Exploring the Effects of Wetting and Free Fatty Acid Deposition on an Atomistic Hair Fiber Surface Model Incorporating Keratin-Associated Protein 5-1

The complex development of cosmetic and medical formulations relies on an ever-growing accuracy of predictive models of hair surfaces. Hitherto, modeling efforts have focused on the description of 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), the primary fatty acid covalently attached to the hair surface, without explicit modeling of the protein layer. Herein, the molecular details of the outermost surface of the human hair fiber surface, also called the F-layer, were studied using molecular dynamics (MD) simulations. The F-layer is composed primarily of keratin-associated proteins KAP5 and KAP10, which are decorated with 18-MEA on the outer surface of a hair fiber. In our molecular model, we incorporated KAP5-1 and evaluated the surface properties of 18-MEA through MD simulations, resulting in 18-MEA surface density, layer thickness, and tilt angles in agreement with previous experimental and computational studies. Subsequent models with reduced 18-MEA surface density were also generated to mimic damaged hair surfaces. Response to wetting of virgin and damaged hair showed rearrangement of 18-MEA on the surface, allowing for water penetration into the protein layer. To demonstrate a potential use case for these atomistic models, we deposited naturally occurring fatty acids and measured 18-MEA's response in both dry and wet conditions. As fatty acids are often incorporated in shampoo formulations, this work demonstrates the ability to model the adsorption of ingredients on hair surfaces. This study illustrates, for the first time, the complex behavior of a realistic F-layer at the molecular level and opens up the possibility of studying the adsorption behavior of larger, more complex molecules and formulations.

Do polyproline II helix associations modulate biomolecular condensates?

Biomolecular condensates are microdroplets that form inside cells and serve to selectively concentrate proteins, RNAs and other molecules for a variety of physiological functions, but can contribute to cancer, neurodegenerative diseases and viral infections. The formation of these condensates is driven by weak, transient interactions between molecules. These weak associations can operate at the level of whole protein domains, elements of secondary structure or even moieties composed of just a few atoms. Different types of condensates do not generally combine to form larger microdroplets, suggesting that each uses a distinct class of attractive interactions. Here, we address whether polyproline II (PPII) helices mediate condensate formation. By combining with PPII-binding elements such as GYF, WW, profilin, SH3 or OCRE domains, PPII helices help form lipid rafts, nuclear speckles, P-body-like neuronal granules, enhancer complexes and other condensates. The number of PPII helical tracts or tandem PPII-binding domains can strongly influence condensate stability. Many PPII helices have a low content of proline residues, which hinders their identification. Recently, we characterized the NMR spectral properties of a Gly-rich, Pro-poor protein composed of six PPII helices. Based on those results, we predicted that many Gly-rich segments may form PPII helices and interact with PPII-binding domains. This prediction is being tested and could join the palette of verified interactions contributing to biomolecular condensate formation.

Glycine rich segments adopt polyproline II helices: Implications for biomolecular condensate formation

Many intrinsically disordered proteins contain Gly-rich regions which are generally assumed to be disordered. Such regions often form biomolecular condensates which play essential roles in organizing cellular processes. However, the bases of their formation and stability are still not completely understood. Based on NMR studies of the Gly-rich H. harveyi "snow flea" antifreeze protein, we recently proposed that Gly-rich sequences, such as the third "RGG" region of Fused in Sarcoma (FUS) protein, may adopt polyproline II helices whose association might stabilize condensates. Here, this hypothesis is tested with a polypeptide corresponding to the third RGG region of FUS. NMR spectroscopy and molecular dynamics simulations suggest that significant populations of polyproline II helix are present. These findings are corroborated in a model peptide Ac-RGGYGGRGGWGGRGGY-NH₂, where a peak characteristic of polyproline II helix is observed using CD spectroscopy. Its intensity suggests a polyproline II population of 40%. This result is supported by data from FTIR and NMR spectroscopies. In the latter, NOE correlations are observed between the Tyr and Arg, and Arg and Trp side chain hydrogens, confirming that side chains spaced three residues apart are close in space. Taken together, the data are consistent with a polyproline II helix, which is bent to optimize interactions between guanidinium and aromatic moieties, in equilibrium with a statistical coil ensemble. These results lend credence to the hypothesis that Gly-rich segments of disordered proteins may form polyproline II helices which help stabilize biomolecular condensates.

Conformation changes in human hair keratin observed using confocal Raman spectroscopy after active ingredient application

OBJECTIVE

In hair care cosmetic products' evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels.

METHODS

To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α-helix and β-sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content.

RESULTS

We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α-helix keratin conformation and promotes β-sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S-S at 510 cm-1 ) cross-linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin.

CONCLUSION

From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α-helix and β-sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non-destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories.

Structural behavior of keratin-associated protein 8.1 in human hair as revealed by a monoclonal antibody

Keratin-associated protein 8.1 (KAP8.1) is a hair protein whose structure, biochemical roles, and protein distribution patterns have not been well characterized. In this study, we generated a monoclonal antibody against human KAP8.1 to analyze the protein's roles and distribution in the human hair shaft. Using this antibody, we revealed that KAP8.1 was predominantly expressed in discrete regions of the keratinizing zone of the hair shaft cortex. The protein expression patterns paralleled the distribution of KAP8.1 mRNA and suggested that KAP8.1 plays a role associated with cells to control hair curvature. Cross-reactivity among species and epitope analysis indicated that the monoclonal antibody recognized a linear epitope shared among human, mouse, and sheep KAP8.1. The antibody failed to interact with sheep KAP8.1 in native conformation, suggesting that structural features of KAP8.1 vary among species.

Towards Fingermark Dating: A Raman Spectroscopy Proof-of-Concept Study

Fingermarks have, for a long time, been vital in the forensic community for the identification of individuals, and a possibility to non‐destructively date the fingermarks would of course be beneficial. Raman spectroscopy is, herein, evaluated for the purpose of estimating the age of fingermarks deposits. Well‐resolved spectra were non‐destructively acquired to reveal spectral uniqueness, resembling those of epidermis, and several molecular markers were identified that showed different decay kinetics: carotenoids > squalene > unsaturated fatty acids > proteins. The degradation rates were accelerated, less pronounced for proteins, when samples were stored under ambient light conditions, likely owing to photo‐oxidation. It is hypothesized that fibrous proteins are present and that oxidation of amino acid side chains can be observed both through Raman and fluorescence spectroscopy. Clearly, Raman spectroscopy is a useful technique to non‐destructively study the aging processes of fingermarks.