Quality by design (QbD), Process Analytical Technology (PAT), and design of experiment applied to the development of multifunctional sunscreens

Clinical Applications of Sunscreens and Formulation Advancements

Sunscreens cover the big market ratio in terms of cosmetic applications, but the therapeutic necessity of sunscreen still needs to be uncovered in the clinical context. Clinically, sunscreens are being employed more often nowadays as a result of the rising consequences of skin malignancies and the photodamaging effects of UV radiation. Sunscreens are essential to prevent aging by shielding the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Over the recent decades, there has been a significant evolution in the usage of sunscreens as photo protectants. The demand for sunscreen formulations will inevitably rise as more people become aware of the protection that sunscreens provide against tanning, photoaging, non-melanoma skin cancers, premalignant skin lesions, and skin melanomas. The novel contemporary formulation techniques are also beneficial in enhancing the product's aesthetic look and quality. Recently, regulatory agencies have also started paying attention to the regulation of the clinical application, efficacy, and safety parameters related to sunscreen. This review underlines the pathophysiological response of UV exposure with the therapeutic applications of sunscreen in various dermatological conditions and the recent formulation advancements in the development of sunscreen.

Photoprotective Efficacy of the Association of Rosmarinic Acid 0.1% with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Avobenzone

Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens.

Enhanced oral absorption of insulin: hydrophobic ion pairing and a self-microemulsifying drug delivery system using a D-optimal mixture design

The lipophilicity of a peptide drug can be considerably increased by hydrophobic ion pairing with amphiphilic counterions for successful incorporation into lipid-based formulations. Herein, to enhance the oral absorption of insulin (INS), a self-microemulsifying drug delivery system (SMEDDS) formulation was developed. Prior to optimization, INS was complexed with sodium n-octadecyl sulfate (SOS) to increase the loading into the SMEDDS. The INS–SOS complex was characterized via scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry, and its dissociation behavior. The SMEDDS was optimized using a D-optimal mixture design with three independent variables including Capmul MCM (X₁, 9.31%), Labrasol (X₂, 49.77%), and Tetraglycol (X₃, 40.92%) and three response variables including droplet size (Y₁, 115.2 nm), INS stability (Y₂, 46.75%), and INS leakage (Y₃, 17.67%). The desirability function was 0.766, indicating excellent agreement between the predicted and experimental values. The stability of INS-SOS against gastrointestinal enzymes was noticeably improved in the SMEDDS, and the majority of INS remained in oil droplets during release. Following oral administration in diabetic rats, the optimized SMEDDS resulted in pharmacological availabilities of 3.23% (50 IU/kg) and 2.13% (100 IU/kg). Thus, the optimized SMEDDS is a good candidate for the practical development of oral delivery of peptide drugs such as INS.

Prospecting In Vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties of Rosmarinic Acid in a Sunscreen System Developed by QbD Containing Octyl p-Methoxycinnamate and Bemotrizinol

Progressively growing diagnoses of skin cancer trigger public health concerns about excessive sun exposure, awareness of the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, and the proper use of sunscreens. Studies show that bioactive molecules, such as rosmarinic acid (RA), may potentiate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of topical formulations. This research presents the application of the concepts of quality by design (QbD) to evaluate the critical parameters of quality and the development of an optimized cosmetic formulation with RA by means of an understanding of product design space. Samples were developed using design of experiments (DoE) and they were evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity and photoprotective efficacy, as well as for photostability through artificial irradiation. We were able to achieve the RA performance regarding antioxidant and SPF properties through in vitro experiments. We obtained the equations for predicting the in vitro antioxidant activity and SPF. Considering our sunscreen system, developed with octyl p-methoxycinnamate and bemotrizinol, the presence of RA increased its antioxidant capacity; however, the in vitro SPF was reduced when both UV filters were used. The development of multifunctional sunscreens is of utmost importance; moreover, there is a need for the rational development of formulations that ensure representative statistical tests of the effects and interactions among the components of a formulation on the desired critical quality attributes, including efficacy.

Multiple Bioactivities of Manihot esculenta Leaves: UV Filter, Anti-Oxidation, Anti-Melanogenesis, Collagen Synthesis Enhancement, and Anti-Adipogenesis

The cassava root is an important global agro-industrial crop that yields cassava leaf as a left-over co-product of interest for further development as a sustainable resource of health and cosmeceutical active compounds. This work aimed to investigate the cosmeceutical potential and chemical composition of an ethanolic cassava leaf extract (BM). rutin, apigenin, and kaempferol were found to be major constituents via HPLC-DAD UV analysis. Interestingly, the multiple beneficial bioactivities of BM for cosmeceutical applications were manifested in a dose-dependent manner, including anti-oxidation in a 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay, anti-melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells, collagen synthesis enhancement in human fibroblasts, and anti-adipogenesis in 3T3-L1 adipocytes. Furthermore, the potential of the collagen synthesis enhancement of BM and rutin was significant when compared to ascorbic acid. Additionally, a UV filter property comparable to BEMT with characteristics of board spectral absorption and constant high absorptivity throughout all UV wavelength ranges was exhibited by UV-visible spectrophotometric analysis. In conclusion, the cassava leaf was found to be a potential natural cosmeceutical active agent with multiple cosmeceutical-related bioactivities with respect to a substantial composition of bioactive flavonols. These obtained data will support and encourage the further study and development of cassava leaves as potential economic and sustainable sources of bioactive agents for health and cosmeceutical applications.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy

OBJECTIVE

The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems.

METHODS

Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME.

RESULTS

As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME, nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe.

CONCLUSION

Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, β-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Quality by design enabled the development of stable and effective oil-in-water emulsions at compounding pharmacy: the case of a sunscreen formulation

It is widely accepted that the use of topical sunscreens has medical importance with potential to prevent skin damage by protecting from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) effects. Pharmaceutical emulsions require an optimal qualitative and quantitative combination of emollients, emulsifiers and others compounds such as softening agents and, for sunscreens, a combination of chemical and physical UV filters. Herein, we applied the quality by design (QbD) concept to achieve stable and effective compounded sunscreen emulsions. By using the statistical tool of design of experiments, it was possible to identify the influence of emulsifier type (with low and high Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) and concentrations of emollient and softening agent on the achievement of formulations with suitable organoleptic and physicochemical features. Compounded emulsions with pleasant macroscopic aspects were obtained. Three formulations with physicochemical properties in targeted ranges were selected, namely pH ∼6.0, conductivity > 0.0 µS/cm², spreadability factor ∼1-1.5 g/mm², viscosity ∼12000 mPa.s and sunscreen protection factor ∼30. Freeze-thaw cycle and accelerated stability study under different storage conditions allowed selecting a stable emulsion that ensured photoprotection in biological assays. The QbD approach was essential to select the best, low-cost compounded sunscreen emulsion, with targeted physicochemical parameters.

'All-natural' anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation

OBJECTIVE

The growing consumers' preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles.

METHODS

Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis - DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within 'design of experiments' approach was employed. The general skin performance - preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques.

RESULTS

Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G' > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles.

CONCLUSION

Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product.

Analytical Quality by Design as an Important Tool to Determine the Best Analytical Conditions for Isoniazid and Its Respective Succinylated Prodrug

BACKGROUND

Tuberculosis is a worldwide health concern and isoniazid is the most used and considered one of the most effective drugs for its treatment. The "quality" concept must be incorporated into the final pharmaceutical product, according to the quality by design (QbD) definition. Therefore, the determination of analytical test conditions is extremely important and the design of experiments (DoE) becomes a very useful tool.

OBJECTIVE

This paper used the concept of QbD to assist the development of analytical conditions for isoniazid and its respective prodrug, applying HPLC.

METHOD

HPLC analytical methodologies were developed for isoniazid and its succinylated derivative. The experimental design was carried out using three analytical parameters at three levels. Four chromatographic responses were studied. The impact of analytical parameters on chromatographic responses was assessed using a Pareto chart. Regression models were obtained using multiple regression analysis. DoE analysis was conducted using the Minitab® program and the experiments were performed sequentially, with varying factors.

RESULTS

We identify three main risk parameters: mobile phase (high), flow rate (moderate), and pH of buffer (moderate). The ratio of mobile phase buffer (X2) and mobile phase pH (X3) had a major influence on the peak resolutions (Y3). The capacity factors for iso-suc (Y1) and isoniazid (Y2) peaks should be within 3-9 and 4-10, respectively. The peak resolutions between iso-suc and isoniazid (Y3) should be above two.

CONCLUSIONS

We designed 27 experiments, obtaining 1.0 mL/min flow rate, 95% buffer in the mobile phase, and pH 7.0 as the optimal analytical conditions.

HIGHLIGHTS

Analytical Quality by Design was used as an important tool to determine the best analytical test conditions for isoniazid and its respective prodrug - succinylated isoniazid.

Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

Research Advances in the Use of Bioactive Compounds from Vitis vinifera By-Products in Oral Care

Oral health is considered an important factor of general health and it contributes to the quality of life. Despite the raising awareness of preventive measures, the prevalence of oral health conditions continues to increase. In this context, a growing interest in investigating natural resources like Vitis vinifera (V. vinifera) phenolic compounds (PhCs) as oral health promoters has emerged. This paper aims to review the evidence about the bioactivities of V. vinifera by-products in oral health. Up to date, a high number of studies have thoroughly reported the antimicrobial and antiplaque activity of V. vinifera extracts against S. mutans or in multi-species biofilms. Moreover, the bioactive compounds from V. vinifera by-products have been shown to modulate the periodontal inflammatory response and the underlying oxidative stress imbalance induced by the pathogenic bacteria. Considering these beneficial effects, the utility of V. vinifera by-products in the maintaining of oral health and the necessary steps towards the development of oral care products were emphasized. In conclusion, the high potential of V. vinifera by-products could be valorized in the development of oral hygiene products with multi-target actions in the prevention and progression of several oral conditions.

Optimization of solid self-dispersing micelle for enhancing dissolution and oral bioavailability of valsartan using Box-Behnken design

A novel solid self-dispersing micelle (S-SDM) was developed to enhance the oral bioavailability of valsartan (VST) and to reduce the total mass of solidified supersaturable self-microemulsifying drug delivery system (S-SuSMEDDS), composed of Capmul MCM, Tween 80 (T80), Gelucire 44/14 (G44), Poloxamer 407, Florite PS-10 (FLO), and low-substituted hydroxypropyl cellulose B1 (HPC). Excluding oil component from S-SuSMEDDS, S-SDM was optimized using a Box-Behnken design with three independent variables: X₁ (T80/G44, 0.63), X₂ (FLO/HPC, 0.41), and X₃ (solid carrier, 177.6 mg); and three response factors: Y₁ (droplet size, 191.9 nm), Y₂ (dissolution efficiency at 15 min, 55.0%), and Y₃ (angle of repose, 32.4°). The desirability function was 0.636, showing an excellent agreement between the predicted and experimental values. With approximately 75% weight of S-SuSMEDDS, no distinct crystallinity of VST was observed in S-SDM, resulting in critical micelle concentration value of 32 μg/mL. Optimized S-SDM showed an approximate 4-fold improved dissolution (pH 1.2, 500 mL) compared with raw VST. Following oral administration in rats, optimized S-SDM improved relative bioavailability by approximately 235%, 216%, and 127% versus raw VST, Diovan® (commercial reference), and S-SuSMEDDS, respectively. Thus, optimized S-SDM could be a selectable candidate for developing water-insoluble drugs in reduced quantity.

Is the Botryococcus braunii Dry Biomass an Adjuvant for Anti-UVB Topical Formulations?

Several topical products have been developed to avoid the harmful effects from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, such as sunscreens. Research for actives from natural sources is increasing due to the fact that chemical filters could induce adverse events. The microalgae Botryococcus braunii has potential interest in cosmetic applications. Specialized literature reported that B. braunii aqueous extract induced a reduction in skin dehydration and collagen production and promoted antioxidant activity. This research aimed to produce B. braunii biomass and to investigate its contribution regarding photoprotection. Formulations containing B. braunii dry biomass, with or without UV filters into vehicles composed of an emulsifying polymer or a self-emulsifying base, were evaluated in vitro by means of photoprotective activity and photostability. B. braunii dry biomass did not provide adequate photoprotection efficacy; however, it was observed that the self-emulsifying base promoted better sun protection factor (SPF) in comparison with the emulsifying polymer.

Sunscreen products: Rationale for use, formulation development and regulatory considerations

The association of sunrays with skin damage have been known since medieval times. The description of the electromagnetic spectrum facilitated the identification of the ultraviolet light spectrum as being responsible for skin damage resulting from prolonged skin exposure. Sunscreens have been used since ancient civilizations with various measures to limit exposure to sun exposure being employed. Awareness of the risks associated with sunrays has been increasing in the last century, and as a result, the science, technologies, and formulation have advanced significantly. The use of sunscreen products continues rising as government health agencies seek to contain increasing cases of UV induced melanomas. Recreational sunbathing and artificial tanning have increased the risk for these diseases significantly. This review article sought to expound the scientific basis of sunscreen use, the classification, formulation, quality control and regulation across the different countries around the world. The literature review was conducted on Google scholar, PubMed, SCOPUS, Cochrane, BMJ, SCIELO among others.

Another Reason for Using Caffeine in Dermocosmetics: Sunscreen Adjuvant

The excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main cause of skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the world. In this context, the development of innovative and more effective sunscreens, with bioactive compounds like caffeine, displaying antioxidant and anticancer potential, is required. This research work assessed in vitro and in vivo the efficacy and safety of topical sunscreen formulations containing caffeine as an adjuvant of the UV filters. Sunscreens were prepared with 2.5% w/w caffeine or in the absence of this compound. In order to evaluate the safety of these formulations, stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier and colorimetry were assessed in vivo in healthy subjects before and after skin treatment with the samples. The efficacy of the sunscreens was assessed in vitro, using PMMA plates and a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere; and in vivo by the determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). None of the formulations caused erythema or impaired the skin barrier function. The in vitro functional characterization showed higher SPF values for the caffeine formulation. The in vivo studies also confirmed the higher SPF value of the formulation combining caffeine with the filters, compared to the caffeine-free sample. This improvement contributed to an increase of, approximately, 25% in the in vivo anti-UVB protection. In conclusion, caffeine was well tolerated by the skin and increased the photoprotective activity, being a new alternative adjuvant in sunscreens formulation.

Ferulic acid photoprotective properties in association with UV filters: multifunctional sunscreen with improved SPF and UVA-PF

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation stimulates several injurious biological effects on cutaneous tissue, causing, for instance, photocarcinogenesis. Sunscreens are topical products designed to protect the skin against these harmful effects and their use must be encouraged. The addition of antioxidants, as ferulic acid (FA), a phenolic compound from the class of the hydroxycinnamic acids, in sunscreens could improve their sun protection factor (SPF) and prevent inflammatory reactions. Here, the clinical safety and efficacy of an association of ethylhexyl triazone and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (UV filters) with ferulic acid were assessed. Samples had good skin biocompatibility and presented satisfactory safety profile, even in a sun-exposed condition. A synergic effect between the natural polyphenol and the UV filters was evidenced, as well as, FA increased in vivo SPF in 37% and the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) in 26%. The in vivo data indicated that FA reinforced the broad-spectrum characteristic of the photoprotective formulations. Additionally, according to the results from the ex vivo antioxidant test, it is plausible to recommend adjustments on the ex vivo protocol to explicitly determine the positive effects of topical antioxidant ingredients applied over the skin. These results provided a new perspective for the development of multifunctional bioactive sunscreens using FA as a new platform.