Upregulation of CD44 and Hyaluronate Synthases by Topical Retinoids in Mouse Skin

Top weapons in skin aging and actives to target the consequences of skin cell senescence

Skin aging has long been considered a purely cosmetic problem. However, as life expectancy increases, skin aging is taking on a functional dimension that goes beyond cosmetics and appearance. Preventive or therapeutic strategies are needed to target cellular senescence, a key process underlying the alterations in skin function and appearance that occur with aging, as well as to address the age-related skin changes associated with 'dermatoporosis' and chronic skin insufficiency/fragility syndrome. Thus, given the need for effective anti-aging products that improve both the appearance and function of the skin, it is essential to distinguish active ingredients that have been proven to be effective, among the large number of available over-the-counter cosmeceuticals. This brief review focuses on a core group of topical actives, describing their clinical effects on senescence and aging, and their molecular mechanisms of action. These actives include hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties and has been shown to reduce skin atrophy; retinaldehyde, which activates retinoid receptors and increases cutaneous elasticity; vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection; and niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence.

Efficacy and Safety of Topical or Oral Hydrolyzed Collagen in Women with Dermatoporosis: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Factorial Design Study

BACKGROUND

Dermatoporosis defines the progressive chronic cutaneous insufficiency syndrome. Stage I is characterized by cutaneous atrophy, senile purpura, and stellate pseudoscars.

OBJECTIVE

To assess clinical, histologic, quality of life, and biophysical effects of oral and/or topical hydrolyzed collagen (HC) on forearm skin of postmenopausal women with Dermatoporosis stage I.

METHODS

Double-blind randomized placebo-controlled factorial design study. Two groups of menopausal women with stage I dermatoporosis on forearms were randomized to oral HC 5 g/day or matching placebo, and also to topical serum 2.5% HC or matching placebo once a day, for 6 months.

RESULTS

A total of 56 women, age range 60-93 years (mean 69.5 ± 7.3 years) were included. Comparing data from baseline and after 6 months, no significant difference was observed for each intervention nor their comparison, for all efficacy parameters: clinical and quality of life scores, dermal elasticity, thickness and echogenicity, and histologic and immunohistochemical markers (p > 0.1).

LIMITATIONS

Larger studies to confirm our findings are warranted.

CONCLUSIONS

In menopausal women with stage I dermatoporosis, oral or topical collagen peptides used alone or in combination do not have benefits on forearm skin after 6 months of intervention, and therefore should not be used routinely in this population. CONSORT flow chart.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) stimulates the in vitro expression of CD44 proteins but not HAS1 proteins in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) and is HA molecular weight dependent

BACKGROUND

In the skin, hyaluronic acid is broken down to smaller fragments by hyaluronidase enzymes, particularly when skin is wounded. The impact of various molecular weight fragments of HA on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) with regard to expression of important cellular proteins has not been deeply explored.

AIMS

Examination of three molecular weight (Mw) fractions of hyaluronic acid: 1) average Mw of the high fraction: 1.5-2 MDa, 2) average Mw of the medium fraction: 200-500 kDa, and 3) average Mw of the low fraction: 5-10 kDa and a unique 1:1:1 composite complex of the three HA fragments (Triluronic^® Acid) was done to examine the influence of the HA on two critical skin cell protein targets: hyaluronan synthase-1 (HAS-1) and the HA binding protein cluster of differentiation 44 (CD44).

METHODS

NHEKs were treated in vitro with a 1.0% stock solution of each HA Mw fraction at 1.0, 0.5, and 0.1% concentrations of the 1.0% solution and the polysaccharide composite at the same concentrations for 48 Hrs. The cells were than analyzed by ELISA protein assays for HAS-1 and CD44 protein content.

RESULTS

Examination of HAS-1 protein expression indicates that none of the HA test materials influenced the expression of HAS-1 at any concentration. Examination of the CD44 protein expression indicated that the low Mw fraction and the commercial complex of the three Mw fractions upregulated CD44 protein expression in NHEKs, but the medium Mw and high Mw HA fractions did not.

CONCLUSIONS

In this work, it was demonstrated that HA can influence the expression of CD44 protein, a critical HA transmembrane HA binding protein, and the influence appears to be molecular weight dependent.

The efficacy and safety of multilamellar vesicle containing retinaldehyde: A double-blinded, randomized, split-face controlled study

BACKGROUND

Retinaldehyde is one of the major members of the retinoid family, which has potential skin rejuvenating effects on photoaged skin and has a good safety profile.

AIMS

The study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of multilamellar vesicle containing retinaldehyde (MLV-RAL) 0.05% and 0.1% used to treat photoaged skin.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

A randomized, prospective, investigator-blinded, split-face comparison study was conducted. We enrolled 23 Korean volunteers who applied MLV-RAL 0.05%/0.1% cream on one randomized side of their face and retinol 0.05%/0.1% cream on the opposite side. Wrinkle depth on both crow's feet was assessed by the Antera 3D system. Skin hydration, elasticity, facial curved length, and dermal density were also evaluated.

RESULTS

After an 8-week application, all objective parameters, including wrinkle depth, were significantly improved in both MLV-RAL 0.05%/0.1% and retinol 0.05%/0.1% treated sides. Compared with the retinol-treated side, MLV-RAL-treated side showed a significant improvement of objective assessments except for dermal density. Additionally, there was no adverse event associated with the use of either MLV-RAL 0.05%/0.1% or retinol 0.05%/0.1% cream.

CONCLUSION

The application of MLV-RAL 0.05%/0.1% cream improved wrinkle, facial contour, and biophysical parameters associated with skin aging.

Induction of Hyalurosome by Topical Hyaluronate Fragments Results in Superficial Filling of the Skin Complementary to Hyaluronate Filler Injections

Hyaluronate (HA) plays a major role in the process of skin aging. The main use of HA has been for hydration and dermal fillers. Another approach, based on the discovery of the signaling effects of topically applied hyaluronate fragments (HAF), has subsequently been developed. It has been thoroughly demonstrated that topical applications of HAF of a very specific size induce HA filling of the epidermis and the upper dermis. These effects are particularly visible in dermatoporotic patients. Moreover, the combination of HA-based filler injections with topical applications of HAFs/retinoids showed an optimization of the effects of HA. Thus, a new classification of the different effects of HA is proposed here.

Cactus cladodes (Opuntia humifusa) extract minimizes the effects of UV irradiation on keratinocytes and hairless mice

CONTEXT

Cactus cladodes [Opuntia humifusa (Raf.) Raf. (Cactaceae)] is one of the cactus genera, which has long been used as a folk medicine for skin disorders.

OBJECTIVE

This study investigated the skincare potential of cactus cladodes extract (OHE), including its ability to regulate ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced hyaluronic acid (HA) production.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Gene expression levels of hyaluronic acid synthases (HASs) and hyaluronidase (HYAL) were measured in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells with OHE treatment (10, 25, 50, 100 μg/mL) by real-time polymerase chain reaction (PCR). The HA content was analyzed in hairless mice (SKH-1, male, 6 weeks old) treated with OHE for 10 weeks by using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Haematoxylin and eosin (H&E) and immunohistological staining were performed to examine epidermal thickness and levels of CD44 and hyaluronic acid-binding protein (HABP).

RESULTS

HA synthases (HAS,1 HAS2, HAS3) mRNA levels were increased by 1.9-, 2.2- and 1.6-fold, respectively, with OHE treatment (100 μg/mL), while UVB-induced increase of hyaluronidase mRNA significantly decreased by 35%. HA content in animal was decreased from 42.9 to 27.1 ng/mL by OHE treatment. HAS mRNA levels were decreased by 39%, but HYAL mRNA was increased by 50% in OHE group. CD44 and HABP levels, which were greatly increased by UVB-irradiation, were reduced by 64 and 60%, respectively. Epidermal thickness, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and erythema formation was also decreased by 45 (45.7 to 24.2 μm), 48 (48.8 to 25 g/h/m²) and 33%, respectively.

CONCLUSION

OHE protects skin from UVB-induced skin degeneration in HaCaT cells and hairless mice.

Cigarette smoke condensate affects the retinoid pathway in human amnion

INTRODUCTION

The preterm premature rupture of membranes (PPROM) is a frequent pathology responsible of more than 30% of preterm births. Tobacco smoking is one of the most frequently described risk factors identified and contributes to the pre term weakening of fetal membranes. As previously demonstrated, all-trans retinoic acid (atRA) regulates several genes involved in the extracellular matrix dynamics, an essential actor in fetal membrane ruptures. We hypothesized that cigarette smoke may affect this pathway in human amnion.

METHODS

Amnion was obtained from full-term fetal membranes collected from non-smoking women after cesarean births and used either as explants or for the isolation of derived epithelial cells. The pro-healing and transcriptomic effects of atRA were studied by a scratch assay experiment and quantitative RT-PCR, respectively, after treatment with dimethyl sulfoxyde (DMSO), atRA, DMSO + cigarette smoke condensate (CSC), or atRA + CSC.

RESULTS

Our results show a strong alteration of the retinoid pathway after CSC treatment on amnion-derived epithelial cells and explants. We first demonstrated that CSC inhibits the activity of the RARE reporter gene in amnion-derived epithelial cells. Then, atRA's effects on both the transcription of its target genes and wound healing were demonstrated to be inhibited or at least decreased by the CSC in human amnion epithelial cells.

DISCUSSION

Here, we demonstrated that CSC altered the retinoid signal, already known to have roles in fetal membrane physiopathology. These results highlight a potential negative action of maternal smoking on the retinoid pathway in human amnion and more generally on pregnancy.

Evidence-based (S3) Guideline on (anogenital) Lichen sclerosus

Lichen sclerosus (LS) is an inflammatory skin disease that usually involves the anogenital area. All patients with symptoms or signs suspicious of lichen sclerosus should be seen at least once initially by a physician with a special interest in the disease in order to avoid delay in diagnosis, as early treatment may cure the disease in some and reduce or prevent scarring. The diagnosis is made clinically in most cases. Biopsies should only be performed under certain circumstances. The gold standard for treatment remains potent to very potent topical steroids; however, mild and moderate disease in boys and men may be cured by circumcision. Certain triggers should be avoided. http://www.euroderm.org/images/stories/guidelines/2014/S3-Guideline-on-Lichen-sclerosus.pdf http://www.awmf.org/fachgesellschaften/mitgliedsgesellschaften/visitenkarte/fg/deutsche-gesellschaft-fuer-gynaekologie-und-geburtshilfe-dggg.html.

Hyaluronan metabolism in human keratinocytes and atopic dermatitis skin is driven by a balance of hyaluronan synthases 1 and 3

Hyaluronan (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan synthesized directly into the extracellular matrix by three hyaluronan synthases (HAS1, HAS2, and HAS3). HA is abundantly synthesized by keratinocytes but its epidermal functions remain unclear. We used culture models to grow human keratinocytes as autocrine monolayers or as reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) to assess HA synthesis and HAS expression levels during the course of keratinocyte differentiation. In both the models, epidermal differentiation downregulates HAS3 mRNA expression while increasing HAS1 without significant changes in hyaluronidase expression. HA production correlates with HAS1 mRNA expression level during normal differentiation. To investigate the regulation of HAS gene expression during inflammatory conditions linked to perturbed differentiation, lesional and non-lesional skin biopsies of atopic dermatitis (AD) patients were analyzed. HAS3 mRNA expression level increases in AD lesions compared with healthy and non-lesional skin. Simultaneously, HAS1 expression decreases. Heparin-binding EGF-like growth factor (HB-EGF) is upregulated in AD epidermis. An AD-like HAS expression pattern is observed in RHE incubated with HB-EGF. These results indicate that HAS1 is the main enzyme responsible for HA production by normal keratinocytes and thus, must be considered as an actor of normal keratinocyte differentiation. In contrast, HAS3 can be induced by HB-EGF and seems mainly involved in AD epidermis.

New therapeutic targets in dermatoporosis

Dermatoporosis is a novel term proposed to describe the chronic cutaneous insufficiency/fragility syndrome characterized by an extreme skin atrophy. Dermatoporosis is principally due to chronological aging and long-term and unprotected sun exposure, but it may also result from the chronic use of topical and systemic corticosteroids. We have recently proposed a membrane organelle, hyalurosome, composed of molecules involved in hyaluronate (HA) metabolism and cell signaling in the keratinocytes, such as principal HA receptor CD44, heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF), HB-EGF receptor erbB1 and HA synthase 3 (HAS3), which is functionally defective in dermatoporosis and may be a target for intervention. Several lines of evidence suggest that hyalurosome is located in keratinocyte filopodia, thin, actin-rich plasma membrane protrusions implicated in cell motility. We have recently shown that keratinocyte filopodia are downregulated by corticosteroids in vitro. Intermediate size HA fragments (HAFi) inhibited the downregulation of filopodia induced by corticosteroids. Topical HAFi prevented the skin atrophy induced by topical corticosteroids in mice without interfering with their anti-inflammatory effect. Topical treatment with HAFi 1% of atrophic forearm skin of dermatoporosis patients for 1 month resulted in a significant clinical improvement and induced the expression of hyalurosome molecules. Topical retinaldehyde (RAL) and HAFi showed a synergy in HA production and pro-HB-EGF expression in mouse skin and in the correction of skin atrophy in dermatoporosis patients. Uncovering the molecular mechanisms implicating hyalurosome seems to be crucial to better understand the pathogenesis of dermatoporosis and to develop new therapeutic strategies.

Retinaldehyde/hyaluronic acid fragments: a synergistic association for the management of skin aging

BACKGROUND

Retinaldehyde (RAL) was proven effective in treating photodamaged skin. Topical treatments with specific intermediate-size hyaluronate fragments (HAFi, 50-400 kDa) have been shown to stimulate keratinocytes proliferation and epidermal hyperplasia. The aim of this open, multicentric, international study was to assess the efficacy of the combination RAL-HAFi in the correction of skin photoaging.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Either RAL 0.05%-HAFi 0.5% (Eluage® cream; group 1) or RAL 0.05%-HAFi 1% (Eluage® antiwrinkle concentrate; group 2) or both products (group 3) were applied daily to the 1462 subjects during 90 days. Overall photoaging severity was evaluated in the three groups by the dermatologists at D0, D30, and D90 based on the Larnier's scale. Wrinkles and/or furrows and clinical signs of aging were evaluated using a 4-point scale. The skin microrelief of the crow's feet, evaluated by optical profilometry, was performed in subjects from group 3.

RESULTS

The 3-month application significantly improved overall photoaging through decrease of the Larnier's score in the three groups (P<0.001). At D90, significant improvement of wrinkles was shown in groups 2 and 3 [forehead wrinkles (-19% and -10%, respectively, P<0.001), nasolabial folds (-20% and -16%, P<0.001), crow's feet (-27% in the two groups, P<0.001), and perioral wrinkles (-34% and -23%, P<0.001)]. Clinical signs of photoaging on the entire face improved significantly in groups 1 and 3 [elasticity (-32% and -33%, respectively, P<0.001), hyperpigmentation (-34% and -31%, P<0.001), and ptosis (-18% and -22%; P<0.001)]. Results were confirmed using an optical profilometry technique. Products were very well tolerated.

CONCLUSION

This clinical study showed the efficacy and value of the RAL-HAFi combination in the management of aging skin in a large cohort of patients.

Synergistic effect of hyaluronate fragments in retinaldehyde-induced skin hyperplasia which is a Cd44-dependent phenomenon

BACKGROUND

CD44 is a polymorphic proteoglycan and functions as the principal cell-surface receptor for hyaluronate (HA). Heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF) activation of keratinocyte erbB receptors has been proposed to mediate retinoid-induced epidermal hyperplasia. We have recently shown that intermediate size HA fragments (HAFi) reverse skin atrophy by a CD44-dependent mechanism.

METHODOLOGY AND PRINCIPAL FINDINGS

Treatment of primary mouse keratinocyte cultures with retinaldehyde (RAL) resulted in the most significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation when compared with other retinoids, retinoic acid, retinol or retinoyl palmitate. RAL and HAFi showed a more significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation than RAL or HAFi alone. No proliferation with RAL was observed in CD44-/- keratinocytes. HA synthesis inhibitor, 4-methylumbelliferone inhibited the proliferative effect of RAL. HB-EGF, erbB1, and tissue inhibitor of MMP-3 blocking antibodies abrogated the RAL- or RAL- and HAFi-induced keratinocyte proliferation. Topical application of RAL or RAL and HAFi for 3 days caused a significant epidermal hyperplasia in the back skin of wild-type mice but not in CD44-/- mice. Topical RAL and HAFi increased epidermal CD44 expression, and the epidermal and dermal HA. RAL induced the expression of active HB-EGF and erbB1. However, treatment with RAL and HAFi showed a more significant increase in pro-HB-EGF when compared to RAL or HAFi treatments alone. We then topically applied RAL and HAFi twice a day to the forearm skin of elderly dermatoporosis patients. After 1 month of treatment, we observed a significant clinical improvement.

CONCLUSIONS AND SIGNIFICANCE

Our results indicate that (i) RAL-induced in vitro and in vivo keratinocyte proliferation is a CD44-dependent phenomenon and requires the presence of HA, HB-EGF, erbB1 and MMPs, (ii) RAL and HAFi show a synergy in vitro and in vivo in mouse skin, and (iii) the combination of RAL and HAFi seems to have an important therapeutic effect in dermatoporosis.

Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin A alcohol): a vehicle-controlled, double-blind study

Topical tretinoin formulation is still unavailable in Japan. Because topical retinol, which is less potent but may cause less irritation, is available here, we have performed a randomized, blinded, vehicle-controlled study on the face using a once-nightly regimen for the treatment of mild photoaging in middle-aged Japanese females. First, a 26-week study was conducted in 57 subjects with a 0.075% retinol cream and its vehicle on each half side of the face. Three of the 57 subjects withdrew from the study due to irritation, although this rate was much smaller than that noted in our previous study with topical tretinoin. After 26 weeks, the rates of photoaging improvement were significantly higher on the retinol side: 27 out of 54 (50%) versus 13 (24%) for the fine wrinkling and 15 out of 54 (28%) versus 1 (2%) for deep wrinkling. A similar trial with a 0.04% retinol cream for 13 weeks revealed less prominent improvements in fine wrinkling but minimal irritation. From these data, we think that retinol creams, especially 0.04% cream, are suitable for daily use in the general population because of the low irritancy, even for those with sensitive skin.

Proposed mechanisms of action for retinoid derivatives in the treatment of skin aging

Skin aging (intrinsic aging) and photoaging (extrinsic aging) involve a similar process that leads to the typical creased appearance of the skin, with the progressive loss of its physical and biologic properties. Photoaging is a premature skin aging caused by long-term exposure to the ultraviolet B radiations of the sun, and is more frequently associated to skin cancer than intrinsic aging. Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and penetrate the epidermis easily. Their biologically active forms can modulate gene expression by binding to nuclear receptors and then to specific DNA sequences. Because of their ability to modulate genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation, they appear as good candidates to treat and prevent photoaging. Hyaluronate and collagen, two major constituents of the dermis, are progressively decreased and altered during aging. Various retinoids were shown to increase their synthesis and concentration in the skin and reduce their rate of degradation. Furthermore, retinoids share a common chemical structure containing several conjugated double bonds that enable them to trap free radicals and absorb UV radiations from the sun, thereby protecting cellular targets such as DNA, lipid membranes, or proteins by preventing direct photochemical damage or UV-induced oxidative stress. Therefore, retinoids may be beneficial in treating skin aging and photoaging because of their biologic, chemical, and physical properties, which act at several levels.

Dermatoporosis: A Chronic Cutaneous Insufficiency/Fragility Syndrome

BACKGROUND

Skin aging has long been considered only as a cosmetic problem. With the increase in lifespan, we are now more often experiencing a further dimension of skin aging, which is no longer only cosmetic, but also functional, in the sense that the skin has lost its protective mechanical function. Dermatoporosis is the name proposed to capture, in a holistic approach, all the aspects of this chronic cutaneous insufficiency/fragility syndrome.

OBSERVATIONS

In this paper, we review the clinical aspects of dermatoporosis, its histological features and the current understanding of its etiological factors. The clinical manifestations of dermatoporosis comprise (i) morphological markers of fragility--rather trivial--such as senile purpura, stellate pseudoscars and skin atrophy, and (ii) functional expression of skin fragility resulting from minor traumas such as frequent skin laceration, delayed wound healing, nonhealing atrophic ulcers and subcutaneous bleeding with the formation of dissecting hematomas leading to large zones of necrosis. Dissecting hematomas bear significant morbidity needing hospitalization and urgent surgical procedures. Molecular mechanisms implying hyaluronate-CD44 pathways in the control and maintenance of epithelial growth and the viscoelastic properties of the extracellular matrix offer new opportunities for preventive intervention.

CONCLUSION

We propose to group the different manifestations and implications of this syndrome under the umbrella term of 'dermatoporosis', because we think it will help to capture the understanding of health professionals that, as osteoporosis, 'dermatoporosis' should be prevented and treated to avoid complications. Dermatologists should be aware of this emerging syndrome and function as key players in prevention and therapy. Randomized clinical trials should demonstrate which intervention may best prevent and/or reverse dermatoporosis.

UVA and UVB decrease the expression of CD44 and hyaluronate in mouse epidermis, which is counteracted by topical retinoids

The transmembrane glycoprotein CD44 is currently thought to be the main cell surface receptor for the glycosaminoglycan hyaluronate. We previously showed that (1) CD44 regulate keratinocyte proliferation; (2) topical retinoids dramatically increase the expression of CD44, hyaluronate and hyaluronate synthase (HAS)s in mouse epidermis; (3) topical retinaldehyde restores the epidermal thickness and CD44 expression which are correlated with clinical improvement in lichen sclerosus et atrophicus lesions; and (4) retinaldehyde-induced proliferative response of keratinocytes is a CD44-dependent phenomenon and requires the presence of HB-EGF, erbB1 and matrix metalloproteinases. In this study, we analyzed the effect of UV irradiation on the levels of epidermal hyaluronate and CD44 in mice, as well as its potential prevention by topical retinoids. UVA (10 J/cm(2)) or UVB (1 J/cm(2)) irradiation significantly decreased the expression of CD44 and hyaluronate in the epidermis of hairless mice after 2 h. Expression of both epidermal CD44 and hyaluronate was reconstituted within 24 h. Topical application of retinaldehyde for 3 days prior to UVA or UVB irradiation prevented the decrease of CD44 and hyaluronate expression. Topical retinol and retinoic acid also increased the basal levels of epidermal CD44 and hyaluronate, although their preventive effect on UV-induced decrease of these molecules was less pronounced as compared to topical retinaldehyde. These data confirm the relationships between retinoid and CD44 pathways, although the primary target(s) of UV leading to CD44 and hyaluronate degradation remain to be elucidated.

Hyaluronate fragments reverse skin atrophy by a CD44-dependent mechanism

BACKGROUND

Skin atrophy is a common manifestation of aging and is frequently accompanied by ulceration and delayed wound healing. With an increasingly aging patient population, management of skin atrophy is becoming a major challenge in the clinic, particularly in light of the fact that there are no effective therapeutic options at present.

METHODS AND FINDINGS

Atrophic skin displays a decreased hyaluronate (HA) content and expression of the major cell-surface hyaluronate receptor, CD44. In an effort to develop a therapeutic strategy for skin atrophy, we addressed the effect of topical administration of defined-size HA fragments (HAF) on skin trophicity. Treatment of primary keratinocyte cultures with intermediate-size HAF (HAFi; 50,000-400,000 Da) but not with small-size HAF (HAFs; <50,000 Da) or large-size HAF (HAFl; >400,000 Da) induced wild-type (wt) but not CD44-deficient (CD44-/-) keratinocyte proliferation. Topical application of HAFi caused marked epidermal hyperplasia in wt but not in CD44-/- mice, and significant skin thickening in patients with age- or corticosteroid-related skin atrophy. The effect of HAFi on keratinocyte proliferation was abrogated by antibodies against heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF) and its receptor, erbB1, which form a complex with a particular isoform of CD44 (CD44v3), and by tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase-3 (TIMP-3).

CONCLUSIONS

Our observations provide a novel CD44-dependent mechanism for HA oligosaccharide-induced keratinocyte proliferation and suggest that topical HAFi application may provide an attractive therapeutic option in human skin atrophy.

Retinoids in cosmeceuticals

Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and easily penetrate the epidermis. Their biologically active forms can modulate the expression of genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation. Retinoic acid (tretinoin), its 13-cis isomer isotretinoin, as well as various synthetic retinoids are used for therapeutic purposes, whereas retinaldehyde, retinol, and retinyl esters, because of their controlled conversion to retinoic acid or their direct receptor-independent biologic action, can be used as cosmeceuticals. These natural retinoic acid precursors are thus expected to be helpful in (i) renewing epidermal cells, (ii) acting as UV filters, (iii) preventing oxidative stress, (iv) controlling cutaneous bacterial flora, and (v) improving skin aging and photoaging. Retinol and retinyl esters are not irritant, whereas demonstrating only a modest clinical efficiency. On the other hand, retinaldehyde, which is fairly well tolerated, seems to be the most efficient cosmeceutical retinoid; it has significant efficiency toward oxidative stress, cutaneous bacterial flora, epidermis renewing, and photoaging.