Allergic contact dermatitis from phthalic anhydride/trimellitic anhydride/glycols copolymer in nail varnish

Adverse Effects of Do-It-Yourself Nail Cosmetics: A Literature Review

Background

As self-applied manicures have gained popularity, it is important for physicians to remain informed about potential associated side effects. Traditional polish remains most popular among nail enthusiasts, but the pursuit of durability and convenience accelerated development of other nail cosmetic products, including gel polish, acrylic nails, and press-on nails. Despite documented adverse effects among beauty professionals and salon customers, individuals practicing at-home nail care routines may face similar, if not more, frequent complications due to misinformation, inadequate training, and social media trends.

Summary

This review provides an overview of adverse effects associated with different at-home nail cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis is the most prevalent adverse event, primarily attributed to (meth)acrylates found in nail glue, gel polish, and acrylic nails. Other adverse effects include infections, chemical burns, and complications from ultraviolet nail lamps.

Key Message

The review highlights the importance of transparent product labeling and appropriate warning labels from manufacturers, as well as physician education and awareness for minimizing risks related to at-home nail cosmetic applications.

Chemical Modifications Induced by Phthalic Anhydride, a Respiratory Sensitizer, in Reconstructed Human Epidermis: A Combined HRMAS NMR and LC-MS/MS Proteomic Approach

Chemical skin and respiratory allergies are becoming a major health problem. To date our knowledge on the process of protein haptenation is still limited and mainly derived from studies performed in solution using model nucleophiles. In order to better understand chemical interactions between chemical allergens and the skin, we have investigated the reactivity of phthalic anhydride 1 (PA), a chemical respiratory sensitizer, toward reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). This study was performed using a new approach combining HRMAS NMR to investigate the in situ chemical reactivity and LC-MS/MS to identify modified epidermal proteins. In RHE, the reaction of PA appeared to be quite fast and the major product formed was phthalic acid. Two amide type adducts on lysine residues were observed and after 8h of incubation, we also observed the formation of an imide type cyclized adducts with lysine. In parallel, RHE samples topically exposed to phthalic anhydride (¹³C)-1 were analyzed using the shotgun proteomics method. Thus, 948 different proteins were extracted and identified, 135 of which being modified by PA, i.e., 14.2% of the extracted proteome. A total of 211 amino acids were modified by PA and validated by fragmentation spectra. We thus identified 154 modified lysines, 22 modified histidines, 30 modified tyrosines, and 5 modified arginines. The rate of modified residues, as a proportion of the total number of modifiable nucleophilic residues in RHE, was rather low (1%). At the protein level, modified proteins were mainly type I and type II keratins and other proteins which are abundant in the epidermis such as protein S100A, Caspase 14, annexin A2, serpin B3, fatty-acid binding protein 5, histone H2, H3, H4, etc. However, the most modified protein, mainly on histidine residues, was filaggrin, a protein that is of low abundance (0.0266 mol %) and rich in histidine.

Safety Assessment of Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymers as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 6 trimellitic anhydride copolymers as used in cosmetics. These ingredients are related as copolymers in that they all share trimellitic anhydride (ie, 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid anhydride) as a monomer, are reported to function as film formers in cosmetics, and are reported to be primarily used in nail products. Very limited safety data were available or submitted. The Panel concluded that Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer and Phthalic Anhydride/Trimellitic Anhydride/Glycols Copolymer are safe in nail product formulations in the present practices of use and concentration, but the data are insufficient to make a determination of safety on the use of these 2 ingredients in all other types of cosmetic formulations. The Panel also concluded that the available data are insufficient to make a determination that the remaining trimellitic anhydride copolymers are safe for use in cosmetic formulations.

Developing a cosmetic series: Results from the ESSCA network, 2009-2018

BACKGROUND

There is considerable variability across European patch test centres as to which allergens are included in local and national cosmetics series.

OBJECTIVES

To propose a standardized, evidence-based cosmetic series for Europe based on up-to-date analysis of relevant contact allergens.

METHODS

We collated data from the European Surveillance System on Contact Allergies (ESSCA) from 2009 to 2018 to determine which cosmetic allergens produce a high yield of contact allergy. Contact allergens with a prevalence of >0.3% that were considered relevant were included. Rare contact allergens were excluded if deemed no longer relevant or added to a supplemental cosmetic series for further analysis.

RESULTS

Sensitization prevalences of 39 cosmetic contact allergens were tabulated. Thirty of these allergens yielded >0.3% positive reactions and are therefore included in our proposed European cosmetic series. Six were considered no longer relevant and therefore excluded. Three were included in a supplementary European cosmetic series. An additional nine allergens were included in either the core or supplemental European cosmetic series following literature review.

CONCLUSION

We have derived a potential European cosmetic series based upon the above methods. This will require ongoing investigation based upon the changing exposure profiles of cosmetic allergens as well as new and evolving substances.

Improvement of human cell line activation test (h-CLAT) using short-time exposure methods for prevention of false-negative results

Recently, animal testing has been affected by increasing ethical, social, and political concerns regarding animal welfare. Several in vitro safety tests for evaluating skin sensitization, such as the human cell line activation test (h-CLAT), have been proposed. However, similar to other tests, the h-CLAT has produced false-negative results, including in tests for acid anhydride and water-insoluble chemicals. In a previous study, we demonstrated that the cause of false-negative results from phthalic anhydride was hydrolysis by an aqueous vehicle, with IL-8 release from THP-1 cells, and that short-time exposure to liquid paraffin (LP) dispersion medium could reduce false-negative results from acid anhydrides. In the present study, we modified the h-CLAT by applying this exposure method. We found that the modified h-CLAT is a promising method for reducing false-negative results obtained from acid anhydrides and chemicals with octanol-water partition coefficients (LogK_ow) greater than 3.5. Based on the outcomes from the present study, a combination of the original and the modified h-CLAT is suggested for reducing false-negative results. Notably, the combination method provided a sensitivity of 95% (overall chemicals) or 93% (chemicals with LogK_ow > 2.0), and an accuracy of 88% (overall chemicals) or 81% (chemicals with LogK_ow > 2.0). We found that the combined method is a promising evaluation scheme for reducing false-negative results seen in existing in vitro skin-sensitization tests. In the future, we expect a combination of original and modified h-CLAT to be applied in a newly developed in vitro test for evaluating skin sensitization.

Contact and primary irritant dermatitis of the nail unit diagnosis and treatment

Contact dermatitis of the nail unit is not rare. The most common allergens are found in nail cosmetics such as enamel, sculptured nails, and preformed plastic tips. Toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resin, acrylates, and ethylcyanoacrylate are the most common allergens. Along with a proper clinical history focusing on nail practices, a thorough understanding of the common allergens and patch testing are necessary to diagnose contact dermatitis. A discussion of the common allergens and irritants relevant to the nail unit will be presented.

Allergic contact dermatitis to copolymers in cosmetics ? case report and review of the literature

Copolymers or heteropolymers are large molecules with high molecular weights (>1000 D). They have been underestimated for a long time as to their sensitizing capacities. Allergic contact dermatitis to 6 copolymers in cosmetics and 1 in a medical dressing has been described; however, the nature of the hapten is still unknown. We report a case of allergic contact dermatitis to polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/hexadecene copolymer in a purple-colored lipstick and review the literature on allergic contact dermatitis to 7 copolymers: PVP/hexadecene, PVP/eicosene, PVP/1-triacontene, methoxy polyethyleneglycol (PEG)-22/dodecyl glycols, methoxy PEG-17/dodecyl glycols, phthalic anhydride/trimellitic anhydride/glycols, and polyvinyl methyl/maleic acid anhydride.