Revisiting the Role of Irradiance in the Determination of Sunscreens' Sun Protection Factor

From Biomass-Derived p-Hydroxycinnamic Acids to Novel Sustainable and Non-Toxic Phenolics-Based UV-Filters: A Multidisciplinary Journey

Although organic UV-filters are extensively used in cosmetics to protect consumers from the deleterious effects of solar UV radiation-exposure, they suffer from some major drawbacks such as their fossil origin and their toxicity to both humans and the environment. Thus, finding sustainable and non-toxic UV-filters is becoming a topic of great interest for the cosmetic industry. A few years ago, sinapoyl malate was shown to be a powerful naturally occurring UV-filter. Building on these findings, we decided to design and optimize an entire value chain that goes from biomass to innovative biobased and non-toxic lignin-derived UV-filters. This multidisciplinary approach relies on: 1) The production of phenolic synthons using either metabolite extraction from biomass or their bioproduction through synthetic biology/fermentation/in stream product recovery; 2) their functionalization using green chemistry to access sinapoyl malate and analogues; 3) the study of their UV-filtering activity, their photostability, their biological properties; and 4) their photodynamics. This mini-review aims at demonstrating that combining biotechnology, green chemistry, downstream process and photochemistry is a powerful approach to transform biomass and, in particular lignins, into high value-added innovative UV-filters.

Elucidating the Photoluminescence Quenching in Ensulizole: an Artificial Water Soluble Sunscreen

Employing natural or artificial sunscreens is essential to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiations that cause premature aging and develop melanoma and other forms of skin cancer. The 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, commonly known as ensulizole is a water-soluble artificial sunscreen that absorb UV-B (280 nm - 315 nm) radiations and protects the skin against the harmful effects of these radiations. We have measured steady-state photoluminescence (SSPL) spectra and photoluminescence (PL) kinetics of this compound in various conditions. Steady-state absorption indicates a strong absorption feature at 303 nm and a weak one at 316 nm that have been identified as π → π* and n → π* transitions, respectively. The spectra of PL induced by these absorptions indicate that the PL of ensulizole is less Stokes-shifted in polar solvents and more Stokes-shifted in non-polar solvents. The average PL lifetime of ensulizole is longer in non-polar solvents than in polar solvents and it exhibits the shortest PL lifetime in aqueous medium that maximize its transition efficiency in water. This suggests in non-polar solvents intersystem crossing is the dominant mode of relaxation of the excited ππ* state. Furthermore, an increase of pH of ensulizole solution decreases the PL intensity and the lifetime. Stern-Volmer equation is employed to evaluate bimolecular quenching rate constant kq. The evaluation result suggests the diffusional dynamic mode of PL quenching is operative.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.