Wanted, dead and alive: Why a multidisciplinary approach is needed to unlock hair treatment potential

Mechanical epilation exerts complex biological effects on human hair follicles and perifollicular skin: An ex vivo study approach

OBJECTIVE

Electrical epilation of unwanted hair is a widely used hair removal method, but it is largely unknown how this affects the biology of human hair follicles (HF) and perifollicular skin. Here, we have begun to explore how mechanical epilation changes selected key biological read-out parameters ex vivo within and around the pilosebaceous unit.

METHODS

Human full-thickness scalp skin samples were epilated ex vivo using an electro-mechanical device, organ-cultured for up to 6 days in serum-free, supplemented medium, and assessed at different time points by quantitative (immuno-)histomorphometry for selected relevant read-out parameters in epilated and sham-epilated control samples.

RESULTS

Epilation removed most of the hair shafts, often together with fragments of the outer and inner root sheath and hair matrix. This was associated with persistent focal thinning of the HF basal membrane, decreased melanin content of the residual HF epithelium, and increased HF keratinocyte apoptosis, including in the bulge, yet without affecting the number of cytokeratin 15+ HF epithelial stem cells. Sebocyte apoptosis in the peripheral zone was increased, albeit without visibly altering sebum production. Epilation transiently perturbed HF immune privilege, and increased the expression of ICAM-1 in the bulge and bulb mesenchyme, and the number of perifollicular MHC class II+ cells as well as mast cells around the distal epithelium and promoted mast cell degranulation around the suprabulbar and bulbar area. Moreover, compared to controls, several key players of neurogenic skin inflammation, itch, and/or thermosensation (TRPV1, TRPA1, NGF, and NKR1) were differentially expressed in post-epilation skin.

CONCLUSION

These data generated in denervated, organ-cultured human scalp skin demonstrate that epilation-induced mechanical HF trauma elicits surprisingly complex biological responses. These may contribute to the delayed re-growth of thinner and lighter hair shafts post-epilation and temporary post-epilation discomfort. Our findings also provide pointers regarding the development of topically applicable agents that minimize undesirable sequelae of epilation.

Nanodrug Delivery Strategies to Signaling Pathways in Alopecia

Over 50% of the global population suffers from hair loss. The mixed results in the treatment of hair loss reveal the limitations of conventional commercial topical drugs. One the one hand, the definite pathogenesis of hair loss is still an enigma. On the other hand, targeted drug carriers ensure the drug therapeutic effect and low side effects. This review highlights the organization and overview of nine crucial signaling pathways associated with hair loss, as well as the development of nanobased topical delivery systems loading the clinical drugs, which will fuel emerging hair loss treatment strategies.

Collagen Hydrolysate from the Scales of Mozambique Tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus) Improve Hair and Skin Health by Alleviating Oxidative Stress and Inflammation and Promoting Hair Growth and Extracellular Matrix Factors

Fish-derived collagen hydrolysate (CH) has shown promise in improving hair and skin health. Therefore, this study sought to comprehensively assess the effects of CH extracted from Mozambique tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus) scales on hair and skin using in vitro and in vivo models. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) were used for antioxidant and gene expression analyses, while C57BL/6 mice were orally administered CH for six weeks to assess hair growth patterns. The mice were divided into four groups: negative control (NC; distilled water), positive control (PC; 1 mg/kg finasteride), CH500 (500 mg/kg BW CH), and CH1000 (1000 mg/kg BW CH). CH mitigated catalase activity reduction in hDPCs, increased IGF-1 and VEGF levels, and decreased TGF-β1, TNF-α, and IL-1β expression. In vivo, CH treatment improved hair growth index, length, diameter, weight, and density. Scanning electron microscopy revealed reduced hair damage. Moreover, CH up-regulated IGF-1, VEGF, Elastin, and HAS2 mRNA expression while down-regulating TNF-α and IL-1β. CH enhanced hair shine, growth, and skin health while alleviating inflammation. These findings demonstrate the potential of CH in alleviating oxidative stress, promoting hair growth, and enhancing skin health, both in vitro and in vivo. Fish-derived CH offers a cost-effective and bioavailable option for improving hair and skin health.

Multidimensional Profiling of Human Body Hairs Using Qualitative and Semi-Quantitative Approaches with SR-XRF, ATR-FTIR, DSC, and SEM-EDX

This study aimed to assess the potential of a multidimensional approach to differentiate body hairs based on their physico-chemical properties and whether body hairs can replace the use of scalp hair in studies linked to forensic and systemic intoxication. This is the first case report controlling for confounding variables to explore the utility of multidimensional profiling of body hair using synchrotron synchrotron microbeam X-ray fluorescence (SR-XRF) for longitudinal and hair morphological region mapping) and benchtop methods, including attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) (complemented with chemometrics analysis), energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDX) (complemented with heatmap analysis), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) analysis (complemented by descriptive statistics) to profile different body hairs in terms of their elemental, biochemical, thermal, and cuticle properties. This multidimensional approach provided supportive information to emphasize the intricate and rather complex interplay between the organization and levels of elements and biomolecules within the crystalline and amorphous matrix of different body hairs responsible for the differences in physico-chemical properties between body hairs that are predominantly affected by the growth rate, follicle or apocrine gland activity, and external factors such as cosmetic use and exposure to environmental xenobiotics. The data from this study may have important implications for forensic science, toxicology and systemic intoxication, or other studies involving hair as a research matrix.

The susceptibility of disulfide bonds to modification in keratin fibres undergoing tensile stress

Cysteine residues perform a dual role in mammalian hairs. The majority help stabilise the overall assembly of keratins and their associated proteins, but a proportion of inter-molecular disulfide bonds are assumed to be associated with hair mechanical flexibility. Hair cortical microstructure is hierarchical, with a complex macro-molecular organisation resulting in arrays of intermediate filaments at a scale of micrometres. Intermolecular disulfide bonds occur within filaments and between them and the surrounding matrix. Wool fibres provide a good model for studying various contributions of differently situated disulfide bonds to fibre mechanics. Within this context it is not known if all intermolecular disulfide bonds contribute equally, and, if not, then do the disproportionally involved cysteine residues occur at common locations on proteins. In this study, fibres from Romney sheep were subjected to stretching or to breaking point under wet or dry conditions to detect, through labelling, disulfide bonds that were broken more often than randomly. We found that some cysteines were labelled more often than randomly and that these vary with fibre water content (water disrupts protein-protein hydrogen bonds). Many of the identified cysteine residues were located close to the terminal ends of keratins (head or tail domains) and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs). Some cysteines in the head and tail domains of type II keratin K85 were labelled in all experimental conditions. When inter-protein hydrogen bonds were disrupted under wet conditions, disulfide labelling occurred in the head domains of type II keratins, likely affecting keratin-KAP interactions, and tail domains of the type I keratins, likely affecting keratin-keratin interactions. In contrast, in dry fibres (containing more protein-protein hydrogen bonding) disulfide labelling was also observed in the central domains of affected keratins. This central "rod" region is associated with keratin-keratin interactions between anti-parallel heterodimers in the tetramer of the intermediate filament.

Nanomaterials in hair care and treatment

Hair care and treatment has evolved significantly through the years as new formulations are continuously being explored in an attempt to meet the demand in cosmetic and medicinal fields. While standard hair care procedures include hair washing, aimed at hair cleansing and maintenance, as well as hair dyeing and bleaching formulations for hair embellishment, modern hair treatments are mainly focused on circumventing hair loss conditions, strengthening hair follicle properties and treat hair infestations. In this regard, active compounds (ACs) included in hair cosmetic formulations include a vast array of hair cleansing and hair dye molecules, and typical hair treatments include anti-hair loss ACs (e.g. minoxidil and finasteride) and anti-lice ACs (e.g. permethrin). However, several challenges still persist, as conventional AC formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, calling for an improved design of formulations regarding both efficacy and safety. More recently, nano-based strategies encompassing nanomaterials have emerged as promising tailored approaches to improve the performance of ACs incorporated into hair cosmetics and treatment formulations. The interest in using these nanomaterials is based on account of their ability to: (1) increase stability, safety and biocompatibility of ACs; (2) maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, acting as versatile biointerfaces; (3) enable the controlled release of ACs in both hair and scalp, serving as prolonged AC reservoirs; besides offering (4) hair follicle targeting features attending to the possibility of surface tunability. This review covers the breakthrough of nanomaterials for hair cosmetics and hair treatment, focusing on organic nanomaterials (polymer-based and lipid-based nanoparticles) and inorganic nanomaterials (nanosheets, nanotubes and inorganic nanoparticles), as well as their applications, highlighting their potential as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: This manuscript is focused on reviewing the nanotechnological strategies investigated for hair care and treatment so far. While conventional formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, the selection of improved and suitable nanodelivery systems is of utmost relevance to ensure a proper active ingredient release in both hair and scalp, maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, and provide hair follicle targeting features, warranting stability, efficacy and safety. This innovative manuscript highlights the advantages of nanotechnology-based approaches, particularly as tunable and versatile biointerfaces, and their applications as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment.

Wool fiber curvature is correlated with abundance of K38 and specific keratin-associated proteins

Curvature in mammalian fibers, such as wool and human hair, is an important feature of the functional trait of coat structure-it affects mechanical resilience and thermo-insulation. However, to examine the relationship between fiber curvature, ultrastructure and protein composition fiber diameter variability has to be minimal. To achieve this we utilised the progeny of straight-wool domestic sheep mutant rams (crimp mutants) and wild-type ewes. Proteomic and structural results of the resulting mutant/wild-type twin pairs confirmed that straight crimp mutant wool had a normal cuticle and the same cortical protein and ultrastructural building blocks as wild-type (crimpy) fibers but differed in the layout of its cortical cells and in the relative proportions of keratin (K) and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs). In the case of the crimp mutants (straight fibers), the orthocortex was distributed in a fragmented, annular ring, with some orthocortical cells near the central medulla, a pattern similar to that of straight hairs from humans and other mammals. Crimp mutant fibers were noted for the reduced abundance of some proteins in the high glycine-tyrosine class normally associated with the orthocortex, specifically the KAP6, KAP7, and KAP8 families, while proteins from the KAP16 and KAP19 were found in increased abundance. In addition to this, the type I keratin, K38, which is also associated with the orthocortex, was also found at lower abundance in the mutant fibers. Conversely, proteins from the ultra-high sulfur class normally associated with the paracortex, specifically the KAP4 and KAP9 families, were found in higher abundance.

Processing hair follicles for transmission electron microscopy

Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) has greatly advanced our knowledge of hair growth and follicle morphogenesis, but complex preparations such as fixation, dehydration and embedding compromise ultrastructure. While recent developments with cryofixation have been shown to preserve the ultrastructure of biological materials close to native state, they do have limitations. This review will focus on each stage of the TEM sample preparation process and their effects on the structural integrity of follicles.

Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi-permanents and hair conditioners

BACKGROUND

Different hair types respond differently to cosmetic treatments; hence, many options ought to be availed to the consumer. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the use of antioxidant extract from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active alternatives in hair semi-permanent waving and hair conditioning.

METHODS

The antioxidant phytochemicals were first identified and isolated by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and spraying with revealing agents. The antioxidant potency was determined by DPPH antiradical scavenging and ferric reducing power methods. The extract was incorporated in two different formulations to make the extract perm (bio-semi-permanent) and the antioxidant hair conditioner (AC). The formulations had their performance examined for hair curling and conditioning on Asian and African hair types. Hair damage was assessed by scanning the surface of treated samples on an attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (ATR-FTIR) and by quantifying lost protein on ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometer.

RESULTS

The extract antioxidant had an IC₅₀ of 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml exhibiting greater antioxidant potency compared to the controls quercetin (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) and ascorbic acid (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). The extract perm had a lower curling ability indicated by a perm set of 85.10 ± 3.92% and 81.35 ± 2.35% for Asian and African hairs, respectively, while commercial product, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) had 96.05 ± 1.70% and 93.60 ± 2.21% for the same. The curling of hair with extract perm resulted in less oxidative damage with oxidative peak areas of 3.37 ± 0.09 and 3.71 ± 0.03 as well as lower protein losses of 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg and 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg on Asian and African hair samples, respectively. The application of AC reduced the oxidative damage peak areas of ATG and extract perm treated Asian hair samples by 1.15 and 0.48 units, respectively. AC was also effective in reducing damage caused by UV radiation on ATG-treated samples by 1.06 units (African hair) and 1.09 units on Asian hair.

CONCLUSION

The results show antioxidant extracts from Dicerocryum senecioides as a promising and safer alternative for hair conditioning and semi-permanent curling.

Role of Scalp Health in Achieving Optimal Hair Growth and Retention

We have conducted a thorough review of the literature to assess the evidence for supporting a cause-and-effect linkage between scalp condition and resultant hair condition. Over 20 epidemiological studies have been published covering a wide range of abnormal scalp conditions in which consequent impacts to the hair have been documented. A treatment study was conducted to demonstrate not only that impaired scalp condition led to impaired hair quality but that the impacts to hair are reversible upon normalization of the scalp condition. A proposed explanation involves the impact of scalp oxidative stress, which is part of the etiology of these scalp conditions as well as normal aging, in interfering with the normal keratinization of the pre-emergent hair cuticle. This perturbed cuticle impedes normal fiber anchorage and emerges more brittle and fragile than normal cuticle leading to accelerated physical degradation, mirroring the effects of chronological aging of the hair fiber. The consequences of the rapid cuticle degradation result in hair that is more vulnerable to mechanical insults and compromised overall quality.

Improved two-dimensional electrophoretic mapping of Japanese human hair proteins; application to curved and straight Japanese human hairs; and protein identification by MALDI MS and MS/MS quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate improved protein extraction and two-dimensional electrophoresis (2DE) separation methods with Japanese reference human hair (JRH); to determine whether fibre curvature is related to protein composition in curly and straight Japanese women's human hair (JHH) samples; and to identify proteins from JRH 2DE maps and expression differences between curly and straight JHH.

METHODS

Hair keratin and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) were extracted intact with dithiothreitol or tris(2-carboxyethyl) phosphine from JRH or from curved or straight JHH. Extracted proteins were isoelectric-focused on first-dimensional pH gradient gel strips, then separated by molecular weight on laboratory-made, second-dimension, large format gels. The software compared protein abundance between duplicate 2DE gels of curved and straight JHH. Thirty-eight proteins from a JRH 2DE gel were enzyme-cleaved for MALDI-TOF-MS analysis to determine peptide composition, and where possible, de novo sequencing gave peptide sequence data. An in-house human hair protein database incorporating ninety-eight annotated protein sequences assisted MS analysis.

RESULTS

2DE gels of tris(2-carboxyethyl) phosphine-extracted JRH improved keratin and KAP resolution and number compared to those of dithiothreitol-extracted JRH and published commercially made second-dimensional gels. Silver-stained 2DE gels of the straight or curved JHH sets were remarkably similar. Over-staining to reveal basic proteins caused poor resolution of the major acidic protein classes. Software comparisons of fifty-nine resolved proteins revealed two were significantly different in abundance between curved and straight hairs but in insufficient amounts for MS analysis. MS identified twelve proteins from a JRH CBBG-stained 2DE gel: six type II keratins, three type I keratins and three high sulphur proteins. A further eight were potential conformational isoforms and isoelectric variants of the identified proteins bringing the total to twenty identified or partially identified proteins.

CONCLUSION

Root-end human hair extraction with tris(2-carboxyethyl) phosphine improves protein resolution and visualizes more proteins on large format 2DE gels. The two minor protein differences between duplicate straight or curved JHH 2DE gels were unlikely to change fibre structure from straight to curved hair. MS results confirmed that multiple isoforms exist of various hair proteins. Low sequence coverage prevented distinction between members in rows of homologous protein spots of similar molecular weight.

Tissue engineering strategies for human hair follicle regeneration: How far from a hairy goal?

The demand for an efficient therapy for alopecia disease has fueled the hair research field in recent decades. However, despite significant improvements in the knowledge of key processes of hair follicle biology such as genesis and cycling, translation into hair follicle replacement therapies has not occurred. Great expectation has been recently put on hair follicle bioengineering, which is based on the development of fully functional hair follicles with cycling activity from an expanded population of hair‐inductive (trichogenic) cells. Most bioengineering approaches focus on in vitro reconstruction of folliculogenesis by manipulating key regulatory molecular/physical features of hair follicle growth/cycling in vivo. Despite their great potential, no cell‐based product is clinically available for hair regeneration therapy to date. This is mainly due to demanding issues that still hinder the functionality of cultured human hair cells. The present review comprehensively compares emergent strategies using different cell sources and tissue engineering approaches, aiming to successfully achieve a clinical cure for hair loss. The hurdles of these strategies are discussed, as well as the future directions to overcome the obstacles and fulfill the promise of a “hairy” feat.

PPAR-γ signalling as a key mediator of human hair follicle physiology and pathology

Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs) are abundantly expressed in human skin, with PPAR-γ being the most intensively investigated isoform. In various ex vivo and in vivo models, PPAR-γ-mediated signalling has recently surfaced as an essential element of hair follicle (HF) development, growth and stem cell biology. Moreover, the availability of novel, topically applicable PPAR-γ modulators with a favourable toxicological profile has extended the range of potential applications in clinical dermatology. In this review, we synthesize where this field currently stands and sketch promising future research avenues, focussing on the role of PPAR-γ-mediated signalling in the biology and pathology of human scalp HFs, with special emphasis on scarring alopecias such as lichen planopilaris and frontal fibrosing alopecia as model human epithelial stem cell diseases. In particular, we discuss whether and how pharmacological modulation of PPAR-γ signalling may be employed for the management of hair growth disorders, for example, in scarring alopecia (by reducing HF inflammation as well as by promoting the survival and suppressing pathological epithelial-mesenchymal transition of keratin 15 + epithelial stem cells in the bulge) and in hirsutism/hypertrichosis (by promoting catagen development). Moreover, we explore the potential role of PPAR-γ in androgenetic alopecia, HF energy metabolism and HF ageing, and consider clinical perspectives that emanate from the limited data available on this so far. As this field of translational human hair research is still in its infancy, many open questions exist, for which we briefly delineate selected experimental approaches that promise to generate instructive answers in the near future.