The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching - studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics

Taxonomy for the assessment of the subjective experience of curly hair manageability

OBJECTIVES

This paper aims to develop and validate a taxonomy for the assessment of the subjective experience of curly hair manageability. It represents the latter of two iterative stages of a mixed-method design interdisciplinary project.

METHODS

The qualitative stage of the study incorporated thematic analysis of 14 interview transcripts generated using a video-ethnographic method (SEBE). A survey-based instrument assessing different elements of the construct of hair manageability designed during the first stage of this project was further developed following consultations with experts with extensive experience in hair research, product development, testing and trichology. The instrument was tested online with 506 female participants self-reporting natural curly hair, types 3A and higher according to the Andre Walker Curl Classification.

RESULTS

The initial construct of four groups of hair goals received positive content validity from the experts. High scale reliability was achieved for the aesthetic, haptic and emotive goals' scales as well as for hair esteem (Cronbach's alpha >0.75). Curl type was the only personal hair attribute that was correlated with hair goals and perceptions. From the demographic and lifestyle data, only age was correlated with goals and willingness to try new products. Common hair practices and product usage were also correlated with hair curl and goals.

CONCLUSION

The appropriateness of the instrument for measuring the strength of different hair goals and perceptions relevant to hair curvature degree and hair esteem has been validated. The instrument will support the development and testing of products better aligned with the manageability needs of very curly and textured hair. It was also confirmed that hair curvature is the most significant determinant of practices, and age of product attitudes.

Penetration of oils into hair

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this work was to understand how triglyceride plant oils can deliver strength and softness benefits to hair by their penetration. These plant oils are complex mixtures of TAGs, so the initial studies performed were with pure TAGs and then these data compared to plant oils and their measured TAG compositions.

METHODS

LC-MS was used to identify the di and triglycerides in coconut oil, Camellia oleifera oil and safflower seed oil. Penetration of these plant oils and pure individual triglycerides was measured by a differential extraction method. Cross-sections of oils treated with 13C-labelled triolein were studied by NanoSIMS to visualize location of triglyceride inside hair. Fatigue strength was measured using constant stress to generate a survival distribution. Models of the lipid-rich cell membrane complex (CMC) were created with the equimolar ratio of 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid (MEAS), palmitic acid (C16:0) and oleic acid (C18:1).

RESULTS

Penetration of the individual pure TAGs was confirmed for all chain lengths and degree of unsaturation tested with higher penetration for shorter chain lengths and unsaturated fatty acids. Detailed compositional analysis of selected plant oils showed a wide variety of TAGs and penetration was also demonstrated for these oils. NanoSIMS and modelling confirmed these TAGs are penetrating the lipid-rich CMC of hair and are interacting with the fatty acids that make up the CMC. All plant oils delivered a fatigue strength improvement by penetration into the CMC and it is proposed that these oils prevent formation and/or propagation of flaws in the CMC network that leads to breakage.

CONCLUSIONS

Many plant oils with a wide range of triglyceride compositions can penetrate into hair and NanoSIMS data confirmed these oils partition into the lipid-rich cell membrane complex. Penetration studies of individual TAGs shown to be present in these oils confirmed TAGs of varying chain length can penetrate and there is a correlation between increased penetration efficacy and shorter chain lengths and presence of unsaturation in the fatty acid chains. All the oils studied delivered single fibre fatigue strength benefits.

Age-related hair denaturation related to protein carbonyls

OBJECTIVE

Hair ageing is accompanied by hair fibres becoming irregularly shaped causing them to stick out in irregular directions or have more curliness and being spread out. This is believed to be due to changes within the hair fibre structure which occur with ageing, and one of the causes of these changes could be an increase in the number of protein carbonyl groups present in the hair. The aim of this study is to investigate the internal denaturation of hair related to protein carbonyls in attempt to gain new insight into age-related changes that occur in hair.

METHODS

The degree of carbonylation of the hair structural protein as determined by fluorescent labelling and Western blotting analysis was used to investigate the primary structure of hair protein. The amount of helix, a common conformation in the secondary structure of proteins, in hair in groups of women with different ages was also analysed using infrared microscopy coupled with multivariate curve resolution (MCR). From the results of this, an image of the two-dimensional distribution of the α-helices was generated for the hair taken from each age group. Also, high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC) of the hair in water was performed on the hair taken from each age group to determine the peak temperature of endothermic effect and the enthalpy of denaturation.

RESULTS

We found that the amino group content in hair proteins decreased and Type II keratin, one of the subunits of intermediate filament, was more carbonylated with age. The results of the MCR indicated eight separate components, including components of the secondary structure of proteins, such as α helices and β sheets. Two-dimensional images of the hair cross-sections revealed that the presence of α helices decreased with age. In addition, data from the HPDSC showed that the enthalpy associated with the denaturing temperature also significantly decreased with age.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that there is a negative correlation between age and structural integrity of the helix segment in intermediate filament. The results of this study also show that there is a positive correlation between age-related hair denaturation and protein carbonyls.

Optical evaluation of internal damage to human hair based on second near-infrared window polarization microscopy

OBJECTIVE

Hair beauty treatments glorify human life. As a side effect, there is a risk of deteriorating the health of the hair. Optically polarized microscopy has been used for many decades to evaluate hair conditions owing to its ease of use and low operating costs. However, the low biopermeability of light hinders the observation of detailed structures inside hair. The aim of this study is to establish an evaluation technique of internal damages in a hair by utilizing a near-infrared (NIR) light with a wavelength of 1000-1600 nm, called "second NIR window".

METHODS

We built a laser scanning transmission microscope system with an indium gallium arsenide detector, a 1064 nm laser source, and optical circular polarization to visualize the anisotropy characterization of keratin fibres in hair. Samples of Asian black hair before and after bleaching, after permanent-waving, after lithium bromide (LiBr) treatment, and after heating was observed. Some parameters reflecting intra-hair damage were quantitatively compared with the parameters in digitally recorded images with analytical developments.

RESULTS

The light transmittance of black hair was dramatically improved by utilizing the second NIR window. Numerical analysis of circular polarization in hair quantified the internal damage in chemically or thermally treated hair and found two different types of damage. The present method enabled quantitative evaluation of the condition changes in the cortex; for example, a decrease in circular polarizability by LiBr treatment and restoration by replacing the LiBr solution with water. In addition, black speckles were observed after the heat treatment. Longer heating and wetting times increased the appearance probability and size of the speckles. According to quantitative analyses, the emergence of black spots was independent of polarizability changes, indicating that they were not pores.

CONCLUSION

Circular polarization microscopy based on near-infrared optics in the second NIR window provides an effective evaluation method for quantifying intra-hair damage caused by cosmetic treatments. The present method provides noninvasive, easy, and inexpensive hair evaluation and has potential as a gold standard in hair care research/medical fields.

Alterations promoted by acid straightening and/or bleaching in hair microstructures

Human hair is a biopolymer constituted mainly of keratin intermediate filaments, lipids, pigments and water. Cosmetic treatments usually interact with the hair at the molecular level, inducing changes in its components and modifying the physicochemical and mechanical properties of the fibers. Here, the effect of acid straightening on the morphology and ultrastructure of Caucasian hair was investigated by a group of complementary experimental methods: wide-, small- and ultra-small-angle X-ray scattering; high-resolution 3D X-ray microscopy; quasi-elastic neutron scattering and inelastic neutron scattering; thermogravimetry-mass spectrometry; and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). X-ray diffraction patterns showed that acid straightening associated with a flat iron (∼180°C) changed the cortex of the fiber, shown by denaturation of the intermediate filaments (measured by DSC). The increase in the spacing of the lipid layers and the observation of the dehydration behavior of the fiber provided indications that water may be confined between these layers, while neutron spectroscopy showed alterations in the vibration mode of the CH2 groups of the lipids and an increase of the proton (H+) mobility in the hair structure. The latter may be associated with the extremely low pH of the formulation (pH ≃ 1). Additionally, this investigation showed that bleached hair (one-time bleached) is more damaged by the action of acid straightening than virgin hair, which was shown by a threefold increase in the percentage of total porosity of the tresses. The obtained results demonstrate that the investigation approach proposed here can provide very important thermodynamic and structural information on induced changes of hair structure, and certainly can be applied for the evaluation of the action mode and efficiency of cosmetic treatments.

An efficient ultrasonic-assisted bleaching strategy customized for yak hair triggered by melanin-targeted Fenton reaction

Promoting processing efficiency and taking advantage of agricultural by-products are two promising ways to achieve sustainable textile industry. This study presents a customized efficient ultrasonic-assisted bleaching strategy for yak hair - a widely existing but underexploited secondary dark shade fibre from yak. A melanin-targeted Fenton oxidation process is established which involves three phases, i.e., (I) incorporation of Fe²⁺ ions with melanin, (II) catalytic oxidative bleaching using hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and (III) reductive cleansing. The bleaching efficacy, dyeing performance and tensile property of yak hair treated with and without ultrasound were explored and compared. Further, the ultrasonic bleaching mechanism in terms of the catalytic effect of Fe²⁺ ions, the promotion of H₂O₂ decomposition, removal of melanin granule from yak hair, were demonstrated. Finally, the main effects and interactions of parameters in phase II, and optimal condition were obtained through mathematical modelling based on a central composite design (CCD). Results reveal that ultrasonic bleaching dramatically enhances the whiteness index (WI) of yak hair from 11 to 45 which is 44.6% higher than those bleached without ultrasound, and also promotes the uptake of acid dyes. There is only 15% tensile strength loss and 14% elongation increment of yak hair after ultrasonic bleaching, rising from a slight damage of cuticle layer and cleavage of disulfide bonds, respectively. In the study of bleaching mechanism, Fe²⁺ ion is confirmed to improve the H₂O₂ decomposition rate by 20.9% which further runs up to 35.9% after introducing ultrasound. Ultrasound increases the concentration of hydroxyl radicals (HO) by 94% which are the main oxidative species participating in bleaching confirmed by HO scavenging experiment. The porous structure was observed on the cross section of yak hair stemming from the removal of melanin granules contributed by the cleaning action of ultrasound. A theoretical highest WI of 52.4 can be achieved under an optimal condition based on the CCD study. In general, the proposed melanin-targeted bleaching strategy for yak hair that integrates ultrasonic technology and Fenton reaction, is beneficial to the development of sustainable textile industry from material and processing perspectives.

Coarse-grained molecular models of the surface of hair

We present a coarse-grained molecular model of the surface of human hair, which consists of a supported lipid monolayer, in the MARTINI framework. Using coarse-grained molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, we identify a lipid grafting distance that yields a monolayer thickness consistent with both atomistic MD simulations and experimental measurements of the hair surface. Coarse-grained models for fully-functionalised, partially damaged, and fully damaged hair surfaces are created by randomly replacing neutral thioesters with anionic sulfonate groups. This mimics the progressive removal of fatty acids from the hair surface by bleaching and leads to chemically heterogeneous surfaces. Using molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, we study the island structures formed by the lipid monolayers at different degrees of damage in vacuum and in the presence of polar (water) and non-polar (n-hexadecane) solvents. We also use MD simulations to compare the wetting behaviour of water and n-hexadecane droplets on the model surfaces through contact angle measurements, which are compared to experiments using virgin and bleached hair. The model surfaces capture the experimentally-observed transition of the hair surface from hydrophobic (and oleophilic) to hydrophilic (and oleophobic) as the level of bleaching damage increases. By selecting surfaces with specific damage ratios, we obtain contact angles from the MD simulations that are in good agreement with experiments for both solvents on virgin and bleached human hairs. To negate the possible effects of microscale curvature and roughness of real hairs on wetting, we also conduct additional experiments using biomimetic surfaces that are co-functionalised with fatty acids and sulfonate groups. In both the MD simulations and experiments, the cosine of the water contact angle increases linearly with the sulfonate group surface coverage with a similar slope. We expect that the proposed systems will be useful for future molecular dynamics simulations of the adsorption and tribological behaviour of hair, as well as other chemically heterogeneous surfaces.

Redox proteomics analysis of hair shaft proteins upon hydrothermal and alkaline insult

OBJECTIVE

Human hair is regularly subjected to chemical and physical insults, such as heat, UV-irradiation and alkaline hair care products. These insults result in molecular modifications at the hair protein level that underpin mechanical and sensory property changes in the fibres. These changes can manifest itself in reduced hair quality and performance attributes observable to the consumer. In this work, changes in protein modification as a result of heat and alkaline treatments are determined.

METHODS

Redox proteomic profiling using high-resolution mass spectrometry was applied to map and evaluate amino acid residue modifications in human hair exposed to a combination of thermal treatments and alkali exposure with the aim to understand the underlying chemical processes.

RESULTS

Our results show that an increase in redox-related modifications is associated with exposure to higher levels of hydrothermal and alkaline insult. Post-translational modification profiling at the protein primary structural level delivered some further insights into the site-specificity of these modifications, with a clear increase in the number of cysteic acid modifications noticed in samples subjected to more extreme insults.

CONCLUSION

Pinpointing modification sides within proteins and the hair shaft proteome can be used as a basis for employing mitigation or repair strategies of hair protein damage caused by environmental or hair treatment-related insults.

Processing hair follicles for transmission electron microscopy

Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) has greatly advanced our knowledge of hair growth and follicle morphogenesis, but complex preparations such as fixation, dehydration and embedding compromise ultrastructure. While recent developments with cryofixation have been shown to preserve the ultrastructure of biological materials close to native state, they do have limitations. This review will focus on each stage of the TEM sample preparation process and their effects on the structural integrity of follicles.

Cheating on forensic hair testing? Detection of potential biomarkers for cosmetically altered hair samples using untargeted hair metabolomics

Hair analysis has become an integral part in forensic toxicological laboratories for e.g. assessment of drug or alcohol abstinence. However, hair samples can be manipulated by cosmetic treatments, altering drug concentrations which eventually leads to false negative hair test results. In particular oxidative bleaching of hair samples under alkaline conditions significantly affects incorporated drug concentrations. To date, current techniques to detect cosmetic hair adulterations bear limitations such as the implementation of cut-off values or the requirement of specialized instrumentations. As a new approach, untargeted hair metabolomics analysis was applied to detect altered, endogenous biomolecules that could be used as biomarkers for oxidative cosmetic hair treatments. For this, genuine hair samples were treated in vitro with 9% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) for 30 minutes. Untreated and treated hair samples were analyzed using liquid-chromatography high-resolution time-of-flight mass spectrometry. In total, 69 metabolites could be identified as significantly altered after hair bleaching. The majority of metabolites decreased after bleaching, yet totally degraded metabolites were most promising as suitable biomarkers. The formation of biomarker ratios of metabolites decreasing and increasing in concentrations improved the discrimination of untreated and treated hair samples. With the results of this study, the high variety of identified biomarkers now offers the possibility to include single biomarkers or biomarker selections into routine screening methods for improved data interpretation of hair test results.

Brief descriptions of the principles of prominent methods used to study the penetration of materials into human hair and a review of examples of their use

Consumers are attracted to the latest fashion trends and different looks. This drives the search for novel hair treatments. Some chemicals present in hair treatment products can penetrate the hair shaft. These materials can either nourish or injure the hair cortex. Different techniques have been used to investigate the mechanism of molecule penetration and the conditions under which penetration occurs. This article reviews the techniques applied for this purpose. Various microscopy techniques are used to capture clear and colourful images to determine the diffusion pathways and the exact location of the molecules under study. However, the laborious sample preparation often leads to sample destruction since cross-sectioning is often required. While various other techniques have been successfully used for investigating the penetration methods, most of these require different amounts of work to be put in for sample preparation and instrumentation. Several spectroscopic techniques have been used to study the penetration of the molecules because of the high levels of accuracy and the quick response time of these techniques. Moreover, the samples are not damaged during the investigation.

Evaluation of the surface properties of hair with acoustic emission analysis

OBJECTIVE

The tactile sensation of hair is an important consumer-perceivable attribute. There are limited instrumental options to measure the haptic properties of hair. In this study, we introduce a novel technique using the acoustic emissions produced when skin comes in contact with dry hair in a stroking motion.

METHODS

Using a free-field microphone with a frequency response of 8-12,500 Hz, we recorded acoustic emission data of the interaction of skin with hair. Data were captured with Electroacoustics Toolbox software and analysed with Matlab. Acoustic emission profiles were generated allowing us to monitor the acoustic response at distinct frequencies.

RESULTS

Various experiments were conducted to develop this novel technique as a suitable measure to monitor the surface properties of hair. Increasing the normal force and velocity of the interaction led to an increase in acoustic emissions. We also examined the acoustic profile of hair that underwent chemical treatment. For example, bleached hair produced a much higher magnitude acoustic response than the corresponding virgin hair. On the other hand, hair conditioner systems mitigated the acoustic response. Finally, investigations of textured hair revealed that the three-dimensional structure of the hair fibre assembly and its ability to return to its original state when perturbed produce the most dominant acoustic response for this type of hair.

CONCLUSION

We introduce a cutting-edge method to reproducibly evaluate the surface properties of hair. Different types of hair geometry produce unique acoustic profiles as do hair types that experience harsh damaging treatments. This is also a very practical and efficient way to evaluate the degree of protection or conditioning of the fibre.

Improved two-dimensional electrophoretic mapping of Japanese human hair proteins; application to curved and straight Japanese human hairs; and protein identification by MALDI MS and MS/MS quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate improved protein extraction and two-dimensional electrophoresis (2DE) separation methods with Japanese reference human hair (JRH); to determine whether fibre curvature is related to protein composition in curly and straight Japanese women's human hair (JHH) samples; and to identify proteins from JRH 2DE maps and expression differences between curly and straight JHH.

METHODS

Hair keratin and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) were extracted intact with dithiothreitol or tris(2-carboxyethyl) phosphine from JRH or from curved or straight JHH. Extracted proteins were isoelectric-focused on first-dimensional pH gradient gel strips, then separated by molecular weight on laboratory-made, second-dimension, large format gels. The software compared protein abundance between duplicate 2DE gels of curved and straight JHH. Thirty-eight proteins from a JRH 2DE gel were enzyme-cleaved for MALDI-TOF-MS analysis to determine peptide composition, and where possible, de novo sequencing gave peptide sequence data. An in-house human hair protein database incorporating ninety-eight annotated protein sequences assisted MS analysis.

RESULTS

2DE gels of tris(2-carboxyethyl) phosphine-extracted JRH improved keratin and KAP resolution and number compared to those of dithiothreitol-extracted JRH and published commercially made second-dimensional gels. Silver-stained 2DE gels of the straight or curved JHH sets were remarkably similar. Over-staining to reveal basic proteins caused poor resolution of the major acidic protein classes. Software comparisons of fifty-nine resolved proteins revealed two were significantly different in abundance between curved and straight hairs but in insufficient amounts for MS analysis. MS identified twelve proteins from a JRH CBBG-stained 2DE gel: six type II keratins, three type I keratins and three high sulphur proteins. A further eight were potential conformational isoforms and isoelectric variants of the identified proteins bringing the total to twenty identified or partially identified proteins.

CONCLUSION

Root-end human hair extraction with tris(2-carboxyethyl) phosphine improves protein resolution and visualizes more proteins on large format 2DE gels. The two minor protein differences between duplicate straight or curved JHH 2DE gels were unlikely to change fibre structure from straight to curved hair. MS results confirmed that multiple isoforms exist of various hair proteins. Low sequence coverage prevented distinction between members in rows of homologous protein spots of similar molecular weight.

A possible new oxidation marker for hair adulteration: Detection of PTeCA (1H-pyrrole-2,3,4,5-tetracarboxylic acid) in bleached hair

Hair analysis has become a valuable tool in forensic toxicology to assess drug or alcohol abstinence. Yet, hair adulteration by cosmetic products presents a major challenge for forensic hair analysis. Oxidative treatments, e.g. bleaching, may lead to analyte loss and thereby to false negative results. Currently, the eumelanin degradation product 1H-pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) serves as a marker for oxidative hair treatment, but requires the definition of cut-off values. To investigate further eumelanin degradation products as markers for oxidative hair treatment, hair samples with and without in vitro bleaching (hydrogen peroxide (H₂ O₂ ) concentrations 1.9% up to 12%; incubation times 15 min, 30 min, 60 min) were analyzed by liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution time of flight mass spectrometry (HPLC-HRMS). The distribution of eumelanin degradation products along the hair shaft was investigated for routine applicability after segmentation of cosmetically untreated hair samples and authentically treated hair samples. The signals of the eumelanin degradation products PTCA, 1H-pyrrole-2,3,4-tricarboxylic acid (isoPTCA), and 1H-pyrrole-2,3,4,5-tetracarboxylic acid (PTeCA) were found to be significantly elevated after in vitro bleaching already with low H₂ O₂ concentrations and after short incubation times. In contrast to PTCA and isoPTCA, PTeCA was not detectable in cosmetically untreated segments up to 12 cm from hair root and was only formed through the oxidation process. The results of the study show that the detection of PTeCA within the proximal 3 to 6 cm segment can be applied to reliably detect hair adulteration attempts through hair bleaching.