Ring buckling and C=N isomerization pathways for efficient photoprotection in two nature-inspired UVA sunscreens revealed through ultrafast dynamics and high-level calculations

Sunscreens provide a frontline defense for our DNA against the damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The active ingredients in topically applied sunscreens that provide this defense are UV filters, which preferentially absorb or reflect UV radiation before it penetrates the skin and interacts with photosensitive nucleic acids. However, there are concerns related to human and environmental toxicity of current UV filters, and consequently a shift toward nature-inspired, particularly microbial, UV filters. In this paper, new physical insight is provided into the fundamental mechanisms of photoprotection in two synthetic analogs of mycosporine-like amino acid-type UV filters, demonstrating new methods of protection that are distinct from those of current commercial sunscreens, extending previous work in this area. Transient absorption measurements (both transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy) are combined with steady-state studies and high-level computational results to aid our mapping of the experimentally derived lifetimes to real-time photodynamic processes. The conclusions reached here pave the way toward developing new and more efficient biomimetic DNA photoprotectant materials.

Endogenous Photosensitizers in Human Skin

Endogenous photosensitizers play a critical role in both beneficial and harmful light-induced transformations in biological systems. Understanding their mode of action is essential for advancing fields such as photomedicine, photoredox catalysis, environmental science, and the development of sun care products. This review offers a comprehensive analysis of endogenous photosensitizers in human skin, investigating the connections between their electronic excitation and the subsequent activation or damage of organic biomolecules. We gather the physicochemical and photochemical properties of key endogenous photosensitizers and examine the relationships between their chemical reactivity, location within the skin, and the primary biochemical events following solar radiation exposure, along with their influence on skin physiology and pathology. An important take-home message of this review is that photosensitization allows visible light and UV-A radiation to have large effects on skin. The analysis presented here unveils potential causes for the continuous increase in global skin cancer cases and emphasizes the limitations of current sun protection approaches.

Preparation of enzymolysis porous corn starch composite microcapsules embedding organic sunscreen agents and its UV protection performance and stability

In this paper, a natural composite wall material sunscreen microcapsule was prepared, which significantly improved the SPF value and photostability of the embedded sunscreen agents. Using modified porous corn starch and whey protein as wall materials, the sunscreen agents 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoic acid hexyl ester and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate were embedded by adsorption, emulsion, encapsulation and solidification. The embedding rate of the obtained sunscreen microcapsules was 32.71 % and the average size was 7.98 μm; the enzymatic hydrolyzed starch formed a porous structure, its X-ray diffraction pattern did not change significantly, and the specific volume and oil absorption rate increased by 39.89 % and 68.32 %, respectively, compared with those before enzymatic hydrolyzed; The porous surface of the starch after embedding the sunscreen was covered and sealed with whey protein. 120 h sunscreen penetration rate was lower than 12.48 %; Compared with the lotion containing the same amount of sunscreen but not encapsulated, the SPF value of the lotion containing sunscreen microcapsules increased by 62.24 %, and the photostability of sunscreen microcapsules increased by 66.28 % within 8 h under the irradiation intensity of 25 w/m². The wall material and the preparation method are natural and environmentally friendly, and have a good application prospect in low-leakage drug delivery system.

Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties

Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FV-EE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7-14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g-1 dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4-13.7 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 11.2-14.0 g GAE 100 g-1 dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods; the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF.

A new visible light absorbing organic filter offers superior protection against pigmentation by wavelengths at the UVR-visible boundary region

Skin pigmentation by solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR; ~295-400 nm) is well established. More recently, visible light (VL; 400-740 nm) has been shown to induce rapid pigmentation. Such pigmentation is thought to be caused by oxidative stress, which has associations with skin cancer and photoageing. However, the UVR-VL boundary region has been less well studied. The lower back of healthy Fitzpatrick skin type II-IV individuals was irradiated with increasing doses of narrow-band 385 nm and 405 nm radiation. Pigmentation change was measured immediately, 6 h and 24 h post-irradiation using two reflectance spectroscopy devices and visual grading. Pigmentation was dose-dependently increased in all skin types and time points for both spectra. Two sunscreens, both labelled SPF 15 and UVA protective in the EU and USA (but with different Boots star rating in the UK, 2* vs 5*) were compared. Their formulations were the same apart from the addition of a new organic filter bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine (BDBP) that absorbs between 350 and 425 nm. The product that lacked BDBP provided minimal protection against pigmentation, but its addition provided almost complete protection. This demonstrates the needs to improve photoprotection at the UVR-visible border and for sunscreens to act as neutral density filters.

Quality by design enabled the development of stable and effective oil-in-water emulsions at compounding pharmacy: the case of a sunscreen formulation

It is widely accepted that the use of topical sunscreens has medical importance with potential to prevent skin damage by protecting from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) effects. Pharmaceutical emulsions require an optimal qualitative and quantitative combination of emollients, emulsifiers and others compounds such as softening agents and, for sunscreens, a combination of chemical and physical UV filters. Herein, we applied the quality by design (QbD) concept to achieve stable and effective compounded sunscreen emulsions. By using the statistical tool of design of experiments, it was possible to identify the influence of emulsifier type (with low and high Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) and concentrations of emollient and softening agent on the achievement of formulations with suitable organoleptic and physicochemical features. Compounded emulsions with pleasant macroscopic aspects were obtained. Three formulations with physicochemical properties in targeted ranges were selected, namely pH ∼6.0, conductivity > 0.0 µS/cm², spreadability factor ∼1-1.5 g/mm², viscosity ∼12000 mPa.s and sunscreen protection factor ∼30. Freeze-thaw cycle and accelerated stability study under different storage conditions allowed selecting a stable emulsion that ensured photoprotection in biological assays. The QbD approach was essential to select the best, low-cost compounded sunscreen emulsion, with targeted physicochemical parameters.

Evaluation of the acceptance and efficacy of a bespoke sun protection package for persons with oculocutaneous albinism living in Malawi

INTRODUCTION

Skin cancer is the main cause of death in persons with albinism (PWA) in Africa. Education would minimize sun damage.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the efficacy and acceptance of a photoprotection educative and sunscreen (Umozi Max) package designed for PWA in reducing sunburns and skin cancer.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

A multicenter, noncontrolled, before-and-after, interventional study was conducted in PWA > 12 years of age, from February to May, 2019, in Malawi. During the baseline and the follow-up visits (at 8 and 15 weeks), subjects received an educational program designed to PWA and use of Umozi Max. At every visit, photoprotection behavior and knowledge were checked and cutaneous lesions were recorded. Univariate and bivariate analysis were performed.

RESULTS

A total of 210 PWA were analyzed, 50% males, with a mean age of 24.5 (SD 11.29) years. The percentage of people using sun protective clothing increased from 80% to 100% and sunscreen from 81.9% to 99.5%. People avoiding the midday sun increased by 38.9% (P < 0.05). Participants that erroneously applied the sunscreen at night diminished from 40% to 4% (P < 0.001). Absent erythema on the face increased from 40% to 90% (P < 0.05). The percentage of patients with actinic keratoses (AK) on all locations significantly decreased during the study. All the participants preferred Umozi Max to previously used sunscreens. The satisfaction with the program was unanimous.

CONCLUSION

The educational program enhanced the use of all photoprotection measures, improved behaviors, and decreased the incidence of solar erythema and contributed to decreasing the incidence of new AKs.

3,4-dimethoxychalcone novel ultraviolet-A-protection factor in conventional sunscreen cream

UltravioletA (UVA) rays with an intensity of 95% can induce skin cancer due to the activation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The 3,4-dimethoxychalcone (3,4-DMC) chalcone derivative has a wide wavelength, antioxidant activity, presumed has activity as sunscreen (UVA rays). Topical delivery of water-insoluble 3,4-DMC with log P 3.84 required capable, cream formulation was chosen because it was suitable for application this chemical sunscreen. This study aims to obtain the optimal formulation of 3,4-DMC in a sunscreen cream dosage form as a UVA-protection factor (UVA-PF). This study involves experimental design. The cream 3,4-DMC was evaluated physically for 4 weeks by measuring pH, viscosity, spreadability, adhesion, centrifugation, freeze–thaw, photostability, UVA-PF used TranporeTM tape, and skin irritation test on animals. The result obtained was evaluated statistically using ANOVA (SPSS version 24). The ratio UVA/UVB value of 3,4 DMC sunscreen cream having 5 stars (*****) for all concentrations, shows the product in this study can be used as an anti-UVA agent in sunscreen cream cosmetic products. The stability of the cream has pH 4.0–4.2; spreadability 5–6 cm; viscosity 4.470–5.763; and adhesion <1 s. Freeze-thaw and centrifugation were known did not affect the stability due to the absence of separation. There was no wavelength shift in the photostability test and no skin irritation due to in vivo examination using New Zealand rabbits. The 3,4-DMC as a new agent in conventional sunscreen cream dosage form has good properties as a protection against UVA rays.

Afamelanotide for prevention of phototoxicity in erythropoietic protoporphyria

Introduction: In erythropoietic protoporphyria (EPP), an inherited disorder of heme biosynthesis, accumulation of protoporphyrin IX results in acute phototoxicity. EPP patients experience severe burning pain after light exposure, which results in a markedly reduced quality of life. Afamelanotide is the first effective approved medical treatment for EPP, acting on melanocortin-1 receptors. This article aims to review afamelanotide.Areas covered: This review summarizes the chemical properties, pharmacokinetics, safety, preclinical and clinical data on afamelanotide in EPP, and post-marketing surveillance. PubMed search, manufacturers' websites, and relevant articles used for approval by authorities were used for the literature search.Expert opinion: Afamelanotide is an α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone analog. It can activate eumelanogenesis without exposure to UV radiation. Clinical studies in EPP showed that afamelanotide treatment significantly increased exposure to sunlight and QoL. In our clinical experience afamelanotide treatment is much more effective in clinical practice than demonstrated in clinical trials and should be made available for all EPP patients meeting inclusion criteria. The 60-day interval period was not based on effectiveness studies, and therefore for some of the patients the maximum of four implants per year with the 60-day interval is insufficient. Afamelanotide is well tolerated; common adverse events were headache, fatigue, and nausea.

Layering sunscreen with facial makeup enhances its sun protection factor under real-use conditions

BACKGROUND

The proper application of sunscreen is important to ensure protection of the skin against ultraviolet (UV) damage. Sunscreens are used in various ways in real world situations, which alters their UV protection efficacy. In this study, we simulated typical consumer use of sunscreen, which is often sequentially covered with facial makeup, in a laboratory study.

METHODS

We compared the sun protection factors (SPF) of sunscreen and makeup products after consecutive layering of the products.

RESULTS

The SPF of each sunscreen and makeup product was dramatically lower than stated on the label upon application of a typical amount used by a consumer, which is lower than recommended. For high-SPF products, the drop in effective protection was proportionally greater than those for the low-SPF products upon application of lower doses. However, layering sunscreen and makeup products greatly increased the effective SPF compared with that achieved by single application of each product, even when the amount of each product used was below the recommended level.

CONCLUSION

Layering sunscreen with makeup may compensate for insufficient sunscreen application in real-life conditions by providing an additional source of UV protection and improving the homogeneity of coverage. Our results suggest that recommending consecutive application of sunscreen and makeup products may be a practical and useful approach to improving UV protection that would not require additional steps in the facial care routines of many individuals.

Insights and controversies on sunscreen safety

Although sunlight provides several benefits, ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the development of various skin damages such as erythema, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Despite cells having endogenous defense systems, damaged DNA may not be efficiently repaired at chronic exposure. In this sense, it is necessary to use artificial defense strategies such as sunscreen formulations. UV filters should scatter, reflect, or absorb solar UV radiation in order to prevent direct or indirect DNA lesions. However, the safety of UV filters is a matter of concern due to several controversies reported in literature, such as endocrine alterations, allergies, increased oxidative stress, phototoxic events, among others. Despite these controversies, the way in which sunscreens are tested is essential to ensure safety. Sunscreen regulation includes mandatory test for phototoxicity, but photogenotoxicity testing is not recommended as a part of the standard photosafety testing program. Although available photobiological tests are still the first approach to assess photosafety, they are limited. Some existing tests do not always provide reliable results, mainly due to limitations regarding the nature of the assessed phototoxic effect, cell UV sensitivity, and the irradiation protocols. These aspects bring queries regarding the safety of sunscreen wide use and suggest the demand for the development of robust and efficient in vitro screening tests to overcome the existing limitations. In this way, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has stood out as a promising model to fill the gaps in photobiology and to complete the mandatory tests enabling a more extensive and robust photosafety assessment.

The role of symmetric functionalisation on photoisomerisation of a UV commercial chemical filter

Photoisomerisation has been shown to be an efficient excited-state relaxation mechanism for a variety of nature-based and artificial-based molecular systems.

Multifunctional Photostable Nanocomplex of ZnO Quantum Dots and Avobenzone via the Promotion of Enolate Tautomer

Ideal multifunctional ultraviolet radiation (UVR) absorbents with excellent photostability, high molar absorptivity, broadband UVR screening, and desired skin sensorial properties remain a significant challenge for the sunscreen industry. The potential of the nanocomplex (NCx) formed by microwave synthesis of ZnO quantum dots (QDs) in the presence of Avobenzone (Av) for achieving these goals is reported. The NCx exhibits unique synergy between ZnO QD and Av components, which enhances the photostability and molar absorptivity, extends UVA filtering range, and provides a visible emission that matches the typical human in vivo skin emission color. Density functional theory (DFT) and time-dependent DFT calculations of ZnO-Av hybrid structures and comparison of their spectroscopic features with experiments suggest that ZnO QDs catalyze the formation of highly photostable surface enolate species via aldol condensation reaction. The combination of experiments and computations used in this study can advance the science and technology of photoprotection.

In vitro water resistance testing using SPF simulation based on spectroscopic analysis of rinsed sunscreens

OBJECTIVE

Water resistance retention (WRR) is the third performance attribute of sunscreens. Today, the standardized method for testing WRR is performed in vivo. For screening purposes, an in vitro method is highly preferable. Up to now, however, available methods have failed in accurately predicting in vivo WRR. In this study, we examine a novel in vitro approach aimed at enhancing in vivo prediction of WRR.

METHODS

We investigated two approaches, including a traditional procedure referred to as the 'plate method', which involves measuring in vitro sun-protection factor (SPF) before and after water immersion, and a new approach termed the 'solution method'. The latter employed a computational method to calculate the SPF using UV transmittance measurements of a sunscreen solution, obtained by rinsing the substrate without water immersion and with water immersion. It also had a model function for describing film irregularity. The aim was to avoid the effect of substrate-to-product affinity on the film distribution, which impacts the measured absolute value of the in vitro SPF occurring in the conventional approach. For both methodologies, we assessed two substrates for the sunscreen application based on different polymers, the widely used polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) and the ethylene methacrylate acid copolymer (EMA).

RESULTS

The agreement between in vivo and in vitro WRR values obtained from each of the four test conditions was analysed using different sunscreens. No correlation was found between in vivo and in vitro WRR using the plate method, independently of the plate type. In contrast, the solution method, using EMA plates, revealed a significant correlation between in vivo and in vitro results, with an especially high correlation for in vivo non-water-resistant sunscreens. The results of two operators were comparable. The solution method was unsuitable for PMMA plates.

CONCLUSION

Despite the small discrepancy remaining between WRR values obtained from the in vitro solution method and in vivo method, which itself shows variability in results, this work provided a new insight into the in vitro testing of water resistance of sunscreens.

Repartition of oil miscible and water soluble UV filters in an applied sunscreen film determined by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Repartition of UV filters responsible for sun protection in the sunscreen film upon application depends on the formulation of the sunscreen.

A theoretical study of the UV absorption of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor: from the UVB to the UVA region

A theoretical methodology was used to characterize the UV absorption of the photo-stable UVB filter, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor. This study resulted in the design of two novel UVA filters.

Lignin coating to quench photocatalytic activity of titanium dioxide nanoparticles for potential skin care applications

Ultraviolet light can cause photodamage to the skin, such as sunburn and melanomas.

Optical and electron paramagnetic resonance studies of the excited triplet states of UV-B absorbers: 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate

UV-B absorbers, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate, show a photoinduced phosphorescence enhancement, which originates from the photoinduced intermolecular hydrogen-bond formation.

Occupation and factors associated with exposure to the sun among beach workers

Subjects were selected from five urban beaches to characterize the type of work conducted on urban beaches in the city of Natal, state of Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil, and determine potential associated factors among workers exposed to the sun. Data collection was based on a validated questionnaire. Results were obtained for 362 workers. Individuals were predominantly male (72.6%) who worked under direct exposure to the sun (87.8%). Almost 95% had no more than 6 years of schooling and 87.91% earned an average monthly income of $318.75 dollars or more. Photoprotection was reported by 80.1%, among which sunscreen and caps/hats were predominant. Around 25% smoked and more than half did not consume alcohol. Male gender, no more than 6 years of schooling, daily exposure for up to 6 hours and use of photoprotection were the factors associated with the outdoor work category.

Adoption of photoprotection measures on lip and perioral regions among beach workers in North Brazil

BACKGROUND

Workers from various occupational groups stand out as being more susceptible to photodamage. Behaviors that can reduce the risk of onset of these disorders include the limitation or reduction of sun exposure, use of photoprotective clothing, and correct use of sunscreen. The present study aimed to verify the use of photoprotection measures by beach workers on the lips and perioral regions, as well as investigate possible associations with sociodemographic, occupational, and health variables.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

For this purpose, calibrated researchers applied validated questionnaires. The participants were 362 beach workers with a minimum age of 18 years. Data were analyzed using chi-square tests and robust Poisson regression.

RESULTS

In regard to photoprotection measures, most of the population studied reported using some form of protection (80.1%). Among these, the most common were the use of a cap/hat (66.2%) and sunscreen (41.6%). Applying lipstick (3.6%) and using some other measure (4.2%) were the least reported. When compiling a multivariate analysis model, type of work (P = 0.001) was the only variable that explained the adoption of photoprotection measures, regardless of daily and accumulated exposure and the presence of habits.

CONCLUSIONS

In general, most workers reported using some form of photoprotection in the oral and perioral regions, and those exposed to direct solar radiation effectively confirmed this.

Ultraviolet (UVB and UVA) photoprotector activity and percutaneous penetration of extracts obtained from Arrabidaea chica

The aim of this work is to investigate the photoprotection activity and toxicity level of formulations containing the extract and its fractions obtained from leaves of Arrabidaea chica. The ex vivo percutaneous penetration of the extract was evaluated using the photoacoustic spectroscopy technique. The formulation presented optical absorption in the ultraviolet region, including UVA and UVB. This formulation was obtained without adding inorganic UV filters, as is frequently used in commercial sunscreens. The results showed a penetration rate similar to those of commercial sunscreens with its presence on the skin surface at least 180 min after the application. This formulation presented no toxic effects evaluated using hematological, biochemical, and histological assays. The results suggest that the formulation from the leaves of A. chica provides substantial protection against UVA + UVB radiation with a possible advantage of being natural and free of inorganic compounds compared with the majority of available commercial sunscreens.

Prevalência de lesões labiais em trabalhadores de praia e fatores associados

OBJETIVO: Analisar a prevalência de lesões labiais decorrentes da exposição solar e potenciais associações em trabalhadores de praia. MÉTODOS: Estudo transversal com 362 trabalhadores de cinco praias urbanas em Natal, RN, de agosto a dezembro de 2010. Os participantes responderam um questionário validado com dados pessoais, de ocupação e de saúde e passaram por exame clínico dos lábios feito por pesquisadores calibrados. As possíveis associações das variáveis sociodemográficas, ocupacionais e de saúde geral com a presença de lesões labiais foram avaliadas pelo teste do qui-quadrado para um nível de significância de 5%. A análise multivariada foi feita utilizando-se a regressão robusta de Poisson. RESULTADOS: Dos trabalhadores examinados, 27,1% apresentavam lesões labiais. Desses, 76,8% eram do sexo masculino; 61,6% tinham pele morena ou negra; 94,5% trabalhavam informalmente; e 85,4% trabalhavam expostos ao sol. A maioria (81,1%) relatou uso de algum tipo de fotoproteção: protetor solar (38,7%); protetor labial (15,3%); boné/chapéu (72,4%). Aproximadamente 28% eram fumantes e 48% consumiam álcool regularmente. A fotoproteção com uso de boné/chapéu foi associada à presença de lesões labiais decorrentes da exposição solar. CONCLUSÕES: Observou-se alta prevalência de lesões labiais nos indivíduos expostos ao sol, a qual foi associada ao uso de boné/chapéu como forma de fotoproteção.

Sunburn protection as a function of sunscreen application thickness differs between high and low SPFs

BACKGROUND

Sunscreens are an important component of healthy sun-protection behavior. To achieve satisfactory protection, sunscreens must be applied consistently, evenly and correctly. Consumers do not apply sunscreen properly and, therefore, do not achieve the protection indicated by the label 'sun protection factor' (SPF). The objective of the present study was to determine the actual sun(burn) protection given by a range of sunscreen application thickness levels for both low and high SPF formulas.

SUBJECTS AND METHODS

Forty study subjects were recruited from each of three geographical regions in China. Sunscreens with label SPFs of 4, 15, 30, and 55 were tested at application levels of 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 mg/cm(2) in three laboratories using a standard SPF protocol.

RESULTS

Sunscreens with lower SPFs (4 and 15) showed a linear dose-response relationship with application level, but higher SPF (30 and 55) product protection was exponentially related to application thickness.

CONCLUSION

Sunscreen protection is not related in one uniform way to the amount of product applied to human skin. Consumers may achieve an even lower than expected sunburn protection from high SPF products than from low SPF sunscreens.