Interaction of the acid soap of triethanolamine stearate and stearic acid with water

The Influence of Increasing Concentrations of AMPD on the Efficacy of Its Penetration into a Model Skin Sebum Layer

Alcoholamines are widely used as auxiliary substances in various topical preparations. Their impact on the components of skin sebum allows them to be used in preparations that cleanse the skin of sebum in hair follicles. We measured the effects of various concentrations of aqueous solutions of AMPD (2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol) on model skin sebum. The volume of reacted sebum was calculated using two methods: optical assessment of the interaction of alcoholamines with the components of model skin sebum and determination of the reacted volume of model skin sebum based on the measurements of changes in the pH of the AMPD solutions. Both methods showed that the most favorable AMPD concentration for model sebum penetration was approximately 1-2%. Lower values of alcoholamine caused premature exhaustion from the solution. Excessively high concentrations resulted in the formation of a dense layer of products hindering effective skin cleansing.

Progressing Towards the Sustainable Development of Cream Formulations

This work aims at providing the assumptions to assist the sustainable development of cream formulations. Specifically, it envisions to rationalize and predict the effect of formulation and process variability on a 1% hydrocortisone cream quality profile, interplaying microstructure properties with product performance and stability. This tripartite analysis was supported by a Quality by Design approach, considering a three-factor, three-level Box-Behnken design. Critical material attributes and process parameters were identified from a failure mode, effects, and criticality analysis. The impact of glycerol monostearate amount, isopropyl myristate amount, and homogenization rate on relevant quality attributes was estimated crosswise. The significant variability in product droplet size, viscosity, thixotropic behavior, and viscoelastic properties demonstrated a noteworthy influence on hydrocortisone release profile (112 ± 2–196 ± 7 μg/cm²/√h) and permeation behavior (0.16 ± 0.03–0.97 ± 0.08 μg/cm²/h), and on the assay, instability index and creaming rate, with values ranging from 81.9 to 120.5%, 0.031 ± 0.012 to 0.28 ± 0.13 and from 0.009 ± 0.000 to 0.38 ± 0.07 μm/s, respectively. The release patterns were not straightforwardly correlated with the permeation behavior. Monitoring the microstructural parameters, through the balanced adjustment of formulation and process variables, is herein highlighted as the key enabler to predict cream performance and stability. Finally, based on quality targets and response constraints, optimal working conditions were successfully attained through the establishment of a design space.

Meglumine-based supra-amphiphile self-assembled in water as a skin drug delivery system: Influence of unfrozen bound water in the system bioadhesiveness

Hexagonal liquid crystals and supramolecular polymers from meglumine-based supra-amphiphiles were developed as drug delivery systems to be applied on the skin. The influence of fatty acid unsaturation on the structure and mechanical properties was evaluated. Moreover, we have investigated the system biocompatibility and how the type of water could influence its bioadhesive properties. Meglumine-oleic acid (MEG-OA) was arranged as hexagonal liquid crystals at 30-70 wt% water content, probably due to its curvature and increased water solubility. Meglumine-stearic acid (MEG-SA) at 10-80 wt% water content self-assembled as a lamellar polymeric network, which can be explained by the low mobility of MEG-SA in water due to hydrophobic interactions between fatty acid chains and H-bonds between meglumine and water molecules. Both systems have shown suitable mechanical parameters and biocompatibility, making them potential candidates to encapsulate therapeutic molecules for skin delivery. Moreover, a strong positive correlation between the amount of unfrozen bound water in meglumine-based systems and the bioadhesion properties was observed. This work shows that a better understanding of the physicochemical properties of a drug delivery system is extremely important for the correlation with the desired biological response and, thus, improve the product performance for biomedical applications.

Oxa-Michael Addition to α,β-Unsaturated Nitriles: An Expedient Route to γ-Amino Alcohols and Derivatives

Water addition to α,β-unsaturated nitriles would give facile access to the β-hydroxy-nitriles, which in turn can be hydrogenated to the γ-amino alcohols. We have previously shown that alcohols readily add in 1,4-fashion to these substrates using Milstein's Ru(PNN) pincer complex as catalyst. However, attempted water addition to α,β-unsaturated nitriles gave the 3-hydroxynitriles in mediocre yields. On the other hand, addition of benzyl alcohol proceeded in excellent yields for a variety of β-substituted unsaturated nitriles. Subsequent treatment of the benzyl alcohol addition products with TMSCl/FeCl3 resulted in the formation of 3-hydroxy-alkylnitriles. The 3-benzyloxy-alkylnitriles obtained from oxa-Michael addition also could be hydrogenated directly in the presence of acid to give the amino alcohols as their HCl salts in excellent yields. Hydrogenation under neutral conditions gave a mixture of the secondary and tertiary amines. Hydrogenation in the presence of base and Boc-anhydride gave the orthogonally bis-protected amino alcohols, in which the benzyl ether can subsequently be cleaved to yield Boc-protected amino alcohols. Thus, a variety of molecular scaffolds with a 1,3-relationship between O- and N-functional group is accessible starting from oxa-Michael addition of benzyl alcohol to α,β-unsaturated nitriles.

Stability Conditions and Mechanism of Cream Soaps: Effect of Polyols

Fatty acids, fatty acid potassium soaps, polyols and water are essential ingredients for producing stable cream soaps. The solution behavior of the above four components system has been studied to elucidate the effect of four sorts of polyols (glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol 400 and dipropylene glycol) on the stability of cream soaps. It has been revealed that the lamellar liquid crystalline one-phase converted to a two-phase of a lamellar phase and an isotropic aqueous solution by the addition of a few percent of 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol 400 and dipropylene glycol, whereas the lamellar one-phase was remained by about 50 wt% of glycerol in the aqueous solution. The X-ray data at room temperature showed that the existence of 1:1 acid soap (1:1 mole ratio of potassium soap/fatty acid) crystals in the 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol 400 and dipropylene glycol systems, whereas that the coexistence of 1:1 acid soap crystal and a lamellar gel phase (swelled lamellar gel structure) in the glycerol system. The phase transition peaks from coagel to gel (Tgel) and from gel to liquid state (Tc) were appeared in the above four polyol systems by DSC measurements. It was confirmed from the combined data of SAXS and DSC that the existence of anhydrous 1:1 acid soap gels (or with small amount of bound water) in the all polyol systems, whereas the coexistence of the anhydrate gel and the swelled gel with a lot of intermediate water in the only glycerol system. This swelled gel structure would be contributed to stabilize the dispersed anhydrate acid soap crystals in cream soaps.

Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Triethanolamine-Containing Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed the safety of triethanolamine (TEA) and 31 related TEA-containing ingredients as used in cosmetics. The TEA is reported to function as a surfactant or pH adjuster; the related TEA-containing ingredients included in this safety assessment are reported to function as surfactants and hair- or skin-conditioning agents. The exception is TEA-sorbate, which is reported to function as a preservative. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data. Although data were not available for all the ingredients, the panel relied on the information available for TEA in conjunction with previous safety assessments of components of TEA-containing ingredients. These data could be extrapolated to support the safety of all included ingredients. The panel concluded that TEA and related TEA-containing ingredients named in this report are safe as used when formulated to be nonirritating. These ingredients should not be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds can be formed.

Gel phase originating from molecular quasi-crystallization and nanofiber growth of - system

Adding sodium salts to a dilute sodium laurate (SL) aqueous solution, slow phase transition was observed from the micelle solution to a gel phase. The phase-transition process has great resemblance to crystal salt-out. The observation by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) proved that the hydrogel is a network structure with interweaving fibers and ribbons, which can trap an aqueous solution. The images of high-resolution TEM (HR-TEM) indicated that each of the fibers and ribbons is composed of a bundle of parallel cylindrical nanofibers. Conductivity and in situ diffuse reflectance fourier-transform infrared (DR-FT-IR) spectroscopy measurements indicated that gel formation was induced due to a crystallization of rod micelles by Na+ ions bonding to the oxygen groups of salts of fatty carboxylates. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) showed that the increase of either the chain length of sodium soaps or the concentration of Na+ counter-ions promoted the growth of the nanofibers. We speculated that the phase transition from the micelle solution to the gel phase is a result of a crystallization of rod micelles induced by sodium ions.