Supercritical CO2 extract from strawberry seeds as a valuable component of mild cleansing compositions

Towards a modern approach to traditional use of Helichrysum italicum in dermatological conditions: In vivo testing supercritical extract on artificially irritated skin

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Helichrysum italicum has been widely used in traditional medicine to treat allergies, colds, cough, skin, liver and gallbladder disorders, inflammation, infections, and sleeplessness. Furthermore, it possesses considerable wound healing and skin protective properties, documented by several in vivo studies performed on animals. However, there is a lack of experimental evidence supporting its potential as a topical agent tested by human clinical trials.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The study aimed to investigate the skin protective activity of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric, impregnated with H. italicum extract by the integrated supercritical CO₂ extraction-supercritical solvent impregnation process.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The integrated process of supercritical CO₂ extraction of H. italicum and the impregnation of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric was performed under 350 bar and 40 °C with and without the addition of ethanol as a cosolvent. Impregnated textile materials were tested in vivo for their bioactivity on irritated human skin. Randomized in vivo studies performed involved assays of both safety and efficacy of the impregnated textiles. The effects were evaluated using the in vivo non-invasive biophysical measurements of the following skin parameters: electrical capacitance, transepidermal water loss, melanin index, erythema index, and skin pH.

RESULTS

Both cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric were impregnated with H. italicum extracts under supercritical conditions with considerable values of the impregnation yield (1.97%-4.25%). The addition of ethanol as a cosolvent during the process caused significant changes in the incorporated extracts' impregnation yield and chemical profile. Both impregnated textile materials were safe, evaluated by their testing on the human skin with no cause of any irritation and redness. However, efficacy studies revealed that polypropylene non-woven fabric impregnated with H. italicum extract with ethanol as a cosolvent, possessed significantly greater potential for skin protection than the other investigated samples.

CONCLUSIONS

The present study demonstrated the feasibility of the combined supercritical extraction and impregnation process in developing materials for topical application based on H. italicum extract. The results of in vivo studies performed on human volunteers confirmed the suitability of H. italicum active components to be a part of human skin protective preparations because of their ability to maintain the skin unimpaired. Traditionally claimed applications as a medicinal plant capable of regenerating skin have been scientifically proven, in addition to employing green technology in obtaining the impregnated materials with a broad spectrum of utilization.

Application of Levan-Rich Digestate Extract in the Production of Safe-to-Use and Functional Natural Body Wash Cosmetics

The study focused on the evaluation of the possibility of using a levan-rich digestate extract in the production of safe and functional body wash cosmetics. Model shower gels were designed and formulated on the basis of raw materials of natural origin. Prepared prototypes contained various extract concentrations (16.7; 33; 50%). A gel without extract was used as a reference. The samples were evaluated for their safety in use and functionality. The results showed that the use of high-concentration levan-rich digestate extract in a shower gel resulted in a significant reduction in the negative impact on the skin. For example, the zein value decreased by over 50% in relation to the preparation without the extract. An over 40% reduction in the emulsifying capacity of hydrophobic substances was also demonstrated, which reduces skin dryness after the washing process. However, the presence of the extract did not significantly affect the parameters related to functionality. Overall, it was indicated that levan-rich digestate extract can be successfully used as a valuable ingredient in natural cleansing cosmetics.

Evaluation of the Quality of Bath Cosmetics in Powder Form Depending on the Selection of Fillers

The aim of the study was to evaluate the effects of hydrophilic microcrystalline cellulose, hydrophobic talc and mixtures of cellulose and talc when used as fillers in powdered bath cosmetics. A number of model formulations were developed that contained fillers in different compositions. Prototypical formulations were prepared and evaluated for their functional properties and skin-drying effect. An increase in the concentration of talc was found to reduce the ability of the formulations to emulsify fatty soils and, consequently, decrease the skin-drying effect after washing. Another result of the study is that a high content of talc does not significantly impair the foaming ability, and the presence of talc improves the stability of generated foam.

Fragaria Genus: Chemical Composition and Biological Activities

The strawberries represent in our days one of the main fresh fruits consumed globally, inevitably leading to large amounts of by-products and wastes. Usually appreciated because of their specific flavor, the strawberries also possess biological properties, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, or anti-inflammatory effects. In spite of the wide spread of the Fragaria genus, few species represent the subject of the last decade scientific research. The main components identified in the Fragaria species are presented, as well as several biological properties, as emerging from the scientific papers published in the last decade.

Effect of N-dodecyl-N-(propylpiperydinium-3-sulfonate) on Usage Properties of Liquid Soaps for Sensitive Skin

The aim of the study was to assess the effect of N-dodecyl-N-(propylpiperidinium-3-sulfonate) on the physico-chemical and functional properties of liquid soaps for sensitive skin. The studied materials consisted of originally formulated liquid soaps containing amphoteric surfactants including cocamidopropyl betaine and newly synthesized sulfobetaine in the following ratios: 0 : 0, 1 : 1, 0 : 2 and 2 : 0. The aim of study was to examine the effects of the additive on the surface tension of aqueous soap solutions, wetting properties, dynamic viscosity, emulsification of fatty soils, foaming properties, antimicrobial characteristics and skin irritation potential. It is shown that the liquid soaps obtained in the study effectively reduce the surface tension of water – which may indicate good washing properties – and demonstrated desirable wetting properties. The application of N-dodecyl-N-(propylpiperidinium-3-sulfonate) in cosmetic formulations makes it possible to obtain products with the required viscosity, fat emulsification capacity and foaming properties. It needs to be emphasized that sulfobetaines added to the prototypical liquid soaps also demonstrate antibacterial characteristics and reduce the skin irritant effect caused by anionic surfactants.

The effect of chamomile extract obtained in supercritical carbon dioxide conditions on physicochemical and usable properties of pharmaceutical ointments

The study investigated the effect of chamomile extract obtained in supercritical carbon dioxide conditions on the basic properties of pharmaceutical ointments. A total of five formulations were designed and prepared, differing in the weight ratio of sunflower oil to chamomile extract (5:0, 3.5:1.5, 2.5:2.5, 1.5:3.5 and 0:5). An increase in the concentration of chamomile extract was found to be accompanied by a decrease in hardness, adhesive power and flow limit. Based on viscosity measurements it was shown that ointments containing the hydrophobic plant extract under study were prone to larger drops in viscosity under the effect of the set shear rate. It was determined that from the viewpoint of ointment spreadability and application to the skin, the optimum concentration of chamomile extract for the studied formulations should be within the range of 1.5-2.5%. Furthermore, the addition of chamomile extract to ointments was found to give samples a yellow-green color. Green was observed to be the dominant color, and its saturation and shade varied for different formulations.