An in vitro human assay for evaluating immunogenic and sensitization potential of a personal care and cosmetic product

Innovative Strategies for Photoallergy Assessment: Breaking Free from Animal Models in Cosmetic Ingredient Development

Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro or in silico alternative methods. Currently, there are no validated methods for assessing photoallergy or photosensitization, presenting a significant challenge in the development of new cosmetic ingredients. This review examines the landscape of alternative methods for detecting photosensitization, emphasizing recent publications, and considering the underlying principles of the different proposed assays.

Evaluating the Impact of Hair Care Product Exposure on Hair Follicle and Scalp Health

Human hair follicles traverse the epidermis and dermis, and are comprised of specialised cells including dermal papilla cells (DPCs). DPCs play a critical role in the development and growth of both hair and follicle structure. While exposure of DPCs to undiluted exogenous compounds is unlikely, exposure to diluted compounds is possible should dermal penetration occur. The goal of this study was to evaluate the impact on hair and scalp health following application of a hair care product. Due to the lack of standardised and validated test systems for evaluating hair follicle health, the HairSkin® model, which uses intact human scalp samples, was adapted to evaluate hair follicle and scalp health. Similarly, the Franz diffusion cell assay and matrix-assisted laser desorption ionisation-Fourier transform ion cyclotron resonance (MALDI-FTICR) were adapted to evaluate dermal penetration. The results of this study demonstrate that application of the hair care product does not result in appreciable dermal penetration, suggesting that DPCs are unlikely to be exposed to undiluted product. Additionally, hair follicle health was not impacted following product application. While this study is exploratory, these results suggest that the combination of test systems utilised herein provides valuable insight and warrants further development and validation.

Recent Findings in Azaphilone Pigments

Filamentous fungi are known to biosynthesize an extraordinary range of azaphilones pigments with structural diversity and advantages over vegetal-derived colored natural products such agile and simple cultivation in the lab, acceptance of low-cost substrates, speed yield improvement, and ease of downstream processing. Modern genetic engineering allows industrial production, providing pigments with higher thermostability, water-solubility, and promising bioactivities combined with ecological functions. This review, covering the literature from 2020 onwards, focuses on the state-of-the-art of azaphilone dyes, the global market scenario, new compounds isolated in the period with respective biological activities, and biosynthetic pathways. Furthermore, we discussed the innovations of azaphilone cultivation and extraction techniques, as well as in yield improvement and scale-up. Potential applications in the food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and textile industries were also explored.