A novel microbial technique for producing high-quality sophorolipids from horse oil suitable for cosmetic applications

Characteristics of Purified Horse Oil by Supercritical Fluid Extraction with Different Deodorants Agents

This study investigated the impact of activated carbon, palm activated carbon, and zeolite on horse oil (HO) extracted from horse neck fat using supercritical fluid extraction with deodorant-untreated HO (CON) as a comparison. The yield and lipid oxidation of deodorant untreated HO (CON) were not significantly affected by the three deodorants. However, deodorant-treated HOs exhibited significantly elevated levels of α-linolenic acid (C18:3n3) and eicosenoic acid (C20:1n9) compared to CON (p<0.05), while other fatty acids remained consistent. Zeolite-purified HO demonstrated significantly lower levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) than other treatments (p<0.05). Remarkably, zeolite decreased the concentration of pentane, 2,3-dimethyl (gasoline odor), by over 90%, from 177.17 A.U. ×106 in CON to 15.91 A.U. ×106. Zeolite also effectively eliminates sec-butylamine (ammonia and fishy odor) as compared to other deodorant-treated HOs (p<0.05). Additionally, zeolite reduced VOCs associated with the fruity citrus flavor, such as nonanal, octanal, and D-limonene in HO (p<0.05). This study suggests that integrating zeolite in supercritical fluid extraction enhances HO purification by effectively eliminating undesirable VOCs, presenting a valuable approach for producing high-quality HO production in the cosmetic and functional food industries.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Recent advances and discoveries of microbial-based glycolipids: Prospective alternative for remediation activities

Surfactants have always been a prominent chemical that is useful in various sectors (e.g., cleaning agent production industry, textile industry and painting industry). This is due to the special ability of surfactants to reduce surface tension between two fluid surfaces (e.g., water and oil). However, the current society has long omitted the harmful effects of petroleum-based surfactants (e.g., health issues towards humans and reducing cleaning ability of water bodies) due to their usefulness in reducing surface tension. These harmful effects will significantly damage the environment and negatively affect human health. As such, there is an urgency to secure environmentally friendly alternatives such as glycolipids to reduce the effects of these synthetic surfactants. Glycolipids is a biomolecule that shares similar properties with surfactants that are naturally synthesized in the cell of living organisms, glycolipids are amphiphilic in nature and can form micelles when glycolipid molecules clump together, reducing surface tension between two surfaces as how a surfactant molecule is able to achieve. This review paper aims to provide a comprehensive study on the recent advances in bacteria cultivation for glycolipids production and current lab scale applications of glycolipids (e.g., medical and waste bioremediation). Studies have proven that glycolipids are effective anti-microbial agents, subsequently leading to an excellent anti-biofilm forming agent. Heavy metal and hydrocarbon contaminated soil can also be bioremediated via the use of glycolipids. The major hurdle in the commercialization of glycolipid production is that the cultivation stage and downstream extraction stage of the glycolipid production process induces a very high operating cost. This review provides several solutions to overcome this issue for glycolipid production for the commercialization of glycolipids (e.g., developing new cultivating and extraction techniques, using waste as cultivation medium for microbes and identifying new strains for glycolipid production). The contribution of this review aims to serve as a future guideline for researchers that are dealing with glycolipid biosurfactants by providing an in-depth review on the recent advances of glycolipid biosurfactants. By summarizing the points discussed as above, it is recommended that glycolipids can substitute synthetic surfactants as an environmentally friendly alternative.

Glycolipid Biosurfactants in Skincare Applications: Challenges and Recommendations for Future Exploitation

The 21st century has seen a substantial increase in the industrial applications of glycolipid biosurfactant technology. The market value of the glycolipid class of molecules, sophorolipids, was estimated to be USD 409.84 million in 2021, with that of rhamnolipid molecules projected to reach USD 2.7 billion by 2026. In the skincare industry, sophorolipid and rhamnolipid biosurfactants have demonstrated the potential to offer a natural, sustainable, and skin-compatible alternative to synthetically derived surfactant compounds. However, there are still many barriers to the wide-scale market adoption of glycolipid technology. These barriers include low product yield (particularly for rhamnolipids) and potential pathogenicity of some native glycolipid-producing microorganisms. Additionally, the use of impure preparations and/or poorly characterised congeners as well as low-throughput methodologies in the safety and bioactivity assessment of sophorolipids and rhamnolipids challenges their increased utilisation in both academic research and skincare applications. This review considers the current trend towards the utilisation of sophorolipid and rhamnolipid biosurfactants as substitutes to synthetically derived surfactant molecules in skincare applications, the challenges associated with their application, and relevant solutions proposed by the biotechnology industry. In addition, we recommend experimental techniques/methodologies, which, if employed, could contribute significantly to increasing the acceptance of glycolipid biosurfactants for use in skincare applications while maintaining consistency in biosurfactant research outputs.

Sophorolipids: A comprehensive review on properties and applications

Sophorolipids are surface-active glycolipids produced by several non-pathogenic yeast species and are widely used as biosurfactants in several industrial applications. Sophorolipids provide a plethora of benefits over chemically synthesized surfactants for certain applications like bioremediation, oil recovery, and pharmaceuticals. They are, for instance less toxic, more benign and environment friendly in nature, biodegradable, freely adsorb to different surfaces, self-assembly in hydrated solutions, robustness for industrial applications etc. These miraculous properties result in valuable physicochemical attributes such as low critical micelle concentrations (CMCs), reduced interfacial surface tension, and capacity to dissolve non-polar components. Moreover, they exhibit a diverse range of physicochemical, functional, and biological attributes due to their unique molecular composition and structure. In this article, we highlight the physico-chemical properties of sophorolipids, how these properties are exploited by the human community for extensive benefits and the conditions which lead to their unique tailor-made structures and how they entail their interfacial behavior. Besides, we discuss the advantages and disadvantages associated with the use of these sophorolipids. We also review their physiological and functional attributes, along with their potential commercial applications, in real-world scenario. Biosurfactants are compared to their man-made equivalents to show the variations in structure-property correlations and possible benefits. Those attempting to manufacture purported natural or green surfactant with innovative and valuable qualities can benefit from an understanding of biosurfactant features structured along the same principles. The uniqueness of this review article is the detailed physico-chemical study of the sophorolipid biosurfactant and how these properties helps in their usage and detailed explicit study of their applications in the current scenario and also covering their pros and cons.

Microbial Biosurfactant as an Alternate to Chemical Surfactants for Application in Cosmetics Industries in Personal and Skin Care Products: A Critical Review

Cosmetics and personal care items are used worldwide and administered straight to the skin. The hazardous nature of the chemical surfactant utilized in the production of cosmetics has caused alarm on a global scale. Therefore, bacterial biosurfactants (BS) are becoming increasingly popular in industrial product production as a biocompatible, low-toxic alternative surfactant. Chemical surfactants can induce allergic responses and skin irritations; thus, they should be replaced with less harmful substances for skin health. The cosmetic industry seeks novel biological alternatives to replace chemical compounds and improve product qualities. Most of these chemicals have a biological origin and can be obtained from plant, bacterial, fungal, and algal sources. Various biological molecules have intriguing capabilities, such as biosurfactants, vitamins, antioxidants, pigments, enzymes, and peptides. These are safe, biodegradable, and environmentally friendly than chemical options. Plant-based biosurfactants, such as saponins, offer numerous advantages over synthetic surfactants, i.e., biodegradable, nontoxic, and environmentally friendly nature. Saponins are a promising source of natural biosurfactants for various industrial and academic applications. However, microbial glycolipids and lipopeptides have been used in biotechnology and cosmetics due to their multifunctional character, including detergency, emulsifying, foaming, and skin moisturizing capabilities. In addition, some of them have the potential to be used as antibacterial agents. In this review, we like to enlighten the application of microbial biosurfactants for replacing chemical surfactants in existing cosmetic and personal skincare pharmaceutical formulations due to their antibacterial, skin surface moisturizing, and low toxicity characteristics.

Microbial Natural Products with Wound-Healing Properties

Wound healing continues to pose a challenge in clinical settings. Moreover, wound management must be performed properly and efficiently. Acute wound healing involves multiple cell divisions, a new extracellular matrix, and the process of formation, such as growth factors and cytokines, which are released at the site of the wound to regulate the process. Any changes that disrupt the healing process could cause tissue damage and prolong the healing process. Various factors, such as microbial infection, oxidation, and inflammation, can delay wound healing. In order to counter these problems, utilizing natural products with wound-healing effects has been reported to promote this process. Several natural products have been associated with wound healing, most of which are from medicinal plants. However, secondary microbial metabolites have not been extensively studied for their wound-healing properties. Further, investigations on the wound-healing control of natural microbial products are required due to a lack of studies. This review discussed the in vivo and in vitro research on the wound healing activities of natural microbial products, which may assist in the development of better wound treatments in the future.

Characterisation of cytotoxicity and immunomodulatory effects of glycolipid biosurfactants on human keratinocytes

Abstract

Skin irritation and allergic reactions associated with the use of skincare products formulated with synthetically derived surfactants such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) have encouraged the search for naturally derived and biocompatible alternatives. Glycolipid biosurfactants such as sophorolipids (SL) and rhamnolipids (RL) offer a potential alternative to SLES. However, most studies on the bioactive properties of microbial glycolipids were determined using their mixed congeners, resulting in significant inter-study variations. This study aims to compare the effects of highly purified SL (acidic and lactonic) and RL (mono-RL and di-RL) congeners and SLES on a spontaneously transformed human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells) to assess glycolipids’ safety for potential skincare applications. Preparations of acidic SL congeners were 100% pure, lactonic SL were 100% pure, mono-RL were 96% pure, and di-RL were 97% pure. Cell viability using XTT assays, cell morphological analyses, and immunoassays revealed that microbial glycolipids have differing effects on HaCaT cells dependent on chemical structure. Compared with SLES, acidic SL and mono-RL have negligible effects on cell viability, cell morphology, and production of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Furthermore, at non-inhibitory concentrations, di-RL significantly attenuated IL-8 production and CXCL8 expression while increasing IL-1RA production and IL1RN expression in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated HaCaT cells. Although further studies would be required, these results demonstrate that as potential innocuous and bioactive compounds, microbial glycolipids could provide a substitute to synthetic surfactants in skincare formulations and perform immunopharmacological roles in topical skin infections such as psoriasis.

Key points

• Purified glycolipid congeners have differing effects on human keratinocytes.

• Compared with SLES, acidic sophorolipids and mono-rhamnolipids have innocuous effects on keratinocytes.

• Di-rhamnolipids and mono-rhamnolipids modulate cytokine production in lipopolysaccharide stimulated human keratinocytes.

Sophorolipids—Bio-Based Antimicrobial Formulating Agents for Applications in Food and Health

Sophorolipids are well-known glycolipid biosurfactants, produced mainly by non-pathogenic yeast species such as Candida bombicola with high yield. Its unique environmental compatibility and high biodegradable properties have made them a focus in the present review for their promising applications in diverse areas. This study aims to examine current research trends of sophorolipids and evaluate their applications in food and health. A literature search was conducted using different research databases including PubMed, ScienceDirect, EBSCOhost, and Wiley Online Library to identify studies on the fundamental mechanisms of sophorolipids and their applications in food and health. Studies have shown that various structural forms of sophorolipids exhibit different biological and physicochemical properties. Sophorolipids represent one of the most attractive biosurfactants in the industry due to their antimicrobial action against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative microorganisms for applications in food and health sectors. In this review, we have provided an overview on the fundamental properties of sophorolipids and detailed analysis of their applications in diverse areas such as food, agriculture, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, anticancer, and antimicrobial activities.

Production of new antimicrobial palm oil-derived sophorolipids by the yeast Starmerella riodocensis sp. nov. against Candida albicans hyphal and biofilm formation

BACKGROUND

Microbial derived-surfactants display low eco-toxicity, diverse functionality, high biodegradability, high specificity, and stability under extreme conditions. Sophorolipids are emerging as key biosurfactants of yeast origins, used in various industrial sectors to lower surface tension. Recently, sophorolipid complexes have been applied in biomedicals and agriculture to eradicate infectious problems related to human and plant fungal pathogens. This study aimed to characterize the functional properties and antifungal activities of sophorolipids produced by a newly characterized Starmerella riodocensis GT-SL1R sp. nov. strain.

RESULTS

Starmerella riodocensis GT-SL1R sp. nov. strain was belonged to Starmerella clade with 93.12% sequence similarity using the ITS technique for strain identification. Sophorolipids production was examined, using co-carbon substrates glucose and palm oil, with a yield on the substrate between 30 and 46%. Using shake-flasks, the S. riodocensis GT-SL1R strain produced biosurfactants with an emulsification activity of 54.59% against kerosene compared to the S. bombicola BCC5426 strain with an activity of 60.22%. Maximum productivities of GT-SL1R and the major sophorolipid-producer S. bombicola were similar at 0.8 gl^-1 h^-1. S. riodocensis GT-SL1R produced mixed forms of lactonic and acidic sophorolipids, shown by TCL, FTIR, and HPLC. Importantly, the complex sophorolipid mixture displayed antifungal activity against an opportunistic yeast pathogen Candida albicans by effectively reducing hyphal and biofilm formation.

CONCLUSIONS

Sophorolipids derived from S. riodocensis demonstrate potential industrial and biomedical applications as green surfactant and antifungal agent. Since numerous renewable bioresources and industrial wastes could be used by microbial cell factories in the biosynthesis of biosurfactants to reduce the production cost, sophorolipids hold a promising alternative to current antimicrobials in treatments against infectious diseases in humans, animals, and plants.

Surface-Active Compounds Produced by Microorganisms: Promising Molecules for the Development of Antimicrobial, Anti-Inflammatory, and Healing Agents

Surface-active compounds (SACs), biomolecules produced by bacteria, yeasts, and filamentous fungi, have interesting properties, such as the ability to interact with surfaces as well as hydrophobic or hydrophilic interfaces. Because of their advantages over other compounds, such as biodegradability, low toxicity, antimicrobial, and healing properties, SACs are attractive targets for research in various applications in medicine. As a result, a growing number of properties related to SAC production have been the subject of scientific research during the past decade, searching for potential future applications in biomedical, pharmaceutical, and therapeutic fields. This review aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of the potential of biosurfactants and emulsifiers as antimicrobials, modulators of virulence factors, anticancer agents, and wound healing agents in the field of biotechnology and biomedicine, to meet the increasing demand for safer medical and pharmacological therapies.

Nanoemulsions: A Review on the Conceptualization of Treatment for Psoriasis Using a 'Green' Surfactant with Low-Energy Emulsification Method

Psoriasis is a skin disease that is not lethal and does not spread through bodily contact. However, this seemingly harmless condition can lead to a loss of confidence and social stigmatization due to a persons' flawed appearance. The conventional methods of psoriasis treatment include taking in systemic drugs to inhibit immunoresponses within the body or applying topical drugs onto the surface of the skin to inhibit cell proliferation. Topical methods are favored as they pose lesser side effects compared to the systemic methods. However, the side effects from systemic drugs and low bioavailability of topical drugs are the limitations to the treatment. The use of nanotechnology in this field has enhanced drug loading capacity and reduced dosage size. In this review, biosurfactants were introduced as a 'greener' alternative to their synthetic counterparts. Glycolipid biosurfactants are specifically suited for anti-psoriatic application due to their characteristic skin-enhancing qualities. The selection of a suitable oil phase can also contribute to the anti-psoriatic effect as some oils have skin-healing properties. The review covers the pathogenic pathway of psoriasis, conventional treatments, and prospective ingredients to be used as components in the nanoemulsion formulation. Furthermore, an insight into the state-of-the-art methods used in formulating nanoemulsions and their progression to low-energy methods are also elaborated in detail.

Fungal biosurfactants, from nature to biotechnological product: bioprospection, production and potential applications

Biosurfactants are in demand by the global market as natural commodities that can be added to commercial products or use in environmental applications. These biomolecules reduce the surface/interfacial tension between fluid phases and exhibit superior stability to chemical surfactants under different physico-chemical conditions. Biotechnological production of biosurfactants is still emerging. Fungi are promising producers of these molecules with unique chemical structures, such as sophorolipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, cellobiose lipids, xylolipids, polyol lipids and hydrophobins. In this review, we aimed to contextualize concepts related to fungal biosurfactant production and its application in industry and the environment. Concepts related to the thermodynamic and physico-chemical properties of biosurfactants are presented, which allows detailed analysis of their structural and application. Promising niches for isolating biosurfactant-producing fungi are presented, as well as screening methodologies are discussed. Finally, strategies related to process parameters and variables, simultaneous production, process optimization through statistical and genetic tools, downstream processing and some aspects of commercial products formulations are presented.

Seeking faster, alternative methods for glycolipid biosurfactant characterization and purification

Biosurfactants have been investigated as potential alternatives for synthetic surfactants in several areas, for example, in environmental and pharmaceutical fields. In that regard, extensive research has been carried out with sophorolipids and rhamnolipids that also present various biological properties with therapeutic significance. These biosurfactants are obtained as complex mixtures of slightly different molecules, and thus when studying these microbial glycolipids, the ability to identify and purify the produced compounds is of extreme importance. This study aimed to develop improved methodologies for the identification, separation, and purification of sophorolipids and rhamnolipids. Therefore, an ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS/MS) method was modified to ensure faster characterization of both sophorolipids and rhamnolipids, enabling the identification and fragmentation pattern description of 10 and 13 congeners, respectively. The separation and purification of these biosurfactants was achieved with novel reversed-phase solid-phase extraction methods guaranteeing the isolation of different glycolipids, including those considered for their significant biological activity (e.g. antimicrobial, anticancer). It was possible to isolate sophorolipids and rhamnolipids with purity of 94% and 99%, respectively. The methods presented herein can be easily implemented and are expected to make purification of these biosurfactants easier, facilitating the study of their individual properties in further works.

Microbial Biosurfactants in Cosmetic and Personal Skincare Pharmaceutical Formulations

Cosmetic and personal care products are globally used and often applied directly on the human skin. According to a recent survey in Europe, the market value of cosmetic and personal care products in Western Europe reached about 84 billion euros in 2018 and are predicted to increase by approximately 6% by the end of 2020. With these significant sums of money spent annually on cosmetic and personal care products, along with chemical surfactants being the main ingredient in a number of their formulations, of which many have been reported to have the potential to cause detrimental effects such as allergic reactions and skin irritations to the human skin; hence, the need for the replacement of chemical surfactants with other compounds that would have less or no negative effects on skin health. Biosurfactants (surfactants of biological origin) have exhibited great potential such as lower toxicity, skin compatibility, protection and surface moisturizing effects which are key components for an effective skincare routine. This review discusses the antimicrobial, skin surface moisturizing and low toxicity properties of glycolipid and lipopeptide biosurfactants which could make them suitable substitutes for chemical surfactants in current cosmetic and personal skincare pharmaceutical formulations. Finally, we discuss some challenges and possible solutions for biosurfactant applications.

Surface Active Agents and Their Health-Promoting Properties: Molecules of Multifunctional Significance

Surface active agents (SAAs) are molecules with the capacity to adsorb to solid surfaces and/or fluid interfaces, a property that allows them to act as multifunctional ingredients (e.g., wetting and dispersion agents, emulsifiers, foaming and anti-foaming agents, lubricants, etc.) in a widerange of the consumer products of various industrial sectors (e.g., pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, personal care, detergents, food, etc.). Given their widespread utilization, there is a continuously growing interest to explore their role in consumer products (relevant to promoting human health) and how such information can be utilized in order to synthesize better chemical derivatives. In this review article, weaimed to provide updated information on synthetic and biological (biosurfactants) SAAs and their health-promoting properties (e.g., anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-viral, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer and anti-aging) in an attempt to better define some of the underlying mechanism(s) by which they exert such properties.

Microbial Surfactants: The Next Generation Multifunctional Biomolecules for Applications in the Petroleum Industry and Its Associated Environmental Remediation

Surfactants are a broad category of tensio-active biomolecules with multifunctional properties applications in diverse industrial sectors and processes. Surfactants are produced synthetically and biologically. The biologically derived surfactants (biosurfactants) are produced from microorganisms, with Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bacillus subtilis Candida albicans, and Acinetobacter calcoaceticus as dominant species. Rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, mannosylerithritol lipids, surfactin, and emulsan are well known in terms of their biotechnological applications. Biosurfactants can compete with synthetic surfactants in terms of performance, with established advantages over synthetic ones, including eco-friendliness, biodegradability, low toxicity, and stability over a wide variability of environmental factors. However, at present, synthetic surfactants are a preferred option in different industrial applications because of their availability in commercial quantities, unlike biosurfactants. The usage of synthetic surfactants introduces new species of recalcitrant pollutants into the environment and leads to undesired results when a wrong selection of surfactants is made. Substituting synthetic surfactants with biosurfactants resolves these drawbacks, thus interest has been intensified in biosurfactant applications in a wide range of industries hitherto considered as experimental fields. This review, therefore, intends to offer an overview of diverse applications in which biosurfactants have been found to be useful, with emphases on petroleum biotechnology, environmental remediation, and the agriculture sector. The application of biosurfactants in these settings would lead to industrial growth and environmental sustainability.

A novel microbial technique for producing high-quality sophorolipids from horse oil suitable for cosmetic applications

Horse oil contains linoleic, palmitoleic and unsaturated fatty acids that are similar to those in human skin, and may therefore be an ideal substance from which to isolate biosurfactants for cosmetic products to improve human skin quality. Herein, an innovative approach was developed to synthesise sophorolipids from horse oil by hydrolysis, followed by fermentation using the yeast Candida bombicola. The yield of sophorolipids from direct fermentation of horse oil and hydrolysed horse oil was 40.6 ± 1.3 g l^-1 and 58.4 ± 1.8 g l^-1 respectively. To further increase the yield, 30-40 g l^-1 glucose was added in a fed-batch fermentation process to maintain the pH between 4.0 and 4.5, resulting in a conversion yield of 71.7 ± 0.8 g l^-1 . The purity and structure of the synthesised sophorolipids were analysed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance. An in vitro human dermal fibroblast model was used as a surrogate for human skin to measure elastase inhibition activity. Antiwrinkle properties of isolated sophorolipids were better than those of horse oil or hydrolysed horse oil in several in vitro assays. Furthermore, no cytotoxicity was observed at a concentration of 50 μg ml^-1 , and wound-healing capacity was evident in a cell culture model. Additionally, the synthesised sophorolipids attenuated lipopolysaccharide-induced expression of inflammatory cytokines in macrophages, and efficiently inhibited several strains of bacteria and yeast. In conclusion, fed-batch fermentation of hydrolysed horse oil is a novel and efficient approach for producing high-quality and high-yield sophorolipids that exhibit great potential as cosmetic ingredients.