Free Solvent Amidation of Ursolic and Oleanolic Acids of Fagraea Fragrans Fruits: Their P-388 Antitumor Activity

In Vitro Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by Fagraea berteroana, a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia)

Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting fractions (FEAE-F0, FEAE-F1, FEAE-F2, and FEAE-F3) were tested on hair follicle dermal papilla cells to determine their cell proliferative activity. Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis enabled gene modulation analysis, while immunostaining of the β-catenin protein was used to follow protein regulation. We found that the plant extracts induced a controlled, dose-dependent cell proliferation. FEAE-F0 simultaneously down-regulated Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 (BMP2) mRNA expression and upregulated Cyclin-D1 (CCND1) gene expression, which suggests an involvement in the regulation of the Wnt and Transforming Growth Factor beta (TGFβ) pathways that control the hair cycle. FEAE-F0 exhibited a 1.34-fold increase of nuclear β-catenin protein. This is indicative of an active hair growth state. Thus, we conclude that FEAE-F0 could be an innovative candidate in hair care, which opens interesting leads to promote the Marquesan cosmetopoeia.

Liquid chromatographic and liquid-liquid chromatographic separation of structural isomeric oleanolic acid and ursolic acid using hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin as additive

Two structural isomeric pentacyclic triterpenes, oleanolic acid and ursolic acid, were considered as the models for the quality control of many traditional Chinese herbal medicines and they have been proved to own important pharmacological activities. In the present work, liquid chromatographic and liquid-liquid chromatographic separation with high peak resolution of structural isomeric oleanolic acid and ursolic acid using hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin as mobile phase additive was successfully achieved, respectively. A high peak resolution, RS=8.143, was achieved for the two structural isomeric compounds by conventional reverse phase high performance liquid chromatography, which was greatly improved compared with the published values. Meanwhile, a biphasic solvent system composed of n-hexane-ethyl acetate-0.1 mol/L hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (9:1:10, v/v) was selected for liquid-liquid chromatography, which provided a high peak resolution, RS = 6.573, for analytical apparatus and Rs = 8.500 for semi-preparative apparatus after optimization by liquid-liquid extractions. Two elution modes including reverse phase mode and normal phase mode were investigated for preparative separation of two acids from crude exact of Eriobotrya japonica Thunb. Furthermore, the inclusion complex between each of the two structural isomers and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin were also investigated for high performance liquid chromatography and liquid-liquid chromatography, respectively, in which formation constants were determined for oleanolic acid and ursolic acid.

A selection of eleven plants used as traditional Polynesian cosmetics and their development potential as anti-aging ingredients, hair growth promoters and whitening products

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

In French Polynesia, embellishment of the hair and skin is an important cultural and everyday practice. Yet, little research has focused on traditional preparations used for beautification in this region and their potential development as innovative cosmetic ingredients.

AIM OF THE STUDY

In this present study we aim to assess and compile the ethnocosmetic potential of plants of French Polynesia to select and further study plants showing the most promise to be developed as anti-aging, anti-blemish and hair care products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A literature analysis of plants of the IECIC list, present in French Polynesia was conducted. The most interesting plants from a cosmetic development standpoint were selected based on four main criteria, i.e. their traditional use in Polynesian cosmetic-related preparations, their biogeographical status, their phytochemistry of cosmetic interest, and lastly their availability and absence from the UICN list. Furthermore, a preliminary screening of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities was also performed on several extracts obtained.

RESULTS

Eleven plants were chosen, and a compilation of multidisciplinary data emphasized each selected plant's potentiality. Traditional allegations showed uses ranging from dermatology such as wound healing or anti-inflammatory properties, to hair growth promoting preparations or even skin ligthening ones. Preliminary screenings were useful in narrowing the number of extracts to study. Literature-based data associated to traditional uses depicted how the remaining plants and plant parts could be developed for targeted cosmetic applications.

CONCLUSIONS

A prospective approach of plants used traditionally for cosmetic purposes in French Polynesia gave insight on their development potential when paired with the appropriate multidisciplinary data. The eleven plants presented show promise in being developed sustainably as natural anti-aging or hair care products and as skin brightening agents.