Chemical peeling in ethnic skin: an update

Procedural and surgical treatment modalities for acne scarring: Part II

The optimal treatment of acne scarring is challenging because several factors need to be considered, including the type and number of scars, Fitzpatrick skin type, and the amount of downtime permissible to the patient. This second article in the continuing medical education series discusses the procedural treatments available for acne scarring, including the use of chemical peels, fillers, radiofrequency microneedling, lasers, and surgical procedures. The indications for each modality, evidence for its benefits, and the adverse effects are discussed. This section aims to help guide the reader select and implement the most appropriate treatment based on the patient's preferences, acne scarring, and skin type.

Structural Characterization and Bioactivity of a Titanium(IV)-Oxo Complex Stabilized by Mandelate Ligands

Research on titanium-oxo complexes (TOCs) is usually focused on their structure and photocatalytic properties. Findings from these investigations further sparked our interest in exploring their potential biological activities. In this study, we focused on the synthesis and structure of a compound with the general formula [Ti8O2(OiPr)20(man)4] (1), which was isolated from the reaction mixture of titanium(IV) isopropoxide with mandelic acid (Hman) in a molar ratio of 4:1. The structure (1) was determined using single-crystal X-ray diffraction, while spectroscopic studies provided insights into its physicochemical properties. To assess the potential practical applications of (1), its microcrystals were incorporated into a polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) matrix, yielding composite materials of the type PMMA + (1) (2 wt.%, 5 wt.%, 10 wt.%, and 20 wt.%). The next stage of our research involved the evaluation of the antimicrobial activity of the obtained materials. The investigations performed demonstrated the antimicrobial activity of pure (1) and its composites (PMMA + (1)) against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative strains. Furthermore, MTT tests conducted on the L929 murine fibroblast cell line confirmed the lack of cytotoxicity of these composites. Our study identified (1) as a promising antimicrobial agent, which is also may be use for producing composite coatings.

Hyper- and Hypopigmentation in a Subject with Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype VI: A New Treatment Option

Background: Laser therapies can cause hyper- and hypopigmentation of the skin. There is little evidence in the literature of effective treatments for these types of problems in Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV-VI. The main aim of this retrospective study is to evaluate the effects of a new therapy that combines the application of electromagnetic fields and vacuum on a subject with Fitzpatrick skin phototype VI, who presented extensive, laser-induced facial dyschromia. The secondary aim is to test the effectiveness of a free imaging software for assessing skin pigmentation. Methods: The level of improvement after therapy was evaluated, with a 5-point Likert scale, one month after the end of the treatment by the subject and by the doctor who performed the treatment, and by two blinded dermatologists. With the free software, a three-dimensional reconstruction of the treated area and the evaluation of the color distribution were performed. Results: Both the subject and the doctors involved in the study positively evaluated the effects of the treatment. The image analysis highlighted the homogenization of the skin color in the treated area. Conclusions: The combination of electromagnetic fields and vacuum for dyschromia treatments appears promising. The new method of assessing melanin levels resulted particularly efficient.

Cosmetic Considerations in Dark-Skinned Patients

For dermatologists, diversities of human races result in an opportunity to encounter patients with various skin types. Cosmetic procedures have gained more popularity and become more accessible over the past decades. Thus, the selection of appropriate treatment protocol for each patient becomes inevitable. This review will focus on basic knowledge and key points in performing safe cosmetic-related procedures in patients with dark-complexioned skin. In terms of structure and function of the skin, people of color have equal epidermal thickness, corneocyte size and melanocyte number. However, they have more stratum corneum compaction, melanosome dispersion and melanocyte activity than fair skin individuals. Data regarding drug penetration and cutaneous irritation showed conflicting results. Superficial chemical peels and microdermabrasion can be done safely in dark-skinned patients. Medium-depth peel should be used with extreme caution. While deep-depth peel should be avoided at all times due to pigmentary and textural complications. Prolonged treatment interval, use of priming agents and sun protection are recommended. Injectable materials including botulinum toxin and soft tissue augmentation by hyaluronic acid filler can be done harmlessly in dark-skinned patients. Lasers and energy-based devices should be done with caution. Higher melanin dispersion and melanocyte activity acts as competitive chromophore. Pigmentary or textural changes can occur after aggressive treatment protocol. High energy setting, pulse stacking, short wavelength lasers and short treatment interval should be avoided in dark-skinned patients.

Developing Consensus-Based Guidelines for Case Reporting in Aesthetic Medicine: Enhancing Transparency and Standardization

Clinical case reporting plays a vital role in sharing detailed patient narratives, providing insights into rare conditions, innovative treatments, and unexpected outcomes. However, existing reporting guidelines in aesthetic medicine fail to capture the specific nuances of procedures and outcomes in this field. The authors' objectives were to develop comprehensive guidelines for Case REporting in Aesthetic Medicine (CREAM). The study employed a 3-phase consensus process, including a literature review, expert interviews, and a consensus meeting. A diverse group of 10 expert participants (plastic surgeons, dermatologists, noncore specialists, evidence-based medicine expert, and research scientist) in Phase I and 30 experienced aesthetic practitioners in Phase II contributed to the research. Statistical analysis was conducted to assess agreement levels among participants and explore associations and variations within the data. The participants represented various specialties, genders, LGBTQ+ identities, and ethnic backgrounds. The research resulted in the development of the CREAM guidelines, consisting of a 16-item checklist. The guidelines covered essential aspects of case reporting, such as patient and practice information, procedure details, clinical assessment and outcomes, adverse events, and ethical considerations. Statistical analysis indicated a high level of consensus among participants, as well as significant associations between checklist items. CREAM guidelines represent a step toward enhancing transparency and standardization in case reporting in aesthetic medicine. Adhering to these guidelines will allow authors to contribute to a robust evidence base, prioritize patient safety, and drive advancements aesthetic medicine.

Separation of Mandelic Acid by a Reactive Extraction Method Using Tertiary Amine in Different Organic Diluents

Mandelic acid is a valuable chemical that is commonly used in the synthesis of various drugs, in antibacterial products, and as a skin care agent in cosmetics. As it is an important chemical, various methods are used to synthesize and extract this compound. However, the yields of the used processes is not significant. A dilute aqueous solution is obtained when using several production methods, such as a fermentation, etc. In this study, the reactive extraction of mandelic acid from aqueous solutions using tri-n-octylamine extractant at 298.15 K was investigated. Dimethyl phthalate (DMP), methyl isobutyl ketone (MIBK), 2-octanone, 1-octanol, n-pentane, octyl acetate, and toluene were used as diluents. The batch extraction results of the mandelic acid experiments were obtained for the development of a process design. Calculations of the loading factor (Z), distribution coefficient (D), and extraction efficiency (E%) were based on the experimental data. The highest separation yield was obtained as 98.13% for 0.458 mol.L⁻¹ of tri-n-octylamine concentration in DMP. The overall extraction constants were analyzed for the complex of acid-amine by the Bizek approach, including K₁₁, K₁₂, and K₂₃.

Skin Preparation for Photodynamic Therapy, Chemexfoliation, and Ablative Laser Resurfacing: a Systematic Literature Review

BACKGROUND

Photodynamic therapy, chemexfoliation, and ablative laser resurfacing are common practices for dermatologists, yet no formal protocols exist regarding preprocedural skin preparation.

OBJECTIVE

To review and summarize the skin preparation protocols for photodynamic therapy, chemexfoliation, and ablative laser resurfacing available in the literature.

METHODS

Data Sources A systematic review of English and non-English articles using the PubMed database was performed. A manual search of bibliographies from relevant articles was also performed to collect additional studies. Study Selection Only articles in the English language with full texts available that pertained to skin preparation for photodynamic therapy, chemexfoliation, and ablative laser resurfacing were included. Data Extraction Article selection was performed by one author, and relevant sources were verified by other authors using predefined inclusion and exclusion criteria.

RESULTS

There is a paucity of scientific research regarding efficacy and safety of dermatologic preprocedural skin preparation agents. Only 2 studies have compared various cleansing agents for these measures. Yet, strong statements regarding the importance of degreasing are published without supportive data.

CONCLUSION

Consensus guidelines for preprocedural protocols are lacking for photodynamic therapy, chemexfoliation, and ablative laser resurfacing. Further studies are warranted to explore the efficacy and safety of various preprocedural cleansing agents.

Common Dermatologic Procedures and the Associated Complications Unique to Skin of Color

BACKGROUND

The skin of color (SOC) population in the United States continues to grow, and these patients are undergoing various cosmetic and surgical procedures at increasing rates. There is a paucity of data on the potential complications associated with surgical and cosmetic procedures in this patient population.

OBJECTIVE

We aim to educate dermatologic surgeons and clinicians on surgical and cosmetic procedures in patients of color and increase awareness of the potential complications unique to this patient population.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A thorough PubMed literature search was performed to conduct this review.

RESULTS

There are a number of complications in SOC that require special attention, including keloids, postoperative infections, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, and hypopigmentation. There are also various precautions to consider when performing cosmetic procedures, such as neurotoxin and filler injections, laser therapy, microneedling, and chemical peels.

CONCLUSION

Dermatologists should be aware of the potential cosmetic and surgical complications of this growing patient population to provide optimal evidence-based medical care.

Effectiveness of water as the neutralising agent for glycolic acid peels in skin phototypes IV-V

The aim of the study is to evaluate the effectiveness of water as a substitute for sodium bicarbonate plus solution in the neutralisation process of chemical peeling using a 35% glycolic acid solution. This randomised, double-blind, split-face, controlled trial was conducted in an outpatient setting. A total of 126 healthy patients with skin phototypes IV-V aged between 18 and 60 years old were recruited. Chemical peeling was performed with 35% glycolic acid solution. One side of the face was neutralised with water, and the other side of the face was neutralised with a sodium bicarbonate plus solution. The main outcome of this study was measured by the degree of erythema, pruritus and pain scores. Significant difference in the pain score immediately after the neutralisation process of the chemical peeling with glycolic acid was seen. However, there were no significant differences in the degree of erythema or the pruritus score. These results indicate that water can be used as a substitute for sodium bicarbonate plus solution in the neutralisation process of chemical peeling with 35% glycolic acid in patients with skin phototypes IV-V.

Combined chemical peels versus trichloroacetic acid (TCA) for treating melasma: A split face study

Melasma is common skin condition presenting with hyperpigmentation. To evaluate the efficacy, tolerance, and complications of one session of combined chemical peels compared to traditional serial sessions of trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peeling in treating melasma. One session of combined chemical peels was carried out at the left side of the face, while six sessions of TCA 15% peel were carried out at the right side of the face every 10 days. The Modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) score was calculated at baseline (before starting peeling sessions), after one month (at the fourth TCA peeling session), and after three months (one month after the last TCA peeling session). Both sides of the face showed gradual reduction in modified MASI score throughout sessions. By the end of the study, the TCA-treated side showed slightly lower mean modified MASI score than the combined chemical peels-treated side of the face; however this difference was not statistically significant, (p = 0.405). A single session of combined chemical peels is as effective as six sessions of TCA peel in treatment of melasma. Combined chemical peels can be used as a convenient, tolerable and time saving safe procedure for treating melasma.

Analysis of acne-related judicial precedents from 1997 to 2018 in South Korea

Medicolegal disputes are increasing in practical medicine. Medications or procedures related to acne could lead to medical malpractice. This study analyzed medical litigation associated with acne in South Korea. Acne-related judgments were searched using the Supreme Court of Korea's Written Judgment Management System based on the keyword "acne". Eleven cases were selected; eight cases were related to acne scar and three cases were related to acne. Treatment modalities such as peeling, laser treatment, photodynamic therapy and antibiotics resulted in lawsuits. Claimed sequelae of the treatments were hyperpigmentation, scar worsening, erythema, skin bumps and liver transplant. Eight cases were awarded to the plaintiff, and the others were dismissed. This study shows that various treatments for acne can cause medical disputes.

Enhancement of exfoliating efficacy of L-carnitine with ion-pair method monitored by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy

Carnitine (CAR), an amino acid derivative, has great potential as a facial exfoliating agent owing to its calcium chelating property under weakly acidic or neutral conditions. However, its application is limited by its poor transdermal penetration. To optimise its exfoliation efficacy with minimal concentration, we propose the ion-pair method. The ionic interaction between CAR and a zwitterionic substance was successfully monitored by measuring conductivity. The alterations of penetration and exfoliation efficacy for CAR addition to different types of counter ions were investigated in vitro and in vivo. We found that hydrogenated soya phosphatidylcholine (HSC), an amphiphilic counter ion, significantly increases the stratum corneum penetration and exfoliation efficacy of CAR. The changes of the CAR-HSC ionic interaction in the presence of calcium ions were also investigated by ¹H nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. The NMR spectra for amino groups of CAR first decreased with HSC and then gradually recovered and shifted as calcium ions were added. From the results, a noble exfoliating complex of CAR with high exfoliation efficacy could be proposed. Moreover, the results demonstrate that NMR spectroscopy is useful to obtain direct experimental evidence of the molecular dynamics simulations of the alteration of an exfoliating complex as it penetrates.

The Management of Melasma on Skin Types V and VI Using Light Emitting Diode Treatment

OBJECTIVE

This study investigated light emitting diode (LED) treatment for patients with melasma on darker skin types.

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a common disfiguring skin condition in women which is difficult to treat and is refractory. The cause of melasma remains unclear.

METHODS

In this study, 60 female participants aged between 25 and 60 years, who presented with melasma, were enrolled (n = 39.85). They were purposely assigned to two groups according to their skin types. Both groups received a total of 36 LED light treatments over a period of 9 months.

RESULTS

Both subjective and objective results indicated a significant improvement of melasma. Statistical analyses revealed significant improvements in both groups.

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this study suggest that LED is effective in managing melasma. These results will provide a basis for future therapeutic use of phototherapy to improve melasma.

Clinical and Biological Characterization of Skin Pigmentation Diversity and Its Consequences on UV Impact

Skin color diversity is the most variable and noticeable phenotypic trait in humans resulting from constitutive pigmentation variability. This paper will review the characterization of skin pigmentation diversity with a focus on the most recent data on the genetic basis of skin pigmentation, and the various methodologies for skin color assessment. Then, melanocyte activity and amount, type and distribution of melanins, which are the main drivers for skin pigmentation, are described. Paracrine regulators of melanocyte microenvironment are also discussed. Skin response to sun exposure is also highly dependent on color diversity. Thus, sensitivity to solar wavelengths is examined in terms of acute effects such as sunburn/erythema or induced-pigmentation but also long-term consequences such as skin cancers, photoageing and pigmentary disorders. More pronounced sun-sensitivity in lighter or darker skin types depending on the detrimental effects and involved wavelengths is reviewed.

Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation: Epidemiology, Clinical Presentation, Pathogenesis and Treatment

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a reactive hypermelanosis that develops following cutaneous inflammation. Common causes of PIH include intrinsic skin conditions (e.g., acne and eczema) as well as external insults to the skin, such as burn injuries and dermatologic procedures. PIH more commonly occurs in individuals with darker skin, for whom it is often a source of significant psychological distress. Several therapeutic modalities are available for the treatment of PIH, including topical agents, chemical peels, and energy-based devices. We review the epidemiology, clinical presentation, pathogenesis, and treatment of PIH.

Chemical peels in the treatment of acne: patient selection and perspectives

Acne vulgaris is the most common skin disorder in adolescents and young adults. It carries a significant psychological and economic burden to patients and society. A wide range of therapeutic options are available, including topicals and systemic therapies. Chemical peeling is a skin resurfacing procedure intended to regenerate normal skin from the application of exfoliative agents. It has been used for the treatment of acne vulgaris and other skin disorders for decades. There are several chemical agents with variable mechanisms of action, usually classified as superficial, medium, and deep peels. When selecting the patient and the appropriate peel, the dermatologist individualizes therapy, and performs an extensive interview, including past medical history and physical exam. Several host factors can affect the outcome of this procedure, including current psychological state, medications, history of surgery, and immune system, among others. The physician must also be confident that the peel is safe and effective for the target patient. The Fitzpatrick skin type scale is a useful tool to classify patients based on skin color and ability to tan, but also can be used to evaluate preoperative risk of postpeel response and complications. Dark-skinned patients (Fitzpatrick skin type IV-VI), including blacks, Asian, and Hispanic/Latino, are at higher risk of postinflammatory/postpeel hyperpigmentation. When treating these populations, deep chemical peels should be avoided, and preoperative preparation emphasized. There are many studies available in the literature supporting the use of superficial to medium depth peels as adjuvant therapy for acne vulgaris. This review article aims to present the most important factors when selecting a patient for a chemical peel, the evidence behind its safety and efficacy, and special considerations when choosing a specific agent.

Chemical peels for acne vulgaris: a systematic review of randomised controlled trials

OBJECTIVE

We evaluated current evidence from randomised controlled trials (RCTs) regarding the effectiveness of chemical peeling for treating acne vulgaris.

METHODS

Standard Cochrane methodological procedures were used. We searched MEDLINE, Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials and EMBASE via OvidSP through April 2017. Reviewers independently assessed eligibility, risk of bias and extracted data.

RESULTS

Twelve RCTs (387 participants) were included. Effectiveness was not significantly different: trichloroacetic acid versus salicylic acid (SA) (percentage of total improvement: risk ratio (RR) 0.89; 95% CI 0.73 to 1.10), glycolic acid (GA) versus amino fruit acid (the reduction of inflammatory lesions: mean difference (MD), 0.20; 95% CI -3.03 to 3.43), SA versus pyruvic acid (excellent or good improvement: RR 1.11; 95% CI 0.73 to 1.69), GA versus SA (good or fair improvement: RR 1.00; 95% CI 0.85 to 1.18), GA versus Jessner's solution (JS) (self-reported improvements: RR 1.00; 95% CI 0.44 to 2.26), and lipohydroxy acid versus SA (reduction of non-inflammatory lesions: 55.6%vs48.5%, p=0.878). Combined SA and mandelic acid peeling was superior to GA peeling (percentage of improvement in total acne score: 85.3%vs68.5%, p<0.001). GA peeling was superior to placebo (excellent or good improvement: RR 2.30; 95% CI 1.40 to 3.77). SA peeling may be superior to JS peeling for comedones (reduction of comedones: 53.4%vs26.3%, p=0.001) but less effective than phototherapy for pustules (number of pustules: MD -7.00; 95% CI -10.84 to -3.16).

LIMITATIONS

The methodological quality of the included RCTs was very low to moderate. Meta-analysis was not possible due to the significant clinical heterogeneity across studies.

CONCLUSION

Commonly used chemical peels appear to be similarly effective for mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris and well tolerated. However, based on current limited evidence, a robust conclusion cannot be drawn regarding any definitive superiority or equality among the currently used chemical peels. Well-designed RCTs are needed to identify optimal regimens.

Chemical Peels: Indications and Special Considerations for the Male Patient

BACKGROUND

Chemical peels are a mainstay of aesthetic medicine and an increasingly popular cosmetic procedure performed in men.

OBJECTIVE

To review the indications for chemical peels with an emphasis on performing this procedure in male patients.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Review of the English PubMed/MEDLINE literature and specialty texts in cosmetic dermatology, oculoplastic, and facial aesthetic surgery regarding sex-specific use of chemical peels in men.

RESULTS

Conditions treated successfully with chemical peels in men include acne vulgaris, acne scarring, rosacea, keratosis pilaris, melasma, actinic keratosis, photodamage, resurfacing of surgical reconstruction scars, and periorbital rejuvenation. Chemical peels are commonly combined with other nonsurgical cosmetic procedures to optimize results. Male patients may require a greater number of treatments or higher concentration of peeling agent due to increased sebaceous quality of skin and hair follicle density.

CONCLUSION

Chemical peels are a cost-effective and reliable treatment for a variety of aesthetic and medical skin conditions. Given the increasing demand for noninvasive cosmetic procedures among men, dermatologists should have an understanding of chemical peel applications and techniques to address the concerns of male patients.

Black peel in facial dermatoses

BACKGROUND

Melasma (facial dermatoses) is an acquired chronic disorder of hyperpigmentation over sun exposed parts and continues to be a therapeutic challenge due to the presence of melanin at varying depths in the epidermis and dermis, and many researchers are working hard to find a solution. The main culprit to remain is direct sun exposure, with other factors like drugs, genetic predisposition, thyroid abnormalities, pregnancy, phototoxic and photoallergic cosmetics. Melasma continues to have a remarkable impact on the well-being of affected patients causing deep psychological and social anguish, and with the expansion of cosmetic dermatology globally, treatments that are successful against skin diseases and boost beauty without prolonged recovery periods, or exposing patients to the risks of surgery, are increasingly recognised and acknowledged. Many clinicians have used various peeling in facial acne, scarring, and hyperpigmentations, and there have been no well-controlled studies comparing them with other conventional agents.

CASE PRESENTATION

a unique case of facial hyperpigmentation in a black female who presented seeking help which can be attributed to increased aesthetic awareness among people nowadays. A single session of black peel several passes was performed and the lady noted a lightening effect in the following weeks.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this paper is to improve, advance and expand our understanding and the knowledge beyond what is already known to wider colleagues, to impact society at large and to disseminate the findings to wider audiences. Also, the objective of the present paper is to examine the different effect of black peel in the treatment of facial dermatoses, and it gives realistic tips on performing black peeling safely and effectively in ethnic skin groups. This is meant to shed light on some ways for clinical handling and improving our understanding scientifically and educationally. It is the first original case report of interest in the existing literature for the best of my knowledge that had a positive impact for my female patient.

METHOD

A single pass of black peel was applied on the lady's face.

RESULTS

A pleasing brightening effect was examined and boosted the lady confidence.

CONCLUSION

The patient had a positive pleasing experience that she had noticed from a single session application of the black peel.

Updates in the understanding and treatments of skin & hair disorders in women of color

Skin of color comprises a diverse and expanding population of individuals. In particular, women of color represent an increasing subset of patients who frequently seek dermatologic care. Acne, melasma, and alopecia are among the most common skin disorders seen in this patient population. Understanding the differences in the basic science of skin and hair is imperative in addressing their unique needs. Despite the paucity of conclusive data on racial and ethnic differences in skin of color, certain biologic differences do exist, which affect the disease presentations of several cutaneous disorders in pigmented skin. While the overall pathogenesis and treatments for acne in women of color are similar to Caucasian men and women, individuals with darker skin types present more frequently with dyschromias from acne, which can be difficult to manage. Melasma is an acquired pigmentary disorder seen commonly in women with darker skin types and is strongly associated with ultraviolet (UV) radiation, genetic factors, and hormonal influences. Lastly, certain hair care practices and hairstyles are unique among women of African descent, which may contribute to specific types of hair loss seen in this population, such as traction alopecia, trichorrhexis nodosa and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA).

Updates in the understanding and treatments of skin & hair disorders in women of color

Skin of color comprises a diverse and expanding population of individuals. In particular, women of color represent an increasing subset of patients who frequently seek dermatologic care. Acne, melasma, and alopecia are among the most common skin disorders seen in this patient population. Understanding the differences in the basic science of skin and hair is imperative in addressing their unique needs. Despite the paucity of conclusive data on racial and ethnic differences in skin of color, certain biologic differences do exist, which affect the disease presentations of several cutaneous disorders in pigmented skin. While the overall pathogenesis and treatments for acne in women of color are similar to Caucasian men and women, individuals with darker skin types present more frequently with dyschromias from acne, which can be difficult to manage. Melasma is an acquired pigmentary disorder seen commonly in women with darker skin types and is strongly associated with ultraviolet (UV) radiation, genetic factors, and hormonal influences. Lastly, certain hair care practices and hairstyles are unique among women of African descent, which may contribute to specific types of hair loss seen in this population, such as traction alopecia, trichorrhexis nodosa and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA).