Effect of monoglycerides and fatty acids on a ceramide bilayer

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Skin Penetration Enhancer-Incorporated Lipid Nanovesicles (SPE-LNV) for Skin Brightening and Wrinkle Treatment

In this work, we utilize skin penetration enhancers (SPEs) such as ceramide and fatty acids in lipid nanovesicles to promote the transdermal delivery of active ingredients. These SPE-incorporated lipid nanovesicles (SPE-LNV) interact with the constituents of skin's outermost stratum corneum (SC) layer, enabling even niacinamide and adenosine with high water solubility to effectively permeate through, leading to enhanced skin efficacy. We demonstrate by both in vitro and in vivo skin permeation studies that the SPE-LNV formulation containing both ceramide and fatty acids (LNV-CF) exhibits deeper penetration depth and faster permeation rate compared to conventional lipid nanovesicles (LNV) without SPE as well as LNV-C with only ceramide. Moreover, in vivo clinical trials were also performed to confirm that LNV-CF most effectively mediates the delivery of niacinamide and adenosine, resulting in a substantial decrease in melanin index as well as skin wrinkle compared to the control groups. We envision that the strategy of incorporating both ceramide and fatty acids in lipid nanovesicles offers a simple and convenient route for the rapid and effective delivery of water-soluble active ingredients across the skin barrier layer.

Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies

While the chemical composition of vegetable butters and oils has been studied in detail, there is limited knowledge about their mechanisms of action after application on the skin. To understand their dermal effects better, 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (almond, argan, avocado, borage, coconut, evening primrose, kukui, marula, mustard, neem, olive, rapeseed, sacha inchi, safflower, shea butter, soybean and sunflower oils) were reviewed in this research. The reviewed studies focused on non-affected skin, infant skin, psoriasis, xerosis, UVB-induced erythema, atopic dermatitis, molluscum contagiosum, tungiasis, scars, striae and striae gravidarum. We conclude that in inflammation-affected skin, vegetable oils with a high content of oleic acid, together with the lack of or a low linoleic acid content, may cause additional structural damage of the stratum corneum, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids may express positive effects. Non-affected skin, in contrast, may not react negatively to oils high in oleic acid. However, the frequency and duration of an oil's use must be considered an important factor that may accelerate or enhance the negative effects on the skin's structural integrity.

Oleuropein multicompartment nanovesicles enriched with collagen as a natural strategy for the treatment of skin wounds connected with oxidative stress

Aim: Collagen-enriched transfersomes, glycerosomes and glytransfersomes were specifically tailored for skin delivery of oleuropein. Methods: Vesicles were prepared by direct sonication and their main physicochemical and technological properties were measured. Biocompatibility, protective effect and promotion of the healing of a wounded cell monolayer were tested in vitro using fibroblasts. Results: Vesicles were mainly multicompartment, small (∼108 nm), slightly polydispersed (approximately 0.27) and negatively charged (~-49 mV). Oleuropein was incorporated in high amounts (approximately 87%) and vesicles were stable during four months of storage. In vitro studies confirmed the low toxicity of formulations (viability ≥95%), their effectiveness in counteracting nitric oxide generation and damages caused by free oxygen radicals, especially when collagen glytransfersomes were used (viability ~100%). These vesicles also promoted the regeneration of a wounded area by promoting the proliferation and migration of fibroblasts. Conclusion: Collagen-enriched vesicles are promising formulations capable of speeding up the healing of the wounded skin.

Modeling lipid layers of atopic skin and observation of changes in lipid layer properties with changes in ceramide content

BACKGROUND

Studies have shown that there is a high correlation between atopic dermatitis and decrease in ceramide content in the lipid bilayer of skin. Moreover, it has been shown that the reduction in ceramide content in the stratum corneum is unique to atopic dermatitis, indicating that there are particular structural differences between the lipid bilayers of normal and atopic skin.

AIM

This study aimed to compare the lipid bilayer of the atopic skin with that of the healthy skin and to establish a structural model of the lipid bilayer for atopy.

METHODS

Molecular dynamics simulations were performed using NAMD 2.8. Models of lipid bilayers of normal skin and atopic skin, and a model of lipid bilayer containing only ceramide were built with CHARMM-GUI. The thickness, area occupied per lipid, and alignment of lipids were compared among the three models. Potential mean force (PMF) of the sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) on lipid bilayers was calculated to predict the affinity between SLES and lipid bilayers.

RESULTS

Potential mean force calculations showed that the lipid bilayer of atopic skin was able to absorb the surfactant more easily than that of normal skin.

CONCLUSIONS

When the ceramide ratio is low, the thickness of lipid bilayer is reduced and its structure is weakened. Other structural differences between the lipid layers of normal and atopic skin included increased area per lipid and poor alignment of lipids. Further, the atopy lipid bilayer model was found to absorb more SLES than the normal skin lipid bilayer model.

Mechanisms of skin moisturization with hyperharmonized hydroxyl modified fullerene substance

BACKGROUND

Hyper Harmonized Hydroxyl Modified Fullerene Substance (3HFWC⁺ ) establishes hydrogen bonds with the surrounding water molecules and organizes them in clusters with the liquid crystalline state, similar to the properties of water surrounding the biomolecules.

AIMS

To investigate the moisturizing properties of hyperharmonized fullerenol-3HFWC⁺ as an emulsion O/W ingredient on the skin.

PATIENTS/METHODS

We have analyzed the reflexion of the blue light from the skin, in vivo, with different levels of moisturization and compared the influence of three groups of cosmetic products (with various active ingredients, 3HFWC⁺ or water in same percentage in the "vehiculum") on skin moisturization by measuring paramagnetic/diamagnetic properties by Optomagnetic Imaging Spectroscopy.

RESULTS

Regenerating Cream and Body Lotion have shown statistically significant increase of diamagnetic features predominantly in all 3 types of creams, while the Hand Cream formulations have not shown statistically significant results after 4 weeks of treatment. Anti-aging cream with 3HFWC⁺ demonstrated statistically significant increase of paramagnetic properties of the skin (p⁺ /p^- from 0.90 to 0.62) and showed beneficial effects on information transfer and water content in stratum corneum.

CONCLUSION

Although it does not act as a classical moisturizing agent on the skin, 3HFWC⁺ can increase moisturization as a result of hydrogen bonds established among 3HFWC⁺ and water or biomolecules, liquid crystalline state of water in 3HFWC⁺ resembling the properties of water surrounding the biomolecules, and finally, liquid crystalline state of water in the products.

Development of a Liquid Crystal Formulation that Can Penetrate the Stratum Corneum for Intradermal Delivery of Small Interfering RNA

Topical delivery of small interfering RNA (siRNA) can be an attractive method for the treatment of skin diseases and improving the quality of life of patients. However, it is difficult for siRNA to pass through the two major barriers of the skin: the stratum corneum (SC) and tight junctions. We have previously reported that atopic dermatitis of skin without the SC can be efficiently treated by the intradermal administration of trans-activator of transcription (Tat) peptide and AT1002 (tight junction opening peptide). However, novel drug delivery systems are needed for effective SC penetration. Therefore, in the present study, we aimed to develop a lyotropic liquid crystalline (LC) system containing Tat and AT1002 for effective siRNA penetration through the SC. An LC formulation was prepared using selachyl alcohol and purified water, and its skin penetration ability was evaluated. No fluorescence was observed in mouse skin treated with a siRNA solution, as there was no intradermal localization of siRNA from naked siRNA. However, intradermal delivery of siRNA was remarkable and extensive with the LC formulation containing both Tat and AT1002. Semiquantitative analysis by brightness measurement revealed that the LC formulation containing both Tat and AT1002 had significantly enhanced intact skin permeability than other formulations. These results show that the functional peptides in the LC formulation increased SC penetration and intradermal delivery in the healthy skin. Therefore, this novel LC system may be useful in the treatment of various skin diseases.

Seasonal variations in the skin parameters of Caucasian women from Central Europe

BACKGROUND

The human skin is greatly affected by external factors such as UV radiation (UVR), ambient temperature (T), and air humidity. These factors oscillate during the year giving rise to the seasonal variations in the skin properties. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of seasons, environmental T, relative and absolute humidity on the skin parameters of Caucasian women, perform a literature review and discuss the possible factors lying behind the found changes.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We measured stratum corneum (SC) hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level, erythema index, and elasticity parameters R2 and R7 on the forehead and the cheek of Caucasian women from the Czech Republic throughout the year. We also performed a non-systematic literature review focused on the seasonal variations in these skin parameters.

RESULTS

We confirmed a well-documented low SC hydration and sebum production in winter. In spring, we found the lowest TEWL (on the forehead) and the highest SC hydration but also the highest erythema index and the lowest elasticity presumably indicating skin photodamage. For most of the skin parameters, the seasonal variations probably arise due to a complex action of different factors as we extensively discussed.

CONCLUSION

The data about the seasonal variations in the skin parameters are still highly inconsistent and further studies are needed for better understanding of the normal skin changes throughout the year.

Molecular Dynamics Simulations of Micelle Properties and Behaviors of Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate Penetrating Ceramide and Phospholipid Bilayers

Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations with the umbrella sampling (US) method were used to investigate the properties of micelles formed by sodium lauryl ether sulfate with two ether groups (SLE2S) and behaviors of corresponding surfactants transferring from micelles to ceramide and DMPC bilayer surfaces. Average micelle radii based on the Einstein-Smoluchowski and Stokes-Einstein relations showed excellent agreement with those measured by dynamic light scattering, while those obtained by evaluating the gyration radius or calculating the distance between the micelle sulfur atoms and center of mass overestimate the radii. As an SLE2S micelle was pulled down to the ceramide bilayer surface in a 400 ns constant-force steered MD (cf-SMD) simulation, the micelle was partially deformed on the bilayer surface, and several SLE2S surfactants easily were partitioned from the micelle into the ceramide bilayer. In contrast, a micelle was not deformed on the DMPC bilayer surface, and SLE2S surfactants were not transferred from the micelle to the DMPC bilayer. Potential of mean force (PMF) calculations revealed that the Gibbs free energy required for an SLE2S surfactant monomer to transfer from a micelle to bulk water can be compensated by decreased Gibbs free energy when an SLE2S monomer transfers into the ceramide bilayer from bulk water. In addition, micelle deformation on the ceramide bilayer surface can reduce the Gibbs free energy barrier required for a surfactant to escape the micelle and help the surfactant partition from the micelle into the ceramide bilayer. An SLE2S surfactant partitioning into the ceramide bilayer is attributed to hydrogen bonding and favorable interactions between the hydrophilic surfactant head and ceramide molecules, which are more dominant than the dehydration penalty during bilayer insertion. Such interactions between surfactant and lipid molecule heads are considerably reduced in DMPC bilayers owing to dielectric screening by water molecules deep inside the head/tail boundary between the DMPC bilayer. This computational work demonstrates the distinct behavior of SLE2S surfactant micelles on ceramide and DMPC bilayer surfaces in terms of variation in Gibbs free energy, which offers insight into designing surfactants used in transdermal drug delivery systems and cosmetics.

Effective Transcutaneous Delivery of Hyaluronic Acid Using an Easy-to-Prepare Reverse Micelle Formulation

The skin loses its moisture with advancing age, causing cosmetic issues such as wrinkles. In addition, the loss of moisture leads to hypersensitivity to external stimuli such as UV light. Transcutaneous supplementation with hyaluronic acid (HA) is an effective and safe method of recovering the moisturizing function and elasticity of the skin. However, the transcutaneous delivery of HA remains challenging owing to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC) layer. To penetrate the SC barrier, we used a reverse micelle formulation that does not require high energy consumption processes for preparation. We aimed to enhance the skin permeability of HA by incorporating glyceryl monooleate—a skin permeation enhancer—into the formulation. A fluorescently-labeled HA-loaded reverse micelle formulation showed significantly enhanced permeation across Yucatan micro pig skin. Fourier transform infra-red spectroscopy of the surface of the skin treated with the reverse micelle formulation showed blue shifts of the CH2 symmetric/asymmetric stretching peaks, indicating a reduction in the barrier function of the SC. Further study revealed that HA was released from the reverse micelles at the hydrophobic/hydrophilic interface between the SC and the living epidermis. The results demonstrated that our reverse micellar system is an easy-to-prepare formulation for the effective transcutaneous delivery of HA.

The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care

Botanical oils have a long history of traditional use and are routinely applied to skin care. The focus of this review is to contrast the functionality of skin oils versus the differential biological and toxicological effects of major plant oils, and to correlate them to their compositional changes. In total, over 70 vegetable oils were clustered according to their lipid composition to promote awareness of health practitioners and botanical product manufacturers for the safety and efficacy of oil-based interventions based on their fatty acid profiles. Since multiple skin disorders result in depletion or disturbance of skin lipids, a tailored mixture of multiple botanical oils to simultaneously maintain natural skin-barrier function, promote repair and regeneration of wounded tissues, and achieve corrective modulation of immune disorders may be required. As bioactive constituents of botanical oils enter the human body by oral or topical application and often accumulate in measurable blood concentrations, there is also a critical need for monitoring their hazardous effects to reduce the possible over-added toxicity and promote maximal normal tissue sparing. The review also provides a useful tool to improve efficacy and functionality of fatty acid profiles in cosmetic applications.

Transcutaneous Cancer Vaccine Using a Reverse Micellar Antigen Carrier

Skin dendritic cells (DCs) such as Langerhans cells and dermal dendritic cells have a pivotal role in inducing antigen-specific immunity; therefore, transcutaneous cancer vaccines are a promising strategy to prophylactically prevent the onset of a variety of diseases, including cancers. The largest obstacle to delivering antigen to these skin DC subsets is the barrier function of the stratum corneum. Although reverse micellar carriers are commonly used to enhance skin permeability to hydrophilic drugs, the transcutaneous delivery of antigen, proteins, or peptides has not been achieved to date because of the large molecular weight of drugs. To achieve effective antigen delivery to skin DCs, we developed a novel strategy using a surfactant as a skin permeation enhancer in a reverse micellar carrier. In this study, glyceryl monooleate (MO) was chosen as a skin permeation enhancer, and the MO-based reverse micellar carrier enabled the successful delivery of antigen to Langerhans cells and dermal dendritic cells. Moreover, transcutaneous vaccination with the MO-based reverse micellar carrier significantly inhibited tumor growth, indicating that it is a promising vaccine platform against tumors.

Effect of Ceramide Tail Length on the Structure of Model Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers

Lipid bilayers composed of non-hydroxy sphingosine ceramide (CER NS), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are components of the human skin barrier, are studied via molecular dynamics simulations. Since mixtures of these lipids exist in dense gel phases with little molecular mobility at physiological conditions, care must be taken to ensure that the simulations become decorrelated from the initial conditions. Thus, we propose and validate an equilibration protocol based on simulated tempering, in which the simulation takes a random walk through temperature space, allowing the system to break out of metastable configurations and hence become decorrelated from its initial configuration. After validating the equilibration protocol, which we refer to as random-walk molecular dynamics, the effects of the lipid composition and ceramide tail length on bilayer properties are studied. Systems containing pure CER NS, CER NS + CHOL, and CER NS + CHOL + FFA, with the CER NS fatty acid tail length varied within each CER NS-CHOL-FFA composition, are simulated. The bilayer thickness is found to depend on the structure of the center of the bilayer, which arises as a result of the tail-length asymmetry between the lipids studied. The hydrogen bonding between the lipid headgroups and with water is found to change with the overall lipid composition, but is mostly independent of the CER fatty acid tail length. Subtle differences in the lateral packing of the lipid tails are also found as a function of CER tail length. Overall, these results provide insight into the experimentally observed trend of altered barrier properties in skin systems where there are more CERs with shorter tails present.

Mechanisms of lipid extraction from skin lipid bilayers by sebum triglycerides

Microsecond computations identify the pathways leading to the extraction of skin lipids by sebum triglycerides and the associated energetic costs.

Molecular dynamics simulations of stratum corneum lipid mixtures: A multiscale perspective

The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC) layer of skin is essential for human survival; it acts as a barrier to prevent rapid dehydration while keeping potentially hazardous material outside the body. While the composition of the SC lipid matrix is known, the molecular-level details of its organization are difficult to infer experimentally, hindering the discovery of structure-property relationships. To this end, molecular dynamics simulations, which give molecular-level resolution, have begun to play an increasingly important role in understanding these relationships. However, most simulation studies of SC lipids have focused on preassembled bilayer configurations, which, owing to the slow dynamics of the lipids, may influence the final structure and hence the calculated properties. Self-assembled structures would avoid this dependence on the initial configuration, however, the size and length scales involved make self-assembly impractical to study with atomistic models. Here, we report on the development of coarse-grained models of SC lipids designed to study self-assembly. Building on previous work, we present the interactions between the headgroups of ceramide and free fatty acid developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion method. Validation of the new interactions is performed with simulations of preassembled bilayers and good agreement between the atomistic and coarse-grained models is found for structural properties. The self-assembly of mixtures of ceramide and free fatty acid is investigated and both bilayer and multilayer structures are found to form. This work therefore represents a necessary step in studying SC lipid systems on multiple time and length scales.

Understanding the interactions between sebum triglycerides and water: a molecular dynamics simulation study

Sebum triglycerides actively contribute to the water transport across the sebum layerviathe percolating network of triglyceride head groups.

Permeation pathways through lateral domains in model membranes of skin lipids

Lateral organisation of skin lipids in membranes produces regions with different permeability; water permeation is favoured through cholesterol-rich regions.

Surfactant Assemblies on Selected Nanostructured Surfaces: Evidence, Driving Forces, and Applications

Surfactant adsorption at solid-liquid interfaces is critical for a number of applications of vast industrial interest and can also be used to seed surface-modification processes. Many of the surfaces of interest are nanostructured, as they might present surface roughness at the molecular scale, chemical heterogeneity, as well as a combination of both surface roughness and chemical heterogeneity. These effects provide lateral confinement on the surfactant aggregates. It is of interest to quantify how much surfactant adsorbs on such nanostructured surfaces and how the surfactant aggregates vary as the degree of lateral confinement changes. This review focuses on experimental evidence on selected substrates, including gold- and carbon-based substrates, suggesting that lateral confinement can have pronounced effects both on the amount adsorbed and on the morphology of the aggregates as well as on a systematic study, via diverse simulation approaches, on the effect of lateral confinement on the structure of the surfactant aggregates. Atomistic and coarse-grained simulations conducted for surfactants on graphene sheets and carbon nanotubes are reviewed, as well as coarse-grained simulations for surfactant adsorption on nanostructured surfaces. Finally, we suggest a few possible extensions of these studies that could positively impact a few practical applications. In particular, the simultaneous effect of lateral confinement and of the coadsorption of molecular compounds within the surface aggregates is expected to yield interesting fundamental results with long-lasting consequences in applications ranging from drug delivery to the design of advanced materials.