Poly‐Epsilon‐Caprolactone Nanocapsules Containing Octyl Methoxycinnamate: Preparation and Characterization

Preparation and Characterization of PMMA Particles Incorporating a Chemical Sunscreen Agent for Improvement of UV Protection Ability

UV protection ability is an important concern in the application of sunscreen. Modifying well-known UV filters is one of the most important ways to develop sunscreens. In this study, poly(methyl methacrylate)–ethylhexyl salicylate (PMMA-EHS) particles were prepared via miniemulsion polymerization using a redox initiator at low temperature. Compared with free EHS, the sun protection factor (SPF) value of PMMA-EHS particles was increased by ~40 %, which indicated a significant improvement in UV protection ability from encapsulating EHS in PMMA. Prepared PMMA-EHS particles proved non-leaky in application and can greatly reduce skin irritation by preventing direct contact of EHS with skin.

New probabilistic risk assessment of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate: Comparing the genotoxic effects of trans- and cis-EHMC

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) is a widely used UV filter present in a large number of personal care products (PCPs). Under normal conditions, EHMC occurs in a mixture of two isomers: trans-EHMC and cis-EHMC in a ratio of 99:1. When exposed to sunlight, the trans isomer is transformed to the less stable cis isomer and the efficiency of the UV filter is reduced. To date, the toxicological effects of the cis-EHMC isomer remain largely unknown. We developed a completely new method for preparing cis-EHMC. An EHMC technical mixture was irradiated using a UV lamp and 98% pure cis-EHMC was isolated from the irradiated solution using column chromatography. The genotoxic effects of the isolated cis-EHMC isomer and the nonirradiated trans-EHMC were subsequently measured using two bioassays (SOS chromotest and UmuC test). In the case of trans-EHMC, significant genotoxicity was observed using both bioassays at the highest concentrations (0.5 - 4 mg mL^-1 ). In the case of cis-EHMC, significant genotoxicity was only detected using the UmuC test at concentrations of 0.25 - 1 mg mL^-1 . Based on these results, the NOEC was calculated for both cis- and trans-EHMC, 0.038 and 0.064 mg mL^-1 , respectively. Risk assessment of dermal, oral and inhalation exposure to PCPs containing EHMC was carried out for a female population using probabilistic simulation and by using Quantitative in vitro to in vivo extrapolation (QIVIVE). The risk of cis-EHMC was found to be ∼1.7 times greater than trans-EHMC. In the case of cis-EHMC, a hazard index of 1 was exceeded in the 92nd percentile. Based on the observed differences between the isomers, EHMC application in PCPs requires detailed reassessment. Further exploration of the toxicological effects and properties of cis-EHMC is needed in order to correctly predict risks posed to humans and the environment. © 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. Environ Toxicol 32: 569-580, 2017.

New Hybrid Organic/Inorganic Polysilsesquioxane-Silica Particles as Sunscreens

Effectiveness of organic sunscreens is limited by phototoxicity and degradation. Both of which can be significantly reduced by encapsulation in hollow particles or covalent incorporation into the solid structure of particles, but direct comparisons of the two methods have not been reported. In this study, physical encapsulation and covalent incorporation of sunscreens were compared with 1 mol % salicylate and curcumeroid sunscreens. 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate was physically encapsulated in hollow silica nanoparticles prepared by oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsion polymerizations (E-Sal). Some of these particles were coated with an additional shell or cap of silica to reduce leaking of sunscreen (cap-E-Sal). Covalent incorporation involved co-polymerizing tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) with 0.2 mol % of new salicylate and curcuminoid sunscreen monomers with triethoxsilyl groups. Particles were prepared with the salicylate attached to the silica matrix through single silsesquioxane groups (pendant; P-Sal) and two silsesquioxane groups (bridged; B-Sal). Particles based on a new curcuminoid-bridged monomer were also prepared (B-Curc). Sunscreen leaching, photodegradation, and sunscreen performance were determined for the E-Sal, cap-E-Sal, P-Sal, B-Sal, and B-Curc particles. Covalent attachment, particularly with bridged sunscreen monomers, reduced leaching and photodegradation over physical encapsulation, even with capping.

Elastic liposomes containing benzophenone-3 for sun protection factor enhancement

This work was focused on the loading of benzophenone-3 in elastic liposomes composed of egg phosphatidylcholine and cholesterol, prepared by the Bangham method. Samples were characterized in terms of particle size, polydispersity index (PI), zeta potential, encapsulation efficiency and in vitro photoprotection properties. The extrusion of liposomes loading benzophenone-3 produced reduced-size (100 nm) elastic liposomes with a PI of 0.2. The active was loaded with a concentration of 20.34% (m/m) revealing changes in the ultraviolet properties after loading. On the basis of these results, it can be anticipated that liposomes are able to improve sun protector factor in vitro compared the free active.

Multiparticulate carriers for sun-screening agents

Many molecular sunscreens penetrate into the skin causing photo-allergic and photo-toxic reactions as well as skin irritations establishing an urgent need for the development of a safer sunscreen formulation. The search for active substances, efficient combinations, and the design of novel vehicles or carriers has led to the implementation of new cosmetic systems in contrast to the classic forms such as creams or gels. Amongst various approaches utilized to improve performance of sunscreening agents, the use of multiparticulate delivery systems is gaining increasing attention amongst researchers. Multiparticulate delivery systems can be incorporated into gels, creams, liquids, powders or other formulations, and can release active agents depending on their temperature, moisture, friction, volatility of the entrapped ingredients or time. These systems also have the ability of scattering or reflecting incoming UV radiations and therefore can act as physical sunscreens on their own.

Development of an original method to study drug release from polymeric nanocapsules in the skin

Objectives

This study aimed to investigate the distribution and release profile in the skin of a lipophilic model molecule, octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC), loaded in poly(ε-caprolactone) nanocapsules (NC) by the Franz cell method.

Methods

Nanocapsules were formulated in a hydroxyethylcellulose gel and compared to the same gel containing 5% of free OMC as control. A new extraction method was used to discriminate the OMC still entrapped in the NC from free OMC released in the skin strata. The OMC extraction from the skin was performed using acetonitrile, which broke the NC, or isopropyl myristate, which kept the NC intact.

Key findings

When isopropylmyristate was used to determine the OMC released from NC, the results showed that more than 80% of the OMC was released from the NC at the skin surface after 6 h, whereas only 30% was released in the stratum corneum and epidermis.

Conclusions

It is suggested that the mechanism of release is different at the surface and in viable skin, probably due to the different local environments surrounding the NC. The small amount of OMC that reached the dermis was no longer encapsulated, suggesting that the NC did not reach the dermis. The viable epidermis seemed to be the limiting barrier against NC diffusion into the skin.