Cosmetics for the elderly

The Impact of Phospholipid-Based Liquid Crystals' Microstructure on Stability and Release Profile of Ascorbyl Palmitate and Skin Performance

The drug delivery potential of liquid crystals (LCs) for ascorbyl palmitate (AP) was assessed, with the emphasis on the AP stability and release profile linked to microstructural rearrangement taking place along the dilution line being investigated by a set of complementary techniques. With high AP degradation observed after 56 days, two stabilization approaches, i.e., the addition of vitamin C or increasing AP concentration, were proposed. As a rule, LC samples with the lowest water content resulted in better AP stability (up to 52% of nondegraded AP in LC1 after 28 days) and faster API release (~18% in 8 h) as compared to the most diluted sample (29% of nondegraded AP in LC8 after 28 days, and up to 12% of AP released in 8 h). In addition, LCs exhibited a skin barrier-strengthening effect with up to 1.2-fold lower transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and 1.9-fold higher skin hydration observed in vitro on the porcine skin model. Although the latter cannot be linked to LCs' composition or specific microstructure, the obtained insight into LCs' microstructure contributed greatly to our understanding of AP positioning inside the system and its release profile, also influencing the overall LCs' performance after dermal application.

Father figure: Study of the age progression process from old pictures and its value in forensic sciences

The application of age progression to the search for missing persons demonstrates its usefulness in being able to reconstruct the aged face based on the current age of a person who has been missing for many years. Age progression takes into account facial physiognomic elements and their changes over time. Based on these premises, the present study aims to investigate the evolution of somatic features, from childhood to adulthood, of one of the authors' father using photos at different ages of him. Sixteen photos were collected depicting an individual of Italian origin between the age of 1 and 72. The photos were processed in Adobe© Photoshop software to graphically highlight the shape development of individual physiognomic elements. The shape of the face, eyebrows, eyes, nose, mouth, and cheeks were analysed in detail using a morphological approach. The ageing processes that occurred in this case were discussed on the basis of the literature. The present study demonstrates the in-depth analysis of the dynamics of facial growth in a single case. Nonetheless, aging is different for each individual, so further studies are necessary to observe facial development on as many subjects as possible.

Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skin

BACKGROUND

Human skin undergoes distinct changes throughout the aging process, based on both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. In a process called photoaging, UVB irradiation leads to upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase-1, which then causes collagen degradation and premature aging. Mixtures of medicinal plants have traditionally been used as drugs in oriental medicine. Based on the previously reported antioxidant properties of Panax ginseng Meyer and Crataegus pinnatifida, we hypothesized that the mixture of P. ginseng Meyer and C. pinnatifida (GC) would have protective effects against skin aging.

METHODS

Anti-aging activity was examined both in human dermal fibroblasts under UVB irradiation by using Western blot analysis and in healthy human skin by examining noninvasive measurements.

RESULTS

In vitro studies showed that GC improved procollagen type I expression and diminished matrix metalloproteinase-1 secretion. Based on noninvasive measurements, skin roughness values, including total roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), smoothness depth and average roughness (R3), and global photodamage scores were improved by GC application. Moreover, GC ameliorated the high values of smoothness depth (R4), which means that GC reduced loss of skin moisture.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that GC can prevent aging by inhibiting wrinkle formation and increasing moisture in the human skin.

Improvement of the facial evenness of leave-on skincare products by a modified application method in Chinese women

OBJECTIVE

To understand the habits of Chinese women applying leave-on skincare products (LOSCP) and to improve female facial evenness of anti-ageing cosmetics through modifying facial skincare smear ways.

METHODS

A questionnaire on the method of applying LOSCP was distributed to 60 women with habit of using LOSCP. Their facial images before and after applying LOSCP were taken, and their positioning and grey value were used to analyse the effects of different applying methods on the uniformity of facial LOSCP.

RESULTS

LOSCP including anti-ageing cosmetics have been widely used among Chinese women for a long time. However, some women do not concern how to properly apply LOSCP. In our survey, the main focal points of the face are forehead, malar region, cheek, mouth corners and chin when they looking into the mirror, and mouth corners and inner canthus are often overlooked when applying cosmetic products. The image analysis found that after applying the LOSCP, the greyscale of the forehead, glabella, malar region, upper lip region and jaw changed significantly whereas that of canthus, mouth corners and lateral cheek region was not significantly different. Applying an improved smear method (11-point method)could significantly increase the grey values of various facial areas.

CONCLUSION

The way of Chinese women applying LOSCP may result in facial unevenness of skin products. By improving facial skincare smear method, one can make the products even in all facial areas, thereby ensuring the efficacy of anti-ageing cosmetics. Thus, further improvement and education regarding skincare is required.

Anti-aging cosmetics: facts and controversies

The authors review ageing in its extrinsic and intrinsic mechanisms, as well as the therapies available for improving its effects, and present some of the facts and controversies related to anti-aging cosmetics.

Histopathology and X-ray microanalysis of foreign material on facial keratoses

Opaque exogenous material was frequently observed on the surface of keratoses during routine sign out by one of us (H.K.). To investigate this material further, 300 consecutive seborrheic keratoses were reviewed: 100 cases from the face of women, 100 cases from the face of men, and 100 cases from the trunk of men and women. All cases were evaluated by light microscopy for the presence and quantity of exogenous material, and 14 cases were studied by x-ray microanalysis to assess its composition. The material was present on 54% of facial keratoses from predominantly older women (mean age 67 years), 5% of facial keratoses from men, and 9% of truncal keratoses from men and women. The x-ray microanalysis showed the presence of a variety of elements, including titanium (13 cases), silicon (12 cases), iron (9 cases), aluminum (8 cases), magnesium (8 cases), zinc (4 cases), barium (2 cases), and bismuth (2 cases). We believe that the exogenous material represents cosmetic products such as colored facial cosmetics, sunscreens, and moisturizers. Further, because the exogenous material was found predominantly on facial keratoses of older women, the presence of this material in a specimen may serve as a clue to the patient's gender, age, and biopsy site.

Elderly skin and its rejuvenation: products and procedures for the aging skin

In the last few decades, there has been a substantial increase in the population of people over 60 years of age. Most of them maintain a good general health and physical activity and fitness. For these individuals there is a good number of dermatologic procedures, medications, and cosmetics that can be prescribed to improve the aspect of skin aging, providing an improvement in their self-esteem and quality of life as a result of their better look. We will discuss the mechanisms of skin aging, and the procedures and substances used to minimize its deleterious effects, such as sunscreens, estrogens, chemical peels, toxin botulinum, fillers and surgical procedures, among others. The use of makeup and the adverse reactions to cosmetics will also be mentioned.

Prevention and treatment of skin aging

Skin aging is a complex biological process that is a consequence of both intrinsic or genetically programmed aging that occurs with time, and extrinsic aging caused by environmental factors. The dramatic increase in the aging population and the psychosocial impact of skin aging has created a demand for effective interventions. The advances that have been made in the past 25 years in our understanding of the clinical, biochemical, and molecular changes associated with aging have led to the development of many different approaches to reduce, postpone, and in some cases, repair the untoward effects of intrinsic programmed aging and extrinsic environmental injury.

Combination of chemical peelings with botulinum toxin injections and dermal fillers

BACKGROUND

Chemical peelings are one of the most powerful and diverse tools for skin rejuvenation. Depending on the chemical used, peelings are classified as superficial, medium, and deep. The depth of the peeling must be adjusted to the depth of the pathological process to be corrected. Deeper peels can eliminate pigmentary spots and wrinkles but are associated with longer recovery time. Chemical peels can be used in conjunction with other nonsurgical methods for skin rejuvenation such as botulinum toxin A (BTX-A) and dermal fillers. Surprisingly, descriptions of such combinations are rare in the current medical literature.

AIMS

To review and describe our experience with a combination of chemical peels with other nonsurgical procedures for facial skin rejuvenation, such as BTX-A injections and dermal fillers.

PATIENTS

Patients who came to the clinic for cosmetic treatments were assessed clinically and photographically to follow up the facial skin improvement following combination treatments.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS

By combining chemical peels with dermal fillers and BTX-A injections synergistic beneficial effect is achieved. These rejuvenating procedures significantly increase the satisfaction rate of our patients and are relatively easy to adopt by any practicing dermatologist.

The Effect of Full-Face Broadband Light Treatments Alone and in Combination With Bilateral Crow's Feet Botulinum Toxin Type A Chemodenervation

BACKGROUND

Broadband light (BBL; Intense Pulsed Light; Lumenis Ltd., Yokneam, Israel) is a powerful, nonablative, light-based technology that targets melanin and hemoglobin and stimulates the formation of collagen and elastin. Botulinum toxin type A (BTX-A; BOTOX; Allergan Inc., Irvine, CA) treatment of the lateral periocular region relaxes the vertical fibers of the orbicularis oculi and results in softening of the lateral orbital crow's feet rhytides and widening of the palpebral aperture.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the effects of full-face BBL in combination with BTX-A and BBL alone in female subjects with Fitzpatrick I-III skin types, Glogau II-III rhytides, and significant associated facial lentigines and telangiectasia.

METHODS

This was a prospective, randomized study of 30 women with moderate to severe crow's feet rhytides. Half of the subjects were treated with BTX-A and BBL and the other half with BBL alone. Their response was assessed clinically and photographically. Skin biopsies of the temporal skin were taken from two subjects in each group and were stained with Masson trichrome.

RESULTS

Patients treated with a combination of BTX-A and BBL experienced a better response to treatment, both at rest and on maximum smile, as well as a slightly improved response in associated lentigines, telangiectasia, pore size, and facial skin texture compared with patients who received BBL treatment alone. Skin biopsies showed an increase in dermal collagen in each group.

CONCLUSIONS

The patients in this study benefited from both treatments. Although BBL led to a remarkable improvement in full-face telangiectasias, lentigines, and skin texture, the improvement increased in all categories with combination therapy. In addition, an added improvement in the full-face aesthetic with both BTX-A and BBL therapy combined was obvious. These results suggest that both treatments--although evidently complementary--may also act synergistically to produce optimal clinical effects, revolutionizing the treatment of facial aging.