Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers

Recent Applications of Melanin-like Nanoparticles as Antioxidant Agents

Nanosized antioxidants are highly advantageous in terms of versatility and pharmacokinetics, with respect to conventional molecular ones. Melanin-like materials, artificial species inspired by natural melanin, combine recognized antioxidant (AOX) activity with a unique versatility of preparation and modification. Due to this versatility and documented biocompatibility, artificial melanin has been incorporated into a variety of nanoparticles (NP) in order to give new platforms for nanomedicine with enhanced AOX activity. In this review article, we first discuss the chemical mechanisms behind the AOX activity of materials in the context of the inhibition of the radical chain reaction responsible for the peroxidation of biomolecules. We also focus briefly on the AOX properties of melanin-like NP, considering the effect of parameters such as size, preparation methods and surface functionalization on them. Then, we consider the most recent and relevant applications of AOX melanin-like NPs that are able to counteract ferroptosis and be involved in the treatment of important diseases that affect, e.g., the cardiovascular and nervous systems, as well as the kidneys, liver and articulations. A specific section will be dedicated to cancer treatment, since the role of melanin in this context is still very debated. Finally, we propose future strategies in AOX development for a better chemical understanding of melanin-like materials. In particular, the composition and structure of these materials are still debated, and they present a high level of variability. Thus, a better understanding of the mechanism behind the interaction of melanin-like nanostructures with different radicals and highly reactive species would be highly advantageous for the design of more effective and specific AOX nano-agents.

Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds

OBJECTIVE

A combined treatment using both low-frequency (20 kHz) and high-frequency ultrasounds (1.63 MHz) is a promising new process to stabilize emulsions with minimalist formulation. In order to optimize process parameters, a Doehlert experimental design was performed with oil-in-water emulsions, presently used for cosmetic products, composed of water, caprylic/capric triglycerides and oleic acid.

METHODS

Effects of treatment time, oil content and oleic acid content were studied on emulsion properties (droplet size, polydispersity index, ζ-potential and yield of oil incorporation) and on emulsion stability after a 28-day storage (creaming index, Turbiscan stability index (TSI) and oil release).

RESULTS

From experimental data, a model was established that allowed to study effects of each parameter and their interactions on emulsion formation and stability. Oleic acid content had a great impact on emulsion formation: It reduced droplet size, PDI and ζ-potential and increased yield of oil incorporation. However, a critical value could be highlighted, beyond which oleic acid effects reversed. Treatment time had an important beneficial effect on emulsion stability as it decreased creaming index, TSI and oil release after 28 days of storage. Oil content had a negative effect on emulsion formation and on emulsion stability. However, treatment time and oil content often had a beneficial synergistic effect.

CONCLUSION

The optimized conditions for emulsion processing were obtained through a desirability approach. They were experimentally validated.

Chemical composition, antioxidant activity and development of a facial serum formulation from the extract of Hancornia speciosa

The goal of this work was to chemically characterise Hancornia speciosa extracts to develop an antioxidant serum formulation. Stem and bark extracts were prepared using 70% hydroethanol solution by Sohxlet and ultrasound assisted extraction. The content of total phenols, flavonoids, and antioxidant activity were evaluated, and chemical characterization was performed by HPLC -detector UV-VIS (SPD - 10 A). The formulation was developed with stem extract (0.250 mg/g) in hydroxyethylcellulose fluid gel. Stem extracts had higher total phenols and flavonoids, and higher antioxidant activity than bark extracts. The formulation presented low viscosity, a yellowish colour, 81.28% ± 0.14 of antioxidant activity. In the stability test, the physicochemical characteristics showed small variations, remaining more stable at a temperature of 5 °C, with an antioxidant activity of 64.81% ± 0.75. Therefore, the stem of H. speciosa has the potential to be used in antioxidant formulations.

Efficient Extraction of Total Polyphenols from Apple and Investigation of Its SPF Properties

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic emulsions with the addition of hydroalcoholic apple extract. First, the total polyphenolic content, the antioxidant activity and SPF properties of the extracts obtained by sonication and refluxing were evaluated. The two extraction methods were improved using the central composite design. For cosmetic emulsion that contained a different concentration of apple extract (10–40%), a SPF value between 0.51 and 0.90 was obtained. The most efficient apple extract was obtained by reflux using 50% ethanol and a 60 min extraction time. The concentrated extract was incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion whose SPF maximum was 0.90. Accordingly, due to photoprotective properties, the apple extract can be a candidate for use in cosmetic formulations.

Standardized wild apple fruit extract as a bioactive agent in dermocosmetic products for efficacy skin hydration - in vitro and in vivo evaluation

BACKGROUND

Wild apple fruit are rich source of bioactive substances, which can be potentially used for a production of dermocosmetic products.

AIM

The aim of study was in vitro and in vivo investigation of standardized wild apple fruit extracts (obtained by purified water and maceration-EM, percolation-EP, Soxhlet extraction-ES and ultrasonic extraction-EU) and dermocosmetic creams of o/w type containing 6%, 12% and 15% of extract-EU, as extract with the best content of polyphenolic compounds (CE6, CE12, CE15, respectively), in order to determine the optimal concentration of the extract, which manifests the best effect on the biophysical characteristics of the skin after application.

METHODS

Content of polyphenolic substances-PP was investigated using HPLC analysis, while in vitro biological activity was examined on L929 fibroblasts using MTT viability test. In vivo efficacy included screening and comparation of skin hydration potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL and skin pH after 28 days of creams application on healthy volunteers' skin.

RESULTS

Content of identified PP was the highest in the extract-EU (2001.57±0.87 mgPP/100gEU) and satisfactory in cream-CE6 (53.83±0.23 mgPP/100gCE6). Procyanidin B2 was the most common PP. Biological activity analysis showed that extract-EU could be considered as non-cytotoxic for fibroblasts in examined concentrations. In vivo investigation revealed an increase of skin hydration (after 28 days ΔEC was 21.19±7.59, 26.71±7.94 and 29.60±10.95 for CE6, CE12 and CE15, respectively), with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values.

CONCLUSION

Obtained results indicate that wild apple fruit extract represents a valuable source of bioactive substances, with good hydration effects of creams on human skin (effect of creams increased proportionally to the increase of concentration of incorporated extract), so it might be considered as a great potential for application in dermocosmetic industry.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Polyglycerol Ester-Based Low Energy Nanoemulsions with Red Raspberry Seed Oil and Fruit Extracts: Formulation Development toward Effective In Vitro/In Vivo Bioperformance

This study focuses on the development of biocompatible oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions based on polyglycerol esters, as promising carriers for natural actives: red raspberry seed oil—RO and hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry—RE and French oak—FE. Nanoemulsions were obtained via phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature by dilution of microemulsion phase, confirmed by visual appearance, percentage of transmittance, microscopic, rheological and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) investigations. The results have shown that the basic RO-loaded formulation could be further enriched with hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry or French oak, while keeping a semi-transparent appearance due to the fine droplet size (Z-ave: 50 to 70 nm, PDI value ≤ 0.1). The highest antioxidant activity (~92% inhibition of the DPPH radical) was achieved in the formulation containing both lipophilic (RO) and hydrophilic antioxidants (FE), due to their synergistic effect. The nanoemulsion carrier significantly increased the selective cytotoxic effect of RO towards malignant melanoma (Fem-X) cells, compared to normal human keratinocytes (HaCaT). In vivo study on human volunteers showed satisfactory safety profiles and significant improvement in skin hydration during 2 h after application for all nanoemulsions. Therefore, polyglycerol ester-based nanoemulsions can be promoted as effective carriers for red raspberry seed oil and/or hydro-glycolic fruit extracts in topical formulations intended for skin protection and hydration.