Delivery systems in cosmetics

Microscopic Analysis of the Water/Glycerol/EO30PS System in Bulk and on a Solid Substrate

Surfactant systems are often employed in cosmetic formulations where they dry on skin as a surface, thereby becoming increasingly concentrated systems. To better understand this drying process, we focused on the difference of self-assembled structures of the water/glycerol/polyoxyethylene (30) phytosteryl ether (EO30PS) system in bulk and on a solid substrate because the interaction between the substrate and the surfactant may have a substantial effect on the self-assembly, which may be related to the bulk structure but in detail may also differ strongly from the bulk situation. In bulk, small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) experiments showed that with increasing loss of water, the degree of ordering increases but changes of the aggregate structure are rather small. The results indicate that ellipsoidal micelles of EO30PS are densely packed and simply become more ordered in bulk during the drying process. On the other hand, neutron reflectometry revealed that EO30PS molecules adsorb onto a Si surface in the form of bilayers and analysis indicates that at a high concentration (c = 20 wt %), there are on average two bilayers (a double bilayer) on the Si substrate. The adsorbed membrane structure of EO30PS is rather thin with respect to its hydrophobic part, indicating tilted molecules, containing only some solvent, and being not highly ordered. These experimental results then allow for a much deeper understanding of the structural properties of practical formulations as they are applied, for instance, in cosmetic lotions.

Electrochemical Behavior and Direct Quantitative Determination of Paclitaxel

The electrochemical behavior and direct quantitative determination of paclitaxel, a poorly soluble drug made into microemulsion, were researched by cyclic voltammetry in acetate buffer solutions (pH = 4.0) at a glassy carbon electrode. The results show that the oxidation process is irreversible and controlled by diffusion. Moreover, the effects of anodic peak current (Ipa), anodic peak potential, scan rate, pH, and the electrochemical redox mechanism have been studied. The anodic peak current varied linearly with paclitaxel concentration in the range of 5 × 10-5 mol/L to 5 × 10-4 mol/L, and the detection limit was 9.15 × 10-8 mol/L. The results of RSD (0.90%) and recovery (99.22%-101.69%) were obtained. Additionally, it has been proved that one electron and one proton are involved in the electrochemical redox process. The present research has been successfully used to determine paclitaxel in pure and real samples, which further supported the electrochemical behavior investigation of paclitaxel and direct determination of micro-emulsion.

Recent Advances in Nanomaterials for Dermal and Transdermal Applications

The stratum corneum, the most superficial layer of the skin, protects the body against environmental hazards and presents a highly selective barrier for the passage of drugs and cosmetic products deeper into the skin and across the skin. Nanomaterials can effectively increase the permeation of active molecules across the stratum corneum and enable their penetration into deeper skin layers, often by interacting with the skin and creating the distinct sites with elevated local concentration, acting as reservoirs. The flux of the molecules from these reservoirs can be either limited to the underlying skin layers (for topical drug and cosmeceutical delivery) or extended across all the sublayers of the epidermis to the blood vessels of the dermis (for transdermal delivery). The type of the nanocarrier and the physicochemical nature of the active substance are among the factors that determine the final skin permeation pattern and the stability of the penetrant in the cutaneous environment. The most widely employed types of nanomaterials for dermal and transdermal applications include solid lipid nanoparticles, nanovesicular carriers, microemulsions, nanoemulsions, and polymeric nanoparticles. The recent advances in the area of nanomaterial-assisted dermal and transdermal delivery are highlighted in this review.

Recent advances in microencapsulation of drugs for veterinary applications

Microencapsulation is a process where very minute droplets or particles of solid or liquid or gas are trapped with a polymer to isolate the internal core material from external environmental hazards. Microencapsulation is applied mostly for flavor masking, fortification, and sustained and control release. It improves palatability, absorption, and bioavailability of drugs with good conformity. Microencapsulation has been widely studied in numerous drug delivery systems for human health. The application of microcapsules in the veterinary pharmaceutical sciences is increasing day by day. The treatment systems for humans and animals are likely to be similar, but more complex in the veterinary field due to the diversity of the species, breeds, body size, biotransformation rate, and other factors associated with animal physiology. Commercially viable, economically profitable, and therapeutically effective microencapsulated vaccine, anthelmintic, antibacterial, and other therapeutics have a great demand for livestock and poultry production. Nowadays, researchers emphasize the controlled and sustained-release dosage form of drugs in the veterinary field. This paper has highlighted the microencapsulation materials, preparation techniques, characteristics, roles, and the application of microcapsules in veterinary medicine.

Ultrastable Water-in-Oil High Internal Phase Emulsions Featuring Interfacial and Biphasic Network Stabilization

In this work, we present gel-in-gel water-in-oil (W/O) high internal phase emulsions (HIPEs) that feature high stability by structuring both phases of the emulsion. Compared to significant advances made in oil-in-water (O/W) HIPEs, W/O HIPEs are extremely unstable and difficult to generate without introducing high concentrations of surfactants. Another main challenge is the low viscosity of both water and oil phases which promotes the instability of W/O HIPEs. Here, we demonstrate ultrastable W/O HIPEs that feature biphasic structuring, in which hydrogels are dispersed in oleogels, and self-forming, low-concentration interfacial Pickering crystals provide added stability. These W/O HIPEs exhibit high tolerance toward pH shock and destabilizing environments. In addition, this novel ultrastable gel-in-gel W/O HIPE is sustainable and made solely with natural ingredients without the addition of any synthetic stabilizers. By applying phase structuring within the HIPEs through the addition of various carrageenans and beeswax as structurants, we can increase the emulsion's stability and viscoelastic rheological properties. The performance of these gel-in-gel W/O HIPEs holds promise for a wide range of applications. As a proof of concept, we demonstrated herein the application as a gelled delivery system that enables the co-delivery of hydrophilic and hydrophobic materials at maximized loads, demonstrating high resistance to gastrointestinal pHs and a controlled-release profile.

Direct Measurements of kT-Scale Capsule-Substrate Interactions and Deposition Versus Surfactants and Polymer Additives

We report a novel approach to directly measure the interactions and deposition behavior of functional capsule delivery systems on glass substrates versus the concentration of an anionic surfactant sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) and a cationic acrylamide-acrylamidopropyltrimonium copolymer (AAC). Analyses of three-dimensional optical microscopy trajectories were used to quantify lateral diffusive dynamics, deposition lifetimes, and potentials of mean force for different solution conditions. In the absence of additives, negatively charged capsule surfaces yield electrostatic repulsion with the negatively charged substrate, which inhibits deposition. With an increasing SLES concentration below the critical micelle concentration (CMC), capsule-substrate electrostatic repulsion is mediated by the charged surfactant solution that decreases the Debye length. Above the SLES CMC, depletion attraction causes enhanced deposition until eventually depletion repulsion inhibits deposition at concentrations ∼10 wt %. Addition of an ACC causes deposition via capsule-substrate bridging at all concentrations; the weakest deposition occurs at intermediate AAC concentrations from a competition of steric repulsion and attraction via a few extended bridges. The novel measurements and models of capsule interactions and deposition on substrates in this work provide a basis to fundamentally understand and rationally design complex rinse-off cleansing formulations with optimal characteristics.

Aggregation and Rheological Behavior of the Lavender Oil-Pluronic P123 Microemulsions in Water-Ethanol Mixed Solvents

The effect of lavender oil on aggregation characteristics of P123 in aqueous-ethanolic solutions is investigated systematically by DLS, SANS, and rheology. The solubilization capacity of the P123 based formulations toward Lavender oil increased by increasing P123 concentration. The study unveiled the importance of the short chain alcohol-ethanol, as solubilization enhancer. The apparent hydrodynamic radius (R_h) increased significantly with an increase in lavender oil concentration up to maximum oil solubilization capacity of the copolymer at a particular ethanol concentration. DLS measurements on 5, 10, and 15 wt% P123 in the presence of 25% ethanol revealed the presence of large-sized micellar clusters in addition to the oil swollen micelles. The core size (R_C), radius of hard sphere (R_HS), and aggregation number (N) obtained from SANS profiles showed considerable enhancement with the addition of lavender oil confirming penetration of oil inside the copolymer. Rheological studies showed that viscosity also increased significantly with the addition of lavender oil near the maximum loading limit of the P123 concentration. Quite interestingly, the sol-gel transition temperature displayed a strong dependence on both P123 as well as oil concentration and decreased almost linearly by increasing oil concentration. This study demonstrates the use of a biocompatible and temperature sensitive self-assembled P123 based formulation for lavender oil solubilization that can be beneficial in the cosmetic industry wherein controlled release of fragrances and so forth is demanded.

Phase behaviors and characterization of magnetic microemulsions containing pentaalkylguanidinium-based magnetic room-temperature ionic liquids (MRTILs)

Strong magnetic susceptibility and low viscosity magnetic microemulsions containing pentaalkylguanidinium-based magnetic room temperature ionic liquids.

Research Advances of Microencapsulation and Its Prospects in the Petroleum Industry

Additives in the petroleum industry have helped form an efficient system in the past few decades. Nowadays, the development of oil and gas has been facing more adverse conditions, and smart response microcapsules with the abilities of self-healing, and delayed and targeted release are introduced to eliminate obstacles for further exploration in the petroleum industry. However, limited information is available, only that of field measurement data, and not mechanism theory and structural innovation data. Thus we propose that the basic type, preparation, as well as mechanism of microcapsules partly depend on other mature fields. In this review, we explore the latest advancements in evaluating microcapsules, such as X-ray computed tomography (XCT), simulation, and modeling. Finally, some novel microencapsulated additives with unparalleled advantages, such as flexibility, efficiency, and energy-conservation are described.

Effect of vehicle on the performance of active moisturizing substances

PURPOSE

The work is aimed at the description and study of the hydration effect of different active substances (hyaluronic acid, sericin, glycerol, and urea) incorporated in two different vehicles commonly used for compounding pharmaceutical ingredients, gel, and emulsion.

METHODS

The effects of the formulations were investigated by instrumental methods in vivo after their administration to the skin of volar forearms in a group of 20 healthy volunteers (women, mean age of 28 years). Hydration effect was observed by corneometry and barrier properties (TEWL) by tewametr at regular time intervals (1-26 h) after application of the prepared samples.

RESULTS

The results indicate that the active substances incorporated in the emulsion moisturize the skin better compared to the same substances contained in the gel. Furthermore, it was found that these ingredients, whether they are present in the emulsion or in the gel, prevent TEWL in a similar manner.

CONCLUSION

The study showed that differences exist among the tested active ingredients in their ability to moisturize the skin. These differences are dependent not only on the type and concentration of the active substance used but also on the type of vehicle in which they are applied. It was also found that the active substances influence the viscosity of the prepared formulations.

Structural characterization of biocompatible lipoic acid-oligo-(3-hydroxybutyrate) conjugates by electrospray ionization mass spectrometry

RATIONALE

Currently, most of the antioxidants and free radical neutralizers used in cosmetic compositions are absorbed quickly into deeper layers of skin, and then carried away by the blood stream. It would be beneficial to delay the penetration of antioxidants to the deeper layers of skin to control their delivery and release.

METHODS

Recently, growing attention has been paid to the attachment of cosmetics to specific polymer carriers. Biodegradable and biocompatible conjugates of oligo-3-hydroxybutyrate with lipoic acid were obtained via the anionic ring-opening oligomerization of (R,S)-β-butyrolactone initiated by lipoic acid potassium salt. The structure of the resulting conjugates as well as their water-soluble hydrolytic degradation products were established at the molecular level by electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS(n)) supported by (1)H NMR analyses.

RESULTS

The structural studies, performed with the aid of ESI-MS(n), confirmed that the lipoic acid was covalently bound to oligo-3-hydroxybutyrate chains through hydrolyzable ester bonds. Furthermore, hydrolytic degradation studies of the bioconjugates provided detailed insight into the hydrolysis process, allowing the identification of the degradation products and confirming the release of α-lipoic acid. Cytotoxicity tests demonstrated that the conjugates were non-toxic.

CONCLUSIONS

Detailed molecular structural studies of new polymeric delivery systems of lipoic acid were performed by ESI-MS. ESI-MS proved to be an excellent technique for the evaluation of hydrolytic degradation products of the conjugates and for monitoring the release of lipoic acid. The results obtained contribute significantly to the characterization of biocompatible LA-OHB conjugates with potential applications in cosmetology.

Preparation and evaluation of topical microemulsion system containing metronidazole for remission in rosacea

The aim of this study was to prepare a topical water-in-oil type microemulsion containing metronidazole and to compare its effectiveness with a commercial gel product in the treatment of rosacea. A pseudo-ternary phase diagram (K(m)=2:1) was constructed using lecithin/butanol/isopropyl myristate/water. The microemulsion was chosen from the microemulsion region in the phase diagram. The formulation was a water-in-oil type microemulsion (droplet size: 11.6 nm, viscosity: 457.3 mPa·s, conductivity: 1.5 µs/cm, turbidity: 6.89 NTU) and the addition of the metronidazole did not alter the properties of the system. The release experiment showed that the release rate of metronidazole from the commercial gel product was higher than that of the microemulsion. Stability experiments showed that the metronidazole microemulsion remained stable for at least 6 months; none of the characteristic properties of the microemulsion had changed, the system retained its clarity and there was no sign that crystallization of metronidazole has occurred. Microemulsion was compared to a gel product in a randomized, double-blind, baseline-controlled, split-face clinical trial for the treatment of patients. After the 6-week treatment period there was a statistically significant difference in reduction of the main symptoms of rosacea. Of the patients treated with the microemulsion, 17% experienced complete relief from inflammatory lesions, and 50% from erythema. The microemulsion resulted in complete relief in 38% of the patients with telangiectasia while the commercial product did not provide any relief of telangiectasia symptoms. In conclusion, the microemulsion containing metronidazole was found to be more effective in reducing the symptoms of rosacea compared to the commercial gel product.

Diffusion through colloidal shells under stress

The permeability of solids has long been associated with a diffusive process involving activated mechanism as originally envisioned by Eyring. Tensile stress can affect the activation energy but definitive experiments of the diffusion rate of species through a stressed solid are lacking. Here we use core-shell (liquid core-solid shell) colloidal particles that are sensitive to osmotic pressure to follow the permeation of encapsulated probes at various stresses. We unambiguously show that the tensile stress applied on colloidal shells linearly reduces the local energy barrier for diffusion.

Human skin penetration and distribution of nimesulide from hydrophilic gels containing nanocarriers

The objective of this work was to study the in vitro skin penetration of a drug model (nimesulide) from semi-solid topical formulations containing nanospheres, nanocapsules or nanoemulsion. Nanoprecipitation, interfacial deposition and spontaneous emulsification methods were used to prepare the nanostructured suspension. The hydrodynamic diameters were 252nm for the nanoemulsion, 277nm for the nanocapsules and 202nm for the nanospheres containing nimesulide. The different nanocarrier systems were incorporated in the hydrophilic gels and their ability of delivering the drug into the human skin were investigated using stripping technique and Franz-type diffusion cells. The amount of nimesulide released into the stratum corneum (SC) from the gel containing nanocapsules (GNM-NC) and the gel containing nanospheres (GNM-NS) was similar. On the other hand, for the gel containing nanoemulsion (GNM-NE), the nimesulide was not quantified in SC, but it has been directly permeated for the dermis. The penetration of the nimesulide using the gel containing nanocapsules (GNM-NC) was larger in the deeper skin than using the gel containing nanospheres (GNM-NS) or the one containing nanoemulsion (GNM-NE). The gels containing nanocarriers (GNM-NC, GNM-NS and GNM-NE) were able to release the drug in the viable layer of the skin, comparing to a non-particulated nimesulide-loaded formulation at the same concentration.

Investigation on the release of fluorescent markers from w/o/w emulsions by fluorescence-activated cell sorter

The mechanism of release of two fluorescent markers, fluorescein isothiocyanate-bovine serum albumin (FITC-BSA) and fluorescein, from water-in-oil-in-water (w/o/w) emulsions was investigated using a rapid and sensitive method based on fluorescence-activated cell sorting (FACS). The release of FITC-BSA from a w/o/w emulsion was controlled by diffusion rather than by simple breakdown of the multiple droplets or by formation of reverse micelles in the oil phase. In contrast, the release of fluorescein from a double emulsion was controlled by formation of reverse micelles rather than by diffusion or simple breakdown of multiple droplets. A significant difference in the yield and fraction of FITC-BSA and fluorescein released from double emulsions was observed due to their different molecular structure and properties. The yield of FITC-BSA incorporation in a double emulsion increased with increasing FITC-BSA concentration in the internal water phase, while the yield of fluorescein decreased with increasing concentration. The fraction of FITC-BSA released from a w/o/w emulsion after 24 h decreased with an increasing concentration of FITC-BSA in the internal phase. The w/o/w emulsion with internalized FITC-BSA was more stable than that with fluorescein, indicating its further application for sorting or enriching size-controlled double droplets that contained genes and water-soluble drugs.

Flow cytometry: a new method to investigate the properties of water-in-oil-in-water emulsions

We present a new and facile method to evaluate w/o/w emulsions containing fluorescent markers by flow cytometry. Flow cytometry allows simultaneous measurement of w/o/w emulsion droplets "marked" with a fluorescent marker or "blank" without the need for complicated sample preparation. The yield of preparation of the w/o/w emulsion and the release rate of the fluorescent marker FITC-BSA were investigated by this new method. The release fraction (after 24 h) of FITC-BSA from the w/o/w emulsion decreased with increasing concentration of FITC-BSA inside the internal phase, just like the release fraction of NaCl as marker from the w/o/w emulsion. Flow cytometry results show that the yield and release behavior in w/o/w emulsions are in agreement with results reported by more complicated methods.