Assessment of the potential irritancy of oleic acid on human skin: Evaluation in vitro and in vivo

Time-Dependent Differences in the Effects of Oleic Acid and Oleyl Alcohol on the Human Skin Barrier

Oleic acid and oleyl alcohol are commonly used permeation and penetration enhancers to facilitate topical drug delivery. Here, we aimed to better understand the mechanism of their enhancing effects in terms of their interactions with the human skin barrier using diclofenac diethylamine (DIC-DEA), a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug for topical pain management. Oleic acid promoted DIC-DEA permeation through ex vivo human skin more rapidly than oleyl alcohol (both applied at 0.75%) due to fluidization of stratum corneum lipids as revealed by infrared spectroscopy. After 12 h, the effect of these enhancers on DIC-DEA permeation leveled off, fluidization was no longer evident, and skin permeabilization was mainly due to the formation of fluid enhancer-rich domains. Contrary to oleyl alcohol, oleic acid adversely affected two indicators of the skin barrier integrity, transepidermal water loss and skin electrical impedance. The content of oleyl alcohol in the stratum corneum was lower than that of oleic acid (even 12 h after the enhancers were removed from the skin surface), but it caused higher DIC-DEA retention in both epidermis and dermis compared to oleic acid. The effects of oleyl alcohol and oleic acid on DIC-DEA permeation and retention in the skin were similar after a single and repeated application (4 doses every 12 h). Thus, oleyl alcohol offers several advantages over oleic acid for topical drug delivery.

Kampo herbal ointments for skin wound healing

The management of skin wound healing problems is a public health issue in which traditional herbal medicines could play a determining role. Kampo medicine, with three traditionally used ointments, provides interesting solutions for these dermatological issues. These ointments named Shiunkō, Chuōkō, and Shinsen taitsukō all have in common a lipophilic base of sesame oil and beeswax from which herbal crude drugs are extracted according to several possible manufacturing protocols. This review article brings together existing data on metabolites involved in the complex wound healing process. Among them are representatives of the botanical genera Angelica, Lithospermum, Curcuma, Phellodendron, Paeonia, Rheum, Rehmannia, Scrophularia, or Cinnamomum. Kampo provides numerous metabolites of interest, whose content in crude drugs is very sensitive to different biotic and abiotic factors and to the different extraction protocols used for these ointments. If Kampo medicine is known for its singular standardization, ointments are not well known, and research on these lipophilic formulas has not been developed due to the analytical difficulties encountered in biological and metabolomic analysis. Further research considering the complexities of these unique herbal ointments could contribute to a rationalization of Kampo's therapeutic uses for wound healing.

Performance of Oleic Acid and Soybean Oil in the Preparation of Oil-in-Water Microemulsions for Encapsulating a Highly Hydrophobic Molecule

This work analyzes the dispersion of a highly hydrophobic molecule, (9Z)-N-(1,3-dihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl)octadec-9-enamide (ceramide-like molecule), with cosmetic and pharmaceutical interest, by exploiting oil-in-water microemulsions. Two different oils, oleic acid and soybean oil, were tested as an oil phase while mixtures of laureth-5-carboxylic acid (Akypo) and 2-propanol were used for the stabilization of the dispersions. This allowed us to obtain stable aqueous-based formulations with a relatively reduced content of oily phase (around 3% w/w), that may enhance the bioavailability of this molecule by its solubilization in nanometric oil droplets (with a size range of 30–80 nm), that allow the incorporation of a ceramide-like molecule of up to 3% w/w, to remain stable for more than a year. The nanometric size of the droplet containing the active ingredient and the stability of the formulations provide the basis for evaluating the efficiency of microemulsions in preparing formulations to enhance the distribution and availability of ceramide-like molecules, helping to reach targets in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

Host Responses in an Ex Vivo Human Skin Model Challenged With Malassezia sympodialis

Malassezia species are a major part of the normal mycobiota and colonize mainly sebum-rich skin regions of the body. This group of fungi cause a variety of infections such as pityriasis versicolor, folliculitis, and fungaemia. In particular, Malassezia sympodialis and its allergens have been associated with non-infective inflammatory diseases such as seborrheic dermatitis and atopic eczema. The aim of this study was to investigate the host response to M. sympodialis on oily skin (supplemented with oleic acid) and non-oily skin using an ex vivo human skin model. Host-pathogen interactions were analyzed by SEM, histology, gene expression, immunoassays and dual species proteomics. The skin response to M. sympodialis was characterized by increased expression of the genes encoding β-defensin 3 and RNase7, and by high levels of S100 proteins in tissue. Supplementation of oleic acid onto skin was associated with direct contact of yeasts with keratinocytes and epidermal damage. In oily conditions, there was increased expression of IL18 but no expression of antimicrobial peptide genes in the skin’s response to M. sympodialis. In supernatants from inoculated skin plus oleic acid, TNFα, IL-6, and IL1-β levels were decreased and IL-18 levels were significantly increased.

How irritant are n-propanol and isopropanol? - A systematic review

BACKGROUND

The use of alcoholic-based hand rubs (ABHRs) is an important tool for hand hygiene, especially in times of the COVID-19 pandemic. Possible irritant effects of ABHR may prevent their use by persons at risk of infection.

METHODS

This systematic review is based on a PubMed search of articles published between January 2000 and September 2019 in English and German, and a manual search, related to the irritation potential of alcohol-based disinfectants restricted to n-propanol (1-propanol) and its structural isomer isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol, 2-propanol).

RESULTS

The majority of the included studies show a low irritation potential of n-propanol alone. However, recent studies provide evidence for significant barrier damage effects of repeated exposure to 60% n-propanol in healthy, as well as atopic skin in vivo. The synergistic response of combined irritants, (ie, a combination of n-propanol or isopropanol with detergents such as sodium lauryl sulfate) is greater, compared with a quantitatively identical application of the same irritant alone.

CONCLUSION

While recent studies indicate a higher risk of skin irritation for n-propanol and isopropanol than reported in the past, this risk still seems to be lower than that for frequent handwashing with detergents, as recommended by some to prevent COVID-19 infections.

The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care

Botanical oils have a long history of traditional use and are routinely applied to skin care. The focus of this review is to contrast the functionality of skin oils versus the differential biological and toxicological effects of major plant oils, and to correlate them to their compositional changes. In total, over 70 vegetable oils were clustered according to their lipid composition to promote awareness of health practitioners and botanical product manufacturers for the safety and efficacy of oil-based interventions based on their fatty acid profiles. Since multiple skin disorders result in depletion or disturbance of skin lipids, a tailored mixture of multiple botanical oils to simultaneously maintain natural skin-barrier function, promote repair and regeneration of wounded tissues, and achieve corrective modulation of immune disorders may be required. As bioactive constituents of botanical oils enter the human body by oral or topical application and often accumulate in measurable blood concentrations, there is also a critical need for monitoring their hazardous effects to reduce the possible over-added toxicity and promote maximal normal tissue sparing. The review also provides a useful tool to improve efficacy and functionality of fatty acid profiles in cosmetic applications.

Curcumin-Loaded Mesoporous Silica Particles as Wound-Healing Agent: An In vivo Study

BACKGROUND

Curcumin likely has wound-healing properties, but its poor pharmacokinetic attributes inhibit its potential. To overcome these limitations, a novel nanoformulation was previously developed, wherein curcumin was loaded into mesoporous silica particles.

OBJECTIVES

The objective of the study is to assess the efficiency of this nanocurcumin formulation as a wound-healing agent in an animal model.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Curcumin was loaded onto mesoporous silica particles. Eighteen healthy, test-naive male Wistar rats were randomly separated into two groups of 9: Group 1 (control) rats were treated topically with a standard drug (sulfadiazine) and Group 2 with 1% curcumin formulation. A circular excision wound was made, and topical application was performed twice a day. The excision diameters were measured on days 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18 and 21 of treatment. Three rats from each group were sacrificed on days 7, 14 and 21, and a cross-section from skin specimen in the excision injury was obtained for histological assessment of inflammation, angiogenesis, fibroblast proliferation, presence of collagen and reepithelization.

RESULTS

Wound contraction percentage in rats treated with curcumin nanoformulation was nonsignificantly higher than that in the control group (P > 0.05). In both groups, inflammatory reactions considerably reduced by day 21 of treatment, the angiogenesis process was almost complete by day 7, fibroblast proliferation noticeably rose by day 14, and a high degree of wound reepithelization was achieved by day 21, with no significant differences between the groups. Interestingly, by day 21, the level of collagen significantly increased in curcumin nanoformulation-treated rats compared with those treated with sulfadiazine.

CONCLUSIONS

Curcumin nanoformulation likely enhanced wound repair by inhibiting the inflammatory response, stimulating angiogenesis, inducing fibroblast proliferation as well as enhancing reepithelization and synthesis of collagen. Therefore, the curcumin nanoformulation used in this study may have potential as a wound-healing ethnomedicine.

Microemulsion Formulations for the Transdermal Delivery of Lapachol

This project was carried out to investigate the feasibility of using microemulsions for transdermal delivery of lapachol. From the screening of surfactants and oils, a range of microemulsions were developed using oleic acid, a mixture of Cremophor EL and Tween 20 and water. The solubility of lapachol was determined in these ingredients and in the formulated microemulsions. The microemulsions were characterised using cross-polarising light microscopy, their electrical conductivity, pH, zeta potential and rheology were analysed, and they were also investigated using small-angle X-ray scattering and differential scanning calorimetry. Ex vivo studies were performed using porcine ear skin and Franz diffusion cells to investigate the permeation and retention of lapachol. Systems containing different concentrations of Cremophor EL (8.4-41.6%), Tween 20 (5.4-41.6%) and oleic acid (12-31.9%) are able to form microemulsions. Lapachol was delivered more effectively through the skin from all of the microemulsions tested than by the control (oleic acid). These studies indicated that microemulsions incorporating lapachol were formed successfully and that these enhanced drug delivery and retention in the skin. Microemulsion systems may, therefore, provide promising vehicles for percutaneous delivery of lapachol.

Coenzyme Q10-Loaded Fish Oil-Based Bigel System: Probing the Delivery Across Porcine Skin and Possible Interaction with Fish Oil Fatty Acids

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a vitamin-like oil-soluble molecule that has anti-oxidant and anti-ageing effects. To determine the most optimal CoQ10 delivery vehicle, CoQ10 was solubilised in both water and fish oil, and formulated into hydrogel, oleogel and bigel. Permeability of CoQ10 from each formulation across porcine ear skin was then evaluated. Furthermore, the effects of the omega-3 fatty eicosapentaenoic (EPA) and docosahexaenoic (DHA) acids from fish oil on skin permeation were investigated by means of nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and computerised molecular modelling docking experiments. The highest drug permeation was achieved with the bigel formulation that proved to be the most effective vehicle in delivering CoQ10 across the skin membrane due to a combination of its adhesive, viscous and lipophilic properties. Furthermore, the interactions between CoQ10 and fatty acids revealed by NMR and molecular modelling experiments likely accounted for skin permeability of CoQ10. NMR data showed dose-dependent changes in proton chemical shifts in EPA and DHA. Molecular modelling revealed complex formation and large binding energies between fatty acids and CoQ10. This study advances the knowledge about bigels as drug delivery vehicles and highlights the use of NMR and molecular docking studies for the prediction of the influence of drug-excipient relationships at the molecular level.

Bioadhesive Drug Delivery System for Enhancing the Permeability of a BCS Class III Drug via Hot-Melt Extrusion Technology

As the buccal route of administration has the ability to avoid the GI tract and first-pass effect by directing the absorption toward the cheek area, the bioavailability of BCS class III drugs can be increased through this route. Only a handful of studies have been conducted using oleic acid as a permeation enhancer in any transbuccal drug delivery system. Therefore, the objectives of this novel study were to develop a buccal tablet using two concentrations of oleic acid for a model BCS class III drug via hot-melt extrusion technology and to investigate the effects of oleic acid on the physicochemical properties of the tablet. The model drug selected was ondansetron hydrochloride. Formulations consisting of polymers (hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and polyethylene oxide) and two concentrations of oleic acid were prepared by hot-melt extrusion techniques. A melting point depression of the drug was obtained in the extruded granules as seen by the DSC thermograms. The ex vivo permeation studies showed a greater permeation of the drug in the formulation containing 10% oleic acid (F2) as compared to the formulation containing 20% oleic acid (F1), although not statistically significant. The in vitro bioadhesion studies, swelling studies, and surface pH measurements of the tablets were also conducted. In conclusion, permeation studies exhibited the potential of oleic acid as a buccal permeation enhancer as a significant permeation of the drug was obtained in the formulations. Hot-melt extrusion technology was successfully employed to formulate buccal tablets of ondansetron hydrochloride.

Investigating transdermal delivery of vitamin D3

Transdermal delivery of therapeutic amounts of vitamin D3 is proposed to overcome its variable oral bioavailability, especially for people who suffer from fat malabsorption. The main challenge for this delivery route is to overcome the barrier properties of skin, especially for very lipophilic compounds such as vitamin D3. In this study, the effect of different penetration enhancers, such as oleic acid, dodecylamine, ethanol, oleic acid in propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, and oleyl alcohol in propylene glycol were evaluated in vitro for their effectiveness in delivering vitamin D3 through polyamide filter, polydimethylsiloxane membrane, and porcine skin. A diffusion cell was used to study the transdermal permeability of vitamin D3. Ointment formulations of vitamin D3 were prepared containing the most widely used penetration enhancers, oleic acid, and dodecylamine. The ointment containing oleic acid as chemical penetration enhancer did not improve delivery compared to control. On the other hand, the formulation containing dodecylamine as a penetration enhancer did improve the transdermal delivery of vitamin D3. However, statistical significance and an amount high enough for nutritional supplementation purposes were reached only when the skin was pretreated with 50% ethanol. In these conditions, the ointment delivered an amount of 760-ng vitamin D3 per cm(2) of skin. The research shows promise that transdermal delivery could be an effective administration route for vitamin D3 when ethanol and dodecylamine are used as penetration enhancers.

Microemulsion-based antifungal gel delivery to nail for the treatment of onychomycosis: formulation, optimization, and efficacy studies

Onychomycosis is the most common nail disease affecting nail plate and nail bed. Onychomycosis causes onycholysis which creates cavity between the nail plate and nail bed, where drug formulations could be applied, providing a direct contact of drug with the nail bed facilitating drug delivery on the infected area. The purpose of the present study was to design and evaluate the potential of microemulsion-based gel as colloidal carrier for itraconazole for delivery into onycholytic nails for effective treatment of onychomycosis. Itraconazole-loaded microemulsions were prepared and optimized using D-optimal design. The microemulsion containing 6.24 % oil, 36 % Smix, and 57.76 % water was selected as the optimized batch (MEI). The globule size and drug loading of the optimized batch were 48.2 nm and 12.13 mg/ml, respectively. Diffused reflectance FTIR studies were performed to study drug-excipient incompatibility. Ex vivo permeation studies were carried out using bovine hoof and human cadaver skin as models for nail plate and nail bed, respectively. Microemulsion-based itraconazole gel (MBGI) showed better penetration and retention in human skin as well as bovine hoof as compared to commercial preparation (market formulation, MFI). The cumulative amount of itraconazole permeated from the MBGI after 12 h was 73.39 ± 3.55 μg cm(-2) which was 1.8 times more than MF. MBGI showed significantly higher ex vivo antifungal activity (P < 0.05) against Candida albicans and Trichophyton rubrum when compared to MFI. Stability studies showed that MBGI was stable at refrigeration and room temperature for 3 months. It was concluded that drug-loaded gel could be a promising formulation for effective treatment of onychomycosis.

Acne is an inflammatory disease and alterations of sebum composition initiate acne lesions

Hyperseborrhoea has been considered as a major aetiopathogenetic factor of acne. However, changes in sebaceous gland activity not only correlate with seborrhoea but also with alterations in sebum fatty acid composition. Current findings indicate that sebum lipid fractions with proinflammatory properties and inflammatory tissue cascades are associated in the process of the development of acne lesions. The oxidant/antioxidant ratio of the skin surface lipids and alterations of lipid composition are the main players in the induction of acne inflammation. Nutrition may influence the development of seborrhoea, the fractions of sebum lipids and acne. Acne is an inflammatory disease probably triggered, among others, by proinflammatory sebum lipid fractions.

Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care

Natural oils are advocated and used throughout the world as part of neonatal skin care, but there is an absence of evidence to support this practice. The goal of the current study was to ascertain the effect of olive oil and sunflower seed oil on the biophysical properties of the skin. Nineteen adult volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis were recruited into two randomized forearm-controlled mechanistic studies. The first cohort applied six drops of olive oil to one forearm twice daily for 5 weeks. The second cohort applied six drops of olive oil to one forearm and six drops of sunflower seed oil to the other twice daily for 4 weeks. The effect of the treatments was evaluated by determining stratum corneum integrity and cohesion, intercorneocyte cohesion, moisturization, skin-surface pH, and erythema. Topical application of olive oil for 4 weeks caused a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema in volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis. Sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity, did not cause erythema, and improved hydration in the same volunteers. In contrast to sunflower seed oil, topical treatment with olive oil significantly damages the skin barrier, and therefore has the potential to promote the development of, and exacerbate existing, atopic dermatitis. The use of olive oil for the treatment of dry skin and infant massage should therefore be discouraged. These findings challenge the unfounded belief that all natural oils are beneficial for the skin and highlight the need for further research.

The itchy scalp--scratching for an explanation

Scalp pruritus is a common complaint that is considered a diagnostically and therapeutically challenging situation. Scalp skin has a unique neural structure that contains densely innervated hair follicles and dermal vasculature. In spite of the recent advances in our understanding of itch pathophysiology, scalp itching has not been studied as yet. In this review, we summarize the current knowledge on the neurobiology of scalp and hair follicles as well as itch mediators and provide a putative mechanism for scalp itch with special emphasis on neuroanatomy and pathophysiology.

A novel transdermal delivery system for the anti-inflammatory lumiracoxib: influence of oleic acid on in vitro percutaneous absorption and in vivo potential cutaneous irritation

Transdermal delivery of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs may be an interesting strategy for delivering these drugs to the diseased site, but it would be ineffective due to low skin permeability. We investigated whether oleic acid (OA), a lipid penetration enhancer in poloxamer gels named poloxamer-based delivery systems (PBDS), can improve lumiracoxib (LM) delivery to/through the skin. The LM partition coefficient (K) studies were carried out in order to evaluate the drug lipophilicity grade (K(octanol/buffer)), showing values >1 which demonstrated its high lipophilicity. Both in vitro percutaneous absorption and skin retention studies of LM were measured in the presence or absence of OA (in different concentrations) in PBDS using porcine ear skin. The flux of in vitro percutaneous absorption and in vitro retention of LM in viable epidermis increased in the presence of 10.0% (w/w) OA in 25.0% (w/w) poloxamer gel. In vivo cutaneous irritation potential was carried out in rabbits showing that this formulation did not provide primary or cumulative cutaneous irritability in animal model. The results showed that 25.0% poloxamer gel containing 10.0% OA is potential transdermal delivery system for LM.

Development and evaluation of the essential oil from Magnolia fargesii for enhancing the transdermal absorption of theophylline and cianidanol

To improve the skin permeation of theophylline and cianidanol ((+)-catechin), the essential oil of Magnolia fargesii was evaluated using in-vitro and in-vivo permeation techniques. Oxygenated monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes are the major components of M. fargesii essential oil. The in-vitro permeation of theophylline and cianidanol was significantly enhanced after treatment with M. fargesii essential oil. The essential oil increased the in-vivo skin deposition of cianidanol but not theophylline. On the other hand, in-vivo microdialysis showed a higher subcutaneous theophylline amount after essential oil treatment. In-vitro cell viability and prostaglandin E2 release by skin keratinocytes indicated that there was low or negligible cytotoxicity by M. fargesii essential oil. The in-vivo skin tolerance study determined by transepidermal water loss and colorimetry confirmed that no irritation of the skin was detected when using M. fargesii essential oil.

Biocompatible wound dressings based on chemically degradable triblock copolymer hydrogels

The synthesis of a series of thermo-responsive ABA triblock copolymers in which the outer A blocks comprise poly(2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate) and the central B block is poly(2-(methacryloyloxy)ethyl phosphorylcholine) is achieved using atom transfer radical polymerization. These novel triblock copolymers form thermo-reversible physical gels with critical gelation temperatures and mechanical properties that are highly dependent on the copolymer composition and concentration. TEM studies on dried dilute copolymer solutions indicate the presence of colloidal aggregates, which is consistent with micellar gel structures. This hypothesis is consistent with the observation that incorporating a central disulfide bond within the B block leads to thermo-responsive gels that can be efficiently degraded using mild reductants such as dithiothreitol (DTT) over time scales of minutes at 37 degrees C. Moreover, the rate of gel dissolution increases at higher DTT/disulfide molar ratios. Finally, these copolymer gels are shown to be highly biocompatible. Only a modest reduction in proliferation was observed for monolayers of primary human dermal fibroblasts, with no evidence for cytotoxicity. Moreover, when placed directly on 3D tissue-engineered skin, these gels had no significant effect on cell viability. Thus, we suggest that these thermo-responsive biodegradable copolymer gels may have potential applications as wound dressings.

Delivery of ethinylestradiol from film forming polymeric solutions across human epidermis in vitro and in vivo in pigs

Film forming polymeric solutions may present an alternative to the common transdermal dosage forms such as patches or gels. To evaluate the potential of these systems for transdermal drug delivery the permeation of ethinylestradiol from four formulations with different polymers was tested across heat separated human epidermis. The formulation with the best results was then modified by incorporating chemical enhancers to further increase the efficiency of the delivery system. Finally, drug delivery from the developed film forming systems was compared to a commercially available transdermal patch in vitro as well as in vivo in pigs. Among the tested preparations the formulation with polyurethane-14-AMP-acrylates copolymer (DynamX) showed the highest ethinylestradiol permeation. The drug transport was further increased with the incorporation of oleic acid as penetration enhancer, especially when used in combination with propylene glycol. The enhancing effect of oleic acid/propylene glycol was concentration-dependent and increased disproportionately with rising enhancer content. The film forming solution showed a higher ethinylestradiol permeation through heat separated human epidermis than the commercial EVRA patch in vitro and achieved measurable plasma concentrations of ethinylestradiol in vivo in pigs. These promising results encourage the further development of film forming polymeric solutions as novel transdermal dosage form.

Enhancement of transdermal delivery of theophylline using microemulsion vehicle

A microemulsion vehicle had been studied as a possible matrix for transdermal delivery of theophylline. The existence of microemulsion regions were investigated in pseudo-ternary phase diagrams, and various microemulsion formulations were prepared using oleic acid, Cremophor RH40/Labrasol (1:2) and water. The optimal formulation of the microemulsion was evaluated in vitro using Franz diffusion cells. The droplet size of microemulsion was characterized by photo correlation spectroscopy. Pharmacokinetic study in vivo was conducted using rabbits, and the results indicated that AUC(0-->infinity) of transdermal administration was 1.65-fold higher than that of oral solution administration. These studies showed that microemulsion system of theophylline might be promising vehicles for the transdermal delivery of theophylline.

In vitro skin irritation: facts and future. State of the art review of mechanisms and models

The skin is the main target tissue for exogenous noxes, protecting us from harmful environmental hazards, UV-irradiation and endogenous water loss. It is composed of three layers, whereas the outermost epidermis is a squamous epithelium that mainly consists of keratinocytes. These cells execute a terminal differentiation, which finally results in the assembly of the stratum corneum. This layer, consisting of cornified keratinocytes, is an effective barrier against a vast number of substances. Apart of this, keratinocytes play crucial roles in the immune surveillance and the initiation, modulation and regulation of inflammation in the epidermis. Regarding cutaneous inflammatory reactions, skin irritation is one of the most common adverse effect in humans. For reasons of human safety assessment new chemicals are still evaluated for irritant potentials by application to animals followed by visible changes such as erythema and oedema. Testing for skin irritation in animals potentially cause them pain and discomfort. Furthermore, the results are not always predictive for those found in humans. In order to replace animal testing and to improve the prediction of irritants, the cosmetic and toiletry industry, in Europe represented by Colipa, develops and uses several alternative in vitro test systems. In this respect, the use of in vitro reconstructed organotypic skin equivalents are mostly favored, because of their increasingly close resemblance to human skin. Due to ethical and scientific questions and on account of the 7th amendment of the European Council Directive 76/768/EEC, the authors see the requirement to drive the development of alternative tests for irritants. Therefore, this article centres on cosmetic ingredients and provides the readership an overview of the state of art of cellular mechanisms of skin irritation and summarizes the results of the commonly used skin equivalents to evaluate irritation in vitro.

LAV694, a new antiproliferative agent showing improved skin tolerability vs. clinical standards for the treatment of actinic keratosis

The skin tolerability of the tubulin polymerisation inhibitor LAV694 was compared to that of 5% 5-fluorouracil (5-FU) and 0.5% podophyllotoxin in vitro using a human reconstructed epidermis (HRE), and in vivo using minipigs. Topical treatment of HRE for 1 or 3 days with a 0.2, 0.6 or 1% LAV694 cream or the placebo showed no signs of irritation in terms of morphology, cell viability (lactate dehydrogenase leakage) or interleukin-8 mRNA expression and release. 5-FU increased interleukin-8 production and induced morphological signs of irritation. The substances were also applied under occlusion to the back of two minipigs, twice daily, for 9 days to allow intraindividual comparison of skin effects and tolerability. Skin reactions were monitored by visual scoring, chromometry, pro-inflammatory activity, cell cycle and apoptosis by RT-PCR, laser scanning cytometry and histopathological examination of biopsies. Application of podophyllotoxin and 5-FU had to be stopped on days 4 and 8, respectively, due to severe skin lesions. LAV694 (1%) induced only moderate skin reddening after 9 days. 5-FU and podophyllotoxin, but not LAV694, increased mRNA expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines. LAV694 arrested keratinocytes in the M phase of the cell cycle and apoptosis was detected histologically in the basal layer. LAV694 increased the expression of pro-apoptotic genes in both experimental models. In conclusion, LAV694 selectively induced apoptosis, rather than necrosis, of growth-arrested keratinocytes, thus avoiding the occurrence of extensive inflammation. This resulted in an improved skin tolerability in comparison with 5-FU and podophyllotoxin.

Development of sesquiterpenes from Alpinia oxyphylla as novel skin permeation enhancers

To improve the drug permeation into and/or across the skin, essential oils extracted from Alpinia oxyphylla (AO) were evaluated using in vitro and in vivo permeation techniques with Wistar rats as the animal model. Hydrocarbons and oxygenated sesquiterpenes were the major components in the lower-polarity fraction (AO-1) and higher-polarity fraction (AO-2), respectively. Permeation of indomethacin was significantly enhanced after treatment with AO-1 and AO-2 in the in vitro and in vivo studies. AO-2 generally showed a higher ability to promote drug permeation compared to AO-1. The increment of skin/vehicle partitioning may be the predominant mechanism for this enhancing activity. Both transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and colorimetric evaluation showed limited irritation to skin by AO essential oils at the macroscopic level. Human skin fibroblasts were used to investigate the in vitro screening of skin toxicity. AO-1 slightly increased prostaglandin E(2) (PGE(2)) formation from skin fibroblasts. A striking result was observed with AO-2, which greatly inhibited the release of PGE(2). Moreover, both AO essential oils had no statistically significant effect on PGE(2) release by human lung epithelial cells. The results of this study indicate that skin disruption and inflammation do not necessary correspond to the enhancing efficiency of the enhancers tested.

Efficacy and irritancy of enhancers on the in-vitro and in-vivo percutaneous absorption of curcumin

Curcumin is a predominant compound derived from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa L., and shows antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antineoplastic activity. The in-vitro and in-vivo skin absorption of curcumin was investigated after application of enhancers using Wistar rat as an animal model. The enhancers selected in this study included terpenes, flavonoids and cholestanol. The irritant profiles of these enhancers were also established by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and histological observations. Cyclic monoterpenes generally showed stronger enhancement of curcumin permeation than the other enhancers. Modulation of concentration and pretreatment duration of enhancers possibly indicated that the enhancers have varied ability and mechanisms to enhance curcumin permeation. Terpineol produced the highest TEWL values among the enhancers tested, whereas ketocholestanol produced no, or only a negligible, increase in TEWL as compared with control. The results showed that skin disruption and inflammation did not necessarily correspond to the enhancing efficiency of the enhancers.

In vitro and in vivo evaluations of the efficacy and safety of skin permeation enhancers using flurbiprofen as a model drug

The efficacy and safety of commonly used enhancers were systemically evaluated by in vitro and in vivo methods in this study. Flurbiprofen was used as the model drug to examine the enhancing capacity of these enhancers. Both in vitro permeation by Franz cells and in vivo kinetics of skin disposition were performed to determine the flurbiprofen permeation by enhancers. Unsaturated fatty acids showed the greatest enhancement of flurbiprofen permeation. The enhancing effect of D-limonene was slightly lower than that of the fatty acids. Azone and L-alpha-lecithin even reduced the skin deposition by flurbiprofen application. In vitro prostaglandin E(2) (PGE(2)) release by cell culture, in vivo transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and colorimetry, and skin morphological changes were determined to examine the irritation of the skin by enhancers. The results showed that skin disruption and inflammation did not necessary correspond to the enhancing efficiency of the enhancers. Moreover, some discrepancies were observed in these irritant profiles when using various methods. The fatty acids generally showed the most irritating properties, followed by Azone, D-limonene, and L-alpha-lecithin. A complete portrait of the efficacy and safety of commonly used enhancers was therefore established in this study.

Skin constructs for replacement of skin tissues for in vitro testing

Reconstructed human skin equivalents as an alternative to animal experimentation offer not only a way to concede to demands of regulatory authorities, animal welfare organizations, consumers and scientists, but also provide a means to improve and extend our knowledge on biological processes in the skin. Presently, various skin reconstructs are available composed either of the epidermal compartment only or of both the epidermal and dermal compartments. Within each compartment various types of cells can be incorporated, including keratinocytes, melanocytes and Langerhans cells in the epidermal, and fibroblasts and endothelial cells in the dermal compartment. The quality of the human skin equivalents has now reached a point that their suitability for skin toxicity testing will make great progress. Next to the field of toxicity and safety standards, skin equivalents offer a well-characterized model for studies of the basic skin biology, wound repair, regulation of melanogenesis, pathogenesis of skin diseases and skin cancer.

Non-animal testing strategies for assessment of the skin corrosion and skin irritation potential of ingredients and finished products

The dermatotoxicologist today is faced with a dilemma. Protection of workers and consumers from skin toxicities (irritation and allergy) associated with exposure to products, and the ingredients they contain, requires toxicological skin testing prior to manufacture, transport, or marketing. Testing for skin corrosion or irritation has traditionally been conducted in animals, particularly in rabbits via the long established Draize test method. However, this procedure, among others, has been subject to criticism, both for its limited predictive capacity for human toxicity, as well as for its use of animals. In fact, legislation is pending in the European Union which would ban the sale of cosmetic products, the ingredients of which have been tested in animals. These considerations, and advancements in both in vitro skin biology and clinical testing, have helped drive an intensive effort among skin scientists to develop alternative test methods based either on in vitro test systems (e.g. using rat, pig or human skin ex vivo, or reconstructed human skin models) or ethical clinical approaches (human volunteer studies). Tools are now in place today to enable a thorough skin corrosion and irritation assessment of new ingredients and products without the need to test in animals. Herein, we describe general testing strategies and new test methods for the assessment of skin corrosion and irritation. The methods described, and utilized within industry today, provide a framework for the practicing toxicologist to support new product development initiatives through the use of reliable skin safety testing and risk assessment tools and strategies.

Assessment of the phototoxic potential of compounds and finished topical products using a human reconstructed epidermis

The goal of this study was to design a model system for the assessment of phototoxic potential using a human reconstructed epidermis (HRE, SkinEthic Laboratories, Nice, France), by testing some representative phototoxic (P) and non-phototoxic (NP) compounds and finished topical products. The tissue response to 24-h application of 5-5000 microg/mL of the test agents in the presence and absence of UVA light was analyzed in terms of viability (Lactate Dehydrogenase release), pro-inflammatory activity (IL-8 release and mRNA expression) and morphology (histopathology). 8-Methoxypsoralen (P) and promethazin (P), but not sodium lauryl sulfate (NP) produced cytotoxicity concentration-response curves significantly different between irradiated and nonirradiated tissues. Only irradiated tissues showed morphological damage. Application of tetracyclin (P) in the culture medium, but not topically, induced similar signs of phototoxicity. 6-Methylcoumarine (weak P) was not cytotoxic, yet it increased IL-8 release and mRNA expression only following UVA irradiation. PUVA therapy creams containing 1% 8-Methoxy-psoralen (P) or coal tar (P) decreased viability and induced histologic damage in UVA-exposed tissues. In conclusion, the phototoxic potential of the tested agents was correctly predicted by using a tiered strategy that involves determining cytotoxicity, production of IL-8, and morphological damage following exposure of the HRE to the compounds and UVA light.

Validity and ethics of the human 4-h patch test as an alternative method to assess acute skin irritation potential

For more than 50 years, the Draize rabbit skin irritation test has reigned supreme as the regulatory method of choice for the identification of skin irritant chemicals. To date no in vitro alternative test has been validated as an adequate replacement. However, one potential option, to test the endpoint of concern (skin irritation) in the species of concern (man) has been overlooked. The advent of predictive in vitro tools for the identification of substances corrosive to the skin has opened up the practical possibility of carrying out safe and ethical studies on small panels of humans. The human 4-h patch test has been developed to meet the needs of identifying chemical skin irritation potential, providing data which is inherently superior to that given by a surrogate model, such as the rabbit. This paper reviews in detail the present state of the human 4-h patch test, highlighting its advantages and noting its utility as the 'gold standard' on which to build future in vitro models.

In vitro and human testing strategies for skin irritation

Prior to the manufacture, transport, and marketing of chemicals or products, it is critical to assess their potential for skin toxicity (corrosion or irritation), thereby protecting the worker and consumer from adverse skin effects due to intended or accidental skin exposure. Traditionally, animal testing procedures have provided the data needed to assess the more severe forms of skin toxicity, and current regulations may require animal test data before permission can be obtained to manufacture, transport, or market chemicals or the products that contain them. In recent years, the use of animals to assess skin safety has been opposed by some as inhumane and unnecessary. The conflicting needs of the industrial toxicologist to (1) protect human safety, (2) comply with regulations, and (3) reduce animal testing have led to major efforts to develop alternative, yet predictive, test methods. A variety of in vitro skin corrosion test methods have been developed and several have successfully passed initial international validation. These have included skin or epidermal equivalent assays that have been shown to distinguish corrosive from noncorrosive chemicals. These skin/epidermal equivalent assays have also been modified and used to assess skin irritation potential relative to existing human exposure test data. The data show a good correlation between in vitro assay data and different types of human skin irritation data for both chemicals and consumer products. The effort to eliminate animal tests has also led to the development of a novel human patch test for assessment of acute skin irritation potential. A case study shows the benefits of in vitro and human skin irritation tests compared to the animal tests they seek to replace, and strategies now exist to adequately assess human skin irritation potential without the need to rely on animal test methods.

Use of human skin equivalent Apligraf for in vitro assessment of cumulative skin irritation potential of topical products

The main goal of the present study was to investigate the response of the human skin equivalent Apligraf in vitro to the application of irritant substances and its predictivity as a screening tool for cumulative skin irritant potential in humans. Vaseline, calcipotriol, trans-retinoic acid, and sodium lauryl sulfate were applied to Apligraf in vitro for 24 h. Cell viability (lactate dehydrogenase leakage), release and mRNA expression of the proinflammatory cytokines IL-1alpha and IL-8, and morphological changes were assessed. The same products were applied to 30 healthy volunteers in a double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled within-subject study. The skin reactions after repeated 24-h applications over 3 weeks under Finn chamber patches were monitored by visual scoring and biophysical methods (trans-epidermal water loss, chromametry, and blood flow). Sodium lauryl sulfate was cytotoxic to Apligraf, and increased the release and expression of cytokines at low (0.2%, 0. 4%), but not at high (0.8%, 1%) concentrations. It induced severe irritancy in vivo. Trans-retinoic acid increased the expression and release of cytokines with no detectable cytotoxicity and showed moderate irritancy in humans. Although calcipotriol did neither affect cell viability nor the production of cytokines, it induced morphological signs of irritation and was mildly irritant for healthy volunteers. Vaseline was innocuous in vivo and induced no changes in Apligraf. In conclusion, the cumulative skin irritation potential of the tested products could be predicted with Apligraf in a sensitive and specific manner, by monitoring cytotoxicity, proinflammatory cytokines, and morphological changes.

Electron diffraction provides new information on human stratum corneum lipid organization studied in relation to depth and temperature

The outermost layer of mammalian skin, the stratum corneum, provides the body with a barrier against transepidermal water loss and penetration of agents from outside. The lipid-rich extracellular matrix surrounding the corneocytes in the stratum corneum is mainly responsible for this barrier function. In this study (cryo-) electron diffraction was applied to obtain information about the local lateral lipid organization in the extracellular matrix in relation to depth in human stratum corneum. For this purpose, stratum corneum grid-strips were prepared from native skin in vivo and ex vivo. It was found that the lipid packing in samples prepared at room temperature is predominantly orthorhombic. In samples prepared at 32 degrees C the presence of a hexagonal packing is more pronounced in the outer layers of the stratum corneum. Gradually increasing the specimen temperature from 30 to 40 degrees C induced a further transition from an orthorhombic to a hexagonal sublattice. At 90 degrees C all lipids were present in a fluid phase. These results are in good agreement with previously reported wide angle X-ray diffraction and Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy studies. We conclude that the lipids in human stratum corneum are highly ordered throughout the stratum corneum and that electron diffraction allows monitoring of the local lipid organization, which contributes to the understanding of stratum corneum barrier function.

In vivo human skin permeability enhancement by oleic acid: a laser Doppler velocimetry study

Topical application of a skin permeation enhancer such as oleic acid (OA) can result in: (i) higher skin permeability for many exogenous substances (ii) an irritation reaction. Laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) is one of few techniques which can assess both effects using appropriate protocols. Direct LDV measurement, measuring cutaneous blood flow, has been preferred as a tool to evaluate skin irritation. By comparing the LDV value of an irritant-treated site with an untreated site, an irritation index for the irritant can be obtained. Occlusive application of 0.16 M OA in propylene glycol (PG) for either 3 or 24 h produced irritation in form of redness and slight swelling. Using LDV, we obtained an irritation index of 2 and 4, respectively. The vehicle, PG alone, produced an index of around 1, which corresponded well to the slight to almost no irritation observed visually. The duration of the high irritation index assessed by LDV after OA-PG application is comparable to the duration of the increase in transepidermal water loss following the same application. This indicates a correlation between skin irritation and barrier perturbation caused by OA. LDV can also be used to elucidate the effect of enhancers on skin using hexyl nicotinate (HN) as a model drug, since its vasodilative effect can be clearly assessed by LDV. Pre-treatment of PG for 3 h significantly reduced the t0 and tmax of HN. No further reduction could be observed when OA was added into PG, suggesting that OA-PG is not more effective than PG alone in enhancing the permeation of HN.