartaric acid released. The amounts of tartaric acid released from the developed hydrogel patches were proportional to a square root of time (Higuchi's model), particularly the release from C(4.0)R(1.0)G(0.03) (R(2), 0.9978 +/- 0.0020) and C(4.5)R(0.5)G(0.04) (R(2), 0.9961 +/- 0.0024) patches.

Negligible penetration of incidental amounts of alpha-hydroxy acid from rinse-off personal care products in human skin using an in vitro static diffusion cell model

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), primarily glycolic and lactic acids, are widely used in cosmetics to alleviate dyspigmentation, photodamage, and other aging skin conditions and as pH adjusters. Glycolic acid reportedly enhances skin damage after repeated ultraviolet light exposure, e.g., increased sunburn cell formation. This study assessed potential in vitro skin penetration of lactic acid and malic acid incorporated into rinse-off personal care products, compared with rinse-off and leave-on exposures to glycolic acid (10%, pH 3.5) in a reference lotion. Radiolabeled AHA-fortified shampoo, conditioner, and lotion were evenly applied as single doses to human epidermal membranes mounted in static diffusion cells (not occluded). Exposures were 1-3 min (rinse-off) or 24 h (leave-on). Epidermal penetration of malic acid and lactic acid from the rinse-off shampoo and conditioner, respectively, was negligible, with >99% removed by rinsing, a negligible portion remaining in the stratum corneum (≤0.15%), and even less penetrating into the viable epidermis (≤0.04%). Glycolic acid penetration from the leave-on reference lotion was 1.42 μg equiv./cm2/h, with total absorbable dose recovery (receptor fluid plus epidermis) of 2.51%, compared to 0.009%, 0.003%, and 0.04% for the rinse-off reference lotion, shampoo (malic acid), and conditioner (lactic acid) exposures, respectively. Dermal penetration of AHAs into human skin is pH-, concentration-, and time-dependent. Alpha-hydroxy acids in rinse-off shampoos and conditioners are almost entirely removed from the skin within minutes by rinsing (resulting in negligible epidermal penetration). This suggests that ultraviolet radiation-induced skin effects of AHA-containing rinse-off products are negligible.

[Skin aging]

Like the entire human organism, the skin is subject to an intrinsic unpreventable aging process. But exogenous factors also influence skin aging. Ultraviolet radiation in particular results in premature skin aging, also referred to as extrinsic skin aging or photo aging, causing in large part aging-associated changes in sun-exposed areas. Intrinsic and extrinsic aging share several molecular similarities despite morphological and pathophysiological differences. The formation of reactive oxygen species and the induction of metalloproteinases reflect central aspects of skin aging. Accumulation of fragmented collagen fibrils prevents neocollagenesis and accounts for further degradation of extracellular matrix by means of positive feedback regulation. The importance of extrinsic factors in skin aging and the detection of its mechanisms has given rise to development of various therapeutic and preventive strategies.

Photoageing: mechanism, prevention and therapy

Photoageing is the superposition of chronic ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage on intrinsic ageing and accounts for most age-associated changes in skin appearance. It is triggered by receptor-initiated signalling, mitochondrial damage, protein oxidation and telomere-based DNA damage responses. Photodamaged skin displays variable epidermal thickness, dermal elastosis, decreased/fragmented collagen, increased matrix-degrading metalloproteinases, inflammatory infiltrates and vessel ectasia. The development of cosmetically pleasing sunscreens that protect against both UVA and UVB irradiation as well as products such as tretinoin that antagonize the UV signalling pathways leading to photoageing are major steps forward in preventing and reversing photoageing. Improved understanding of the skin's innate UV protective mechanisms has also given rise to several novel treatment concepts that promise to revolutionize this field within the coming decade. Such advances should not only allow for the improved appearance of skin in middle age and beyond, but also greatly reduce the accompanying burden of skin cancer.

Lactic Acid Chemical Peels as a New Therapeutic Modality in Melasma in Comparison to Jessner's Solution Chemical Peels

BACKGROUND

Many chemicals have been used in the skin peeling for melasma such as Jessner's solution and glycolic acid. Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that has not been used before in chemical peeling of melasma.

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of the present work was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of lactic acid in chemical peeling of melasma in comparison to Jessner's solution chemical peels.

METHODS

This study was conducted at the Department of Dermatology and Venereology, Baghdad Hospital, in the period between April 2001 and August 2002. Thirty patients with melasma were included in this study. They were mostly of skin type IV according to Fitzpatrick's classification, 26 (86.67%) were women, and 4 (13.33%) were men, with an age range from 18 and 50 years (mean+/-SD, 33.53+/-6.96 years). Full clinical examination was done to all patients including Wood's light. The severity of melasma was assessed by MASI (Melasma Area Severity Index). Pure lactic acid full strength (92%, pH 3.5) was used as a new peeling agent on the left side of the face while Jessner's solution was applied to the right side of the face. The chemical peeling sessions were done every 3 weeks until the desired response was achieved. Follow-up was carried out for 6 months after the last session.

RESULTS

Six patients were defaulted from the study after the first session for unknown reasons. Twenty-four patients completed the study. Twenty (83.33%) were women and four were men (16.67%). Wood's light examination showed increased contrast in all patients of mostly epidermal melasma. The number of sessions ranged from 2 to 5. All patients showed marked improvement as calculated by MASI score before and after treatment, and the response was highly statistically significant. No side effect was recorded in all treated patients.

CONCLUSION

Lactic acid was found to be an effective and safe peeling agent in the treatment of melasma, and it was as effective as Jessner's solution.

Review of photorejuvenation: devices, cosmeceuticals, or both?

BACKGROUND

Both the public and the medical profession have placed a lot of attention on reversal of signs of aging and photodamage, resulting in numerous cosmeceutical products and nonablative laser techniques designed to achieve these results.

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this report is to briefly review both the cosmeceutical products and nonablative laser techniques that appear to be most promising based on published studies. After this review, recommendations for potential enhancement of benefits by combining cosmeceuticals and laser treatments will be explored.

RESULTS

Pulsed dye lasers targeting microvessels, intense pulsed light targeting both melanin and microvessels, and midinfrared lasers targeting dermal water and collagen all appear to have some ability to improve skin texture, color, and wrinkling. Retinoids, vitamin C, alpha-hydroxy acids, and topical growth factors may also stimulate repair mechanisms that result in similar improvements in photodamaged skin.

CONCLUSION

Although supported only by theoretic considerations and anecdotal reports, it seems logical that the concurrent use of appropriate cosmeceuticals with nonablative laser photorejuvenation should result in enhanced benefits.

Stimulation of epidermal calcium gradient loss and increase in TNF-alpha and IL-1alpha expressions by glycolic acid in murine epidermis

In a previous study, we reported that alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, did not induce any significant changes in transepidermal water loss for normal murine skin. The ultrastructural observations, however, showed that the extent of lamellar body exocytosis significantly increased. Because AHA can theoretically decrease the calcium ion concentration by chelation, topical AHA may induce the loss of epidermal calcium gradient by lowering the calcium ion concentration in the granulocytes and, subsequently, induce lamellar body secretion. The aim of this study is to verify that glycolic acid could modulate the epidermal calcium gradient and increase lamellar body exocytosis. Seventy per cent of glycolic acid aqueous solution was applied to the normal skin of hairless mice and biochemical and morphological studies were performed. The loss of epidermal calcium gradient was observed in glycolic-acid-applied skin of hairless mice and subsequent barrier function recovery processes, such as an increase in lamellar body secretion, were observed. The extracellular glycolic acid was found to inhibit the change in intracellular calcium ion concentration in response to extracellular calcium ion concentration changes in the cultured mouse keratinocyte in vitro. The protein and mRNA expressions of tumour necrosis factor-alpha and interleukin-1alpha in the murine epidermis were significantly increased after glycolic acid application. An in vitro study using cultured keratinocytes suggested that glycolic acid could lower the calcium ion concentration, at least in part, through the chelating effects of the glycolic acid on the cationic ions.

Lactic acid as a new therapeutic peeling agent in melasma

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a common disfiguring skin problem. Multiple modalities have been used in the treatment of melasma, such as bleaching agents and chemical peels. Many chemicals have been used in the skin peeling for melasma, such as Jessner's solution and glycolic acid. Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that has not been used before in chemical peeling of melasma.

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of the present work is to evaluate the efficacy and safety of lactic acid in chemical peeling of melasma.

METHODS

This study was conducted at the outpatient Department of Dermatology and Venereology, Baghdad Teaching Hospital, in the period between April 2001 and August 2002. Twenty patients with melasma were included in this study; 18 (90%) were female and 2 (10%) were male, with an age range from 24 to 38 years and a mean of 29 +/- 4.264 SD. Full clinical examination was done of all patients, including Wood's light. The severity of melasma was assessed by the Melasma Area Severity Index (MASI). Pure lactic acid, full strength (92%; pH 3.5), was used as a new peeling agent. The chemical peeling sessions were done every 3 weeks until the desired response was achieved, but not more than six sessions. Follow-up was carried out for 6 months after the last session. All patients had skin type IV; morphologic forms of melasma were a mask-like shape in seven patients (35%), a butterfly shape in nine patients (45%), and a horseshoe shape in 4 patients (20%).

RESULTS

Eight patients defaulted from the study after the first session for unknown reasons. Twelve patients completed the study. Eleven patients were female (91.7%), and one patient was male (8.3%). Their ages ranged from 24 to 38 years, with a mean of 29.25 +/- 4.9 SD. Wood's light examination showed increased contrast in all patients (epidermal melasma). The number of sessions ranged from two to six. All 12 patients showed marked improvement, as calculated by the MASI score before and after treatment, and the response was highly statistically significant. No side effect was recorded in all treated patients.

CONCLUSION

Lactic acid was found to be a new effective and safe peeling agent in the treatment of melasma.

Basal cell proliferation in female SKH-1 mice treated with alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids

Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids are compounds that have been used extensively in cosmetic and dermatological formulations. Clinical and qualitative effects of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids have been well characterized, but little is known about their mechanism of action or acute and chronic biochemical effects. In the present study, we examined the acute proliferative effects of glycolic and salicylic acids on cell proliferation in the epidermis of SKH-1 female mice, using BrdU incorporation as a marker of epidermal proliferation. In preliminary experiments, we observed an increase in the rate of proliferation after 3 days of treatment with 10% glycolic acid-containing cream and this was sustained throughout a 6.5-week (treatment 5 days/week) time course compared with untreated control animals. After each treatment with cream containing glycolic acid there was a wave of proliferation that was maximal 12 to 16 h (significant at p < 0.05) after treatment, followed by a subsequent increase in epidermal thickness at 18 to 20 h (significant at p < 0.05). The effects of the concentration and pH level of glycolic acid- and salicylic acid-containing creams on the rate of proliferation and increases in skin thickness in SKH-1 epidermis were also investigated. We observed a dose-dependent increase in epidermal proliferation of animals treated with either glycolic or salicylic acid. A similar time-dependent response was observed in the epidermal thickness in animals treated with salicylic acid, but not with glycolic acid. Differences in pH (3.5 or 4.0) had no significant effect on either epidermal proliferation or skin thickness. The data that we present here should be useful in characterizing not only the beneficial but also the adverse effects that occur following acute or chronic usage of alpha-hydroxy acids.

Topically applied lactic acid increases spontaneous secretion of vascular endothelial growth factor by human reconstructed epidermis

BACKGROUND

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are widely used for the treatment of hyperkeratotic skin disorders and photodamaged skin.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the effect of lactic acid (LA) on the secretion of cytokines by keratinocytes (KCs) of human reconstructed epidermis.

METHODS

Creams containing 1.5%, 3% or 5% LA or vehicle controls were topically applied on to human epidermal equivalents (EEs). After 24 h, EEs were analysed for morphology and for the presence of apoptotic cells. Secretion of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), angiogenin (ANG) and interleukin (IL)-8 was measured in the supernatants by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay.

RESULTS

LA led to a concentration-dependent increase in apoptotic cells as determined by cell morphology and terminal deoxynucleotidyl transferase-mediated deoxyuridine triphosphate nick end-labelling. VEGF secretion was increased 2.5- and 2.8-fold (P < 0.05) over vehicle control after treatment with 1.5% and 3% LA, respectively. No significant increase in VEGF secretion was detected with 5% LA. In contrast to VEGF, secretion of ANG was decreased by LA in a concentration-dependent manner (0.5-fold for 5% LA; P < 0.01). No significant changes in IL-8 secretion were found with any of the concentrations tested.

CONCLUSIONS

Our data demonstrate that the topical application of AHAs modulates the secretion of cytokines by KCs. Regulation of KC-derived growth factors and cytokines by AHAs might represent a mechanism contributing to their therapeutic effects in disorders such as photoageing.

The effects of topical alpha-hydroxyacids on the normal skin barrier of hairless mice

BACKGROUND

alpha-hydroxyacids (AHA), such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, have recently been used in cosmetic and dermatological formulations. However, the mechanisms of action of these substances have not been well documented.

OBJECTIVES

This study was done to investigate the effects of AHA on the skin barrier of hairless mice and to clarify the contribution of AHA to the formation and secretion of the lamellar bodies (LB), which are known to be the critical structure for barrier function in the epidermis.

METHODS

5% Lactic acid and 5% glycolic acid were applied to normal skin of the mice daily for 14 days.

RESULTS

Changes in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), capacitance and electron microscopic findings of the epidermis of hairless mice were compared with those in which only the vehicle was applied.

CONCLUSIONS

There were no significant differences in TEWL, capacitance or epidermal thickness between the epidermis of the mice to which AHA or vehicle only had been applied. On electron micrographs, the normal epidermis to which AHA had been applied showed an increase in the number and secretion of LB and a decrease in the number of stratum corneum (SC) layers in comparison with the epidermis to which the vehicle only had been applied. The lipid layers of the SC intercellular spaces and calcium gradient in both the epidermis with application of AHA and that with vehicle only were normal. These results suggest that AHA, in low concentration (5%), may improve the skin barrier in hairless mice by inducing enhanced desquamation, and by increasing the number and secretion of LB without increasing TEWL.