Topobiology of human pigmentation: P-cadherin selectively stimulates hair follicle melanogenesis

Human Hair Graying Revisited: Principles, Misconceptions, and Key Research Frontiers

Hair graying holds psychosocial importance and serves as an excellent model for studying human pigmentation and aging in an accessible miniorgan. Current evidence suggests that graying results from an interindividually varying mixture of cumulative oxidative and DNA damage, excessive mTORC1 activity, melanocyte senescence, and inadequate production of pigmentation-promoting factors in the hair matrix. Various regulators modulate this process, including genetic factors (DNA repair defects and IRF4 sequence variation, peripheral clock genes, P-cadherin signaling, neuromediators, HGF, KIT ligand secretion, and autophagic flux. This leads to reduced MITF- and tyrosinase-controlled melanogenesis, defective melanosome transfer to precortical matrix keratinocytes, and eventual depletion of hair follicle (HF) pigmentary unit (HFPU) melanocytes and their local progenitors. Graying becomes irreversible only when bulge melanocyte stem cells are also depleted, occurring later in this process. Distinct pigmentary microenvironments are created as the HF cycles: early anagen is the most conducive phase for melanocytic reintegration and activation, and only during anagen can the phenotype of hair graying and repigmentation manifest, whereas the HFPU disassembles during catagen. The temporary reversibility of graying is highlighted by several drugs and hormones that induce repigmentation, indicating potential target pathways. We advise caution in directly applying mouse model concepts, define major open questions, and discuss future human antigraying strategies.

Genetic characterization of Macaca arctoides: A highlight of key genes and pathways

When compared to the approximately 22 other macaque species, Macaca arctoides has many unique phenotypes. These traits fall into various phenotypic categories, including genitalia, coloration, mating, and olfactory traits. Here we used a previously identified whole genome set of 690 outlier genes to look for possible genetic explanations of these unique traits. Of these, 279 genes were annotated miRNAs, which are non-coding. Patterns within the remaining outliers in coding genes were investigated using GO (n = 370) and String (n = 383) analysis, which showed many interconnected immune-related genes. Further, we compared the outliers to candidate pathways associated with M. arcotides' unique phenotypes, revealing 10/690 outlier genes that overlapped these four pathways: hedgehog signaling, WNT signaling, olfactory, and melanogenesis. Of these, genes in all pathways except olfactory had higher F_ST values than the rest of the genes in the genome based on permutation tests. Overall, our results point to many genes each having a small impact on phenotype, working in tandem to cause large systemic changes. Additionally, these results may indicate pleiotropy. This seems to be especially true with the development and coloration of M. arctoides. Our results highlight that development, melanogenesis, immune function, and miRNAs may be heavily involved in M. arctoides' evolutionary history.

Adiponectin negatively regulates pigmentation, Wnt/β-catenin and HGF/c-Met signalling within human scalp hair follicles ex vivo

Adiponectin reportedly stimulates proliferation and elongation of human scalp hair follicles (HFs) ex vivo. In the current study, we investigated how adiponectin oligomers produced by perifollicular dermal white adipose tissue (dWAT), a potent source of adiponectin isoforms, influence human HF proliferation and pigmentation. To do so, we treated microdissected, organ-cultured HFs in the presence or absence of dWAT with a recombinant human adiponectin oligomer mix, or inhibited dWAT-derived adiponectin using a neutralizing antibody. Multiplex qPCR (Fluidigm) revealed that adiponectin oligomers downregulated pigmentation genes KITLG, PMEL and TYRP1 and Wnt genes AXIN2, LEF1 and WNT10B. In situ hybridization showed that adiponectin downregulated AXIN2 and LEF1, and up-regulated DKK1 within the dermal papilla (DP), a highly unusual transcriptional profile for a putative hair growth-promoting agent. Adiponectin oligomers also downregulated protein expression of the HGF receptor c-Met within the matrix and DP. However, adiponectin did not alter hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation within 48 h ex vivo, irrespective of the presence/absence of dWAT; HF pigmentation (Masson-Fontana histochemistry, tyrosinase activity) was also unchanged. In contrast, neutralizing adiponectin isoforms within HF + dWAT increased proliferation, melanin content and tyrosinase activity but resulted in fewer melanocytes and melanocytic dendrites, as assessed by gp100 immunostaining. These seemingly contradictory effects suggest that adiponectin exerts complex effects upon human HF biology, likely in parallel with the pro-pigmentation effects of dWAT- and DP-derived HGF. Our data suggest that dWAT-derived ratios of adiponectin isoforms and the cleaved, globular version of adiponectin may in fact determine how adiponectin impacts upon follicular pigmentation and growth.

A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics

The natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogenesis) inside melanosomes, and (3) the transfer of melanin granules to surrounding pre-cortical keratinocytes for their incorporation into nascent hair fibres. All these steps are under complex genetic control. The array of natural hair colour shades are ascribed to polymorphisms in several pigmentary genes. A myriad of factors acting via autocrine, paracrine, and endocrine mechanisms also contributes for hair colour diversity. Given the enormous social and cosmetic importance attributed to hair colour, hair dyeing is today a common practice. Nonetheless, the adverse effects of the long-term usage of such cosmetic procedures demand the development of new methods for colour change. In this context, case reports of hair lightening, darkening and repigmentation as a side-effect of the therapeutic usage of many drugs substantiate the possibility to tune hair colour by interfering with the biology of follicular pigmentary units. By scrutinizing mammalian pigmentation, this review pinpoints key targetable processes for the development of innovative cosmetics that can safely change the hair colour from the inside out.

Concentration-dependent stimulation of melanin production as well as melanocyte and keratinocyte proliferation by melatonin in human eyelid epidermis

It remains unclear how the multifunctional indoleamine neurohormone, melatonin, alters melanin production and melanocytes within intact human epidermis under physiologically relevant conditions. In the current pilot study, we aimed to clarify this in long-term organ-cultured, full-thickness human eyelid skin, selected for its clinically recognized sensitivity to pigmentation-modulatory hormones. Warthin-Starry histochemistry showed that 100 μM melatonin significantly increased epidermal melanin content and melanocyte dendricity after 6 days of organ culture, even though tyrosinase activity in situ was inhibited, as assessed by quantitative immunohistomorphometry. While the higher melatonin dose tested here (200 μM) did not change epidermal melanization, but again inhibited tyrosinase activity, it increased the number and proliferation of both gp100⁺ epidermal melanocytes and keratinocytes as well as protein expression of the premelanosomal marker, gp100, ex vivo. Contrary to most previous studies, these eyelid skin organ culture results suggest that long-term melatonin application exerts overall stimulatory, dose-dependent effects on the epidermal pigmentary unit within intact human skin, which appear surprisingly tyrosinase-independent. While these provocative preliminary findings require further work-up and independent confirmation, they encourage one to systematically explore whether prolonged melatonin therapy can (re-)stimulate melanogenesis and increase the pool/activity of epidermal melanocytes in hypopigmented skin lesions.

Revisiting the role of melatonin in human melanocyte physiology: A skin context perspective

The evolutionarily ancient methoxyindoleamine, melatonin, has long perplexed investigators by its versatility of functions and mechanisms of action, which include the regulation of vertebrate pigmentation. Although first discovered through its potent skin-lightening effects in amphibians, melatonin's role in human skin and hair follicle pigmentation and its impact on melanocyte physiology remain unclear. Synthesizing our limited current understanding of this role, we specifically examine its impact on melanogenesis, oxidative biology, mitochondrial function, melanocyte senescence, and pigmentation-related clock gene activity, with emphasis on human skin, yet without ignoring instructive pointers from nonhuman species. Given the strict dependence of melanocyte functions on the epithelial microenvironment, we underscore that melanocyte responses to melatonin are best interrogated in a physiological tissue context. Current evidence suggests that melatonin and some of its metabolites inhibit both, melanogenesis (via reducing tyrosinase activity) and melanocyte proliferation by stimulating melatonin membrane receptors (MT1, MT2). We discuss whether putative melanogenesis-inhibitory effects of melatonin may occur via activation of Nrf2-mediated PI3K/AKT signaling, estrogen receptor-mediated and/or melanocortin-1 receptor- and cAMP-dependent signaling, and/or via melatonin-regulated changes in peripheral clock genes that regulate human melanogenesis, namely Bmal1 and Per1. Melatonin and its metabolites also accumulate in melanocytes where they exert net cyto- and senescence-protective as well as antioxidative effects by operating as free radical scavengers, stimulating the synthesis and activity of ROS scavenging enzymes and other antioxidants, promoting DNA repair, and enhancing mitochondrial function. We argue that it is clinically and biologically important to definitively clarify whether melanocyte cell culture-based observations translate into melatonin-induced pigmentary changes in a physiological tissue context, that is, in human epidermis and hair follicles ex vivo, and are confirmed by clinical trial results. After defining major open questions in this field, we close by suggesting how to begin answering them in clinically relevant, currently available preclinical in situ research models.

Dermal Adipose Tissue Secretes HGF to Promote Human Hair Growth and Pigmentation

Hair follicles (HFs) are immersed within dermal white adipose tissue (dWAT), yet human adipocyte‒HF communication remains unexplored. Therefore, we investigated how perifollicular adipocytes affect the physiology of human anagen scalp HFs. Quantitative immunohistomorphometry, X-ray microcomputed tomography, and transmission electron microscopy showed that the number and size of perifollicular adipocytes declined during anagen‒catagen transition, whereas fluorescence-lifetime imaging revealed increased lipid oxidation in adipocytes surrounding the bulge and/or sub-bulge region. Ex vivo, dWAT tendentially promoted hair shaft production, and significantly stimulated hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and HF pigmentation. Both dWAT pericytes and PREF1/DLK1⁺ adipocyte progenitors secreted HGF during human HF‒dWAT co-culture, for which the c-Met receptor was expressed in the hair matrix and dermal papilla. These effects were reproduced using recombinant HGF and abrogated by an HGF-neutralizing antibody. Laser-capture microdissection‒based microarray analysis of the hair matrix showed that dWAT-derived HGF upregulated keratin (K) genes (K27, K73, K75, K84, K86) and TCHH. Mechanistically, HGF stimulated Wnt/β-catenin activity in the human hair matrix (increased AXIN2, LEF1) by upregulating WNT6 and WNT10B, and inhibiting SFRP1 in the dermal papilla. Our study demonstrates that dWAT regulates human hair growth and pigmentation through HGF secretion, and thus identifies dWAT and HGF as important novel molecular and cellular targets for therapeutic intervention in human hair growth and pigmentation disorders.

The biology of human hair greying

Hair greying (canities) is one of the earliest, most visible ageing-associated phenomena, whose modulation by genetic, psychoemotional, oxidative, senescence-associated, metabolic and nutritional factors has long attracted skin biologists, dermatologists, and industry. Greying is of profound psychological and commercial relevance in increasingly ageing populations. In addition, the onset and perpetuation of defective melanin production in the human anagen hair follicle pigmentary unit (HFPU) provides a superb model for interrogating the molecular mechanisms of ageing in a complex human mini-organ, and greying-associated defects in bulge melanocyte stem cells (MSCs) represent an intriguing system of neural crest-derived stem cell senescence. Here, we emphasize that human greying invariably begins with the gradual decline in melanogenesis, including reduced tyrosinase activity, defective melanosome transfer and apoptosis of HFPU melanocytes, and is thus a primary event of the anagen hair bulb, not the bulge. Eventually, the bulge MSC pool becomes depleted as well, at which stage greying becomes largely irreversible. There is still no universally accepted model of human hair greying, and the extent of genetic contributions to greying remains unclear. However, oxidative damage likely is a crucial driver of greying via its disruption of HFPU melanocyte survival, MSC maintenance, and of the enzymatic apparatus of melanogenesis itself. While neuroendocrine factors [e.g. alpha melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH), ß-endorphin, corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH), thyrotropin-releasing hormone (TRH)], and micropthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) are well-known regulators of human hair follicle melanocytes and melanogenesis, how exactly these and other factors [e.g. thyroid hormones, hepatocyte growth factor (HGF), P-cadherin, peripheral clock activity] modulate greying requires more detailed study. Other important open questions include how HFPU melanocytes age intrinsically, how psychoemotional stress impacts this process, and how current insights into the gerontobiology of the human HFPU can best be translated into retardation or reversal of greying.

Methods to Study Human Hair Follicle Growth Ex Vivo: Human Microdissected Hair Follicle and Human Full Thickness Skin Organ Culture

The culture of microdissected hair follicles (HFs) and scalp skin enriched in terminal HFs are the best currently available preclinical assays for studying hair and skin biology/pathology in the human system. While microdissected HF organ culture only allows the testing of compounds added into the culture medium, mimicking a systemic application, the scalp skin organ culture also is suitable to test topical and intradermal applications. Here, we describe different methods for isolation of human scalp HFs, the procedures for culturing the scalp skin and microdissected HFs and we also outline different delivery techniques (e.g., topical, systemic) to test active and control substances.

Culture of the human pilosebaceous unit, hair follicle and sebaceous gland

Terence Kealey first pioneered the isolation and organ maintenance of human eccrine and sebaceous glands in the early to mid-1980. This led to subsequent methods describing the isolation and culture of human hair follicles, the human pilosebaceous unit as well as the sebaceous duct. The importance of these models in the study of the biology of human skin glands and appendages has been demonstrated in numerous publications and their importance as models for animal replacement, refinement and reduction (3Rs) is increasingly important. In particular, in vitro (ex vivo) hair follicle culture has played a significant part in helping elucidate the role of signalling molecules in regulating hair growth and hair fibre formation and has been especially useful in understanding metabolic aspects of hair growth. However, obtaining sufficient numbers of hair follicles is becoming increasingly difficult as plastic surgery becomes less invasive and smaller skin samples provided. There is therefore an urgent requirement for the next generation of in vitro models using cell lines and tissue engineering, and this has led to the development of immortalised cell lines as well as attempts to model hair follicle embryogenesis in vitro and development of skin on a chip.

Heterocellular molecular contacts in the mammalian stem cell niche

Adult tissue homeostasis and repair relies on prompt and appropriate intervention by tissue-specific adult stem cells (SCs). SCs have the ability to self-renew; upon appropriate stimulation, they proliferate and give rise to specialized cells. An array of environmental signals is important for maintenance of the SC pool and SC survival, behavior, and fate. Within this special microenvironment, commonly known as the stem cell niche (SCN), SC behavior and fate are regulated by soluble molecules and direct molecular contacts via adhesion molecules providing connections to local supporting cells and the extracellular matrix. Besides the extensively discussed array of soluble molecules, the expression of adhesion molecules and molecular contacts is another fundamental mechanism regulating niche occupancy and SC mobilization upon activation. Some adhesion molecules are differentially expressed and have tissue-specific consequences, likely reflecting the structural differences in niche composition and design, especially the presence or absence of a stromal counterpart. However, the distribution and identity of intercellular molecular contacts for adhesion and adhesion-mediated signaling within stromal and non-stromal SCN have not been thoroughly studied. This review highlights common details or significant differences in cell-to-cell contacts within representative stromal and non-stromal niches that could unveil new standpoints for stem cell biology and therapy.

The epidermal polarity protein Par3 is a non-cell autonomous suppressor of malignant melanoma

Mescher et al. uncover a novel tissue-borne tumor suppression mechanism, engaging polarity proteins in the epithelial microenvironment that prevent malignant outgrowth of neighboring cell types through control of heterologous cell–cell contacts. Moreover, their data support an emerging role of P-cadherin, which is frequently amplified in human carcinoma, as a protumorigenic and proinvasive adhesion molecule, thus placing it as a promising druggable target to disrupt tumor–microenvironment interactions for anticancer therapy.

Melanoma, an aggressive skin malignancy with increasing lifetime risk, originates from melanocytes (MCs) that are in close contact with surrounding epidermal keratinocytes (KCs). How the epidermal microenvironment controls melanomagenesis remains poorly understood. In this study, we identify an unexpected non–cell autonomous role of epidermal polarity proteins, molecular determinants of cytoarchitecture, in malignant melanoma. Epidermal Par3 inactivation in mice promotes MC dedifferentiation, motility, and hyperplasia and, in an autochthonous melanoma model, results in increased tumor formation and lung metastasis. KC-specific Par3 loss up-regulates surface P-cadherin that is essential to promote MC proliferation and phenotypic switch toward dedifferentiation. In agreement, low epidermal PAR3 and high P-cadherin expression correlate with human melanoma progression, whereas elevated P-cadherin levels are associated with reduced survival of melanoma patients, implying that this mechanism also drives human disease. Collectively, our data show that reduced KC Par3 function fosters a permissive P-cadherin–dependent niche for MC transformation, invasion, and metastasis. This reveals a previously unrecognized extrinsic tumor-suppressive mechanism, whereby epithelial polarity proteins dictate the cytoarchitecture and fate of other tissue-resident cells to suppress their malignant outgrowth.

RBM28, a protein deficient in ANE syndrome, regulates hair follicle growth via miR-203 and p63

Alopecia-neurological defects-endocrinopathy (ANE) syndrome is a rare inherited hair disorder, which was shown to result from decreased expression of the RNA-binding motif protein 28 (RBM28). In this study, we attempted to delineate the role of RBM28 in hair biology. First, we sought to obtain evidence for the direct involvement of RBM28 in hair growth. When RBM28 was downregulated in human hair follicle (HF) organ cultures, we observed catagen induction and HF growth arrest, indicating that RBM28 is necessary for normal hair growth. We also aimed at identifying molecular targets of RBM28. Given that an RBM28 homologue was recently found to regulate miRNA biogenesis in C. elegans and given the known pivotal importance of miRNAs for proper hair follicle development, we studied global miRNA expression profile in cells knocked down for RBM28. This analysis revealed that RBM28 controls the expression of miR-203. miR-203 was found to regulate in turn TP63, encoding the transcription factor p63, which is critical for hair morphogenesis. In conclusion, RBM28 contributes to HF growth regulation through modulation of miR-203 and p63 activity.

The peripheral clock regulates human pigmentation

Although the regulation of pigmentation is well characterized, it remains unclear whether cell-autonomous controls regulate the cyclic on-off switching of pigmentation in the hair follicle (HF). As human HFs and epidermal melanocytes express clock genes and proteins, and given that core clock genes (PER1, BMAL1) modulate human HF cycling, we investigated whether peripheral clock activity influences human HF pigmentation. We found that silencing BMAL1 or PER1 in human HFs increased HF melanin content. Furthermore, tyrosinase expression and activity, as well as TYRP1 and TYRP2 mRNA levels, gp100 protein expression, melanocyte dendricity, and the number gp100+ HF melanocytes, were all significantly increased in BMAL1 and/or PER1-silenced HFs. BMAL1 or PER1 silencing also increased epidermal melanin content, gp100 protein expression, and tyrosinase activity in human skin. These effects reflect direct modulation of melanocytes, as BMAL1 and/or PER1 silencing in isolated melanocytes increased tyrosinase activity and TYRP1/2 expression. Mechanistically, BMAL1 knockdown reduces PER1 transcription, and PER1 silencing induces phosphorylation of the master regulator of melanogenesis, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, thus stimulating human melanogenesis and melanocyte activity in situ and in vitro. Therefore, the molecular clock operates as a cell-autonomous modulator of human pigmentation and may be targeted for future therapeutic strategies.

The role of P-cadherin in skin biology and skin pathology: lessons from the hair follicle

Adherens junctions (AJs) are one of the major intercellular junctions in various epithelia including the epidermis and the follicular epithelium. AJs connect the cell surface to the actin cytoskeleton and comprise classic transmembrane cadherins, such as P-cadherin, armadillo family proteins, and actin microfilaments. Loss-of-function mutations in CDH3, which encodes P-cadherin, result in two allelic autosomal recessive disorders: hypotrichosis with juvenile macular dystrophy (HJMD) and ectodermal dysplasia, ectrodactyly, and macular dystrophy (EEM) syndromes. Both syndromes feature sparse hair heralding progressive macular dystrophy. EEM syndrome is characterized in addition by ectodermal and limb defects. Recent studies have demonstrated that, together with its involvement in cell-cell adhesion, P-cadherin plays a crucial role in regulating cell signaling, malignant transformation, and other major intercellular processes. Here, we review the roles of P-cadherin in skin and hair biology, with emphasize on human hair growth, cycling and pigmentation.

Mitochondrial function in murine skin epithelium is crucial for hair follicle morphogenesis and epithelial-mesenchymal interactions

Here, we studied how epithelial energy metabolism impacts overall skin development by selectively deleting intraepithelial mtDNA in mice by ablating a key maintenance factor (Tfam(EKO)), which induces loss of function of the electron transport chain (ETC). Quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry demonstrated that Tfam(EKO) mice showed significantly reduced hair follicle (HF) density and morphogenesis, fewer intrafollicular keratin15+ epithelial progenitor cells, increased apoptosis, and reduced proliferation. Tfam(EKO) mice also displayed premature entry into (aborted) HF cycling by apoptosis-driven HF regression (catagen). Ultrastructurally, Tfam(EKO) mice exhibited severe HF dystrophy, pigmentary abnormalities, and telogen-like condensed dermal papillae. Epithelial HF progenitor cell differentiation (Plet1, Lrig1 Lef1, and β-catenin), sebaceous gland development (adipophilin, Scd1, and oil red), and key mediators/markers of epithelial-mesenchymal interactions during skin morphogenesis (NCAM, versican, and alkaline phosphatase) were all severely altered in Tfam(EKO) mice. Moreover, the number of mast cells, major histocompatibility complex class II+, or CD11b+ immunocytes in the skin mesenchyme was increased, and essentially no subcutis developed. Therefore, in contrast to their epidermal counterparts, pilosebaceous unit stem cells depend on a functional ETC. Most importantly, our findings point toward a frontier in skin biology: the coupling of HF keratinocyte mitochondrial function with the epithelial-mesenchymal interactions that drive overall development of the skin and its appendages.

A synthetic sandalwood odorant induces wound-healing processes in human keratinocytes via the olfactory receptor OR2AT4

As the outermost barrier of the body, the skin is exposed to multiple environmental factors, including temperature, humidity, mechanical stress, and chemical stimuli such as odorants that are often used in cosmetic articles. Keratinocytes, the major cell type of the epidermal layer, express a variety of different sensory receptors that enable them to react to various environmental stimuli and process information in the skin. Here we report the identification of a novel type of chemoreceptors in human keratinocytes, the olfactory receptors (ORs). We cloned and functionally expressed the cutaneous OR, OR2AT4, and identified Sandalore, a synthetic sandalwood odorant, as an agonist of this receptor. Sandalore induces strong Ca(2+) signals in cultured human keratinocytes, which are mediated by OR2AT4, as demonstrated by receptor knockdown experiments using RNA interference. The activation of OR2AT4 induces a cAMP-dependent pathway and phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinases (Erk1/2) and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinases (p38 MAPK). Moreover, the long-term stimulation of keratinocytes with Sandalore positively affected cell proliferation and migration, and regeneration of keratinocyte monolayers in an in vitro wound scratch assay. These findings combined with our studies on human skin organ cultures strongly indicate that the OR 2AT4 is involved in human keratinocyte re-epithelialization during wound-healing processes.

Cadherin 11, a miR-675 target, induces N-cadherin expression and epithelial-mesenchymal transition in melasma

Cadherin 11 (CDH11) was identified as a target of miR-675 by using a luciferase reporter assay. CDH11 expression and miR-675 expression were inversely correlated. CDH11 expression was not detected in melanocytes, but CDH11 expression in fibroblasts and keratinocytes positively influenced melanogenesis via the canonical Wnt and AKT activation pathways in cocultured melanocytes. CDH11 in fibroblasts or keratinocytes induced N-cadherin and Twist1 expression, while decreasing E-cadherin expression. This suggests a role for CDH11 in epithelial-mesenchymal transition. CDH11 in fibroblasts also induced the migration of cocultured melanocytes. N-cadherin knockdown abolished the tyrosinase expression that was induced in CDH11-overexpressing fibroblasts. Collectively, our data indicate that CDH11 in fibroblasts and keratinocytes is a target of miR-675, and could be involved in melanogenesis through the induction of N-cadherin during epithelial-mesenchymal transition.