Standardized extract of wild apple fruit in alkyl-polyglucoside-based cosmetic cream - estimation of stability, safety, antioxidant activity and efficiency

Exhausted Grape Seed Residues as a Valuable Source of Antioxidant Molecules for the Formulation of Biocompatible Cosmetic Scrubs

Grape seed of Obeidi, a white Lebanese autochthonous variety, was previously tested in different studies as a valuable source of bioactive molecules such as polyphenols, oils, and proteins by means of extraction procedures for the development of cosmetic and therapeutic products. However, an un-valorized, exhausted grape seed residue remains as "secondary waste" after the extraction processes. In this study, the exhausted seeds have been further exploited to produce cosmetic scrubs capable of releasing antioxidant molecules during the exfoliation process, in accordance with the principles of the circular economy and going toward a zero-waste process. The deep characterization of the exhausted seeds confirmed the presence of antioxidant phenolic molecules including gallic acid, catechins and protocatechuic acid (0.13, 0.126, and 0.089 mg/g of dry matter DM), and a high phenolic content (11.85 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g of dry matter (DM)). Moreover, these residues were shown to possess a sandy texture (Hausner ratio (HR): 1.154, Carr index (CI): 0.133, and angle of repose: 31.62 (°) degrees), similar to commercial natural exfoliants. In this respect, exhausted Obeidi grape seed residues were incorporated at increasing concentrations (0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2% w/w) in a cosmetic scrub, and stored for 5 weeks at 4, 25, and 50 °C for stability testing. All tested scrub formulations exhibited good spreadability with a spread diameter of 3.6-4.7 cm and excellent physical stability, as no phase separation or color change were observed after four cycles of heat shock at 4 and 50 °C. Finally, an in vivo skin irritation test showed that the scrub enriched with 1.5% of exhausted Obeidi grape seed residues was the most promising formulation, as it possessed a high amount of phenolic molecules (0.042 ± 0.001 mg GAE/mL of scrub) and good stability and could be safely applied to the skin with no irritation phenomena. Overall results underlined that exhausted grape seed residues can be transformed into promising systems for both physical and chemical exfoliation, thus confirming the importance of the effective exploitation of agro-industrial by-products for the development of high value cosmeceutics towards a more sustainable and zero-waste approach.

Stability and Antioxidant Activity of Hydro-Glyceric Extracts Obtained from Different Grape Seed Varieties Incorporated in Cosmetic Creams

Grape seeds are agro-industrial by-products, which if improperly managed, may be responsible for socioeconomic and environmental problems. Nevertheless, it is possible to effectively valorize them by means of extraction of the bioactive compounds, especially the antioxidant phenolic molecules, using a safe, green, and environmentally-friendly extractive medium (i.e., hydro-glyceric solution). In the present study, the extraction was performed using seeds from two Lebanese varieties, Obeidi and Asswad Karech, and three international varieties, Marselan, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. The type and amount of phenolic compounds were identified by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Marselan was the extract richer in catechins (132.99 ± 9.81 μg/g of dried matter), and it also contained a higher amount of phenolic compounds (49.08 ± 0.03 mg of gallic acid equivalent/g of dry matter and 10.02 ± 0.24 mg of proanthocyanidin content/g of dry matter). The antioxidant capacity of the extracts was assessed using three different colorimetric assays including 2,2-DiPhenyl-1-PicrylHydrazyl (DPPH), CUPRIC ion Reducing Antioxidant Capacity (CUPRAC), and Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP). As expected, Marselan exhibited the highest antioxidant activity; as well, the total phenolic and proanthocyanidin content were the highest. The stability of the Marselan extract incorporated into a commercial cream, was performed at three different temperatures (4, 25, and 50 °C), and four different concentrations (5, 4, 3, 2%), over a period of 4 months, using different methods such as centrifugation, Heat-Shock Cycles, pH, and viscosity. All Marselan hydro-glyceric extract formulations were proven to be stable over the entire 4 months, where the highest stability was achieved at 4 °C and the least at 50 °C. This study supports the suitability of the incorporation of phenolic extracts into commercial creams to enrich the cosmetic industry with effective, natural, and safe skincare products.

Efficient Extraction of Total Polyphenols from Apple and Investigation of Its SPF Properties

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic emulsions with the addition of hydroalcoholic apple extract. First, the total polyphenolic content, the antioxidant activity and SPF properties of the extracts obtained by sonication and refluxing were evaluated. The two extraction methods were improved using the central composite design. For cosmetic emulsion that contained a different concentration of apple extract (10-40%), a SPF value between 0.51 and 0.90 was obtained. The most efficient apple extract was obtained by reflux using 50% ethanol and a 60 min extraction time. The concentrated extract was incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion whose SPF maximum was 0.90. Accordingly, due to photoprotective properties, the apple extract can be a candidate for use in cosmetic formulations.

Standardized wild apple fruit extract as a bioactive agent in dermocosmetic products for efficacy skin hydration - in vitro and in vivo evaluation

BACKGROUND

Wild apple fruit are rich source of bioactive substances, which can be potentially used for a production of dermocosmetic products.

AIM

The aim of study was in vitro and in vivo investigation of standardized wild apple fruit extracts (obtained by purified water and maceration-EM, percolation-EP, Soxhlet extraction-ES and ultrasonic extraction-EU) and dermocosmetic creams of o/w type containing 6%, 12% and 15% of extract-EU, as extract with the best content of polyphenolic compounds (CE6, CE12, CE15, respectively), in order to determine the optimal concentration of the extract, which manifests the best effect on the biophysical characteristics of the skin after application.

METHODS

Content of polyphenolic substances-PP was investigated using HPLC analysis, while in vitro biological activity was examined on L929 fibroblasts using MTT viability test. In vivo efficacy included screening and comparation of skin hydration potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL and skin pH after 28 days of creams application on healthy volunteers' skin.

RESULTS

Content of identified PP was the highest in the extract-EU (2001.57±0.87 mgPP/100gEU) and satisfactory in cream-CE6 (53.83±0.23 mgPP/100gCE6). Procyanidin B2 was the most common PP. Biological activity analysis showed that extract-EU could be considered as non-cytotoxic for fibroblasts in examined concentrations. In vivo investigation revealed an increase of skin hydration (after 28 days ΔEC was 21.19±7.59, 26.71±7.94 and 29.60±10.95 for CE6, CE12 and CE15, respectively), with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values.

CONCLUSION

Obtained results indicate that wild apple fruit extract represents a valuable source of bioactive substances, with good hydration effects of creams on human skin (effect of creams increased proportionally to the increase of concentration of incorporated extract), so it might be considered as a great potential for application in dermocosmetic industry.

Apple Extract (Malus sp.) and Rutin as Photochemopreventive Agents: Evaluation of Ultraviolet B-Induced Alterations on Skin Biopsies and Tissue-Engineered Skin

The skin is exposed to the solar ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, which leads to the formation of several types of skin damage responsible for cancer initiation and aging. Malus sp. is a genus of apples, which are a good source of polyphenolic compounds. Malus sp. and more precisely one of its components, rutin, have preventive effects on many diseases caused by reactive oxygen species. In addition, previous studies have suggested the topical usage of the extract as a cosmetic product to prevent skin damage caused by oxidative stress. In this study, we evaluated the efficacy of two topical formulations containing 1.25% of Malus sp. extract and the equivalent amount of rutin (0.75%). The photochemopreventive effect was assessed on two three-dimensional (3D) skin models, that is, ex vivo skin explants and 3D tissue-engineered skin to compare the models. Both formulations protected against the UVB-induced increase in sunburn cell formation, as well as caspase-3 activation and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer formation in both skin models. Furthermore, the formulations inhibited the lipid peroxidation and the metalloproteinase formation induced by UVB radiation. The tissue-engineered skins and the skin explants provided effective tools to assess the UVB-induced damages. These results support use of the Malus sp. extract and rutin as skin photochemopreventive agents for topical application.

Isovitexin Increases Stem Cell Properties and Protects Against PM2.5 in Keratinocytes

Background/Aim: Fine airborne particles of Particular Matter of less than 2.5 micrometers (PM _2.5 ) have been recognized as a dominant air contamination causing critical health concerns. Herein, we determined whether isovitexin, a natural plant-derived compound could protect PM_2.5-mediated oxidative stress and induce stemness in epidermal cells. Materials and Methods: Cell viability was detected by the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5 diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) were determined by flow cytometry with 2',7'-dichlorofluorescin diacetate (DCFH-DA). Protein hallmarks of stem cells were examined by western blot analysis. Results: PM_2.5 treatment for 30 min increased the levels of intracellular ROS. Pre-treatment of cells with 10-50 μM of isovitexin dramatically inhibited the ROS induced by PM_2.5. Antioxidant efficacy of isovitexin was also determined by the ROS scavenging activity against 2,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ABTS and superoxide anion radicals. In addition, we found that isovitexin enhanced the stem cell properties of keratinocytes, indicated by the significant increase in the levels of stem cell proteins. Conclusion: Isovitexin can be potentially used as an effective compound for preventing skin damage.

Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit extract, stabilized by conventional non-ionic emulsifier-CEW, in order to determine the influence of emulsifiers (conventional vs. biodegradable) on the characteristics of creams and their effects on the skin.

METHODS

Organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis was performed, determination of fruit acids-FAs content (using HPLC analysis) and estimation of its antioxidant activity-AA (using DPPH test) during 180 days. In vivo study included following examinations: screening of safety profile (after creams application under occlusion during 24 h at human skin); skin moisturizing potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH after 28 days of cream application and hypopigmentation efficacy 7 days of cream application at artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Investigated cosmetic cream-CEW showed satisfactory organoleptic, physico-chemical characteristics, stability, FAs content (0.13%) and AA (19.25 ± 0.67 %RSC) after preparation, which remained unchanged over the study period. In vivo investigation revealed absence of skin irritation after CEW's application under occlusion. An increase of skin moisturization (after 14 days ΔEC was 18.52 ± 11.51 and after 28 days of applications 16.52 ± 9.36) during 28 day-study, with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values was shown. Decrease of melanin index was revealed, too (after 7 days ΔMI was -31.40 ± 16.50).

CONCLUSION

Cosmetic cream stabilized by conventional emulsifier showed better antioxidant potential and weaker moisturizing and hypopigmentation effects related to the cream with same composition but stabilized by biodegradable emulsifiers. Based on all mentioned above, investigated cosmetic cream might be considered for potential use as modern, stable, safe and efficient cosmetic product in the prevention and/or treatment of oxidative stress-related skin changes and/or damages, for moisturization of dry, even irritated skin as well as for lightening of hyperpigmented skin. RÉSUMÉ: OBJECTIF Le but de l'étude était la caractérisation in vitro et in vivo d'une crème cosmétique contenant 6 % d'extrait normalisé de pomme sauvage, stabilisée par un émulsifiant non ionique conventionnel-CEW, afin de déterminer l'influence des émulsifiants (conventionnels vs biodégradables) sur les caractéristiques des crèmes et les effets sur la peau. MÉTHODES: Des analyses organoleptiques et physico-chimiques (pH et conductivité électrique) ont été effectuées, la détermination de la teneur en acides de fruits et en acides gras polyinsaturés (par CLHP), et l'estimation de sa teneur en activité antioxydante (AA) (à l'aide du test DPPH) pendant 180 jours. L'étude in vivo comprenait les examens suivants : dépistage du profil d'innocuité (après application de crèmes sous occlusion pendant 24 h sur la peau humaine); potentiel d'hydratation de la peau, perte d'eau transépidermique (PETE), pH de la peau après 28 jours d'application de la crème et efficacité de l'hypopigmentation après 7 jours d'application de la crème sur une hyperpigmentation de la peau induite artificiellement. RÉSULTATS: La crème cosmétique-CEW étudiée a montré des caractéristiques organoleptiques, physico-chimiques, une stabilité, une teneur en AG (0,13 %) et en AA (19,25 ± 0,67 % RSC) satisfaisantes après préparation, qui sont demeurées inchangées au cours de la période de l'étude. L'étude in vivo a révélé l'absence d'irritation cutanée après l'application de CEW sous occlusion. Une augmentation de l'hydratation de la peau (après 14 jours de DEC était de 18,52 ± 11,51 et après 28 jours d'applications de 16,52 ± 9,36) pendant l'étude de 28 jours, avec une PETE et des valeurs de pH cutané inchangées, a été démontrée. Une diminution de l'indice de mélanine a été mise en évidence également (après 7 jours, ΔMI était de 31,40 ± 16,50).

CONCLUSION

La crème cosmétique stabilisée par un émulsifiant conventionnel a montré un meilleur potentiel antioxydant et des effets d'hydratation et d'hypopigmentation plus faibles par rapport à la crème de même composition mais stabilisée par des émulsifiants biodégradables. D'après les données précédentes, la crème cosmétique étudiée pourrait être considérée comme un produit cosmétique moderne, stable, sûr et efficace dans la prévention et/ou le traitement des changements et/ou dommages cutanés liés au stress oxydatif, pour l'hydratation de la peau sèche, voire irritée, ainsi que pour éclaircir la peau hyperpigmentée.