Modelling dishes and exploring culinary ‘precisions’: the two issues of molecular gastronomy

Investigation of Structural Transformations During the Manufacturing of Expanded Snacks for Reformulation Purposes

In this paper, we investigate the functionality of potato-based ingredients present in indirectly expanded snacks via careful analysis of their transformation during processing. This research is driven by the desire of industry to develop similar snacks for upcoming markets, where the potato-based ingredients are replaced by other starch sources, which are locally available and at a lower cost. For a range of reformulated snacks, the transformations of starchy ingredients are analysed with a wide variety of experimental methods, like DSC, XRD, and XRT. Our analysis shows that ingredients undergo little transformations during extrusion, which is indeed intended to be mild. During frying native tuber starches (potato and tapioca starch) fully gelatinize, while cereal starches show little gelatinization and swelling. Despite the gelatinization of tuber starches, the particulate character of ingredients is retained. Replacement of pregelatinized potato starch with other starches shows little change in structure. The evolution of the structure of the reformulated snacks are analysed with the CDS formalism. We conclude that gel formers and hard fillers present in the analysed formulations had little functionality regarding texture or structure. For texture, it appears to be required that the matrix composes of a bicontinuous structure of soft fillers, namely gelatinized tuber starches and potato dehydrates. Both these ingredients can be replaced by other tuber-starch sources if the aggregation of the two soft fillers can be prevented. Commercial availability of tuber flours can still be an issue.

Understanding functionality of sucrose in cake for reformulation purposes

We review the functionality of sucrose during the manufacture of cakes from the perspective of sugar replacement. Besides providing sweetness, sucrose has important functionalities concerning structure formation. These functionalities also need to be mimicked in reformulated cakes. First, we review the hypotheses, concerning the development of structure and texture of cakes during manufacturing, which are conveniently summarized in a qualitative way using the Complex Dispersed Systems methodology. Subsequently, we represent the changes of the state of the cake during manufacturing in a supplemented state diagram, which indicates the important phase transitions occurring during baking. From the analysis, we have learned that sucrose act both as a plasticizer and as a humectant, modifying the phase transitions of biopolymers, dough viscosity, and water activity. If sugar replacers exactly mimick this behavior of sucrose, similar textures in reformulated cakes can be obtained. Physical theories exist for characterizing the plasticizing and hygroscopic behavior of sugars and their replacers. We have shown that the starch gelatinization and egg white denaturation can be predicted by the volumetric density of hydrogen bonds present in the solvent, consisting of water, sugar or its replacers, such as polyols or amino-acids.

Gastronomic Paradigms in Contemporary Western Cuisine: From French Haute Cuisine to Mass Media Gastronomy

Thomas Kuhn brings the concept of "paradigm" as the fundamental engine in the progress of humanity. Kuhn defines paradigms as the set of formal theories, experiments and work methods that define a process (scientific, economic, social, and in this case, contemporary haute cuisine), in a given time. According to Kuhn, progress does not happen by gradual accumulation of knowledge, but rather by abrupt advances. In this review, the conceptual evolution experienced by contemporary gastronomy (from the French Revolution to today) is analyzed applying the paradigm structure in light of the scientific knowledge of each era. It is thus reviewed how the first and second gastronomic paradigms, proposed, respectively, by Carême and Escoffier and based on food smell and taste the first and the flavor of the sauces the second, have been replaced by the third and fourth paradigms, led, respectively, by the Nouvelle Cuisine in France and Ferrán Adriá in Spain, and in whose development touch, sight, and sound have become increasingly prominent in gastronomic pleasure. Finally, it is analyzed how new trends in gastronomy: (1) worldwide diffusion of the Spanish tapas; (2) globalization of ethnic and fusion cuisines; (3) the growing disappearance of the professional gastronomic critique and its replacement by mass media influencers; (4) the increase of sustainability in cooking with development of local-, vegan-, and paleo-cooking, comfort, and smart food and finally, (5) the growing role of social networks and the self-itis linked to photography or foodstagramming in the gastronomic experience are leading toward a new gastronomic paradigm based on the global socialization of classic gastronomy.

The impact of modification techniques on the rheological properties of dysphagia foods and liquids

Modifying food and the textures of food has been done for decades within the food science and technology field. More recently, modifying the texture of foods has been used to manage swallowing disabilities (dysphagia). Swallowing disabilities are often associated with dehydration and malnutrition, thus nutritional intervention has formed part of serving texture-modified diets. The question remains whether these modification techniques are viable for individuals with swallowing disabilities living in majority world countries. This study used two modification methods on a widely used specialized nutritious food (SNF) to determine whether it may be modified and used in dysphagia management. The techniques had to be ergonomic and economically appropriate for individuals with swallowing disabilities living in majority world countries. The International Dysphagia Diet Standardization Initiative's (IDDSI) standards were used to determine whether the texturally modified SNF is safe for swallowing. Rheological measurements were performed to determine apparent viscosity and structure recovery of each sample. The effects of two modification techniques, aeration and particle separation, on the rheological properties of the SNF were also measured and analyzed. It was determined that both milk and water could be used with this SNF to create a dysphagia diet, but only under certain conditions. The overall results indicated that heating the samples increased the apparent viscosity and exacerbated lumping. Room temperature samples had less lumps and could be classified to the desired levels of the IDDSI (Level 2 and Level 4). Using a whisk to aerate the samples reduced lumps significantly and using a sieve to separate particles of liquid samples eliminated lumps. This study provides new data on how texture modification techniques and the IDDSI framework could be adapted to individuals living in majority world countries. By using modification techniques that are ergonomic and economically viable and an SNF with longevity, this study could be useful in guiding future training of nursing staff and caregivers of individuals living in poverty or resource-constrained communities. This study also adds to the data on the rheological properties of dysphagia foods, although this study did not make use of commercial thickeners generally used in the modification of diets.

Understanding functionality of sucrose in biscuits for reformulation purposes

We review the functionality of sucrose during the manufacture of biscuits from the perspective of sugar replacement. Besides to providing sweetness, sucrose has important functionalities concerning structure and texture formation. These functionalities also need to be mimicked in reformulated biscuits. First, we review the hypotheses concerning the development of structure and texture of biscuits during manufacturing, which are conveniently summarized in a qualitative way using the Complex Dispersed Systems methodology. Subsequently, we represent the changes of the state of the biscuit during manufacturing in the supplemented state diagram, which indicates the important phase transitions occurring during mixing and baking. We propose that when reformulated biscuits follow similar paths in the state diagram, similar structures and textures can be obtained. Physical theories exist for predicting these phase transitions for existing sucrose-rich biscuits and also reformulated biscuits containing extensive sweeteners as sugar replacers. More accurate predictions of structure and texture can be eventually obtained if they are combined with computational models, including heat and moisture transfer.

Evidence-based creativity: Working between art and science in the field of fine dining

This article examines how scientific knowledge drives creativity in the small but influential culinary movement of 'modernist cuisine'. Originating in the mid-1990s, modernist cuisine began with a small group of avant-garde chefs using science to produce wildly innovative culinary creations. Since then, many of the movement's innovations, as well as its more general 'science-based' approach to cooking, have gained adoption among a diverse range of culinary professionals. But while science has enabled modernist chefs to produce a wide array of innovations and refinements, the group's embrace of scientific values poses a potential threat to the subjective, intuition-driven logic of culinary creativity. Using data gathered through interviews and participant observation, I describe how modernist chefs navigate the potential challenges of using science in a creative field. I find that advocates of modernist cuisine address these challenges by adopting two separate rhetorical repertoires - one emphasizing science-based cooking's advantages over traditional methods, and another that minimizes the differences between these approaches. Observing the strategic deployment of these repertoires illustrates the challenges to incorporating science into creative fields and reveals a complex and nuanced relationship between objectivity, evidence, and aesthetic judgement.

Soft matter food physics--the physics of food and cooking

This review discusses the (soft matter) physics of food. Although food is generally not considered as a typical model system for fundamental (soft matter) physics, a number of basic principles can be found in the interplay between the basic components of foods, water, oil/fat, proteins and carbohydrates. The review starts with the introduction and behavior of food-relevant molecules and discusses food-relevant properties and applications from their fundamental (multiscale) behavior. Typical food aspects from 'hard matter systems', such as chocolates or crystalline fats, to 'soft matter' in emulsions, dough, pasta and meat are covered and can be explained on a molecular basis. An important conclusion is the point that the macroscopic properties and the perception are defined by the molecular interplay on all length and time scales.

Diet and healthy ageing 2100: will we globalise local knowledge systems?

Diet and health clearly are linked intrinsically. Today, more than ever food is functionalized and tailor made for specific groups (e.g. athletes, the elderly, and people with specific conditions). Increased life expectancy has resulted in an increase in the quest for diets which allow for a healthy ageing. In looking back 100 years, we try to assess how of our diets will evolve in the next 100 years and how this may be linked to a 'healthier ageing'. Our argument centres around a series of dichotomies which we used to explain the main changes in dietary habits and how this impacts on health--the continuous move from dietary traditions which are local, low in technological input and based on empiricism, to diets which are global, require high technological input and are science-based. The innovations our societies have achieved over the last century have allowed us to improve our diet based on a better scientific understanding of the health benefits of such diets, but this is often not achieved due to commercial considerations. This will require that all sectors of the food industry work towards healthy and economically affordable diets. In addition, there will be a continuous demand by the consumers to ascertain that 'our' foods are not only healthy but also convenient and easy to prepare. Healthy ageing will require us to look at a multitude of aspects of foods, to integrate this knowledge and to apply it in all sectors of food production.