Intermittent hypoxic exposure does not improve sleep at 4300 m

Impact of 2 days of staging at 2500-4300 m on sleep quality and quantity following subsequent exposure to 4300 m

The impact of 2 days of staging at 2500-4300 m on sleep quality and quantity following subsequent exposure to 4300 m was determined. Forty-eight unacclimatized men and women were randomly assigned to stage for 2 days at one of four altitudes (2500, 3000, 3500, or 4300 m) prior to assessment on the summit of Pikes Peak (4300 m) for 2 days. Volunteers slept for one night at sea level (SL), two nights at respective staging altitudes, and two nights at Pikes Peak. Each wore a pulse oximeter to measure sleep arterial oxygen saturation (sSpO2 , %) and number of desaturations (DeSHr, events/hr) and a wrist motion detector to estimate sleep awakenings (Awak, awakes/hr) and sleep efficiency (Eff, %). Acute mountain sickness (AMS) was assessed using the Environmental Symptoms Questionnaire and daytime SpO2 was assessed after AMS measurements. The mean of all variables for both staging days (STG) and Pikes Peak days (PP) was calculated. The sSpO2 and daytime SpO2 decreased (p < 0.05) from SL during STG in all groups in a dose-dependent manner. During STG, DeSHr were higher (p < 0.05), Eff was lower (p < 0.05), and AMS symptoms were higher (p < 0.05) in the 3500 and 4300 m groups compared to the 2500 and 3000 m groups while Awak did not differ (p > 0.05) between groups. At PP, the sSpO2 , DeSHr, Awak, and Eff were similar among all groups but the 2500 m group had greater AMS symptoms (p < 0.05) than the other groups. Two days of staging at 2500-4300 m induced a similar degree of sleep acclimatization during subsequent ascent to 4300 m but the 2500 m group was not protected against AMS at 4300 m.

Rapid ascents of Mt Everest: normobaric hypoxic preacclimatization

BACKGROUND

Acclimatization to high altitude is time consuming. An expedition to Mt Everest (8848 m) requires roughly 8 weeks. Therefore it seems very attractive to reach the summit within 3 weeks from home, which is currently promised by some expedition tour operators. These rapid ascent expeditions are based on two main components, normobaric hypoxic training (NHT) prior to the expedition and the use of high flow supplemental oxygen (HFSO2). We attempted to assess the relative importance of these two elements.

METHODS

We evaluated the effect of NHT on the basis of the available information of these rapid ascent expeditions and our experiences made during an expedition to Manaslu (8163 m) where we used NHT for preacclimatization. To evaluate the effect of an increased O2 flow rate we calculated its effect at various activity levels at altitudes of 8000 m and above.

RESULTS

So far rapid ascents to Mt Everest have been successful. The participants carried out 8 weeks of NHT, reaching sleeping altitudes = 7100 m and spent at least 300 h in NH. At rest a flow rate of 2 l O2/min is sufficient to keep the partial pressure of inspired oxygen (PIO2) close to 50 mm Hg even at the summit. For ativities of ~80% of the maximum rate of oxygen consumption (VO2max) at the summit 6 l O2/min are required to maintain a PIO2 above 50 mm Hg.

DISCUSSION

NHT for preacclimatization seems to be the decisive element of the offered rapid ascent expeditions. An increased O2 flow rate of 8 l/min is not mandatory for climbing Mt Everest.

CONCLUSIONS

Preacclimatization using normobaric hypoxica (NH) is far more important than the use of HFSO2. We think that NHT will be widely used in the future. The most effective regimen of preacclimatization in NH, the duration of each session and the optimal FIO2 are still unclear and require further study.

Periodic Breathing and Behavioral Awakenings at High Altitude

Objectives. To study the relationship between nocturnal periodic breathing episodes and behavioral awakenings at high altitude. Methods. Observational study. It is 6-day ascent of 4 healthy subjects from Besisahar (760 meters) to Manang (3540 meters) in Nepal in March 2012. A recording pulse oximeter was worn by each subject to measure their oxygen saturation and the presence of periodic breathing continuously through the night. An actigraph was simultaneously worn in order to determine nocturnal behavioral awakenings. There were no interventions. Results. 187-hour sleep at high altitude was analyzed, and of this, 145 hours (78%) had at least one PB event. At high altitude, 10.5% (95% CI 6.5–14.6%) of total sleep time was spent in PB while 15 out of 50 awakenings (30%, 95% CI: 18–45%) occurring at high altitudes were associated with PB (P < 0.001). Conclusions. Our data reveals a higher than expected number of behavioral awakenings associated with PB compared to what would be expected by chance. This suggests that PB likely plays a role in behavioral awakenings at high altitude.

A randomized trial of temazepam versus acetazolamide in high altitude sleep disturbance

This study is the first comparative trial of sleep medications at high altitude. We performed a randomized, double-blind trial of temazepam and acetazolamide at an altitude of 3540 meters. 34 healthy trekkers with self-reports of high-altitude sleep disturbance were randomized to temazepam 7.5 mg or acetazolamide 125 mg taken at bedtime for one night. The primary outcome was sleep quality on a 100 mm visual analog scale. Additional measurements were obtained with actigraphy; pulse oximetry; and questionnaire evaluation of sleep, daytime drowsiness, daytime sleepiness, and acute mountain sickness. Sixteen subjects were randomized to temazepam and 18 to acetazolamide. Sleep quality on the 100 mm visual analog scale was higher for temazepam (59.6, SD 20.1) than acetazolamide (46.2, SD 20.2; p=0.048). Temazepam also demonstrated higher subjective sleep quality on the Groningen Sleep Quality Scale (3.5 vs. 6.8, p=0.009) and sleep depth visual analog scale (60.3 vs. 41.4, p=0.028). The acetazolamide group reported significantly more awakenings to urinate (1.8 vs. 0.5, p=0.007). No difference was found with regards to mean nocturnal oxygen saturation (84.1 vs. 84.4, p=0.57), proportion of the night spent in periodic breathing, relative desaturations, sleep onset latency, awakenings, wake after sleep onset, sleep efficiency, Stanford Sleepiness Scale scores, daytime drowsiness, or change in self-reported Lake Louise Acute Mountain Sickness scores. We conclude that, at current recommended dosing, treatment of high-altitude sleep disturbance with temazepam is associated with increased subjective sleep quality compared to acetazolamide.

Effect of repeated normobaric hypoxia exposures during sleep on acute mountain sickness, exercise performance, and sleep during exposure to terrestrial altitude

There is an expectation that repeated daily exposures to normobaric hypoxia (NH) will induce ventilatory acclimatization and lessen acute mountain sickness (AMS) and the exercise performance decrement during subsequent hypobaric hypoxia (HH) exposure. However, this notion has not been tested objectively. Healthy, unacclimatized sea-level (SL) residents slept for 7.5 h each night for 7 consecutive nights in hypoxia rooms under NH [ n = 14, 24 ± 5 (SD) yr] or “sham” ( n = 9, 25 ± 6 yr) conditions. The ambient percent O2 for the NH group was progressively reduced by 0.3% [150 m equivalent (equiv)] each night from 16.2% (2,200 m equiv) on night 1 to 14.4% (3,100 m equiv) on night 7, while that for the ventilatory- and exercise-matched sham group remained at 20.9%. Beginning at 25 h after sham or NH treatment, all subjects ascended and lived for 5 days at HH (4,300 m). End-tidal Pco2, O2 saturation (SaO2), AMS, and heart rate were measured repeatedly during daytime rest, sleep, or exercise (11.3-km treadmill time trial). From pre- to posttreatment at SL, resting end-tidal Pco2 decreased ( P < 0.01) for the NH (from 39 ± 3 to 35 ± 3 mmHg), but not for the sham (from 39 ± 2 to 38 ± 3 mmHg), group. Throughout HH, only sleep SaO2 was higher (80 ± 1 vs. 76 ± 1%, P < 0.05) and only AMS upon awakening was lower (0.34 ± 0.12 vs. 0.83 ± 0.14, P < 0.02) in the NH than the sham group; no other between-group rest, sleep, or exercise differences were observed at HH. These results indicate that the ventilatory acclimatization induced by NH sleep was primarily expressed during HH sleep. Under HH conditions, the higher sleep SaO2 may have contributed to a lessening of AMS upon awakening but had no impact on AMS or exercise performance for the remainder of each day.

High-altitude illnesses: physiology, risk factors, prevention, and treatment

High-altitude illnesses encompass the pulmonary and cerebral syndromes that occur in non-acclimatized individuals after rapid ascent to high altitude. The most common syndrome is acute mountain sickness (AMS) which usually begins within a few hours of ascent and typically consists of headache variably accompanied by loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting, disturbed sleep, fatigue, and dizziness. With millions of travelers journeying to high altitudes every year and sleeping above 2,500 m, acute mountain sickness is a wide-spread clinical condition. Risk factors include home elevation, maximum altitude, sleeping altitude, rate of ascent, latitude, age, gender, physical condition, intensity of exercise, pre-acclimatization, genetic make-up, and pre-existing diseases. At higher altitudes, sleep disturbances may become more profound, mental performance is impaired, and weight loss may occur. If ascent is rapid, acetazolamide can reduce the risk of developing AMS, although a number of high-altitude travelers taking acetazolamide will still develop symptoms. Ibuprofen can be effective for headache. Symptoms can be rapidly relieved by descent, and descent is mandatory, if at all possible, for the management of the potentially fatal syndromes of high-altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema. The purpose of this review is to combine a discussion of specific risk factors, prevention, and treatment options with a summary of the basic physiologic responses to the hypoxia of altitude to provide a context for managing high-altitude illnesses and advising the non-acclimatized high-altitude traveler.