Primary irritation index and safety zone of cosmetics: retrospective analysis of skin patch tests in 7440 Korean women during 12 years

The whitening efficacy of a compound formula examined using an ultraviolet-induced skin melanization model

BACKGROUND

In Eastern culture, a fair complexion is the standard of beauty, leading to appearance-related distress among women with darker skin or facial pigmentation. Women seek whitening cosmetics to enhance their skin tone or correct their pigmentation, but their safety and effectiveness are paramount factors to consider. In this study, we evaluated the safety and whitening effects of a compound formula denoted as TEST comprising astaxanthin, nicotinamide, arbutin, and tranexamic acid.

METHODS

Primary skin irritation and skin-whitening efficacy were examined. Three qualified melanization areas were treated with TEST, 7% ascorbic acid, or a blank. Skin color, the individual type angle (ITA°), and the melanin index (MI) were compared among treatment areas.

RESULTS

TEST did not induce a skin response and exhibited a significantly higher ITA° than the blank, while no significant difference was observed with that of 7% ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the MI of TEST was significantly reduced posttreatment.

CONCLUSIONS

TEST could be integrated into spot-fading and skin-whitening cosmeceuticals or functional cosmetics.

A comparative study of chemical constituents and safety of Thai herbal medicated oil formula and traditional medicated oil

OBJECTIVES

Medicated oil has been traditionally used as an analgesic medicine to relieve pain by applying to the skin over painful muscles, and has been established in The National List of Essential Medicines (2556 B.E.). Traditional Medicated oil (TMO) consists of cassumunar ginger, Wan En Lueang, and Wan Ron Thong. It is prepared by frying herbs in coconut oil which is a traditional method. Thai Herbal Medicated oil formula (MOF) comprises cassumunar ginger, sweet flag, lesser galangal, wild turmeric, Wan En Lueang, and Wan Ron Thong. Its preparation by maceration with methyl salicylate is modified method to avoid the heat in the traditional preparation. Since both recipes have different methods of extraction and compositions, it is necessary to determine the chemical constituents and acute skin irritation potential of MOF and TMO.

METHODS

This study applied Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) for quality assessment of MOF extract and TMO extract. The mass spectra of the compounds matched with authentic standards from the NIST library. The compounds were identified by comparing their retention time and peak area, and the percentage of matched factor was more than 80%. The safety assessment on acute skin irritation used the 4 h human patch test (4 h HPT) in 36 healthy subjects.

RESULTS

The 37 compounds were found in MOF extract. The most common chemical constituents were terpene derivatives; monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes, and others, namely benzene derivatives, ester, phenylpropanoid, and other compounds. The 33 compounds were found in TMO extract and the chemical groups were similar to MOF extract. The 4 h HPT demonstrated that the MOF extract, TMO extract, methyl salicylate solvent, and coconut oil solvent, did not induce skin irritation. However, the vehicle of the formulae and the whole formulae as MOF and TMO clinically induced skin irritation and accorded with rubefacient. The characteristic as mild erythema or dryness, but not erythema with edema, could appear after the use of rubbing skin products.

CONCLUSIONS

The chemical constituents found in MOF and TMO extracts were partially different and their acute skin irritation reactions were not significantly different. A study on the efficacy of both remedies should be performed in the future, as well as a study on active chemical constituents. This study provides scientific evidences of quality and safety, including GC-MS condition for poly-herbal medicated oil standardization.

Safety and efficacy of a new hydrogel based on hyaluronic acid as cosmeceutical for xerosis

BACKGROUND

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is among the most effective and safe ingredients frequently used in cosmetics. However, a more economical and efficient formulation is still required.

OBJECTIVE

We sought to assess the safety and efficacy of a novel hydrogel manufactured only by irradiation containing cross-linked HA and polyethylene glycol polymers with addition of polysiloxane.

METHODS

The study included 30 people with normal skin and 30 patients with xerosis. In the normal skin group, to evaluate the safety, a patch test and a photopatch test were performed, and patients' discomfort was investigated. In those with xerosis, to assess the efficacy, a skin barrier function test was performed at baseline and at 2, 4, and 8 weeks after the application of the novel hydrogel. Additionally, the xerosis severity scale (XSS), patient satisfaction, Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA), and adverse responses were evaluated.

RESULTS

In the safety study, there was no significant discomfort in the experimental group compared with the control group. In the efficacy study, at 2, 4, and 8 weeks after the application of the novel hydrogel, the mean value of skin hydration and sebum content increased and the mean value of XSS decreased with time in the experimental group, and a difference was observed when compared with the control group. IGA showed improvement in 97%, 77%, and 80% at each visit and the proportions of satisfied patients were 90%, 87%, and 90%, respectively.

CONCLUSIONS

The novel HA-based hydrogel tested herein could be a safe and effective therapeutic remedy for xerosis.

Extraction and Concentration of Waste Pueraria lobata Stems with Antioxidants and Anti-Melanogenesis Activity as a Novel Skin Whitening Agent for Natural Cosmetic Prototypes

The root of Pueraria lobata (Willd.) is used commercially in different products, including dietary supplements, cosmetics, and teas, but its stem part is rarely used and studied. Therefore, this study evaluated the antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities of the bioactive fraction of P. lobata stem and investigated whether the activated carbon decolorization technique would have an impact on its activity and chemical composition. We observed that the dichloromethane fraction of P. lobata stem (DCM-PLS) has excellent antioxidant and anti-melanin synthesis activity at a concentration of 50 μg/mL. For the investigation of the anti-melanogenesis mechanism, we evaluated the mRNA expression of tyrosinase, which was depressed by the DCM-PLS. Daidzin was identified as the main active ingredient in DCM-PLS by using a high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-hyphenated with tandem mass spectrometry. In addition, the activated carbon decolorization technology has no negative impact on the main components and bioactivity of DCM-PLS. DCM-PLS also did not induce any skin response in the human skin safety test. Collectively, DCM-PLS could be used as a natural type of skin-whitening agent in skin care products.

Antioxidant Activities of Jeju Wax Apple (Syzygium samarangense) and Safety of Human Keratinocytes and Primary Skin Irritation Test

This study analyzed the antioxidant activity, cell viability, and human skin primary irritation test using the hot-water extracts of the Syzygium samarangense. As a result of the recent warmer climate, tropical plants have flourished on Jeju Island, and S. samarangense is one of these plants known to have biological activities. In this study, the hot-water extract of S. samarangense leaf and branch was analyzed. Antioxidant activity was measured by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethyl-benzthiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)) assays, and the DMPD (dimethyl-4-phenylenediamine) radical scavenging activity, nitrite scavenging activity, ferrous-ion chelating activity, cupric reducing antioxidant capacity, reducing power assay, ferric reducing antioxidant power, total phenol content, and total flavonoid content were also measured. In addition, cell viability was measured by MTT assay in human keratinocyte cells (HaCaT), and the safety of the extract for use on the skin was evaluated in the human skin primary irritation test. The antioxidant activities, except DMPD radical scavenging activity and ferrous-ion chelating activity, were stronger in the branch extract than in leaf extract, and the total phenol and flavonoid contents were also higher in the branch extract. Slight irritation was observed in the human skin primary irritation test. However, it was possible to observe sufficient antioxidant capacity at a concentration lower than the concentration used in the irritation test; therefore, if the concentration of the extract is appropriately adjusted, this suggests that it is a possible natural material suitable for use in cosmetics.

Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications

Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.

A study of the human skin-whitening effects of resveratryl triacetate

Resveratrol has a variety of bioactivities that include its anti-melanogenic effects, but its use in cosmetics has been challenging partly because of its chemical instability. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a prodrug that can enhance stability. The purpose of this study was to examine the skin safety and whitening effects of RTA in human subjects. The primary skin irritation potentials of RTA and resveratrol were tested at 0.1 and 0.5 % on human subjects. Resveratrol at a concentration of 0.5 % induced weak skin irritation, whereas RTA did not induce any skin responses. The skin-whitening efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing 0.4 % RTA was evaluated in two different test models. In the artificial tanning model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the skin of the forearms of 22 human subjects after pigmentation induction by ultraviolet irradiation. Applying the test and the control products to the artificial tanning model for 8 weeks increased the individual topology angles (ITA°) by 17.06 and 13.81 %, respectively, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). In the hyperpigmentation model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the faces of 21 human subjects. The averaged intensity of the hyperpigmented spots decreased by 2.67 % in the test group and 1.46 % in the control group, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). Therefore, RTA incorporated into cosmetic formulations can whiten human skin without inducing skin irritation.