Immunopharmacology and immunopathology of peptides and proteins in personal products

Identification of the Wound Healing Activity Peptidome of Edible Bird's Nest Protein Hydrolysate and the In Silico Evaluation of Its Transport and Absorption Potential in Skin

In this study, edible bird's nest (EBN) was proven to be a suitable source of bioactive peptides via enzymatic hydrolysis. The ultrafiltration component of the EBN peptides (EBNPs, Mw < 3 000 Da) could be responsible for moderate moisture retention and filaggrin synthesis. It was found that EBNP had a great capacity to protect HaCaT keratinocytes from DNA damage caused by UVB-irradiation and enhance wound healing by increasing the migratory and proliferative potential of cells. Furthermore, the external application of EBNP could effectively repair high glycolic acid concentration-induced skin burns in mice. A total of 1 188 peptides, predominantly the hydrophobic amino acids (e.g., Leu, Val, Tyr, Phe), were identified in the EBNP by liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Molecular docking showed that hydrophobic tripeptides from EBNP had a good binding affinity to proton-dependent oligopeptide transporter PepT1. Our data indicated that the hydrophobic amino acid-rich EBNP plays an important role in skin wound healing.

Research Progress on Bioactive Factors against Skin Aging

The relentless pursuit of effective strategies against skin aging has led to significant interest in the role of bioactive factors, particularly secondary metabolites from natural sources. The purpose of this study is to meticulously explore and summarize the recent advancements in understanding and utilization of bioactive factors against skin aging, with a focus on their sources, mechanisms of action, and therapeutic potential. Skin, the largest organ of the body, directly interacts with the external environment, making it susceptible to aging influenced by factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and oxidative stress. Among various interventions, bioactive factors, including peptides, amino acids, and secondary metabolites, have shown promising anti-aging effects by modulating the biological pathways associated with skin integrity and youthfulness. This article provides a comprehensive overview of these bioactive compounds, emphasizing collagen peptides, antioxidants, and herbal extracts, and discusses their effectiveness in promoting collagen synthesis, enhancing skin barrier function, and mitigating the visible signs of aging. By presenting a synthesis of the current research, this study aims to highlight the therapeutic potential of these bioactive factors in developing innovative anti-aging skin care solutions, thereby contributing to the broader field of dermatological research and offering new perspectives for future studies. Our findings underscore the importance of the continued exploration of bioactive compounds for their potential to revolutionize anti-aging skin care and improve skin health and aesthetics.

Self-assembled and Zn(II)-coordinated dipeptide nanoparticles with membrane-rupturing action on bacteria

Metal ion-coordinated self-assembled short-chain amino acid peptide molecules with multi-photon excitation wavelengths and their photoluminescence properties are advantageous for fluorescence-based diagnostics and treatments of biological diseases based on their extra features of antibacterial agents. We have designed a novel strategy based on tryptophan molecule coordinated with Zn(II) ions in the form of biocompatible spherical nanoparticles of diameter 30-80 nm which have been used for antibacterial treatments against different kinds of pathogenic bacteria (Escherichia coli, Salmonella typhimurium, and Pseudomonas). Preferably, we have used tryptophan-phenylalanine (Trp-Phe), a dipeptide molecule having tryptophan as principal material against E. coli strains as antimicrobial agents for surface rupturing and killing purposes. Furthermore, based on single amino acid, tryptophan, self-assembled and Zn(II)-coordinated dipeptide nanoparticles (Zn-DPNPs) were studied against three types of multi-drug-resistant bacteria as an active antimicrobial agent. These antibacterial efficient nanoparticles may have best alternative of antibiotic drugs for clinical applications. The capability of self-assembled fluorescence behavior of Zn-coordinated dipeptide molecules and higher hydrophobicity against bacterial cell wall will perform as antimicrobial fluorescent agents. KEY POINTS: • Zn(II) and Cu(II) better coordinated into self-assembled NPs. • Fluorescence signals showed interaction of NPs with gram -ve cell wall. • Significant surface-damaging effects were observed in the case of Cu-DPNPs and Zn-DPNPs.

A systematic review of natural products for skin applications: Targeting inflammation, wound healing, and photo-aging

BACKGROUND

Every day the skin is constantly exposed to several harmful factors that induce oxidative stress. When the cells are incapable to maintain the balance between antioxidant defenses and reactive oxygen species, the skin no longer can keep its integrity and homeostasis. Chronic inflammation, premature skin aging, tissue damage, and immunosuppression are possible consequences induced by sustained exposure to environmental and endogenous reactive oxygen species. Skin immune and non-immune cells together with the microbiome are essential to efficiently trigger skin immune responses to stress. For this reason, an ever-increasing demand for novel molecules capable of modulating immune functions in the skin has risen the level of their development, particularly in the field of natural product-derived molecules.

PURPOSE

In this review, we explore different classes of molecules that showed evidence in modulate skin immune responses, as well as their target receptors and signaling pathways. Moreover, we describe the role of polyphenols, polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, and probiotics as possible treatments for skin conditions, including wound healing, infection, inflammation, allergies, and premature skin aging.

METHODS

Literature was searched, analyzed, and collected using databases, including PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar. The search terms used included "Skin", "wound healing", "natural products", "skin microbiome", "immunomodulation", "anti-inflammatory", "antioxidant", "infection", "UV radiation", "polyphenols", "polysaccharides", "fatty acids", "plant oils", "peptides", "antimicrobial peptides", "probiotics", "atopic dermatitis", "psoriasis", "auto-immunity", "dry skin", "aging", etc., and several combinations of these keywords.

RESULTS

Natural products offer different solutions as possible treatments for several skin conditions. Significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were reported, followed by the ability to modulate immune functions in the skin. Several membrane-bound immune receptors in the skin recognize diverse types of natural-derived molecules, promoting different immune responses that can improve skin conditions.

CONCLUSION

Despite the increasing progress in drug discovery, several limiting factors need future clarification. Understanding the safety, biological activities, and precise mechanisms of action is a priority as well as the characterization of the active compounds responsible for that. This review provides directions for future studies in the development of new molecules with important pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical value.

Effects of a Combination of Arginine Silicate Inositol Complex and a Novel Form of Biotin on Hair and Nail Growth in a Rodent Model

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of a combination of inositol-stabilized arginine silicate complex (ASI) and magnesium biotinate (MgB) on hair and nail growth in an animal model. Twenty-eight female Sprague-Dawley rats (8 weeks old) were randomized into one of the following groups: (i) group (control), shaved; (ii) group (ASI), shaved + ASI (4.14 mg/rat/day); (iii) group (ASI + MgB I), shaved + ASI (4.14 mg/rat/day) + MgB (48.7 μg/rat/day); and (iv) group (ASI + MgB II), shaved + ASI (4.14 mg/rat/day) + MgB (325 μg/rat/day). On day 42, compared with the control group, while hair density (p < 0.05, p < 0.01, and p < 0.0001, respectively) and anagen ratio (p < 0.01, p < 0.01, and p < 0.001) increased in the ASI, ASI + MgB I, and ASI + MgB II groups, telogen ratio decreased (p < 0.01, p < 0.01, and p < 0.001, respectively). In the molecular analysis, VEGF, HGF, and KGF-2 increased in the ASI (p < 0.01, p < 0.01, and p < 0.05, respectively), ASI + MgB I (p < 0.0001 for all), and ASI + MgB II (p < 0.0001 for all) groups when compared to the control group. FGF-2 (p < 0.01) and IGF-1 (p < 0.001) were found to be increased in the ASI + MgB I and ASI + MgB II groups. SIRT-1 and β-catenin increased in the ASI (p < 0.05 and p < 0.01), ASI + MgB I (p < 0.001 for both), and ASI + MgB II (p < 0.0001 for both) groups. Wnt-1 increased in the ASI + MgB I (p < 0.001) and ASI + MgB II (p < 0.0001) groups. In conclusion, the combination of ASI and MgB could promote hair growth by regulating IGF-1, FGF, KGF, HGF, VEGF, SIRT-1, Wnt, and β-catenin signal pathways. It was also established that ASI did not affect nail growth, whereas the MgB combination was effective using a higher dose of biotin.

Cosmetic Application of Cyanobacteria Extracts with a Sustainable Vision to Skincare: Role in the Antioxidant and Antiaging Process

Nature-based and sustainably sourced cosmetics have been dominating the area of skincare products worldwide. Due to their antioxidant and antiaging properties, compounds from cyanobacteria, such as carotenoids and phycobiliproteins, may replace synthetic ingredients in cosmetic formulations and may be used in products such as sunscreens, skincare creams, and makeup. In this study, we evaluated the potential of acetonic and aqueous extracts from cyanobacteria strains of the genera Cyanobium and Leptothoe and from strains within Synechococcales and Oscillatoriales orders, for use in cosmetics. Extractions were sequentially performed with acetone and water. Extracts were firstly analyzed for their toxicity to keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells (HaCAT, 3T3L1 and hCMEC/D3, respectively). The non-cytotoxic extracts were characterized in terms of total proteins, carotenoids, chlorophyll, phenols, phycobiliproteins, and analyzed for their antioxidant potential against the superoxide anion radical (O2•−), and for their ability to inhibit key enzymes associated with the skin aging process. Aqueous extracts were richer in total proteins and phycobiliproteins. The aqueous extracts of Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181150 showed the highest value for total proteins (760.81 and 695.25 μg BSA mL−1dry extract, respectively) and the best values regarding O2•− scavenging (IC50 = 63.24 and 112.18 μg mL−1dry extract, respectively) with a significant negative correlation observed (p < 0.01). Moreover, aqueous extracts of Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181150 and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 inhibited hyaluronidase, (IC50 of 483.86 and 645.06 μg mL−1dry extract, respectively), with a significant negative correlation with total proteins (p < 0.05), pointing out the contribution of these compounds to the biological activities observed. Acetonic extracts were richer in carotenoids and phenols. Zeaxanthin and β-carotene were predominant among all strains, being present in higher amount in Cyanobium sp. LEGE 07175 (53.08 μg mg−1) and Leptothoe sp. LEGE 181156 (47.89 μg mg−1), respectively. The same strains also showed the highest values for collagenase inhibition at 750 μg mL−1dry extract (32.88 and 36.61%, respectively). Furthermore, Leptothoe sp. LEGE 181156 exhibited the lowest IC50 value for tyrosinase inhibition (465.92 μg mL−1dry extract) and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 presented the best values for elastase inhibition (IC50 of 380.50 and IC25 of 51.43 μg mL−1dry extract). In general, cyanobacteria extracts demonstrated potential for being used for antiaging purposes, with aqueous extracts being more efficient at free radicals scavenging and acetonic ones at avoiding degradation of dermal matrix components.

Design and Evaluation of Complex Polypeptide-Loaded Dissolving Microneedles for Improving Facial Wrinkles in Different Areas

Wrinkles are one of the most intuitive manifestations of skin aging. Complex polypeptide-loaded dissolving microneedles (CP-DMNs) for facial wrinkles in different areas have been developed and evaluated for the first time. In optimizing formulations, we compared the differences in CP-DMNs heights on skin insertion depth and skin repair and healing. Furthermore, systemic safety experiments were carried out to provide a reference for clinical application. On this basis, an 84-day efficacy assessment based on the improvement of facial wrinkles in different areas and a comparison between CP-DMNs vs. placebo was performed on 30 healthy subjects. As a result, DMNs with a height of 300 μm presented sufficient strength to pierce the stratum corneum with minimized skin damage. In addition, CP-DMNs possessed excellent biological safety and skin compatibility for clinical application. Compared with placebo, CP-DMNs exhibited obvious improvements in wrinkles distributed in the corners of eyes, under-eyes, and nasolabial folds. Furthermore, after using CP-DMNs for 84 days, facial wrinkles in five different areas were smoothed. In short, the complex polypeptides showed apparent anti-wrinkle efficacy with the aid of DMNs technology, and CP-DMNs seemed to work better on deeper wrinkles, such as frown lines and nasolabial folds.

The beauty of biocatalysis: sustainable synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics

Covering: 2015 up to July 2021The market for cosmetics is consumer driven and the desire for green, sustainable and natural ingredients is increasing. The use of isolated enzymes and whole-cell organisms to synthesise these products is congruent with these values, especially when combined with the use of renewable, recyclable or waste feedstocks. The literature of biocatalysis for the synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics in the past five years is herein reviewed.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.