Development of Phytocosmeceutical Microemulgel Containing Flaxseed Extract and Its In Vitro and In Vivo Characterization

Antioxidants from natural sources are extensively attaining consideration to avert the skin from damage and aging caused by free radicals. Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum L.), a natural therapeutic agent, was meant to be explored cosmeceutical by quantifying its potential phytoconstituents and to be incorporated into a microemulgel for topical use. Hydroalcoholic fractions (both methanolic and ethanolic; 80%) flaxseed extracts were subjected to phytochemical screening by quantifying total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and high-performance liquid chromatography-ultraviolet (HPLC-UV), and for biological activities through 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, and sun protection factor (SPF). Ethanolic fraction was selected for further study by TPC (18.75 mg gallic acid equivalent/g) and TFC (1.34 mg quercetin equivalent/g). HPLC-UV analysis showed the existence of benzoic, quercetin, caffeic, vanillic, p-coumaric, gallic, cinnamic, syringic, and sinapic acids. Biological activities showed 87.00%, 72.00%, and 21.75 values for DPPH assay, tyrosinase inhibition, and SPF assays, respectively. An oil-in-water (OW) microemulsion containing the flaxseed extract, with 99.20 nm Zeta size, −19.3 Zeta potential and 0.434 polydispersity index was developed and incorporated in Carbopol-940 gel matrix to formulate an active microemulgel with 59.15% release in in vitro studies. The successfully formulated stable active microemulgel produced statistically significant effects (p < 0.05), in comparison to a placebo, on skin erythema, melanin, sebum, moisture, and elasticity, in a noninvasive in vivo study performed on 13 healthy human female volunteers. Other cosmeceutical products can also be formulated from flaxseed, making it a considerable candidate for further utilization in the pharmaceutical industry.

Chemical composition, antioxidant activity and development of a facial serum formulation from the extract of Hancornia speciosa

The goal of this work was to chemically characterise Hancornia speciosa extracts to develop an antioxidant serum formulation. Stem and bark extracts were prepared using 70% hydroethanol solution by Sohxlet and ultrasound assisted extraction. The content of total phenols, flavonoids, and antioxidant activity were evaluated, and chemical characterization was performed by HPLC -detector UV-VIS (SPD - 10 A). The formulation was developed with stem extract (0.250 mg/g) in hydroxyethylcellulose fluid gel. Stem extracts had higher total phenols and flavonoids, and higher antioxidant activity than bark extracts. The formulation presented low viscosity, a yellowish colour, 81.28% ± 0.14 of antioxidant activity. In the stability test, the physicochemical characteristics showed small variations, remaining more stable at a temperature of 5 °C, with an antioxidant activity of 64.81% ± 0.75. Therefore, the stem of H. speciosa has the potential to be used in antioxidant formulations.

Screening of ninety herbal products of commercial interest as potential ingredients for phytocosmetics

Elastase and tyrosinase are important targets both for cosmetics and for dermatological disorders. In this work, ninety herbal products were tested as inhibitors of these two enzymes. Eleven extracts resulted strongly active. Four out of them (Camellia sinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Rhodiola rosea, Vitis vinifera) inhibited both enzymes, five (Glycyrrhiza glabra, Ribes nigrum, Rheum officinale, Salvia officinalis, Tilia platyphyllos) were active against tyrosinase only, and two (Ceterach officinarum and Cinnamomum zeylanicum) proved selectively active against elastase. The IC₅₀ ranged from 3.1 to 104.9 μg/mL and 19.3 to 164.3 μg/mL, against elastase and tyrosinase, respectively. The most active extracts resulted enriched in flavonoids (from 1.47 to 56.47 mg RE/g of extract) and phenolics (from 37.43 to 123.56 mg GAE/g of extract), indicating also an antioxidant potential. Finally, a positive correlation between enzymatic bioactivities and phenolic content was also established.