Basis for enhanced barrier function of pigmented skin

Amphibians Exhibit Extremely High Hydric Costs of Respiration

Terrestrial environments pose many challenges to organisms, but perhaps one of the greatest is the need to breathe while maintaining water balance. Breathing air requires thin, moist respiratory surfaces, and thus the conditions necessary for gas exchange are also responsible for high rates of water loss that lead to desiccation. Across the diversity of terrestrial life, water loss acts as a universal cost of gas exchange and thus imposes limits on respiration. Amphibians are known for being vulnerable to rapid desiccation, in part because they rely on thin, permeable skin for cutaneous respiration. Yet, we have a limited understanding of the relationship between water loss and gas exchange within and among amphibian species. In this study, we evaluated the hydric costs of respiration in amphibians using the transpiration ratio, which is defined as the ratio of water loss (mol H2O d-1) to gas uptake (mol O2 d-1). A high ratio suggests greater hydric costs relative to the amount of gas uptake. We compared the transpiration ratio of amphibians with that of other terrestrial organisms to determine whether amphibians had greater hydric costs of gas uptake relative to plants, insects, birds, and mammals. We also evaluated the effects of temperature, humidity, and body mass on the transpiration ratio both within and among amphibian species. We found that hydric costs of respiration in amphibians were two to four orders of magnitude higher than the hydric costs of plants, insects, birds, and mammals. We also discovered that larger amphibians had lower hydric costs than smaller amphibians, at both the species- and individual-level. Amphibians also reduced the hydric costs of respiration at warm temperatures, potentially reflecting adaptive strategies to avoid dehydration while also meeting the demands of higher metabolic rates. Our results suggest that cutaneous respiration is an inefficient mode of respiration that produces the highest hydric costs of respiration yet to be measured in terrestrial plants and animals. Yet, amphibians largely avoid these costs by selecting aquatic or moist environments, which may facilitate more independent evolution of water loss and gas exchange.

Low-concentration imiquimod treatment promotes enhanced skin barrier functions through epidermal melanization reaction regulation

The primary function of the skin is to form a mechanical, permeability, antimicrobial, and ultraviolet radiation barrier, which is essential for maintaining physiological homeostasis. Our previous studies demonstrated that cutaneous pigmentation could promote skin barrier function in addition to providing anti-ultraviolet irradiation defense. The present study aimed to develop a new regimen that enhances skin barrier function by regulating skin pigmentation using low-concentration imiquimod. Results showed that topical application of low-concentration imiquimod effectively induced skin hyperpigmentation in the dorsal skin and external ear of mice without inducing inflammatory cell infiltration. An in vitro study also revealed that low-concentration imiquimod did not induce any cytotoxic effects on melanoma cells but triggered excessive melanin synthesis. In coculture systems, low-concentration imiquimod was noted to increase tyrosinase activity in a broader cellular context, revealing the potential role of neighboring cells in melanin production. The next-generation sequencing result indicated that PKCη and Dnm3 might regulate melanin synthesis and release during imiquimod treatment. Overall, our study presents new insights into the regulation of melanin production by low-concentration imiquimod, both in a mice model and cultured cells. Furthermore, our study highlights the potential benefits of imiquimod in promoting melanin synthesis without causing skin disruptions or inducing inflammation, validating its potential to serve as a method for enhancing skin barrier functions by regulating the epidermal melanization reaction.

Bioactive lipids in the skin barrier mediate its functionality in health and disease

Our skin protects us from external threats including ultraviolet radiation, pathogens and chemicals, and prevents excessive trans-epidermal water loss. These varied activities are reliant on a vast array of lipids, many of which are unique to skin, and that support physical, microbiological and immunological barriers. The cutaneous physical barrier is dependent on a specific lipid matrix that surrounds terminally-differentiated keratinocytes in the stratum corneum. Sebum- and keratinocyte-derived lipids cover the skin's surface and support and regulate the skin microbiota. Meanwhile, lipids signal between resident and infiltrating cutaneous immune cells, driving inflammation and its resolution in response to pathogens and other threats. Lipids of particular importance include ceramides, which are crucial for stratum corneum lipid matrix formation and therefore physical barrier functionality, fatty acids, which contribute to the acidic pH of the skin surface and regulate the microbiota, as well as the stratum corneum lipid matrix, and bioactive metabolites of these fatty acids, involved in cell signalling, inflammation, and numerous other cutaneous processes. These diverse and complex lipids maintain homeostasis in healthy skin, and are implicated in many cutaneous diseases, as well as unrelated systemic conditions with skin manifestations, and processes such as ageing. Lipids also contribute to the gut-skin axis, signalling between the two barrier sites. Therefore, skin lipids provide a valuable resource for exploration of healthy cutaneous processes, local and systemic disease development and progression, and accessible biomarker discovery for systemic disease, as well as an opportunity to fully understand the relationship between the host and the skin microbiota. Investigation of skin lipids could provide diagnostic and prognostic biomarkers, and help identify new targets for interventions. Development and improvement of existing in vitro and in silico approaches to explore the cutaneous lipidome, as well as advances in skin lipidomics technologies, will facilitate ongoing progress in skin lipid research.

Assessment of diaper dermatitis using a novel electronic health record-embedded scale

OBJECTIVE

Quantify the evolution and severity of neonatal skin injury, specifically diaper skin compromise, by embedding a validated skin integrity evaluation into the electronic health record (EHR).

METHODS

Retrospective longitudinal cohort analysis of 747 patients stratified by gestation: 22-27, 28-31, 32-24, and 35-37 weeks, from birth to discharge. Primary outcomes were time to first perineal erythema, duration as percent days with erythema, and severity as maximum score. Data were analyzed using generalized linear models and multiple linear regression methods.

RESULTS

Seventy percent had erythema and, of these, 34% had at least one high score with bleeding. Days with erythema ranged from 34-44% (p < 0.05). Days to first erythema were inversely correlated with gestational age. Risks for severe injury included short time to first erythema, 5 or more stools/day, infection, and Caucasian race/ethnicity.

CONCLUSIONS

The EHR-based scale can be readily implemented to mitigate diaper skin compromise in premature infants.

Characterization of Epidermal Function in Individuals with Primary Cutaneous Amyloidosis

Purpose

To compare epidermal biophysical properties, indicators of epidermal function, in individuals with and without primary cutaneous amyloidosis (PCA).

Patients and Methods

This study incorporated 189 patients with PCA and 166 healthy individuals. The GPSkin Barrier was employed to measure transepidermal water loss (TEWL) rates and hydration levels of the stratum corneum. The Sebumeter and the Skin pH Meter were utilized to determine the skin surface's sebum content and pH, respectively. The severity of pruritus in participants was evaluated using the visual analog scale (VAS).

Results

Compared to the control group without PCA, individuals with PCA displayed a notable increase in skin surface pH and TEWL and a decrease in the hydration levels of the stratum corneum (p<0.0001 for all parameters). Additionally, the sebum content was markedly lower in those with PCA than in the controls (p<0.0001). Of particular note, both TEWL and skin surface pH at the lesion sites on the back and the shin were more elevated in lichenoid amyloidosis (LA) and in macular amyloidosis (MA), whereas hydration levels of the stratum corneum and sebum levels were diminished in LA compared to MA (p<0.05). In conclusion, both hydration levels of the stratum corneum and sebum content exhibited an inverse relationship with pruritus severity, whereas TEWL and skin surface pH demonstrated a positive correlation with pruritus intensity.

Conclusion

The function of the epidermis is compromised in individuals diagnosed with PCA. However, the mechanisms underlying these changes await further investigation.

Stem cell-derived exosomes in the treatment of melasma and its percutaneous penetration

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES

Melasma is a refractory skin disease due to its complex pathogenesis and difficult treatment. Studies have found that human umbilical cord mesenchymal stem cell-derived exosomes (hUCMSC-Exos) could serve as a novel cell-free therapeutic strategy in regenerative and esthetic medicine. It could potentially treat melasma, but the skin barrier is a challenge. In this study, we aim to explore the safety and efficacy of hUCMSC-Exos in the treatment of melasma and the means to promote its percutaneous penetration.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In the animal study about the effect of penetration, percutaneous penetration of PKH67-labeled hUCMSC-Exos was studied under microneedles, 1565 nm nonablative fractional laser (NAFL), and a plasma named Peninsula Blue Aurora Shumin Master (PBASM) treatments, observed by confocal laser scanning microscopy. In the clinical application study, 60 patients with melasma treated in our department were divided into four groups. NAFL combined with normal saline treatment was used for Group A. Microneedles, NAFL, and PBASM combined with hUCMSC-Exos treatments were used for Groups B, C, and D, respectively. Each patient received four treatments at 1-month intervals. Assessments were done using the degree of pain posttreatment, melasma area and severity score, improvement rate, physician global assessment score, satisfaction, and complications.

RESULTS

In the animal study about the effect of penetration, hUCMSC-Exos can penetrate the deep dermis under microneedles, NAFL, and PBASM treatments. In the clinical application study, compared with Group A, Groups B, C, and D showed significantly improved therapeutic effect and patient satisfaction (p < 0.05), and there was no significant difference among Groups B, C, and D.(p > 0.05). Patients in Group B reported higher pain levels than those in the other three groups (p < 0.05); the treatment experience of patients in Group D was better.

CONCLUSION

hUCMSC-Exos can improve the symptoms of melasma safely and effectively. Compared with microneedles, NAFL and PBASM can also achieve a good effect toward promoting penetration. These findings are worthy of exploration and clinical application.

The pigmentation phenotype of melanocytes affects their response to nitric oxide in vitro

Introduction

It has been shown that nitric oxide (NO) can modulate the immune properties of epidermal melanocytes, and that overexpression of NO in the skin may contribute to inflammation-related pigmentary disorders. Little is known about whether constitutive cell pigmentation affects the sensitivity of melanocytes to NO.

Aim

To compare the effect of NO on melanin synthesis and the expression of key melanogenesis-related genes in normal human melanocytes of various degrees of constitutive pigmentation.

Material and methods

Human epidermal melanocytes derived from lightly and darkly pigmented skin (HEMn-LP and HEMn-DP, respectively) were cultured with or without a NO donor (SPER/NO). Then the total melanin content, the pheomelanin content, the activity and concentration of tyrosinase, and the expressions of TYR and DCT were assessed.

Results

NO released from SPER/NO did not alter the total amount of melanin produced by cultured cells but increased the proportion of pheomelanin, especially in HEMn-DP. Transcriptional activity of the melanogenesis-related genes, in particular DCT, was downregulated in HEMn-DP and upregulated in HEMn-LP cultured with SPER/NO.

Conclusions

NO can promote pheomelanogenesis in human epidermal melanocytes, and the cell response in this respect is associated with the pigmentation phenotype. During exposure to NO, melanocytes from dark skin produce much more pheomelanin than lightly pigmented cells. NO-induced overproduction of pheomelanin in the skin could be one of the factors responsible for the greater propensity to develop severe inflammatory dermatoses in dark-skinned individuals, or even melanoma de novo formation based on local chronic inflammation.

Response of gut microbiota and ileal transcriptome to inulin intervention in HFD induced obese mice

Inulin, as a dietary fiber, exerted prominent anti-obesity effects by modulating gut microbiota. However, the possible relationship and interplay of gut microbiome and function of distal intestine is still unclear now. This study aimed to investigate the possible targets of microbes and the related intestinal genes mediated by inulin. C57 BL/6 male mice were randomly allocated to chow diet (Chow) group, high-fat diet (HFD) group, and HFD supplemented with 3 % inulin (Inulin) group. Compared with HFD treatment, inulin supplementation significantly decreased the body weight, fat deposition, and fasting blood glucose level. In addition, mice treated with inulin had a remarkable alteration in the structure of cecal microbiota and transcriptomic profiling of ileum. In particular, inulin supplementation significantly reversed the HFD induced expression of Bacteroides, Allobaculum and nonrank_f_Bacteroidates_S24-7_group, and reversed the expression of genes belonging to phospholipase A2 (PLA2) family and cytochrome P450 (CYP450) family. In summary, inulin might alleviate HFD-induced fat deposition and metabolic disorders via regulating lipid metabolism of ileum, while the interaction between the sPLA2s and gut microbes might play important roles in the process.

NRF2 in the Epidermal Pigmentary System

Melanogenesis is a major part of the environmental responses and tissue development of the integumentary system. The balance between reduction and oxidation (redox) governs pigmentary responses, for which coordination among epidermal resident cells is indispensable. Here, we review the current understanding of melanocyte biology with a particular focus on the "master regulator" of oxidative stress responses (i.e., the Kelch-like erythroid cell-derived protein with cap'n'collar homology-associated protein 1-nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 system) and the autoimmune pigment disorder vitiligo. Our investigation revealed that the former is essential in pigmentogenesis, whereas the latter results from unbalanced redox homeostasis and/or defective intercellular communication in the interfollicular epidermis (IFE). Finally, we propose a model in which keratinocytes provide a "niche" for differentiated melanocytes and may "imprint" IFE pigmentation.

Mechanism of Action of Topical Tranexamic Acid in the Treatment of Melasma and Sun-Induced Skin Hyperpigmentation

Tranexamic acid (TXA) has anti-plasmin activity and has been shown when administered orally to be effective against melasma, for which it is considered first-line pharmacotherapy. Several studies have shown that topically applied TXA is also effective against melasma and skin hyperpigmentation caused by sunburn and inflammation. The TXA concentration in the epidermis and dermis/vasculature has been estimated from its distribution in the skin after closed application, and topically applied TXA has thus been shown to act on neutrophils and mast cells in the dermis and on the vascular system. It is unlikely that topically applied TXA acts on dermal neutrophils or mast cells or on the vascular system to form thrombi. As discussed in the present review, studies on the effects of topical TXA on the hyperpigmentation process indicate that the resulting skin-lightening mechanism involves the suppression of cytokine/chemical mediator production, which stimulates melanin production via the keratinocyte-derived urokinase-type plasminogen activator and plasminogen derived from dermal vascular in the basal layer of the epidermis, thereby suppressing the production of excessive melanin to prevent hyperpigmentation.

Recognition of Melanocytes in Immuno-Neuroendocrinology and Circadian Rhythms: Beyond the Conventional Melanin Synthesis

Melanocytes produce melanin to protect the skin from UV-B radiation. Notwithstanding, the spectrum of their functions extends far beyond their well-known role as melanin production factories. Melanocytes have been considered as sensory and computational cells. The neurotransmitters, neuropeptides, and other hormones produced by melanocytes make them part of the skin’s well-orchestrated and complex neuroendocrine network, counteracting environmental stressors. Melanocytes can also actively mediate the epidermal immune response. Melanocytes are equipped with ectopic sensory systems similar to the eye and nose and can sense light and odor. The ubiquitous inner circadian rhythm controls the body’s basic physiological processes. Light not only affects skin photoaging, but also regulates inner circadian rhythms and communicates with the local neuroendocrine system. Do melanocytes “see” light and play a unique role in photoentrainment of the local circadian clock system? Why, then, are melanocytes responsible for so many mysterious functions? Do these complex functional devices work to maintain homeostasis locally and throughout the body? In addition, melanocytes have also been shown to be localized in internal sites such as the inner ear, brain, and heart, locations not stimulated by sunlight. Thus, what can the observation of extracutaneous melanocytes tell us about the “secret identity” of melanocytes? While the answers to some of these intriguing questions remain to be discovered, here we summarize and weave a thread around available data to explore the established and potential roles of melanocytes in the biological communication of skin and systemic homeostasis, and elaborate on important open issues and propose ways forward.

Role of nitric oxide in regulating epidermal permeability barrier function

Nitric oxide (NO), a free radical molecule synthesized by nitric oxide synthases (NOS), regulates multiple cellular functions in a variety of cell types. These NOS, including endothelial NOS (eNOS), inducible NOS (iNOS) and neural NOS (nNOS), are expressed in keratinocytes. Expression levels of both iNOS and nNOS decrease with ageing, and insufficient NO has been linked to the development of a number of disorders such as diabetes and hypertension, and to the severity of atherosclerosis. Conversely, excessive NO levels can induce cellular oxidative stress, but physiological levels of NO are required to maintain the normal functioning of cells, including keratinocytes. NO also regulates cutaneous functions, including epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis and wound healing, through its stimulation of keratinocyte proliferation, differentiation and lipid metabolism. Topical applications of a diverse group of agents which generate nitric oxide (called NO donors) such as S-nitroso-N-acetyl-D,L-penicillamine (SNAP) can delay permeability barrier recovery in barrier-disrupted skin, but iNOS is still required for epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis. This review summarizes the regulatory role that NO plays in epidermal permeability barrier functions and the underlying mechanisms involved.

Taxifolin as a Promising Ingredient of Cosmetics for Adult Skin

Active substances, effective in the reduction in or delay of skin changes caused by aging occurring in natural compounds, are desirable. Taxifolin (TXF), a flavonoid of strong antioxidant activity found in the plant Stizolophus balsamita (S. balsamita), has been tested for its biological effects on adult human skin. The aim of the study was to investigate the effects of two creams: 3% S. balsamita extract and 3% TXF on the function of adult skin. In total, 97 Caucasian women with clinical signs of skin aging were investigated. The biophysical and biomechanical skin parameters were measured before and after applying the creams, using Colorimeter CL400, Mexameter MX16, Skin-pH-Meter PH900, Skin-Thermometer ST 500, Glossymeter GL200, and Cutiscan SC100. Patch tests were performed with the investigated products to assess their potential irritant properties. The percutaneous penetration of creams was examined with the use of electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) and confocal Raman spectroscopy. The 3% S. balsamita extract cream reduced hyperpigmentation, erythema, and elevated pH. All the tested preparations were proven to be nonirritant. A higher penetration rate was revealed for the 3% TXF cream than for the 3% S. balsamita extract cream. A total of 3% TXF cream improved skin viscoelasticity. The obtained results suggested that S. balsamita extract and TXF may be considered as ingredients of skincare products for adults.

Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products

Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.

Mucosal Melanoma: Pathological Evolution, Pathway Dependency and Targeted Therapy

Mucosal melanoma (MM) is a rare melanoma subtype that originates from melanocytes within sun-protected mucous membranes. Compared with cutaneous melanoma (CM), MM has worse prognosis and lacks effective treatment options. Moreover, the endogenous or exogenous risk factors that influence mucosal melanocyte transformation, as well as the identity of MM precursor lesions, are ambiguous. Consequently, there remains a lack of molecular markers that can be used for early diagnosis, and therefore better management, of MM. In this review, we first summarize the main functions of mucosal melanocytes. Then, using oral mucosal melanoma (OMM) as a model, we discuss the distinct pathologic stages from benign mucosal melanocytes to metastatic MM, mapping the possible evolutionary trajectories that correspond to MM initiation and progression. We highlight key areas of ambiguity during the genetic evolution of MM from its benign lesions, and the resolution of which could aid in the discovery of new biomarkers for MM detection and diagnosis. We outline the key pathways that are altered in MM, including the MAPK pathway, the PI3K/AKT pathway, cell cycle regulation, telomere maintenance, and the RNA maturation process, and discuss targeted therapy strategies for MM currently in use or under investigation.

Identification of OCA2 as a novel locus for the co-morbidity of asthma-plus-eczema

BACKGROUND

Numerous genes have been associated with the three most common allergic diseases (asthma, allergic rhinitis or eczema) but these genes explain only a part of the heritability. In the vast majority of genetic studies, complex phenotypes such as co-morbidity of two of these diseases, have not been considered. This may partly explain missing heritability.

OBJECTIVE

To identify genetic variants specifically associated with the co-morbidity of asthma-plus-eczema.

METHODS

We first conducted a meta-analysis of four GWAS (Genome-Wide Association Study) of the combined asthma-plus-eczema phenotype (total of 8807 European-ancestry subjects of whom 1208 subjects had both asthma and eczema). To assess whether the association with SNP(s) was specific to the co-morbidity, we also conducted a meta-analysis of homogeneity test of association according to disease status ("asthma-plus-eczema" vs. the presence of only one disease "asthma only or eczema only"). We then used a joint test by combining the two test statistics from the co-morbidity-SNP association and the phenotypic heterogeneity of SNP effect meta-analyses.

RESULTS

Seven SNPs were detected for specific association to the asthma-plus-eczema co-morbidity, two with significant and five with suggestive evidence using the joint test after correction for multiple testing. The two significant SNPs are located in the OCA2 gene (Oculocutaneous Albinism II), a new locus never detected for significant evidence of association with any allergic disease. This gene is a promising candidate gene, because of its link to skin and lung diseases, and to epithelial barrier and immune mechanisms.

CONCLUSION

Our study underlines the importance of studying sub-phenotypes as co-morbidities to detect new susceptibility genes.

Participation of keratinocyte- and fibroblast-derived factors in melanocyte homeostasis, the response to UV, and pigmentary disorders

Human epidermal melanocytes play a central role in sensing the environment and protecting the skin from the drastic effects of solar ultraviolet radiation and other environmental toxins or inflammatory agents. Melanocytes survive in the epidermis for decades, which subjects them to chronic environmental insults. Melanocytes have a poor self-renewal capacity; therefore, it is critical to ensure their survival with genomic stability. The function and survival of melanocytes is regulated by an elaborate network of paracrine factors synthesized mainly by epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. A symbiotic relationship exists between epidermal melanocytes and keratinocytes on the one hand, and between melanocytes and dermal fibroblasts on the other hand. Melanocytes protect epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts from the damaging effects of solar radiation, and the latter cells synthesize biochemical mediators that maintain the homeostasis, and regulate the stress response of melanocytes. Disruption of the paracrine network results in pigmentary disorders, due to abnormal regulation of melanin synthesis, and compromise of melanocyte survival or genomic stability. This review provides an update of the current knowledge of keratinocyte- and fibroblast-derived paracrine factors and their contribution to melanocyte physiology, and how their abnormal production is involved in the pathogenesis of common pigmentary disorders.

Tape stripping and lipidomics reveal skin surface lipid abnormity in female melasma

The skin barrier of melasma is involved in the pathogenesis of melasma. Previous studies have shown that there are differences in the expression of epidermal lipid genes in melasma, but little is known about the epidermis lipid composition of melasma. Compared with the non-lesional skin, the content of total lipids, phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylserine, and ceramide (Cer) increased significantly in the lesional skin. Multivariate data analysis indicated that 40 individual Cer lipid species were responsible for the discrimination. In terms of acyl chain length in Cer, the expressions of very long chain (VLC) (C20-C26) and ultra-long chain (ULC) (>C26) increased significantly in the lesional skin. However, Cer[AH] had negative correlations with the activation of melanocytes in the lesional skin. Some lipid species had lower expression in lesional skin with high activation of melanocytes, as well as the high darkness. The epidermal thickness of lesional skin was higher compared with the non-lesional skin. These results suggest that Cer increased significantly in the lesional skin of melasma, possibly as a compensatory mechanism to maintain skin barrier function. Between different groups of darkness and activation of melanocytes, the change of ceramides might have correlation with the pigmentation progress of melasma.

African black soap: Physiochemical, phytochemical properties, and uses

The African black soap is popular for its cleansing and medicinal properties particularly amongst those of African descent. The "traditional" African black soap" refers to soaps made from the ash-derived alkali from agricultural waste and oil extracted from vegetable matter without the addition of cosmetic enhancing products. Production of black soap has been traced to west Africa especially Nigeria and Ghana. The raw materials are readily available in the region making the soap available and affordable for most in sub-Saharan Africa. It has been described as gentle, super fatted and hypoallergenic. It is advertised as antimicrobial, anti-acne, exfoliating, skin toning, scar fading, and having medicinal properties. It is popular for its management of skin diseases, although some of the claims remain anecdotal. Generations of Africans abroad continue to use modified versions of the soap and claim they are satisfied with the results obtained. However, in the management of patients with skin disorders, especially eczema, in sub-Saharan Africa, prescribing an ideal skin cleanser can be challenging as many cannot afford the imported nonsoap cleansers with skin friendly pH. Studies have shown that the traditional black soap does have antimicrobial properties against Staphylococcal and some Streptococcal organisms, which are commonly seen in the tropical climate. The recent ban of some antiseptics in popular antibacterial soaps in this environment, emphasizes the need for production of safer antimicrobials. The antimicrobial, physiochemical, and phytochemical properties of the African black soap suggest it may have beneficial effects on the overall skin health.

Both Prevalence and Severity of Pruritus are Associated with Age in Chinese Patients with Skin Diseases

BACKGROUND

Although the characteristics of pruritus in some skin diseases are documented, characteristics of pruritus related to gender-, age-, and skin disorder have not yet been well defined.

OBJECTIVE

To characterize dermatosis-associated pruritus in Chinese patients.

METHODS

A cross-sectional study was carried out in a single center. The intensity of pruritus was evaluated using a 0-10 visual analog scale (VAS). Skin disorders were diagnosed by dermatologists. The prevalence and intensity of pruritus were compared among skin disorders, and between males and females.

RESULTS

Valid questionnaires were obtained from 1,246 female and 864 male patients. Patients with acne, eczematous dermatitis, and urticaria accounted for 18%, 17%, and 14%, respectively. Both the prevalence and severity of pruritus varied greatly with skin disorders (p<0.0001). Patients with either urticaria or eczematous dermatitis displayed a higher prevalence of pruritus (92% and 82%, respectively), while subjects with urticaria exhibited the highest VAS in comparison to those with other skin disorders (p<0.05 to p<0.001 vs the others). Moreover, both the prevalence and severity of pruritus were positively associated with age in both males and females (p<0.0001). Furthermore, 60 out of 77 patients (78%) with topical glucocorticoid-induced dermatitis experienced pruritus, with a VAS of 2.03±0.21. Finally, a lower VAS was found in subjects with oily skin than those with either dry or normal skin.

CONCLUSION

The prevalence and severity of pruritus vary with skin disorders, skin type, age, and gender in Chinese patients.

Adaptation and co-adaptation of skin pigmentation and vitamin D genes in native Americans

We carried out an exhaustive review regarding human skin color variation and how much it may be related to vitamin D metabolism and other photosensitive molecules. We discuss evolutionary contexts that modulate this variability and hypotheses postulated to explain them; for example, a small amount of melanin in the skin facilitates vitamin D production, making it advantageous to have fair skin in an environment with little radiation incidence. In contrast, more melanin protects folate from degradation in an environment with a high incidence of radiation. Some Native American populations have a skin color at odds with what would be expected for the amount of radiation in the environment in which they live, a finding challenging the so-called "vitamin D-folate hypothesis." Since food is also a source of vitamin D, dietary habits should also be considered. Here we argue that a gene network approach provides tools to explain this phenomenon since it indicates potential alleles co-evolving in a compensatory way. We identified alleles of the vitamin D metabolism and pigmentation pathways segregated together, but in different proportions, in agriculturalists and hunter-gatherers. Finally, we highlight how an evolutionary approach can be useful to understand current topics of medical interest.

Micropore closure time is longer following microneedle application to skin of color

Microneedles (MNs) allow transdermal delivery of skin-impermeable drugs by creating transient epidermal micropores, and micropore lifetime directly affects drug diffusion timeframes. Healthy subjects (n = 111) completed the study, self-identifying as Asian (n = 32), Bi-/multi-racial (n = 10), Black (n = 22), White (n = 23), Latino (n = 23), and Native American/Hawaiian (n = 1). L* was measured with tristimulus colorimetry to objectively describe skin lightness/darkness. MNs were applied to the upper arm; impedance and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured at baseline and post-MN to confirm micropore formation. Impedance was repeated for 4 days to determine micropore lifetime. Post-MN changes in TEWL and impedance were significant in all groups (p < 0.05), confirming micropore formation regardless of skin type. Micropore lifetime was significantly longer in Blacks (66.5 ± 19.5 h) versus Asians (44.1 ± 14.0 h), Bi-/multi-racial (48.0 ± 16.0 h), and Whites (50.2 ± 2.6 h). Latinos (61.1 ± 16.1 h) had significantly longer micropore closure time versus Asians (44.1 ± 14.0 h). When categorizing data according to L*, micropore lifetime was significantly longer in darker skin. We report for the first time that micropore lifetime differences are present in human subjects of different ethnic/racial backgrounds, with longer micropore lifetime in skin of color. These results also suggest that objectively measured skin color is a better predictor of micropore lifetime than self-identified race/ethnicity.

By protecting against cutaneous inflammation, epidermal pigmentation provided an additional advantage for ancestral humans

Pigmentation evolved in ancestral humans to protect against toxic, ultraviolet B irradiation, but the question remains: "what is being protected?" Because humans with dark pigmentation display a suite of superior epidermal functions in comparison with their more lightly pigmented counterparts, we hypothesized and provided evidence that dark pigmentation evolved in Africa to support cutaneous function. Because our prior clinical studies also showed that a restoration of a competent barrier dampens cutaneous inflammation, we hypothesized that resistance to inflammation could have provided pigmented hominins with yet another, important evolutionary benefit. We addressed this issue here in two closely related strains of hairless mice, endowed with either moderate (Skh2/J) or absent (Skh1) pigmentation. In these models, we showed that (a) pigmented mice display a markedly reduced propensity to develop inflammation after challenges with either a topical irritant or allergen in comparison with their nonpigmented counterparts; (b) visible and histologic evidence of inflammation was paralleled by reduced levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines (i.e., IL-1α and INFα); (c) because depigmentation of Skh2/J mouse skin enhanced both visible inflammation and pro-inflammatory cytokine levels after comparable pro-inflammatory challenges, the reduced propensity to develop inflammation was directly linked to the presence of pigmentation; and (d) furthermore, in accordance with our prior work showing that pigment production endows benefits by reducing the surface pH of skin, acidification of albino (Skh1) mouse skin also protected against inflammation, and equalized cytokine levels to those found in pigmented skin. In summary, pigmentation yields a reduced propensity to develop inflammation, consistent with our hypothesis that dark pigmentation evolved in ancestral humans to provide a suite of barrier-linked benefits that now include resistance to inflammation.

Reconstructed Skin Models Revealed Unexpected Differences in Epidermal African and Caucasian Skin

Clinical observations of both normal and pathological skin have shown that there is a heterogeneity based on the skin origin type. Beside external factors, intrinsic differences in skin cells could be a central element to determine skin types. This study aimed to understand the in vitro behaviour of epidermal cells of African and Caucasian skin types in the context of 3D reconstructed skin. Full-thickness skin models were constructed with site matched human keratinocytes and papillary fibroblasts to investigate potential skin type related differences. We report that reconstructed skin epidermis exhibited remarkable differences regarding stratification and differentiation according to skin types, as demonstrated by histological appearance, gene expression analysed by DNA microarray and quantitative proteomic analysis. Signalling pathways and processes related to terminal differentiation and lipid/ceramide metabolism were up-regulated in epidermis constructed with keratinocytes from Caucasian skin type when compared to that of keratinocytes from African skin type. Specifically, the expression of proteins involved in the processing of filaggrins was found different between skin models. Overall, we show unexpected differences in epidermal morphogenesis and differentiation between keratinocytes of Caucasian and African skin types in in vitro reconstructed skin containing papillary fibroblasts that could explain the differences in ethnic related skin behaviour.

Comment on: The Vitamin D⁻Folate Hypothesis as an Evolutionary Model for Skin Pigmentation: An Update and Integration of Current Ideas, Nutrients 2018, 10, 554

In response to a recent article by Jones et al. (Nutrients 10: 554⁻568, 2018) [1], we agree that three distinctive features evolved in Homo erectus prior to the emergence of modern humans.[...].

Prevalence and determinants of seborrhoeic dermatitis in a middle-aged and elderly population: the Rotterdam Study

BACKGROUND

Seborrhoeic dermatitis is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease with unclear pathophysiological mechanisms.

OBJECTIVES

To establish which lifestyle and physiological determinants are associated with seborrhoeic dermatitis.

METHODS

Seborrhoeic dermatitis was diagnosed by a trained physician during a full-body skin examination within the Rotterdam Study, a prospective population-based cohort study in middle-aged and elderly people. The current design is a comparative cross-sectional study embedded in the Rotterdam Study. Potential factors were identified from the literature and analysed in a multivariable logistic regression, including: age, sex, obesity, skin colour, stress, depression, education level, hypertension, climate, xerosis cutis, alcohol and tobacco use.

RESULTS

Of the 5498 participants, 788 participants were diagnosed with seborrhoeic dermatitis (14·3%). We found associations between seborrhoeic dermatitis and male sex [adjusted odds ratio (OR) 2·09, 95% confidence interval (CI) 1·77-2·47], darker skin (adjusted OR 0·39, 95% CI 0·22-0·69), season (summer vs. winter: adjusted OR 0·63, 95% CI 0·48-0·82) and generalized xerosis cutis (adjusted OR 1·41, 95% CI 1·11-1·80).

CONCLUSIONS

Seborrhoeic dermatitis is one of the most common inflammatory dermatoses in middle-aged and elderly individuals, especially during winter. Men, and people with a light and dry skin were most likely to have seborrhoeic dermatitis.

Stable PEG-coated silver nanoparticles - A comprehensive toxicological profile

The present study was purported to assess the toxicological profile of bare and polyethylene glycol (PEG) coated spherical silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) by means of in vitro (on human keratinocytes - HaCat cells) and in vivo non-invasive tests (after intraperitoneal - i.p. administration to mice). Bare and PEG-coated AgNPs were synthesized by applying Turkevich's method slightly modified. The physico-chemical characterization revealed the formation of stable, spherical AgNPs and PEG-AgNPs, with narrow size distributions and mean hydrodynamic sizes in the range of 19 nm and 50 nm, respectively. Toxicity data revealed a dose-dependent safe profile for low concentrations of test compounds (<10 μM) in terms of cell viability, whereas higher concentrations were associated with a high rate of cell mortality. In vivo acute/subacute toxicity data showed no denotive changes in mice health status after i.p. administration. Histological observations of internal organs and the biochemical parameters analyzed together with the other biological observations showed a low toxicity level with no major differences related to control, albeit at skin level a reduced number of mast cells was detected. All these observations provide strong support for the idea that coated silver nanoparticles could be applied as targeted nanocarriers for skin pathologies and diagnostic.

Association between Stress and the HPA Axis in the Atopic Dermatitis

The hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal (HPA) axis is one of the body’s neuroendocrine networks that responds to psychological stress (PS). In the skin, there exists a peripheral HPA axis similar to the central axis. Glucocorticoids (GCs) are key effector molecules of the HPA axis and are essential for cutaneous homeostasis. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a condition typically characterized by a chronic relapsing course that often results in PS. HPA dysfunction is present in AD patients by the decreased response of GCs elevation to stress as compared to those unaffected by AD. Nevertheless, in skin, acute PS activates several metabolic responses that are of immediate benefit to the host. During the acute phase of PS, increased endogenous GCs have been shown to provide benefit rather than by aggravating cutaneous inflammatory dermatoses. However, a chronic T helper cell type 2 (Th2) predominant cytokine profile acts as a negative feedback loop to blunt the HPA axis response in AD. In this article, we reviewed the role of CRF, pro-opiomelanocortin (POMC)-derived peptides, GCs of the HPA, and 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (11β-HSD1) in AD, with a discussion of the pathogenetic mechanisms of inflammation and skin barrier functions, including antimicrobial defense, and their association with PS.

In situ visualization of glucocerebrosidase in human skin tissue: zymography versus activity-based probe labeling

Epidermal β-glucocerebrosidase (GBA1), an acid β-glucosidase normally located in lysosomes, converts (glucosyl)ceramides into ceramides, which is crucial to generate an optimal barrier function of the outermost skin layer, the stratum corneum (SC). Here we report on two developed in situ methods to localize active GBA in human epidermis: i) an optimized zymography method that is less labor intensive and visualizes enzymatic activity with higher resolution than currently reported methods using either substrate 4-methylumbelliferyl-β-D-glucopyranoside or resorufin-β-D-glucopyranoside; and ii) a novel technique to visualize active GBA1 molecules by their specific labeling with a fluorescent activity-based probe (ABP), MDW941. The latter method pro-ved to be more robust and sensitive, provided higher resolution microscopic images, and was less prone to sample preparation effects. Moreover, in contrast to the zymography substrates that react with various β-glucosidases, MDW941 specifically labeled GBA1. We demonstrate that active GBA1 in the epidermis is primarily located in the extracellular lipid matrix at the interface of the viable epidermis and the lower layers of the SC. With ABP-labeling, we observed reduced GBA1 activity in 3D-cultured skin models when supplemented with the reversible inhibitor, isofagomine, irrespective of GBA expression. This inhibition affected the SC ceramide composition: MS analysis revealed an inhibitor-dependent increase in the glucosylceramide:ceramide ratio.

Skin Surface pH in Acne Vulgaris: Insights from an Observational Study and Review of the Literature

OBJECTIVE: Recurrent and chronic course of acne vulgaris, despite effect-proven therapies, point to an underfocused aspect in its pathogenesis and management. This study aims to assess in subjects with and without acne, the skin surface pH, a parameter that cumulatively represents functioning of various units of skin, including the barrier. METHODS: A total of 200 patients with acne and 200 age- and sex-matched controls were included. Under basal conditions, facial skin pH was derived from five sites using a skin pH-meter. The relation between skin pH and acne was evaluated according to sex. RESULTS: There were more subjects with normal skin pH in the control group compared to the case group, and the majority of acne occurrences in the case group were related to high skin pH (p=0.000). Mean pH among cases was higher than normal reference value (pH 4.5-5.5 for women, 4-5.5 for men) and that of controls p (<0.001). No significant association was observed between sex and skin pH in either cases or controls (p>0.05). CONCLUSION: Increased facial skin pH in patients with acne at basal conditions mirrors a chronic state of stratum corneum instability, which could be predisposing individuals to acne occurrence and/or recurrences. It could possibly be a common domain via which the classical pathomechanisms might be acting in acne. Integrating measures that maintain stratum corneum pH during therapy might prove worthwhile.

Topical Histamine Stimulates Repigmentation of Nonsegmental Vitiligo by a Receptor-Dependent Mechanism

BACKGROUND

Though vitiligo is a common depigmentary disorder, it still represents a substantial therapeutic challenge. Therapeutic options are limited in part due to its uncertain etiology.

OBJECTIVE

Because recent studies suggest that histamine stimulates melanogenesis in vitro, we determined here whether topical histamine stimulates repigmentation in patients with stable, nonsegmental vitiligo.

METHODS

A total of 23 otherwise normal volunteers with vitiligo, including 14 males and 9 females aged 6-59 years (mean age 29.2 ± 2.8), were enrolled in this study. 1% histamine in distilled water was applied to the lesions twice daily for 5 weeks, while comparable lesions, treated with distilled water alone, served as the controls. The melanin index was measured on the uninvolved and lesional skin sites before and after 5 weeks of treatments using the melanin/erythema probe connected to a Courage-Khazaka MPA5 (Cologne, Germany). Changes in epidermal permeability barrier were also assessed at the same time point. To determine whether histamine-induced repigmentation is receptor-dependent, both ears of C57BL/6J mice were treated topically with 5% cimetidine, a histamine type 2 receptor (H2r) antagonist, twice daily for 10 days. One hour after each cimetidine application, the right ear was treated topically with 10% histamine, while vehicle alone was applied to the left ear. Changes in melanin index were measured 24 h after the last application of histamine and vehicle as described in the human study.

RESULTS

In patients with vitiligo treated with vehicle alone for 5 weeks, the melanin index remained unchanged, while topical histamine treatment increased the melanin index by 38% (p < 0.001 vs. both vehicle and pretreatment), which was paralleled by a >60% reduction in lesion surface area. Moreover, topical histamine accelerated permeability barrier recovery. No adverse events were observed following histamine applications. In mice, topical histamine significantly increased the melanin index, while topical co-applications of the H2r antagonist (cimetidine) prevented the expected histamine-induced increase in melanin index.

CONCLUSIONS

These studies indicate that topical histamine or an H2r agonist could be useful for treating nonsegmental vitiligo, but further clinical studies in large populations will be required to validate the efficacy and safety of this approach.

Skin Exposure to Ultraviolet B Rapidly Activates Systemic Neuroendocrine and Immunosuppressive Responses

The back skin of C57BL/6 mice was exposed to a single 400 mJ cm^-2 dose of ultraviolet B (UVB), and parameters of hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis in relation to immune activity were tested after 30-90 min following irradiation. Levels of brain and/or plasma corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH), β-endorphin, ACTH and corticosterone (CORT) were enhanced by UVB. Hypophysectomy had no effect on UVB-induced increases of CORT. Mitogen-induced IFNγ production by splenocytes from UVB-treated mice was inhibited at 30, 90 min and after 24 h. UVB also led to inhibition of IL-10 production indicating an immunosuppressive effect on both Th1 and Th2 cytokines. Conditioned media from splenocytes isolated from UVB-treated animals had no effect on IFNγ production in cultured normal splenocytes; however, IFNγ increased with conditioned media from sham-irradiated animals. Sera from UVB-treated mice suppressed T-cell mitogen-induced IFNγ production as compared to sera from sham-treated mice. IFNγ production was inhibited in splenocytes isolated from UVB-treated animals with intact pituitary, while stimulated in splenocytes from UVB-treated hypophysectomized mice. Thus, cutaneous exposure to UVB rapidly stimulates systemic CRH, ACTH, β-endorphin and CORT production accompanied by rapid immunosuppressive effects in splenocytes that appear to be independent of the HPA axis.

Evaluation of fibrin-based dermal-epidermal organotypic cultures for in vitro skin corrosion and irritation testing of chemicals according to OECD TG 431 and 439

Reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) models have been used for in vitro testing of the potential harmful effects of exposure to chemical compounds on health. In the past, skin irritation and corrosion were evaluated in animal models; however, in recent years, due to the bioethics implications of the method and, to minimize the use of experimental animals, alternative procedures have been proposed. The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) in its test guidelines (TG) 431 and 439 indicates the requirements for validating new methods for the evaluation of skin corrosion and irritation, respectively. Here, we present an in-house human dermal-epidermal model, useful for the performance of these tests. Using the methods described in this work, it was possible to obtain human fibrin-based dermal-epidermal organotypic skin cultures (ORGs) displaying similar histological characteristics to native skin and expressing specific differentiation epithelial proteins. The end points to classify a substance as irritant or corrosive were cell viability evaluated by MTT assay, and cytokine release measured by BD CBA for human inflammatory cytokines. According to the MTT test, the ORGs correctly classified irritating and corrosive substances. Moreover, the cytokine release assay was difficult to interpret in the context of testing chemical hazard classification. Further experiments are needed to validate this new model for the evaluation of surfactants because the fibrin matrix was affected in the presence of these substances.

Basis for the gain and subsequent dilution of epidermal pigmentation during human evolution: The barrier and metabolic conservation hypotheses revisited

The evolution of human skin pigmentation must address both the initial evolution of intense epidermal pigmentation in hominins, and its subsequent dilution in modern humans. While many authorities believe that epidermal pigmentation evolved to protect against either ultraviolet B (UV-B) irradiation-induced mutagenesis or folic acid photolysis, we hypothesize that pigmentation augmented the epidermal barriers by shifting the UV-B dose-response curve from toxic to beneficial. Whereas erythemogenic UV-B doses produce apoptosis and cell death, suberythemogenic doses benefit permeability and antimicrobial function. Heavily melanized melanocytes acidify the outer epidermis and emit paracrine signals that augment barrier competence. Modern humans, residing in the cooler, wetter climes of south-central Europe and Asia, initially retained substantial pigmentation. While their outdoor lifestyles still permitted sufficient cutaneous vitamin D3 (VD3) synthesis, their marginal nutritional status, coupled with cold-induced caloric needs, selected for moderate pigment reductions that diverted limited nutritional resources towards more urgent priorities (=metabolic conservation). The further pigment-dilution that evolved as humans reached north-central Europe (i.e., northern France, Germany), likely facilitated cutaneous VD3 synthesis, while also supporting ongoing, nutritional requirements. But at still higher European latitudes where little UV-B breaches the atmosphere (i.e., present-day UK, Scandinavia, Baltic States), pigment dilution alone could not suffice. There, other nonpigment-related mutations evolved to facilitate VD3 production; for example, in the epidermal protein, filaggrin, resulting in reduced levels of its distal metabolite, trans-urocanic acid, a potent UV-B chromophore. Thus, changes in human pigmentation reflect a complex interplay between latitude, climate, diet, lifestyle, and shifting metabolic priorities.

The role of group IIF-secreted phospholipase A2 in epidermal homeostasis and hyperplasia

Yamamoto et al. report that PLA2G2F represents a previously unrecognized regulator of skin pathophysiology, and point to this enzyme as a novel drug target for epidermal-hyperplasic diseases.

Epidermal lipids are important for skin homeostasis. However, the entire picture of the roles of lipids, particularly nonceramide lipid species, in epidermal biology still remains obscure. Here, we report that PLA2G2F, a functionally orphan-secreted phospholipase A₂ expressed in the suprabasal epidermis, regulates skin homeostasis and hyperplasic disorders. Pla2g2f^−/− mice had a fragile stratum corneum and were strikingly protected from psoriasis, contact dermatitis, and skin cancer. Conversely, Pla2g2f-overexpressing transgenic mice displayed psoriasis-like epidermal hyperplasia. Primary keratinocytes from Pla2g2f^−/− mice showed defective differentiation and activation. PLA2G2F was induced by calcium or IL-22 in keratinocytes and preferentially hydrolyzed ethanolamine plasmalogen-bearing docosahexaenoic acid secreted from keratinocytes to give rise to unique bioactive lipids (i.e., protectin D1 and 9S-hydroxyoctadecadienoic acid) that were distinct from canonical arachidonate metabolites (prostaglandins and leukotrienes). Ethanolamine lysoplasmalogen, a PLA2G2F-derived marker product, rescued defective activation of Pla2g2f^−/− keratinocytes both in vitro and in vivo. Our results highlight PLA2G2F as a previously unrecognized regulator of skin pathophysiology and point to this enzyme as a novel drug target for epidermal-hyperplasic diseases.

A new era of secreted phospholipase A₂

Among more than 30 members of the phospholipase A2 (PLA2) superfamily, secreted PLA2 (sPLA2) enzymes represent the largest family, being Ca(2+)-dependent low-molecular-weight enzymes with a His-Asp catalytic dyad. Individual sPLA2s exhibit unique tissue and cellular distributions and enzymatic properties, suggesting their distinct biological roles. Recent studies using transgenic and knockout mice for nearly a full set of sPLA2 subtypes, in combination with sophisticated lipidomics as well as biochemical and cell biological studies, have revealed distinct contributions of individual sPLA2s to various pathophysiological events, including production of pro- and anti-inflammatory lipid mediators, regulation of membrane remodeling, degradation of foreign phospholipids in microbes or food, or modification of extracellular noncellular lipid components. In this review, we highlight the current understanding of the in vivo functions of sPLA2s and the underlying lipid pathways as revealed by a series of studies over the last decade.

Facial skin pigmentation is not related to stratum corneum cohesion, basal transepidermal water loss, barrier integrity and barrier repair

OBJECTIVE

Hypotheses have been developed for the evolutionary selection of skin pigmentation one of which relates to improved skin barrier function. The aim of this study was to compare facial skin condition on photoexposed (cheek) and photoprotected (post-auricular) sites of naturally pigmented subjects of different ethnicities (Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II/III and V/VI) and Albino African subjects to understand better the relationship between facial stratum corneum (SC) barrier function, skin surface pH and skin pigmentation.

METHODS

Expert grading of skin conditions, capacitance, skin surface pH and skin barrier function measurements were performed. For the latter, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements before (basal TEWL), after 3, 6 and 9 consecutive tape strippings (SC integrity) and 3.5 and 24 h post tape stripping (barrier recovery) were taken. Amounts of SC protein removed during stripping were estimated using infrared densitometry (SC cohesion).

RESULTS

Firstly, correlation analysis of the biometric data of the Black African and Caucasian subjects showed there to be no relationship between skin surface pH and ITA° values nor pH and ITA° with basal TEWL. Neither skin surface pH nor ITA° correlated with SC integrity and barrier recovery measurements, but skin surface pH correlated with SC cohesion. ITA° values were correlated with skin hydration. Secondly, on comparing the three ethnic groups, severe skin photodamage was observed in the Albino African subjects and their SC was thicker. Whereas their basal TEWL was elevated, superior values for SC integrity and barrier recovery were measured. No differences in basal TEWL, SC integrity and barrier recovery were found between the other two subject groups. Equally, SC cohesion and skin surface pH values were similar among the three groups.

CONCLUSION

There was no relationship between ITA° values and basal TEWL, SC integrity, SC cohesion and barrier recovery, but ITA° was correlated with skin hydration. Skin surface pH, irrespective of ITA° values, correlated with SC cohesion, indicating a greater intracorneal cohesion at lower pH values. Thus, pigmentation has no effect on SC barrier properties but was related to skin hydration. On comparing the three ethnic groups, Albino African SC was found to be superior to the Caucasian and Black African subjects in terms of SC integrity and barrier recovery but not basal TEWL. The Albino African subjects also have a thicker SC which contributes to their better SC integrity. No differences in skin barrier functionality or skin surface pH were observed for the other two groups. Skin hydration was, however, greatest in the Black African subjects. Our data support the evolutionary hypothesis that pigmentation protects the skin from UV irradiation and thereby the skin barrier but not the skin pigmentation-/pH-driven adaptive skin barrier hypothesis.