Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors

PURPOSE

The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers.

METHODS

Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent contraction all-out test for CF determination. Subsequent verification visits involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, including CF, CF -2 kg, CF -4 kg, and CF -6 kg, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles.

RESULTS

CF, determined from the mean force of last three contractions, was measured at 20.1 ± 5.7 kg, while the end-force at 16.8 ± 5.2 kg. In the verification trials, the mean time to failure at CF was 440 ± 140 s, with only one participant completing the 720 s task. When the load was continuously lowered (-2 kg, -4 kg, and -6 kg), a greater number of participants (38%, 69%, and 92%, respectively) successfully completed the 720 s task. Changes of muscle-oxygen dynamics showed a high variability and could not clearly distinguish between exhaustive and non-exhaustive trials.

CONCLUSIONS

CF, based on the mean force of the last three contractions, failed to reliably predict the highest sustainable work rate. In contrast, determining CF as the end-force of the last three contractions exhibited a stronger link to sustainable work. Caution is advised in interpreting forearm muscle-oxygen dynamics, lacking sensitivity for nuanced metabolic responses during climbing-related tasks.

Muscle strength and endurance in high-level rock climbers

The relative importance of key performance factors is poorly studied in high-level climbers. This study aimed to (1) determine the role of forearm muscle strength and endurance in high-level rock climbing, (2) and provide suitable dynamometric test parameters for muscle endurance assessment in high-level climbers. Six higher elite (redpoint Fr.9a) and eight elite/advanced (redpoint Fr.8a+) climbers performed one finger flexor maximal strength test and three finger endurance tests: a 30 s all-out test and a continuous and intermittent test at 60% of maximal voluntary contraction. Higher elite climbers had higher (p < 0.05) maximal strength, all-out test average force and continuous test force-time integral (all relative to body mass) than the elite/advanced climbers. These parameters correlated significantly (p < 0.05) with climbing performance, which has not been observed so far for continuous test scores. Unlike in previous research, intermittent test force-time integral neither distinguished climbing ability groups nor correlated significantly with climbing performance. Nevertheless, regression models comprising of intermittent and maximal strength test scores more strongly determined climbing performance than models including continuous or all-out test scores. Intermittent muscle endurance is among the performance factors in difficult rock climbing but appears to be less important than maintaining high forces during sustained muscle contractions.

The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention

BACKGROUND

Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies. The relationships between muscular strength and climbing performance, as well as the role of strength in injury prevention, remain to be fully elucidated. This narrative review seeks to discuss the current literature regarding the effect of resistance training in improving maximal strength, muscle hypertrophy, muscular power, and local muscular endurance on climbing performance, and as a strategy to prevent injuries.

MAIN BODY

Since sport climbing requires exerting forces against gravity to maintain grip and move the body along the route, it is generally accepted that a climber`s absolute and relative muscular strength are important for climbing performance. Performance characteristics of forearm flexor muscles (hang-time on ledge, force output, rate of force development, and oxidative capacity) discriminate between climbing performance level, climbing styles, and between climbers and non-climbers. Strength of the hand and wrist flexors, shoulders and upper limbs has gained much attention in the scientific literature, and it has been suggested that both general and specific strength training should be part of a climber`s training program. Furthermore, the ability to generate sub-maximal force in different work-rest ratios has proved useful, in examining finger flexor endurance capacity while trying to mimic real-world climbing demands. Importantly, fingers and shoulders are the most frequent injury locations in climbing. Due to the high mechanical stress and load on the finger flexors, fingerboard and campus board training should be limited in lower-graded climbers. Coaches should address, acknowledge, and screen for amenorrhea and disordered eating in climbers.

CONCLUSION

Structured low-volume high-resistance training, twice per week hanging from small ledges or a fingerboard, is a feasible approach for climbers. The current injury prevention training aims to increase the level of performance through building tolerance to performance-relevant load exposure and promoting this approach in the climbing field.

Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers.

METHODS

A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape.

RESULTS

The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms.

CONCLUSION

Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC.

Ischemic Preconditioning, But Not Priming Exercise, Improves Exercise Performance in Trained Rock Climbers

ABSTRACT

MacDougall, KB, McClean, ZJ, MacIntosh, BR, Fletcher, JR, and Aboodarda, SJ. Ischemic preconditioning, but not priming exercise, improves exercise performance in trained rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 37(11): 2149-2157, 2023-To assess the effects of ischemic preconditioning (IPC) and priming exercise on exercise tolerance and performance fatigability in a rock climbing-specific task, 12 rock climbers completed familiarization and baseline tests, and constant-load hangboarding tests (including 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off at an intensity estimated to be sustained for approximately 5 minutes) under 3 conditions: (a) standardized warm-up (CON), (b) IPC, or (c) a priming warm-up (PRIME). Neuromuscular responses were assessed using the interpolated twitch technique, including maximum isometric voluntary contraction (MVC) of the finger flexors and median nerve stimulation, at baseline and after the performance trial. Muscle oxygenation was measured continuously using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) across exercise. Time to task failure (T lim ) for IPC (316.4 ± 83.1 seconds) was significantly greater than CON (263.6 ± 69.2 seconds) ( p = 0.028), whereas there was no difference between CON and PRIME (258.9 ± 101.8 seconds). At task failure, there were no differences in MVC, single twitch force, or voluntary activation across conditions; however, recovery of MVC and single twitch force after the performance trial was delayed for IPC and PRIME compared with CON ( p < 0.05). Despite differences in T lim , there were no differences in any of the NIRS variables assessed. Overall, despite exercise tolerance being improved by an average of 20.0% after IPC, there were no differences in neuromuscular responses at task failure, which is in line with the notion of a critical threshold of peripheral fatigue. These results indicate that IPC may be a promising precompetition strategy for rock climbers, although further research is warranted to elucidate its mechanism of action.

Comparing low volume of blood flow restricted to high-intensity resistance training of the finger flexors to maintain climbing-specific strength and endurance: a crossover study

Introduction

It is acknowledged that training during recovery periods after injury involves reducing both volume and intensity, often resulting in losses of sport-specific fitness. Therefore, this study aimed to compare the effects of high-intensity training (HIT) and low-intensity training with blood flow restriction (LIT + BFR) of the finger flexors in order to preserve climbing-specific strength and endurance.

Methods

In a crossover design, thirteen intermediate climbers completed two 5-week periods of isometric finger flexors training on a hangboard. The trainings consisted of ten LIT + BFR (30% of max) or HIT sessions (60% of max without BFR) and were undertaken in a randomized order. The training session consisted of 6 unilateral sets of 1 min intermittent hanging at a 7:3 work relief ratio for both hands. Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC), force impulse from the 4 min all out test (W), critical force (CF) and force impulse above the critical force (W') of the finger flexors were assessed before, after the first, and after the second training period, using a climbing-specific dynamometer. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity was estimated from an occlusion test using near-infrared spectroscopy at the same time points.

Results

Both training methods led to maintaining strength and endurance indicators, however, no interaction (P > 0.05) was found between the training methods for any strength or endurance variable. A significant increase (P = 0.002) was found for W, primarily driven by the HIT group (pretest-25078 ± 7584 N.s, post-test-27327 ± 8051 N.s, P = 0.012, Cohen's d = 0.29). There were no significant (P > 0.05) pre- post-test changes for MVC (HIT: Cohen's d = 0.13; LIT + BFR: Cohen's d = -0.10), CF (HIT: Cohen's d = 0.36; LIT + BFR = 0.05), W` (HIT: Cohen's d = -0.03, LIT + BFR = 0.12), and forearm muscle oxidative capacity (HIT: Cohen's d = -0.23; LIT + BFR: Cohen's d = -0.07).

Conclusions

Low volume of BFR and HIT led to similar results, maintaining climbing-specific strength and endurance in lower grade and intermediate climbers. It appears that using BFR training may be an alternative approach after finger injury as low mechanical impact occurs during training.

Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review

Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.

Effects of Forearm Compression Sleeves on Muscle Hemodynamics and Muscular Strength and Endurance Parameters in Sports Climbing: A Randomized, Controlled Crossover Trial

Purpose: Wearing compression garments is a commonly used intervention in sports to improve performance and facilitate recovery. Some evidence supports the use of forearm compression to improve muscle tissue oxygenation and enhance sports climbing performance. However, evidence is lacking for an effect of compression garments on hand grip strength and specific sports climbing performance. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the immediate effects of forearm compression sleeves on muscular strength and endurance of finger flexor muscles in sports climbers.

Materials and Methods: This randomized crossover study included 24 sports climbers who performed one familiarization trial and three subsequent test trials while wearing compression forearm sleeves (COMP), non-compressive placebo forearm sleeves (PLAC), or no forearm sleeves (CON). Test trials consisted of three performance measurements (intermittent hand grip strength and endurance measurements, finger hang, and lap climbing) at intervals of at least 48 h in a randomized order. Muscle oxygenation during hand grip and finger hang measurements was assessed by near-infrared spectroscopy. The maximum blood lactate level, rate of perceived exertion, and forearm muscle pain were also determined directly after the lap climbing trials.

Results: COMP resulted in higher changes in oxy[heme] and tissue oxygen saturation (StO₂) during the deoxygenation (oxy[heme]: COMP –10.7 ± 5.4, PLAC –6.7 ± 4.3, CON –6.9 ± 5.0 [μmol]; p = 0.014, η_p² = 0.263; StO₂: COMP –4.0 ± 2.2, PLAC –3.0 ± 1.4, CON –2.8 ± 1.8 [%]; p = 0.049, η_p² = 0.194) and reoxygenation (oxy [heme]: COMP 10.2 ± 5.3, PLAC 6.0 ± 4.1, CON 6.3 ± 4.9 [μmol]; p = 0.011, η_p² = 0.274; StO₂: COMP 3.5 ± 1.9, PLAC 2.4 ± 1.2, CON 2.3 ± 1.9 [%]; p = 0.028, η_p² = 0.225) phases of hand grip measurements, whereas total [heme] concentrations were not affected. No differences were detected between the conditions for the parameters of peak force and fatigue index in the hand grip, time to failure and hemodynamics in the finger hang, or performance-related parameters in the lap climbing measurements (p ≤ 0.05).

Conclusions: Forearm compression sleeves did not enhance hand grip strength and endurance, sports climbing performance parameters, physiological responses, or perceptual measures. However, they did result in slightly more pronounced changes of oxy [heme] and StO₂ in the deoxygenation and reoxygenation phases during the hand grip strength and endurance measurements.

Optimization of an Intermittent Finger Endurance Test for Climbers Regarding Gender and Deviation in Force and Pulling Time

Performance diagnostics of finger strength is very relevant in climbing. The aim of our study was to find modalities for an intermittent finger flexor muscle endurance test that optimize the correlation of test performance with lead climbing performance. Twenty-seven female and 25 male climbers pulled with 60% MVC and a work-to-rest ratio of 7:2 s on a fingerboard until fatigue. The highest correlations, R = 0.429, were found for women when 9% deviation in the required force and 1 s deviation in the required pulling time was tolerated. For men, the optimum was reached with the same time deviation and a force deviation of 6%, R = 0.691. Together with maximum finger strength the repetitions explained 31.5% of the variance of climbing ability in women and 46.3% in men. Consequences from our results are to tolerate at least 7% force deviation for women and 5% for men and to terminate the finger endurance test quickly after the force falls below the threshold.

Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Relationships With Sport Performance

Purpose

The aim of the study was to evaluate distinct performance indicators and energy system contributions in 3 different, new sport-specific finger flexor muscle exercise tests.

Methods

The tests included the maximal strength test, the all-out test (30 s) as well as the continuous and intermittent muscle endurance test at an intensity equaling 60% of maximal force, which were performed until target force could not be maintained. Gas exchange and blood lactate were measured in 13 experienced climbers during, as well as pre and post the test. The energy contribution (anaerobic alactic, anaerobic lactic, and aerobic) was determined for each test.

Results

The contribution of aerobic metabolism was highest during the intermittent test (59.9 ± 12.0%). During continuous exercise, this was 28.1 ± 15.6%, and in the all-out test, this was 19.4 ± 8.1%. The contribution of anaerobic alactic energy was 27.2 ± 10.0% (intermittent), 54.2 ± 18.3% (continuous), and 62.4 ± 11.3% (all-out), while anaerobic lactic contribution equaled 12.9 ± 6.4, 17.7 ± 8.9, and 18.2 ± 9.9%, respectively.

Conclusion

The combined analysis of performance predictors and metabolic profiles of the climbing test battery indicated that not only maximal grip force, but also all-out isometric contractions are equally decisive physical performance indices of climbing performance. Maximal grip force reflects maximal anaerobic power, while all-out average force and force time integral of constant isometric contraction at 60% of maximal force are functional measures of anaerobic capacity. Aerobic energy demand for the intermittent exercise is dominated aerobic re-phosphorylation of high-energy phosphates. The force-time integral from the intermittent test was not decisive for climbing performance.

Effect of Climbing Speed on Pulmonary Oxygen Uptake and Muscle Oxygen Saturation Dynamics in the Finger Flexors

PURPOSE

Although sport climbing is a self-paced whole-body activity, speed varies with climbing style, and the effect of this on systemic and localized oxygen responses is not well understood. Therefore, the aim of the present study was to determine muscle and pulmonary oxygen responses during submaximal climbing at differing speeds of ascent.

METHODS

Thirty-two intermediate and advanced sport climbers completed three 4-minute-long ascents of the same route at 4, 6, and 9 m·min-1 on a motorized climbing ergometer (treadwall) on separate laboratory visits. Gas analysis and near-infrared spectroscopy were used to determine systemic oxygen uptake (V˙O2) and muscle oxygen saturation (StO2) of the flexor digitorum profundus.

RESULTS

Increases in ascent speed of 1 m·min-1 led to increases of V˙O2 by 2.4 mL·kg-1·min-1 (95% CI, 2.1 to 2.8 mL·kg-1·min-1) and decreases in StO2 by -1.3% (95% CI, 1.9% to -0.7%). There was a significant interaction of climbing ability and speed for StO2 (P < .001, ηp2=.224). The results revealed that the decrease of StO2 was present for intermediate but not advanced climbers.

CONCLUSIONS

In this study, the results suggest that V˙O2 demand during climbing was largely determined by climbing speed; however, the ability level of the climber appeared to mitigate StO2 at a cellular level. Coaches and instructors may prescribe climbing ascents with elevated speed to improve generalized cardiorespiratory fitness. To stimulate localized aerobic capacity, however, climbers should perhaps increase the intensity of training ascents through the manipulation of wall angle or reduction of hold size.

MBboard: Validity and Reliability of a New Tool Developed to Evaluate Specific Strength in Rock Climbers

In the present study, we analysed the validity and reliability of a new tool designed to assist the measurement of maximal upper-limb strength in rock climbers in a specific way, named MBboard. The MBboard consists of an artificial small climbing hold affixed to a wooden board, which is connected to any cable-motion strength equipment to determine the maximum dynamic strength (MBboard-1RM). Ten male rock climbers (Rock Climbing Group, RCG = 10) and ten physically active men (Control Group, CG = 10) performed, on three separate occasions, a familiarization session with procedures adopted during MBboard-1RM testing and two experimental trials (i.e., test and retest) to determine the construct validity and reliability of the MBboard during unilateral seated cable row exercise. In the first trial, the electromyographic activity (EMG) was recorded from the flexor digitorum superficialis. The self-reported climbing ability was also recorded. The RCG had superior performance (i.e. 37.5%) and EMG activity (i.e. 51%) in MBboard-1RM testing when compared with the CG (p < 0.05). There was a significant correlation between the MBboard-1RM results and climbing ability (r > 0.72, p < 0.05). Intraclass correlation coefficient analysis revealed good reliability within trials (ICC > 0.79, p < 0.05). These findings suggest that the MBboard is a valid and reliable tool to assess rock climbing-specific maximal strength. The validity of MBboard-1RM appears to be related to the finger flexor muscles activation, probably reflecting the specific adaptations resulting from long-term practice of this sport discipline.

Augmented muscle glycogen utilization following a single session of sprint training in hypoxia

PURPOSE

This study determined the effect of a single session of sprint interval training in hypoxia on muscle glycogen content among athletes.

METHODS

Ten male college track and field sprinters (mean ± standard error of the mean: age, 21.1 ± 0.2 years; height, 177 ± 2 cm; body weight, 67 ± 2 kg) performed two exercise trials under either hypoxia [HYPO; fraction of inspired oxygen (F_iO₂), 14.5%] or normoxia (NOR: F_iO₂, 20.9%). The exercise consisted of 3 × 30 s maximal cycle sprints with 8-min rest periods between sets. Before and immediately after the exercise, the muscle glycogen content was measured using carbon magnetic resonance spectroscopy in vastus lateralis and vastus intermedius muscles. Moreover, power output, blood lactate concentrations, metabolic responses (respiratory oxygen uptake and carbon dioxide output), and muscle oxygenation were evaluated.

RESULTS

Exercise significantly decreased muscle glycogen content in both trials (interaction, P = 0.03; main effect for time, P < 0.01). Relative changes in muscle glycogen content following exercise were significantly higher in the HYPO trial (- 43.5 ± 0.4%) than in the NOR trial (- 34.0 ± 0.3%; P < 0.01). The mean power output did not significantly differ between the two trials (P = 0.80). The blood lactate concentration after exercise was not significantly different between trials (P = 0.31).

CONCLUSION

A single session of sprint interval training (3 × 30 s sprints) in hypoxia caused a greater decrease in muscle glycogen content compared with the same exercise under normoxia without interfering with the power output.

Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial

Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these protocols was superior. We prospectively analyzed 30 intermediate to advanced climbing athletes [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) VI–VIII] and randomized them into three groups: control group C (Control, normal climbing training), hangboard group HE (Hang endurance, grips to hold for a determined time decreased every week), and hangboard group HW (Hang weight, + 1.25 kg weight were added each week to hold for a determined time). As endpoints, we measured the grip strength before and after an 8-week training protocol in seven different pinches. Over the 8-week training period, HW hangboard training significantly improved the climbers’ grip strength compared to C [p = 0.032, effect size (ES) 0.36]. Maximizing weight improved the strength in I/II + III, I/II + III + IV and fist significantly. HW was superior compared to C in terms of grip strength improvement in three out of seven pinches and overall grip strength. The overall changes in the HE group did not differ significantly from the C group. An 8-week training protocol with increasing weights (HW) significantly improved overall grip strength more than a regular climbing training without the use of a hangboard.

The Effects of Prioritizing Lead or Boulder Climbing Among Intermediate Climbers

This study compared the effects of prioritizing lead climbing or boulder climbing on climbing-specific strength and endurance, as well as climbing performance. Fourteen active climbers were randomized to a boulder climbing training group (BCT: age = 27.2 ± 4.4 years, body mass = 65.8 ± 5.5 kg, height = 173.3 ± 3.8 cm) or a lead-climbing training group (LCT: age = 27.7 ± 6.1 years, body mass = 70.2 ± 4.4 kg, height = 177.7 ± 4.4 cm). The groups participated in a 5-week training period consisting of 15 sessions, performing either two weekly bouldering sessions and one maintenance-session of lead-climbing (BCT) or two weekly lead-climbing sessions and one maintenance-session of bouldering (LCT). Pre- and post-training, maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during isometric pull-ups performed on a jug hold and a shallow rung, and during an isolated finger-strength test. Lead-climbing and bouldering performance were also measured, along with an intermittent forearm endurance test. The pre-to-post changes were not significantly different between the groups for any of the parameters (P = 0.062-0.710). However, both the BCT (ES = 0.30, P = 0.049) and LCT (ES = 0.41, P = 0.046) groups improved strength in the isometric pull-up performed using the jug, whereas neither group improved force in the rung condition (P = 0.054 and P = 0.084) or RFD (P = 0.060 and P = 0.070). Furthermore, climbing and bouldering performance remained unchanged in both groups (P = 0.210-0.895). The LCT group improved forearm endurance (ES = 0.55, P = 0.007), while the BCT group improved isolated finger strength (ES = 0.35, P = 0.015). In addition to isometric pull-up strength, bouldering can increase isolated finger strength while lead-climbing may improve forearm endurance. A 5-week period prioritizing one discipline can be safely implemented for advanced to intermediate climbers without risking declined performance in the non-prioritized discipline.

An All-Out Test to Determine Finger Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

PURPOSE

The fatigue resistance of the finger flexors is known to be a key determinant of climbing performance. This study set out to establish the association between the single all-out assessment of finger flexor critical force (ff-CF) and the impulse above CF (W') on climbing performance (self-reported sport and boulder climbing ability).

METHODS

A total of 129 subjects completed an assessment of dominant arm ff-CF, comprised of a series of rhythmic isometric maximum voluntary contractions (CF defined as mean end-test force [in kilograms]; W' impulse above CF [in kilogram second]).

RESULTS

The ff-CF protocol resulted in the same force decay to a plateau seen in previous isometric critical torque and critical force tests. Linear regression analysis, adjusting for sex, revealed that CF percentage of body mass explained 61% of sport and 26% of bouldering performance and W' per kilogram body mass explained 7% sport and 34% bouldering performance. A combined model of CF as a percentage of body mass and W' per kilogram body mass, after adjustment for sex differences, was able to explain 66% of sport climbing and 44% of bouldering performance.

CONCLUSIONS

The results illustrate the relevance of the CF threshold in describing the fatigue resistance of the finger flexors of rock climbers. Given ff-CF ability to describe a considerable proportion of variance in sport climbing and bouldering ability, the authors expect it to become a common test used by coaches for understanding exercise tolerance and for determining optimal training prescription.

Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

PURPOSE

Sport climbing requires high-intensity finger flexor contractions, along with a substantial whole-body systemic oxygen uptake ([Formula: see text]O₂) contribution. Although fatigue is often localised to the finger flexors, the role of systemic ̇[Formula: see text]O₂ and local aerobic mechanisms in climbing performance remains unclear. As such, the primary purpose of this study was to determine systemic and local muscle oxygen responses during both isolated finger flexion and incremental exhaustive whole-body climbing tests. The secondary aim was to determine the relationship of isolated and whole-body climbing endurance tests to climbing ability.

METHODS

Twenty-two male sport climbers completed a series of isometric sustained and intermittent forearm flexor contractions, and an exhaustive climbing test with progressive steepening of the wall angle on a motorised climbing ergometer. Systemic [Formula: see text]O₂ and flexor digitorum profundus oxygen saturation (StO₂) were recorded using portable metabolic analyser and near-infra red spectroscopy, respectively.

RESULTS

Muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) was identifiable during an incremental exhaustive climbing test with progressive increases in angle (82 ± 8% and 88 ± 8% [Formula: see text]O₂ and heart rate climbing peak). The peak angle from whole-body treadwall test and impulse from isolated hangboard endurance tests were interrelated (R² = 0.58-0.64). Peak climbing angle together with mean [Formula: see text]O₂ and StO₂ from submaximal climbing explained 83% of variance in self-reported climbing ability.

CONCLUSIONS

Both systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics determine climbing-specific endurance. Exhaustive climbing and isolated finger flexion endurance tests are interrelated and suitable to assess climbing-specific endurance. An exhaustive climbing test with progressive wall angle allows determination of the MOB.

New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers

Anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) may improve forearm muscle oxygenation and enhance performance in high-level rock climbers. As such, using a double-blind, randomised, cross-over design study, twelve participants performed an oxidative capacity assessment, and two successive exhaustive exercise trials (submaximal forearm muscle contractions at 60% of their maximal volitional contraction). Each visit was conducted following 7-days intake of 600 mg·day^-1 NZBC extract or placebo. Oxidative capacity was estimated by calculating the oxygen half time recovery using near infrared spectroscopy. Time to exhaustion (s), impulse (kg·s), and minimum tissue saturation index (min-TSI %) were assessed during both the exercise trials. Muscle oxidative capacity was greater with NZBC (mean difference [MD] = 5.3 s, 95% confidence intervals [95% CI] = 0.4-10.2 s; p = 0.036; Cohen's d = 0.94). During the exercise trials, there was an interaction for min-TSI % (time x condition, p = 0.046; ηp2= 0.372), which indicated a greater level of oxygen extraction during trial two with NZBC extract (MD = 9%, 95% CI = 2-15%) compared to the placebo (MD = 2%, 95% CI = 1-7%). There was a decrease in time to exhaustion (p <0.001, ηp2 = 0.693) and impulse (p = 0.001, ηp2 = 0.672) in exercise trial two, with no effect of NZBC extract. In high-level rock climbers 7-days NZBC extract improves forearm muscle oxygenation with no effect on isolated forearm muscle performance.

The finger flexors occlusion threshold in sport-climbers: an exploratory study on its indirect approximation

Blood flow partially determines specific climbing endurance (SCE) as it mediates oxygen bio-availability in the finger flexors. Blood flow is related to occlusion threshold (OT), which is defined as the contraction intensity at which intramuscular pressure exceeds perfusion blood pressure resulting in the cessation of local blood flow. The OT is represented as an inflection point on a force-time graph when isometric force is registered and applied through maximal and continuous tests. Endurance time (ET) to exhaustion is influenced by the relative isometric applied force and is different for each climber. The aim of this study was to explore whether an approximation of the finger flexoŕs OT in sport climbers through records of ET to exhaustion at different isometric relative intensities was possible. We measured maximum finger hang ETs at 6 intensities ranging from 85% to 35% maximal force in 34 sport climbers of advanced and elite level. The values obtained were analysed by two different methods in an attempt to determine a change in the shape of the curve in the intensity-ET relationship graphs that approximated the OT for each climber. The results suggest that the finger flexoŕs OT could be different among climbers, regardless of their strength and ability level. The presented methods do not accurately reflect the OT, but could indicate the intensity at which blood flow is restored in the active muscles. This is the first study to indirectly approximate the finger flexors OT in sport-climbers, a parameter that could be essential to assess SCE.

New Zealand Blackcurrant Extract Enhances Muscle Oxygenation During Forearm Exercise in Intermediate-Level Rock Climbers

The delivery to and utilization of oxygenated hemoglobin to the forearm muscles are key determinants of rock-climbing performance. Anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) has been suggested to improve blood flow and may enhance forearm endurance performance. As such, a double-blind, randomized crossover design study with 12 participants performed submaximal intermittent contractions (at 40% maximal voluntary contraction) to failure after a 7-day intake of 600 mg/day NZBC extract or placebo. Minimum tissue saturation index (TSI%) was assessed during the contractions. During recovery, time to half recovery of TSI% and brachial artery blood flow were assessed. There was no difference in time to exhaustion between NZBC and placebo. Minimum TSI% was lower with NZBC extract (43 ± 8 vs. 50 ± 11 TSI%; p = .007; Cohen's d = 1.01). During recovery, there was no effect on brachial artery blood flow. However, time to half recovery was faster with NZBC (26 ± 17 vs. 42 ± 26 s; p = .001; Cohen's d = 1.3) following exhaustive contractions. Seven days of NZBC extract appears to improve muscle oxygenation during and following contractions with no change in either arterial blood flow or forearm endurance performance.

Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities

The aim of this study was to measure muscle oxygen saturation (SmO₂) dynamics during a climbing specific task until failure in varying conditions. Our prediction was that SmO₂ should be a good marker to predict task failure. Eleven elite level climbers performed a finger-hang test on a 23 mm wooden rung under four different weighted conditions, 1. body weight (BW), 2. body weight +20% (BW +20), 3. body weight −20% (BW −20) and 4. body weight −40% (BW −40), maintaining half crimp grip until voluntary exhaustion. During each trial SmO₂ and time to task failure (TTF) were measured. TTF was then compared to the minimally attainable value of SmO₂ (SmO₂min) and time to SmO₂min (TTmin). There is a considerable degree of agreement between attainable SmO₂min at high intensity conditions (M_BW = 21.6% ± 6.4; M_BW+20 = 24.0% ± 7.0; M_BW−20 = 23.0% ± 7.3). Bland-Altman plot with an a priori set equivalency interval of ±5% indicate that these conditions are statistically not different (M_{BW-BW + 20} = −2.4%, 95% CI [1.4, −6.2]; M_BW−Bw−20 = −1.3, 95% CI [2.5, −5.1]). The fourth and lowest intensity condition (M_{BW −40} = 32.4% ± 8.8) was statistically different and not equivalent (M_{BW-BW −40} = −8.8%, 95% CI [−5.0, −12.6]). The same agreement was found between TTF and TTmin for the high intensity conditions plotted via Bland-Altman. While the rate with which oxygen was extracted and utilised changed with the conditions, the attainable SmO₂min remained constant at high intensity conditions and was related to TTF.

Comparison of Two NIRS Tissue Oximeters (Moxy and Nimo) for Non-Invasive Assessment of Muscle Oxygenation and Perfusion

BACKGROUND

Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) tissue oximeters enable non-invasive measurement of muscle oxygenation and perfusion. Several NIRS oximeters are currently available, particularly for muscle measurements.

AIM

To evaluate the agreement of oxygenation and perfusion measurements obtained by two devices (Moxy, Fortiori Designs LLC, USA, and Nimo, Nirox, Italy) during an arterial occlusion test on the arm.

SUBJECT AND METHODS

Arterial occlusions were conducted at the arm of one individual for 10 min with 200 mmHg. Measurements were made twice a day on five different days. Both NIRS devices were fixed at the arm (covering the muscles extensor carpi ulnaris, extensor digitorum, and flexor carpi ulnaris).

RESULTS

The experiment revealed that i) both devices could detect changes in muscle oxygenation and perfusion during the occlusion, but ii) the magnitudes and dynamic changes differed between the two devices.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

Both devices had different performances with regard to the measurement of tissue oxygenation and perfusion. This study shows that it might be worthwhile to compare all NIRS tissue oximeters currently available for muscle measurement in a large systematic study to increase the comparability of measurements obtained with different devices.

Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers

Albeit differences in climbing-specific strength of the forearms have been demonstrated between lead and boulder climbers, little is known about the potential differences in force and power output of the upper body pulling-apparatus between disciplines. The aim of this study was to compare the climbing-specific upper-body strength and finger flexor endurance between lead and boulder climbers, as well as to examine the relative utilization of force when testing on a ledge hold compared to a jug hold. Sixteen boulder climbers (red-point climbing grade 17.9 ± 3.3) and fifteen lead climbers (red-point climbing grade 20.5 ± 3.5) performing on an advanced level volunteered for the study. Peak force, average force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during an isometric pull-up, average velocity in dynamic pull-up, and finger flexor endurance in an intermittent test to fatigue. The isometric pull-up was performed on a ledge hold (high finger strength requirements) and on a jug hold (very low finger strength requirements). Boulder climbers demonstrated a higher maximal and explosive strength in all strength and power measurements (26.2–52.9%, ES = 0.90–1.12, p = 0.006–0.023), whereas the finger flexor endurance test showed no significant difference between the groups (p = 0.088). Both groups were able to utilize 57–69% of peak force, average force and RFD in the ledge condition compared to the jug condition, but the relative utilization was not different between the groups (p = 0.290–0.996). In conclusion, boulder climbers were stronger and more explosive compared to lead climbers, whereas no differences in finger flexor endurance were observed. Performing climbing-specific tests on a smaller hold appears to limit the force and power output equally between the two groups.

Effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on sport climbing performance

PURPOSE

Blood flow to skeletal muscles and removal of metabolic by-products during a sport climb are essential to optimise performance and recovery. New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) extract has enhanced blood flow and performance in other exercise modalities. We examined the effect of NZBC extract on sport climbing performance and recovery.

METHODS

The study employed a double-blind, randomised, crossover design. Male sport climbers (n = 18, age 24 ± 6 years, height 179 ± 6 cm, mass 71.4 ± 7.8 kg, French grade 6a-8b) undertook 7 days supplementation of NZBC extract (600 mg day^-1 CurraNZ™ containing 210 mg anthocyanins) or a placebo (PL). Climbing ability was assessed through hang time (HT), pull-ups and total climbing time (TCT) in 3 intermittent climbing bouts on a Treadwall M6 rotating climbing wall to exhaustion with 20 min recovery between climbs. Heart rate (HR), blood lactate (BL), forearm girth (FG) and hand grip strength (HGS) were recorded.

RESULTS

NZBC extract had no effect on pull-ups but provided a trend for higher HT and significantly improved TCT (+23%) compared to PL (-11%) over three climbs. HR, BL, FG and HGS all indicated that 20 min was insufficient for physiological recovery between the three climbing bouts indicating accumulative fatigue regardless of supplement condition.

CONCLUSION

Despite indices of progressive fatigue across three bouts of climbing, NZBC extract facilitated not only a maintenance of TCT but an improved climbing endurance as compared with the PL condition. Blackcurrant anthocyanin-derived metabolites seem to affect physiological responses that facilitate sport climbing performance.

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

Purpose:To determine if the mathematical model used for the estimation of critical force (CF) and the energy store componentW′ are applicable to intermittent isometric muscle actions of the finger flexors of rock climbers, using a multisession test. As a secondary aim, the agreement of estimates of CF andW′ from a single-session test was also determined. The CF was defined as the slope coefficient, andW′ was the intercept of the linear relationship between total “isometric work” (Wlim) and time to exhaustion (Tlim).Methods:Subjects performed 3 (separated by either 20 min or >24 h) tests to failure using intermittent isometric finger-flexor contractions at 45%, 60%, and 80% of their maximum voluntary contraction.Results:Force plotted againstTlimdisplayed a hyperbolic relationship; correlation coefficients of the parameter estimates from the work–time CF model were consistently very high (R2 > .94). Climbers’ mean CF was 425.7 (82.8) N (41.0% [6.2%] maximum voluntary contraction) andW′ was 30,882 (11,820) N·s. Good agreement was found between the single-session and multisession protocol for CF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC3,1] = .900; 95% confidence interval, .616–.979), but not forW′ (ICC3,1 = .768; 95% confidence interval, .190–.949).Conclusions:The results demonstrated the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of CF andW′, using equipment readily available in most climbing gyms. Although further work is still necessary, the test of CF described is of value for understanding exercise tolerance and to determine optimal training prescription to monitor improvements in the performance of the finger flexors.

Acute effects of kinesio taping on muscular strength and endurance parameters of the finger flexors in sport climbing: A randomised, controlled crossover trial

Kinesio taping (KT) is a commonly used intervention in sports and, recently, KT has become popular among athletes competing in sport climbing and bouldering events. However, evidence on the effect of KT on grip strength and endurance is still controversial. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to evaluate immediate effects of KT on muscular strength and endurance of the finger flexor muscles in sport climbers. Twenty recreationally-trained active sport climbers (10 men, 10 women) aged 28.5 ± 10.6 years performed one familiarisation trial and subsequently, in a randomised crossover design, two test trials either with (TAPE) or without (CONTROL) KT over the finger flexor muscles. Test trials consisted of three performance measurements (hand grip strength and endurance, finger hang, and lap climbing) at intervals of 48 h in a randomised order. We observed no significant differences in the parameters of hand grip peak force, fatigue index, finger hang time, lap climbing distance and time, or maximum blood lactate values after lap climbing between the TAPE and CONTROL trials (p > 0.05). The participants' climbing ability was significantly correlated with the intra-individual performance changes between the TAPE and CONTROL conditions for the fatigue index (r = -0.598, p = 0.005), but not in any of the other performance-related parameters. Therefore, KT over the finger flexor muscles neither enhanced hand grip strength and endurance nor the sport climbing performance parameters of finger hang, lap climbing distance and time, and maximum blood lactate values after lap climbing.

Hemodynamic and Cardiorespiratory Predictors of Sport Rock Climbing Performance

Fryer, SM, Giles, D, Garrido Palomino, I, de la O Puerta, A, and España-Romero, V. Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. J Strength Cond Res 32(12): 3543-3550, 2018-Rock climbing performance has been suggested to involve a notable contribution from aerobic metabolism. Previously, it has been shown that forearm oxygenation kinetics can be used to distinguish ability groups and predict red-point sport climbing performance. Currently, it is not known if forearm oxygenation kinetics or a sport-specific assessment of cardiorespiratory fitness best predicts sport rock climbing performance. The aim of the study was to determine whether forearm oxidative capacity index, maximal deoxygenation (Δ score) during a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O2peak test, treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O2peak, or running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max best predicts self-reported sport climbing performance. Twenty-one male sport rock climbers completed a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O2peak, running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max, and an assessment of near-infrared spectroscopy-derived oxidative capacity index. Linear regression, adjusted for age and experience (years), revealed that forearm oxidative capacity index, treadwall maximal deoxygenation (Δ), and treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O2peak all significantly predicted self-reported red-point sport climbing ability (Adj R = -0.398, -0.255, and 0.374, respectively), whereas treadmill running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max did not (Adj R = -0.052). Additionally, multiple regression suggested that the combined significant aerobic predictors accounted for 67% of the variance in red-point climbing ability. Findings suggest that training for sport rock climbing performance should look to incorporate modalities that focus on (a) improving local forearm aerobic capacity and (b) improving whole-body aerobic capacity using sport-specific apparatus, such as treadwalls.

Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

PURPOSE

An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability.

METHODS

To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90°) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180° and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF.

RESULTS

The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r² = .48 and r² = .42 for sport climbing; r² = .66 and r² = .42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC] = 0.94, ICC = 0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 ± 112 N) than without AF (546 ± 132 N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC = 0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r² = .42) and bouldering ability (r² = .58).

CONCLUSION

Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.

TEST-retest reliability of kinetic variables measured on campus board in sport climbers

Sport climbers frequently use campus board (CB) to improve their upper limb strength under similar conditions of high-difficulty sport climbing routes. The objective of this study was to assess the test-retest reliability of peak force and impulse measured using a CB instrumented with two load cells on starting holds. The same evaluator examined 22 climbers on two days with 48 h between the assessments. The participants performed five concentric lunges (CL) and five lunges with stretch-shortening cycle with 1 min intervals between repetitions and 10 min between exercises. All variables were associated with significant intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) values (p = 0.001), and none variable showed systematic errors (p > 0.05). Peak force ICC was higher than 0.88, and the standard error of measurement (SEM%) was less than 5%. Impulse ICC for the CL was greater than 0.90, and the SEM% was less than 14%. We conclude that the kinetic variables measured using the CB were reliable. The ability of the hands to maintain contact with the holds (peak force) and the abilities of the arms and shoulders vertically move the centre of mass (impulse) should be taken into account by coaches on CB training prescription as well for further research.

The effects of 8 weeks of two different training methods on on-sight lead climbing performance

BACKGROUND

Despite climbing being an increasingly popular sporting pursuit, there have been very few scientific evaluations of appropriate training methods for competitive climbers. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of an 8-week climbing-specific muscular hypertrophy (MH) or muscular endurance (ME) resistance training program on the on-sight lead climbing performance in a similar setting to a World Cup.

METHODS

Twenty-three elite male and female climbers (age: 25.5±6.7 years; height: 1.72±0.08 m; body mass: 63.4±7.7 kg; measured on-sight level: 20.8±2.0 IRCRA [International Rock Climbing Research Association]) participated in 8 weeks' worth of MH (N.=11) or ME (N.=12) training. Before the training (FT1), after 8 weeks of training (FT2), and after a 2-week tapering period (FT3), the participants climbed an on-sight lead route in a similar setting to a world cup.

RESULTS

Climbers were able to perform significantly more moves (P=0.019; P<0.001) and climbed significantly harder (P=0.014; P<0.001) with FT2 and FT3 versus FT1. Climbing moves per unit time increased significantly when comparing FT2 to FT1 (P=0.007) and showed a tendency to increase when comparing FT3 to FT1 (P=0.061). However, there was no interaction effect between the groups.

CONCLUSIONS

Our findings demonstrated that climbing-specific ME, as well as MH resistance training, improved on-sight lead climbing performance in a similar setting to a world cup. For competing climbers and climbing coaches, we recommend inclusion of the same proportions of climbing-specific ME and MH resistance training in their training programs to enhance on-sight lead climbing performance.

The effect of cold ambient temperatures on climbing-specific finger flexor performance

Different ambient temperatures are known to affect muscular performance based on the type of contraction. The effect of cold (10°C) and thermoneutral (TN) (24°C) ambient temperatures on finger flexor performance was examined in 12 rock climbers. After 30 min of seated rest in the designated temperature condition, participants completed maximal voluntary contractions (MVC) on a climbing-specific finger flexor assessment device equipped with a crimp grip hold. Participants then completed an intermittent fatiguing task until failure. The fatiguing task consisted of 10-s contractions at 40% MVC followed by a 3-s of rest. MVC recovery was assessed immediately, 5, 10, and 15 min post-task failure. Estimated muscle temperature and subjective thermal ratings were significantly lower throughout testing in the cold condition (P < .001). Finger flexor MVC strength was similar between conditions at baseline and throughout recovery. Time to task failure was significantly longer (364 ± 135 vs. 251 ± 97 s, P = .003) and force time integral was greater (53,715 ± 19,988 vs. 40,243 ± 15,360 Ns, P = .001) during the cold condition. No significant differences were found between conditions for force variability or electromyography (EMG) at the start and end of the fatiguing task. However, the rate of increase in EMG for the TN condition was significantly faster (P = .03). These results suggest important implications for researchers when examining climbing performance, especially in outdoor settings where temperatures may vary from day to day. Inconsistencies in testing temperatures might significantly affect muscular endurance.

The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing

The aim of this study was to examine the effect of alterations in potential lead fall distance on the hormonal responses of rock climbers. Nine advanced female climbers completed two routes while clipping all (PRO-all) or half (PRO-½) of the fixed points of protection. Venous blood samples were analysed for total catecholamines, noradrenaline (norepinephrine), adrenaline (epinephrine), dopamine, lactate, cortisol and serotonin. Differences between the two conditions pre, immediately post and 15 min post climbing were assessed using a 2 × 3 repeated measures ANOVA. All hormones and blood lactate concentrations increased significantly (P < 0.05) immediately post climb, except for cortisol. Peak cortisol concentrations did not occur until 15 min post ascent. Further, significant interactions between climbing and clipping conditions were found for total catecholamines (890% of basal concentration in PRO-½ vs. 568% in PRO-all), noradrenaline (794% vs. 532%) and dopamine (500% vs. 210%). There were no significant interactions for adrenaline (1920% vs. 1045%), serotonin (150% vs. 127%) or lactate (329% vs. 279%). The study showed a greater catecholamine response with an increase in potential lead fall distance. The most pronounced increases seen in catecholamine concentration were reported for dopamine and noradrenaline.