Characterization and topical delivery of phenylethyl resorcinol

Glycols: The ubiquitous solvent for dermal formulations

Glycols stand out as one of the most commonly employed safe and effective excipients for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products. Their widespread adoption can be attributed to their exceptional solvency characteristics and their ability to interact effectively with skin lipids and keratin for permeation enhancement. Notably, propylene glycol enjoys significant popularity in this regard. Ongoing research endeavours have been dedicated to scrutinising the impact of glycols on dermal drug delivery and shedding light on the intricate mechanisms by which glycols enhance skin permeation. This review aims to mitigate the discordance within the existing literature, assemble a holistic understanding of the impact of glycols on the percutaneous absorption of active compounds and furnish the reader with a profound comprehension of the foundational facets pertaining to their skin permeation enhancement mechanisms, while simultaneously delving deeper into the intricacies of these processes.

Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

Nanoliposome Use to Improve the Stability of Phenylethyl Resorcinol and Serve as a Skin Penetration Enhancer for Skin Whitening

Phenylethyl resorcinol (PR) is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor and a cosmeceutical skin lightening agent. However, the application of PR is limited by photoinstability and poor solubility. In this study, we formulated and optimized phenylethyl resorcinol loaded nanoliposomes (PR-NLPs) to improve the stability and effective delivery of PR. PR-NLPs were prepared by the ethanol injection method and optimized by a single factor experimental and Box–Behnken design. In addition, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) as the UBA absorber was added to PR-NLPs, which significantly improved the photostability of PR. The mean size, polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential of the optimized PR-NLPs were 130.1 ± 3.54 nm, 0.225 ± 0.02, and −43.9 ± 3.44 mV, respectively. The drug encapsulation efficiency (EE) and loading efficiency (LC) of PR-NLPs were 96.81 ± 3.46% and 8.82 ± 0.6%, respectively. These PR-NLPs showed good physicochemical stability for 3 months at 4 °C and 25 °C in the dark. They showed typical sustained and prolonged drug-release behavior in vitro. The in vitro cytotoxicity assay and cellular uptake demonstrated that the PR-NLPs had excellent biocompatibility and cell transport ability. It significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and reduced melanin production in B16F10 cells at concentrations of 20 or 30 μg/mL. Moreover, the PR-NLPs enhanced the PR into the skin. These results indicate that PR-NLPs can be used as a nanocarrier to improve the transdermal delivery of PR.

Use of an In Vitro Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Assay (Skin-PAMPA) as a Screening Tool to Compare Transdermal Permeability of Model Compound 4-Phenylethyl-Resorcinol Dissolved in Different Solvents

Absorption through the skin of topically applied chemicals is relevant for both formulation development and safety assessment, especially in the early stages of development. However, the supply of human skin is limited, and the traditional in vitro methods are of low throughput. As an alternative, an artificial membrane-based Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeability Assay (Skin-PAMPA) has been developed to mimic the permeability through the stratum corneum. In this study, this assay was used to measure the permeability of a model compound, 4-phenylethyl-resorcinol (PER), dissolved in 13 different solvents that are commonly used in cosmetic formulation development. The study was performed at concentrations close to the saturated solution of PER in each solvent to investigate the maximum thermodynamic potential of the solvents. The permeability of PER in selected solvents was also measured on ex vivo pig skin for comparison. Pig ear skin is an accepted alternative model of human skin. The permeability coefficient, which is independent of the concentration of the applied solution, showed a good correlation (R² = 0.844) between the Skin-PAMPA and the pig skin permeation data. Our results support the use of the Skin-PAMPA to screen the suitability of different solvents for non-polar compounds at an early stage of formulation development.

Spherical Nucleic Acids for Topical Treatment of Hyperpigmentation

Oligonucleotide-based materials such as spherical nucleic acid (SNA) have been reported to exhibit improved penetration through the epidermis and the dermis of the skin upon topical application. Herein, we report a self-assembled, skin-depigmenting SNA structure, which is based upon a bifunctional oligonucleotide amphiphile containing an antisense oligonucleotide and a tyrosinase inhibitor prodrug. The two components work synergistically to increase oligonucleotide cellular uptake, enhance drug solubility, and promote skin penetration. The particles were shown to reduce melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells and exhibited a potent antimelanogenic effect in an ultraviolet B-induced hyperpigmentation mouse model.

Enhancing trans-resveratrol topical delivery and photostability through entrapment in chitosan/gum Arabic Pickering emulsions

The surfactant-free nature and higher stability of Pickering emulsions make them preferable solutions over conventional emulsions for skin applications. In this work, Pickering emulsions stabilized by chitosan/gum Arabic (CH/GA) nanoparticles were tested as vehicles for trans-resveratrol topical delivery. Skin absorption was examined ex vivo using Franz diffusion cells and porcine skin. Pickering emulsions allowed higher cutaneous retention and lower permeation of resveratrol, in comparison with a control solution based on a 20% v/v ethanol. The total amount of resveratrol retained in the skin, 24 h after the application, was 11.60% and 10.82% of the applied dose for the tested Pickering emulsion-based formulations prepared with 0.5% and 1.5% w/v CH/GA nanoparticles, respectively. In contrast, resveratrol skin retention from the control solution was only 2.86%. Confocal laser scanning microscopy revealed enhanced skin deposition of Nile Red to deeper layers from the Pickering emulsion-based formulations. Moreover, Pickering emulsions led to trans-resveratrol photostability increase, as measured after exposure to UV for 4 h. These results show that the CH/GA Pickering emulsions are promising solutions for the topical delivery of trans-resveratrol and have the potential to be used as green cosmetic products.