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Shu X, Dong X, Ma Y, Huo W, Li Z, Zou L, Tang Y, Li L, Wang X. The whitening efficacy of a compound formula examined using an ultraviolet-induced skin melanization model. J Cosmet Dermatol 2024; 23:2750-2756. [PMID: 38664985 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16332] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/03/2023] [Revised: 03/25/2024] [Accepted: 04/04/2024] [Indexed: 07/26/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND In Eastern culture, a fair complexion is the standard of beauty, leading to appearance-related distress among women with darker skin or facial pigmentation. Women seek whitening cosmetics to enhance their skin tone or correct their pigmentation, but their safety and effectiveness are paramount factors to consider. In this study, we evaluated the safety and whitening effects of a compound formula denoted as TEST comprising astaxanthin, nicotinamide, arbutin, and tranexamic acid. METHODS Primary skin irritation and skin-whitening efficacy were examined. Three qualified melanization areas were treated with TEST, 7% ascorbic acid, or a blank. Skin color, the individual type angle (ITA°), and the melanin index (MI) were compared among treatment areas. RESULTS TEST did not induce a skin response and exhibited a significantly higher ITA° than the blank, while no significant difference was observed with that of 7% ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the MI of TEST was significantly reduced posttreatment. CONCLUSIONS TEST could be integrated into spot-fading and skin-whitening cosmeceuticals or functional cosmetics.
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Affiliation(s)
- Xiaohong Shu
- Center of Cosmetic Evaluation, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
| | - Xin Dong
- Department of Dermatology, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
| | - Yuhong Ma
- Xi'an Runyu Medical Technology Co., Ltd, Xi'an, Shaanxi, China
| | - Wei Huo
- Center of Cosmetic Evaluation, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
| | - Zhaoxia Li
- Center of Cosmetic Evaluation, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
| | - Lin Zou
- Center of Cosmetic Evaluation, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
| | - Ying Tang
- Center of Cosmetic Evaluation, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
| | - Li Li
- Center of Cosmetic Evaluation, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
- Department of Dermatology, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
| | - Xi Wang
- Center of Cosmetic Evaluation, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
- Department of Dermatology, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu, China
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Booncharoen P, Boonchai W, Akarasereenont P, Tripatara P. A comparative study of chemical constituents and safety of Thai herbal medicated oil formula and traditional medicated oil. JOURNAL OF COMPLEMENTARY & INTEGRATIVE MEDICINE 2023; 20:268-277. [PMID: 33984887 DOI: 10.1515/jcim-2020-0454] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/30/2020] [Accepted: 03/29/2021] [Indexed: 06/12/2023]
Abstract
OBJECTIVES Medicated oil has been traditionally used as an analgesic medicine to relieve pain by applying to the skin over painful muscles, and has been established in The National List of Essential Medicines (2556 B.E.). Traditional Medicated oil (TMO) consists of cassumunar ginger, Wan En Lueang, and Wan Ron Thong. It is prepared by frying herbs in coconut oil which is a traditional method. Thai Herbal Medicated oil formula (MOF) comprises cassumunar ginger, sweet flag, lesser galangal, wild turmeric, Wan En Lueang, and Wan Ron Thong. Its preparation by maceration with methyl salicylate is modified method to avoid the heat in the traditional preparation. Since both recipes have different methods of extraction and compositions, it is necessary to determine the chemical constituents and acute skin irritation potential of MOF and TMO. METHODS This study applied Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) for quality assessment of MOF extract and TMO extract. The mass spectra of the compounds matched with authentic standards from the NIST library. The compounds were identified by comparing their retention time and peak area, and the percentage of matched factor was more than 80%. The safety assessment on acute skin irritation used the 4 h human patch test (4 h HPT) in 36 healthy subjects. RESULTS The 37 compounds were found in MOF extract. The most common chemical constituents were terpene derivatives; monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes, and others, namely benzene derivatives, ester, phenylpropanoid, and other compounds. The 33 compounds were found in TMO extract and the chemical groups were similar to MOF extract. The 4 h HPT demonstrated that the MOF extract, TMO extract, methyl salicylate solvent, and coconut oil solvent, did not induce skin irritation. However, the vehicle of the formulae and the whole formulae as MOF and TMO clinically induced skin irritation and accorded with rubefacient. The characteristic as mild erythema or dryness, but not erythema with edema, could appear after the use of rubbing skin products. CONCLUSIONS The chemical constituents found in MOF and TMO extracts were partially different and their acute skin irritation reactions were not significantly different. A study on the efficacy of both remedies should be performed in the future, as well as a study on active chemical constituents. This study provides scientific evidences of quality and safety, including GC-MS condition for poly-herbal medicated oil standardization.
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Affiliation(s)
- Poorada Booncharoen
- Center of Applied Thai Traditional Medicine, Faculty of Medicine Siriraj Hospital, Mahidol University, Bangkok, Thailand
| | - Waranya Boonchai
- Department of Dermatology, Faculty of Medicine Siriraj Hospital, Mahidol University, Bangkok, Thailand
| | - Pravit Akarasereenont
- Center of Applied Thai Traditional Medicine, Faculty of Medicine Siriraj Hospital, Mahidol University, Bangkok, Thailand
- Department of Pharmacology, Faculty of Medicine Siriraj Hospital, Mahidol University, Bangkok, Thailand
| | - Pinpat Tripatara
- Department of Pharmacology, Faculty of Medicine Siriraj Hospital, Mahidol University, Bangkok, Thailand
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Ha NG, Lee SH, Lee EH, Chang M, Yoo J, Lee WJ. Safety and efficacy of a new hydrogel based on hyaluronic acid as cosmeceutical for xerosis. J Cosmet Dermatol 2022; 21:6840-6849. [PMID: 36074117 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15368] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/10/2022] [Revised: 05/25/2022] [Accepted: 09/06/2022] [Indexed: 01/06/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Hyaluronic acid (HA) is among the most effective and safe ingredients frequently used in cosmetics. However, a more economical and efficient formulation is still required. OBJECTIVE We sought to assess the safety and efficacy of a novel hydrogel manufactured only by irradiation containing cross-linked HA and polyethylene glycol polymers with addition of polysiloxane. METHODS The study included 30 people with normal skin and 30 patients with xerosis. In the normal skin group, to evaluate the safety, a patch test and a photopatch test were performed, and patients' discomfort was investigated. In those with xerosis, to assess the efficacy, a skin barrier function test was performed at baseline and at 2, 4, and 8 weeks after the application of the novel hydrogel. Additionally, the xerosis severity scale (XSS), patient satisfaction, Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA), and adverse responses were evaluated. RESULTS In the safety study, there was no significant discomfort in the experimental group compared with the control group. In the efficacy study, at 2, 4, and 8 weeks after the application of the novel hydrogel, the mean value of skin hydration and sebum content increased and the mean value of XSS decreased with time in the experimental group, and a difference was observed when compared with the control group. IGA showed improvement in 97%, 77%, and 80% at each visit and the proportions of satisfied patients were 90%, 87%, and 90%, respectively. CONCLUSIONS The novel HA-based hydrogel tested herein could be a safe and effective therapeutic remedy for xerosis.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nam Gyoung Ha
- Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine, Kyungpook National University, Daegu, Korea
| | - Seon Hwa Lee
- Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine, Kyungpook National University, Daegu, Korea
| | - Eun Hye Lee
- Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine, Kyungpook National University, Daegu, Korea
| | | | - Jeongsoo Yoo
- Department of Molecular Medicine, Kyungpook National University School of Medicine, Daegu, Korea
| | - Weon Ju Lee
- Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine, Kyungpook National University, Daegu, Korea
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Gao D, Cho CW, Kim JH, Kim CT, Jeong WS, Wang Y, Li X, Kang JS. Extraction and Concentration of Waste Pueraria lobata Stems with Antioxidants and Anti-Melanogenesis Activity as a Novel Skin Whitening Agent for Natural Cosmetic Prototypes. Int J Mol Sci 2022; 23:ijms231810352. [PMID: 36142265 PMCID: PMC9499008 DOI: 10.3390/ijms231810352] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/23/2022] [Revised: 09/06/2022] [Accepted: 09/06/2022] [Indexed: 12/03/2022] Open
Abstract
The root of Pueraria lobata (Willd.) is used commercially in different products, including dietary supplements, cosmetics, and teas, but its stem part is rarely used and studied. Therefore, this study evaluated the antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities of the bioactive fraction of P. lobata stem and investigated whether the activated carbon decolorization technique would have an impact on its activity and chemical composition. We observed that the dichloromethane fraction of P. lobata stem (DCM-PLS) has excellent antioxidant and anti-melanin synthesis activity at a concentration of 50 μg/mL. For the investigation of the anti-melanogenesis mechanism, we evaluated the mRNA expression of tyrosinase, which was depressed by the DCM-PLS. Daidzin was identified as the main active ingredient in DCM-PLS by using a high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-hyphenated with tandem mass spectrometry. In addition, the activated carbon decolorization technology has no negative impact on the main components and bioactivity of DCM-PLS. DCM-PLS also did not induce any skin response in the human skin safety test. Collectively, DCM-PLS could be used as a natural type of skin-whitening agent in skin care products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Dan Gao
- Institute of Chinese Materia Medica, China Academy of Chinese Medical Sciences, Beijing 100700, China
| | - Chong-Woon Cho
- College of Pharmacy, Chungnam National University, Daejeon 34134, Korea
| | - Jin-Hyeok Kim
- College of Pharmacy, Chungnam National University, Daejeon 34134, Korea
| | | | | | - Ye Wang
- Institute of Chinese Materia Medica, China Academy of Chinese Medical Sciences, Beijing 100700, China
| | - Xiwen Li
- Institute of Chinese Materia Medica, China Academy of Chinese Medical Sciences, Beijing 100700, China
- Correspondence: (X.L.); (J.-S.K.); Tel.: +86-10-8408-4107 (X.L.); +82-42-821-5928 (J.-S.K.)
| | - Jong-Seong Kang
- College of Pharmacy, Chungnam National University, Daejeon 34134, Korea
- Correspondence: (X.L.); (J.-S.K.); Tel.: +86-10-8408-4107 (X.L.); +82-42-821-5928 (J.-S.K.)
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Biomimetic hydrogel by enzymatic crosslinking of pullulan grafted with ferulic acid. Carbohydr Polym 2020; 250:116967. [DOI: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2020.116967] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/28/2020] [Revised: 08/15/2020] [Accepted: 08/15/2020] [Indexed: 12/18/2022]
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Hydrogel thickened microemulsion; a local cargo for the co- delivery of cinnamaldehyde and berberine to treat acne vulgaris. J Drug Deliv Sci Technol 2020. [DOI: 10.1016/j.jddst.2020.101835] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/19/2022]
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Antioxidant Activities of Jeju Wax Apple (Syzygium samarangense) and Safety of Human Keratinocytes and Primary Skin Irritation Test. COSMETICS 2020. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics7020039] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/28/2022] Open
Abstract
This study analyzed the antioxidant activity, cell viability, and human skin primary irritation test using the hot-water extracts of the Syzygium samarangense. As a result of the recent warmer climate, tropical plants have flourished on Jeju Island, and S. samarangense is one of these plants known to have biological activities. In this study, the hot-water extract of S. samarangense leaf and branch was analyzed. Antioxidant activity was measured by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethyl-benzthiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)) assays, and the DMPD (dimethyl-4-phenylenediamine) radical scavenging activity, nitrite scavenging activity, ferrous-ion chelating activity, cupric reducing antioxidant capacity, reducing power assay, ferric reducing antioxidant power, total phenol content, and total flavonoid content were also measured. In addition, cell viability was measured by MTT assay in human keratinocyte cells (HaCaT), and the safety of the extract for use on the skin was evaluated in the human skin primary irritation test. The antioxidant activities, except DMPD radical scavenging activity and ferrous-ion chelating activity, were stronger in the branch extract than in leaf extract, and the total phenol and flavonoid contents were also higher in the branch extract. Slight irritation was observed in the human skin primary irritation test. However, it was possible to observe sufficient antioxidant capacity at a concentration lower than the concentration used in the irritation test; therefore, if the concentration of the extract is appropriately adjusted, this suggests that it is a possible natural material suitable for use in cosmetics.
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Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications. Antioxidants (Basel) 2019; 8:antiox8090332. [PMID: 31443469 PMCID: PMC6770230 DOI: 10.3390/antiox8090332] [Citation(s) in RCA: 59] [Impact Index Per Article: 11.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/28/2019] [Revised: 08/14/2019] [Accepted: 08/20/2019] [Indexed: 12/19/2022] Open
Abstract
Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.
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Kim JH, Min HJ, Park K, Kim J. Preparation and evaluation of a cosmetic adhesive containing guar gum. KOREAN J CHEM ENG 2017. [DOI: 10.1007/s11814-017-0133-y] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/28/2023]
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Yan Y, Zhang H, Sun J, Wang P, Dong K, Dong Y, Xing J. Enhanced transdermal delivery of sinomenine hydrochloride by ethosomes for anti-inflammatory treatment. J Drug Deliv Sci Technol 2016. [DOI: 10.1016/j.jddst.2016.10.013] [Citation(s) in RCA: 15] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/25/2022]
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Seok JK, Kwak JY, Choi GW, An SM, Kwak JH, Seo HH, Suh HJ, Boo YC. Scutellaria radix
Extract as a Natural UV Protectant for Human Skin. Phytother Res 2015; 30:374-9. [DOI: 10.1002/ptr.5534] [Citation(s) in RCA: 22] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/05/2015] [Revised: 11/09/2015] [Accepted: 11/10/2015] [Indexed: 12/23/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Jin Kyung Seok
- Department of Molecular Medicine, Cell and Matrix Research Institute, BK21 Plus KNU Biomedical Convergence Program, School of Medicine; Kyungpook National University; 680, Gukchaebosang-ro Jung-gu, Daegu, 41944 Korea
| | - Jun Yup Kwak
- Department of Molecular Medicine, Cell and Matrix Research Institute, BK21 Plus KNU Biomedical Convergence Program, School of Medicine; Kyungpook National University; 680, Gukchaebosang-ro Jung-gu, Daegu, 41944 Korea
| | - Go Woon Choi
- Dermapro Skin Research Center; Dermapro Ltd., 30, Bangbaejungang-ro Seocho-gu Seoul 06684 Korea
| | - Sang Mi An
- Dermapro Skin Research Center; Dermapro Ltd., 30, Bangbaejungang-ro Seocho-gu Seoul 06684 Korea
| | - Jae-Hoon Kwak
- Department of Cosmeceutical Science; Daegu Hanny University; Gyeongsan, 38578 Korea
| | - Hyeong-Ho Seo
- Ruby Crown Co., Ltd.; Kyungpook National University Business Incubation Center, 80, Daehak-ro, Buk-gu Daegu, 41566 Korea
| | - Hwa-Jin Suh
- Gyeongbuk Natural Color Industry Institute; 181, Cheonmun-ro Yeongcheon-si Gyeongsangbuk-do, 38896 Korea
| | - Yong Chool Boo
- Department of Molecular Medicine, Cell and Matrix Research Institute, BK21 Plus KNU Biomedical Convergence Program, School of Medicine; Kyungpook National University; 680, Gukchaebosang-ro Jung-gu, Daegu, 41944 Korea
- Ruby Crown Co., Ltd.; Kyungpook National University Business Incubation Center, 80, Daehak-ro, Buk-gu Daegu, 41566 Korea
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Ryu JH, Seok JK, An SM, Baek JH, Koh JS, Boo YC. A study of the human skin-whitening effects of resveratryl triacetate. Arch Dermatol Res 2015; 307:239-47. [PMID: 25750159 DOI: 10.1007/s00403-015-1556-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 33] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/17/2014] [Revised: 02/06/2015] [Accepted: 02/28/2015] [Indexed: 12/22/2022]
Abstract
Resveratrol has a variety of bioactivities that include its anti-melanogenic effects, but its use in cosmetics has been challenging partly because of its chemical instability. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a prodrug that can enhance stability. The purpose of this study was to examine the skin safety and whitening effects of RTA in human subjects. The primary skin irritation potentials of RTA and resveratrol were tested at 0.1 and 0.5 % on human subjects. Resveratrol at a concentration of 0.5 % induced weak skin irritation, whereas RTA did not induce any skin responses. The skin-whitening efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing 0.4 % RTA was evaluated in two different test models. In the artificial tanning model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the skin of the forearms of 22 human subjects after pigmentation induction by ultraviolet irradiation. Applying the test and the control products to the artificial tanning model for 8 weeks increased the individual topology angles (ITA°) by 17.06 and 13.81 %, respectively, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). In the hyperpigmentation model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the faces of 21 human subjects. The averaged intensity of the hyperpigmented spots decreased by 2.67 % in the test group and 1.46 % in the control group, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). Therefore, RTA incorporated into cosmetic formulations can whiten human skin without inducing skin irritation.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ja Hyun Ryu
- Dermapro Skin Research Center, Dermapro Ltd., Seoul, Republic of Korea
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