Efficacy of stratum corneum lipid supplementation on human skin

Topical application of lipids to correct abnormalities in the epidermal lipid barrier

Linked Article: Danby et al. Br J Dermatol 2022; 186:875–886.

Lipid Nanomaterials for Targeted Delivery of Dermocosmetic Ingredients: Advances in Photoprotection and Skin Anti-Aging

Despite the health benefits of the sun, overexposure to solar radiation without proper precautions can cause irreversible damage to exposed skin. In the search for balance between the risks and benefits of exposure to solar radiation in human health, a technological alternative was found, the incorporation of photoprotective products in lipid nanoparticulate systems for topical application. These nanometric systems have demonstrated several advantages when used as adjuvants in photoprotection compared to chemical and/or physical sunscreens alone. The increase in the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability and UV action spectrum are parameters that have benefited from the application of these systems in order to increase the effectiveness and safety of photoprotective formulations containing organic and/or inorganic sunscreens.

Potential benefits of oral administration of AMORPHOPHALLUS KONJAC glycosylceramides on skin health - a randomized clinical study

Background

Ceramides play a fundamental role in maintaining the skin health as a function of improved barrier permeability. Reduced ceramide content results in skin dryness and wrinkledness. Intake of dietary ceramides potentially compensates the skin ceramide content. In the present study we have assessed the skin health benefits of oral supplementation of a hydroalcoholic extract from Amorphophallus konjac tubers standardized to 5% glycosylceramides, in a placebo-controlled clinical trial.

Methods

Fifty-one healthy human volunteers (aged 18–60 years) were supplemented with 100 mg/day of either a placebo or A. konjac extract capsules (5 mg glycosylceramides) for 6-weeks. The skin parameters were evaluated through dermatological diagnosis. Subject perceived efficacy of the product was further evaluated by a self-assessment questionnaire.

Results

Oral intake of A. konjac extract significantly decreased the skin dryness, hyperpigmentation, redness, itching and oilyness (p < 0.05). The improvement in skin health following intake of A. konjac extract was observed to be time-dependent from the start. Further, A. konjac extract was well-tolerated throughout the study, as no adverse events or toxic changes were recorded.

Conclusion

The study demonstrates the skincare properties of orally ingested glycosyl ceramides from konjac tubers.

Trial registration

CTRI/2018/12/016661 dated 13/12/2018 retrospectively registered, http://ctri.nic.in/Clinicaltrials/showallp.php?mid1=19851&EncHid=&userName=SkinCera

Correlation Between SNOT-22, Nasal Cytology, and Mood Disorders in Patients With Allergic Rhinitis Treated With a Liposomal Nasal Spray

Patients with allergic rhinitis (AR) can suffer from mood disorders. The aim of this study was to investigate the clinical effect of a liposomal nasal spray (LN) containing vitamins A and E on the nasal mucosa in patients suffering from AR who had refused any type of anti-allergic treatment. For this purpose, the results of nasal cytology, Visual Analog Scale (VAS), Sino-Nasal Outcome Test-22 (SNOT-22), and Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale (HADS) test were analyzed. Moreover, we evaluated the relationship between SNOT-22 and nasal cytology and between nasal symptoms and HADS scores. Statistical analysis revealed a significant decrease of scores at T1 in the LN treatment group as concerns VAS, SNOT-22, HADS-Anxiety test and a remarkable reduction of inflammatory cells detected with nasal cytology. Our study showed that higher levels of SNOT-22 corresponded to a higher level of HADS-Anxiety. The mechanisms underlying this relationship in AR patients are currently unknown, but we can suppose that improving mucosal trophism may contribute to the decrease of nasal symptoms and anxiety scores. The improvement of nasal symptoms, as measured by SNOT-22, was significantly correlated with the objective results of nasal cytology. These relationships between SNOT-22 and nasal cytology and between anxiety and cytology were investigated for the first time in our research.

Vehiculation of Active Principles as a Way to Create Smart and Biofunctional Textiles

In some specific fields of application (e.g., cosmetics, pharmacy), textile substrates need to incorporate sensible molecules (active principles) that can be affected if they are sprayed freely on the surface of fabrics. The effect is not controlled and sometimes this application is consequently neglected. Microencapsulation and functionalization using biocompatible vehicles and polymers has recently been demonstrated as an interesting way to avoid these problems. The use of defined structures (polymers) that protect the active principle allows controlled drug delivery and regulation of the dosing in every specific case. Many authors have studied the use of three different methodologies to incorporate active principles into textile substrates, and assessed their quantitative behavior. Citronella oil, as a natural insect repellent, has been vehicularized with two different protective substances; cyclodextrine (CD), which forms complexes with it, and microcapsules of gelatin-arabic gum. The retention capability of the complexes and microcapsules has been assessed using an in vitro experiment. Structural characteristics have been evaluated using thermogravimetric methods and microscopy. The results show very interesting long-term capability of dosing and promising applications for home use and on clothes in environmental conditions with the need to fight against insects. Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and gallic acid (GA) have both been vehicularized using two liposomic-based structures: Internal wool lipids (IWL) and phosphatidylcholine (PC). They were applied on polyamide and cotton substrates and the delivery assessed. The amount of active principle in the different layers of skin was determined in vitro using a Franz-cell diffusion chamber. The results show many new possibilities for application in skin therapeutics. Biofunctional devices with controlled functionality can be built using textile substrates and vehicles. As has been demonstrated, their behavior can be assessed using in vitro methods that make extrapolation to their final applications possible.

Potential Applications of Phyto-Derived Ceramides in Improving Epidermal Barrier Function

The outer most layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes which are coated by a cornified envelope and embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure. It is responsible for the skin barrier function. Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid membranes. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Previously, the effectiveness of supplementation of synthetic and animal-based CERs in replenishing the depleted natural skin CERs and restoring the skin barrier function have been investigated. Recently, however, the barrier function improving effect of plant-derived CERs has attracted much attention. Phyto-derived CERs (phytoCERs) are preferable due to their assumed higher safety as they are mostly isolated from dietary sources. The beneficial effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements for skin hydration and skin barrier reinforcement have been indicated in several studies involving animal models as well as human subjects. Ingestible dietary supplements containing phytoCERs are also widely available on the market. Nonetheless, little effort has been made to investigate the potential cosmetic applications of topically administered phytoCERs. Therefore, summarizing the foregoing investigations and identifying the gap in the scientific data on plant-derived CERs intended for skin-health benefits are of paramount importance. In this review, an attempt is made to synthesize the information available in the literature regarding the effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements on skin hydration and barrier function with the underlying mechanisms.

Sorption-desorption test for functional assessment of skin treated with a lipid system that mimics epidermal lamellar bodies

BACKGROUND

Many skin diseases are associated with either increases or decreases in lamellar body secretion, or dysfunctional lamellar bodies. Consequently, diseased skin is characterized by reduced barrier function and altered lipid composition and organization. Human skin is commonly evaluated in vivo with non-invasive biophysical techniques. The dynamic functions of the skin are evaluated with repeat measurements such as the sorption-desorption test (SDT).

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to evaluate in vivo skin hydration-dehydration kinetics after treatment with a lipid system that mimics the morphology, structure and composition of lamellar bodies in both healthy and irritated human skin.

METHODS

A patch with an aqueous solution of 2% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) was used to irritate the skin of the volunteers. The SDT was performed with the CM 820 corneometer.

RESULTS

After treatment with this system, both healthy and SLS-irritated skin increased their ability to retain water and to release water slowly during the desorption phase.

CONCLUSIONS

Treatment with this system seems to reinforce the barrier function in both healthy and SLS-irritated human skin. Therefore, the present study provides evidence that this system could be of interest for developing future treatments for protecting and repairing the skin.

Mometasone furoate-loaded cold processed oil-in-water emulsions: in vitro and in vivo studies

Over the years, research has focused on strategies to increase benefit/risk ratio of corticoids. However, vehicles intended for topical glucocorticoids delivery with an improved benefit/risk ratio are still on demand. The aim of this work was the in vitro and in vivo characterization of cold processed oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions intended for mometasone furoate (MF) delivery to induce drug targeting to upper skin strata, decreasing adverse effects. Two o/w emulsions, containing 0.1% of MF, were developed differing in the glycol used (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol - PT and ethoxydiglycol - TC emulsions). In vitro permeation studies revealed that these emulsions are suitable vehicles for the delivery of MF containing ingredients which are responsible for a drastically increased on the permeability coefficients of MF from a theoretical value of 1.18 × 10(-4 )cm/h to 5.20 × 10(-4) ± 2.05 × 10(-4 )cm/h and 6.30 × 10(-4) ± 2.94 × 10(-4 )cm/h, for PT and TC, respectively. The tape stripping results showed that the amount of drug that reached the viable skin layers was very low (1.99 %) and the amount that remained in the stratum corneum (SC) was 10.61%. The in vivo studies showed that the developed formulations decreased the edema and erythema in mice skin in more that 90%, assuring, at least, the same anti-inflammatory effect compared with the commercial cream. PT placebo demonstrated to contribute to restore the skin barrier by increasing the amount of lipids within the human skin.

Structural determination of glucosylceramides in the distillation remnants of shochu, the Japanese traditional liquor, and its production by Aspergillus kawachii

Shochu is traditional Japanese liquor produced from various crops and fungi Aspergillus kawachi or A. awamorii . The amount of unutilized shochu distillation remnants is increasing because of the recent prohibition of ocean dumping of these remnants. In this Article, we first describe the structures of glucosylceramides contained in shochu distillation remnants by fragment ion analysis using ESI-tandem mass spectrometry. Shochu distillation remnant produced from barley contained glucosylceramides d18:2/C16:0h, d18:2/C20:0h, d19:2/C18:1h, and d18:2/C18:0h. Koji (barley fermented with A. kawachii) contained the same glucosylceramides. Shochu distillation remnants produced from rice contained glucosylceramides d18:2/C18:0h and d19:2/C18:1h. The culture broth of A. kawachii contained glucosylceramides d19:2/C18:1h and d19:2/C18:0h. These results indicate that the glucosylceramides contained in crops and those produced by A. kawachii transfer through the processes of fermentation with yeast and distillation to the shochu distillation remnant. This information will enable utilization of shochu distillation remnants and koji as novel sources of sphingolipids.

Biofunctional textiles prepared with liposomes: in vivo and in vitro assessment

A sun filter, ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) used as a tracer, was vehiculized by liposomes made up of internal wool lipids (IWL) or phosphatidylcholine (PC) and applied onto cotton and polyamide fabrics by exhaustion treatments. After topical applications of textiles on human volunteers, skin properties were evaluated by non-invasive biophysical techniques. Two methodologies based on percutaneous absorption were used to determine the content of the active principle penetration into the skin. PC liposomes showed more affinity for the fabric than IWL liposomes. Moreover, polyamide fabrics absorbed a slightly higher percentage of liposomes than cotton fabrics. A significantly higher amount of EHMC skin penetration was found when the biofunctional textiles were topically applied than when formulations were applied onto the skin. Moreover, the polyamide was the fibre with the highest released properties in all cases.

Moisturizing effect of oleogel/hydrogel mixtures

The aim of this study was to obtain new vehicles for topical formulations based on the mixture of hydrogels (aqueous systems) with oleogels (lipophilic systems). Several formulations were prepared using different oleogels mixed with polyacrylic acid hydrogel without addition of other ingredients. The moisturizing effect of the bigels was assessed along with the hydrogel and oleogels used in their preparation by carrying out an in vivo study with 14 healthy volunteers. Corneometer measurements were taken each hour during a five-hour period after product's application. Stability tests (storage at 20 and 40 degrees C for six months) and mechanical characterization were also carried out. Stability tests showed no modifications of the textural properties and appearance over a six-month period at 20 degrees C. At accelerated conditions, modifications of colour and textural properties were detected after six months' storage. While retaining the mechanical and sensory properties of the hydrogel, the bigels showed simultaneously an enhanced moisturizing effect, making them promising candidates for topical formulations.

Liposomes as Alternative Vehicles for Sun Filter Formulations

The aim of our study was to determine the influence of several types of liposomes with a different lipid composition on the percutaneous absorption of one conventional sun filter with a lipophilic character (ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate) using both in vitro and in vivo methodologies. Three different liposomes were prepared with unsaturated and saturated phosphatidylcholine (PC, HPC), and with a wool lipid mixture (IWL) with a composition similar to that of the stratum corneum lipids. Results showed that the liquid crystalline state associated with PC liposomes plays a key role in enhancing skin penetration. when liposomes with a composition and structural organization similar to that of the stratum corneum lipids (HPC and IWL) are used, the skin penetration is retarded, suggesting a certain reinforcement of the stratum corneum barrier. These two types of liposomes could be regarded as alternatives to conventional oil/water emulsions in the formulations of lipidic sun filters. Finally, an acceptable correlation was obtained using both in vitro and in vivo methodologies to evaluate the corresponding skin absorption profile.

Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids derived from wool

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Skin moisturisation, elasticity, feel and appearance can all be improved through the topical application of protein hydrolysates. Recent studies suggest that supplementing intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum can enhance the functioning of the skin.

METHODS

In this study, a hydrolysed keratin peptide (molecular weight <1000 Da) was prepared from wool and tested on skin in two different formulations: an aqueous solution and an internal wool lipids (IWL) liposome suspension. In vivo long-term studies were performed to evaluate the water barrier function of the skin after topical application of different formulations. During the treatment period, hydration and elasticity were determined. A sorption-desorption test was also performed to assess the hygroscopic properties and water-holding capacity of the different treated skin sites.

RESULTS

Significant differences were found between the control and treated sites, with the treated areas showing an increase in hydration and elasticity as a result of keratin peptide application. Measurements also indicated that the keratin formulations reinforce the skin barrier integrity, improving its water-holding capacity.

CONCLUSION

A combination of the keratin peptide with the IWL showed beneficial effects, indicating that this combination is suitable for designing new cosmetics products.

Visualisation of liposomes prepared from skin and stratum corneum lipids by transmission electron microscopy

Transmission electron microscopy was used to visualize the liposomes prepared from total lipids extracted from mouse, human and porcine skin and stratum corneum. The total lipid composition was monitored by high precision thin layer chromatography coupled with a flame identification detector (HPTLC/FID, Iatroscan) and the fatty acid content of the samples was monitored by gas chromatography. The liposomes were prepared by the thin lipid film hydration method and they were visualized by transmission electron microscopy after negative staining using uranyl acetate. The structure of the vesicular structures present in the formulations largely depended on the lipid composition of the samples. The liposomes with high ceramide content were drop like vesicles with sharp tips, whereas the presence of excessive phospholipid content lead to bag like liposomes with two hemispheres divided by a membrane. Finally, the tendency of triacylglycerides to accumulate in the lipophylic region of the lipid bilayer, forms membranes with uneven thickness, resulting in structures with undulated membranes. A degree of fusion depending on the phospholipid content was also observed.

Evaluation of a new pressure ulcer preventive dressing containing ceramide 2 with low frictional outer layer

AIM

This paper is a report of an evaluation of the effectiveness of a newly developed dressing for preventing persistent erythema and pressure ulcer development and improving the water-holding capacity without increasing the skin pH in bedridden older patients.

BACKGROUND

Shear forces and skin dryness play important roles in persistent erythema and pressure ulcer development. To eliminate these risks, we developed a dressing to reduce shear forces and improve the water-holding capacity. However, the effects of this dressing in clinical settings remain unknown.

METHOD

An experimental bilateral comparison study was conducted at a hospital in Japan in 2004 with 37 bedridden older patients at risk of pressure ulcer development. The dressing was randomly applied to the right or left greater trochanter for 3 weeks. No dressing was applied to the opposite side as a control. The skin was monitored weekly during the 3-week application for persistent erythema and pressure ulcer development. Skin hydration and pH were also assessed during the intervention and for 1 week after dressing removal.

FINDINGS

The incidence of persistent erythema was significantly lower in the intervention area than the control area [P = 0.007, RR 0.18 (95% CI: 0.05-0.73) and NNT 4.11 (2.50-11.63) ]. No pressure ulcers occurred in either the intervention or control area. Skin hydration increased significantly during dressing application and remained high after removal (P < 0.001) relative to the control area. Skin pH decreased significantly during the application (P < 0.001) but returned to control levels after removal (P = 0.38).

CONCLUSION

This safe and effective dressing can be used for patients with highly prominent bones and dry skin to prevent pressure ulcers.

Thermotropic behavior of ceramides and their isolation from wool

The composition of internal wool lipids (IWL) resembles that of lipids present in other keratinic tissues such as human hair or the stratum corneum. Advances in the isolation of ceramides from wool and in the characterization of their thermotropic properties could facilitate their application in human skin care treatments. IWL are solvents extracted from wool fibers. Ceramide isolation is carried out by medium-pressure liquid chromatography. The different fractions obtained were analyzed quantitatively by thin layer chromatography coupled to an automated flame ionization detector and by high-performance thin layer chromatography using a densitometric detector. Two important fractions were isolated: one was a mixture of different ceramides and the other was exclusively made of ceramide 2 (nonhydroxy acid sphingosine [NS]). The thermotropic behavior of IWL and their isolated fractions were studied by thermogravimetric analysis, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and by attenuated total reflection Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) methodologies. The transition temperature (Tm) obtained was compared with the results of the IWL extract, stratum corneum lipids, and the values found in the bibliography for isolated ceramides. The Tm obtained for IWL (48 degrees C) was lower than that achieved for SCL (65 degrees C). This discrepancy could be due to the different ceramide pattern and to the larger amounts of free fatty acids present in the IWL extract. Although the isolated ceramides had higher Tm values, they resembled the values reported in the bibliography. The suitability of the fraction composed exclusively of ceramide 2 [NS] for skin applications was confirmed by ATR-FTIR and DSC.

Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin

Stratum corneum intercellular lipids play an important role in the regulation of skin water barrier homeostasis and water-holding capacity. Modification of intercellular lipid organization and composition may impair these properties. Patients with skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, contact dermatitis, and some genetic disorders have diminished skin barrier function. Lipid composition in diseased skin is characterized by decreased levels of ceramide and altered ceramide profiles. To clarify mechanisms underlying ceramides as a causative factor of skin disease, investigators have examined the activity of enzymes in the stratum corneum on ceramide production and degradation. The activities of ceramidase, sphingomyelin deacylase, and glucosylceramide deacylase are increased in epidermal atopic dermatitis. Investigators have also compared the expression levels of sphingolipid activator protein in the epidermis of normal and diseased skin. A decreased level of prosaposin has been identified in both atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. These results indicate that decreased ceramide level is a major etiologic factor in skin diseases. Hence, topical skin lipid supplementation may provide opportunities for controlling ceramide deficiency and improving skin condition.

Determination of glucosylceramide contents in crop tissues and by-products from their processing

Glucosylceramides were surveyed in crop tissues and by-products from their processing. Apple pulp contained the highest amount (0.94 mg g(-1)) of glucosylceramide and relatively less sterylglucoside, which is the major contaminant of partially purified glucosylceramide. Glucosylceramide from apple pulp was principally composed of 2-hydroxypalmitic acid as the fatty acid, 4-hydroxy-cis-8-sphingenine as the sphingoid base, and glucose as the hexose, similar to those of commercial preparations isolated from rice bran or wheat germ. Apple pulp may be an alternative source for the commercial production of glucosylceramides.

New advances on the functions of epidermal growth factor receptor and ceramides in skin cell differentiation, disorders and cancers

Recent advances in understanding of the biological functions of the epidermal growth factor and epidermal growth factor receptor (EGF-EGFR) system and ceramide production for the maintenance of skin integrity and barrier function are reported. In particular, the opposite roles of EGFR and ceramide cascades in epithelial keratinocyte proliferation, migration and terminal differentiation are described. Moreover, the functions of ceramides in the epidermal permeability barrier are reviewed. The alterations in EGFR signaling and ceramide metabolism, which might be involved in the etiopathogenesis of diverse skin disorders and cancers, are described. New progress in understanding of skin organization, which might provide the basis for the design of new transcutaneous drug delivery techniques as well as for the development of new therapies of skin disorders and cancers, are reported.

Using Skin Models to Assess the Effects of a Protection Cream on Skin Barrier Function

BACKGROUND

There is a basic necessity to understand the mechanisms of the protective effects of emulsions. This would promote the development of protective cosmetics and therefore improve the prevention and treatment of occupational skin diseases. However, for such studies, no reliable skin model is available.

OBJECTIVE

An in vitro skin model test was developed to evaluate the protective mechanism of cosmetic ingredients.

METHODS

The efficacy of three products was assessed by an in vivo test (Repetitive Occlusive Irritation Test) and then 3-dimensional skin model tests were carried out.

RESULTS

In vivo test results demonstrate that the best protection against sodium dodecyl sulphate is offered by a multiple emulsion. In the case of a skin model test, sodium dodecyl sulphate led to cell damage, an increase in pro-inflammatory markers and some barrier lipids. The multiple emulsion increased the content of skin lipids, without inducing irritation or cell death.

CONCLUSION

Skin models react similarly to sodium dodecyl sulphate compared to human skin and therefore they are suitable to study barrier repair after sodium dodecyl sulphate damage. It is likely that the superior protective effect of the multiple emulsion in vivo is based on the increased amount of skin barrier lipids.

Ceramides and skin function

Ceramides are the major lipid constituent of lamellar sheets present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. These lamellar sheets are thought to provide the barrier property of the epidermis. It is generally accepted that the intercellular lipid domain is composed of approximately equimolar concentrations of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. Ceramides are a structurally heterogeneous and complex group of sphingolipids containing derivatives of sphingosine bases in amide linkage with a variety of fatty acids. Differences in chain length, type and extent of hydroxylation, saturation etc. are responsible for the heterogeneity of the epidermal sphingolipids. It is well known that ceramides play an essential role in structuring and maintaining the water permeability barrier function of the skin. In conjunction with the other stratum corneum lipids, they form ordered structures. An essential factor is the physical state of the lipid chains in the nonpolar regions of the bilayers. The stratum corneum intercellular lipid lamellae, the aliphatic chains in the ceramides and the fatty acids are mostly straight long-chain saturated compounds with a high melting point and a small polar head group. This means that at physiological temperatures, the lipid chains are mostly in a solid crystalline or gel state, which exhibits low lateral diffusional properties and is less permeable than the state of liquid crystalline membranes, which are present at higher temperatures. The link between skin disorders and changes in barrier lipid composition, especially in ceramides, is difficult to prove because of the many variables involved. However, most skin disorders that have a diminished barrier function present a decrease in total ceramide content with some differences in the ceramide pattern. Formulations containing lipids identical to those in skin and, in particular, some ceramide supplementation could improve disturbed skin conditions. Incomplete lipid mixtures yield abnormal lamellar body contents, and disorder intercellular lamellae, whereas complete lipid mixtures result in normal lamellar bodies and intercellular bilayers. The utilization of physiological lipids according to these parameters have potential as new forms of topical therapy for dermatoses. An alternative strategy to improving barrier function by topical application of the various mature lipid species is to enhance the natural lipid-synthetic capability of the epidermis through the topical delivery of lipid precursors.