Possible involvement of gelatinases in basement membrane damage and wrinkle formation in chronically ultraviolet B-exposed hairless mouse

Exploring mechanisms of skin aging: insights for clinical treatment

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and is made up of various cells and structures. Over time, the skin will age, which is not only influenced by internal factors, but also by external environmental factors, especially ultraviolet radiation. Aging causes immune system weakening in the elderly, which makes them more susceptible to dermatosis, such as type 2 inflammatory mediated pruritus. The immune response in this condition is marked by senescent cells consistently releasing low amounts of pro-inflammatory cytokines through a senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP). This continuous inflammation may accelerate immune system aging and establish a connection between immune aging and type 2 inflammatory skin diseases. In addition, two chronic pigmentation disorders, vitiligo and chloasma, are also associated with skin aging. Aged cells escape the immune system and accumulate in tissues, forming a microenvironment that promotes cancer. At the same time, "photoaging" caused by excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation is also an important cause of skin cancer. This manuscript describes the possible links between skin aging and type 2 inflammation, chronic pigmentation disorders, and skin cancer and suggests some treatment options.

Human Serum Albumin/Selenium Complex Nanoparticles Protect the Skin from Photoaging Injury

Introduction

Photoaging-induced skin damage leads to appearance issues and dermatoma. Selenium nanoparticles (SeNPs) possess high antioxidant properties but are prone to inactivation. In this study, human serum albumin/SeNPs (HSA-SeNPs) were synthesized for enhanced stability.

Methods

HSA-SeNPs were prepared by self-assembling denatured human serum albumin and inorganic selenite. The cytotoxicity of HSA-SeNPs was assessed using the MTT method. Cell survival and proliferation rates were tested to observe the protective effect of HSA-SeNPs on human skin keratinocytes against photoaging. Simultaneously, ICR mice were used for animal experiments. H&E and Masson trichromatic staining were employed to observe morphological changes in skin structure and collagen fiber disorders after UVB irradiation. Quantitative RT-PCR was utilized to measure changes in mRNA expression levels of factors related to collagen metabolism, inflammation, oxidative stress regulation, and senescence markers.

Results

The HSA-SeNPs group exhibited significantly higher survival and proliferation rates of UVB-irradiated keratinocytes than the control group. Following UVB irradiation, the back skin of ICR mice displayed severe sunburn with disrupted collagen fibers. However, HSA-SeNPs demonstrated superior efficacy in alleviating these symptoms compared to SeNPs alone. In a UVB-irradiated mice model, mRNA expression of collagen type I and III was dysregulated while MMP1, inflammatory factors, and p21 mRNA expression were upregulated; concurrently Nrf2 and Gpx1 mRNA expression were downregulated. In contrast, HSA-SeNPs maintained the mRNA expression of those factors to be stable In addition, the level of SOD decreased, and MDA elevated significantly in the skin after UVB irradiation, but no significant differences in SOD and MDA levels between the HSA-SeNPs group with UVB irradiation and the UVB-free untreated group.

Discussion

HSA-SeNPs have more anti-photoaging effects on the skin than SeNPs, including the protective effects on skin cell proliferation, cell survival, and structure under photoaging conditions. HSA-SeNPs can be used to protect skin from photoaging and repair skin injury caused by UVB exposure.

Different therapeutic approaches in melasma: advances and limitations

Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation skin disorder that is more common in the female gender. Although melasma is a multifactorial skin disorder, however, sun-exposure and genetic predisposition are considered as the main etiologic factors in melasma occurrence. Although numerous topical and systemic therapeutic agents and also non-pharmacologic procedural treatments have been considered in melasma management, however, the commonly available therapeutic options have several limitations including the lack of sufficient clinical effectiveness, risk of relapse, and high rate of unwanted adverse drug reactions. Recruitment of nanotechnology for topical drug delivery in melasma management can lead to enhanced skin penetration, targeted drug delivery to the site of action, longer deposition at the targeted area, and limit systemic absorption and therefore systemic availability and adverse drug reactions. In the current review, first of all, the etiology, pathophysiology, and severity classification of melasma have been considered. Then, various pharmacologic and procedural therapeutic options in melasma treatment have been discussed. Afterward, the usage of various types of nanoparticles for the purpose of topical drug delivery for melasma management was considered. In the end, numerous clinical studies and controlled clinical trials on the assessment of the effectiveness of these novel topical formulations in melasma management are summarized.

Pulsed electrical stimulation and amino acid derivatives promote collagen gene expression in human dermal fibroblasts

Several collagen types are important for maintaining skin structure and function. Previous reports show that l-hydroxyproline (Hyp), N-acetyl-l-hydroxyproline (AHyp), and l-alanyl-l-glutamine (Aln-Gln) are biological active substances with collagen synthesis-promoting effects. In this study, we combined the promotive effects of pulsed electrical stimulation (PES) with three amino acid derivatives in human dermal fibroblasts. Fibroblasts were exposed to PES with a 4,800 Hz pulse frequency and a voltage at 1 or 5 V for 15 min. The gene expression of type I and III collagen (fibrillar collagen), type IV and VII collagen (basement membrane collagen and anchoring fibril collagen) were measured by RT-PCR 48 h after PES. PES alone promoted the expression of COL1A1 and COL3A1 at 5 V but did not alter that of COL4A1 and COL7A1. Each AAD and the AAD mixture promoted the expression of COL4A1 and COL7A1 but either repressed, or did not alter, that of COL1A1 and COL3A1. Compared to treatment with each AAD, PES at 5 V with Hyp promoted the expression of COL1A1 and COL3A1, enhanced COL3A1 expression with AHyp, and stimulated COL3A1 expression with Aln-Gln, while COL4A1 and COL7A1 expressions were not affected. PES and the AAD mixture significantly promoted COL4A1 expression in a voltage-dependent manner, and COL1A1 and COL3A1 demonstrated a similar but nonsignificant trend, whereas COL7A1 expression was not affected. The combination of PES with each AAD or the AAD mixture may improve skin structure and function by increasing the expression of basement membrane collagen and dermal fibrillar collagen.

Collagen study advances for photoaging skin

BACKGROUND

Collagen dominates the skin's extracellular matrix (ECM). Type I collagen comprises 80%-90% of the skin's collagen, followed by type III (8%-12%) and type V (5%). Reactive oxygen species, matrix metalloproteinases, and collagen degradation all increase during photoaging, which disrupts the ECM's dynamic balance and lowers the amount of total collagen in the body. In recent years, domestic and foreign researchers have conducted multidimensional and multifaceted studies on collagen and skin photoaging. Collagen and the peptides that are derivates of it are currently being used more and more in biomedicine and medical esthetics.

OBJECTIVE

Offering new suggestions for both the avoidance and remedy of photoaging.

METHODS

This article reviews collagen and its potential connection to skin photoaging, illustrates the effects of collagen and peptide supplementation derivatives on photoaged skin, and briefly describes other compounds that can also be used to fight photoaging by increasing collagen synthesis in the skin.

RESULT

Both internal and external aging are inevitable, and as the main component of extracellular matrix, collagen plays a variety of functions in maintaining skin structure and fighting skin aging, and its role in photoaging is undeniable. Ultraviolet radiation can induce increased fragmentation and degradation of cutaneous collagen, while conversely, supplementation with collagen can effectively counteract photodamage-induced skin impairment.

CONCLUSION

Collagen and its derived peptides are indispensable in photoaging skin, holding promising prospects for applications in skin aging.

Nutritional Supplements for Skin Health-A Review of What Should Be Chosen and Why

Supplementation of micronutrients is considered to be crucial in the reinforcement of the skin's barrier. In this paper, 14 nutritional compounds commonly used in food or pharmaceutic industries were analyzed in terms of influencing skin conditions. The major objective of this paper was to provide a narrative review of the available literature regarding several chosen compounds that are currently widely recommended as supplements that aim to maintain proper and healthy skin conditions. We conducted a review of the literature from PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science until September 2023 without any other restrictions regarding the year of the publication. Ultimately, we reviewed 238 articles, including them in this review. Each of the reviewed compounds, including vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, curcumin, chlorella, Omega-3, biotin,Ppolypodium leucotomos, Simmondsia chinesis, gamma oryzanol, olive leaf extract, spirulina, and astaxanthin, was observed to present some possible effects with promising benefits for a skin condition, i.e., photoprotective radiation. Adding them to the diet or daily routine might have a positive influence on some skin inflammatory diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. Further, UV radiation protection facilitated by some supplements and their impact on human cells might be helpful during chemotherapy or in preventing melanoma development. Further research is needed because of the lack of clear consensus regarding the doses of the described compounds that could provide desirable effects on the skin.

The effect of oral supplements containing collagen peptides rich in X-Hyp or X-Hyp-Gly compared with normal collagen hydrolysates on skin elasticity and collagen holes: a randomised double-blind clinical study

Collagen peptides enriched with X-Hyp or X-Hyp-Gly have demonstrated resistance to digestive and systemic enzymes, suggesting their potential for improved absorption efficiency and enhancement of skin properties. This study aimed to evaluate the effects of oral supplementation with collagen peptides rich in X-Hyp or X-Hyp-Gly on skin properties in a clinical setting. A double-blind, randomized study was conducted on 30 healthy adult participants aged between 22 and 30. Normal collagen hydrolysates were used as the control, and each participant received a daily powdered drink containing either 5 grams of collagen peptides or hydrolysates (n = 15 in each group) for a period of 42 days. Skin elasticity was evaluated using the Cutometer, revealing a significant increase in the intervention group's skin elasticity (R2 values: 0.86 to 0.92, P < 0.001; R7 values: 0.77 to 0.84, P < 0.001). Collagen synthesis in the dermis was assessed using the SIAscope, demonstrating a substantial increase of 30.67 in the intervention group, while the control group exhibited a marginal increase of 0.49. In vitro digestion and cellular transport models were employed to evaluate the absorption and transport of Hyp-containing collagen peptides. LC-MS analysis demonstrated a significantly higher proportion of small peptide oligomers below 500 Da in the CP product compared to the control group (approximately 70% vs. 50%) after digestion. Additionally, the CP product exhibited a greater uptake of peptides (27%) compared to the control group (21%). These findings highlight the potential use of Hyp-containing collagen peptides with a low molecular weight in food supplements for improving skin health.

Effects of cadmium and diethylhexyl phthalate on skin microbiota of Rana chinensis tadpoles

Skin microbiotas play a crucial role in the health, homeostasis, and immune function of amphibians. The contaminants in water could affect the structure and composition of microbial communities. The effects of coexisting pollutants on frogs cannot be adequately explained by a single exposure due to the coexistence of Cd and DEHP in the environment. Following exposure to Cd and/or DEHP, we examined the histological characteristics of Rana chensinensis tadpoles. We also used the 16S rRNA gene sequencing technique to assess the relative abundance of skin microbial communities among tadpoles from each treatment group. Our findings indicate that R. chensinensis' skin experienced some degree of injury due to exposure to Cd and DEHP, which led to the imbalance of their skin microbial community homeostasis and thus interfered with the normal trial status of the host. That may eventually lead to the decline of the amphibian population.

The Safety and Efficacy of 1-Monoeicosapentaenoin Isolated from the Trebouxiophyceae Micractinium on Anti-Wrinkle: A Split-Face Randomized, Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

The skin aging process is governed by intrinsic and extrinsic factors causing skin wrinkles, sagging, and loosening. The 1-monoeicosapentaenoin (1-MEST) is a component isolated from Micractinium, a genus of microalgae (Chlorophyta, Trebouxiophyceae). However, the anti-wrinkle effects of 1-MEST are not yet known. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle effects of 1-MEST in vitro and in clinical trials. The cytotoxicity of 1-MEST was investigated in vitro using the MTS assay in human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs). Expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-9 was determined by ELISA in HEKs irradiated with UVB after treatment with 1-MEST. A split-face randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted to evaluate the safety and efficacy of 1-MEST. The study evaluated wrinkle parameters and visual assessment, self-efficacy and usability questionnaires, and adverse events. The study showed that the 1-MEST was not cytotoxic in HEKs, suppressed MMP-1 secretion and MMP-9 protein expression in HEKs irradiated with UVB. The wrinkle parameters and mean visual assessment score were significantly decreased in the test group after 12 weeks and differed from the control group. There were no significant differences in efficacy and usability. Adverse effects were also not observed. The 1-MEST showed anti-wrinkle properties to slow down or prevent skin aging.

Bioassay-Guided Characterization, Antioxidant, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Photoaging Activities of Pueraria thunbergiana L. Leaf Extracts in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (HaCaT) Cells

Although the roots and flowers of P. thunbergiana are known to have various physiologically active effects, studies on the anti-melanin production and anti-photoaging effects of its leaf extracts and cellular mechanisms are still lacking. In this study, we evaluated the possibility of using Pueraria thunbergiana leaves as a natural material for skin whitening and anti-aging-related functional cosmetics. The 30% ethyl alcohol (EtOH) extract from P. thunbergiana leaves was fractionated using n-hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), butanol, and aqueous solution to measure their whitening, and anti-aging effects. The EtOAc fraction contained a high content of phenolic and flavonoids and showed higher 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) radical scavenging activities than the other fractions. It was also confirmed that the EtOAc fraction markedly inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In addition, the EtOAc fraction showed a protective effect against ultraviolet B (UVB) in HaCaT cells and increased the collagen synthesis that was decreased due to UVB exposure. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) activity and MMP-1 protein expression were reduced in human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells. These results indicate that the EtOAc fraction has superior antioxidant activity, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-photoaging effects compared to the other fractions. Therefore, in this study, we confirmed the potential of P. thunbergiana leaf extract as a functional cosmetic ingredient, and it can be used as basic data for the physiological activity of P. thunbergiana leaf extracts.

Mechanisms of ultraviolet-induced melasma formation: A review

Melasma, a pigmentation disorder, commonly occurs in exposed skin areas and can be attributed to several factors. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the primary factor that induces and aggravates melasma. Considering gene expression, exposed skin areas experience abnormal gene expression, involving melanin metabolism, oxidative stress, impaired skin barrier function, and abnormal composition of nerve factors. From a histological perspective, UVR can cause basement membrane collapse, melanocyte sinking, and disorders of skin lipid metabolism. Emerging therapies have focused on these pathological alterations in melasma, including platelet-rich plasma, mesotherapy, and phytochemicals. Understanding the role of UVR in the development of melasma can facilitate early prevention and highlight the future direction of melasma treatment.

Biomarkers of Tretinoin Precursors and Tretinoin Efficacy in Patients With Moderate to Severe Facial Photodamage: A Randomized Clinical Trial

Importance

Topical formulations of tretinoin precursors (retinol and its ester derivatives) are widely available over the counter and may offer similar clinical benefits to those of tretinoin for treatment of photoaging. However, which of the many purported molecular effects of retinoids most strongly drives clinical improvements in tretinoin-treated skin remains unclear.

Objectives

To evaluate the clinical efficacy of topical tretinoin precursors (TTP) vs tretinoin (RA) in treating moderate to severe facial photodamage and to identify potential biomarkers that correlate with clinical efficacy.

Design, Setting, and Participants

This randomized, double-blind, single-center, parallel-arm study of 24 patients with moderate to severe facial photodamage was conducted at an academic referral center from November 2010 to December 2011, with data analysis performed from January 2012 to December 2021.

Interventions

Daily topical application of 0.02% RA or 1.1% TTP formulation containing retinol, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate for 24 weeks.

Main Outcomes and Measures

Photoaging and tolerability were assessed by dermatologist evaluations and patient-reported outcomes. Target gene expression was assessed by real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction of biopsied tissue from treated areas.

Results

A total of 20 White women were ultimately analyzed (9 randomized to TTP, 11 randomized to RA). At week 24, there was no significant difference in Griffiths photoaging scores among patients receiving TTP vs RA (median, 4 vs 5) (TTP - RA difference: -1; 95% CI, -2 to 1; P = .27). Treatment with TTP was associated with erythema 6 times less frequently than RA (11% vs 64%) (TTP - RA difference: -0.53; 95% CI, -0.88 to -0.17; P = .01). Target gene analysis showed significant CRABP2 messenger RNA (mRNA) induction (confirming retinoic acid receptor signaling) but no significant changes in procollagen I or MMP1/3/9 mRNA in TTP-treated samples. Instead, MMP2 mRNA, which encodes a type IV collagenase, was significantly reduced in TTP-treated samples (week 24 - baseline mRNA difference: -5; 96% CI, -33 to 1.6; P = .02), and changes in MMP2 were strongly correlated with changes in fine wrinkles (r = 0.54; 95% CI, 0.12 to 0.80; P = .01). Interestingly, patients with severe baseline wrinkles exhibited greater improvements (r = -0.74; 95% CI, -0.89 to -0.43; P < .001). This trend was mirrored in MMP2 mRNA, with initial expression strongly predicting subsequent changes (r = -0.78; 95% CI, -0.89 to -0.43; P < .001).

Conclusions and Relevance

In this randomized clinical trial, there was no significant difference in efficacy between this particular formulation of TTP and tretinoin 0.02%. However, the results of these mechanistic studies highlight MMP2 as a possible mediator of retinoid efficacy in photoaging.

Trial Registration

ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier: NCT01283464.

The Potential Anti-Photoaging Effect of Photodynamic Therapy Using Chlorin e6-Curcumin Conjugate in UVB-Irradiated Fibroblasts and Hairless Mice

Photodynamic therapy (PDT) has been used to treat cancers and non-malignant skin diseases. In this study, a chlorin e6–curcumin conjugate (Ce6-PEG-Cur), a combination of chlorin e6 (Ce6) and curcumin via a PEG linker, was used as a photosensitizer. The in vitro and in vivo effects of PDT using Ce6-PEG-Cur were analyzed in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and hairless mice. The UVB-induced expression of MMPs was reduced in Hs68 fibroblast cells, and procollagen type Ⅰ expression was enhanced by Ce6-PEG-Cur-mediated PDT on a Western blotting gel. Moreover, UVB-induced collagen levels were restored upon application of Ce6-PEG-Cur-mediated PDT. Ce6-PEG-Cur-mediated PDT inhibited the expression of phosphorylated p38 in the MAPK signaling pathway, and it reduced the expression of phosphorylated NF-κB. In animal models, Ce6-PEG-Cur-mediated PDT inhibited the expression of MMPs, whereas procollagen type Ⅰ levels were enhanced in the dorsal skin of UVB-irradiated mice. Moreover, UVB-induced dorsal roughness was significantly reduced following Ce6-PEG-Cur-mediated PDT treatment. H&E staining and Masson’s trichrome staining showed that the thickness of the epidermal region was reduced, and the density of collagen fibers increased. Taken together, Ce6-PEG-Cur-mediated PDT might delay and improve skin photoaging by ultraviolet light, suggesting its potential for use as a more effective photo-aging treatment.

Theragra chalcogramma Hydrolysates, Rich in Gly-Leu-Pro-Ser-Tyr-Thr, Exerts Anti-Photoaging Potential via Targeting MAPK and NF-κB Pathways in SD Rats

Previous studies have revealed that excessive exposure to UV irradiation is the main cause of skin photoaging and the signaling pathways of MAPK and NF-κB are involved in this progression. The present study aims to investigate the anti-photoaging effects of low molecular weight hydrolysates from Theragra chalcogramma (TCH) and to clarify the underlying mechanism. The degradation of mechanical barrier functions in photoaged skin was substantially ameliorated after TCH administration; meanwhile, TCH significantly elevated the antioxidant capacity and suppressed the over-production of inflammatory cytokine IL-1β. Moreover, the histopathological deteriorations such as epidermal hyperplasia and dermal loss were significantly alleviated, along with the increase in procollagen type I content and decrease in MMP-1 activity (p < 0.05). Furthermore, TCH effectively blocked the MAPK and NF-κB signaling pathways through inhibition of the phosphorylation of p38, JNK, ERK, iκB, and p65 proteins. Collectively, these data indicate that TCH has potential as a novel ingredient for the development of anti-photoaging foods.

Theragra chalcogramma Hydrolysate, Rich in Gly-Leu-Pro-Ser-Tyr-Thr, Alleviates Photoaging via Modulating Deposition of Collagen Fibers and Restoration of Extracellular Components Matrix in SD Rats

Excessive exposure of the skin to ultraviolet irradiation induces skin photoaging, which seriously deteriorates the barrier functions of skin tissue, and even causes skin damages and diseases. Recently, dietary supplements from marine sources have been found to be useful in modulating skin functions and can be used to alleviate photoaging. Herein, the low-molecular-weight hydrolysates with a photoaging-protection effect were prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis from Theragra chalcogramma (TCH), and the potential mechanism were subsequently explored. The results revealed that TCH desirably improved the barrier functions of photoaged skin and stimulated the deposition of ECM components Col I, Hyp, and HA in the dermal layer. Histologically, TCH reduced the epidermal hyperplasia and restored the impaired architectures in a dose-dependent manner. Meanwhile, the activity of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in photoaging skin was inhibited, and the expression levels of elastin and fibrillin-1 were elevated accordingly after TCH administration, and the significant improvements were observed at high-dose level (p < 0.05). Taken together, the efficacy of TCH against skin photoaging is highly associated with the regulation on ECM metabolism and the repairing of damaged mechanical structure.

UVB-mediated DNA damage induces matrix metalloproteinases to promote photoaging in an AhR- and SP1-dependent manner

It is currently thought that UVB radiation drives photoaging of the skin primarily by generating ROS. In this model, ROS purportedly activates activator protein-1 to upregulate MMPs 1, 3, and 9, which then degrade collagen and other extracellular matrix components to produce wrinkles. However, these MMPs are expressed at relatively low levels and correlate poorly with wrinkles, suggesting that another mechanism distinct from ROS and MMP1/3/9 may be more directly associated with photoaging. Here we show that MMP2, which degrades type IV collagen, is abundantly expressed in human skin, increases with age in sun-exposed skin, and correlates robustly with aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), a transcription factor directly activated by UV-generated photometabolites. Through mechanistic studies with HaCaT human immortalized keratinocytes, we found that AhR, specificity protein 1 (SP1), and other pathways associated with DNA damage are required for the induction of both MMP2 and MMP11 (another MMP implicated in photoaging), but not MMP1/3. Last, we found that topical treatment with AhR antagonists vitamin B₁₂ and folic acid ameliorated UVB-induced wrinkle formation in mice while dampening MMP2 expression in the skin. These results directly implicate DNA damage in photoaging and reveal AhR as a potential target for preventing wrinkles.

Improvement of Damage in Human Dermal Fibroblasts by 3,5,7-Trimethoxyflavone from Black Ginger (Kaempferia parviflora)

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are generated during intrinsic (chronological aging) and extrinsic (photoaging) skin aging. Therefore, antioxidants that inhibit ROS production may be involved in delaying skin aging. In this study, we investigated the potential effects of compounds isolated from black ginger, Kaempferia parviflora, a traditional medicinal plant, on normal human dermal fibroblasts in the context of inflammation and oxidative stress. The isolated compounds were structurally characterized as 5-hydroxy-7-methoxyflavone (1), 3,7-dimethoxy-5-hydroxyflavone (2), 5-hydroxy-3,7,3,4-tetramethoxyflavone (3), 7,4-dimethylapigenin (4), 3,7,4-trimethylkaempferol (5), and 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (6), using nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) and liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC/MS) analyses. These flavonoids were first evaluated for their ability to suppress extracellular matrix degradation in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Of these, 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (6) significantly inhibited the tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α-induced high expression and secretion of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 by cells. We further found that 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone suppressed the excessive increase in ROS, mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), Akt, and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2)and increased heme oxygenase (HO)-1 expression. The expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines, including interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, and IL-8, was also suppressed by 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (6). Taken together, our results indicate that 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (6) isolated from K. parviflora is a potential candidate for ameliorating skin damage.

Dermal Pathology in Melasma: An Update Review

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a complex and multipathophysiological condition that is challenging to treat. The roles of each element in the dermis were highlighted in this recent year due to targeting it with emerging therapies. Although some studies have demonstrated abnormal findings in the dermis of melasma lesions, there are no integrated data regarding these findings.

PURPOSE

This article aims to discuss each finding in the dermis of melasma lesions and to provide some ideas about treatment options.

METHODS

An Internet search was completed using the MEDLINE, Embase, Scopus, and Google Scholar databases for relevant literature through June 2021 and reference lists of respective articles. Only the articles published in English language were included.

RESULTS

Several studies have focused on the dermal changes in melasma. Common findings included basement membrane disruption, pendulous melanocytes, marked solar elastosis, increased melanophages, increased mast cells, and neovascularization. In addition, each of them had the specified mechanism that may relate with the others.

CONCLUSION

Several changes in the dermis of melasma lesion may be connected with pathological changes in the epidermis. This may serve as a potential target treatment for melasma, which requires a multimodal approach.

Attenuation of UV-induced skin photoaging in rats by walnut protein hydrolysates is linked to the modulation of MAPK/AP-1 and TGF-β/Smad signaling pathways

There is growing evidence that prevention of skin photoaging by oral administration of food-derived proteins hydrolysates is intricately linked to its alleviation against oxidative stress through modulation of the signaling pathway. Previously, walnut protein hydrolysates (WPHs) were prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis by our group and exhibited excellent anti-photoaging effect through regulation of extracellular matrix metabolism and the NF-κB signaling pathway. However, its response to oxidative stress and cascade mechanism remain unknown. In the present study, Sprague-Dawley rats were exposed periodically to UV irradiation and orally administered with WPHs to further examine the effects of WPHs on the redox state, MAPK/AP-1 and TGF-β/Smad signaling pathways, type I procollagen synthesis, and histopathological impairments in photoaging skin. Intervention with WPHs for 18 weeks significantly alleviated the photoaging morphology, enhanced the antioxidant components, and downregulated the phosphorylation levels of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and C-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK and p38 proteins) in photoaging tissues, while significant alterations on the gene expression levels of ERK, JNK and p38 were not observed. Meanwhile, WPHs significantly activated the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway and type I procollagen production. Furthermore, histopathological analysis illustrated that WPHs predominately attenuated epidermal hyperplasia, reduced inflammatory filtration, and promoted the deposition of collagen fibers in photoaging skin. Altogether, the underlying mechanism of WPHs attenuating skin photoaging might lie in the synergistic modulation by increasing the antioxidant capacity, modulating the MAPK/AP-1/MMP-1 and TGF-β/Smad signaling pathways, stimulating the synthesis of type I procollagen, and restoring the impaired architecture structure. Our findings suggest that WPHs are promising agents for preventing skin photoaging.

The Application of Skin Care Product in Melasma Treatment

Melasma is an acquired and chronic hyperpigmentation disorder which is recognized as one of the most psychologically distressing and difficult to cure forms of skin hyperpigmentation. It is associated with substantial quality of life impairments. Treatments of melasma include local application, oral medication, physical laser therapy and program combination therapy. However, routine treatment usually leads to the damage of skin barrier function, resulting in adverse reactions such as erythema, pruritus, post-inflammatory pigmentation and even scar. Skin care products contain a variety of active ingredients, which are widely concerned by cosmetic dermatologists because of high safety, good tolerance and the effect of improving the damaged skin barrier. Using skin care products alone or in combination with routine treatment not only can improve the curative effect for melasma, reduce side effects and recurrence rate, but also improve patient satisfaction. This article mainly describes the application of skin care products in the treatment of melasma.

Synergistic Effect of 300 μm Needle-Depth Fractional Microneedling Radiofrequency on the Treatment of Senescence-Induced Aging Hyperpigmentation of the Skin

Aging-associated dermatological pigmentary diseases are associated with accumulation of senescence cells and the disruption of basement membrane due to chronic ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure. Our study is on the synergistic effect of the novel 300 μm needle-depth fractional microneedling radiofrequency (FMR) treatment and conventional Q-switched ND:YAG laser on aging-associated hyperpigmentation of the skin. The prospective controlled clinical trial of 25 Asian women revealed significantly higher improvements not only on wrinkles, but also on hyperpigmentation. Additional ex vivo study revealed significant reduction of pro-melanogenic markers as well as senescent keratinocytes, while increased expression of collagen type IV on the epidermal basement membrane, after additional FMR treatment on UV-irradiated human tissues. These results demonstrate that 300 μm needle-depth FMR might effectively remove senescent keratinocytes that secrete pro-melanogenic markers, and repair disrupted basement membrane, therefore preventing constant hyperpigmentation of the aged skin.

Protective effect of taurine on UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice

Taurine, a sulfur-containing amino acid derivative, exists at a high concentration in the skin and is considered to play an important role in maintaining moisture homeostasis. This study investigated the effects of oral taurine supplementation on epidermal moisture content and wrinkle formation, as well as skin taurine content, using ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated hairless mice. Wrinkles were induced by exposing hairless mice to UVB radiation (70-100 mJ/cm²). Taurine was dissolved in drinking water at a concentration of 0.3 or 3% (w/v) and given to the mice ad libitum for 2-10 weeks. Taurine was then extracted from the dorsal skin, and the skin taurine content was determined using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The wrinkles were evaluated using a wrinkle score and the quantitative wrinkle area ratio. The exposure of the mice to UVB radiation for 4 weeks resulted in a decreased moisture content and increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the skin, while taurine supplementation suppressed these changes. Oral supplementation with taurine for 8 weeks ameliorated the development of UVB-induced wrinkle formation. Furthermore, oral taurine supplementation for 4 weeks decreased pre-stablished wrinkles in a dose-dependent manner. Although the UVB radiation reduced the epidermal taurine content, oral taurine supplementation partly restored the taurine content in the epidermis. The present study showed that oral taurine supplementation is able to suppress UVB-induced wrinkle formation, which may be associated with the regulation of moisture content in the epidermis. The beneficial effects of taurine on skin aging may be attributed to its osmoregulatory role.

Saireito Improves Lymphatic Function and Prevents UVB-Induced Acute Inflammation and Photodamage in HR-1 Hairless Mice

A single high-dose ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure on the skin induces acute inflammatory responses, such as an increase in proinflammatory cytokines (e.g., IL-6 and IL-1β), hyperpermeability and dilation of blood and lymphatic vessels, and infiltration of inflammatory cells. These responses result in different cutaneous disorders characterized by erythema, epidermal hyperplasia, edema formation, and extracellular matrix degradation. Saireito extract (SRT), a traditional Chinese medicine, has been used to treat various inflammatory diseases in Japan, and SRT and its major active components (e.g., saikosaponins and baicalin) were reported to downregulate proinflammatory cytokines. Moreover, SRT has a protective effect against UV irradiation in vitro. Based on these findings, we aimed to investigate the effect of SRT on UVB-induced photodamage and structural change in the vasculature. We pretreated male HR-1 hairless mice with SRT (625 or 1250 mg/kg) for 3 weeks before a single UVB (250 mJ/cm²) irradiation. SRT treatment attenuated UVB-induced increases in erythema, transepidermal water loss, and edema formation at 72 h after irradiation. SRT treatment also suppressed UVB-induced inflammatory cell infiltration and collagen degradation. Furthermore, at 24 h after irradiation, SRT treatment inhibited UVB-induced upregulation of proinflammatory cytokines and reduction in lymphatic vessel density associated with upregulation of VEGF-C expression. These results suggest that SRT could attenuate UVB-induced photodamage. This protective effect of SRT involves suppression of upregulation of proinflammatory cytokines and improvement of lymphatic function in the early stage of inflammation.

Combination of Bifidobacterium longum and Galacto-Oligosaccharide Protects the Skin from Photoaging

Overexposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation induces photoaging that is characterized by the formation of wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity. To understand the mechanism of action of probiotics and prebiotics in skin protection against photoaging, we investigated the effects of dietary supplementation with the probiotic, Bifidobacterium longum, and prebiotic, galacto-oligosaccharide, on UVB-induced photoaging in hairless mice. We measured short chain fatty acid (SCFA) levels, antioxidant enzyme activity, and inflammatory signaling protein levels to elucidate the possible mechanisms underlying the effects of the dietary supplements B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide. We observed that dietary supplementation with B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide, individually and in combination, exerted protective effects against UVB-induced photoaging, showing anti-inflammatory and antioxidative effects. In particular, supplementation with the combination of B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide showed stronger protective effects than supplementation with the probiotic or prebiotic alone. In addition, the serum levels of SCFAs and acetate were increased following dietary supplementation with B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide, especially in combination. Therefore, we suggest that the combination of B. longum and galacto-oligosaccharide may potentially be used as a functional food to protect UVB-induced photoaging.

Cellular Senescence and Inflammaging in the Skin Microenvironment

Cellular senescence and aging result in a reduced ability to manage persistent types of inflammation. Thus, the chronic low-level inflammation associated with aging phenotype is called “inflammaging”. Inflammaging is not only related with age-associated chronic systemic diseases such as cardiovascular disease and diabetes, but also skin aging. As the largest organ of the body, skin is continuously exposed to external stressors such as UV radiation, air particulate matter, and human microbiome. In this review article, we present mechanisms for accumulation of senescence cells in different compartments of the skin based on cell types, and their association with skin resident immune cells to describe changes in cutaneous immunity during the aging process.

Influence of Caralluma adscendens Var. attenuata cold cream on UV-B damaged skin epidermal cells: a novel approach

Ultraviolet radiation-induced sunburns are characterized by pigmented, wrinkled, and dried skin, with rashes and red spots. Chemical sunscreen lotion shows beneficial effects, but it shows the adverse side effect while in continuous usage. Natural substances of plant origin are deemed a possible cause of UV radiation through sunscreen resources. On this basis, we formulated the cold cream from the Caralluma adscendens Var. attenuata (CAVA) plant extract. The phytocompounds were studied by using GC-MS. The antioxidant potential of the plant extract was determined, and the CAVA showed cytotoxicity on A375 skin melanoma cells determined by MTT assay. The FT-IR spectra analysis confirmed the chemical nature of crude and crosslinking between cold creams. The cream was applied topically to rats pre-exposed to UV-B radiation (32,800 J/m2) four times/week (on alternate days). UV-B exposed without any treatment rats showed increased red spots or wrinkles (5 cm2). In contrast, the cold cream treatment application on irradiated skin has significantly reduced the size of rashes and red spots and the wound was contracted in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, histopathology of the experimental rat skin confirmed that CAVA cream treatment significantly reduced the epidermal thickening, damage in dermis and epidermis layers, and restructured the hair follicles. This study suggests that the cream formulated using CAVA can alleviate the damages caused by the UV-B-irradiation at a high level and safeguard the skin tissues.

SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s13205-021-02694-y.

Walnut protein hydrolysates, rich with peptide fragments of WSREEQEREE and ADIYTEEAGR ameliorate UV-induced photoaging through inhibition of the NF-κB/MMP-1 signaling pathway in female rats

Skin photoaging is a complicated pathological process, and the imbalance of inflammatory regulation is associated highly with photoaging progression. Previously, prepared walnut protein hydrolysates (WPH), rich with peptide fragments of WSREEQEREE and ADIYTEEAGR demonstrated desirable photoprotection. However, it remains unclear if the photoprotection is mediated by the targeted inhibition of the NF-κB signaling pathway. Herein, we examined the regulation of WPH on inflammatory cytokine expression, and elucidated the modulation of the NF-κB/MMP-1 signaling pathway by WPH in a photoaging SD rat model. WPH significantly reduced the expression level of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β and IL-6, but significantly increased the level of IL-2 (all P < 0.05). Furthermore, WPH dramatically inhibited the activation of the NF-κB signaling pathway by mitigating the phosphorylation of IκB and p-65 proteins in a dose-dependent manner. The histopathological results indicated that WPH predominately attenuated epidermal hyperplasia, reduced the inflammatory filtration, and promoted collagen deposition in the photoaging skin tissue. Furthermore, WPH significantly stimulated the expression of TGF-β and procollagen type I, and inhibited the MMP-1 activities (all P < 0.05). Overall, the underlying mechanism of WPH ameliorating skin photoaging may be attributed to the synergistic modulation via reversing the inflammatory imbalance, suppressing the activation of the NF-κB signal pathway, stimulating procollagen type I synthesis, and inhibiting MMP-1 activities. According to these results, it can be concluded that WPH has the potential as an anti-photoaging agent in functional foods.

Depth-resolved investigation of multiple optical properties and wrinkle morphology in eye-corner areas with multi-contrast Jones matrix optical coherence tomography

BACKGROUND

Multi-contrast Jones matrix optical coherence tomography (JM-OCT) can provide quantitative depth-resolved local optical properties by improving the measurement algorithm.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We examined the relationship between depth-resolved local optical properties of eye-corner skin measured by JM-OCT and corresponding wrinkle morphology of aged women (n = 21; age range, 71.7 ± 1.7 years). Wrinkle morphology was analyzed by measuring the surface topography of three-dimensional replicas. The same regions were measured three-dimensionally by JM-OCT, and the local optical properties at each depth were computed.

RESULTS

Birefringence (BR) and mean wrinkle depth correlated significantly at a depth of 88.2-138.6 µm from the skin surface, and attenuation coefficient (AC) and mean wrinkle depth correlated significantly at a depth of 12.6-18.9 µm and 189-459.9 μm from the skin surface, although a degree of polarization uniformity (DOPU) did not. Stepwise multiple regression analysis demonstrated that a significant regression equation (R²  = 0.649, P < .001) for predicting mean wrinkle depth was determined by BR at 107.1 µm depth (BR _{107.1 µm} ), DOPU at 170.1 µm (DOPU _170.1µm ), and AC at 252 µm (AC _{252 µm} ) as independent variables and that these standardized beta regression coefficients were -0.860, -0.593, and -0.440, respectively, suggesting that BR, DOPU, and AC sufficiently explained mean wrinkle depth.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that BR _{107.1 µm} , DOPU _{170.1 µm,} and AC _{252 µm} may indicate collagen-related structure in the papillary, upper-reticular dermis, and microstructure or tissue density in reticular dermis, respectively, and may be involved in wrinkle formation.

Potential Anti-Skin Aging Effect of (-)-Catechin Isolated from the Root Bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica in Tumor Necrosis Factor-α-Stimulated Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are generated during skin aging, including intrinsic (chronologic aging) and extrinsic aging (photoaging). Therefore, antioxidants that inhibit ROS generation can delay skin aging. In this study, we evaluated the potential anti-skin aging effect of (-)-phenolic compounds isolated from the root bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica. We preferentially investigated the possible preventive effects of isolates against the degradation of skin extracellular matrix. Among the isolates, (-)-catechin suppressed the activity of collagenase MMP-1, and reversed the degradation of collagen induced by tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) in normal human dermal fibroblast. This action mechanism of (-)-catechin was validated by the suppression of tumor necrosis factor-α-induced accumulation of ROS and activation of mitogen-activated protein kinases, protein kinase B (Akt), and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2). The proinflammatory cytokines upregulate inflammatory reactions, and ultimately promote aging-related reactions. In this milieu, we demonstrated that (-)-catechin decreased the expression and secretion of proinflammatory cytokines, including interleukin (IL)-1β and IL-6. In conclusion, (-)-catechin is a candidate to ameliorate both intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging.

Mixture of enzyme-processed Panax ginseng and Gastrodia elata extract prevents UVB-induced decrease of procollagen type 1 and increase of MMP-1 and IL-6 in human dermal fibroblasts

According to the previously described anti-photoaging effect of the enzyme-processed Panax ginseng extract and Gastrodia elata extract, we hypothesized that the combination of the two extracts would have superior effect to protect human skin from UVB radiation. Besides, the mixture of active components isolated from herbal extracts, ginsenoside F2, and α-gastrodin was investigated on the photo-protective capability. The expression of aging-related markers including matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and procollagen type 1 was evaluated using ELISA kits. It was reported that the herbal extract at a Panax ginseng extract to Gastrodia elata extract ratio of 1:10 (w/w) and the compound mixture with equal proportion of ginsenoside F2 and α-gastrodin exhibited significant inhibition of MMP-1 and IL-6 production, and marked upregulation of procollagen type 1 formation. Thus, the combination of either the enzyme-processed herbal extracts or their active components would enhance the properties of prevention and treatment of UVB-induced skin damage.

Polysaccharide-rich hydrogel formulation combined with photobiomodulation repairs UV-induced photodamage in mice skin

Prolonged skin exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) induces premature aging in both the epidermis and the dermis. Chronic exposure to UVR induces the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathway, activating c-Jun, c-Fos expression, and transcription factor of AP-1 activating protein. AP-1 activation results in the positive induction of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) synthesis, which degrade skin collagen fibers. Polysaccharides from the fruit of Lycium barbarum (LBP fraction) have a range of activities and have been demonstrate to repair the photodamage. In different approaches, laser application aims to recover the aged skin without destroying the epidermis, promoting a modulation, called photobiomodulation (PBM), which leads to protein synthesis and cell proliferation, favoring tissue repair. Here we developed a topical hydrogel formulation from a polysaccharide-rich fraction of Lycium barbarum fruits (LBP). This formulation was associated with PBM (red laser) to evaluate whether the isolated and combined treatments would reduce the UVR-mediated photodamage in mice skin. Hairless mice were photoaged for 6 weeks and then treated singly or in combination with LBP and PBM. Histological, immunohistochemistry, and immunofluorescence analyses were used to investigate the levels of c-Fos, c-Jun, MMP-1, -2, and -9, collagen I, III, and FGF2. The combined regimen inhibited UVR-induced skin thickening, decreased the expression of c-Fos and c-Jun, as well as MMP-1, -2, and -9 and concomitantly increased the levels of collagen I, III, and FGF2. The PBM in combination with LBP treatment is a promising strategy for the repair of photodamaged skin, presenting potential clinical application in skin rejuvenation.

The systemic influence of chronic smoking on skin structure and mechanical function

One of the major functions of human skin is to provide protection from the environment. Although we cannot entirely avoid, for example, sun exposure, it is likely that exposure to other environmental factors could affect cutaneous function. A number of studies have identified smoking as one such factor that leads to both facial wrinkle formation and a decline in skin function. In addition to the direct physical effects of tobacco smoke on skin, its inhalation has additional profound systemic effects for the smoker. The adverse effects on the respiratory and cardiovascular systems from smoking are well known. Central to the pathological changes associated with smoking is the elastic fibre, a key component of the extracellular matrices of lungs. In this study we examined the systemic effect of chronic smoking (>40 cigarettes/day; >5 years) on the histology of the cutaneous elastic fibre system, the nanostructure and mechanics of one of its key components, the fibrillin-rich microfibril, and the micromechanical stiffness of the dermis and epidermis. We show that photoprotected skin of chronic smokers exhibits significant remodelling of the elastic fibre network (both elastin and fibrillin-rich microfibrils) as compared to the skin of age- and sex-matched non-smokers. This remodelling is not associated with increased gelatinase activity (as identified by in situ zymography). Histological remodelling is accompanied by significant ultrastructural changes to extracted fibrillin-rich microfibrils. Finally, using scanning acoustic microscopy, we demonstrated that chronic smoking significantly increases the stiffness of both the dermis and the epidermis. Taken together, these data suggest an unappreciated systemic effect of chronic inhalation of tobacco smoke on the cutaneous elastic fibre network. Such changes may in part underlie the skin wrinkling and loss of skin elasticity associated with smoking. © 2020 The Authors. The Journal of Pathology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Pathological Society of Great Britain and Ireland.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

Photoprotective Effect of Dietary Galacto-Oligosaccharide (GOS) in Hairless Mice via Regulation of the MAPK Signaling Pathway

This study investigated the suppression of photoaging by galacto-oligosaccharide (GOS) ingestion following exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. To investigate its photoprotective effects, GOS along with collagen tripeptide (CTP) as a positive control was orally administered to hairless mice under UVB exposure for 8 weeks. The water holding capacity, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and wrinkle parameters were measured. Additionally, quantitative reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction and Western blotting were used to determine mRNA expression and protein levels, respectively. The GOS or CTP orally-administered group showed a decreased water holding capacity and increased TEWL compared to those of the control group, which was exposed to UVB (CON) only. In addition, the wrinkle area and mean wrinkle length in the GOS and CTP groups significantly decreased. Skin aging-related genes, matrix metalloproteinase, had significantly different expression levels in the CTP and GOS groups. Additionally, the tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases and collagen type I gene expression in the CTP and GOS groups significantly increased. Oral administration of GOS and CTP significantly lowered the tissue cytokine (interleukin-6 and -12, and tumor necrosis factor-α) levels. There was a significant difference in UVB-induced phosphorylation of JNK, p38, and ERK between the GOS group and the CON group. Our findings indicate that GOS intake can suppress skin damage caused by UV light and has a UV photoprotective effect.

Premature cell senescence in human skin: Dual face in chronic acquired pigmentary disorders

Although senescence was originally described as an in vitro acquired cellular characteristic, it was recently recognized that senescence is physiologically and pathologically involved in aging and age-related diseases in vivo. The definition of cellular senescence has expanded to include the growth arrest caused by various cellular stresses, including DNA damage, inadequate mitochondria function, activated oncogene or tumor suppressor genes and oxidative stress. While senescence in normal aging involves various tissues over time and contributes to a decline in tissue function even with healthy aging, disease-induced premature senescence may be restricted to one or a few organs triggering a prolonged and more intense rate of accumulation of senescent cells than in normal aging. Organ-specific high senescence rate could lead to chronic diseases, especially in post-mitotic rich tissue. Recently, two opposite acquired pathological conditions related to skin pigmentation were described to be associated with premature senescence: vitiligo and melasma. In both cases, it was demonstrated that pathological dysfunctions are not restricted to melanocytes, the cell type responsible for melanin production and transport to surrounding keratinocytes. Similar to physiological melanogenesis, dermal and epidermal cells contribute directly and indirectly to deregulate skin pigmentation as a result of complex intercellular communication. Thus, despite senescence usually being reported as a uniform phenotype sharing the expression of characteristic markers, skin senescence involving mainly the dermal compartment and its paracrine function could be associated with the disappearance of melanocytes in vitiligo lesions and with the exacerbated activity of melanocytes in the hyperpigmentation spots of melasma. This suggests that the difference may arise in melanocyte intrinsic differences and/or in highly defined microenvironment peculiarities poorly explored at the current state of the art. A similar dualistic phenotype has been attributed to intratumoral stromal cells as cancer-associated fibroblasts presenting a senescent-like phenotype which influence the behavior of neoplastic cells in either a tumor-promoting or tumor-inhibiting manner. Here, we present a framework dissecting senescent-related molecular alterations shared by vitiligo and melasma patients and we also discuss disease-specific differences representing new challenges for treatment.

Action mechanism of anti-wrinkle effect of Rhamnus yoshinoi methanol extract in human dermal fibroblast and keratinocyte cell lines

Rhamnus yoshinoi is a deciduous broad-leaf bush and endemic species widely found in Korea. Recently, we reported that R. yoshinoi methanol extract (RYME) had excellent antioxidant activity and inhibition of collagenase and elastase activity in cell-free system. In this study, we investigated the ability of RYME to control the mRNA and protein expression levels of the known skin wrinkle-related factors in cultured human dermal fibroblast and keratinocyte cell lines. Treatment with 100 or 200 μg/mL RYME strongly blocked the UVB-induced downregulation of type 1 collagen mRNA expression (p < 0.001) and partially blocked the UVB-induced upregulation of MMP-3 mRNA expression in HaCaT human keratinocytes (p < 0.05 or p < 0.001). Treatment with RYME at 100 μg/mL considerably decreased MMP-1 mRNA expression in UVB-exposed HaCaT cells (p < 0.01). In HaCaT cells, RYME exhibited the potential to improve UV light-induced skin wrinkles. Moreover, RYME selectively inhibited the UVB-induced ERK-1/2 protein phosphorylation in CCD-986sk human dermal fibroblasts at 80 and 160 μg/mL. UV-induced ERK-1/2 protein phosphorylation is one of the major mechanisms of the generation of UV-induced skin wrinkles. Therefore, it is likely that the anti-skin wrinkling effect of RYME could be attributable to selective inhibition of UV induced ERK-1/2 protein phosphorylation.

Areca nut procyanidins prevent ultraviolet light B-induced photoaging via suppression of cyclooxygenase-2 and matrix metalloproteinases in mouse skin

Chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) light induces photoaging in human skin. Our previous results have shown that areca nut procyanidins (ANPs) have antioxidant capacity and possess potential anti-inflammatory effects. Here, we aimed to investigate the effect of ANPs on UVB-induced photoaging. In the present study, dorsal skin of CD-1 mice was exposed to UVB at a minimal erythema dose (130 mJ/cm²) throughout a 3-week period. The effects of ANPs and epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), a polyphenolic constituent of green tea, on UVB-induced photoaging were compared. The results show that oral administration of ANP prevented UVB-induced photoaging, indicated by epidermal thickness and collagen disorientation, and inhibited UVB-induced expression of cyclooxygenase-2 and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), such as MMP-2, MMP-9, and TIMP1. The protective potential of ANP on UVB-induced photodamage was comparable to that of EGCG. These data suggest that ANP could be useful as a dietary supplement to attenuate solar UVB-induced premature skin aging.

Antiphotoaging effect of boiled abalone residual peptide ATPGDEG on UVB-induced keratinocyte HaCaT cells

Introduction

A previous study has shown that Ala-Thr-Pro-Gly-Asp-Glu-Gly (ATPGDEG) peptide identified from boiled abalone by-products has high antioxidant activities and antihypertensive effect.

Objective

In this study, we further investigated its antiphotoaging activities by ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced HaCaT cells.

Result

UVB irradiation significantly increased the content of intercellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in HaCaT cells and decreased its content of collagen. First, the generation of intercellular ROS was reduced by abalone peptide in UVB-induced HaCaT cells. And activities of MMP-1 and MMP-9 were reduced by abalone peptide in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, western blot analysis demonstrated that abalone peptide downregulated the expression of p38, c-Jun N-terminal kinases, and extracellular signal-regulated kinases via mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) and NF-κB signaling to protect type I pro collagen and DNA damage. Molecular docking simulation confirms that abalone peptide inhibited activities of MMP-1 and MMP-9 by docking their active site, among them N-terminal Ala, C-terminal Gly, and Pro at the third position of N-terminal made a great contribution.

Conclusion and recommendation

Abalone peptide could protect type I procollagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, and it is a potential peptide for the treatment of skin photoaging in the future.

Ultrastructural characterization of damage in the basement membrane of facial melasma

The pathogenesis of melasma is not fully understood, and the role of skin basement membrane zone (BMZ) alterations in disease development and the maintenance of hypermelanogenesis are also poorly known. We performed a comparative study to characterize the ultrastructural alterations that occur in BMZ in melasma and adjacent normal skin, as well as we discuss the implications of these changes in the physiopathology of the disease. Pairs of facial skin biopsies (2 mm) from 10 women with melasma and normal skin (< 2 cm apart) were processed by Transmission Electronic Microscopy or immunohistochemistry for Melan-A counterstained with Periodic acid-Schiff stain. Cytoplasmic organelles (from keratinocyte or melanocyte), BMZ damage were assessed and melanocyte counting (total and pendulous) was done. There was greater amount of cytoplasmic organelles inside basal keratinocytes and melanocytes in melasma, as well as structural damaged areas in the lamina densa (disruptions, gaps, lower density and thinning) and anchoring fibrils (lamina lucida), compared to healthy adjacent skin. Areas with pendulous melanocytes are characterized by discontinuity of BMZ ultrastructure. The prominence of cytoplasmic organelles from melanocytes and keratinocytes evidences the involvement of both cell groups in melasma. The damage in the lamina densa and lamina lucida suggest the role of upper dermis injury/repair process in the pathogenesis of the disease.

Anti-Aging Potential of Substance P-Based Hydrogel for Human Skin Longevity

Skin aging is generally caused by a decline in the components of the extracellular matrix (e.g., collagen and elastin) and due to inflammatory phenomena. Many growth factors and peptides with cell-growth and collagen-synthesis activities have shown promise in their application in anti-aging materials. However, the effect of collagen production, without anti-inflammatory effect, and skin penetration may not be enough for their use in anti-aging agents. Previously, we reported a substance P (SP)-based hydrogel (SP gel) that had potential wound-healing activities via induction of skin cell regeneration and collagen synthesis. Here, we analyzed the anti-aging activities and skin absorption effects of SP gel to extend its characterization. Toxicity tests, performed on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and on a reconstructed 3D human skin model, indicated SP gel to be safe for long-term use, without causing irritation, even at high concentrations. In-vitro analysis revealed that SP gel elicited stronger collagen production activities than SP alone, and promoted anti-inflammatory effects with increased skin absorption properties. Moreover, SP gel did not induce melanin synthesis in a keratinocyte-melanocyte co-culture system. Together, the results suggest that SP gel has potential cosmetic effects and applicability as a novel ingredient in anti-aging products.

Stem cell competition orchestrates skin homeostasis and ageing

Stem cells underlie tissue homeostasis, but their dynamics during ageing-and the relevance of these dynamics to organ ageing-remain unknown. Here we report that the expression of the hemidesmosome component collagen XVII (COL17A1) by epidermal stem cells fluctuates physiologically through genomic/oxidative stress-induced proteolysis, and that the resulting differential expression of COL17A1 in individual stem cells generates a driving force for cell competition. In vivo clonal analysis in mice and in vitro 3D modelling show that clones that express high levels of COL17A1, which divide symmetrically, outcompete and eliminate adjacent stressed clones that express low levels of COL17A1, which divide asymmetrically. Stem cells with higher potential or quality are thus selected for homeostasis, but their eventual loss of COL17A1 limits their competition, thereby causing ageing. The resultant hemidesmosome fragility and stem cell delamination deplete adjacent melanocytes and fibroblasts to promote skin ageing. Conversely, the forced maintenance of COL17A1 rescues skin organ ageing, thereby indicating potential angles for anti-ageing therapeutic intervention.

Melasma: Updates and perspectives

Management of melasma is highly challenging due to inconsistent treatment results and frequent relapses. However, recent studies revealed that melasma may not only be a disease of melanocytes, but also a photoaging skin disorder. Herein, we attempt to validate that melasma is indeed a photoaging disorder by presenting the histopathologic findings of melasma: solar elastosis, altered basement membrane, increased vascularization and increased mast cell count. We also provide some therapeutic implications based on these findings and a discussion on the latest updates and perspectives regarding treatment.

Tectorigenin, a Flavonoid-Based Compound of Leopard Lily Rhizome, Attenuates UV-B-Induced Apoptosis and Collagen Degradation by Inhibiting Oxidative Stress in Human Keratinocytes

Ultraviolet (UV) light, a major risk factor for external skin photoaging, induces oxidative stress in skin. UV causes a breakdown of skin homeostasis by impairing the extracellular matrix and inducing cell death. Tectorigenin, a constituent of leopard lily (Belamcanda chinensis L.) rhizome, has been reported to possess antioxidant, hair-darkening, and anti-inflammatory activities; however, the effect of tectorigenin on UV-B-induced skin damage is unknown. Here, we investigated the anti-skin-damage effects of tectorigenin against UV-B-stimulated oxidative stress in human keratinocytes. We irradiated HaCaT cells with UV-B (25 mJ/cm²), followed by treatment with tectorigenin for 24 h. We found that tectorigenin decreased the levels of intracellular reactive oxygen species by increasing the expression of anti-oxidative enzymes, such as glutathione and catalase. Furthermore, tectorigenin inhibited apoptosis by reducing caspase-3- and Bcl-2-associated protein-X levels, and increasing Bcl-2 protein levels. Tectorigenin also decreased matrix metalloproteinase-1 levels and increased type 1 collagen levels, thus preventing collagen degradation. These data demonstrate that tectorigenin exerts anti-skin-damage effects in human keratinocytes by attenuating UV-B-induced hyper-oxidation, apoptosis, and collagen degradation.

Identification of Matrix Metalloproteinase-1-Suppressive Peptides in Feather Keratin Hydrolysate

Inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade collagen and elastin in the dermis of normal skin, is a key strategy for anti-skin aging. In this study, we identified five low-molecular-weight (LMW, <1 kDa) MMP-1-suppressive peptides in feather keratin hydrolysate (FKH) obtained by anaerobic digestion with an extremophilic bacterium. FKH was first subjected to ultrafiltration, followed by size-exclusion chromatography and liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry analysis. Chemically synthesized peptides identical to the sequences identified suppressed MMP expression in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). To investigate the impact of the MMP-1-suppressive peptides on the signaling pathway, we performed antibody array phosphorylation profiling of HDFs. The results suggested that the peptide GGFDL regulates ultraviolet-B-induced MMP-1 expression by inhibiting mitogen-activated protein kinases and nuclear factor κB signaling pathways as well as histone modification. Thus, LMW feather keratin peptides could serve as novel bioactive compounds to protect the skin against intrinsic and extrinsic factors.

Topical treatment with a cathepsin G inhibitor, β-keto-phosphonic acid, blocks ultraviolet irradiation-induced basement membrane damage in hairless mouse skin

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet light (UV) exposure contributes various effects to skin including damage of the basement membrane. Cathepsin G (CTSG) belongs to serine protease family, and its upregulation is involved in wrinkle formation by chronic UV irradiation. However, the effect of CTSG on the basement membrane damage in skin remains unclear.

PURPOSE

To investigate the effects of topical treatment with a CTSG inhibitor, β-keto-phosphonic acid (KPA), on basement membrane damage in chronically UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin.

METHODS

The dorsal skin of hairless mice was exposed to UV three times per week for 8 weeks. KPA was applied immediately after each session of UV irradiation. The basement membrane components, CTSG expression, and neutrophil infiltration were analyzed by immunofluorescence staining. The basement membrane structures were visualized by transmission electron microscope. CTSG and MMP-13 protein levels were analyzed by Western blotting. Assessment of wrinkle formation was examined using a skin replica assay.

RESULTS

β-keto-phosphonic acid prevented UV irradiation-induced decrease in type VII collagen, laminin 332, and perlecan at the basement membrane zone and prevented UV-induced breakage of lamina densa and UV-induced shortening of hemidesmosome. KPA prevented UV-induced CTSG and MMP-13 expressions in chronically UV-irradiated hairless mice. Increase in neutrophil infiltration by UV irradiation and UV-induced wrinkle formation was also prevented by KPA.

CONCLUSION

Our present study showed the possible involvement of CTSG in UV-induced basement membrane damage in skin through topical treatment with a CTSG inhibitor, KPA. Thus, inhibition of CTSG may be a useful strategy for the prevention of UV-induced basement membrane damage and photoaging.

Protective effects of ginsenoside Rg2 and astaxanthin mixture against UVB-induced DNA damage

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation induces skin damage, skin matrix degradation, and wrinkle formation through photochemical reaction and oxidative stress. Therefore, protecting the skin from UVB can prevent skin aging. In this study, we investigated the effects of a mixture (RA) of Rg2, a ginsenoside, and astaxanthin, an antioxidant, on the responses of HaCaT cells exposed to UVB (700 J/m²). The cells were incubated for 24 h after UVB exposure and cell viability was determined by MTT assay. UVB decreased cell viability by 60% compared to that of untreated control cells, whereas RA increased cell viability in a concentration-dependent manner, and this increase was significantly higher than that in the single treatment groups. Further, UVB increased the levels of DNA lesions such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) and 8-hydroxyguanine (8-OHdG). Conversely, RA decreased both CPD and 8-OHdG levels in a concentration-dependent manner. UVB exposure also increased phosphorylation of ataxia-telangiectasia mutated (ATM) protein kinase and p53 and subsequently increased the levels of GADD45α, p21, and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)-3, -9, and -13. Additionally, UVB exposure decreased the level of COL1A1. However, RA treatment decreased the levels of p-ATM, p-p53, GADD45α, p21, MMP-3, -9, and -13 and increased the level of COL1A1 in a concentration-dependent manner. These results suggest that RA reduces UVB-induced cytotoxicity and genotoxicity through up-regulation of DNA repair via the combined effects of Rg2 and astaxanthin.

Combined treatment of melasma involving low-fluence Q-switched Nd:YAG laser and fractional microneedling radiofrequency

Background: While low fluence Q-switched Nd:YAG laser (QSNY) demonstrates moderate efficacy in the melasma treatment for darker skin types, this single regimen still remains challenges. Fractional microneedling radiofrequency (FMR) is known to enhance dermal microenvironment, possibly offsetting pathogenic factors of melasma aggravation. Objectives: To compare the effectiveness and safety of combination therapy using low-fluence QSNY and FRM with QSNY monotherapy in Asian melasma patients Methods: A retrospective study was undertaken for melasma patients to compare clinical data between 56 patients receiving combination regimen and 58 patients with QSNY only. For the 10 sessions at 1-week intervals, combination group was consecutively treated with QSNY and FRM, while QS toning group with QSNY alone. Two blinded dermatologists evaluated the efficacy based on modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI) and the physician's global assessment (PGA) at baseline and 3 months after the final treatment. Treatment-related side effects and disease course was recorded in detail. Results: Combination group demonstrated better efficacy compared with QS toning only group. Both median degrees of mMASI decrease (2.9 vs. 1.8) and proportions of PGA achieving better than 'good' grades (68% vs. 54%) showed superior efficacies of combination group. No significant difference was observed for treatment-related side effects between two groups, while the prevalence of mottle hypopigmentation and rebound hyperpigmentation was higher in QSNY only group. Conclusion: A novel dual mode of low-fluence QSNY and FRM represents a safe and effective treatment for melasma in Asian melasma patients.