Inter- and intra-individual differences in human stratum corneum lipid content related to physical parameters of skin barrier function in vivo

Formulation and Skin Permeation of Active-Loaded Lipid Nanoparticles: Evaluation and Screening by Synergizing Molecular Dynamics Simulations and Experiments

Encapsulation into nanoparticles (NPs) is a potential method to deliver pharmaceutical/cosmetic actives deep into the skin. However, understanding the NP formulations and underlying mechanism of active delivery to skin has scarcely been studied. We report a simulation platform that screens, evaluates, formulates, and provides atomic-resolution interpretation of NP-based formulations, and reveals the active permeation mechanism from NPs to skin. First, three actives, namely, ferulic acid (FA), clotrimazole (CZE), and tretinoin (TTN), and five lipid excipients' (Compritol, Precirol, Geleol, Gelot, Gelucire) combinations were screened by MD simulations for the best pairs. For each suggested pair, the actual active and lipid compositions for the synthesis of stable NP formulations were then obtained by experiments. MD simulations demonstrate that in NP formulations, FA and CZE actives are present at the surface of the NPs, whereas TTN actives are present at both the surface and interior of the NP core. The NP shapes obtained by simulation perfectly match with experiments. For each NP, separate MD simulations illustrate that active-loaded NPs approach the skin surface quickly, and then actives translocate from NP surface to skin surface followed by penetration of NPs through skin. The driving force for the translocation which initiates during the penetration process, is the stronger active-skin interaction compared to active-NP interaction. Permeation free energy indicates spontaneous transfer of actives from solution phase to the surface of the skin bilayer. The free energy barriers are increased in the order of FA < TTN < CZE. Significantly lower diffusions of actives are obtained in the main barrier region compared to bulk, and the average diffusion coefficients of actives are in the same order of magnitude (∼10^-6 cm²/s). The estimated permeability coefficients (log P) of actives are mainly governed by free energy barriers. The study would facilitate the development of novel lipid-based NP formulations for personal-care/pharmaceutical applications.

Application of mevalonolactone prevents deterioration of epidermal barrier function by accelerating the lamellar granule lipid transport system

BACKGROUND

Fatty acids increase ATP-binding cassette ABC transporter A12 (ABCA12) levels via an increase in peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor β/δ (PPAR β/δ). Promoting lipid transport to lamellar granules has been suggested to improve epidermal barrier function in patients with dry skin.

OBJECTIVE

We investigated whether mevalonolactone (MVL) produced by Saccharomycopsis fibuligera improves dry skin by promoting ABCA12 expression and the amount of free fatty acids in epidermal keratinocytes.

METHODS

We examined whether MVL increases ABCA12 mRNA and protein levels and the amount of Nile red-positive lipids in cultured epidermal keratinocytes and in a three-dimensional epidermal model by cell staining. Promotion of fatty acid production by MVL was analyzed by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. We also evaluated whether MVL addition increases PPAR β/δ mRNA expression in cultured keratinocytes. Based on the results, a randomized controlled trial was conducted in which milky lotions containing MVL and placebo were applied to dry facial skin of healthy female volunteers in winter.

RESULTS

MVL increased ABCA12 mRNA and protein levels and lamellar granule number and size. Fatty acid analysis revealed that MVL elevated myristic acid, palmitic acid, and palmitoleic acid levels as well as PPAR β/δ mRNA expression. In human tests, milky lotions containing MVL were shown to significantly improve transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the stratum corneum compared to placebo.

CONCLUSION

The results suggest that MVL increases fatty acid uptake and ABCA12, promotes fatty acid transport to lamellar granules, and improves epidermal barrier function in dry skin through increased expression of PPAR β/δ.

Analytical approaches to assess metabolic changes in psoriasis

Psoriasis is one of the most common human skin diseases, although its development is not limited to one tissue, but is associated with autoimmune reactions throughout the body. Overproduction of pro-inflammatory cytokines and growth factors systemically stimulates the proliferation of skin cells, which manifests as excessive exfoliation of the epidermis, and/or arthritis, as well as other comorbidities such as insulin resistance, metabolic syndrome, hypertension, and depression. Thus, there is a great need for a thorough analysis of the pathophysiology of psoriatic patients, including classical methods, such as spectrophotometry, chromatography, or Western blot, and also novel omics approaches such as lipidomics and proteomics. Moreover, the extensive pathophysiology forces increased research examining biological changes in both skin cells, and systemically. A wide range of techniques involved in lipidomic research based on a combination of mass spectrometry and different types of chromatography (RP-LC-QTOF-MS/MS, HILIC-QTOF-MS/MS or RP-LC-QTRAP-MS/MS), have allowed comprehensive assessment of lipid modification in psoriatic skin and provided new insight into the role of lipids and their mechanism of action in psoriasis. Moreover, proteomic analysis using gel-nanoLC-OrbiTrap-MS/MS, as well as MALDI-TOF/TOF techniques facilitates the description of panels of enzymes involved in lipidome modifications, and the response of the endocannabinoid system to metabolic changes. Psoriasis is known to alter the expression of proteins that are involved in the inflammatory and antioxidant response, as well as protein biosynthesis, degradation, as well as cell proliferation and apoptosis. Knowledge of changes in the lipidomic and proteomic profile will not only allow the understanding of psoriasis pathophysiology, but also facilitate proper and early diagnosis and effective pharmacotherapy.

Molecular dynamics simulations to elucidate translocation and permeation of active from lipid nanoparticle to skin: complemented by experiments

One of the most realistic approaches for delivering actives (pharmaceuticals/cosmetics) deep into skin layers is encapsulation into nanoparticles (NPs). Nonetheless, molecular-level mechanisms related to active delivery from NPs to the skin have scarcely been studied despite the large number of synthesis and characterization studies. We herein report the underlying mechanism of active translocation and permeation through the outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum (SC), via molecular dynamics (MD) simulations complemented by experimental studies. A SC molecular model is constructed using current state-of-the-art methodology via incorporating the three most abundant skin lipids: ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. As a potent antioxidant, ferulic acid (FA) is used as the model active, and it is loaded into Gelucire 50/13 NP. MD simulations elucidate that, first, FA-loaded NP approaches the skin surface quickly, followed by slight penetration and adsorption onto the upper skin surface; FA then translocates from the NP surface to the skin surface due to stronger NP-skin interactions compared to the FA-NP interactions; then, once FA is released onto the skin surface, it slowly permeates deep into the skin bilayer. Both the free energy and resistance to permeation not only indicate the spontaneous transfer of FA from the bulk to the skin surface, but they also reveal that the main barrier against permeation exists in the middle of the lipid hydrophobic tails. Significantly lower diffusion of FA is obtained in the main barrier region compared to the bulk. The estimated permeability coefficient (log P) values are found to be higher than the experimental values. Importantly, the permeation process evaluated via MD simulations perfectly matches with experiments. The study suggests a molecular simulation platform that provides various crucial insights relating to active delivery from loaded NP to skin, and it could facilitate the design and development of novel NP-based formulations for transdermal delivery and the topical application of drugs/cosmetics.

How to control interactions of cellulose-based biomaterials with skin: the role of acidity in the contact area

Being able to control the interactions of biomaterials with living tissues and skin is highly desirable for many biomedical applications. This is particularly the case for cellulose-based materials which provide one of the most versatile platforms for tissue engineering due to their strength, biocompatibility and abundance. Achieving such control, however, requires detailed molecular-level knowledge of the dominant interaction mechanisms. Here, we employed both biased and unbiased atomic-scale molecular dynamics simulations to explore how cellulose crystals interact with model stratum corneum bilayers, ternary mixtures of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. Our findings show that acidity in the contact area directly affects binding between cellulose and the stratum corneum bilayer: Protonation of free fatty acids in the bilayer promotes attractive cellulose-bilayer interactions. We identified two major factors that control the cellulose-skin interactions: (i) the electrostatic repulsion between a cellulose crystal and the charged (anionic due to deprotonated fatty acids) surface of a stratum corneum bilayer and (ii) the cellulose-stratum corneum hydrogen bonding. When less than half of the fatty acids in the bilayer are protonated, the first factor dominates and there is no binding to skin. At a larger degree of fatty acid protonation the cellulose-stratum corneum hydrogen bonding prevails yielding a tight binding. Remarkably, we found that ceramide molecules are the key component in hydrogen bonding with cellulose. Overall, our findings highlight the critical role of fatty acid protonation in biomaterial-stratum corneum interactions and can be used for optimizing the surface properties of cellulose-based materials aimed at biomedical applications such as wound dressings.

Nanotechnology-based Drug Delivery Systems as Potential for Skin Application: A Review

Administration of substances through the skin represents a promising alternative, in relation to other drug administration routes, due to its large body surface area, in order to offer ideal and multiple sites for drug administration. In addition, the administration of drugs through the skin avoids the first-pass metabolism, allowing an increase in the bioavailability of drugs, as well as reducing their side effects. However, the stratum corneum (SC) comprises the main barrier of protection against external agents, mainly due to its structure, composition and physicochemical properties, becoming the main limitation for the administration of substances through the skin. In view of the above, pharmaceutical technology has allowed the development of multiple drug delivery systems (DDS), which include liquid crystals (LC), cubosomes, liposomes, polymeric nanoparticles (PNP), nanoemulsions (NE), as well as cyclodextrins (CD) and dendrimers (DND). It appears that the DDS circumvents the problems of drug absorption through the SC layer of the skin, ensuring the release of the drug, as well as optimizing the therapeutic effect locally. This review aims to highlight the DDS that include LC, cubosomes, lipid systems, PNP, as well as CD and DND, to optimize topical skin therapies.

Adaptive physiological water conservation explains hypertension and muscle catabolism in experimental chronic renal failure

Aim

We have reported earlier that a high salt intake triggered an aestivation‐like natriuretic‐ureotelic body water conservation response that lowered muscle mass and increased blood pressure. Here, we tested the hypothesis that a similar adaptive water conservation response occurs in experimental chronic renal failure.

Methods

In four subsequent experiments in Sprague Dawley rats, we used surgical 5/6 renal mass reduction (5/6 Nx) to induce chronic renal failure. We studied solute and water excretion in 24‐hour metabolic cage experiments, chronic blood pressure by radiotelemetry, chronic metabolic adjustment in liver and skeletal muscle by metabolomics and selected enzyme activity measurements, body Na⁺, K⁺ and water by dry ashing, and acute transepidermal water loss in conjunction with skin blood flow and intra‐arterial blood pressure.

Results

5/6 Nx rats were polyuric, because their kidneys could not sufficiently concentrate the urine. Physiological adaptation to this renal water loss included mobilization of nitrogen and energy from muscle for organic osmolyte production, elevated norepinephrine and copeptin levels with reduced skin blood flow, which by means of compensation reduced their transepidermal water loss. This complex physiologic‐metabolic adjustment across multiple organs allowed the rats to stabilize their body water content despite persisting renal water loss, albeit at the expense of hypertension and catabolic mobilization of muscle protein.

Conclusion

Physiological adaptation to body water loss, termed aestivation, is an evolutionary conserved survival strategy and an under‐studied research area in medical physiology, which besides hypertension and muscle mass loss in chronic renal failure may explain many otherwise unexplainable phenomena in medicine.

Assessment of non-invasive techniques and herbal-based products on dermatological physiology and intercellular lipid properties

Skin is the largest external organ of the human body. It acts as a barrier to protect the human body from environmental pollution, mechanical stress, and excessive water loss. The defensive function resides primarily on top of the epidermis layer commonly known as stratum corneum (SC). Human SC consists of three major lipids, namely ceramide, free fatty acid, and cholesterol that comprise approximately 50%, 25%, and 25% of the total lipid mass, respectively. The optimal composition of SC lipids is the vital epidermal barrier function of the skin. On the other hand, skin barrier serves to limit passive water loss from the body, reduces chemical absorption from the environment, and prevents microbial infection. In contrast, epidermal lipids are important to maintain the cell structure, growth and differentiation, cohesion and desquamation as well as formation of a permeability barrier. Multiple non-invasive in vivo approaches were implemented on a regular basis to monitor skin physiological and intercellular lipid properties. The measurement of different parameters such as transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration level, skin elasticity, collagen intensity, melanin content, sebum, pH, and tape stripping is essential to evaluate the epidermal barrier function. Novel non-invasive techniques such as tape stripping, ultrasound imaging, and laser confocal microscopy offer higher possibility of accurate and detailed characterisation of skin barrier. To date, these techniques have also been widely used to determine the effects of herbal plants in dermatology. Herbal plants have been traditionally used for ages to treat a variety of skin diseases, as reported by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Their availability, lower cost, and minimal or no side effects have created awareness among society, thus increase the demand for natural sources as the remedy to treat various skin diseases. This paper reviews several non-invasive techniques and evaluations of herbal-based product in dermatology.

Lipidomic analysis as a tool for identifying susceptibility to various skin diseases

This review is about the significance of the use of lipidomic analysis for identifying susceptibility to skin diseases. Exactly this article describes the use of lipidomic analysis in different studies to detect abnormalities in the lipid composition of the skin to diagnose and prevent various dermatological diseases.

Molecular dynamic simulations of oxidized skin lipid bilayer and permeability of reactive oxygen species

Lipid peroxidation by reactive oxygen species (ROS) during oxidative stress is non-enzymatic damage that affects the integrity of biological membrane, and alters the fluidity and permeability. We conducted molecular dynamic simulation studies to evaluate the structural properties of the bilayer after lipid peroxidation and to measure the permeability of distinct ROS. The oxidized membrane contains free fatty acid, ceramide, cholesterol, and 5α-hydroperoxycholesterol (5α-CH). The result of unconstrained molecular dynamic simulations revealed that lipid peroxidation causes area-per-lipid of the bilayer to increase and bilayer thickness to decrease. The simulations also revealed that the oxidized group of 5α-CH (-OOH) moves towards the aqueous layer and its backbone tilts causing lateral expansion of the bilayer membrane. These changes are detrimental to structural and functional properties of the membrane. The measured free energy profile for different ROS (H₂O₂, HO₂, HO, and O₂) across the peroxidized lipid bilayer showed that the increase in lipid peroxidation resulted in breaching barrier decrease for all species, allowing easy traversal of the membrane. Thus, lipid peroxidation perturbs the membrane barrier and imposes oxidative stress resulting into apoptosis. The collective insights increase the understanding of oxidation stress at the atomic level.

Effect of Chemical Permeation Enhancers on Skin Permeability: In silico screening using Molecular Dynamics simulations

Breaching of the skin barrier is essential for delivering active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) for pharmaceutical, dermatological and aesthetic applications. Chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) are molecules that interact with the constituents of skin’s outermost and rate limiting layer stratum corneum (SC), and increase its permeability. Designing and testing of new CPEs is a resource intensive task, thus limiting the rate of discovery of new CPEs. In-silico screening of CPEs in a rigorous skin model could speed up the design of CPEs. In this study, we performed coarse grained (CG) molecule dynamics (MD) simulations of a multilayer skin lipid matrix in the presence of CPEs. The CPEs are chosen from different chemical functionalities including fatty acids, esters, and alcohols. A multi-layer in-silico skin model was developed. The CG parameters of permeation enhancers were also developed. Interactions of CPEs with SC lipids was studied in silico at three different CPE concentrations namely, 1% w/v, 3% w/v and 5% w/v. The partitioning and diffusion coefficients of CPEs in the SC lipids were found to be highly size- and structure-dependent and these dependencies are explained in terms of structural properties such as radial distribution function, area per lipid and order parameter. Finally, experimentally reported effects of CPEs on skin from the literature are compared with the simulation results. The trends obtained using simulations are in good agreement with the experimental measurements. The studies presented here validate the utility of in-silico models for designing, screening and testing of novel and effective CPEs.

Insight from Molecular dynamic simulation of reactive oxygen species in oxidized skin membrane

Non-enzymatic lipid peroxidation of the skin-lipid bilayer causes perturbations that affect the biomembrane structure, function, and permeability of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In the present study, we employed molecular dynamics simulations to study the effect of lipid peroxidation on the bilayer structural properties and permeability of various ROS. The oxidized skin-lipid bilayer was composed of ceramide, cholesterol, free fatty acid, and 5α-hydroperoxycholesterol (5α-CH). The simulation showed that, upon oxidation, the oxidized group (-OOH) of 5α-CH migrates towards the aqueous phase and the backbone of 5α-CH tilts, which causes the membrane to expand laterally. Measurements of the permeability of all ROS along the oxidized skin-lipid bilayer revealed a decreased breaching barrier for all the species as the degree of peroxidation increased, with a resulting easy passage across the membrane. The insights from the simulations indicate that lipid peroxidation might perturb the membrane barrier, thereby inflicting oxidative stress that leads to apoptosis. This study helps to understand oxidative stress at the atomic level. To our knowledge, this is the first reported molecular dynamics simulation study on oxidized skin-lipid bilayer and permeability of ROS.

Influence of the sebaceous gland density on the stratum corneum lipidome

The skin surface lipids (SSL) result from the blending of sebaceous and epidermal lipids, which derive from the sebaceous gland (SG) secretion and the permeability barrier of the stratum corneum (SC), respectively. In humans, the composition of the SSL is distinctive of the anatomical distribution of the SG. Thus, the abundance of sebum biomarkers is consistent with the density of the SG. Limited evidence on the influence that the SG exerts on the SC lipidome is available. We explored the differential amounts of sebaceous and epidermal lipids in areas at different SG density with lipidomics approaches. SC was sampled with adhesive patches from forearm, chest, and forehead of 10 healthy adults (8F, 2M) after mechanical removal of sebum with absorbing paper. Lipid extracts of SC were analysed by HPLC/(-)ESI-TOF-MS. In the untargeted approach, the naïve molecular features extraction algorithm was used to extract meaningful entities. Aligned and normalized data were evaluated by univariate and multivariate statistics. Quantitative analysis of free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol sulfate (CHS) was performed by targeted HPLC/(-)ESI-TOF-MS, whereas cholesterol and squalene were quantified by GC-MS. Untargeted approaches demonstrated that the relative abundance of numerous lipid species was distinctive of SC depending upon the different SG density. The discriminating species included FFA, CHS, and ceramides. Targeted analyses confirmed that sebaceous FFA and epidermal FFA were increased and decreased, respectively, in areas at high SG density. CHS and squalene, which are biomarkers of epidermal and sebaceous lipid matrices, respectively, were both significantly higher in areas at elevated SG density. Overall, results indicated that the SG secretion intervenes in shaping the lipid composition of the epidermal permeability barrier.

Identification of Rice Koji Extract Components that Increase β-Glucocerebrosidase Levels in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes

Rice miso contains many ingredients derived from rice koji and has been a valuable source of nutrition since ancient times. We found that the consumption of rice miso led to improvements in the moisture content of cheek stratum corneum, skin viscoelasticity, and skin texture. Further, rice miso extract was found to increase the mRNA expression and activity of β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase), an enzyme involved in ceramide synthesis in the stratum corneum, in cultures. In this study, we identified the lipid-derived components of rice koji that increase the β-GCase activity in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. The methanol fraction of rice koji extract induced an increase in the mRNA expression and activity of β-GCase in keratinocytes. The active fraction of rice koji was found to contain phosphatidic acid (PA) and lysophosphatidic acid (LPA). The total PA concentration in rice koji was 973.9 ng/mg dry weight, which was 17.5 times higher than that in steamed rice. Among the molecular species, PA_18:2/18:2 was the most frequently found. The total LPA concentration in rice koji was 29.6 ng/mg dry weight, and 2-LPA_18:2 was the most frequently found LPA. Since PA and LPA increase the mRNA expression and activity of β-GCase in keratinocytes, they are thought to be the active ingredients in rice koji that increase the β-GCase levels in human epidermal keratinocytes.

In-silico design of nanoparticles for transdermal drug delivery application

Nanoparticles are used in the medical field for various applications like cell imaging, drug delivery, gene and si-RNA delivery, to name a few. Designing nanoparticles for a given application, purely based on the trial and error experimentation, requires a lot of time and effort. In this study we show that computer simulations could help in designing nanoparticles for drug delivery thus reducing the time and cost associated with their design, development and deployment. The permeation of nanoparticles, having various surface chemistries and patterns, through the skin lipid bilayer was studied using constrained and unconstrained molecular dynamics simulations. Interestingly, the permeation mechanism of nanoparticles having the same surface chemistry but different patterns was found to be completely different. Nanoparticles (NPs) were screened based on the free energy of permeation through the skin lipid bilayer. The behavior of the screened NPs was further validated with unconstrained simulations using the skin lipid bilayer. Nanoparticles thus screened through both of the techniques were further used for the co-delivery of a model protein into the skin lipid bilayer. It was observed that the nanoparticles having a 2 : 1 homogeneous ratio of hydrophobic to hydrophilic regions were the most promising in transdermal delivery of proteins. The obtained results are in line with the results of recent permeation experiments on cell and plasma membrane. Our study could help in in-silico design of nanoparticles for delivery of actives through skin. These in-silico experiments thus could help speed up the development process by guiding formulation chemists.

Ethnic differences in stratum corneum functions between Chinese and Thai infants residing in Bangkok, Thailand

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Ethnic and racial differences in infant skin have not been well characterized. The purpose of this study was to establish whether there are ethnic differences and similarities in the stratum corneum (SC) functions of Thai and Chinese infants.

METHODS

Healthy infants 6 to 24 months of age (N = 60; 30 Thai, 30 Chinese) who resided in Bangkok, Thailand, were enrolled. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and SC hydration (capacitance) on the thigh, buttock, and upper arm were measured. Ceramide content was determined in the SC on the upper arm.

RESULTS

SC hydration was not remarkably different between the two ethnicities at any site measured, but TEWL was significantly higher in Chinese infants than in Thai infants at all sites. Hydration of the SC was not significantly correlated with age in either ethnicity. TEWL had significant but weak correlations with age on the thigh and upper arm in Thai infants. Ceramide content was significantly higher in Chinese SC than in Thai SC. No relationship between ceramide content and TEWL or hydration was observed in either ethnicity.

CONCLUSION

The significant differences in TEWL and ceramide contents between Chinese and Thai infant skin could prove useful in designing skin care and diapering products that are best suited for each ethnicity.

In-Silico Skin Model: A Multiscale Simulation Study of Drug Transport

Accurate in-silico models are required to predict the release of drug molecules through skin in order to supplement the in-vivo experiments for faster development/testing of drugs. The upper most layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC), offers the main resistance for permeation of actives. Most of the SC's molecular level models comprise cholesterol and phospholipids only, which is far from reality. In this study we have implemented a multiscale modeling framework to obtain the release profile of three drugs, namely, caffeine, fentanyl, and naphthol, through skin SC. We report for the first time diffusion of drugs through a realistic skin molecular model comprised of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acid. The diffusion coefficients of drugs in the SC lipid matrix were determined from multiple constrained molecular dynamics simulations. The calculated diffusion coefficients were then used in the macroscopic models to predict the release profiles of drugs through the SC. The obtained release profiles were in good agreement with available experimental data. The partition coefficient exhibits a greater effect on the release profiles. The reported multiscale modeling framework would provide insight into the delivery mechanisms of the drugs through the skin and shall act as a guiding tool in performing targeted experiments to come up with a suitable delivery system.

Effect of Size and Surface Charge of Gold Nanoparticles on their Skin Permeability: A Molecular Dynamics Study

Molecular level understanding of permeation of nanoparticles through human skin establishes the basis for development of novel transdermal drug delivery systems and design and formulation of cosmetics. Recent experiments suggest that surface coated nano-sized gold nanoparticles (AuNPs) can penetrate the rat and human skin. However, the mechanisms by which these AuNPs penetrate are not well understood. In this study, we have carried out coarse grained molecular dynamics simulations to explore the permeation of dodecanethiol coated neutral hydrophobic AuNPs of different sizes (2–5 nm) and surface charges (cationic and anionic) through the model skin lipid membrane. The results indicate that the neutral hydrophobic AuNPs disrupted the bilayer and entered in it with in ~200 ns, while charged AuNPs were adsorbed on the bilayer headgroup. The permeation free energy calculation revealed that at the head group of the bilayer, a very small barrier existed for neutral hydrophobic AuNP while a free energy minimum was observed for charged AuNPs. The permeability was maximum for neutral 2 nm gold nanoparticle (AuNP) and minimum for 3 nm cationic AuNP. The obtained results are aligned with recent experimental findings. This study would be helpful in designing customized nanoparticles for cosmetic and transdermal drug delivery application.

Molecular dynamics simulation study of translocation of fullerene C60 through skin bilayer: effect of concentration on barrier properties

The molecular level permeation mechanism of fullerenes and its derivatives through human skin could open a vast area for designing novel nanoparticles for cosmetics and drug delivery applications. In this study, we report the permeation mechanism of pristine fullerene C₆₀ for the first time through the skin lipid layer, as determined via prolonged unconstrained and constrained coarse-grained molecular dynamics simulations. The skin layer was modelled as an equimolar ratio of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. It was observed that at lower concentrations fullerenes formed small clusters (3 or 5 molecules) in the aqueous phase, which further spontaneously permeated inside the bilayer and remained dispersed inside the bilayer interior. On the other hand, at higher concentrations fullerenes aggregated in the aqueous layer, penetrated in that form and remained aggregated in the bilayer interior. Lower concentrations of fullerenes did not induce significant structural changes in the bilayer, whereas at higher concentrations undulations were observed. The permeability of fullerene molecules was found to be concentration-dependent and was explained in terms of their free energy of permeation (thermodynamics) and diffusivity (dynamics). On the basis of the aggregation and dispersion of fullerenes, an optimum fullerene concentration was determined, which could be used for drug delivery and cosmetic applications.

Large-scale human skin lipidomics by quantitative, high-throughput shotgun mass spectrometry

The lipid composition of human skin is essential for its function; however the simultaneous quantification of a wide range of stratum corneum (SC) and sebaceous lipids is not trivial. We developed and validated a quantitative high-throughput shotgun mass spectrometry-based platform for lipid analysis of tape-stripped SC skin samples. It features coverage of 16 lipid classes; total quantification to the level of individual lipid molecules; high reproducibility and high-throughput capabilities. With this method we conducted a large lipidomic survey of 268 human SC samples, where we investigated the relationship between sampling depth and lipid composition, lipidome variability in samples from 14 different sampling sites on the human body and finally, we assessed the impact of age and sex on lipidome variability in 104 healthy subjects. We found sebaceous lipids to constitute an abundant component of the SC lipidome as they diffuse into the topmost SC layers forming a gradient. Lipidomic variability with respect to sampling depth, site and subject is considerable, and mainly accredited to sebaceous lipids, while stratum corneum lipids vary less. This stresses the importance of sampling design and the role of sebaceous lipids in skin studies.

Molecular Dynamics Simulation Study of Permeation of Molecules through Skin Lipid Bilayer

Stratum Corneum (SC), the outermost layer of skin, is mainly responsible for skin's barrier function. The complex lipid matrix of SC determines these barrier properties. In this study, the lipid matrix is modeled as an equimolar mixture of ceramide (CER), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acid (FFA). The permeation of water, oxygen, ethanol, acetic acid, urea, butanol, benzene, dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), toluene, phenol, styrene, and ethylbenzene across this layer is studied using a constrained MD simulations technique. Several long constrained simulations are performed at a skin temperature of 310 K under NPT conditions. The free energy profiles and diffusion coefficients along the bilayer normal have been calculated for each molecule. Permeability coefficients are also calculated and compared with experimental data. The main resistance for the permeation of hydrophilic and hydrophobic permeants has been found to be in the interior of the lipid bilayer and near the lipid-water interface, respectively. The obtained permeability is found to be a few orders of magnitude higher than experimental values for hydrophilic molecules while for hydrophobic molecules more discrepancy was observed. Overall, the qualitative ranking is consistent with the experiments.

The physics of stratum corneum lipid membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of skin, comprises rigid corneocytes (keratin-filled dead cells) in a specialized lipid matrix. The continuous lipid matrix provides the main barrier against uncontrolled water loss and invasion of external pathogens. Unlike all other biological lipid membranes (such as intracellular organelles and plasma membranes), molecules in the SC lipid matrix show small hydrophilic groups and large variability in the length of the alkyl tails and in the numbers and positions of groups that are capable of forming hydrogen bonds. Molecular simulations provide a route for systematically probing the effects of each of these differences separately. In this article, we present the results from atomistic molecular dynamics of selected lipid bilayers and multi-layers to probe the effect of these polydispersities. We address the nature of the tail packing in the gel-like phase, the hydrogen bond network among head groups, the bending moduli expected for leaflets comprising SC lipids and the conformation of very long ceramide lipids in multi-bilayer lipid assemblies.This article is part of the themed issue 'Soft interfacial materials: from fundamentals to formulation'.

Penetration of Gold Nanoparticles through Human Skin: Unraveling Its Mechanisms at the Molecular Scale

Recent experimental studies suggest that nanosized gold nanoparticles (AuNPs) are able to penetrate into the deeper layer (epidermis and dermis) of rat and human skin. However, the mechanisms by which these AuNPs penetrate and disrupt the skin's lipid matrix are not well understood. In this study, we have used computer simulations to explore the translocation and the permeation of AuNPs through the model skin lipid membrane using both unconstrained and constrained coarse-grained molecular dynamics simulations. Each AuNP (1-6 nm) disrupted the bilayer packing and entered the interior of the bilayer rapidly (within 100 ns). It created a hydrophobic vacancy in the bilayer, which was mostly filled by skin constituents. Bigger AuNPs induced changes in the bilayer structure, and undulations were observed in the bilayer. The bilayer exhibited self-healing properties; it retained its original form once the simulation was run further after the removal of the AuNPs. Constrained simulation results showed that there was a trade-off between the kinetics and thermodynamics of AuNP permeation at a molecular scale. The combined effect of both resulted in a high permeation of small-sized AuNPs. The molecular-level information obtained through our simulations offers a very convenient method to design novel drug delivery systems and effective cosmetics.

Biochemical and Bioimaging Evidence of Cholesterol in Acquired Cholesteatoma

OBJECTIVES

To quantify the barrier sterols and image the lipid structures in the matrix of acquired cholesteatoma and compare the distribution with that found in stratum corneum from normal skin, with the goal to resolve their potential influence on cholesteatoma growth.

METHODS

High-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC) was used to achieve a quantitative biochemical determination of the sterols. The intercellular lipids were visualized by Coherent Anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) microscopy, which enables label-free imaging of the lipids in intact tissue samples.

RESULTS

The results show that the total lipid content of the cholesteatoma matrix is similar to that of stratum corneum from skin and that the cholesteatoma matrix unquestionably contains cholesterol. The cholesterol content in the cholesteatoma matrix is increased by over 30% (w/w dry weight) compared to the control. The cholesterol sulfate content is below 1% of the total lipids in both the cholesteatoma and the control. Cholesterol ester was reduced by over 30% when compared to the control.

CONCLUSIONS

The content of cholesterol in the cholesteatoma matrix is significantly different from that in stratum corneum from skin, and we confirm that the main structure of the cholesteatoma resembles very thick stratum corneum.

Preclinical and clinical characterization of the cutaneous bioavailability of the hydrophilic phase of a water-in-oil emulsion

BACKGROUND

Interactions between the stratum corneum and individual phases of an emulsion system depend on various factors, but primarily on the outer continuous phase of the system. While there is plenty of data on the lipophilic phase, only very little data exists on the actual penetration of the hydrophilic phase of water-in-oil emulsions into the stratum corneum.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Against this background, two comparable water-in-oil emulsions were preclinically and clinically investigated on healthy as well as on artificially damaged skin with regard to interactions of the hydrophilic phase. In preclinical studies, following epicutaneous application on ex vivo skin, the distribution of the hydrophilic phase was quantified using fluorescence tests and analyzed according to anatomic layers. Additionally, a randomized, controlled, investigator-blinded study investigated the effects of the preparations on the barrier function of healthy and artificially damaged skin over time.

RESULTS

The results clearly show that water substitution using a water-in-oil emulsion can only partially be attained by the addition of hygroscopic substances (e. g. urea). These effects may primarily be explained by the occlusive properties of the lipophilic phase.

CONCLUSIONS

This, the use of water-in-oil emulsions may in particular be recommended for chronic barrier impairment, as long-lasting effects are not to be expected in acutely damaged skin.

Skin diseases associated with the depletion of stratum corneum lipids and stratum corneum lipid substitution therapy

The skin is the largest organ of the body, whose main function is to protect the body against the loss of physiologically important components as well as harmful environmental insults. From the inside to the outside, the skin comprises three major structural layers: the hypodermis, the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis contains four different sublayers, the stratum corneum (SC), stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale, where the barrier function of the skin mainly lies in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the SC. The SC contains corneocytes that are embedded in a lipid matrix existing in the form of lipid bilayers. The lipid bilayers are formed mainly from ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, constitute the only continuous pathway across the SC and are responsible for the barrier function of the skin. However, the depletion or disturbance of SC lipids in the SC leads to a perturbation of the barrier function of the skin, and, conversely, several skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are associated with the depletion of these SC lipids. Therefore, it is of paramount importance to understand the interrelationship between the depletion of SC lipids and skin diseases as well as factors that affect the composition and organization of SC lipids in order to assess the potential benefit of a direct replacement of the missing SC lipids as a means of treating affected, aged or diseased skin.

Canine epidermal lipid sampling by skin scrub revealed variations between different body sites and normal and atopic dogs

BACKGROUND

Previously, we evaluated a minimally invasive epidermal lipid sampling method called skin scrub, which achieved reproducible and comparable results to skin scraping. The present study aimed at investigating regional variations in canine epidermal lipid composition using the skin scrub technique and its suitability for collecting skin lipids in dogs suffering from certain skin diseases. Eight different body sites (5 highly and 3 lowly predisposed for atopic lesions) were sampled by skin scrub in 8 control dogs with normal skin. Additionally, lesional and non-lesional skin was sampled from 12 atopic dogs and 4 dogs with other skin diseases by skin scrub. Lipid fractions were separated by high performance thin layer chromatography and analysed densitometrically.

RESULTS

No significant differences in total lipid content were found among the body sites tested in the control dogs. However, the pinna, lip and caudal back contained significantly lower concentrations of ceramides, whereas the palmar metacarpus and the axillary region contained significantly higher amounts of ceramides and cholesterol than most other body sites. The amount of total lipids and ceramides including all ceramide classes were significantly lower in both lesional and non-lesional skin of atopic dogs compared to normal skin, with the reduction being more pronounced in lesional skin. The sampling by skin scrub was relatively painless and caused only slight erythema at the sampled areas but no oedema. Histological examinations of skin biopsies at 2 skin scrubbed areas revealed a potential lipid extraction from the transition zone between stratum corneum and granulosum.

CONCLUSIONS

The present study revealed regional variations in the epidermal lipid and ceramide composition in dogs without skin abnormalities but no connection between lipid composition and predilection sites for canine atopic dermatitis lesions. The skin scrub technique proved to be a practicable sampling method for canine epidermal lipids, revealed satisfying results regarding alterations of skin lipid composition in canine atopic dermatitis and might be suitable for epidermal lipid investigations of further canine skin diseases. Although the ceramide composition should be unaffected by the deeper lipid sampling of skin scrub compared to other sampling methods, further studies are required to determine methodological differences.

Mass Spectrometry-based Lipidomics and Its Application to Biomedical Research

Lipidomics, a branch of metabolomics, is the large-scale study of pathways and networks of all cellular lipids in biological systems such as cells, tissues or organisms. The recent advance in mass spectrometry technologies have enabled more comprehensive lipid profiling in the biological samples. In this review, we compared four representative lipid profiling technoligies including GC-MS, LC-MS, direct infusion-MS and imaging-MS. We also summarized representative lipid database, and further discussed the applications of lipidomics to the diagnostics of various diseases such as diabetes, obesity, hypertension, and Alzheimer diseases.

Characteristic differences in barrier and hygroscopic properties between normal and cosmetic dry skin. I. Enhanced barrier analysis with sequential tape-stripping

OBJECTIVE

Cosmetic dry skin often has a lower hydration level but a similar apparent barrier function, as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL), than that of the normal skin. To investigate the intrinsic difference in barrier property and moisture-holding ability between the cosmetic dry and normal skin, we developed a new clinical and data analysis procedure based on sequential tape-stripping with TEWL measurement, coupled with chemical analysis for protein and natural moisturizing factors (NMF) in the stratum corneum.

METHODS

A clinical study consisting of 64 healthy Caucasian female subjects with normal and cosmetic dry skin was conducted according to our clinical and data collection protocols. After the baseline visual dryness assessment, 20 tape-strips were placed and removed on each test site using D-Squame tapes. TEWL was measured at baseline and after the 5th, 10th, 15th and 20th tape-strips. All tapes were analysed for protein mass via chemical extraction and the Pierce BCA protein assay, as well as using an infrared densitometry device SquameScan 850A. The stratum corneum thickness and barrier quality (water transport resistance per thickness of the stratum corneum) were decoupled from the apparent barrier function using the TEWL and protein data.

RESULTS

A linear relationship between 1/TEWL and cumulative protein removal was observed for both normal and cosmetic dry skin. However, the slope of the linear relation was significantly steeper for normal skin, and significantly more protein was removed from cosmetic dry skin. The results showed that on average, the barrier quality of the stratum corneum of the normal skin is about 40% higher than that of the dry skin, whereas the stratum corneum of the dry skin is about 30% thicker than that of the normal skin. In addition, the amount of SC removal in sequential tape-stripping is generally non-uniform.

CONCLUSION

Our results demonstrated that there are characteristic differences in the barrier property between normal and cosmetic dry skin. In comparison to the normal skin, the stratum corneum of the cosmetic dry skin is considerably thicker, however, with a lower barrier quality. The results also showed that the amount of the SC removal in sequential tape-stripping is generally non-uniform. Therefore, the number of tape strips is not a good indicator for the tape-stripping depth.

Raman spectroscopy: in vivo quick response code of skin physiological status

Dermatologists need to combine different clinically relevant characteristics for a better understanding of skin health. These characteristics are usually measured by different techniques, and some of them are highly time consuming. Therefore, a predicting model based on Raman spectroscopy and partial least square (PLS) regression was developed as a rapid multiparametric method. The Raman spectra collected from the five uppermost micrometers of 11 healthy volunteers were fitted to different skin characteristics measured by independent appropriate methods (transepidermal water loss, hydration, pH, relative amount of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol). For each parameter, the obtained PLS model presented correlation coefficients higher than R2=0.9. This model enables us to obtain all the aforementioned parameters directly from the unique Raman signature. In addition to that, in-depth Raman analyses down to 20 μm showed different balances between partially bound water and unbound water with depth. In parallel, the increase of depth was followed by an unfolding process of the proteins. The combinations of all these information led to a multiparametric investigation, which better characterizes the skin status. Raman signal can thus be used as a quick response code (QR code). This could help dermatologic diagnosis of physiological variations and presents a possible extension to pathological characterization.

Combined LC/MS-platform for analysis of all major stratum corneum lipids, and the profiling of skin substitutes

Ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs) are the main lipid classes in human stratum corneum (SC, outermost skin layer), but no studies report on the detailed analysis of these classes in a single platform. The primary aims of this study were to 1) develop an LC/MS method for (semi-)quantitative analysis of all main lipid classes present in human SC; and 2) use this method to study in detail the lipid profiles of human skin substitutes and compare them to human SC lipids. By applying two injections of 10μl, the developed method detects all major SC lipids using RPLC and negative ion mode APCI-MS for detection of FFAs, and NPLC using positive ion mode APCI-MS to analyze CERs and cholesterol. Validation showed this lipid platform to be robust, reproducible, sensitive, and fast. The method was successfully applied on ex vivo human SC, human SC obtained from tape strips and human skin substitutes (porcine SC and human skin equivalents). In conjunction with FFA profiles, clear differences in CER profiles were observed between these different SC sources. Human skin equivalents more closely mimic the lipid composition of human stratum corneum than porcine skin does, although noticeable differences are still present. These differences gave biologically relevant information on some of the enzymes that are probably involved in SC lipid processing. For future research, this provides an excellent method for (semi-)quantitative, 'high-throughput' profiling of SC lipids and can be used to advance the understanding of skin lipids and the biological processes involved.

Lamellar and inverse micellar structures of skin lipids: effect of templating

The outermost layer of skin comprises rigid nonviable cells (corneocytes) in a layered lipid matrix. Using atomistic simulations we find that the equilibrium phase of the skin lipids is inverse micellar. A model of the corneocyte is used to demonstrate that lamellar layering is induced by the patterned corneocyte wall. The inverse micellar phase is consistent with in vivo observations in regions where corneocyte walls are well separated (lacunar spaces) and in the inner layers of skin, and suggests a functional role in the lipid synthesis pathway in vivo.

Comparison of three different sampling methods for canine skin lipids

BACKGROUND

Epidermal lipids are of major interest in dermatological research, especially in canine atopic dermatitis. Owing to the existence of several sampling methods, the interpretation of study results is often complicated.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to compare three different sampling methods and to establish a minimally invasive method for collecting canine epidermal lipids.

ANIMALS AND METHODS

Skin samples from five dogs with no obvious skin abnormalities were taken from the caudal back and the inguinal region postmortem. Samples consisted of heat-separated epidermis of three skin biopsies, three scrapes and three skin scrubs. Lipids were analysed by high-performance thin-layer chromatography; the resulting bands were identified by using corresponding standards, retardation factors and mass spectrometry. The influences of the sampling method, the body site and the ceramide standards were investigated.

RESULTS

Between body sites, significant differences were found for cholesterol sulphate, cholesteryl esters and triglycerides. Significant differences between sampling methods were detected for all lipid fractions except for cholesterol sulphate and glucosylceramides within the lipid profile, and for at least four ceramide classes within the ceramide profile. The most obvious discrepancies were found between heat-separated epidermis and skin scrub. The reproducibility was high for scraping and skin scrub, but was lowest for heat-separated epidermis. Furthermore, this study revealed a marked influence of ceramide standards on the results regarding the ceramide profile.

CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL IMPORTANCE

Scraping and skin scrub are comparably suitable methods for skin lipid sampling, whereas the analysis of heat-separated epidermis may not be the method of first choice.

Recent advances in predicting skin permeability of hydrophilic solutes

Understanding the permeation of hydrophilic molecules is of relevance to many applications including transdermal drug delivery, skin care as well as risk assessment of occupational, environmental, or consumer exposure. This paper reviews recent advances in modeling skin permeability of hydrophilic solutes, including quantitative structure-permeability relationships (QSPR) and mechanistic models. A dataset of measured human skin permeability of hydrophilic and low hydrophobic solutes has been compiled. Generally statistically derived QSPR models under-estimate skin permeability of hydrophilic solutes. On the other hand, including additional aqueous pathway is necessary for mechanistic models to improve the prediction of skin permeability of hydrophilic solutes, especially for highly hydrophilic solutes. A consensus yet has to be reached as to how the aqueous pathway should be modeled. Nevertheless it is shown that the contribution of aqueous pathway can constitute to more than 95% of the overall skin permeability. Finally, future prospects and needs in improving the prediction of skin permeability of hydrophilic solutes are discussed.

Electrical impedance spectroscopy and the diagnostic accuracy for malignant melanoma

BACKGROUND

The accuracy of diagnosis of skin cancer and especially of early malignant melanoma is most important to reduce its morbidity and mortality. Previous pilot studies using electrical impedance measurements indicate statistically significant accuracies for the detection of skin cancer.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study is to investigate the accuracy of electrical impedance spectra to distinguish between malignant melanoma and benign skin lesions using an automated classification algorithm.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Electrical impedance spectra were measured in a multi-centre study at 12 clinics around Europe. Data from 285 histologically analysed lesions were used to train an algorithm to sort out lesions for automatic detection of melanoma. Another data cohort of 210 blinded lesions (148 various benign lesions and 62 malignant melanomas where 38 being from Breslow thickness ≤1 mm) from 183 patients was thereafter used to estimate the accuracy of the technique.

RESULTS

Observed sensitivity to malignant melanoma is 95% (59/62) and observed specificity 49% (72/148).

CONCLUSIONS

The results suggest that electrical impedance spectra can distinguish between malignant melanoma and benign skin lesions. Although it is indicated that the accuracy of the device is clinically promising, the overall performance, and the sensitivity to thin malignant melanomas, must be improved and thoroughly validated before the instrument can be used as a routine stand-alone diagnostic decision support tool. The technique is under revision to further improve the reproducibility, specificity and sensitivity.