Advanced hair damage model from ultra-violet radiation in the presence of copper

Effects of ultraviolet rays and particulate matter on hair porosity in damaged hair

BACKGROUND

With growing interest in hair health, researchers are exploring aspects beyond the surface qualities of hair, such as its porous inner structure. While previous studies have focused on the effects of treatments such as perming and hair dying on hair porosity, less emphasis has been paid to the effects of harmful environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) rays and particulate matter on the porous nature of hair.

AIMS

The aim of this study was to bridge this gap by investigating how UV rays and particulate matter affect hair porosity in different ways. Our study could help elucidate how these external factors influence hair health and shed light on previously unknown aspects of hair porosity.

METHODS

Hair tresses were bleached, cut into 1 cm-long sections, and stained with methylene blue. The sections were then irradiated with UV light or exposed to particulate matter.

RESULTS

Bleached hair absorbed more methylene blue than normal hair. UV radiation-induced hair porosity occurred at 3 h after irradiation and increased with time. Particulate matter alone did not affect the porosity of the damaged hair; however, in combination with UV irradiation, it substantially increased hair porosity.

CONCLUSION

Environmental challenges such as a depleted ozone layer and increasing pollution may increase hair porosity, which can be prevented by maintaining healthy hair.

Applications of MALDI mass spectrometry in forensic science

Forensic chemistry literature has grown exponentially, with many analytical techniques being used to provide valuable information to help solve criminal cases. Among them, matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometry (MALDI MS), particularly MALDI MS imaging (MALDI MSI), has shown much potential in forensic applications. Due to its high specificity, MALDI MSI can analyze a wide variety of compounds in complex samples without extensive sample preparation, providing chemical profiles and spatial distributions of given analyte(s). This review introduces MALDI MS(I) to forensic scientists with a focus on its basic principles and the applications of MALDI MS(I) to the analysis of fingerprints, drugs of abuse, and their metabolites in hair, medicine samples, animal tissues, and inks in documents.

The key phytochemistry of rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) contributing to hair protection against UV

Extracts from rosemary (Salvia Rosmarinus) are analysed for their phytochemistry using LC-MS and the phytochemistry identified. The same extracts were tested for their efficacy to act as antioxidants by both hydrogen-atom transfer (ORAC) and single electron transfer (FRAP). A correlation analysis was performed to identify the key phytochemistry responsible for antioxidant efficacy. The top performing extracts were then tested in a peptide model and in hair with the presence of UV to measure ability to protect against UV-induced peptide and protein damage. Polyphenols (e.g. rosmarinic acid, glycosides of selgin) and abietane diterpenes (e.g. carnosic acid) in rosemary were identified as the principal compounds which enables the extracts to protect hair from UV.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this work was to correlate the phytochemistry of rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus), a botanical with known antioxidant properties, to a UV protection benefit in hair. These data will give insights into mechanisms of UV damage, the ROS formed and their reactivity.

METHODS

LC-MS was used to compare the compounds in 10 commercial extracts of rosemary. ORAC (oxygen radical antioxidant capacity) and FRAP (ferric reducing antioxidant power) were used to measure the antioxidant capacity of the rosemary extracts. The ORAC assay measures ability of an antioxidant to react with a peroxyl radical via hydrogen atom extraction and FRAP measures electron transfer through reduction of ferric iron (Fe3+ ) to ferrous iron (Fe2+ ) by antioxidants present in the samples. Correlation of extract composition with antioxidant measures was performed using principal component analysis. Selected extracts were assessed for their ability to protect hair from UV damage in a model peptide system and on hair. In addition, the same methods were used to test rosmarinic acid and carnosic acid, key phytochemistries in the rosemary extracts. The model system was a peptide and its decomposition on exposure to UV was monitored by LC-MS in the absence and presence of the rosemary extracts. Hair degradation in the presence of UV was measured by exposure of UV in an Atlas weatherometer followed by extraction of degraded protein in water. A fragment of the S100A3 protein was used as a marker of UV damage (m/z = 1278) and quantified via LC-MS.

RESULTS

Ten rosemary extracts were assessed for antioxidant performance and correlated with their compositions. The phytochemistry in each extract varied widely with a total of 33 individual compounds identified. The differences were most likely driven by the solvent and extraction method used by the supplier with extracts varying in the proportion of polar or non-polar compounds. This did influence their reactivity in the ORAC and FRAP assays and their efficacy in preventing protein damage. Two of the key compounds identified were rosmarinic acid and carnosic acid, with rosmarinic acid dominating in extracts with mainly polar compounds and carnosic acid dominating in extracts with mainly nonpolar compounds. Extracts with higher rosmarinic acid correlated with ORAC and FRAP scores, with UV protection on hair and in the peptide model system. The extracts chosen for hair experiments showed hair protection. UV protection was also measured for rosmarinic and carnosic acid.

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the variation in the profile of phytochemistries in the 10 rosemary extracts, likely driven by the chosen extraction method, all rosemary extracts had antioxidant activity measured. This study suggests that the polyphenols (e.g. rosmarinic acid, glycosides of selgin) and abietane diterpenes (e.g. carnosic acid) are the principal compounds which enables the extracts to protect hair from UV.

Determination of Free Histidine in Complex Hair Care Products with Minimum Sample Preparation Using Cation-Exchange Chromatography and Post Column Derivatization

In this communication, we describe the first analytical method for the determination of free histidine in hair care products (shampoos and conditioners). Cation-exchange chromatography combined with postcolumn derivatization and fluorimetric detection enabled the accurate (recovery: 83.5-114.8%) and precise (2.4-5.6% RSD) determination of free histidine without matrix interferences at concentration levels down to 1.5 mg kg^-1. Real commercially available samples were found to contain the amino acid at levels ranging between 70 and 535 mg kg^-1.

Protection of hair from damage induced by ultraviolet irradiation using tea (Camellia sinensis) extracts

BACKGROUND

Damage to hair by UV is relevant to most people, and for many, it is a major source of hair damage. Prevention of UV damage is of high interest to cosmetic companies.

OBJECTIVES

Describe UV damage mechanisms and link these mechanisms to measurable changes in hair protein composition and color changes resulting from breakdown of yellow-colored kynurenines. Test the power of botanical antioxidants, specifically Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts to prevent this protein damage and color change. Link specific phytochemistry of extract samples to hair performance.

METHODS

Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts were analyzed by LC-MS to identify the key composition chemistries. ORAC (Oxygen Radical Antioxidant Capacity) was used to measure ability of the extract to react with a peroxyl radical via a hydrogen abstraction mechanism. Hair protein structural damage was measured by quantification of a biomarker peptide that is specific to UV-induced damage and hair color changes were measured with a spectrophotometer.

RESULTS

Levels of key phytochemistry in the extracts, specifically the catechins, correlated with prevention of UV-induced protein damage and prevention of color changes due to kynurenine breakdown. Extracts with higher phytochemistry levels also had higher ORAC scores indicating that they were more effective antioxidants.

CONCLUSIONS

Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts can be used as effective protective treatments for hair protection but this efficacy is linked to extract concentrations of key chemistries (catechins).

Edible Plant Oil: Global Status, Health Issues, and Perspectives

Edible plant oil (EPO) is an indispensable nutritional resource for human health. Various cultivars of oil-bearing plants are grown worldwide, and the chemical compositions of different plant oils are diverse. The extremely complex components in oils lead to diverse standards for evaluating the quality and safety of different EPOs. The environment poses great challenges to the EPO safety and quality during the entire industrial chain, including plant cultivation, harvesting, oil processing, and storage. Environmental risk factors include heavy metal or pesticide residue pollution, insect or harmful microbial infestation, and rancidity. Here, the diverse components in oil and various oil-producing processes are discussed, including plant species, oil yield, and composition complexity, environmental factors that degrade oil quality. Additionally, we propose a whole-industrial-chain monitoring system instead of current single-link-monitoring approach by monitoring and tracking the quality and safety of EPOs during the entire process of plant cultivation, raw materials harvest, oil process, and EPOs storage. This will provide guidance for monitoring the quality and safety of EPOs, which were challenged by the deteriorating environment.

Age-Related Changes in Hair Shaft Protein Profiling and Genetically Variant Peptides

Recent reports highlight possible improvements in individual identification using proteomic information from human hair evidence. These reports have stimulated investigation of parameters that affect the utility of proteomic information. In addition to variables already studied relating to processing technique and anatomic origin of hair shafts, an important variable is hair ageing. Present work focuses on the effect of age on protein profiling and analysis of genetically variant peptides (GVPs). Hair protein profiles may be affected by developmental and physiological changes with age of the donor, exposure to different environmental conditions and intrinsic processes, including during storage. First, to explore whether general trends were evident in the population at different ages, hair samples were analyzed from groups of different subjects in their 20's, 40's and 60's. No significant differences were seen as a function of age, but consistent differences were evident between European American and African American hair profiles. Second, samples collected from single individuals at different ages were analyzed. Mostly, these showed few protein expression level differences over periods of 10 years or less, but samples from subjects at 44 and 65 year intervals were distinctly different in profile. The results indicate that use of protein profiling for personal identification, if practical, would be limited to decadal time intervals. Moreover, batch effects were clearly evident in samples processed by different staff. To investigate the contribution of storage (at room temperature) in affecting the outcomes, the same proteomic digests were analyzed for GVPs. In samples stored over 10 years, GVPs were reduced in number in parallel with the yield of identified proteins and unique peptides. However, a very different picture emerged with respect to personal identification. Numbers of GVPs sufficed to distinguish individuals despite the age differences of the samples. As a practical matter, three hair samples per person provided nearly the maximal number obtained from 5 or 6 samples. The random match probability (where the log increased in proportion to the number of GVPs) reached as high as 1 in 10⁸. The data indicate that GVP results are dependent on the single nucleotide polymorphism profile of the donor genome, where environmental/processing factors affect only the yield, and thus are consistent despite the ages of the donors and samples and batchwise effects in processing. This conclusion is critical for application to casework where the samples may be in storage for long periods and used to match samples recently collected.

UV damage to hair and the effect of antioxidants and metal chelators

OBJECTIVE

To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (terephthalate) and free radical photoyellowing, were used. These methods utilized different UV sources and reaction conditions, and so can give insights into the different mechanisms of action occurring during UV oxidation of hair. In addition, this study demonstrates how antioxidants and chelators can be screened to determine whether they can protect hair from UV damage.

RESULTS

The three methods gave somewhat different results, illustrating the importance of reaction conditions and wavelength on the photochemical mechanisms, and the efficacy of additives to influence these reactions. EPR results showed that N-acetylcysteine (NAC) pre-treatment eliminated the intensity of the signal because of sulphur and carbon free radicals in white hair both before and after exposure to UVB radiation. Doping the hair with copper ions had no effect on the intensity of the EPR signal under dry conditions. Terephthalate fluorescent probe data showed that under wet conditions, irradiation of white hair with UVA produced significant amounts of hydroxyl radicals. Pre-treatment of hair with NAC reduced the number of •OH radicals produced by natural white hair compared to an untreated control. In contrast to the EPR result, white hair doped with copper ions produced significantly higher levels of •OH radicals under wet conditions. It appears that the ability of copper ions to catalyse the photogeneration free radicals in hair is highly dependent on water content. Photoyellowing data showed a benefit for oxalic acid but no difference for NAC and an increase in yellowing for EDTA.

CONCLUSION

The micro-EPR and terephthalate fluorescent probe methods are both effective techniques to study production of free radicals by hair exposed to UV light under wet and dry conditions, respectively. Both assays are simple methods for determining the effectiveness of potential protective hair treatments against UV damage, but because they assess free radical damage under dry vs wet conditions, the chemistry created on UV exposure is different. This gives insights into mechanism of action, but results may not be consistent between the two methods for actives added for reduction of UV damage. NAC pre-treatment did reduce free radical generation in UV-exposed hair under both wet and dry conditions. Photoyellowing data are more complicated as it is a less direct measure of UV damage and is highly dependent on irradiation source. Using UVB irradiation is experimentally convenient but may not be appropriate, because UVB wavelengths comprise only 0.3% of terrestrial sunlight. The photochemistry of hair exposed to sunlight involves concurrent photobleaching and photoyellowing processes and is far more complex. Under UVB irradiation conditions, oxalic acid showed a yellowing benefit.

Human pollution exposure correlates with accelerated ultrastructural degradation of hair fibers

Air pollution via phototoxic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) is a major risk factor for human health. While in vitro observations and in vivo correlations suggest a detrimental effect of PAHs at physiological concentrations, in vivo observations of the structural impact of PAHs are scarce. Here, we use transmission electron microscopy on human hair fibers containing known concentrations of 25 biomarkers of PAH exposure. We show an increased structural degradation of the hair fiber over time, when increased PAH concentrations are present. Moreover, we show that exposure to UV radiation explains part of the increased damage in more contaminated fibers. Our results point toward possible detrimental effects in other human tissues at physiological concentrations of PAHs.

Exposure to pollution is a known risk factor for human health. While correlative studies between exposure to pollutants such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and human health exist, and while in vitro studies help to establish a causative connection, in vivo comparisons of exposed and nonexposed human tissue are scarce. Here, we use human hair as a model matrix to study the correlation of PAH pollution with microstructural changes over time. Two hundred four hair samples from 2 Chinese cities with distinct pollution exposure were collected, and chromatographic-mass spectrometry was used to quantify the PAH-exposure profiles of each individual sample. This allowed us to define a group of less contaminated hair samples as well as a more contaminated group. Using transmission electron microscopy (TEM) together with quantitative image analysis and blind scoring of 82 structural parameters, we find that the speed of naturally occurring hair-cortex degradation and cuticle delamination is increased in fibers with increased PAH concentrations. Treating nondamaged hair fibers with ultraviolet (UV) irradiation leads to a more pronounced cortical damage especially around melanosomes of samples with higher PAH concentrations. Our study shows the detrimental effect of physiological concentrations of PAH together with UV irradiation on the hair microstructure but likely can be applied to other human tissues.

Effect of humidity on photoinduced radicals in human hair

EPR spectroscopy was used to monitor formation of free radicals in human hair upon UV irradiation. While the EPR spectra of brown hair were dominated by melanin signal, those of white hair were keratin-derived. The decay of UV induced keratin radicals was enhanced at increased ambient humidity. We argue that at higher humidity the swollen hair provides a more liquid-like environment, and higher molecular mobility in this environment leads to faster radical reactions. This interpretation is consistent with the increased UV-triggered protein damage in hair at high humidity as demonstrated by the protein loss, MALDI-TOF and FT-IR data.

Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties

BACKGROUND

The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon.

OBJECTIVES

(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-life' conditions of severe aerial pollution and (iii) to assess the changes of the hair surface properties, potentially caused by the adherence of airborne PM onto the hair.

METHODS

In vitro: a PM was sprayed onto untreated or sebum-coated hair swatches. Real-life conditions: other swatches were exposed to a severely polluted environment, for 24 to 72 h, in Baoding (PR China). In both cases, swatches were examined using scanning electron microscopy. The shine, the frictional properties and the level of metals were measured and compared to those same properties for the unexposed swatches.

RESULTS

This work clearly indicates that, under real-life conditions, a large number of PM of various sizes are deposited onto the hair surface. This phenomenon is increased by the presence of sebum and longer exposure times. The in vitro level of PM deposited onto the hair surface is comparable to the in vivo level. The presence of sebum seems to favour the deposit of larger PM. The shine of the exposed swatches is significantly decreased, whereas their respective friction coefficients are significantly increased. Both the presence of sebum and length of exposure time increased the amount of analysed metals present on the exposed hair surface (Al, Fe, Cu, Ba and Zn).

CONCLUSION

This work indicates that a very high amount (e.g. billions) of PM can be deposited on a full head of hair for subjects living in a severely aerially polluted environment. This process can be reproduced in vitro. In real-life, pollution has a strong impact on hair surface properties, leading to a modification of the visual aspect (loss of shine) and the alteration of hair surface (increase in friction force). This work may be used to pave the way for prevention and cleansing studies in the field of hair care.

Preserving fibre health: reducing oxidative stress throughout the life of the hair fibre

Hair health is an important attribute to women globally--specifically attributes such as shine, healthy tips, frizz-free and strength. However, many women will claim to have at least moderate hair damage caused by habits and practices such as washing, combing and brushing, use of heated implements and regular use of chemical treatments. The objective of this work was to investigate two mechanisms of damage--hair colouring and UV exposure--where oxidative processes are involved. The role of copper in these oxidative processes was then investigated: its presence in hair and its consequent impact on hair damage via free radical formation. Finally, the role of chelants N,N'-ethylene diamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and histidine in preventing free radical formation was investigated and shown to improve hair health.

Age-dependent damage of hair cuticle: contribution of S100A3 protein and its citrullination

BACKGROUND

There are two types of damage pattern of human hair cuticle: type L, where the cell membrane complex is split and the cuticle lifts up, and type E, where the fragile substructure of the cuticle cell (endocuticle) is broken. In our previous paper, it was reported that the dominant damage pattern shifts from type L to E with the subjects' age around the 40s. Loss of the cuticle due to daily grooming stresses increases with the subjects' age and is related to the level of type E damage. It is supposed that deterioration of endocuticle advances the loss of cuticle. S100A3 protein, located at the endocuticle, was found to be citrullinated and transformed into tetramer to improve its Ca(2+) -binding ability. It is postulated that this biochemical property affects the maturation of cuticle and contributes to its reinforcement.

AIMS

This study aims to elucidate the role that S100A3 plays in age-dependent cuticle damage.

METHODS

Hair fibers collected from Japanese females were evaluated for the content and citrullination rate of S100A3, incidence of type E damage, and resistance of cuticle.

RESULTS

In the aged hair, the content of S100A3 was positively correlated with the level of type E damage and low resistance to stress. Hair fibers in which S100A3 is highly citrullinated, however, showed low levels of type E damage and high resistance of cuticle, even in the aged hair as well as at younger ages.

CONCLUSIONS

S100A3 and its citrullination process are related to rigidity of endocuticle of aged hair.