Apple Extract (Malus sp.) and Rutin as Photochemopreventive Agents: Evaluation of Ultraviolet B-Induced Alterations on Skin Biopsies and Tissue-Engineered Skin

Enzymatically modified isoquercitrin and its protective effects against photoaging: In-vitro and clinical studies

This research examines the anti-aging potential of the flavonoid derivative of isoquercitrin known as enzymatically modified isoquercitrin (EMIQ). Initial HPLC analyses showed that EMIQ used in the study contained 1-12 glucosides and 10.7% pentahydroxyflavonoids, promising potent antioxidant properties. In subsequent in-vitro studies with UVA-exposed human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa), EMIQ demonstrated protective properties by reducing collagen damage. It modulated both the TGFβ/Smad pathway and the MMP1 pathway, contributing to collagen preservation. This protective effect was further confirmed using the T-Skin™ model, a reconstructed full-thickness human skin model, which illustrated that EMIQ could defend the physiological structures of both the epidermis and dermis against UV radiation. A 28-day clinical trial with 30 volunteers aged 31-55 years highlighted EMIQ's effectiveness. Participants using EMIQ-containing Essence displayed reduced facial trans-epidermal water loss and skin roughness, alongside improved skin elasticity. This study emphasizes EMIQ's potential as an anti-photoaging ingredient in cosmetics, warranting further research. The findings pave the way for developing innovative skincare products addressing photoaging effects.

Antiphotoaging and Skin-Protective Activities of Ardisia silvestris Ethanol Extract in Human Keratinocytes

Ardisia silvestris is a traditional medicinal herb used in Vietnam and several other countries. However, the skin-protective properties of A. silvestris ethanol extract (As-EE) have not been evaluated. Human keratinocytes form the outermost barrier of the skin and are the main target of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV exposure causes skin photoaging via the production of reactive oxygen species. Protection from photoaging is thus a key component of dermatological and cosmetic products. In this research, we found that As-EE can prevent UV-induced skin aging and cell death as well as enhance the barrier effect of the skin. First, the radical-scavenging ability of As-EE was checked using DPPH, ABTS, TPC, CUPRAC, and FRAP assays, and a 3-(4-5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2-5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide assay was used to examine cytotoxicity. Reporter gene assays were used to determine the doses that affect skin-barrier-related genes. A luciferase assay was used to identify possible transcription factors. The anti-photoaging mechanism of As-EE was investigated by determining correlated signaling pathways using immunoblotting analyses. As-EE had no harmful effects on HaCaT cells, according to our findings, and As-EE revealed moderate radical-scavenging ability. With high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis, rutin was found to be one of the major components. In addition, As-EE enhanced the expression levels of hyaluronic acid synthase-1 and occludin in HaCaT cells. Moreover, As-EE dose-dependently up-regulated the production of occludin and transglutaminase-1 after suppression caused by UVB blocking the activator protein-1 signaling pathway, in particular, the extracellular response kinase and c-Jun N-terminal kinase. Our findings suggest that As-EE may have anti-photoaging effects by regulating mitogen-activated protein kinase, which is good news for the cosmetics and dermatology sectors.

The Self-Assembled Skin Substitute History: Successes, Challenges, and Current Treatment Indications

The self-assembled skin substitute (SASS) is an autologous bilayered skin substitute designed by our academic laboratory, the Laboratoire d'Organogenèse Expérimentale (LOEX) to offer definitive treatment for patients lacking donor sites (unwounded skin) to cover their burn wounds. This product shows skin-like attributes, such as an autologous dermal and epidermal layer, and is easily manipulable by the surgeon. Its development stems from the need for skin replacement in high total body surface area burned survivors presenting few donor sites for standard split-thickness skin grafting. This review aims to present the history, successes, challenges, and current therapeutic indications of this skin substitute. We review the product's development history, before discussing current production techniques, as well as clinical use. The progression observed since the initial SASS production technique described in 1999, up to the most recent technique expresses significant advances made in the technical aspect of our product, such as the reduction of the production time. We then explore the efficacy and benefits of SASS over existing skin substitutes and discuss the outcomes of a recent study focusing on the successful treatment of 14 patients. Moreover, an ongoing cross-Canada study is further assessing the product's safety and efficacy. The limitations and technical challenges of SASS are also discussed.

Photoprotective effect of solid lipid nanoparticles of rutin against UVB radiation damage on skin biopsies and tissue-engineered skin

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) containing rutin were prepared to enhance their photochemopreventive effect on the skin. SLNs were produced by the hot melt microemulsion technique. Two 3D skin models: ex vivo skin explants and 3D tissue engineering skin were used to evaluate the photochemopreventive effect of topical formulations containing rutin SLNs, against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, inducing sunburn cells, caspase-3, cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, lipid peroxidation, and metalloproteinase formation. The rutin SLNs presented average size of 74.22 ± 2.77 nm, polydispersion index of 0.16 ± 0.04, encapsulation efficiency of 98.90 ± 0.25%, and zeta potential of -53.0 ± 1.61 mV. The rutin SLNs were able to efficiently protect against UVB induced in the analysed parameters in both skin models. Furthermore, the rutin SLNs inhibited lipid peroxidation and metalloproteinase formation. These results support the use of rutin SLNs as skin photochemopreventive agents for topical application to the skin.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

MMP-9 and IL-1β as Targets for Diatoxanthin and Related Microalgal Pigments: Potential Chemopreventive and Photoprotective Agents

Photochemoprevention can be a valuable approach to counteract the damaging effects of environmental stressors (e.g., UV radiations) on the skin. Pigments are bioactive molecules, greatly attractive for biotechnological purposes, and with promising applications for human health. In this context, marine microalgae are a valuable alternative and eco-sustainable source of pigments that still need to be taken advantage of. In this study, a comparative in vitro photochemopreventive effects of twenty marine pigments on carcinogenic melanoma model cell B16F0 from UV-induced injury was setup. Pigment modulation of the intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) concentration and extracellular release of nitric oxide (NO) was investigated. At the cell signaling level, interleukin 1-β (IL-1β) and matrix metallopeptidase 9 protein (MMP-9) protein expression was examined. These processes are known to be involved in the signaling pathway, from UV stress to cancer induction. Diatoxanthin resulted the best performing pigment in lowering MMP-9 levels and was able to strongly lower IL-1β. This study highlights the pronounced bioactivity of the exclusively aquatic carotenoid diatoxanthin, among the others. It is suggested increasing research efforts on this molecule, emphasizing that a deeper integration of plant ecophysiological studies into a biotechnological context could improve the exploration and exploitation of bioactive natural products.